Perfume Reviews

Latest Perfume Reviews

Total Reviews: 137461

Rose Gold by Ormonde Jayne

Genre: Floral Oriental

Rose Gold opens on a lovely, juicy bergamot top note, which is soon painted over with a rich, expensive-smelling taifi rose of impressive depth and complexity. Moderately indolic jasmine, labdanum, and a touch of medicinal oudh support the rose in a deep, jammy, winey accord that my nose finds highly appealing. The entire composition is rounded off by a very smooth, plush sandalwood note. If all of this sounds potentially dense and weighty, it’s not. While Rose Gold is undeniably potent, it’s also surprisingly transparent, given its concentration (parfum) and its content.

Stylistically, Rose Gold bears comparison to woody rose fragrances like Amouage’s Lyric Man and Lyric Woman, Frédéric Malle’s Portrait of a Lady, and Grès’s defunct Cabaret. At times it is even distantly reminiscent of Guerlain’s classic Nehéma, though Rose Gold seems to me sweeter and fruitier than all of the aforementioned. Besides being quite potent, Rose Gold is durable and tenacious, with an appealingly plush drydown of sandalwood and musk (ambrette?) that lingers for hours on the skin. All in all, a very pleasing addition to Geza Shoen’s growing portfolio for Ormonde Jayne.
20th August, 2017

Satine by Lalique

This is a sweet powdery floral scent feeling velvet and warm on skin. It serves as an ideal perfume for all-year-around. Reminds me of Amour by Kenzo ...a sweet floriental fragrance.
20th August, 2017
JBS1 Show all reviews
United States

Ottoman Empire by Areej le Doré

The house of Feel Oud and Areej le Dore is so exciting . We have someone who goes to remote locations for resourcing material , who has his own distilling process , who has wonderful communication with the fragrance community, and has a profound understanding in bringing what frag heads have desired for some time, excellence in all categories when it comes to perfumery. I honestly believe that the best is yet to come when it comes to AreeJ le Dore and Feel Oud.
I only have a 10 ml of Ottoman Empire, but I hope to acquire a full bottle soon.
I simple love it.
20th August, 2017
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Qatar by Roja Dove

Genre: Floral Oriental

Qatar opens on a very sweet orange rind top note that is soon flanked by a syrupy peach and berry accord that will persist through much of the scent’s development. Jasmine, intensely sweet, powdery amber, and rose emerge alongside the fruit syrup to form the spine of Qatar’s fruity gourmand floral oriental structure. As I wear this scent, there emerges a nagging sense of familiarity about its loud, somewhat crass, syrupy sweet gourmand texture. Roja Dove has been called a derivative house, and at best its fragrances are classicizing in their style. If derivative, Qatar seems vaguely derivative of the loud, sweet berries and candyfloss part of Angel, without the dissonant woody patchouli accord that lends Angel its androgynous sense of humor and most of its interest.

The Roja Dove press material for Qatar goes on at some length about ambergris, but if there’s an ambergris reconstruction lurking somewhere in Qatar, it’s buried deeply under the tide of sweet fruit syrup. By this (sweet) point (sweet sweet) you may be (sweet sweet) detecting a (sweet) theme (sweet sweet) to this (sweet sweet sweet) review. Qatar is a rather one dimensionally sweet fragrance for most of its development, and while I suspect that some fine materials went into its production, this style of fragrance can’t help but smell somewhat banal and cheap. And who, I ask, is going to pay $330 US per once to smell cheap?

On the bright side, those who demand performance will certainly be satisfied with Qatar. Its power is fully in line with its extrait concentration, and projection is far-flung. Qatar is tenacious and persists for hour upon hour, pumping out fluorescent pink fruity-floral amber in great, heaving waves around the wearer. When Qatar eventually reaches its drydown, things actually get more interesting, with the emergence of some dark woody notes, labdanum, and birch tar, but by that point I admit that I’ve lost interest. I suppose if you’re a fan of the sort of fruity florals marketed to teenage girls, but can’t find anything strong or lasting enough to satisfy your fancy, Qatar may be for you. Otherwise, I’m not sure I understand the point.
20th August, 2017

Oumma by Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777

A deep dark rose and incense oud fragrance. The darkness and mystery of Oumma is a palpable presence - smokey and intimidating with its darkness. The notes listed elsewhere are more accurate than those listed here: Egyptian jasmine, Moroccan rose, Peruvian balsam, balsam tolu, ashes of cade, Burmese oud, nagarmotha. The cade and nagarmotha really ground the powerful rose/oud of this fragrance. Excellent!
20th August, 2017

L'Homme Accompli by Divine

Genre: Leather

I have to hand it to Divine: this outfit has taken great care with their line. They’ve introduced something like a dozen fragrances over roughly three decades, and there’s been little if any dross among those offerings. L’Homme Accompli extends the tradition of L’Homme Sage and L’Homme de Coeur in presenting a comparatively sophisticated, understated, yet complex fragrance, apparently aimed at the man with discerning tastes and a nose for quality. While L’Homme Sage is a spicy woody oriental and L’Homme de Coeur is a masculine iris that makes Dior Homme look positively crass by comparison, L’Homme Accompli is a clean, suave leather scent that can stand without shame alongside Tom Ford’s Tuscan Leather and Helmut Lang’s Cuiron.

After the briefest citrus flourish of an opening, L’Homme Accompli moves directly into its central leather accord, which is relatively dry, crisp, and transparent. This is not the plush leather of Chanel’s Cuir de Russie, the animalic leather of Montale’s Aoud Cuir d’Arabie, or the dense, fruity leather of Knize Ten. Nor is it the kind of smoky, tarry leather Andy Tauer gives us in Lonestar Memories. I come back to Lang’s Cuiron and Byredo’s recent La Botte, with their clear, clean leather accords, as analogs. L’Homme Accompli’s leather shows signs of birch tar, but also some violet leaf, vetiver, and cedar. The overall transparency and the use of violet leaf and vetiver draw a distant parallel to Heeley’s delightful Cuir Pleine Fleur, but L’Homme Accompli is much more of a conventional, straightforward leather composition, modern not in its novelty of structure but in its lightness and clarity of texture. L’Homme Accompli is largely linear in its development, with moderate power and projection over a period of several hours. Those seeking a leather powerhouse will have to look elsewhere, but KL’Homme Accompli is perfectly balanced for daily wear. The drydown, when it arrives, consists largely of cedar and vetiver, and feels smooth and natural. All told, an attractive, eminently wearable scent that ought to make plenty of friends among those who enjoy leather fragrances.
19th August, 2017

Oud by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

This uses the same saffron as L'Agent Provocateur, which can be fun. They're similar enough to be confusing during moments when the saffron is strongest, but the general feeling of the opening of L'Agent Provocateur is better for me, with its rose notes. I don't think there's much oud in this, but what there is doesn't work as well with the saffron.

The base is the scratchy synthetic ambery woods I dislike, and it will not wash off.
19th August, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Oyédo by Diptyque

An orangey opening mixed with a touch of lemon, a bit sweetened and not very bright, more like a lemon curd, is at the beginning of the top notes.

Son this darkens a bit, with a herbal tone, mainly thyme, appearing in the middle phase. Then a crisp aroma of a metallic fizziness is added in, which is quite an unusual note that gives this composition a rather unique touch.

This is followed by a woodsy development that makes an attempt at a sandalwood impression - the latter is not particularly successful.

I get moderate sillage sillage, very good projection and nine hours on longevity on my skin.

A spring scent with quite an original touch, wearable also on cooler summer days, which is marred by heart and base notes that are overly synthetic and at times too forced. Overall not bad due to an original approach, but short of being truly convincing. 2.75/5.
19th August, 2017

Mélodie de L'Amour by Parfums Dusita

Big, in-your-face sweet white floral bomb, which slowly morphs into…petrol, with an underlying faint plastic note, followed by a very heavy, almost rotting fruit sort of smell (sweet and sour and dank) with a soft hint of the jasmine and a smidge of something metallic. There’s quite a lot going on with this actually. But the petrol note just seemed to take over on me, and that’s where it stayed, and while I actually don’t mind the smell of petrol, I don’t want to wear it as a perfume. Longevity, on me at least, is poor – this had pretty much vanished after two hours. I would love to see what this is like on someone else though – the notes are so lovely, but on me, it just doesn’t work. I'm giving it a neutral though, because it has been an interesting ride seeing how it has evolved.
19th August, 2017

Jicky by Guerlain

This makes me think of Heritage, which I absolutely adore, except in this I find the lavender much more pronounced. It’s also quite herby. I totally get the sophisticated, dapper old man vibe – complete with natty waistcoat, discreet but interesting bow tie, and immaculately coiffed hair. There’s something deliciously cool about this – I could just imagine spritzing this in the heat of summer, after a refreshing dip in the pool or a nice cool shower. I asked my husband to have a sniff of this, and he said that it makes him think of Morocco, because of the spices. I like this, a lot, but not as much as Shalimar.
19th August, 2017

Reflection Man by Amouage

A nice floral musky fragrance for a formal occasion IMO. It is high quality and it is long lasting and projects well for up to 4 hours with my experience. For the price I would give it one less star. So 4 out of 5. It's just missing that little something to push it into 5 star range. Overall a winner but try before you buy. Enjoy!
18th August, 2017

Aqua Universalis by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Not terrible, fine even, but on the boring side, fresh and summery. The listed note of musky woods sounds right, something to hang the citrus on, but uninspiring, maybe even slightly cloying.
18th August, 2017

Genghis Khan by Marc de la Morandiere

Stardate 20170818:

Reformulated EDP version in the old style bottle:

I do not know how different this is from the vintage but AFAIK the EDP in old style bottle is pretty close to original.

I sought this one out cause it is liked by many and is hyped. I must say this is one of the bigger disappointments I have had in this hobby.
Starts out with spices but then a discordant sour note emerges and destroys it. After a while the sourness subsides giving way to spices,patch and some sweet amber.
All in all a pretty average fragrance. Definitely not worth the price.
Neutral to Thumbs down.
18th August, 2017
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R by Révillon

Stardate 20170818:

A good cheapie. It has everything - citrus, leather, oriental, powder. Not easy to pull off but R does it. It knows how to balance them all.
Colin Maillard review is how I feel about it.
18th August, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Polo Modern Reserve by Ralph Lauren

The freshish, slightly ozonic opening soon takes on a slightly green undertone; the latter being undelined by a slightly juniper-berry boozy characteristic.

The drydown turns a bit sweetish-spicy with cardamom and a nonspecific woodsy tilt, and at a later stage a very soft patchouli develops that lasts right until the end.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and nine hours of longevity on my skin.

Less impressive than the original Polo, more generic but with a good performance - overall this is not bad but does not make the cut to achieve a positive score. 2.75/5.
18th August, 2017

Tsar by Van Cleef & Arpels

Tsar is an honest, good fougere, the likes of which are disappearing one by one these days. There's the traditional bergamot-lavender-oakmoss structure, but Tsar distinguishes itself with an array of fresh, green notes that are slightly grassy-coniferous than herbal. The bright, vivid opening of bergamot and lavender, tinged with neroli, leads to an aromatic phase that persists over a few hours. It is fresh, delightfully reminiscent of soap, yet retains a surprising crisp dryness. The oakmoss is discernible, though somewhat toned down, and together with patchouli and woods comprise an abstract accord that concludes the final transformation, where the fresh green aspects are still retained. It seems to have very little leathery aspect, if any. Tsar has an appreciable duration of about seven hours and a persistent gentlemanly sillage.

Tsar's neighbours could be Jazz (less green, more abstract and complex), Duc de Vervins (less fresh, more leathery) and Esencia (more woody and coniferous). Tsar could be a classic white shirt fragrance, though personally its charms are best experienced at leisure. I tend to think of Tsar as uplifting, uncomplicated, handsome, authentic, wholesome, more traditional than conservative, and a wardrobe staple for the discerning noses.

4/5
17th August, 2017

Superstitious by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Genre: Floral

I’ve taken my time reviewing Superstitious. It’s a big, ambitious fragrance by a prodigiously talented nose, and I’ve felt the need to wear it several times over a period of weeks in order to acquaint myself with it sufficiently for an accurate description and a fair assessment. In overall style, Superstitious is a great, big aldehydic floral composition, the likes of which has not been done often since the 1970s or 1980s – maybe even the 1950s. It opens with a powerful blast of aldehydes, which resemble nothing so much as hairspray. These are quickly followed by an intense peach note. Next up are a potent rose and jasmine, and the four elements persist and combine in an angular, yet rich fruity/aldehydic floral accord of tremendous power and persistence. This central floral accord has underpinnings of vetiver, patchouli, and cinnamon, which together add a spicy-woody depth to the overall olfactory profile. The emphasis here is on "angular." If peach, aldehydes, rose, and jasmine have you thinking of Chanel No. 5, you're on the wrong track. The aldehydes Ropion employs here are not the soft, fuzzy variety. They have instead a crisp, effervescent olfactory texture, more akin to champagne bubbles than to peach fuzz.

While unmistakably modern in its daring overdose of snappy aldehydes, Superstitious can also feel decidedly retro in its sheer heft. It has the presence of a 1980s classic such as Knowing or Beautiful, and a structure, with its balanced blend of synthetics and naturals, that is classicizing in Ropion’s best manner. There’s an overall edginess to the composition, however, that keeps Superstitious from feeling dated.

All that said, Superstitious is a fragrance I can admire more than love. Partially, I have a hard time with how darn intrusive the stuff is. It practically enters the room moments before I do, and lingers a good ten minutes once I’ve left. There’s also something chemically abrasive to my nose about the drydown that I just can’t quite abide by, no matter how I try. Oh, and did I mention that Superstitious is powerful? This fragrance, in eau de parfum concentration, is every bit the equal of Giorgio, Poison, Opium, or Samsara, and I’ve yet to manage applying it lightly enough for an effect that reads less than a 9 on the Richter scale. I expect that many will love this scent, and that just as many will loathe it. Hey, at least it isn’t boring.
17th August, 2017

Deseo for Men by Jennifer Lopez

Like a chipped stone tool,
Fruity, 'baccy, synthy, fresh,
Thoroughly disco.
17th August, 2017

Cabaret Homme by Grès

Stardate 20170817:

If you ever wanted a perfume equivalent of video clip that goes through masculines of late 20th century, look no further.
It has all Drakkar Noir, Cool Water, PRPH , Rive Gauche PH among others.
You get them at different phases of development. I have no idea why it was discontinued as it is bound to have something that pleases you.
Oh well. Get it while it is still available for cheap.
17th August, 2017

Prada Olfactories : Miracle of the Rose by Prada

Stardate 20170817:

A rose is great floral. It is a bit too sweet and it needs to be tempered with something that is earthy. Traditionally it has been Oud, Patchouly, spices.
This is a modern take on rose centric fragrance and the main counterbalance is provided by a plummy tobacco accord. The tobacco accord is very similar to Tom Ford's Tobacco Oud.
Development could be better but that is too much to expect these days.
All in all a good fragrance.
17th August, 2017

Cuir X by La Parfumerie Moderne

Stardate 20170817:

A good modern leather. A leather that smells like real leather. Nothing like BelAmi or K10.
It has similarities to Cuir Ottoman but is less oriental. In later phases it reminds me of Maxims but is much better than Maxims (which I think is over hyped)
The Saffron and Vanilla/Tonka rounds it out well.
A great blended fragrance. A rarity these days
17th August, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

A*Men Ultra Zest by Thierry Mugler

It was a bit surprising to see a flanker of the rather heavy, sweet and intense A*Men promising an ultra-zesty version. Imagine YSL Opium announcing that they will release a flanker called Opium Eau d'Orange Verte. Still, the top notes of Ultra Zest do the name some justice: an orangey-and-mandarin citrus opening, with touches of ginger and a minty freshness rounding it off. Not a revolutionary set of top notes, but well made in the TM tradition.

The drydown looses the freshness of the opening notes after a while and replaces it with a sweeter mix of a spicy cinnamon with a soft patchouli. In the base the trademark TM vanilla kicks in and ensures that we end up in the well-known A*Men comfort zone of sweet warmth.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and six hours of longevity, with the last couple of hours being very close to my skin.

As initially mentioned, the conceptual inconsistency between the original and this spring flanker are not easy to reconcile. TM resolved this conundrum by splitting it into two distinct phases: the zesty start - a bit enhanced with some A*Men intensity that unfortunately results in some attenuation of the zesty component that belies its name - and a second phase more like the original A*Men in character.

Overall, it is neither fish nor flesh, but still, if it was not for the disappointing performance it might just have made a positive score. 2.75/5.
17th August, 2017

Spicebomb Extreme by Viktor & Rolf

Extremism in
Defense of beauty is so
Spice. Wood. Fig. Saffron.
17th August, 2017

masculin Pluriel by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Genre: Fougère

Masculin Pluriel is a straightforward lavender-heavy fougère composition that dries down to a blend of patchouli and clean musk. There’s nothing complex or adventurous here, but there’s nothing to offend, either, and the lavender smells of quality. Still, I don’t find anything in Masculin Pluriel that would make me abandon, say, Caron pour un Homme or Vero Kern’s Kiki when I’m in the mood for lavender. Then of course, for a really interesting lavender, there's always Antonio Gardoni's remarkable MEM. But that's another, much longer, review...
17th August, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Essences Insensées 2016 (Rose) by Diptyque

This is a rose fragrance from beginning to emended through and through. It opens with a gorgeous centifolia aroma, a rose in full bloom, intense, with just a delightful modicum of natural sweetness. Delicious.

Whilst this is indubitably a soliflore composition, there is still some development occurring with time. The rose becomes a bit lighter, and whiffs of the leaves and the wood of the stems shine through, although this remains a rose blossom creation at heart.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

A delightful rose scent for day and nighttime in spring, composed of high-quality ingredients executed well. Whilst a tad linear and lacking vivaciousness and depth at times, it is still a lovely gift for rose lovers. 3.5/5.
16th August, 2017

Oud Rouge Intense by Fragrance Du Bois

Okay, it smells a bit like Creed's Royal Oud. But it smells deeper and better. It feels less synthetic and more natural for sure. Oud is not prominent, it's more like a musky, wooden, peppery, patchouli fragrance. Oud may contribute to the depth, though, and the oud is well balanced and not of the sharp kind. Rather masculine I would say. I like it.
16th August, 2017

Sahraa Oud by Fragrance Du Bois

This feels like an amber focused fragrance with soft florals and perhaps some balsamic or incense elements with a round oud in the base. The oud is soft like in the other fragrances of the line, no offensive oud here. Unisex
16th August, 2017

Immortal Beloved by YS Uzac

This smells like a boozy sweet eggy pudding when it goes on. I await developments...
It's bread and butter pudding! This may not sound like a fine fragrance note but it's delicious. It's not sugary sweet and has a big round booze and woods feeling to it. Good for an evening scent, and not like anything I can think of offhand, but also not in any way odd or edgy. It's very comfortable, and I'd imagine is great in winter.
As it progresses it loses the sweetness and is a dry wood with something of an old book lined study about it.
15th August, 2017
JaimeB Show all reviews
United States

Patchouli Intense / Patchouli Homme by Nicolaï

I received a 15 ml. travel size of Patchouli Intense as an extra when I purchased a another 100 ml. Nicolaï. It is a bit strange, but in my opinion, wonderful blend. The ingredients seem to work both with and against each other in a curious development. As soon as the top notes begin to fade and the bay rum note kicks in this transformation begins. This is not the bay leaf that goes into soups and stews, but a much sharper, somewhat camphor-like note usually only found in Bay Rum colognes. In a sense, it's the monkey wrench in the mix, but it also provides a crucial bridge into the dry-down along with the soon-to-follow cinnamon and patchouli. When incense and vanilla make their appearance, the whole show is on the road. The bay oil retains its linch-pin position to the end, but as the top notes fade further away, it sets up a new and equally pleasing impression with the base notes.

Some people my find this a stretch, but I think any fragrance fan can appreciate the artistry and bold stroke that it represents. The more Nicolaï creations I get to know, the more my admiration for the artistry of this house grows. I've visited their Rue de Richelieu store on two different trips to Paris, and their personnel are very kind, knowledgeable, and welcoming. Rumor has it the basement there is the location of their laboratory. Intriguing... As always, it's an advantage to speak French if you can...
15th August, 2017

Baccarat Rouge 540 by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

I do not really enjoy wearing this one. There something interesting in the smell that keeps me from giving it a thumbs down. I imagine I might like the smell coming from someone else. On me, it's too much, and not pleasant. It's sort of a slightly-burnt caramel smell, with something such as the listed balsam fir note mixed in.
15th August, 2017
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