Fragrance Reviews from October 2005

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    dpark's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Opus 1870 by Penhaligon's

    An utterly sublime scent, a light peppery note gives way to a rich oriental background. This should not be missed!!!!

    27th October, 2005

    Dry_Martini's avatar

    Spain Spain

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    Blend 30 by Dunhill

    the best definition for me blend 30=Patou Pour Homme Green"

    27th October, 2005

    dududa's avatar



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    Adidas Dynamic / Dynamic Pulse by Adidas

    Bearing in mind that this is a cheap perfume........it's actually quite ok considering the scent itself......though it doesn't have enough longevity.........still the best from adidas I have tried

    27th October, 2005

    dududa's avatar



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    Adidas Game Spirit by Adidas

    Sucks big time......yuck..can't believe I bought it....... smelles very cheap........wears off in no time.......

    If you go for an adidas fume........go for "Dynamic Pulse".....otherwise..........just don't buy cheap stuff....

    I learned a lesson..... the big brands really are better

    27th October, 2005

    dududa's avatar



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    Dior Homme by Christian Dior

    I like this scent a lot..... It has some candy-note..kinda like Thierry Muggler's scent...but not too exxagerated....

    All in all a sweet scent....smells nice right away..unlike scents that have to evovle over some time before smelling decent...

    The smell itself isn't too powerful.....and therefore not causing me headache.......which a lot of scents do (on me at least)

    At the moment this is my facvourite scent...

    27th October, 2005

    dududa's avatar



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    Gaultier² by Jean Paul Gaultier

    Mmmm...yummie...........very sweet....but not in a sickening way.........very original scent.....like it a lot......and I am sure the girls will too......on me..........and on themselves..... MMM ;)

    27th October, 2005

    Lyman's avatar



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    Astor by Geo F Trumper

    Astor starts out extremely--EXTREMELY--floral, and I questioned, "Is this even a cologne? Surely this is unisex, or more likely perfume." But it soon tones down to its heart notes, and when it does it becomes a lovely, clean, fresh scent. To be truthful, even after it tones down it still remains a "pretty" cologne, not at all a rough, rugged fragrance. But if your taste is for a scent that's elegant and refined, rather than a scent that's brawny, Astor is about the nicest I've ever come across.

    27th October, 2005

    Lyman's avatar



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    Opium pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

    Opium pour Homme makes me go weak in the knees. I take a deep whiff and my eyes practically cross in ecstasy. It's both spicy and sweet, and so long lasting. Smooth, but not "boring smooth." Very exotic and sensual. And there's something ... dense about it. Forgive my choice of words, "dense." Maybe a better way of putting it is that it has a tremendous integrity to it. It's formidable.

    27th October, 2005

    paloma54's avatar



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    Quadrille by Balenciaga

    Quadrille has a crisp, uncompromising elegance. There is nothing objectionable about it, in fact, it is very pleasant, but by itself, I always feel it is missing an element in the heart; perhaps it needs more floralcy. The immediate impression I usually have is of very crisp celery--pleasing, but not sufficient to make a whole meal! Quadrille makes a wonderful, wonderful basenote to be layered over by a light floral which on its own, might not be strong enough. I have never smelled the pure perfume, but maybe it has more floral richness than the edt or edp version in my possession.

    27th October, 2005

    paloma54's avatar



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    Chantilly by Dana

    Whatever it is that makes Chantilly unique and wonderful doesn't appear to show up in any of the basic notes as profiled in the H & R Fragrance Guide. The scent possesses much of the spiciness and sweetness of many oriental perfumes, but it also has an elegance lending it an air of refinement coupled with a very warm heart. So much of this scent is just so basically and fundamentally right where a perfume should be! I haven't tried the current version of Chantilly in the stores out of fear that the ingredients have been watered down, but rather am enjoying some vintage bottles which were purchased on ebay. They are magnificent!

    27th October, 2005

    paloma54's avatar



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    Cabriole by Elizabeth Arden

    For some reason, Cabriole (Elizabeth Arden 1977)smells so very very familiar to me, and I'm wondering if perhaps my mother may have had a bottle once. It is just absolutely gorgeous, and is what I'd call a really WOMANLY perfume, not old-ladyish, but like an elegant and voluptuous woman. It is a sweet floral, primarily rosey, but it opens with the tanginess of raspberry and galbanum. Soon afterward, you smell the opulent floralcy, but through a veil of honeyed other florals, including the faintest hint of carnation. The floral heart is well supported by the basenotes, which are powdery and strong enough to hold on to the heart without asserting themselves strongly. Once in awhile, the cedarwood contributes a slight ashiness to the powdery base, but this is always the tendency on my skin for any cedarwood. On most people, this ashiness doesn't seem to occur, so I'd go ahead and recommend Cabriole highly!

    27th October, 2005

    paloma54's avatar



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    Stephanotis by Floris

    Floris' Stephanotis smells exactly like a huge wedding bouquet! It is utterly divine!

    27th October, 2005

    paloma54's avatar



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    Gauloise by Molyneux

    I believe that Gauloise is possibly a mistake of packaging design. For those of us who find cigarette smoke obnoxious, the idea of a perfume resembling a cigarette package is not exactly an attractive concept, and I think that subconciously it hinders me from wearing this lovely perfume. Every time I spray it on, I'm impressed with its beauty and resolve to wear it more often. It really is a classically beautiful aldehydic floral, with a clarity which reminds me of the other Molyneux perfume I adore: Vivre!

    27th October, 2005

    paloma54's avatar



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    Alada by Myrurgia

    Alada begins with a fresh burst of lime followed by a warm fresh eau de cologne heart. The top and mid notes fade away leaving a somewhat musky and masculine type of drydown which, unfortunately, doesn't appeal to me much. This scent could be worn equally well by anyone who enjoys it, male or female. In fact, the bottle design is somewhat unisex in appearance.

    27th October, 2005

    paloma54's avatar



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    Diva by Ungaro

    Diva is an elegant chypre perfume redolent with rose, rose geranium, and patchouli. Although closely related to many of the other floral chypres of the late 70s and early 80s, it is rosier and less green than Coriandre, and less full of nuances than Paloma. To my nose, it lacks some of the complexity of Coriandre and Paloma, although I still prefer it to Eau du Soir and Maroc, which it also somewhat resembles. The bottle, with its elegant pleats, couldn't be lovelier!

    27th October, 2005

    paloma54's avatar



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    First by Van Cleef & Arpels

    First may be one of the very last great classic French perfumes! I discovered this in the early 90s thanks to a most kind and helpful saleswoman at the May Company in Cleveland, who suggested I try this. My first impression, as well as my everpresent reaction to First is that it smells "French", and "perfume-y".

    First opens with a rather brash and in your face topnote which is immediately backed up by a forthright medly of exuberant, elegant florals, which is tempered by a most pleasing combination of basenotes. It is one of my "desert island" fragrances, and never strikes a wrong note, or feels inappropriate. It gives me that "world in a bottle" feeling--nothing is left out that I could possibly wish to feel! It is elegant, tailored, warm, long-lasting, complicated, spicy, feminine, yet assertive

    27th October, 2005

    paloma54's avatar



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    Forest Lily by Avon

    Forest Lily smells like spring flowers in bloom, especially hyacinths. Although the scent is pretty, I'm not entirely in love with the way it dries down on my skin.

    27th October, 2005

    Stuffman's avatar

    United States United States

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    Ultraviolet Man by Paco Rabanne

    Overall, a fairly pleasant but anonymous scent. Its biggest shortcoming in my opinion is its synthetic nature. Its "technologically recreated" ambergris has nowhere near the depth and complexity of real ambergris. I guess if you haven't been spoiled by, say, Creed's ambergris, it would be fine- Just synthesizing ambrein will give you 95% of the character of real ambergris, but that 5% is what makes real ambergris special. The mint up front is nice, but fades too soon into this sort of nondescript sweetness. The "organic vetyver" (their words and spelling) must have somehow forgot to be added- unless "organic vetyver" just doesn't smell like anything. Likewise, the "moss crystals" (can anyone please tell me what a "moss crystal" is?) are barely noticable in the sea of sweetness. If you can get this for cheap, then it might not be bad for using when going to loud, drunken, college-town bars on weekends, but it's just too synthetic, sweet, and linear for my tastes.

    27th October, 2005

    Stuffman's avatar

    United States United States

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    Ferrari Passion by Ferrari

    By far, the best Ferrari-branded fragrance. I have been a fan of the Ferrari #1, but it is admittedly not a must-have fragrance, though I do find it quite suitable as my daily scent. The Ferrari Passion, on the other hand, is something I wasn't quite expecting.

    Ferrari Passion has very rich leather and wood notes, with subtle hints of a seemingly "dark" citrus. You can almost imagine yourself in a brand-new Ferrari 612, parked somewhere off the road deep in the forest-covered mountains on a crisp autumn day. With this cologne, one can seemingly put on a JCPenney suit and tie, Pay Less dress shoes, and step out of their 1992 Chrysler LeBaron into a party and be mistaken for a millionaire- the scent just exudes wealth and power.

    Part of the magic of this scent is how well the galbanum works with the wood and leather notes. The wood is a cypress and cedar mix, but comes across as being much more smooth and mellow because of the influence of the rich leather and mild tobacco leaves. The tobacco itself is hard to pick up, yet nonetheless influences the character of the scent. When I originally sampled this fragrance, I noticed there was a certain unexplainable fresh crispness to the scent, which I now realize to be ozone. This completes the "autumn day" character of the scent without making itself immediately apparent, unlike some ozone fragrances that can be quite obtrusive.

    Overall, this scent is very well rounded, and finally one that you don't have to be a Ferrari fanatic to buy (I bought the Ferrari #1 for that reason, but ended up liking it). The only downside to it is that for me (a typical poor college student), there are few occasions that I can wear this without feeling a bit pretentious because of the wealth it exudes.

    27th October, 2005

    Twitchly's avatar



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    Light Blue by Dolce & Gabbana

    After the lovely initial citrus notes, this fragrance turns to something like Kool-Aid on my skin. Plastic marzipan, maybe. Definitely unpleasant.

    27th October, 2005

    wicozani's avatar

    United States United States

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    Uomo? Moschino by Moschino

    That's a bit different from your typical Eau d'Cologne, eh Sir? What is it?
    I hadn't stumped my humble assistant with a scent in some time. Indeed, I just received a bottle of this and was wearing it for the first time.

    Uomo? Moschino opens with a slightly sweet, moderate herbal/floral/citrus accord with hints of spice and woods. The citrus notes disappear after about 30-60 minutes, the floral/herbal notes extending the scent into the spice and woods. It is very harmonius and should serve well and uniquely amidst the raft of other typical office scents (Bulgari PH, Lanvin L'Homme, any Kenzo, etc.). I guess it is quite typical of Italian scents, like Krizia Uomo and Biagiotti Uomo.

    Wicozani

    27th October, 2005

    Francois Blais's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Rouge Royal for Men by Marina de Bourbon

    I just got a bottle of this from my friend Martin.
    It reminds me of ST Dupont Signature; sweet woody ambery scent, with some spices and florals.
    Very nice!

    27th October, 2005

    dududa's avatar



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    DKNY Be Delicious Men by Donna Karan

    Smells awfully sour and kinda of like an apple (I guess that it's supposed to that...just watch the poster..and you will understand.....the bottle is meant to look like an apple)

    The drydown is kinda of ok though....but all in all a boring and bad scent....

    28th October, 2005

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    Eau Sauvage by Christian Dior


    My first bottle was a college graduation gift from an aunt who had just returned from Paris. Until Eau Sauvage, my idea of a fragrance was Old Spice After Shave. A whole new world opened up to me when I first smelled this one. When it was gone and I sought to replace it with another product, I soon came to realize that there was, at that time (and still today), very little that could challenge this ultra classic.

    It opens with one of the best citrus openings in masculine fragrancy. No kidding, this accord is pure beauty with an elegant and refined citrus, herb and petit grain combination. It doesn’t last long, but it lasts long enough to have had me coming back to it for forty years. The opening citrus is replaced by an excellent floral — the first modern masculine fragrance to have such a formula, Dior claims. These florals, too, are exquisite and with the woodnotes form a rich full accord that has excellent lasting power. The drydown provides a very soft, close to the skin musk and moss refinement. Considering that it is a citrus scent, I get quite good longevity from Eau Sauvage. I think when someone complains about the lack of longevity of this fragrance, they might be thinking primarily of the opening. It is true that the opening citrus isn’t long lasting, but that’s the nature citrus accords. I think that the floral / patchouli heart notes and the musky / mossy basenotes are often not given enough credit for being as beautiful as they are. This is a complete scent from its citrus beginning to its mossy conclusion — about four to six hours on my skin. What can I say? Eau Sauvage is superb — it is as desirable, elegant, and as current today as it was when I first wore it forty years ago. One of the really GREAT ones. (Edit of 06 January 2006 review.)

    28th October, 2005 (Last Edited: 27th July, 2009)

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    Joop! Homme by Joop!

    I had heard so many jeers and sneers at Joop! that I automatically dismissed it. Then I found a sample in a shipment of fragrances and, on a do-nothing day, I decided to try this one out for a good laugh. Well, the laugh was on me. This fragrance merits consideration. The opening blast is strong and obnoxious but it quickly settles down to a fresh top note of bergamot and cinnamon that is surprisingly likeable. From there Joop! develops to a rich, warm, sweet yet very masculine center—a powerful, linear balance of florals, sandalwood, patchouli, tonka and amber. This stage is tenacious, in fact, I don’t think it develops another stage.
    It lasts almost forever. It is an excessively sweet fragrance, and I usually don’t care for sweet but in this case, I find its warmth and depth tricks me into ignoring that characteristic. Of course, I wear this only in the winter and I would never spray this scent—it is so strong it should only be misted.

    28th October, 2005

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    L'Eau par Kenzo pour Homme by Kenzo

    L’Eau par Kenzo comes on with a gentle sweet / sharp citric opening featuring a beautifully refined and clear yuzu and a soft slightly minty green note. It is delicate but quite sweet—a sweetness that fooled me because of the fragrance’s lack of strong notes. The lightness of the fragrance can be misleading. Over spraying can lead to becoming Mr. Cologne Guy just as much as over spraying more notorious fragrances. The fragrance is well constructed: The water pepper provides a water note and there are ozonic notes—more ozonics than watery notes, I would say, and those ozonics are kept from the all-too-common synthetic ambiance. The green notes are too sweet and unsharp for my taste, I would rather have some of that inherent bitterness that comes from leaves and stems. Until a half hour after application, the notes project a slight feminine feel because of the extra sweetness IMO. The dry down is green / aquatic combined with white musk. The dry down, too, continues the soft ambiance and lasts longer on my skin than many white musk accords that I’ve worn. The longevity is good for a citrus fragrance. L’Eau par Kenzo is a tiny bit Zen; it is genteel and calming. It works for hot summer days, but don’t let its seeming mildness fool you: it can cloy if too much is sprayed. (Edit of 28 October 2005 review. Changed from a thumb's up.)

    28th October, 2005 (Last Edited: 31st October, 2009)

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    Nobile by Gucci


    Somehow this one had gone under my radar, and when, a few years ago, I saw it at Marshall’s for a reasonable price, I had no idea what I was buying, but I bought it for the name ‘Gucci.’ It opens up ‘perfumy,’ which is exactly what to expect from a 1988 fragrance. The opening is clean—clean and green—it is a remarkably pure accord for as complex as it is: sharply citrus and lavender with herbal accents, but the herbals aren’t the usual aromatic version; they are solid and centered. As it moves to the mid notes, it picks up a little more green and some florals to fill out the accord with a fuller note. The middle level also begins to add in the coniferous notes, which continues the clean green character. The base is the typical base of the 80’s—complex, deep and rich, with cedar, sandalwood, and moss predominating. Nobile is quite linear and that linearity offers those wonderful clean green vibrations in rich full deep green accords. There is a caveat with Nobile: It is very strong—there is real danger of becoming Mr. Cologne—misting is appropriate. I am very prejudiced about Gucci Nobile—to put it plainly, I think Gucci Nobile is one of the best designer fragrances around! (Edit of 18 January 2007 review.)

    28th October, 2005 (Last Edited: 27th July, 2009)

    Joshaugustt's avatar



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    Jean Louis Trintignant by Jean Louis Trintignant

    This is a WONDERFUL fragrance! It's very rare, hard to find, and very expensive, IF you can find it. But it's a warm, woody, powdery, slightly spicey scent with great staying power. It's not heavy but it's not light, either. It's simply a one of a kind, classy woody scent. It's really worth a try. Joshaugustt

    28th October, 2005

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    Magnetism by Escada

    If I had to describe Escada Magnetism in one word, I think I would say "spirited." To me, Magnetism resembles Sonia Rykiel to some extent. In fact, they're definitely close enough to be sisters, sorority sisters, that is. Magnetism opens very fruity, like sweetened berries, yet it has a little bitterness that softens and keeps the sweetness in check; or perhaps the fruity sweetness softens the bitterness. Either way, it works beautifully for me. There is a little leafy green, fresh-crushed leaf aroma that blends in with the florals and fruits; there's a little floral spice I pick up from the freesia; otherwise, it's hard for me to pick out too many individual notes, especially the florals. Freesia is usually recognizable to me as somewhat peppery, or spicy. I think I "almost" detect a little cumin-like note, much like I do in Dior's Dolce Vita, yet it is more subtle even than that. The fruits and florals lift me up and whisk me away to dreamland; the musk and woods provide the reality check that I need with this fragrance because it is, on opening, almost little girl-like, fun and carefree, and innocent. It would be easy to write it off early as "too young", when, in fact, it's for the young at heart. Were it not for the weighty base notes, I might not even take Magnetism seriously. The final result, however, is somewhat musky, a lovely well-rounded blend, softly sweet and slightly powdery, very much womanly, elegant, and perhaps a little sexy.

    I thought I would spray Escada Magnetism, sniff it, and dismiss it as yet another modern watery-fruit concoction. I was pleasantly surprised, however, to like it.

    28th October, 2005

    lefay's avatar



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    Alessandro Dell'Acqua by Alessandro Dell'Acqua

    I bought Alessandro Dell'Acqua based on the fragrance notes described above and elysium's review. I have to say that the top notes (on me) were so unpleasantly harsh, in a bug-spray kind of way, that I was ready to give the bottle away. After about 45 minutes or so the scent began to settle down into a somewhat soft floral with woody-spicy undertones -- fresh, like a modern scent, but complex in the style of the classics. The jury's still out, though, as I'm not sure the drydown is worth that first terrible hour or so.

    28th October, 2005

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