Perfume Reviews

Latest Perfume Reviews

Total Reviews: 144416

L'Eau Majeure d'Issey by Issey Miyake

Smells like a mature take on the sweet, modern aquatic. My first thought was Invictus Aqua, Mont Blanc Legend Spirit or something from Nautica but this seems to be a little more natural than those in the opening and turns out very nice. The drydown is much more ordinary, still fresh and pleasant but more synthetic. Not getting any citrusy yuzu, so this doesn't seem to have any original L'Eau d'Issey DNA to me.

Projection is average to good and longevity is very good, lasts all workday.
19th June, 2018

Déclaration by Cartier

I used to wear Eau D’Hermes, and Declaration reminds me of a fresher, brighter version of it. The dusty, dry spices and leather are all there, though it’s as if they serve to provide a backdrop for the silky and refined orange note, the same orange I couldn’t get enough of in Bulgari’s The Vert when it came out. There may be natural orange in here, too, but I’m picking up on a component with crazy radiance and longevity that has neither the bite nor the top-note-only volatility of natural orange oil. I first smelled this note in the Bulgari, so it makes me experience Declaration as being very much ot its time, though I wouldn’t call it dated - it’s far better than can be so easily dismissed.

Like my favorite classic colognes, I think Declaration smells less overtly masculine than it does overtly money! So elegant and interesting and masterful.

But keep in mind that I am sure not one to shy away from a good bone dry cumin note - I like L’Autre, too.
18th June, 2018

Colonia Intensa Oud Concentrée / Colonia Oud Concentrée by Acqua di Parma

WOW! Well crafted and extremely balanced from start to finish. Great longevity and sillage. The most unique Oud fragrance I own or have tried. It has the AdP dna for sure but the juice is so much more than the usual. Nice citrus with spice with a soapy type oud and musk combination with hints of leather. Exceptional IMO. A must have. Full bottle worthy. If you find this juice in your price range grab it up. Enjoy!
18th June, 2018
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Oriental Pearl by Unknown

Most of Shanghai Tang's fragrances seem to be skin scents. Little or no sillage. This one is the exception. Oriental Pearl is your basic oriental style blend, with amber, patchouli, benzoin, labdanum, and a touch of vanilla. It has a smokiness to it resembling tobacco. It has a sweetness. It is a great, inexpensive perfume.
18th June, 2018

Teint de Neige by Lorenzo Villoresi

The ultimate powdery fragrance. A hint of delicate flowers. Musky, dusty sugar. Teint de Neige oozes femininity.
It brings to mind many different scenarios, of the women who would wear this. Femme fatale to demure, young Miss.
18th June, 2018

Mugler Cologne by Thierry Mugler

Thierry Mugler did a 180 turn from his A Men (1996) and went away from the aromatic gourmand prototype which was that scent, making what is literally a modern take on a classic 18th century cologne. He didn't reinvent the wheel here, and instead just added a few modern twists to the citrus/flowers/herbs formula that eau de colognes always used going all the way back to Farina and 4711. The story has it that Mugler was trying to duplicate an ordinary bar of soap imported from Morocco that he liked, which was itself based on a traditional cologne fragrance. He wanted something different, something special about his cologne, so there is a purported "S Note" in the pyramid that remains unidentified as an ingredient. I'm going to be honest about this: It's really difficult to do a full thorough review about something that is just meant to be an update to a traditional and well-worn design. This is an eau de cologne with a little more beef than traditional varieties since it uses an actual base note to keep it on skin, whereas the older ones were just assorted smell-goods suspended in alcohol. Mugler does a good job with making something that can last as day wear better than anything actually from the 18th and 19th centuries in this category, but that's about all the kudos I can give.

You have to like traditional colognes to like this, and with much better options in both the niche realm and in higher-end designers, this just becomes more like the option for people who can only buy fragrances from Macy's. Mugler Cologne opens up with bergamot, lemon, neroli, and petitgrain, which is nothing out of the ordinary for this style. The separation from other colognes begins with the magical "S" note, which I can only denote as "savon" or soap, a waxy, kinda rosy, floral, round smell that you get from classic aromatic fougère compositions throughout the 70's and 80's, just dialed way down low so it doesn't disrupt the classic cologne vibe. The Orange flower and assorted herbs like sage and basil do the rest of the "greening up" of the scent until the white musk base comes in at the end, not too dissimilar to Caswell-Massey Number Six (1789). The overall vibe achieved by this combination is a classic cologne opening that merges with the soap and ends in the musk, so it's clean, very old-school, rather unisex as expected, but with a little more beef than the usual cologne, although that isn't to say it's long-lasting. One trick I do like is rubbing the area where the cologne is applied will reactivate the scent, so I guess the secret "S" has something to do with that, or does it?

All told, this is as good of a modern take on a classic cologne as can be expected from the designer realm, and although more expensive than a traditional cologne, isn't beyond the realms of attainability for the average stiff who likes this sort of thing. Alberto Morillas probably had fun being assigned to do something so prescribed and traditional as this, and there is a bit of that indescribable spunk you get from a "cover version" of an old song that I find here. I'm not super impressed by it because it's not distinctive besides the soap and musk additions, but I like it enough that it might one day find it's way into my collection, so it gets a thumbs up for me. I'd honestly view this as a slightly longer-lasting, and slightly soapier replacement for something like Farina or 4711, and although Atelier Cologne or anything from the Guerlain Imperiale line bests it, none of those will best it in price, which is where it counts for something this simple. Spending a lot of money on a good cologne just isn't necessary in the 21st century, and Mugler gets that, so this came along to provide the same, if not better level of performance that the old dogs from centuries past used to provide to nobility and the gentry classes. You'll find this in any good department store and where you use it doesn't matter, as it's just basic freshness in a bottle, pure and simple. Nice bottle too, I might add.
18th June, 2018

Tribute Attar by Amouage

This has so many things I love in a fragrance hitting my nose right from the start...I get the dirty and smoky orange rind that some people mention , but it lurks behind other facets...for me to get some enjoyment from that note i have to take a slow deep inhale and pause to catch on to it...dark/brooding/gothic/smoky are some of the descriptors that come to mind...an overall animalic feel...no civet or castoreum or anything along those lines...more of just an overall sense of wild feral animals roaming a dark wood with an ocassional wild rose blooming here and there...deep/rich/dark tobacco leaves...leather is there too...there's seems to be a lot of people out there that put this fragrance up on a pedestal, call it an oriental masterpiece and claim they found their holy grail...well, I have to say , I understand where they are coming from cause I'm on board with that...one of the most awesome fragrances I've ever smelled...get some great wood tones as it dries down...and, it goes without saying, this has a tremendous sprinkling of incense throughout...another one for my wish list... ( I do have a small decant what I believe was the most current version )...not a harsh smoke in this to my nose...more of a sweet smoke...IMHO , I think that Myths Man and Interlude Man are a sort of offshoot of this blueprint....mysterious deep dark rich smoky orientals...but that's just me...oh, and overall...this was definitely a incense/tobacco/leather scent to my nose...the rose did not really stand out for me...it's there, but not a key player to me..
18th June, 2018

Supernova by Dua Fragrances

Does have a strong resemblance to Elysium but feels heavier and more peppery in the opening. Drydown kicks in fast, becomes lighter but still smells like Elysium which means I really like how it smells. That said, I prefer Elysium both in smell and performance by a large margin.

Projection is average while it lasts and longevity is in the 3-4 hour range on my skin.
18th June, 2018

L'Homme Ultime by Yves Saint Laurent

Yves Saint Laurent L'Homme Ultime is poised as an "ultimate" version of the original YSL L'Homme (2006) composed a decade prior, and as an atypical flanker seeking to improve the original rather than supplement it, I'd say it's a mixed bag. In some ways, I do like it better than the first because it has a nice rose that wasn't in the first version, but in other ways, I find Yves Saint Laurent L'Homme Ultime to really be more of a supplement like it's brethren, because something is also lost. The original perfumers Domonique Ropion and Ann Flipo return, but Peter Wargyne sits out and is replaced with Juliette Karagueuzoglo, who has also worked on various other L'Homme flankers. Ultime is not spoken of quite as much as La Nuit de L'Homme (2009), a flanker that almost surpasses the original in popularity, and is far more ubiquitous, but Ultime is a silent-runner dark-horse champion that I feel is more perfumisto-friendly as a designer masculine that includes both ginger and rose, even if this includes only such enthusiasts interested in modern designers anyway. L'Homme Ultime won't set the world on fire, and neither did the original either, but for fans of that rarest of categories known as the masculine floral, this might be the closest one finds at a department store counter these days, if not diving into vintage or niche brands to find such a fix.

Yves Saint Laurent L'Homme Ultime opens with a typical grapefruit replacing the bergamot of the first, and ginger reminiscent of it's forefather intact, but with an added twist of cardamom to make it even spicier. There's no calone in Ultime like there was in the first L'Homme, so that slightly round and sweet melon note won't give this the shimmer of the original. The middle of sage and geranium is coupled with rose instead of the typical lavender, with no sight of the pepper or violet the original contained. The rose/sage/geranium middle is the star of Ultime, and where perfume enthusiast will take greatest interest. Granted, it's no Amouage Lyric Man (2008), Ungaro I (1991) or even Azzaro Acteur (1989), but it definitely is a nice dry rose that compliments the brighter top components well. The base of vetiver and cedar plays another complimentary role and is filled in with the olfactory epoxy glue that is norlimbanol and ambroxan, so this is the point when vintage fans stuck on their oakmoss ask the waiter for the check please and bail out. Everyone else who has submitted to the Almighty Wizard of Shnozz and his My First Chemistry set will be use to the dry and slightly scratchy finish of this, which falls in line with Calvin Klein cK2 (2016), which is another grayed-out rose experiment, but not done as well and even more synthetic. performance is superior to the original in most regards, with longer life and greater projection, so that's a definite leg up.

Yves Saint Laurent L'Homme Ultime is a modern mainstream masculine rose for the guy that wants a dumb-grab rose scent that isn't blatantly and obviously a rose perfume like something a lady friend would wear, but loves the idea of rose nonetheless. It's orchestrated in such a way that if it had just a few more natural ingredients and were just a bit stronger, it could almost be a niche release, but is of surprising quality anyway. Fans of the original will probably appreciate this one the best out of all the available choices in this line, since Yves Saint Laurent L'Homme Ultime seems to preserve the spirit of the first scent of the line best without just feeling like a cash-in on a name like most flankers. it rides a bit more romantic than the original scent, and is likewise good for spring, summer, and early fall use. Folks not a fan of the original will probably not find favor in Ultime either, unless a rose accord is enough to sway their opinion, but I'm a sucker for rose so this is a sure win for me. I admit it's faults and it's definitely a status-quo designer, but sometimes a plain ol' cheeseburger is fine. If we ate Filet Mignon every day, we'd lose our appreciation for the finer things, would we not? A drier, brighter, stronger, rose-powered but ultimately safe flanker to the stalwart L'Homme line. Two thumbs up.
18th June, 2018

Dzongkha by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Begins with cardamom and spice, for me. The tea, incense, and leather become oddly woody with an animalic accord. All this quickly passes in which the iris dominates on my skin. It is all iris from there on out. The middle notes could have lasted a bit more. I was enjoying the "skank". I DO enjoy my powdery irises so definitely a thumbs up, for that.
17th June, 2018
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Parfait de Rôses by Lancôme

On me I can detect two phases:

Firstly, the rose. The rose is fresh, light and elegant. More on the elegant side. Neither dark nor creamy, this rose is on the nimble side. There is an agreeable sweetness mixed with just enough greenness to balance out the sweetness.

Secondly, the second phase, constituted of a sweetish and non-distinct impression that is hard to characterise. The rose, initially still present, is inexorably swallowed by this olfactory melasse.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

This spring scent’s rede is nice, but nothing truly special. The second phase is rather unimpressive, and the initial rose is not special enough to push this composition into the positive realm. 2.75/5.

17th June, 2018
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Tubereuses Castane by Lancôme

When I applied this fragrance in my skin, it was mainly the tuberose that was of interest to me. Although a bit thin, it was nice, more in the restrained and gentle mode and devoid of any waxiness or wood undertones.

The chestnut is less convincing on me, and whilst a generalised nuttiness cannot be denied, it remains rather nonspecific on me.

There is also a tonka noticeable towards the second half of the course of its development, and whilst it is pleasant and agreeable, it remained a bit too faint to contribute more that some sweetness and additional depth to the whole mix.


I get moderate sillage, good projection and and six hours of development on my skin.

Quite a nice tuberose but not very intensive, and the whole is a bit too anaemic to really convince. 2.75/5.
17th June, 2018
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Lavandes Trianon by Lancôme

There are two main elements to this composition:

Firstly, the lavender of course. And it is a nice lavender, typical and more in the traditional vein, soft and herbal.

Secondly, the vanilla. A pleasant vanilla, but devoid of any special features and a tad pedestrian on me.

Otherwise there is limited development in my skin.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.

Overall it is the lavender that makes this spring scent. It is make of ingredients of good quality, and justifies a - just - positive score, even is the rest is less convincing. 3/5.
17th June, 2018
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rbaker Show all reviews
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Jasmins Marzipane by Lancôme

The jasmine is clearly eveident, especially in the first part. His is quite a pleasant jasmine and on the sweet side, and overall more on the restrained side.

The other main component is a vanilla. It is sweet too, but again not very intensive and never intrusive or cloying. Whilst the vanilla is obvious, the marzipan promised in the name is rather faint and more of a transient nature.

Otherwise, in the later stages there are woodsy undertones, as well as white musky tones towards the end.

I get soft sillage, adequate projection and four hours of longevity on my skin.

This spring scent is not bad in its concept, but the execution comes across less complex and is rather generic. Together with a certain lack in vividness, this amounts to a neutral score. 2.75/5.
17th June, 2018

Rose TRO Attar by Amouage

awesome...a rose lovers dream...rose in all it's splendor and glory...unbelievable powerhouse projection...not much to say...could ramble on for several paragraphs about all the nuances and delights of this fragrance, but suffice to say, this is all about rose...the only other flavor is a citrusy amber mist hanging in the distance to give this a little balance so as not to be just an overpowering rose scent...if you love rose, I would recommend making an effort to at least sample this baby at some point of your fragrance journeys...
17th June, 2018

Eternity Air for Men by Calvin Klein

Fresh, clean, citrusy-sweet and masculine, Eternity Air smells really nice. Nothing terribly original but is nice to smell. And that’s where I run into problems with this scent, it doesn’t project or last well enough for myself or others to smell. Almost instantly a skin scent and only lasts for maybe an hour on my skin.
16th June, 2018

Mon Guerlain by Guerlain

No doubt Guerlain has spent a good part of the past 15 years or so trying to keep its name at the forefront of the collective mind of the mass perfume-buying public. Which is fine. Even the French have to send their kids to college, and they can’t do it on the strengths of Mitsouko and Shalimar alone.

And it hasn’t been all bad. L’Instant and Insolence are very good, though I don’t own them. And Parfum Initial is in my opinion great. Also targeted for mass appeal, you bet, but it didn’t insult those masses. It gave them a beautifully updated and almost humorous riff on a classic that at the same time managed to throw off tons of modern sparkle and charm. That Guerlain pulled the plug on PI after only a few years (as they do with all Shalimar flankers, most of which range from very good to drop-dead great), sending yet more 'fume freaks scrambling over to the ‘Bay to hoard bottles, makes me wonder if Wasser and Co. don’t suffer from some kind of attention deficit disorder.

And maybe, at this point, an inability to innovate? Seriously, does the world really need Mon Guerlain, yet another well-made but inoffensive scent? Perfectly fine, sure, but also perfectly generic, perfectly redundant, and perfectly calibrated to be as easy-to-grasp as every paint-by-number juice that hits the counters these days. A hit of something citrus up front, followed by an iris that momentarily echoes that of Parfum Initial’s, some lavender to tone down the sweetness, some musk to keep it clean, and enough vanilla in the dry down to hit that perfect pastry note, since it seems that everyone these days wants to end up smelling like a donut.

I laughed when I saw that Angelina Jolie is the spokesperson. Really? I’d be embarrassed if I were her. Don’t mind me, though. Mon Guerlain is probably selling like gangbusters.
16th June, 2018

17/17 Richwood by Xerjoff

Heaven. Truly, it is. But Heaven's price tag is far too exclusive... especially when the price-of-admission sandalwood note is sweetened and powdered to the extent of losing its most valued (woody, milky) qualities. In purgatory, I'll stay.
16th June, 2018

L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme Intense by Issey Miyake

Peppery, fresh and clean but too much bitterness, not enough sweet-citrus for me to enjoy in the beginning. Maybe I'm just wishing it was more like the non-intense version, which I do like very much.

Feels like a dressed up version of the original, as if Intense was what you wear to formal events. More green and bitter, less citrusy sweet.

The drydown is very nice. Sweeter but still plenty of clean freshness. This does smell more like the original. Also, better longevity than the original. Does not project as well as the original, low projection throughout on my skin.
16th June, 2018

Yesterday by Room 1015

WOW! Stunning juice. Slightly sweet, green and floral to my nose. I get a little apple type vibe from it as well. I do smell vetiver, basil, cardamom and sandalwood. I would say this is a true unisex. I think this is a perfect juice for spring, summer and fall. Day or night. I wouldn't pay full retail for this but a nice decant will do you. Enjoy!


In the dry down
Now that I am over 5 hours in the dry down is very similar to Davidoff The Good Life. Lots of Vetiver. Awesome juice.
15th June, 2018
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Sky di Gioia by Giorgio Armani

Sweet fruitiness - peony - quite popular with this house at times - and a rather generic and nonspecific rose are the centrepieces of this blend.

he fruitiness - lychee and whiffs of a slightly peachy hint - add to the sweetness. Not much development over time.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

A synthetic tone in this spring scent and the quite generic outlook taken here condemn it to being an average creation. 2.5.
15th June, 2018
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Air di Gioia by Giorgio Armani

An generalised fruitiness is at the core of this composition, with fresh touches of bergamot and neroli woven into the opening notes.

The drydown developers into the floral range, with peony indeed in the foreground, but in a rather generic fashion. A synthetic patchouli - mixing softly with the floral sweetness - leads into the base, where a nonspecifically woodsy undertone remains until the end.

I get moderate sill ate, very good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

A fruity/floral sprong composition that is rather generic and very much middle-of-the-road. 2.5/5.

15th June, 2018

Cereus Pour Homme No. 14 by Cereus

Overall a safe office or casual juice. This shouldn't offend anyone nor will it garner many compliments. I don't mind the fragrance myself but it is lacking in imagination. It is a more mature scent IMO. Similar to other frags on the market such as Armani Code. Try before you buy.
15th June, 2018

Pineapple Vintage Beyond Noir by Parfums Vintage

An amazing quality product that mirrors the smokey versions of Aventus from Creed. Great longevity and sillage. There is a nice amount of pineapple with lots of birch. I think it's great and the fans of the smokey birch version will love this as well. For the price and quality I would say this is blind buy safe but if you are hesitant get a sample... Otherwise... Enjoy!
15th June, 2018

John Varvatos Oud by John Varvatos

You can smell the oud in JV Oud but it is definitely more approachable and safe than other oud scents considered to be the references for the genre. The ambery-sweetness (this is not a sweet scent) mixed with florals, spice, tobacco, and leather all share equal billing with the oud, so I could see how some would be disappointed that the oud isn't featured more prominently. That being said, a solid choice for someone who wants to just "dabble" in oud and also not choke out a room. Projection is average while longevity is just slightly below average, maybe 4-5 hours.
15th June, 2018

Emprise by Avon

Emprise was one of a series of "Ultra-Colognes" from Avon: fragrances that really sat somewhere between eau de toilette and eau de parfum in power, but since the word "perfume" conjured up images of daintiness, and eau de toilette was likely deemed too much a mouthful for the Avon rank and file, they used this term to describe it's strength instead. Right out the gate you can tell this was inspired by by green floral chypres like Fidji (1966), Calandre (1969), and Alliage (1972), siting somewhere between them and the leathery starker and even greener chypres of this nature such as Chanel No 19 (1971) or the later Silences (1978). There's a floral bounce similar to Charlie (1973), which is what many who owned both back in the day compared this to most, but Emprise is not on the same level of sweetness as Charlie, pulling more unisex like most of what's mentioned above thanks to it's bitter green top mixed with a dry woodsy moss base. I'd still say Emprise is more of a challenge than stuff like No 19 to guys looking for transgender fragrance ideas, since No 19 is much better-suited to guys thanks to it's dominant leather grass and rose accord, but men who can stand a larger-than-usual lily of the valley and jasmine dose should do just fine in time. Women, on the other hand, might find this a little more jarring than men because of the dryness and heavy moss plonk making it literally a world apart from modern airy florals, but I have a feeling the perfumistas reading this are already well-versed enough in this era to know what they're in for before the first spray.

Emprise opens with a metallic bergamot, lemon, and galbanum, as is almost expected from this genre. The opening is nicely faded into the middle, especially since deep vintage is the only vintage on this juice, so it quickly slips into the floral middle of jasmine, rose orris, muguet, and carnation, with the orris and carnation being the big connection to Charlie that made all the drugstore-shopping teen girls of the day connecting this to that competing Revlon scent, but I feel this is far more mature, and more 3-piece suit than blue jeans and blouse. Sandalwood, amber, and oakmoss finish this up, and once they land, the florals dance on top of them for the rest of the wear, with men less confident in their footing with feminine perfume probably relieved at this point to be back in usual chypre territory. The lovely jasmine/rose/muguet/carnation singing quartet never quite fades from view, making Emprise more "floral" than most of these other older green chypres, which is Avon's legacy at work, since they are known primarily for two things outside of their price point and wavering originality: their propensity for deep amber notes and their origins as a maker of quaint floral perfumes. Why wouldn't Avon bolster the flower count in their take of the dry green feminine chypre style that was marching through the 70's? It really feels like they were trying to compromise between the fans of their older "proper lady" perfumes, and the edgier, tomboyish young Women of the 70's with this stuff, but not all compromises are bad. The metallic edge never really goes away, which can be irritating, and longevity on this is a monster, so it's a sharp-smelling commitment from the first spray until you get to shower it off.

To wear Emprise is a tricky endeavor for anyone in the 21st century, as it skates on the thin ice of being a flower-heavy perfume but without the usual aldehydes, supplanting them instead with lots of green chypre notes, but otherwise sharing similar woods and moss bases. It's sometimes too feminine for a man, but too masculine for a modern woman, but not deliberately unisex enough to maintain that narrow balance betwixt. Instead, Emprise plays out like a battle of the sexes on skin, a tug of war back and forth between bright florals and dry base notes. Performance on Avon "Ultra-Colognes" is utterly amazing, and you're going to be very loud with just a few sprays, so please be careful. Despite the Avon moniker and likely cheap price tag (even decades later in vintage), this is a really quality perfume, with noticeable moss and sandalwood in the base, full of depth. The box claims "Into a world not easily impressed, comes Emprise", and I'll leave it up to you weather this old gal can actually still impress as it suggests it can, but I'm pretty well-stunned. Guys who love playing with old chypres can totally afford to jump on this, but this is not nearly as approachable to a man as something like the gateway drug of Chanel no 19, so advanced dabblers only. As far as ladies are concerned, if you love the dry 70's style and aren't afraid of a little grass stain on your jeans, give this a shot.
15th June, 2018

Sung Homme by Alfred Sung

Alfred Sung is a Chinese-born Canadian fashion designer known in the industry for founding the Club Monaco chain of stores, but in the mid-80's launched Parfums Alfred Sung, which begat the eponymous Alfred Sung in 1986, then this male counterpart in 1988. Sung Homme is an anachronism for the 80's in the same way Rive Gauche Pour Homme (2003) was for the turn of the millenium. The late 80's was a time of extremely virile and animalic floral chypres doing battle with (and losing to) the new wave of synthetic "fresh" fougères and aquatics pushing their way up, but here was Sung Homme just riding in the out-dated groove of soapy early 70's aromatic fougères and doing surprisingly well. It would seem like the career death via estrangement from the progression of mainstream masculine trends a la Avon, but maybe because Alfred Sung had a lot more clout in the scene, the throwback nature of his masculine was allowable. Regardless, the futuristic violet color juice and monolithic Art Deco bottle catches the eye enough that I'm sure more than a few guys (or their significant others) bought this blind upon release. Sung Homme, as an aromatic fougère, feels right at home alongside 70's aromatic fougère and chypre greats like Paco Rabanne Pour Homme (1973), Avon Deep Woods (1974), Bogart Eau de Toilette Pour Homme (1975), Halston Z-14 (1976), Van Cleef & Arpels Pour Homme (1978), and others, but it's not without it's notoriety.

What is that notoriety you ask? Well, let's just say it bares a remarkable resemblance to Irish Spring Soap (1970), and wouldn't be alone in directly drawing parallels to commercial bath products, as Cabaret Pour Homme (2004) would also be a direct aping of Coast Soap (1976), but doesn't get the flack that Alfred Sung receives since it was designed by a famous nose and was discontinued, getting instant veneration from vintage fans. Speaking of noses, nobody knows who made Sung Homme, and while it chugs along into it's 30th year of continuous production, it gets a more-divisive reaction from perfumistos because it's commonly available, making it's perceived flaws less tolerable. Commercial soap comparisons aside, the scent does have way more notes than can be readily detected due to it's blending, but there is definitely a lemon/bergamot top with laurel and galbanum. I don't get much petitgrain but I don't doubt it's in there; the middle of sage, thyme, lavender, geranium, rosewood and fir is more readable to me, although the mossy base of cedar, sandalwood, musk, and vetiver is definitely the star attraction after the first hour. I'm not getting much patchouli separation in this mix, but overall this feels like Paco Rabanne Pour Homme but slightly less herbal, less floral, and levels of magnitude higher in the soapy department. Regardless of what kind of soap it is, you really have to like soap fragrances to like Sung Homme, as it's the soapiest masculine I've smelled; it's literally an 80's powerhouse of epic bar soap.

Performance on Sung Homme by Alfred Sung is extraordinary, with sillage for miles and longevity for a work day. Aromatic fougère fans will honestly forget this is an 80's juice outside of the packaging and it is probably the safest work scent from the period as you'll smell like nothing but clean all day. Wardrobes well-stocked with 70's classics don't really need this violet oddity, but the asking price is low enough that it also makes for a low-risk experiment if the curiosity of what 70's sauve and 80's power combined smells like, or if the legend of this being "Irish Spring the Fragrance" is true. I don't think this is an intentional or direct copy of Irish Spring's "Ulster Scent" (as it's called in-house at Colgate-Palmolive), but I can certainly see the resemblance in Sung Homme's DNA. There also isn't a ton of distinction between new and vintage (thankfully) as the increased soap factor from reduced moss found in most still-produced aromatics isn't detectable in a scent like this, as it's already known for being soapy. Older iterations have an integrated sprayer cap while newer just use separate cap and spray head, if that matters. Thumbs up for performance and quirkiness, but fair warning that Sung Homme is far from a revelation in a bottle, outside of the color. Best used in the office, lazy weekends, or days when clean is the only vibe you want to give off.
14th June, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Epicene Gamma / Nicolas Beaulieu by IFF

Stardate 20180614:

Starts off like Italian Eau de Colgne. Good quality and has something more that makes it really good. Geranium maybe or that Gamma thingy.
I get a lot of citrus here. Citrus that lasts for hours.
This one would make a great addition to Acqua de Parma Colonia line.

Good stuff
14th June, 2018

Polo Ultra Blue by Ralph Lauren

More fresh and zesty in the opening than EDT or EDP. Something salty or spicy.

Does not project like the EDT and does not have the depth of the EDP. Feels very summery and young throughout.

In the end, I wouldn’t have been surprised if Nautica had put this out smells like yet another Voyage flanker.

Longevity is below average, lasts maybe 4-5 hours and then fades away quickly.
14th June, 2018

Dark Rebel Rider by John Varvatos

Enjoyable when first sprayed on, drydown is headache inducing. Returned to store.

4/10
14th June, 2018
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