Perfume Reviews

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Total Reviews: 134212

Vetiver de Java by Il Profumo

This is an embarassingly grotesque parody of an old-school lavender scent with absolutely 0 (zero) vetiver in it. Just sickening cheap lavender and a ton of moldy camphoraceous musk. Weirdly dusty and humid at once, basically like licking a the sweaty neck of a decommissioned drag queen. Brrr.

3/10
26th March, 2017

Civet by Zoologist Perfumes

I can solemnly assert that Zoologist Civet is a contemporary gem, really, a cult fragrance (by now a modern classic), a pretty gorgeous creation which, while paying tribute to a classic baroque french honeyed-mossy-spicy chypre tradition (civet= Coco Chanel, Guerlain Djedi, Rochas Mystere, Must de Cartier, Estee Lauder Knowing etc), manages at same time to strum the (wilder fruity-spicy) strings of the Indie's
dodgy creative underworld, succeeding in the aim to conjugate (exactly a la House of Matriarch Bohemian Black, a far Civet's cousin) classic and contemporary, baroquely structural and the wild cozy countryside-farm's universe (just to be better intended: ideally the classic Roccobarocco woman or Ungaro Diva interpenetrate their classic substance with the visceral Slumberhouse Sova or Rundholz 03.Apr.1968). A proudly synth note of civet is in here connected to roasted coffee, resinous plummy-figgy spices, tropical flowers and "forest" in order to disclose a bold bloody (salty-plummy) effluvium which is all at once sapiently (with balance) alluring and wildly rural. Opening is quite visceral, a blast of sultry-spicy indescribable emotions (dark, sparkling, multicolored, equatorial, dry-fruity and dirty/sweated). I detect by soon a dark resinous-peppery-woodsy/mossy-liquorous classically chypre background enveloping the brisk sultry elements of the piquant night and overall is supported by a toasted accord of earthy patchouli, burnt dried fruits and roasted coffee. I can pick up dried figs, tropical flowers (kind of orchid, tuberose, ylang-ylang), salty leather, toasted tobacco, liqueur, sugary nuts, impenetrable spices, woods, misty resins and tasty balsams (the culinary-boozy-bloody carnality of this opening "recalls" to me an ideal combination of Les Liquides Imaginaires Belo Rabello and several of the spiciest/more syrupy/honeyed Slumberhouse's creations a la Jeke and Sova). Apart toasted coffee I detect a general (typically Indie in style) burnt-sugar's effect as mastering (resins galore). The core of this juice is represented by this central mysterious connection of toasted coffee and a sort of animalic black (salty-acid) musk (the synth civet's effect). I don't get the civet's typical fecal vibe, while I surely detect (as background and after many hours) an erotic sort of "stale - vaguely acid - pungent sweat of the body recesses-effect" combined with wax and honey (which is typical of vintage animalic chypres). Along the way various balsams seem to go soothing the elements and a muskier-lighter more "polished" chypre (mossy-woody-honeyed) vibe pops up as a stroke of fate. I detect in this phase a vaguely less dark presence of honey, oakmoss, heliotrope and mossy leather. The main effect, despite stable (sapiently orchestrated, alluring, elegant) and proudly classic "in school", is anyway destabilizing, avant-garde and incredibly erotic. Super bold sillage and great longevity on my feral skin. Excellent creation nearby the house of Zoologist.
26th March, 2017
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Amarige by Givenchy

A deep, dark opening of ripe, fruity plum and touches of raisin that soon gives way to the high-power floral onslaught: a tuberose is tuberose is tuberose. This tuberose is deep, dark, with some, but not a lot, of waxiness attached to it. A whole battery of other floral notes are needed to counteract the soaring central tuberose: a darkish rose for starters, with jasmine, orchids and carnation contributing their shares.

The second stage mellows a bit and grows sweeter, owing to to tonka and ylang-ylang, and whiffs of a light musky undertone. Towards the end touches of neroli add a slightly brighter note.

I get strong sillage, excellent projection and nine hours of longevity on my skin.

A rich scent for cool spring and warm autumn evenings, this is for the tuberosophilic only. In all its headiness it still is quite balanced on me, and never cloying or overly intrusive, except, perhaps, for the first minute or so. The main drawback - and the main reason for the neutral score, is an, at times overbearing, synthetic nature of the core components. 2.75/5.
26th March, 2017
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Nightingale by Zoologist Perfumes

Nightingale is my first experience with Zoologist, the magnificent "by flora/fauna-inspired" Indie/naturalistic canadian alchemic niche brand. Their collection is aimed to capture the idiosyncrasies of the animal kingdom, transforming them into scents that are somewhat unusual and original. The main goal is supposed to be the one to connect "by perfumes" the wearer to great delights of the natural world. My first impression testing the juice on skin is immediately kind of wowing me; whatta resinous impact, what a fantastic indolic approach, what a visceral fruity-floral musky assault!! First of all, this is a super spicy-resinous creation (spicy frankincense, oudh, ambergris, fir resins, labdanum etc), as much resinous to conjure me (anyway in to a far more fruity-floral key) scents a la Cerchi Nell'Acqua Usmar Venezia, Tiziana Terenzi Gold Rose Oudh or several of the most straightforward frankincense-based accords (though in this case frankincense is well calibrated and is just like a brick of a more complex high construction). There is a "nowadays classic" central accord of rose/saffron/oudh but in this case fruity-floral intense elements and rich muskiness provide a new deeper vegetal outcome. The juice expresses a "japanese-in-inspiration" sort spring-time botanic atmosphere (the perfumer Tomoo Inaba is surely inspired by her japanese origin and the "naturalistic past" in deep contact to nature). Nightingale is a fruity-floral chypre (finally honeyed, rosey, waxy, apparently aldehydic, musky) opening with an assault of rosey saffron, plums (japanese plum blossoms) and violet under my profane south-european nose. Violet is temperamental for sure. The rosey vibe is by soon super spicy, creamy and yummy (sort of balmy, almost saffrony-syrupy) and its royal neo-victorian neutral/detergent/botanic/leafy-like vibe is counteracted by a more pungent accord of plums and violet (kind of berrish, juicy and candied). The overall atmosphere is surely musky, hyper musky, silvan and vegetal. A lemony note (on the side of woods) reinforces in the meanwhile the fruity-floral "plummine's intensity" and the general "perfumed botanic intensity" of the opera. The visceral floral syrup (really saffrony-rosey, plummy and resinous), as conjoined to carnal resins and deep musk, provides a quite sensual general effect while patchouli enhances structure and charisma. A fragrance by a great structure, gorgeousness and complexity claiming to capture the Japanese spring's onset with an obsessive dark floral pungency and a general sense of soapy-assertive oriental rapture. Excellent.
25th March, 2017

Dior Dior by Christian Dior

The ’70s was the decade of the sequel and the greatest hits album. It’s as if the late ’60s had used up the cultural capacity for new ideas and reiteration was the new innovation. As the name implies, Dior Dior favored repetition over novelty.

All members of Edmond Roudnitska’s citrus chypre family trace their roots to the voluptuous stone fruit chypres Femme and Diorama, but Dior Dior is better viewed against the other citrus chypres: Moustache, Eau Fraîche, Eau d’Hermès, le Parfum de Thérèse. Roudnitska investigated the fruity chypre, pulling a hint of decay from the common ground of overripe fruit and mature flowers.

Dior Dior owes much to the two perfumes that directly preceded it. You can smell whole pieces of Eau Sauvage and Diorella while wearing Dior Dior. The fruit is fresher than Diorella’s half-decayed melon and despite a hefty dose of moss, Dior Dior is more straight-laced than Eau Sauvage. The lemon/aldehyde pairing recreates Eau Sauvage’s mouth-watering lemon-drop but overall Dior Dior resembles Diorella. It shares Diorella’s general shape, but squeezes it into a girdle to suppress any errant curves.

With a brighter fruit note and cleaner florals Dior Dior comes off as more prim than its siblings. Compared to Diorella’s sultriness and easy virtue, and Eau Sauvage’s cruisy Playboy After Dark vibe, Dior Dior is a prig. The hint of skank tempers Dior Dior’s coloratura topnotes, but only *just*. If Diorella reflected a chic, offbeat style, Dior Dior suited a debutante. First impressions matter. The lemony shine and choir of aldehydes create a peppy, Anita Bryant/Up-With-People cheerfulness that seems at odds with the turned-fruit styles of chypre that Roudnitska developed over the years.

‘Cultural’ tone aside, Dior Dior is an excellent example of Roudnitska’s pursuit of simplicity. In his discussion of the art of perfumery he espoused the belief that richness doesn’t require complexity. His sumptuous perfumes were apparently the result of succinct formulae. Generating plush perfumes from concise composition might appear counterintuitive, but Roudnitska proved his point. His perfumes couldn’t rightly be called minimalist but they all have a feeling of perfect balance. Elements that don’t contribute to a perfume’s central goal have been edited out and the central olfactory ideas are diamond-like. In this respect, Dior Dior is classic Roudnitska.

from scenthurdle.com
25th March, 2017

Sublime Balkiss by The Different Company

Fruity green chypre which recalls for example Cristalle (Chanel) as well as Chypre Mousse from Oriza Legrand. A nice fragrance, I would have said feminine rather than masculine, unless you regard all perfumes as unisex.
25th March, 2017

Oud for Love by The Different Company

My initial impression was something rich and smoky, tarry, almost like cade oil. But with a heavy animalic aspect, leathery, with maybe a hint of licorice. Perfect for when I don my leathers and mosey down to the bikers club to meet my fellow greasers for a ton-up ride.
25th March, 2017

Aurore Nomade by The Different Company

Immediate positive reaction to this one, and yes, I got the banana even before I read the official description. And I would have said tuberose, but it may be the frangipani and ylang, at any rate it's a mellifluous cocktail. Probably with masculine appeal similar to Hermes rocabar.
25th March, 2017

Rose Poivrée by The Different Company

I was at once repelled and fascinated by this perfume. It's unpleasant but in a captivating way, and it's like nothing I've ever smelled. The nearest might be Mugler's Womanity, but it's even more bizarre than that. Totally alien, like something from another planet. If this was a car, it would be a Nissan Juke. So ugly, it's almost beautiful.
25th March, 2017

Le 15 by The Different Company

I agree with you, Goodlife, that Le 15 is not particularly thrilling. But if you check on Ausliebezumduft, all the Different Co's perfumes are categorically guaranteed to avoid all synthetics, iso-e-super included! I pointed out the musk cannot be synthetic, and they revised the claim to 95 to 99% natural. Difficult to believe and they may have corrected their claims now, but at least the bottles are good quality and some of the scents are quite good. However, this one is forgettable, like you say.
25th March, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Very Irrésistible Harvest 2008 Rose Damascena by Givenchy

This is indeed a rose that is a rose that is a rose. Initially a bold but elegant rose impression, it soon adds a second rose impression that is sweeter and very bright. The top notes a definitely on the bright side.

The drydown, whilst sticking with the rose-theme, is smoother, the sweetness more discrete, and touches of anise and a soft patchouli in the central stage, but until the end theme is remains a potpourri if different roses; initially Damascene, later more centifolia.

I get moderate sillage, very good sillage and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

A gorgeous summer rose scent, elegant and rich at the same time, and composed of beautiful ingredients of high quality. A rose fest for the rose lover. 3.75/5
25th March, 2017

Tokyo Bloom by The Different Company

With its intriguing name and green colour, I was keen to sample this fragrance, but when I finally got to do so it was different from what I expected. Not a green note in sight, my main impression was the overdosed musk. And the type of musk veers uncomfortably towards old fashioned musk ketone, not one of my favourites. Supposedly it evokes cherry tree blossoms in springtime Japan, though whether this is anything more than marketing hype is debatable.

With time however this fragrance has rather grown on me. Perceptions change, as is often the case. The musk seems sweeter and more modern, and the freshness reminds me of Lancôme's Aquatonic, a very clean impression overall. I can even believe noses more sensitive than mine might pick out some subtle green notes.

It's certainly elegant, unassuming and polite, qualities I associate with the Japanese.
24th March, 2017 (last edited: 26th March, 2017)

Bergamote / Divine Bergamote by The Different Company

Well its bergamot alright, the question is whether it's a nicer smell than good quality bergamot oil itself. I'm not presently convinced of that but I'm reserving judgement.
24th March, 2017
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Charmes et Feuilles by The Different Company

The strong aroma of surgical spirit (methyl salicylate, wintergreen) and cough mixture here leads me to suppose it may be suitable for members of the nursing profession. Or indeed for doctors (such as myself). Would I wear it on my rounds? Well yes, I might. It has an appealing freshness and a certain originality about it. One spritz three times a day should keep me on top form.
24th March, 2017

Ruh by Pekji

Stardate 20170324:

Take note perfumers - This is how a saffron should be done.
It is the main player with rose and spice supporting it.
Unlike other reviewers, I dont get much coffee here.
This is a great saffron scent.

24th March, 2017

Une Nuit Magnétique by The Different Company

Unfortunately this type of note is one I'm familiar with from a particular mass market deodorant and toiletry line, so that rather spoils it for me. And also sows doubts about how different some of the Different Company's perfumes really are.
24th March, 2017

Limon de Cordoza by The Different Company

A very familiar theme, which will no doubt appeal to some people. - Eau fraiche, Eau Sauvage with a strong emphasis on the patchouli.
24th March, 2017
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United Kingdom

Armani Privé Encens Satin by Giorgio Armani

The incense is clearly the dominant impression at the opening - restrainedly spicy, with only a touch of an balsamic undertone, not really ceremonial and quite well done. After a while a synthetic fuitiness creeps in, which at times takes on a mildly boozy character.

In the drydown a slightly sweetish amber evolves that appears to have a touch if tonka attached to it. Towards the later stages the incense retreats and the ambery fruitiness prevails until the end.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

Not a particularly creative scent for wintery days, it is a lighter and not too intensive incense composition - incense lite so to speak. The fruitiness in not particularly nice, but not really unpleasant either. Overall just deserving a - just - positive score. 3/5.
24th March, 2017

Nuda by Nasomatto

Jasmine soliflore, as others have said. Sweet, deep, indolic, animalic. I'm not sure that I get the spearmint I've seen mentioned, but there is a cool, mentholic note behind the huge white floral opening. When I take a deep whiff of my hand, the jasmine settles to leave a definite fecal aftertaste in the back of my throat; it gives amazing depth. The opening is neither pretty nor polite, but it is very striking indeed. It's when the heart of the fragrance rises - the animalic aspect quietens and the jasmine softens - that Nuda becomes truly beautiful.
If I were feeling very bold and had the necessary attitude, this stuff would smell incredible billowing up from a white-shirted cleavage. On a less self-possessed day, I can imagine feeling like I'd been suffocated with a bag of over-ripe jasmines and shat on by a cat.
Inventive and special stuff, but not for the faint-hearted. It's a real shame that the EDP is no longer available, but even a 10ml decant would last a while - this stuff is potent and definitely not for everyday wear.
23rd March, 2017 (last edited: 24th March, 2017)

Mon Guerlain by Guerlain

It's really not worth all the hoopla surrounding the launch. It's a run-of-the-mill sugary fruity-floral, adding nothing new to an already crowded segment of the market. Not vile, just dull.
23rd March, 2017

Quelques Notes d'Amour l'Eau de Toilette by Yves Rocher

Sultry and musky a la Versace Eros Pour Femme, just a tad less fruity, pungent, radiant and musky. While Versace pushes the accelerator over magnolia, freesia, orange blossoms and ozonic molecules Yves Rocher Quelques Notes d'Amour is more properly rosey, light, delicate and balmy-ambery (soapy). Both the creations are "airy", fruity (red fruits from the forest - cassis, raspberry, bilberry etc), salty and exude a sort of sultry-"sweated" synth sensual "sweet-salty" (musky/ambery) presence which is finally warm, pretty feminine and slightly dissonant. A decent easy feminine eau.
23rd March, 2017

Eau Mage by Diptyque

Stardate 20170323:

A very nice frag that is destroyed by Ambroxan overload. The Ambrox is cloying and tenacious.
23rd March, 2017

Opôné by Diptyque

Stardate 20170323:

A nice rose wood perfume. Nothing special but nicely done.
23rd March, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
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L'Arte di Gucci by Gucci

The top notes as marvellous: rose, muguet, jasmine and - just the right dose - aldehydes emanate to create a floral basket of delicious beauty. Just a touch boozy, the rose is medium-dark, rich and intensive, counterbalanced beautifully by the white florals. A fine web of coriander with whiffs of a soft patchouli add just a hint of spice.

In the drydown the white florals, emboldened by additional lashings of carnation and geranium, gorgeous! A floral fest extraordinaire!

The base takes a turn to the darker, with the soft patchouli more evident and a convincing dark musk too. More amazing is the underlying well-balanced top-notch oakmoss, which adds just the right amount of an harsher edge towards the end, with a touch of salty and earthy vetiver roots mixing with the faecaloid-mossy backgound seamlessly.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a splendid longevity of twelve hours on my skin.

This is a nighttime spring creation of great character, luscious with seductive darkness under a floral aura of great beauty. The quality of the natural ingredients is absolutely sublime, the nuances are breathtaking at times and the whole is one of the masterpieces this house has produced in its somewhat patchy olfactory history over time. For once the name is apt - this is classic olfactory art; a Turner for the nose 4/5.
23rd March, 2017

Cellini by Fabergé

"In to the fougere's wild". Faberge Cellini for men is a quite refined (but really "strong") freshly aromatic barber-shop classic fougere exuding a fascinating fresh aura a la Aramis Tuscany Man (a lot), Drakkar Noir, Cuba Black men by Cuba Paris or (mostly) Azzaro Pour Homme. I detect this mastering initial soapy-anisic accord of aromatic herbs, fresh lavender and citrus, immediately supported by leather/patchouli (with a quite soapy-suedish leather's effect), by a refined sharp floral core (mostly carnation under my profane nose), overall flowing down towards a mossy-ambery-leathery base (dandy, classy, "tailored", leathery, soapy, aromatic, dry). Anisic lavender, musks, synth ambergris and soapy leather are dominant throughout while the florals are restrained, angular and "accessorial". I detect an undeniable spicy presence (and some misty earthiness) but the juice is mostly an aromatic-soapy (mossy-ambery-leathery) fougere with a radiant spark of gentlemanly dandy class. Supremely masculine. Durable on my bastard skin.
P.S: dry down is darker (vaguely smoky, austere, quite soapy-mossy - but all at once angular - and assertive a la Ysl vintage Rive Gauche).
22nd March, 2017 (last edited: 23rd March, 2017)

Scent No. 1 - Bergamot Sage by Cognoscenti

Bergamot Sage opens with very delicate and quite beautiful sparkling pink grapefruit, bergamot, slight fig and light woods and light musk as a base. The first few sniffs were very nice, then its gone. This fragrance does not have enough contrasts within it for the the delicate and pretty notes to stand up against. I tried it a couple of times and it always disappears quickly after a very nice scented opening. Turn up the contrast and brightness controls please. Sorry it doesn't work for me.
22nd March, 2017

Scent No. 8 - Aldehydic Oakmoss by Cognoscenti

Aldehydic Oakmoss is a middle toned scent that has a continuous hollow toned metallic vegetal green aroma that occasionally slows down to a warm toasty cocoa but then returns to the metallic green. This ringing and changing vibrancy is from the nature of aldehydes upon scent which creates a revolving and changing tonal circle of green tartness and then toasty tonka cocoa tones that returns back to each other. This creates kind of a changeling leather aroma. It is an elliptical frequency of changing aroma that is pleasant but very difficult to pin down because there is no start and stop points. The inability to identify specific notes makes the fragrance hard to remember. It is nice to wear and smell, but soon it is "what was that smell again?" I dunno. This fragrance has an invisibility cloak quality due to its generic tonal range and changeability. It is pleasant but hard to identify/or remember. I would rate it 6/10.
22nd March, 2017

Estivalia by Antonio Puig

More of an Eau de Cologne on my male skin. Citrus top which shortlived. Light floral with a Vetiver finish.
Uncomplicated, fresh, not overly Feminine aura. Nice for the hot, humid, summers. A cut bove the regular body wash scents.
22nd March, 2017

Scent No. 30 - Hay Incense by Cognoscenti

Cognesenti created a fragrance called Hay Incense. The initial opening aroma is hay and this warm lazy straw aroma is surrounded by a variety of almost hay like elements that causes the hay scent to move back and forth and side to side giving it depth and mass and an incense of sorts of hay aroma. Birch leaf, Immortelle, benzoin, oak, leather, labdanum - these are all very low toned almost sweet dry hay type smells. The leather is noticeable in the base too. I would change the name to Hay Leather to more accurately match the scent with the name. I like the end result of this fragrance but I think it's lack of opening notes keeps its low profile, rhetorical incense, almost invisible presence from the outset straight through to base notes. It is all same - all the way through. This fragrance would make a good base accord on which to add totally new top notes and heart notes. There is potential here. I would rate this one 7 of 10.
22nd March, 2017

Scent No. 19 - Warm Carrot by Cognoscenti

Warm Carrot is a very stable warmed smiling skin fragrance made of multi faceted pleasant to smell ingredients. This scent is a mood upflifter but is slow and steady in action. The amber accord here is a base uplifted with Ylang Ylang which can and does also have some slight narcotic indolic muskiness. Benzoin and vanilla also add sunshine the mix. Vetiver keeps it grounded and carrot seed oil gives it a slight rooty personality, a nod to the garden, that is far less of an influence than the name implies - very slight. I doubt I would pick out the carrot oil ingredient if it were not posted in the fragrance name. The overall result is the impression of sun smacked, ozone warmed bare skin which has been working earnestly and with good intentions about the garden. That smell - it is nice!
22nd March, 2017
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