Perfume Reviews

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Total Reviews: 139094
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Halloween in New Orleans by Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab

The composition emanates the scent of the Mississippi at night, initially with the aroma of sweetish bush leaves in the air. Not without an evocative quality.

The development continues with by adding in olive and herbal mossy tones, with the latter being dominant in the drydown.

The base is less interesting and much closer to my skin, with he main added note being that of a tonka impression, which is, however, never overwhelming or cloying.

The sillage is moderate, the projection good, and the longevity about six hours.

Overall the concept is quite original, but the implementation is all right but nothing extraordinary. Nice but nothing too special. 2.75/5
24th October, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Un Air de Bretagne by L'Artisan Parfumeur

The opening is laden with neroli, but the true nature of this product soon emerges: this is a maritime creation. On me it is not a loud and intensive mix, but more a discrete and quieter affair, more discreet and hidden tab loud and roaring. Interestingly, is is not very crisp and refreshing, but has a very restrainedly sweetish undertone at times.

A few nuances develop; hints of algae and whiffs of driftwood, and a rather synthetic attempt of ambergris cone and go.

On me the performance is not exciting: soft sillage, good projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.

Whilst this summery maritime scent is more of a quiet one, it is not without it merit in this genre. Overall, however, is lacks the richness, texture and development that would make it an impressive creation. Still, pleasant and agreeable. 2.75/5.
24th October, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Bucoliques de Provence by L'Artisan Parfumeur

The strong opening blast is lavender-centric; an intense, herbal and earthy lavender of bucolic sensuality and texture indeed. In the drydown iris is added, but the other core component of the heart notes is an interesting leather impression, not very new, like a nicely aged leather of well-worn handbag. I do not get a separate base note phase of note.

The sillage is moderate, the projection very good and the longevity seven hours on my skin after lavish application.

A lovely scent for lavender lovers, not particularly creative but crafted solidly. 3.25/5
24th October, 2017
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rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Byzance by Rochas

Review of the EdP from a bottle purchased about 25 years ago:
The opening blast is delicious: an orangey opening blast that is laden with aldehydes, but that is very soon pleasantly complimented by an emerging muguet of impressive quality.

In the drydown the metamorphosis to a pure floral composition is complete: jasmine and a somewhat faint rose are detected, but it is especially the dyad of tuberose and, more prominently, a rich ylang-ylang that is the centre piece of the heart notes. The ylang-ylang mixes with the muguet very nicely, and the sweetness resulting from this floral merger is never too intense or cloying.

In the base I mainly get added vanilla with white musks and a nonspecific woodsy undertone.

The sillage is soft, the projection very good and the longevity seven hours on my skin.

A lovely blend for cooler spring days, that is characterised by the presence of a pleasant powdery undercurrent, which give the while and elegant and mature touch. The quality if the ingredients is very good, and whilst the performance is not exact stellar and the base is rather nondescript and the least exciting part, overall it is quite an agreeable and well-crafted scent. 3.25/5.
24th October, 2017

Back to Black by By Kilian

If rubber and tea
Weren't honey and tobacco
You'd be back to Black.
24th October, 2017

Emporio Armani Stronger With You by Giorgio Armani

Typical over priced product IMO. For a EDT this is STRONG which lends to my dislike of this juice. I don't mind strong scents but it was too much. Too sweet and too cheap smelling. Overall avoid
24th October, 2017

Voyage d'Hermes Parfum by Hermès

Cool warm musk mint pine
Shouldn't be so damned tasty
And yet here we are.
24th October, 2017

Yvresse / Champagne by Yves Saint Laurent

This review is for the reformulated Yvresse from the "La Collection", in the chubby cube bottle.

Well, since it's impossible to not compare this to the fabulous original formula, here goes my dissection of this monster:

*Triple the Litchi
*Halve the Stone Fruits & Violet
*Remove Coconut, Amber, and Woods

This reform is so sweet it actually makes me queasy. It isn't even as good as the Champagne dupe "perfume oil" I bought in Mexico a decade ago. I would never wear this even if I wasn't closely acquainted with the original. Maybe if it was layered with a woody, nutty, amber base it would improve. But, why bother?
23rd October, 2017

Brussels Sprouted by Smell Bent

I agree with rogalal: "'s actually a very nice patchouli with lots of interesting things happening."

This reminds me a bit of Smell Bent's Green Patchouli: this one, though, seems a bit darker and blurrier.

Overall, a very pleasant scent. Projection could be stronger.

I like it.
23rd October, 2017

The Vintage Cities: Rome 1963 by 4160 Tuesdays

Stardate 20171022:

I am not sure i am smelling same things as others here.
I get no chocolate or leather.
All I get is Neroli type cologne with musk and some tobacco.
Nice construction and not much development (uncommon for 4160).
23rd October, 2017

Sex Goddess by 4160 Tuesdays

Stardate 20171022:

Tocade with tart berries.

The candied berries and plum adds a nice sour candy accord to the rose+vanilla (Tocade) accord.
The development is minimal but the effect is good
23rd October, 2017
Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Explosions d’Emotions : Amour Nocturne by L'Artisan Parfumeur

A decidedly unpleasant olfactory experience. My teeth hurt.
22nd October, 2017
Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Bois d'Iris by Van Cleef & Arpels

Smooth and cold. Imagine Bvlgari Black and L'Instant de Guerlain for women had a baby. The beginning is all about rubber and woods, and then it calms down to Iris and ambergris with a bit of cedar. There's also a bit of pepper, to my nose. Completely unisex. A gentle cool weather fragrance with a rich temperament and a classy vibe.
22nd October, 2017
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Altrove by Acqua dell'Elba

Just tested Essenza di Un'isola Acqua from this italian "house" and I have to say this ranks right up with the 2/3 best aquatics tested by me so far on skin. Perfect balance between "salty" and "creamy/soapy citric" with an amazing green balsamic vibe (and soft breezy floral nuances). Musky, softly musky and salty balmy musky. Really a dreamy and summery scent like a sort of aquatic Must the Cartier Pour Homme's little relative from the southern Mediterranean lands. This juice smells like a never ending bath up in a terrace's pool in front of the sea (the sea iodine under the nose). I smell "minty" myrtle and pine, perfectly complementing salt, citrus, seaweeds and floral/ozonic elements. The aroma of a "bright" june-sunset while waiting the upcoming summer there in the little island (the heart filled with joy and optimism). A juice which tenaciously I recommend to all the ozonics-freaks of this wonderful world.
22nd October, 2017

Eau des Missions by Le Couvent des Minimes

This is the Vanilla to spray when you want to smell like a regal baked cake - not a childish one.

I cannot understand how this delight flew under my radar for so long. In fact, I wonder if I assumed that the price-point was a predictor of quality. If that is the case, I am a foolish woman indeed.

If it were not for a dear friend who adores me as much as I adore her, I'd never have the funds NOW to afford this discontinued gem, as it is now sold for a terribly high price once people realized its value.

The scent is reminiscent of Mona di Orio's Vanille, but on the sweeter side. It sits proudly, bearing itself as much more than one might expect coming from such a sad sprayer. And I mean that - the sprayer made me feel sad - it's appearance is that of an old plastic hair-spray pump. It's ugly and while I KNOW these are essentially GOOD sprayers, it doesn't make for a good presentation. It certainly is awkward against the vintage-looking label. None-the-less, it is useful, and you only need a few pumps to get good coverage.

The use of Myrrh is what makes this less child-like and more regal - the combination keeps the vanilla from becoming too damn happy, and really, what woman in her late 30's and over wants that? Our beauty is discovered only in the trials and heartaches we bear and in the class in which we bear them. Too much sweetness grates against the nerves. The dose of Myrrh is an excellent addition for the true beauty here.

One final note: enjoy this as a layer underneath whatever you would like to add a vanilla note - it is truly a lovely experience for yourself and others around you.
22nd October, 2017

Grey Vetiver by Tom Ford

I can't tell you why
Buttered citrus vetiver
Is grey, but it is.
22nd October, 2017

Ambre by Réminiscence

This is my third Reminiscence fragrance and I’ve got to say I’m fast becoming a fan of theirs. It took me a couple of goes before I really got this, because for some reason I was expecting it to be a bit spicier. I was quite startled at how sweet this seemed when it first went on, but it settled quickly. It’s quite lovely; it feels warm and soft and so very comforting. I don’t get much of the clove at all in this, but I do get a lot of powder. Longevity is great – I get a good seven to eight hours out of this.
22nd October, 2017

Paris*LA by A Lab on Fire

Looking at the notes for this, I was a tad surprised. I’ve not come across a coca cola note in perfume before, and I was curious to try it. Straight up I get the lime and the ginger, bright and zingy and fresh. After a few minutes, that settles and I get soft wafts of thyme and, yes, the macarons, which is where I’m guessing is where the almondy note is coming from. After an hour or so, I get the cola and musk. This is such an unusual combination, but it really works – I like it, a lot. I’ve sampled a few scents from A Lab on Fire, and I’ve got to say, I’m becoming a fan. I could easily go a full bottle of this.
22nd October, 2017

Inverno Russo by Areej le Doré

It's taken me a while longer than usual to write about INVERNO RUSSO. While it shares the same DNA as the amazing SIBERIAN MUSK, to pigeonhole it simply as a quieter, more floral rendition would be missing the mark.

The Siberian deer musk element has been toned down in here yet sports the same unmistakable velveteen signature albeit a touch more animalic, augmented as it were by the inclusion of synthetic civet. Someone thought it smells like 'butt', but I wouldn't go that far. It's definitely not skanky; to my nose it smells more like dried saliva on self-groomed felines and the few times I've worn it this animalic aspect harmonizes well with the white florals and the creamy-ambery base.

Sillage is adequate though I feel it doesn't project and envelope the wearer nearly as well as Siberian Musk.

The thing is it seems to wear a little differently every time I spritz some on my skin. On cool dry evenings my favourite aspect -the musky rose- hangs around longer, while on warmer humid days the florals are subdued and short-lived, the scent skipping right to the oriental base in as short a time as 2 hours. This is not a knock on the fragrance but a reality challenge especially if you happen to live in warmer climates and not in the frigid cold of a Russian winter.

21st October, 2017

La Petite Robe Noire - Ma Robe Pétales by Guerlain

Fresh, Floral & Fun.
Pistachio Dryer Sheets.*
Not bad on a guy.

* = from Jessica's brilliant description on NST
21st October, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Graham Cracker by Demeter Fragrance Library

The opening phase expresses the cracker's aroma very nicely, with the wheat-based aroma being achieved quite convincingly and is blending in well with the cinnamon, which is the other core note.

Further into the drydown vanilla rises as the overall impression becomes sweeter, and a honeyed undertone is added on gradually. The wheat-notes becomes less prominent with time; and towards the end I mainly get the vanilla-honey duo, which is fading away very slowly.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a very impressive eleven hours of longevity on my skin.

Whilst this wintery scent is probably a bit sweeter than the original Graham cracker towards the end, initially it hits the spot quite well, and the performance is very good. Quite artificial-synthetic but tolerably so. 3/5.
21st October, 2017

Haitian Vetiver by Ermenegildo Zegna

Haitian Vetiver is bright, fresh and uplifting, quite similar to Tom Ford's Grey Vetiver but a bit greener and a tad woodier. The principal accord is the bergamot-neroli-vetiver that lasts a long time before joining a whispering iris. The vetiver note bright, clean, sharp and not at all rooty or earthy. Sillage and duration are around average, though not as good as the Tom Ford; however there is a greater focus on vetiver and it is more refined and elegant.

Overall a nice, fresh, clean vetiver that I cannot get terribly excited about. The dry down is somewhat subdued and a little boring.

21st October, 2017

Borneo 1834 by Serge Lutens

A Patchouli between Coromandel and PG L'Ombre Fauve with a Fumerie Turque smokiness.
The overall feel has me much like FT feeling sepia non bright tone. Has the Chocolate of Coromandel and none of the Pastry. Dry Tobacco with a background of vague sweetness in the canvas. It captures a whisper of the animalic lactose sweatiness of L'Ombre Fauve with a slightly more complex finish. The glittery gold bits of Coromandel are absent ,however the Cacao puts this into the Gourmand. A fave of the Lutens for me, however the the other two fulfill my needs for this type of Patchouli.
20th October, 2017 (last edited: 21st October, 2017)

Les Déserts d'Orient - Encens Mythique d'Orient by Guerlain

Why am I just finding out about this. I love it. I have been looking for a fragrance that will replace my Parure Extrait. EMdO starts out in the same musty plummy way even though I can’t see the notes listed as being the same.
I wish I had discovered this one sooner.
20th October, 2017

Cuir Cannage by Christian Dior

An extremely well done floral leather, in the same vein of Knize Ten and Cuir de Russie. Lacks the powerful petroleum-like accord of the former, and the aldehydes and the ultra-chic sophistication of the latter. The leather is that of handbags and fine leather shoes, and the floral blend has a hint of rose. There is a nice touch of iris, not powdery, balancing the leather. It is very refined, but perhaps not as much as the Chanel. I see Cuir Cannage as an improvement on current Cuir de Russie in terms of volume, which is too thin. However, it is also most stereotyped of the lot, and at times boring. Knize Ten (or Golden Edition) is more engaging, especially if one likes the bold aspects. Sillage is low key and duration is okayish. In this family my easy favourite is actually Cuir Mauresque that adds a balsamic twist to this plot to make things a lot more engaging, and is also more potent than any of these.

Cuir Cannage came out in 2014, interestingly the same year as Hermes released Cuir d'Ange. The two are very different, with only leather being the common thread. Cuir d'Ange is much lighter, with heliotrope, delicate, crisp and even more elegant but eventually too fleeting. I make this comparison because they can be like the leather fragrance for day (Cuir d'Ange) and the leather fragrance in the evening (Cuir Cannage). Ignoring sillage and duration, Cuir d'Ange is also more lovely.

20th October, 2017

Comme des Garçons 2 Man by Comme des Garçons

Then Smoke cooed to Wax,
In lowest Barry White tones,
"Can only be 2."
20th October, 2017

Comme des Garçons 2 by Comme des Garçons

Cherry incense rose.
Spicy waxy floral mess.
20th October, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Hot Toddy by Demeter Fragrance Library

From the first monents of the opening blast on this is quite a good rendering of a Hot Toddy cocktail. The boozy rum note is quite nicely done, as the is the cinnamon as a matter of fact. The cinnamon blends in nicely with the booziness, and at times a glimpse of lemony freshness is also present.

Further into the drydown, a spicy undertone emerges that takes on characteristics of nutmeg at times. Otherwise the development does not go much further on me, and this creation's glowing warmth is fading out very slowly at the end.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a splendid twelve hours of longevity on my skin.

A pleasant winter warmer, quite synthetic but as an attempt to create an olfactory equivalent to the drink this concept is crafted well. Combined with the excellent performance a positive score is warranted. 3.25/5
20th October, 2017

Tan-Tan by Coquillete Paris

A courageous idea of aromatic failure. Coquillette Paris Tan-Tan is (for long but thankfully not tout court ) another post-modern perfumed "anti-perfume". Dusty, dissonant, strident, leafy, chemical, electrically crazy. Opening (the less creepy part) is by soon intensely floral and prickly-herbal before to become plastically off-putting, sticky and synthetically dusty. The plastic/xerox toner-like smell a la CdG Odeur 71/Odeur 53 is evident, sour-green, acid and vaguely resinous in its floral background. I smell sticky white lymph, coniferous resins, petroleous rubber, dry florals and "a discount kind of leather" (milky/resinous). I detect several incensey/dusty un-liturgical aromatic facets (cold and impersonal) as well, combined with shopper bag-plastic, "liquid woods" (metallic and dry) and rubbed herbs, like smelling on skin a sort of watered down plastic/herbal/floral Durbano Black Tourmaline with figgy/leathery/piney disturbing nuances and with no trace of elegy.
P.S: dry down affords a significant improvement since the juice reduces its rubbery/leafy/dusty facets becoming a more properly leather-floral (almost fur-like) accord with classic woody-leathery-musky-floral elements.
19th October, 2017

L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme Extrême / Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

L'Instant pour Gourmet
At the crossroad of senses,
19th October, 2017