Perfume Reviews

Latest Perfume Reviews

Total Reviews: 138399

Sacred by Louis Cardin

Louis Cardin Sacred is all about sweet resins, musk and dusty vanilla. I detect a sort of rosey spiciness (saffron, cinnamon?) as background. Hints of pepper? The aroma is pretty common, faintly (mediocrely) structured but surely inebriating and pleasant. This juice is kind of vaguely powdered, slightly almondy, woody (a dusty "white" kind of woodiness) and definitely cinnamonic. Juices a la Farmacia SS Annunziata Chia or La Maison de la Vanille La Vanille Noir du Mexique jump vaguely on mind. Dry down is comforting and warm. This scent is excellent to be worn "intimately" for yourself (winter time at home on your coach) but not enough articulated to stand out in a Gala night at Palace.
26th September, 2017

Gabrielle by Chanel

I'm a big fan of the new Chanel, Gabrielle. I've worn it a bit, and I've also spent time with someone wearing it, and I liked it both ways. It smells like a typical Chanel to me, and I like the house style. It reminded me of Cristalle edt. It's fresh and playful. It smells like a day in Paris with nice weather.
26th September, 2017

Beige Eau de Parfum by Chanel

I scored a sample of Beige edp and I'm trying it for the first time. I'm giving it a thumbs up, it's fine, but, from memory, it's not as good as the discontinued edt. I was a big fan of the edt, though, and this is a different perfume with its own merits. The listed notes sound right.

The listed notes are quite different from the edt, which were aldehydes, hawthorn, freesia, and frangipani.

After being surprisingly different from the edt in the opening, as the edp develops, it does seem to largely merge with the essence of what the edt had been.
26th September, 2017
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No. 5 Eau Première by Chanel

No. 5 Champagne
Is the secret weapon of
Bond girl Jasmine Woods.
26th September, 2017

Basic Black by Bill Blass

A multi-ingredient, old-fashioned chypre. Deep. Moderately complex. Mine, is an older bottle. Some of the "sweeter" notes have worn down, so to speak. Earthy animalic. Musty floral. Notes that stand out the most for me: carnation, tuberose, jasmine, sandalwood, and amber.

Good evening fragrance. Cheap enough that one can be heavy-handed with spraying.
26th September, 2017
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A*Men Pure Tonka by Thierry Mugler

The label "Pure" with TM does not necessarily guarantee purity, and his holds true with this composition. Whilst the tonka is present pretty much right from the start, there is a herbal undertone present throughout the initial phase.

The tonka develops over time by becoming increasingly more toasted and less sweet - and whilst rich and intensive in the typical TM-A*Men-style, it manages to be never overly sickly sweet or intrusive. With time I get hints of cocoa too. The base adds a soft patchouli that provides some counterbalance to the heaviness of the core components.

I get strong sillage, truly excellent projection and gigantic longevity of fifteen hours in my skin.

This wintery scent lacks the creative brilliance of Pure Havane, but otherwise it constitutes a well-crafted execution of its concept as an A*Men flanker. 3.25/5. A*Men to that.
26th September, 2017

Private Collection - L'Ombre Fauve by Parfumerie Generale

This is a gorgeous combination of (as many have already noted) amber, patchouli, and musk. The furrily animalic portion of this which is evident in the scent's early stages smells incredibly sensual. To others it may smell like wet laundry left too long in the machine, to me it smells like all things warm and sharply mammalian. Unfortunately, I get less enthused about L'Ombre Fauve as time goes on and amber stands up and takes center stage. This is a matter of personal taste because I am an amber-phobe, but for those who are not and who love to smell like sexy, sweet, and slightly musty powder, you are in for a treat.
26th September, 2017

Onda Parfum Extrait by Vero Profumo

If Chanel's Cuir de Russie is the horse you rode in on, Onda is the musky undergrowth you had to stomp through beforehand and the tack room you end up in afterwards. Dirt, wild and dank vegetation, and redolent leather all combine to form one of the most unusual and daring scents I own. Onda is not only dark and loamy and vetiver-laden, but it is complex and strange, and includes notes I'm fairly sure I've never smelled before in perfume, e.g., mace. Most folks are going to find Onda a bit too 'ugly' or scary since it's even darker and more animalic than vintage Magie Noire. In fact, it does smell like something a druid might cook up in a clearing in the forest on All Hallow's Eve, or what I imagine the tannis root from Rosemary's Baby smelled like. And because I am a complete animal and pagan, I love it!
26th September, 2017

Viking by Creed

After spraying, I get a whiff of a medicinal, iodine-ish smell that fortunately doesn't last long. The opening settles down into a nice pepper and clove note that has a little too much peppermint along with it for my taste. Dries down to a pleasant spicy wood, but not distinctive enough to warrant a bottle purchase.
25th September, 2017

Crêpe de Chine by Long Lost Perfume

The original version in parfum concentration is heaven in a bottle. This is the silkiest of flowery green chypres with a decidedly vintage air. My bottle is ancient and to newer perfumistas, it probably smells that way too. I, however love its old-fashioned temperament. It is perhaps, the softest chypre I've ever smelled: green and creamy with an incredible base of patchouli and musk that goes on and on. It is the most round and dreamy and evenly balanced fragrance I own, but I can only wear it occasionally, since my own temperament is somewhat bent and spiky and with this on, I feel almost in disguise.
25th September, 2017

Bracken Woman by Amouage

I have to quit trying scents that contain narcissus and expecting to love them. There is just something about this note that overpowers every other in each perfume I've tried. And since I do not love narcissus, I do not enjoy Bracken. I think many others will love it though, and I might possibly, too, if the chamomile and leather and smoke played more of a role here. The sweetness of the berry note is also bothersome. Amouage scents rarely smell like something a young twenty-something should wear, but this one does.
25th September, 2017

New Sibet by Slumberhouse

One of the stranger scents I've had the pleasure of wearing. In a way, it reminds me quite a bit of Cuir Cannage. There are definite connections between the two and their overall texture seem similar, although New Sibet is even more odd and striking in its fuzzy ashiness. It fairly buzzes with a leathery iris and slightly animalic spices. Everything hums and practically radiates off the skin. It is slightly metallic, but not in a way that annoys or is cold. Instead it is a scent that feels heated and dusty, as if a soldering iron had been taken to it. Fascinating!
25th September, 2017

Égoïste Cologne Concentrée by Chanel

Stardate 20170925:

Good stuff. Sandalwood, spice and everything nice.
As the name suggests - more oomph than the plain ol' Egoiste.
Unfortunately, too pricey and not worth the premium over Egoiste.
25th September, 2017
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21 Bonaparte by Vicky Tiel

A run-of-the-mill floriental. It's fairly tame. Quite, even. The current is mild. Vanilla, gardenia, and tuberose do not really stand out. The patchouli and jasmine seem muffled. I'd call this a workplace scent.
25th September, 2017
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Olène by Diptyque

This is floral galore. Opening with a jasmin as the core component throughout, I get an interesting set of additional floral undertones. At times a crisper and nigh steely-bitter intensive indolic aroma, intermixed with notes narcissus and at times even touches of tuberose with hyacinth. Otherwise this is a fairly linear composition.

The performance is excellent, with moderate sillage, very good projection and a magnificent thirteen hours of longevity on my skin.

A nice floral for the jasmine-lover, never cloying or too sweet, with great performance. 3.25/5.
25th September, 2017

The Party in Manhattan by The Party

If this one lasted longer, say more than an hour and a half, I would buy it in a heartbeat. This is Mitsouko + cumin and/or Jubilation with some of the frankincense dialed down. It is a gorgeous rendering of a classic fruity chypre and I adore its opening stages and its animalic underbelly. Unfortunately, it is one of the most fleeting scents I've ever had the pleasure of not being able to smell, and this makes me very sad because it is VERY lovely. It is so vintage-y and funky and ephemeral that I find it fascinating and frustrating in equal measure.
24th September, 2017

Sballo by Bruno Acampora

This is another gorgeous and dense fragrance from the Acampora line, and by dense, I means DENSE. The hay and tobacco here are rich and thick and massively resinous, and I would love to smell it on someone else standing a few feet away. This dark chypre smells wondrously vintage, like something a glamorous brunette from the '30s or '40s would wear, and I would love to wear it myself if it didn't wear me. It goes on forever and its woodsy oak moss is stunning. It's simply too redolent and potent for me to wear without being overly conscious of it every second. If you love vintage scents that smell like you're standing in the middle of a hay field while wearing a deeply warm chypre with massive projection and duration, this is your baby.
24th September, 2017

Blue Grass by Elizabeth Arden

I've been wearing this since the late 70's, early 80's. Has it changed? Yes. Do I care? No. It is still one of my "go to" aldehydic perfumes. It comes on strong, for the top and middle notes. The base is sweet and mellow.

I like the lavender and lily, on top. The spices, carnation, and rose fill the middle. The base of Tonka, musk, benzoin, and cedar, are just right.

I am taken back in time, to more innocent times of my youth when I wear this. I'm old now -- I can get away with wearing this.
24th September, 2017

Apparition by Ungaro

Big blast of raspberry and sweet pepper. Followed by tons of rose. Ends with gentle patchouli, amber, and vanilla. Mimics an aldehydic perfume IMO. Long-lasting. Moderate sillage. Interesting bottle.
24th September, 2017

Puro by Nejma

Sweet. Woody. Green-spicy. Aromatic. Boozy. Rum, mint, and lime on top segue right into notes of cinnamon, vetiver, mahogany, and tobacco. Overall it smells like an aged, cask of spirits, on an autumn day.
24th September, 2017

The Hedonist by Cult of Scent

If Bulgari Black, Tuscan Leather and Dzing! had a threeway...
Birch tar and a coarse, dirty leather at the top, castoreum and jasmine in the heart, vanilla and sandalwood base.
24th September, 2017
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United Kingdom

Mango-Infused Pumpkin Chai Latte by Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab

A full-on opening blast hits me with an intensive onslaught of chai latte with a lovely cappuccino undertone, combined with an underlying pumpkin note with hints of ripe mango - gorgeous! Later on whiffs of saffron and coconut come and go, but the initial impression remains dominant throughout.

The performance is sensational, with very strong sillage, superb projection and an amazing fourteen hours of longevity on my skin.

This sillage bomb is admittedly not showing a lot of development after the wonderful opening, but the top quality of the natural ingredients more than compensates for that. A pick-me-up for Halloween. 3.5/5.
24th September, 2017
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Halloween in Brooklyn by Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab

This composition starts with m a herbal opening with dogwood being prominent; soon this merges with a fruity note, mainly ripe sweet cherry, and forms a gorgeous initial impression.

Alas, after the first thirty minutes, it collapses on my skin in spite of my lavish and generous application, but never fear: it re-emerges less fruity, with a nutty nutmeg note, combines with pine wood and a with flowery background, mainly a pleasant camelia.

And eventually it bursts open with a gorgeous balsamic eucalyptus, enough to transport any Koala perfumista into spheres of utter delight.

All this blends in beautifully, and the eventual performance is much better than the initial instability let me expect: moderate sillage, adequate projection and eight hours of total longevity. All move to Brooklyn please! 3.75/5
24th September, 2017

Eau Fraîche by Monsillage

Eau Fraiche by Monsillage is a very conventional citrus fragrance dominated by lemon-verbena, and on a vetiver base with a hint of sheer musk. There is only a bare hint of herbs that renders only the slightest abstraction. I detect absolutely zero lavender in this. In the first minute there is a disconcerting synthetic element that soon settles down and brings to fore the citrus. Thereafter it is nice but unremarkable, and fades away in about four to five hours (which is fair for a citrus). Sillage is initially lively, but soon close to skin.

While Eau Fraiche is nothing bad, it is too simplistic, too bare-bone and lacks the balance and abstraction of other traditional citrus such as Eau Sauvage, Blenheim Bouquet or Concentre d'Orange Verte. Too trivial and too forgettable. The negative rating is influenced by the initial jarring element, especially considering the price and the market segment it is aimed at.

2/5
24th September, 2017
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United Kingdom

Halloween in Los Angeles by Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab

Burning grass with sage

The opening combines a herbal grassy note with a well-executed overarching burning expression. The smoky burning note is beautifully done.

Overtime the herbal side moves gradually into the foreground, mainly sage with hints of basil.

The sillage is moderate, the projection good and the longevity is seven hours on my skin.

Very nice and quite unique; maybe al allusion to wildfires? 3.5/5
23rd September, 2017
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United Kingdom

Halloween in San Francisco by Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab

Salt and rain-soaked leaves

A fresh herbal notes combining celery and grass impression with a salty undertone, but without any clear citrus component: still a fresh opening.

Later on the salty parts recedes, and the whole becomes smoother with woodsy noted in the background.

I get moderate sillage, limited projection and five hours of longevity 3/5
23rd September, 2017

Apsu by Ulrich Lang

It is OK, not bottle-worthy for me. Very green, in a leafy-herbal way. Could be a bit more dry. Everything blends together and it is hard to pick out notes. Some may enjoy that. Green fans should try it.
23rd September, 2017

San Remo by Geo F Trumper

Not impressed. Sweet, floral. Not a garrigue (herbs on a warm breeze) scent. Not particularly distinctive.
23rd September, 2017

Savoy Steam Eau de Parfum by Penhaligon's

I find this to be very light, even in the Parfum version. A refreshing spritz but not a knock-out. Very subtle, citrus, light woods, a creamy-rosemary note with a hint of rose.
23rd September, 2017

Agarbathi by Penhaligon's

This is a good scent. Perhaps not remarkable, but quite pleasant. Light incense and light suede combine to create a masculine but not heavy/macho scent. The spices are good and smoothed out by the milk accord. The florals are not sweet. Despite a fir balsam absolute note listed, I did not detect a distinct coniferous note.
23rd September, 2017
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