Perfume Reviews

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Total Reviews: 131682
Oviatt Show all reviews
United States

Ombré Leather 16 by Tom Ford

Where Tom Ford’s Tuscan Leather is a big, brash leather wanting to play in the same league as Knize Ten and Heely’s Cuir Pleine Fleur is a soft, bookish leather evoking Grey Flannel’s violet leaves, Ombre Leather 16 is right in the middle. In some ways a perfect leather scent, OL16 has no powder or fruit notes to get in the way although the leather note is interwoven with cardamom, jasmine and patchouli and –like the Heely scent, violet leaves—which support the core essence of fine leather. This is a very discreet, expensive-smelling leather that anyone who has ever sat in a chair at an exclusive boutique about to spend way too much on the beautiful shoes they are trying on will recognize. OL16 is a great way to carry that scent around with you all day—and night—long.
06th December, 2016

Paul Smith Extreme Men by Paul Smith

A nice blend of citrus and spice that quickly turns into a nice barbershop scent on my skin. Lasts in the 4 hour range with limited projection after 60 t0 90 minutes. The opening does smell rather zesty and as it drys the juice becomes enjoyable with wafts of geranium sandalwood and musk. For the price it is a nice weekend or casual scent or something for the office. Enjoy!
06th December, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Scent by Costume National

The amber is at the core of this creation, but is is unusual in that it is a light and pleasant amber; warm but quite restrained. On my skin it lacks any darkness, harshness or smokiness, and I do not get any incense either, unlike in many other amber-centric products.

In the drydown the floral side breaks through, with hibiscus, frangipani and whiffs of samphire on me. At times a very discrete jasmine is hovering in the background. All this is accompanied by an overarching veil of a tea impression; think slightly milky darjeeling that is mildly sweetened. Towards the end the floral basket moves into the foreground and peters out gradually.

I get soft sillage, adequate projection and eight hours of longevity.

Amongst the amber-dominated fragrances, this is one of the more unobtrusive one. Perfect for a warm and sunny autumn day, its restrained nature makes it a good choice if one wants to wear and amber scent to the office. Very pleasant; a bit lacking vibrancy and vividness at times. 3/5.
06th December, 2016
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Oud Luban by Aftelier

I like to think that when he died, Leonard Cohen was laid naked in a white shroud, anointed from head to toe in Ancient Resins, and then burned on a pyre that floats off down the Ganges. But recently, I learned that Cohen loved more than one of Mandy Aftel’s creations. In fact, Cohen wouldn't go out without a drop of her Oud Luban on his person.

Learning that made me reassess my imagining of Leonard Cohen as a gloomy, depressive poet, anointed with the biblical-smelling Ancient Resins. Because Oud Luban is an oud fragrance that takes what Luca Turin mentioned as an “inherent brown study grimness” characteristic of the material and shoots it through with a light-strobing blood orange note that makes it feel like liquid late-afternoon sunshine.

Superior, Hojari-grade frankincense from the Dhofar desert in Oman adds a bright, terpenic freshness that sidles up to the citrus and supports it – think crushed pine needles, with their juicy, lemony, green scent on your fingers after you touch them. And all this against a very smoky, leathery oud oil that is darkness personified. A superb, natural-smelling, joyful balancing of dark and light, Oud Luban displays a sort of switching-on-of-the-Christmas-lights effect.

I don’t think I have ever smelled a perfume that works oud quite like this. The smoky, growly undertones of real oud are there alright – no mistaking this for a synthetic variant – but its usual tendency to spread its gravel-voiced gloominess over everything has been reined in by the bright, citrusy resin elements. I think of it as humorous and hopeful.

And maybe this humorous, fey thing is a truer portrait of Leonard Cohen than my historic, mental imagining of his character. My dad recently told me a story he had read somewhere, of Leonard Cohen at a party. He just sat down on his own, picked up a guitar and started to strum, quietly humming the words to one of his famous songs. Bit by bit, women, young and old, began to kneel down at either side of him, listening intently. One of his friends whispered to him, Leonard, did you notice that you’re surrounded by women. Without looking up from his guitar and strumming away, he whispered back, “Works every time”.
05th December, 2016

Ancient Resins by Aftelier

Ancient Resins by Aftelier was developed by perfumer Mandy Aftel in cooperation with, and expressly for, the great Leonard Cohen himself. It smells exactly what you’d think a Zen guy like Leonard Cohen would like – a warm treble base of resins that balances the bitter, cleansing properties of something that might be used in a Shamanic ritual with the dusty smell of wood, paper, and rosin breaking down in old record stores or bookshops.

I’m not sure it makes much sense to analyze this beautiful oil too much – just let it wash over you in a peaceful wave, just like Cohen’s music – because it is, at heart, just a collection of resinous basenotes. And yet, the total effect is uplifting in a way that belies the simplicity of the blend.

Balm of Gilead is a note that jumps out at me, though, for its unusual biblical associations. Looking it up, it seems that the name refers (in religious history) to a balsam that was used as a spiritual balm to weary souls in Talmudic, Old Testament, and Muslim/Arabic history. Sources differ over what species of tree actually produced this balsam, although it seems to be either from mastic (green, herbal-smelling), pine, or terebinth /turpentine trees.

Although the opening notes of the oil are indeed very pine-like, I assume that this comes from the terpenes naturally present in the frankincense, because Mandy After clarifies that the Balm of Gilead note in Ancient Resins comes from poplar buds, from the Populus species of tree. These trees produce a nicely balmy scent on the white undersides of their leaves, and are used to produce the modern-day versions of the Balm of Gilead – basically, a wound- and spirit-healing balm.

And Ancient Resins is healing. It is healing and calming and restorative. I can see why Leonard Cohen reportedly wore this every day of his life. I was, coincidentally, wearing Ancient Resins in my hair when I heard that he had passed away. I had been using it almost every day since I received a generous sample of it, because the American elections had just taken place and I was feeling stressed out. Ancient Resins seems to have the power to right everywhere that is wrong in the world, just like Cohen’s music. A knitting together of things that have been fractured.
05th December, 2016

Armani Eau de Nuit Oud by Giorgio Armani

A peppery (huge cardamom), peppery, peppery inoffensive mainstream little fragrance (thankfully the synth oudh is not so gassy-cedary-saffrony but soapy-watery and mildly woody). Iris is dominant (in its main link with cardamomish tonka and mild woods), kind of liquid and vaguely dusty-sugary (delicately woody-mild). Not bad but "just not bad".
05th December, 2016

Soliflore Tuberose by Dame Perfumery

After my scarring experience with Gardenia, I was almost wincing the thought of having to try Tuberose, the last Dame Perfumery decant included in my swap with my American friend. Thankfully, Tuberose smells just like the tuberose used in Tubereuse Criminelle, which is to say, beautiful and slightly ugly and a bit weird (in a good way). It goes on smelling like spilled fuel, rubber, camphor, and Listerine – you know, tuberose. It’s just tuberose, doing its tuberose thang. You either like it or you don’t, but this is a good, straight-forward rendition for the purists out there that can’t hack the oddness of Tubereuse Criminelle, the smoky tobacco of Tubereuse 3 Animale, or the hallucinogenic green freshness of Carnal Flower. Me, I will stick to the more evolved stuff. I got bored of this quite quickly.
05th December, 2016

Soliflore Mimosa by Dame Perfumery

I lived in a country that held a mimosa festival every year, with parades and little girls wearing head garlands of mimosas threaded together – so I know what mimosa smells like.

Honestly, mimosa smells a bit odd at first. The perfume, Mimosa, is very true to the bloom in that it comes out of the bottle smelling like a golden, clear vegetable oil, slightly flat and oily to the nose. Within this oil aroma, there are small puffs of something quite like heliotrope – almond-like, puffy, sweet, reminiscent of Johnson’s Baby Oil, only not as “purple” or “cherry pie”-like. There are also whiffs of glue, the kind you give your kids to use for art projects. All in all, a very odd but childishly appealing aroma. Not terribly floral, but very true to life.

Later on, a powdery “yellow” pollen tonality develops, which in turn ushers in a sweet, translucent cucumber note. From this point onwards, the scent of Mimosa is mostly about that cucumber and pollen combination, which suits me just fine. I like this aspect of mimosa. The second part reminds me very much of Jo Malone’s Mimosa & Cardamom, which in turn reminds me a bit of the milky cucumber/dill/gripe water side of Le Labo Santal 33. But if you want to experience mimosa on its own, then this soliflore – Mimosa - is an excellent point of reference.
05th December, 2016

Soliflore Gardenia by Dame Perfumery

Gardenia from Dame Perfumery is a no-go for me, I’m afraid. I admit I’ve never smelled a gardenia in real life, but if it smells like this, then keep it far away from me. I am quite willing to recognize that this is very true to life, given that all the other Dame Perfumery soliflores are remarkably true to their source material. But tell me, does gardenia really smell like moldy butter, melted candy canes, and plastic? Because this is what Gardenia smells like.

Upon spraying it, I was immediately assaulted by the stench of butter that has developed black spots, and forgive me if this reference strikes you as being overly specific, but it is a clear olfactory memory from my time living in Belgrade in 2001.

Back then, the country was just opening up after years of NATO sanctions and obviously German producers were dumping all their stock on us cheaply. I would buy Meggle butter from the supermarket, and maybe 7 times out of 10, there would be black spots on it. If you have ever smelled butter that has gotten to this stage, then you’ll know that it is one of the worst smells in the world. Sometimes, the black spots would be slow to emerge and you’d eat some of it, and immediately your mouth knew that, shit, this was black spot butter.

Later, it developed into a creamy candy-like smell that my five year old son identified as “sweeties”. He thought it was pleasant and asked me to buy it. I guess he never smelled black spot butter – his father and I had only begin dating when black spot butter was a part of our lives, otherwise he never would have asked me. I have bought a fair few perfumes on his request (Un Bois Vanille, Etro Heliotrope) but I’m afraid I can’t indulge him here. Even the memory of it is making me dry-retch.
05th December, 2016

Soliflore Narcissus by Dame Perfumery

I think Narcissus is the clear standout in the Dame Perfumery soliflores I have thus far tested, although they are all very true to their source materials. Narcissus smells extremely dirty when first sprayed, like a men’s bathroom that had been hastily (badly) cleaned with cheap disinfectant, a nuance that runs very true to the flower’s fetid, inky barnyardy smell in nature.

But given a few minutes to settle, the sillage blooms with all the nicer aspects of narcissus itself – the yellow, oily pollen, the stemmy green aroma, the pale sweet powder, honey, grass – a heart-warming mixture of green and yellow hues, a ripped-from-nature smell that was both rudely animalic and elegant.

Wearing Narcissus allows me to recognize just how important a role narcissus plays in the grander compositions of Chamade and Le Temps d’Un Fete. It also confirmed that Romanza by Masque is stuffed to bursting with the stuff. Excellent work, and it makes me want to explore even more of Dame Perfumery's soliflores. A strange fact about this fragrance, though – it smells much nicer in one’s sillage than close up, on the skin, where it retains that dirty bathroom facet.
05th December, 2016

Elixir des Merveilles by Hermès

God, Elixir des Merveilles is such a weird perfume. The first time I tried it, I remember thinking – this right here is why people hate perfume. It was overly rich, sweet, muddy, with all the elements jumbled together in that overdone blur that defines “Rich Bitch” perfumes to me. The second time I tried it, I thought “I should learn how to read labels better” because I’d been aiming for the Ambre bottle.

Third time round, something clicked for me and I began to like it. Now I have odd, sudden cravings for it. I think it’s because I was finally able to figure out its structure. There are two sides to Elixir des Merveilles – the syrupy orange peels dipped in dark chocolate and sprinkled with sea salt on one side, and on the other, a massively butch clutch of resins and moss. It’s basically a super-gourmand grafted onto a super hairy-balled aftershave.

Both sides are as oversized as clown shoes. The oranges dipped in caramel and chocolate are sweet to the point of being grotesque. One minute you think it’s gorgeous, the next you think, Christ, this stuff is absolutely gross. The sprinkling of what feels like celery salt over the treacly mass is probably one step too far. I swing between feeling repulsed to wanting more. The countermanding element is rather chypre-like: a brusque, musky cedar, smoky balsams and resins, moss. It’s really quite dry, bitter, and smoky.

The exaggerated forms of the two parts give the perfume a cartoonish Jessica Rabbit shape. It’s like watching an overloaded plane trying to take off or Kim Kardashian walk across the road in a tight skirt. You half fear it’s going to topple over any minute. But somehow the whole thing seems to hang together and work quite well. It’s a great winter gourmand, and the oranges and resins make me think of Christmas and oddly, Theorema.

Just don’t put this on if you’re not in the right mood for it, because it sticks like glue and seems to grow grander by the minute. At times, I find it enveloping and rich – just right for a cold winter’s day. But at other times, it begins to wear me down. When my hand glides over the small bottle of it that I bought, I have to think twice before putting it on.
05th December, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Ambre 114 by Histoires de Parfums

An amber with a herbal undertone - that is my first impression here. The next constituent I get is a woodsy note, mainly a restrained sandal initially, then cedar and a mild rose impression. So far this is not a heavy scent, but it is not a lightweight either - of medium heaviness but on the brighter side of the spectrum.

Towards the base this becomes richer, darker and sweeter. This is mainly due to added tonka - sweetness - and a soft patchouli with benzoin - darkness with a touch of smokiness.

Additionally, at the later stages I get a discrete powderiness, which is added light-handedly and is neither stuffy nor heavy.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and eleven hours of longevity on my skin.

At times lacking complexity and not super-original, this scent works well on warmer autumn days, is blended in a balanced fashion and interesting enough to deserve a positive score -just. 3/5.
05th December, 2016

Danger pour Homme by Roja Dove

Danger - this is Roja Dove's fougere entry. His fragrance oeuvre covers all the important styles and Danger is the masculine fougere stop on his list that is very traditional with an almost note for note, exact list, following many great fougeres from our fragrant past with - bergamot, lemon, tonka, violet, vanilla and these are lightened by lily of the valley and ambergris and leather in the base. The core of this fragrance is its warm fougere traditional notes that smell like the finest barbershop scent. The "danger" part is the boldness of spices that are noticeable in the first half of the fragrance life. These spices typically show up in sport fragrances for a masculine and outdoors influence. There is cumin, clove, tarragon and a prickly rhubarb note spicing the blend. These prickly spices take this fougere in a similar direction as Azzaro pour Homme and this smells like a relative of this classic during the early going. But, masterful blending leads us away from Danger with a very soft and comforting musk, vetiver and leather base. The base is very tame and a simple powdery sweetness; a surprise after all of the early spices and the following soft leather development.

All in, Danger is a very good fougere rendition that is as pleasant to wear as many classic fougere fragrances, better than most I've tried although admittedly fougere is not my favorite type of fragrance. This is not an exceptional fragrance for our current state of fragrance evolution, but is enjoyable and comforting. I would rate this one: 7 / 10 stars.
04th December, 2016
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Reckless pour Homme by Roja Dove

Reckless is chock full of hard angles and prickly bits that take this fragrance in conflicting different directions "bull in a china shop" style - hence the name. It is hard to classify as it has some smooth fougere elements with lemon, lavender, rose and tonka but these soft gentlemanly accords offer a base of civility that doesn't last long amid the incense, dark aromatics and musk. It has a typical masculine feel about it with the fougere notes overlaid with spice of ginger, clove and cinnamon, but civil order is disrupted with contrasting cardamom, artemsia and black pepper creating sharp turns and hard edges around the softer elements. The base is a typical grounded base of sandalwood, incense, vetiver, orris, and tonka. The musk creates a bit of a stir with an animalic type musk note that shows up like that odd strange uncle who drops in for the holidays, and then disappears later and "who knows where he got off to?". Reckless is a good name for this multi directional and changeable masculine. My only complaint about Creation R is that you don't always know what you are going to get. There is a different leading aroma at different stages and although they all smell good, there is unpredictability in the mix that shows itself for the majority of the scent life.

I would rate this perfume slightly lower than other Roja fragrances I've tried due to its dense mottled nature. It is very enjoyable to wear, but lacks the calm self assurance you feel when you have less conflict in the fragrance blend. Rating: 6 of 10 stars!
04th December, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Moroccan Amber by Nest

The amber that gives this creationnits name is indeed the lynchpin on this product's development, but is entials a couple of interesting twists: A fresh bergamot is added, as is an initially strong and dominant eucalyptus. This eucalyptus has, at least initially, a strongly medicinal flavour, and blends in well with the bergamot-amber dyad. Well done.

Later on added nuances include a soft patchouli with a gentle incense and transient whiffs of a nutmeg-like impression; all this fades out slowly towards the end, with the ambery remaining present in the background like the idée fixe in the Symphonie Fantastique.

On my skin the performance is very convincing, with moderate sillage, excellent projection and twelve hours of longevity.

For a warmer autumn day, this is a pleasant and well-blanced compsition, not heavy and with a couple of original twists, including the eucalyptus note that vanishes later in the drydown. A Koala's delight. 3.5/5
04th December, 2016

The Buddhawood Box by 4160 Tuesdays

Lovely blend of creamy woods & flowers with good longevity.

Thumbs up!
04th December, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Alambar by Laboratorio Olfattivo

Yes, from beginning to end amber is indeed the core impression of this creation and runs through it from beginning to end like a golden thread. What strikes me in the opening phase is the lively and lovely bergamot, which adds a fresh side tonthe amner, resulting in an inusual brightening of the ambery top note.

The drydown sheds the fresher component and adds richer and sweeter tones, with cinnamon, tonka, a light touch of fleeting incense and hints of caramel that are well placed, resulting in an admirably balanced result. This amber-centric composition is always more on the elegant than on the thickly-cloying side, even with a restrainedly resinous undertone.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a splendid twelve hours of longevity on my skin.

An amber scent well suited for warmer autumn days, well balanced and made with a touch of creativity, albeit, like the design of the bottle, more on the linear side. 3.5/5.
03rd December, 2016

French Line by Révillon

Brutal Bergamot, Herbal start of many Masculines of the Era. This blooms with a slightly dry Floral Bouquet, that of Jasmine, Rose and light rigidity of Narcisse. A quiet sharpness of Patchouli weaves with Quality Musks. Coconut barely noticeable adds a buttery succulence in the background. Another beautifully put together perfume from the 80's. Although it shares a Chanel finesse and similar structure of Antaeus, I find it has none of the skank of the one and only. I am surprised that it is not talked about so much. If you see it, pick it up.I will!!
03rd December, 2016

West Side by Bond No. 9

Very pleasant sweet floral Rose, Peony, Patchouli dance. Soft and to my mind leans Feminine. Similar to L'Inspiratrice by Divine. Very nice, however the Divine is much grander with a hint of sexiness.
This is the first Bond I've tried and I am impressed.
02nd December, 2016

21 Club by 21 Club

From a Vintage sample? graciously supplied by Bavard.
Whoa! Brutal start like a typical 80's monster. Lavender citrus with an 80's dose of Leathery Labdanum dryness, Galbanum and an excellent plonk of Oakmoss. Good quality Oakmoss allows for a long drydown. I smell the outline of this 12 hours later. Some pick up a woodiness, I pick up a dry tobacco.
I could'nt help thinking, "This relates to something I've worn lately".
Dusita Le Sillage Blanc. 21 Club is more linear and as expected Mossy longlived. The Dusita has a cloud of Neroli, Orange Blossom and Ambrette that makes it prettier.
If you can find it, 21 Club is a winner, particularily with it's Oakmoss lusciousness.
02nd December, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Mirra (Myrrh) by AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo

Myrrhe galore! With amber!

Myrrhe from begonning to end. It is a lovely herbal note, at times with hints of a woodsy undertone, and combined with an amber impression that is impressive indeed.

What pervails throughout is the myrrhe-amber duo. At times a whiffs of woods are added, with a soft and restrained smoky-powdery undertone that sometimes also expressed mildly resinous characteristics.

I get strong sillage, excellent projection and a splendid longevity of fourteen hours on my skin.

At times this autumnal scent is a bit linear, nut otherwise it is very impressive. This is mainly due to the beautiful quality of the first-class natural ingredients, which are well-blended. A great example of a myrrhe-amber creation. 3.75/5.
02nd December, 2016

Sultanate of Oman by Roja Dove

This is probably the most spectacular frankincense scent I've ever smelled. The first blast is extremely strong and orgasmic, the combination of rose and incense is incredibly beautiful, this combination lasts for a few hours and as the scent dries down it becomes drier and woodier possibly from the beautiful amyris, which gives the overall fragrance a soft creaminess to it. Although the dry-down becomes much softer it unmistakably remains dry and resinous that stays true to nature of frankincense. Sultanate of Oman is yet another creation by Roja Dove that showcases just how masterful the pefumer really is. He hits this one way out of the park! Bravo!
01st December, 2016 (last edited: 02nd December, 2016)

Britannia by Roja Dove

This review is for Roja Dove Britannia which was released in 2016 (not 2012). Britannia is a different fragrance from Roja Dove Great Britain which is a limited edition and which might have the notes listed on the Basenotes page for Britannia. The notes for Britannia are: top notes - citron, bergamot, mandarin orange and tangerine; middle notes - rose de mai, jasmine, champaca, heliotrope, cassia, violet and peach; base notes - cinnamon, cloves, patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood, vanilla, cacao, musk, orris root and ambergris.

Britannia is a very clean scented, citrus and floral powdered chypre that is constructed with layerings of the very best materials to achieve a mandala of layered warm and floral simple clean pleasantness. This is the sweet powdered sheen of aristocracy and privilege. Brittania reminds me of the image of a well dressed, very proper perfectly dressed and perfumed privileged class. It smells like old world fragrances might have smelled at one time.

The note for the powdered base is centered around cacao. Cocoa powder is enhanced with musks, orris root, peach, violet, heliotrope, champaca, cinnamon, and sandalwood - all notes of powdery nature but each bringing a different aspect too of citrus, resin or floral aspects into the density of the fragrance.

Brittania appeals to our sense memory bringing back the the allure of vintage perfumes of past generations such as: Tiffany for Men, Chanel Pour Monsieur and Givenchy Gentleman. These all have that lightly scented powder base but strength as well. However the materials of Britannia are much more luxurious and intricately layered reaching for a simplicity that is difficult to achieve. This is a beautiful fragrance, that I am sure many people will enjoy and treasure. But it feels overworked and too complicated to achieve the simplicity and integrity that I was hoping to find.
01st December, 2016 (last edited: 02nd December, 2016)

Les Nombres d'Or : Cuir by Mona di Orio

A potent leather - a new or fresh leather smell as mentioned below, also a smoky, peppery, beef jerky smell, as mentioned, which all sounds fine, but it's just a bit harsh, even a bit boozy, and intermittently synthetic: imagine an especially strong-smelling leather sofa in the home of a heavy drinker and smoker, or maybe a bar.
01st December, 2016

Trussardi Uomo The Red by Trussardi

Nothing "red" (namely baroque, luxurious, exotic or decadent) under my profane nose. If "red" is Habit Rouge, Basala or Xeryus Rouge we are unfortunately quite distant from these levels guys. A great disappointment as well as all the brand new Trussardi's recent issues (Uomo new and Black Extreme). Well, Vintage Trussardi Uomo was one of the best 10 fragrances ever created imo, here we are groping in a misty swamp of disconcerting "fashionable" mediocrity. I don't get any sign of style or creativity my friends, a pity for a brand which I generally appreciate. An uninspired combination of nowadays mainstream "scratchy/metallic/mentholated" olfactive stereotypes. To be direct, an ideal minty-ambery-spicy hyper synthetic combination of scents a la Roccobarocco Estraordinary for men, Paco Rabanne One Million, Montblanc Legend, Ysl Silver kouros, Ted Lapdus Black Soul, overall amalgamated by a disgusting neutral cedary woodiness and by hints of pale (somewhat impalpable) ambroxan-mastered creamy simil booziness (cognac? Magari!!!). Violet, clary sage's mintiness, tonka/tolu balm and gassy woodiness are dominant under my nose. Great italian classy packaging. Pass by. Please Trussardi, be serious, give me back my immense vintage Uomo.
01st December, 2016

Equipage Géranium by Hermès

Love it! It starts with a nice blend of aromatic herbs and fresh spiciness and dries down to an aromatic floral-spicy-moss like base. It is so well blended that it can be difficult to separate the notes. Not that I mind, since well blended is a positive feature in my book.

The dry down seems to contain a dose of oakmoss and perhaps a dash of civet. It is unapologetic masculine - make no mistake about it as this is no unisex fragrance. I find it rather sexy - for the grown up man.

I cannot compare it with the regular Equipage since I don't know that fragrance well enough, though this fragrance is excellent and one of Hermes' best, in my opinion. It projects quite well and has a rather good duration, perhaps 6-7 hours on my skin.

01st December, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Monogram Collection : Myrrh Casati by Mona di Orio

The opening mixes the eponymous myrrhe with a mandarin and a floral lotus impression - and it does that very well. A rich myrrh, it is nicely balanced by its citrus sidekick, very nicely indeed.

Later on he amber arises - not very dark an amber it is - and light brushings of a sweetish raisinous undertone also present. Bitter almond is also features here, with a pleasantly smoky undertone. The base adds gentle spices, just a dash of white pepper added to this olfactory menu. Hints of white musks come and go throughout the latter stages.

I get strong sillage, excellent projection and a brilliant longevity - fourteen hours on my skin.

One of the convincing myrrhe creations, more concentrated than, for instance, Annick Goutal's Myrrhe Ardente, this is a spring creation made of high-quality ingredients and very well blended whilst being a performance powerhouse on me. Maybe a bit lacking in complexity towards the end, it is otherwise a convincing testimony to the quality of this house, whose founder died so tragically. 3.75/5
01st December, 2016

Rudis by Nobile 1942

Genre: leather, smoky-incensey leather. Nobile 1942 Rudis opens powerfully (and vaguely medicinal) with a stout/strong campfire-like accord of smoke (smoky frankincense), rubber-mastic, woody resins and leather, overall in a way like ideally combining in one single assertive potion scents a la Santa Maria Novella Nostalgia, Les Nombres d'Or Cuir by Mona di Orio, Pekji Cuir6, Profumum Roma Arso, Sonoma Scent Studio Fireside Intense (the latter being more oriented on the woody-animalic side), Le Labo Oud 27 and Tauer Lonestar Menories. The leather's touch seems by soon smooth, spicy, suedish and dry with notable hints of "ash/tray-like" rubber. I surely detect dry spices (mostly clove and pepper), patchouli and probably (along the way) hints of rose but honestly is out of me "isolating" all the rest (dried fruits, vetiver, further florals?). Anyway I don't catch any luxurious (and almost culinary) burnt sugary-figgy-boozy-green aromatic vibe a la Histoires de Parfums 1740 (a far superior juice). Smokiness goes gradually fading (but never disappearing) and all the rest is a pale (really vain) and "neutral" dry smoky (ash-tray like) leather supported by burnt resins (woody resins, birch tar, hints of moss, smoky woods and frankincense). Dry down elicits a sort of vaguely viney suedish smokiness. Probably hints of balsams or myrrh provide a final whiff of powdery soapiness. Faint complexity, longevity and sillage on my skin. End of the story.
30th November, 2016

Enigma pour Homme by Roja Dove

Enigma is a warm spicy floral amber over tobacco and woods perfume, composed with a familiar feel and ambience of Roja Dove masculine fragrances. Enigma consists of two distinct layers for a "wall of aroma" first wave of blending of neroli, rose, geranium, heliotrope, ginger and vanilla/ambergris that establishes a pleasant warm harmony. The base layer or second wall of aroma rolls in with a much lower register of darker density from black pepper, cardamom, patchouli, tobacco, and sandalwood. The light layer roils above the lower darker one as if two constellations slowly collide merging through an accommodating bridge made of a warm cognac note. This is a very distinguished arrangement of notes and is one of the finer Dove fragrances. You will find no oud or leather here, a rare omission from Roja's palette but the tobacco and patchouli base makes up for whatever might be missing. This one is not my favorite from Roja Dove, but I can easily see why it is a favorite for many.
30th November, 2016

Vetiver Extreme by Guerlain

Although I have not experienced the original this is an exceptional fragrance. As far as comparisons this is a smoother vetiver than say Encre Noire for sure. I do like this a tad bit more than Encre and would say this is a smoother scent and is overall well rounded from start to finish. For the price and quality it is a blind buy for any fan of vetiver. Enjoy!
30th November, 2016