Perfume Reviews

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Total Reviews: 128295

Patou pour Homme (original) by Jean Patou

Thanks to a long time BNr, I'm fortunate to have a decant of special PPH. I sense clary sage / oakmoss with cinnamon / patchouli / amber blended to what any self-respecting gent would or should want to smell of. I swear one of my kid's pediatricians used to smell of PPH way back when, like a million bucks in a crisp clean labcoat and worthy of the memory space, evidently.

An end-all-be-all? Perhaps for some... BUT, along with a few others like Bel Ami, Derby, Jules, Arrogance Uomo, Monogram, Or Black, Blend 30 and so on from yesteryear, definitely deserving the mention.
30th June, 2016

Steampunk (Viola) by Erik Kormann

Having purchased this mimosa/woods composition, I think the average amateur perfumer could probably make something similar. A combination of cassione (Firmenich) and Timberol (Symrise) would possibly do the trick though I won't test that hypothesis as neither of these are among my favourite materials. Nevertheless I'm happy to have Steampunk in my collection, as a strong supporter of independent creations.
30th June, 2016

31 rue Cambon by Chanel

31 rue Cambon is one of my favorites among the Exclusifs line. I love its spicy warmth and gracious elegance. Longevity for me is good by Les Exclusif standards (about 6 hours), during which time it never loses its character or backbone; even when it becomes a skin scent, 31 rue Cambon's character remains intact. If it came in extrait concentration, I'd swoon.
30th June, 2016
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28 La Pausa by Chanel

This is an elegant but approachable iris, simultaneously cool and welcoming in its self-assurance. It's almost a soliflore, but I pick up other garden scents carried in its sillage. 28 La Pausa is one of the most natural and open-hearted irises I've smelled. I don't detect any undesirable, inauthentic or misplaced notes here. It's delicate, and its brief longevity is somewhat disappointing - but oh, what a beauty while it lasts (3-4 hours on my skin).
30th June, 2016

Seduction in Black by Antonio Banderas

Seduction in Black is for a while crisp, bitter-sweet and mastered by this accord of dark fruits/bergamot (providing bitterness, darkness and angularity), blackcurrant (notable) and synth musky-amber. I detect cedary woodiness and surely cardamom which imprints a freshly musky, fluidy and piquant modern twist. There is a vague Armani Code-Gucci Guilty Homme-Polo Black-Police Dark Men-Montblanc Emblem's sort of vibe (each of them jumping vaguely on mind for a bunch of diverse nuances) but this Bandera's juice unfolds an its own peculiar individuality. The final amber is spicy, kind of bitter-almondy and woody-musky. Cardamom and crisp-angular patterns provide bold freshness, blackberries provide bitter-fruity darkness while nutmeg, ambroxan, blackcurrant and musk enhance a denser enigmatic vibe. This juice is a synth freshly seductive scent with a final twist of warm ambery mystery (and a sort of soapy-herbal "sporty" undertone). Best for night time casual use.
30th June, 2016 (last edited: 29th June, 2016)

Acqua di Giò Profumo by Giorgio Armani

A neutral rating mostly reflecting some considerable disappointment about what might have been. I think it was wise to bring a counterpoint to the well-worn AdG formula, yet I can appreciate that it was not an easy task to accomplish. A more earthbound counterpoint note would not work, but frankincense done right adds a dark element that nonetheless remains on AdG’s ethereal plane -- an inspired choice by Morillas. On a test strip, the added counterpoint is the most subtle of grace notes with little impact. Fortunately, as others have noted, the incense is a bit more substantial on skin after drydown, but even then it is manifested with more of an added sense dryness rather than with any material projection of the incense note. The bottom line is that Profumo represents the confection of the basic AdG DNA (relentlessly overexposed as that may be) with likely upgraded ingredients or concentration levels and with a slight incense twist. To the rest of the world you will smell like AdG, but you personally can be mindful of the difference. I can’t help but think that Morillas just didn’t push the envelope enough -- that the inspired idea was not executed to its natural outcome. For a concept that could have yielded a fragrance with a rakish personal charm, AdGP instead sticks too much to the puppy-dog friendly approach of its predecessor. I suspect that this restraint reflects a major gesture of propitiation to teeming millions of consumers who buy the basic AdG by the barrelful and don’t really want something distinctly different. That is disappointing but not surprising.
29th June, 2016

Annees Folles by La Parfumerie Moderne

was very eager to try this new creation by La Parfumerie Moderne, which is nearly the only new French niche act (of, say, the last 2-3 years) I personally consider worthy consideration and praise. And I surely appreciate the fact it took nearly two years for them to come up with a single new offering – in a time when niche brands launch a whole line once, sometimes even twice a year, that’s a true mirage. And well... once I sampled this, my expectations were decidedly exceeded. You can skip my boring detailed review and just trust me: Années Folles is absolutely great, probably the best offering by this brand, and in my opinion, one of the best works by Corticchiato. Années Folles surprised me for several reasons in fact, the first of which in chronological order being its breathtakingly rich opening. The fragrance starts with a truly sumptuous, yet actually rather simple structure of lavender (bold, deep, balsamic and “skanky” double-distilled lavender absolue) blended in a dusty-herbal frame of Mediterranean herbs and spices (thyme, nutmeg) and paired with a very clever and delightfully harmonic core of geranium and vetiver, which is quite subtle at first, but the drydown will do it justice. A veritable triumph of lavender (I think this was missing in Corticchiato’s portfolio?) and woody herbs supported by a gentle cascade of dusty resinous notes of tonka, patchouli and myrrh, vith a vague aftertaste of dry vanilla.

So basically Années Folles opens as a creative, remarkably well-executed mix of a breezy Mediterranean green-woody cologne, a formal, dusty old-school French “barbershop” lavender-based fougère, and a tangy, warm Oriental spicy-ambery-resinous blend. Floral, herbal and resinous, melting together a classic French inspiration (powdery, soapy, at the same time kind of dirty traditional fougère notes) with a whiff of Mediterranean rawness following Corticchiato’s fondness for herbs and green notes, brilliantly warmed by a touch of Oriental aromatic and dusty spiciness (blending with the French part to echo a sort of “Guerlinade”). All in the most genuine quality, almost an “artisanal” quality of materials, but with a rather mannered appearance – a sort of sophisticated, distinguished, kind of melancholic look in which the “rawness” and the depth of lavender and of the Mediterranean and Oriental inspirations are elegantly tamed down, as if the center and the perspective of the fragrance still remain rooted in a certain French sense of discreet, slightly decadent “chic”. Mediterranean and Parisian at once, so to speak, all filtered in faded, dusty sepia tones.

The evolution brilliantly unravels the vetiver heart, with a transition towards a powdery and smoky drydown tinged with masculine nuances of geranium and darker spices, and still a sharp hint of thyme. Some of the initial lavender-herbal “raw” greenness slowly fades away, bringing in a warmer, sort of talc-like and slightly sweet feel, reaching a (rather close to skin – maybe a tad too much for many) final drydown based on a very simple, delightfully cozy whiff of spicy-floral vetiver dusted with fine talc. Lavender remains as a “fil rouge” throughout the scent, with a shimmering transition from a bolder initial phase, to an ethereal, discreet powdery-soapy presence on the drydown.

So, to cut it short, Années Folles smells fairly “old school” on one side (a French digest ranging from Guerlain’s Mouchoir de Monsieur to Pierre Cardin pour Monsieur), and very modern on the other – the “modern” factor being an extremely fascinating weightless texture, which smells as much rich as crisp and somehow very breezy and almost thin, with a dark shade, or better say a “mist” feel. French, Mediterranean and Oriental inspirations are very effortlessly blended together in a sophisticated, natural, discreet blend with a very neat composition and a fantastic refined presence on skin. For some reasons this fragrance smells quite different from any other work by Corticchiato, both for the materials used (there’s a more massive natural feel here for me) and for the way its is composed and how it behaves on skin. I think this it is at once the most “old school” scent by him (except maybe for Musc Tonkin) and the most creative one, and it seems he really tried to use at best the natural behaviour of the materials with no “synthetic help” and no formal patterns – rather combining some of them. I really enjoy this fragrance, as it smells rich and fulfilling yet very approachable and actually simple to enjoy, extremely sophisticated but very cozy and versatile. As regards of the projection, Années Folles won’t be a bold “compliment getter” bomb as it soon sits rather close to skin, but that’s how many elegant and quality scents perform. Support the last good niche we have, don’t miss this!

29th June, 2016
Dr. Z. Show all reviews
United States

Luna Rossa Extreme by Prada


Right after I spray on Prada Luna Rossa EXTREME on my skin...several things come to mind.

As noted by others:
A spicy cinnamon mixed with some amber and vanilla.
The lavender is short lived and to my nose, only slightly detectable.
It may also have some juniper berries and some bergamot but I came to this review realizing absolutely none of those (last two) notes. It's not a "bomb"... Quite light actually.
Something "powdery" hits me as well. Crazy??

So... As I said.. several things come to mind shortly after I spray this on my skin...

Yes indeed....Several things....

Ummm, unfortunately-----NONE ARE EXTREME!

Especially for a bottle with the word "EXTREME" on it...

The projection .....mild (for me)

The longevity...mediocre (4-5 hours...after's skin a scent...(for me)

Now the scent itself is a different story.
It's not bad... quite pleasant actually.

Linear ( almost)

But IMO it's not an adequate performer-again, especially for an EXTREME.

Furthermore, the DNA here is not much different than several other fragrances I own.
Most of which use slightly better materials and are, as a general rule, better (much) performers.

The most notable (of these other frags) to me is YSL Opium Pour Homme.
Edt version. I'm sure most here are no stranger to this one.

Now...before you measure my neck for the noose... I'm not saying they smell exactly the same. Close enough for my nose though that I'm never going to do this:

"Boy... I just can't decide whether I should wear the Prada or the Opium today..."

"Man ... This is a tough one!" ect...

Similar DNA... Same "vibe"... Not a twin.

Now, is having both redundant? You'll have to decide that.
To me... Yes...and it's YSL NQA (you'll figure it out).

To my nose-the scent is 85%-90% similar Maybe more or less, depending on what color shoe laces I'm wearing. Kidding.

It's not as cheap (opium) as you must chose a discontinued frag over one that's quite easily found. Even on line @ discounted prices.

On the other hand, I've paid $29.90 for a one oz bottle of Opium that was stunning!

Remember, I like this Prada.
I own it don't I?
I'm just not convinced that I would ever wear it because it's too similar to the YSL (yes the Prada was a blind buy.. Had I known...)

But if your looking for this "type" fragrance BUT, with "twin-turbo" performance, and you DON'T have the Prada...YSL Opium EDT is at least a must try.

If you don't have either...Get a sample of both. Try them... See for yourself.

So you have the Prada (meaning you are ok with a "naturally aspirated" frag)
and you could care less about YSL's Opium Pour Homme...may I suggest taking an atomizer with you, if you are looking for 6-8/9 hours of longevity.
Why? (see above).
Also with the Prada you MAY save a few bucks but it's weaker so...... You got it.

Just remember- if you sampled them both and you chose the YSL, you'll need an oil change every 3,000 mi. (It's this special seal in the turbo that....... Never mind. ;)


Oh yeah...

NQA= no questions asked

29th June, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

D by Laura Tonatto

A very friendly, gentle and warm floral composition.

Opening with a mm orange blossom and magnolia, there is a nice rise added in the drydown that is if the lighter ad brighter variety; this rise is neither very dark nor very rich.

Later a jasmine of convincing quality leads into the basenote phase. Whiffs of neroli cone and go adding additional sparked of gentle freshness, and counterbalance the restrained floral sweetness that permeates the background of this composition.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

A very nice spring scent maids of ingredients of high quality. 3.25/5.
29th June, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Éclats Précieux by Givenchy

The sweetish opening notes combine a brioche-like rhubarb with an orangey flavour. In the drydown a somewhat bland rose impression mixes with generic white floral notes.

The base adds a synthetic vanilla and keeps up the sweetness, which is actually quite balanced and on my skin never overly intrusive or overwhelming.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and six hours of longevity.

A fairly pleasant spring creation on he fruity-sweet side that never reaches higher than average. 2.75/5.
29th June, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Gentlemen Only Casual Chic by Givenchy

The cardamom and ginger are evident in the opening blast. Both are not overwhelmingly strong but well balanced. The ginger is quite synthetic and less in the foreground that, for instance, in Creed's Tabarôme Millesimé.

The drydown presents a woodsy side that is rather generic on my skin. In the base a predictable and unexciting ambroxan dominates.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

This unexciting flanker, pleasant in autumn or spring, is just that - pleasant in a synthetic-generic way. 2.5/5
29th June, 2016

Boszporusz by Nishane

Identical fragrance to the masterpiece of Kenzo pour homme

Thumbs up!
29th June, 2016

Vaniglia e Mirra by Bottega Verde

Vanilla and tuberose are heady, you can get it by soon; vanilla is resinous and rich while vetiver provides an initial tad of fresh angularity (supported in it by crisp floral patterns and a twist of citrus). Along the way Bottega Verde Vaniglia e Mirra turns out drier and spicier (unisex but finally more oriented on the feminine side of spectrum imo). Sweetish but never over the levels of tolerance. Patchouli darkens finally the resinous amalgam (opoponax provides as well a sort of simil incensey vaguely smoky undertone). A solution for the lovers of this kind of unpretentious synth candied-yummy aromatic scents with hints of glamour-chic. Good longevity on my skin.
29th June, 2016
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Loewe para Hombre by Loewe

Masculine herbal citrus on a bed of confident optimism. I don't know of a better office scent.

The older the better; yellow juice is outstanding and the green stuff is still pretty good.

It doesn't remind me of anything.
28th June, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Muschio Bianco / White Moss by Acca Kappa

The opening notes set the character of the whole experience: fresh, clean and bright: opening with bergamot and lemon, combined with a somewhat weaker juniper berry component. Whilst the citrus is nicely done, the juniper cannot be compared with the beauty in, for instance Creed's Baie de Genièvre.

The drydown is rather aldehydic, and in the base white musky emanates together with a gentle white musk on a woodsy background.

This is indeed a clean and elegant spring scent, that lacks any of the green-ness that characterises, for instance, Tom Ford's Moss Breches. It is clean elegance and restrained and subdued laundry-freshness it reminds me of Lanvin's Vetyver Blanc, although the latter is quite different in other aspects, and in Muschio Bianco I don't get the vetiver.

On my skin the sillage is soft, the projection a adequate and the longevity five hours.

Clean, fresh and restrained elegance: 3.25/5.
28th June, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Gentlemen Only Parisian Break by Givenchy

Givenchy Gentlemen Parisian Break starts with lemon and a minty note; a traditional dyad in summer scents. There is a green undertone that gradually grows stronger in the drydown, assuming an increasing herbal character of fresh sage. The base adds an ambroxan component that is fairly generic and unimpressive on my skin.

The sillage is moderate, he projection adequate and the longevity five hours on my skin.

A fresh product that at times suffers from a generic and overly synthetic character of the ingredients without making up for it by creativity. Still, quite a nice scent for hot climes. 2.75/5.
28th June, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Armani Code Ice by Giorgio Armani

The opening blast is a rather refreshing lemon-ginger dyad, with the lemon clearly dominant on my skin. The drydown sports a reasonable geranium, lavender, whiffs of iris and is overall on the more discrete side.

The base is rather nondescript, a woodsy impression that is rather generic.

The sillage is moderate, the projection very good and the longevity six hours.

A summery scent with a nice opening and a disappointing base. Based on any part but the base it - just - scores in the positive realm, for, presuming it is meant to be refreshing in summer, it does its job. 3/5.
28th June, 2016

Dolcelisir by L'Erbolario

After my second day of wearing Dolcelisir I find it to be a great scent. To my nose I get more of a cola vibe which some call a cherry pipe tobacco smell... Either way it is a very pleasant way to start the scent. After the top fades I get lots of vanilla and amber mingled with a little cinnamon here and cocoa there. The other notes listed I don't get a significant wiff of but there is something in addition that I can't place that pops up.... I can't compare it to Hermessance Ambre Narguile due to never having put my nose on that juice, but I find Dolcelisir to be great. It does lean slightly more feminine to me than Meharees (which is awesome as well) but no less awesome for me and a total winner especially for $37 dollars US for 100 ml (I got lucky LOL!). Enjoy!
28th June, 2016

Electric Wood by Room 1015

Electric Wood is inspired by rock and roll, say its creators. It is electric guitars, night club atmosphere, cigarettes, mixed cocktails. If you stepped into the corner night club spot the morning after, this is what is left from the night befores activity, and it does smell as advertised. It's smooth warmth of ambroxan with dry cedar , strong pithiness of oak, smoke resin, clear balancing iris and slight prickly hypnotics from nutmeg. The prickly spice from nutmeg gives a sandalwood but reserved woody smooth feel to the cedar + oak woods and this is given a universal appealing quality by the ambroxan. It is a fine smelling fragrance that I think of as an atmosphere or a backdrop scent. The non commitment of the scent is part of its appeal but also what is at fault here too. No single note stands out but overall the effect is pleasant, warm, uplifting and does smell like electric guitar, bourbon and seven with an unlit cigarette. Rate it 7 of 10 stars. I have been eyeing a bottle for some time now, but don't know if it fits. A nice fragrance.
28th June, 2016

Myths Man by Amouage

I'm a big Amouage fan and own 8 different bottles.
This one is the biggest disappointment of their entire line.
I mostly got synthetic violet blended with a smoke like accord.
Just dreadful.
Love the bottle and was predisposed to liking it.
Sprayed Amouage Silver on top to be able to get on with my morning.
28th June, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Omnia Amethyste by Bulgari

It starts with a grapefruit-orange opening that has a slightly herb undertone that soon morphs into a floral drydown. I get heliotrope aromas with an iris undertone, and a rather generic rise-muguet impression later in the heart notes.

The base consists of a very generic woodsy notes with whiffs of a light synthetic muskiness.

The sillage is moderate, the projection adequate and the longevity five hours.

Not unpleasant as a spring scent but not more than that. 2.5/5.
28th June, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Acqua di Sicilia by Santa Maria Novella

The opening blast does its name justice: lemon, mandarin and a good lashing of bergamot are immediately present, and a touch later a nice petit grain comes to the fore.
Later in the drydown lavender and neroli continue the there of summery freshness.

In the base a somewhat faint cypress is added, following the traditional path of finishing a citrus-bars cologne a woodsy base.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and five hours of longevity, but it is very close to my skin for the last couple of hours.

A traditional summer citrus cologne, very well made out of high-quality ingredients. 3.5/5.
28th June, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Dark Rebel by John Varvatos

The opening blast immediately grabs my attention: a slightly boozy rum note is soon accompanied by a woodsy undertone, and a restrained black pepper that is clearly present but never takes over at any stage on my skin. This spiciness is excellently woven into the other notes in the opening and the early drydown, and in spite of the somewhat mundane components the result is quite unusual and not without originality.

Overall this results in an opening that has a creative touch - not a frequent occurrence unfortunately.

The base is not adding much, apart from a rather generic and synthetic tobacco impression. The base is the least enticing part in the development of this autumnal fragrance.

The sillage is strong, the projection very good and the longevity eight hours.

A bit on the synthetic side but overall worth trying. 3.25/5.
28th June, 2016

Memoir Man by Amouage

Grey, smoky, inky, incense.
Great Projection and long lasting.
Too dry though. Wish it had some more happy stuff in it.

28th June, 2016

Garrigue by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

Garrigue is to GIT as GIT is to Cool Water.
28th June, 2016

Iris Ganache by Guerlain

I received this rarity from a VERY generous friend in the form of a 5 ml decant. I spent a few days just sniffing it...trying to decide what I thought.

I was...underwhelmed. I sense I just uttered blasphemy in the world of fragrance, but I cannot be untrue to my nose.

I love the fragrance profile of Iris - the many facets of iris - cold, creamy, floral...but I could not detect any of that here. Instead, I smelled something like a really rich desert. I have nothing against desert (in fact, as I type this, the scent is convincing me to perhaps mix up some Ghirardelli brownie mix and eat it raw), but I draw the line at sweets with ambers and tonkas.

I have no doubt that for those chocolate scent lovers, this must TRULY be a heavenly scent, but I do wonder if they too experienced the mild silage and rather short-lived longevity as I did.

All in all, I am very grateful to have had opportunity to get my nose on this legend.
27th June, 2016 (last edited: 28th June, 2016)

Encre Noire Sport by Lalique

I struggle a bit with the concept of an Encre Noire "sport". The original is so inherently dark, gloomy and unwholesome that you wonder if this should have been attempted in the first place. If the original is a solemn vampiric creature haunting an autumnal moonlight churchyard, then this is The Count himself having been kicked out into the sunshine in a smart, clean new summer suit, and told to make friends with the nice people in the park....
It's a very pleasant, light vetiver, starting with citrus, and quickly developing a distinct "green" aquatic note (what is that? Cucumber? Melon ?). I love vetiver with a passion, and I will wear this gladly, I suppose in hot weather, to the office. There are more striking, in my humble opinion accomplished, vetivers that you can wear in the summer though: Tom Ford Grey Vetiver, Sel de Vetiver, of course Guerlain Vetiver, etc. I think someone else mentioned that this scent has a tendency to come and go during the day; I also experienced that.
It's good, pleasant, elegant, a nice daytime vetiver-based, light summer scent, but not it's cold, dark and dangerous older brother. It's not inky, it's not black or dark; I think Lalique should have called this one something else.
June 2016
27th June, 2016

Endymion by Penhaligon's

The fragrance is nice but a straight copy of a century old cream Boroline.
And Boroline's sillage and longevity is much better than Endymion. And costs 20 times less.
27th June, 2016

Very Sexy for Him 2 by Victoria's Secret

This is a weak and rather synthetic offering from Victoria Secret. With no projection nor longevity. Considering it is discontinued I am sure what is being sold online is at a much higher price than what the juice is worth. Unless you are looking of an "after the gym" scent to get you through the rest of the day I would avoid. Simply not worth it.
27th June, 2016

Captain Molyneux by Molyneux

Out of ignorance, I went for the edt/as tandem in the clear bottles that can be had for less than a sawbuck. I do believe THIS ruined it for me, regardless of iteration.

First off, I'll point to darvant's fine review with its specific mentioning of Captain's anisic character. It's pervasive. With the current version, that's all I get... cheap and synthetic smelling anisic water. Truly among the worst. I tossed those bottles.

But far too many enthusiasts hold the earlier versions in such high regard. So, when enough of the 1oz vintage bottles interestingly (peculiar-wise) began surfacing in the secondary market, I gave the vintage form a shot. No bueno. Sure, it's fuller, rounder, a little mossy, and just feels like it's a much better composition leading to a much easier idea of what many identify it to be: a barbershop aromatic fougere. Unfortunately, the anisic character is there and I just can't shake the association to the current iteration.

I'm ok with a little black licorice / anise, certainly with vanilla in things like Reglisse Noire for a gormandy lark and definitely in other masculine fougeres like Azzaro pH and Charles Jourdan un Homme. Perhaps it's simply the way it's used in Captain that puts me off. Sans the anise, Worth pH is preferable.
26th June, 2016