Review of the Eau de Parfum:
Asomewhat attenuated bergamot with a fruity undertone gives way to a white flowery impression, which develop into the central accord of this composition's heart notes.
Later on the fruitiness morphs into a white musk component, an in the base this impression lingers towards the end.
I get moderate sillage, limited projection, and three hours of longevity on my skin.
Looking and this sping scent, the opening notes are quite clear, but very, very generic. The later stages are very synthetic too, equally generic and, additionally, quite bland and weak on my skin, never developing fully to an extent that results in a convincing or even a mediocre overall impression. 1.75/5.
A sweetish and fruity concoction, mainly lychee and a mild ginder accent, which in the drydown shifts to become mainly a floral composition.
The floral impressions in the heart notes are mainly freesia, lotus and violet, the latter being dominant on my skin and the most convincing detail in this mix
The base is a soft patchouli mixed with a woodsy undertone; all this is topped off by white musks. The middle phase and the base are very lackluster and thin on my skin.
I get moderate sillage, good projection and an excellent eight hours of longevity on my skin.
A spring scent that is very synthetic most if the time, and, apart form the violet contribution, overly generic. It performs quite well though, but overall is really not even mediocre. 1.75/5.
Generic fresh, fruity fragrance with some citrus notes of orange and an implied melon effect. Dries down to a synthetic woods base. It isn't sweet in particular, and has a hint of a sourness which is mercifully very restrained. It is very generic overall, and similar to many including Burberry Weekend for Men and CK One. However, it's an upgrade on the Burberry which comes across as harsher and screechier, but is less fun than the CK as it lacks One's androgynous appeal.
The mid phase does have a very vague metallic aspect.
Quite forgettable, but perhaps not the worst of its kind. Contrary to its target audience, I imagine this would work better on young girls.
Juniper, Cardamom, some of my favourite things.
I was hoping for an improvement from the Naff thing that was EDT. All I can say is. Go Diptyque Eau Duelle,
for a Voyage to remember.
Or Chanel No.18 for an elegant trip across the Universe.
23rd April, 2017 (last edited: 25th April, 2017)
My second fragrance from the house of MFK, first was Satin Oud, and now this. I love the house. This is smooth and just a little soft on me, i prefer more of a loud scent. Please advise what should be my third from MFK? I have explored Amouge and love it, but have moved on to MFK which i feel has more of a refinement
Nightingale by Zoologist is a light coral hued perfume that smells somewhat like a Japanese tea garden which must be an intended tone from perfumer Tomoo Inaba. The combination of sharp saffron spiced incense violet woods and plum wine floral notes layered over oud wood, patchouli, sandalwood, frankincense and labdanum base gives an aroma of fine dry Japanese style incense imbued paper. This is a spectacular incense floral scent that maintains a purity and lightness of being that is uplifting to be around. I expect to see kimonos, hot tea and gently bubbling waters in the garden when wearing this one. The name Nightengale and the imagery on the bottle does not give a hint at the wondrous mystical dry floral incensed woods that follow after slight application. This is a beautiful fragrance that even though is lightly floral I consider it perfectly unisex.
A lovely floral, fruity fragrance. Sweet, simple, summery, and flirty. A casual scent to accompany a halter dress and sandals. Big floppy hat, optional.
A summery, floral delight! Powdery, girly-girl, and fun. Just a hint of darkness as it dries down. Light, delicate, feminine.
A Review of the Original Vintage Version made by Yardley:
An opening blast of awesome quality: bergamot, lots of beautiful, orange, a touch of lemon, and some verbena in the background: a paradigmatic chypre opening if there ever was one; crisp and refreshing a Cologne this one truly is!
The drydown develops a gorgeous lavender note, as if freshly picked in the garden, intense, very - typical. This lavender is very close in quality to my benchmark lavender, which is Old English Lavender from the same house. Clary sage, geranium and a woodsy-herbal undertone follow the traditional route in a thoroughly convincing manner.
The base adds a - slightly earthy - vetiver, and, besides a gently crisp patchouli, also employs a lovely oakmoss; but it does that very sparingly. Whilst many oakmoss-based fragrances derive their allure from the full-throttle release of its mossy-spicy sharpness in an unfettered manner, here the oakmoss is applied in a nigh-homeopathic dose like seasoning in an already rich and tasty dish.
I get moderate sillage, very good projection, and a stupendous longevity on twelve hours on my skin - an utterly incredible performance that is unbelievable for a humbly labeled "Cologne."
This spring cent for warmer days is a seminal chypre, less harsh than many contemporaries due judiciously sparing application of the oakmoss and the comparative smoothness of the patchouli. I personally and subjectively would have preferred a bit more prominence of the oakmoss, but its sparing use in this composition results in an objectively convincing result nonetheless.
The high natural quality of the ingredients is beyond doubt, as is the perfect blending. Direct, unfussy, upright and supremely crafted in the traditional way - a very fine example of British Perfumery. 4.25/5.
One of the first perfumes I ever purchased - almost a decade back. At that point of time, I had tried Armani Code and liked it a lot. However, being a student - I couldn't afford it. Whisky Black smelled good enough to my then-untrained nose, and for some reason it was to be a substitute for Code.
This started off with some generic fresh citrus notes including orange, before a rather faint and generic woody-patchouli kicked in after 30 minutes or so. The cash would always run out by the end of two hours.
The price was modest enough that I'd overlook all such shortcomings - then and today.
A random array of synthetic smelling 'fresh notes' desired to create an aftershave effect, but in reality ends up smelling like zombie juice. There is an initial burst of nondescript freshness before a luminous and chemical patchouli-incense takes over that's nearly nauseous. In fact, this is one of the very few perfumes I had to scrub off.
Sillage and duration are fair, but that rather adds to the misery. I imagine a more natural version of this (perhaps a little more diluted and airy to yield a crisp EdC effect) could be worthwhile. Just an astonishing abomination in its current self.
The bottle is cool.
No more words to fully express my genuine appreciation for this canadian house. This semi-oriental "flori-fragrance" is really spectacular guys (especially after many hours, in its long mysterious dry down). Another artist or indipendent perfumer cooperating with the Zoologist's inspired Art Director (and brand-owner) Victor Wong in order to develop the perfume-house's aesthetic message. Shelley Waddington (Zoologist Civet as well) is the perfumer behind the variegate line En Voyage Perfumes which is created, bottled and packaged at Shelley Waddington’s "workshop". This artist transfers temporarily at the Zoologist's "labos" all her experience and specific knowledge about the classic floral-chypre's universe of the glorious past. Hummingbird is another ostensibly vegetal (fruity-floral-botanic) creation of the line and it sounds by soon as a refined fruity-floral work of green-honeyed balance. Rosey abstraction, honey, pollen, leafy humid silvan greenness, nectarinic fruitiness, medicinal soapiness and powdered muskiness wave constantly in the air. I just can say this is a fragrance to die for, a sort of honeyed-green synthetic multinuanced masterpiece. Hyper refinened as an ideally new generation florals-inspired green Chanel N. 19. A green atmosphere represents the ostensibly vegetal background of this powerfully floral olfactory orchestra. Honey (a rosey waxy/aldehydic neo-victorian resinous honey more than vaguely conjuring the great Ysl Kouros as ideally encoutering Mademoisele Coco in to a minty/starry patchouli-veined embrace) is the second element of this honeyed-green "backstage", a sort of waxy-plummy and evidently pears-smelling vibe which is the "dandy" core of this immensely beautiful evocative (arcane memories of a disappeared childhood) juice. Hummingbird is a lofty blend of several of the most transparent and ethereal florals in nature like lilac, peony, mimosa, rose, violet, muguet, honeysuckle and tulip, overall rooted on a sort of honeyed-green "basement" enriched by rooty, spicy, earthy, woody and musky accents. Sandalwood provides a sort of musky-salty honeyed take of intense refinement (soapy, soapy, soapy) while ylang-ylang (joined to medicinal soapiness and misty ambery-milky-honeyed powder) imprints a wave of translucent exoticism straight from the recesses of the misty childhood. I detect in the air a sort of super-modern synth "kind of aldehydic-lacteous-damp", abstract and I'd say "hyperbaric/translucent/suspended in the air/diaphanous" background a la Andrea Maack's Craft or Silk. The illusion about nectars and floral pollens is intense. It seems to detect as well something kind of dry-woody (hay) or "cyber xerox-toner-like" (a la Cdg Odeur 71) as well. An amazing "chiaroscuro" of vaguely medicinal, naphthalenic, earthy, plastic and soapy-cosmetical tones enriches the general harmony. The juice settles finally down on a velvety milky-ambery-musky basic accord (exuding rosey-honeyed-soapy accents in typical english style) nuanced by typically chypre (old-school in perception) honeyed-animalistic-mossy accents. The final outcome is extremely opulent and really hard to describe (lacteous, "nectarinic", vaguely leathery, aromatic, resinous, medicinal, ambery, peppery, liquorous, honeyed, fruity, unique), something re-interpreting in a modern and genial key a conglomeration of classic themes ("earthy/vegetal/boise", "honeyed-chypre/soapy/rosey/victorian" and more modernly dry-floral - vaguely cyber/abstract at the very end). Unisex (not strictly feminine, especially along dry down) imo. Excellent.
22nd April, 2017 (last edited: 24th April, 2017)
An orange-fruity opening, which is soon given a touch of very restrained spiciness by a saffron impression, dominates the first part in this product's development.
The drydown heads into the floral realm, with a mildly dark rose impression most evident on my skin. The base loses the fruitiness as well as the floral bent, and is mainly constituted by a soft, slightly sweet patchouli, which is given additional depth by a minimally earthy vetiver.
I get soft sillage, adequate projection, and six hours of longevity on my skin.
This spring composition is quite nice in some aspects. Unfortunately, it is rather generic and synthetic, and its dull, at times insipid, genericness is the more disappointing feature of the two.
On the other hand, it is well blended and at times the notes compliment each other fairly well. Like blood-orange, I am on the fence with this Armani creation too, and if there was a green-orange option in the dropdown menu I would choose that. In the absence of such a choice, the somewhat disappointing performance on my skin puts it into the neutral category, strongly veering towards the positive though. 2.75/5.
I'll give this one a neutral because it's in the family of GIT,Chez Bond but smells like a better blend of Coolwater. This takes the place of GIT/Coolwater mentions of similarities.
Decent patchouli. There's also a grassy, piquant vetiver in there doing a lot of the heavy lifting as well. A pinch of lemongrass adds brightness at first, before a sour bergamot takes over and adds that touch of mold you get in some patchouli perfumes. There's also a bit of that "woody amber" aromachemical that smells kind of like ammonia, which I generally detest but isn't too awful here, though I question what it could possibly be contributing that couldn't have been achieved with birch tar or saffron or some less-cheap dark component. After a few hours, a slight chocolate undertone arrives once the bergamot fades.
All in all, I prefer dirty, earthy, woody patchoulis more than this sour mouldering kind, but the use of vetiver is clever. All in all, a neutral rating. Anything with that ammonia smell is automatically disqualified from getting a thumbs up.
Bergamot-aldehydic freshness with a fruity-green undertone, and combined with galbanum - the recipe for the traditional opening of a chypre - and very well executed. Never really spritely fresh though and always a touch of mellowness draped over the top notes, like a shade over a sunny meadow.
The drydown brings out the floral side, with tuberose and other white florals present. Soon, after a phase where an orris accord develops, the main player on the second half boldly arises: an almighty oakmoss of astounding natural beauty, with touches of skankiness courtesy of a musk sidekick, and, towards the end, with a hint of vanilla-based sweetness. In all this, the oakmoss is the solist accompanied by the olfactory orchestra constituted by the other notes.
I get moderate sillage, excellent projection, and a stupendous longevity of an amazing fourteen hours on my skin.
A wonderful autumnal beauty for warmer days, this classic chypre creation is characterised by the top quality of its natural ingredients. Whilst a bit attenuated and maybe a tad dull-ish at times - this is a vintage after all - it is blended masterfully and convincingly. 4/5
A superfluous and sub par rose offering - there is a dark, oriental aspect that is quickly lost. One can discern a hint of lychee, but it is not fully explored. Then comes forward a deep rose note that is supported by some spices, with cardamom being prominent. However, things soon come apart as the fragrance suddenly loses most of its body and presence to become a thin veil of a peppered rose.
The basic problem with these types of fragrances is a singular lack of complexity. There is not much abstraction, yet it isn't a soliflore. Lack of development is okay, but linearity has to be rewarded either by an accord that's either engaging or substantial - if not both. Else it becomes what it is here - front-loaded - a phenomenon all too commonplace and endemic in modern perfumery.
One positive aspect of Rose de Petra is that it avoids the tired oud and/or patchouli notes, but still briefly yields an oriental touch. However, this style of rose is much better experienced in many other rose fragrances, including Noir de Noir, Amouage Lyric, and Calligraphy Rose. Also, the ones marketed as 'oud's hardly have oud in most cases. Thus, there's no harm in exploring rose-ouds if one looks for a deep, dark rose while looking to avoid oud. If it has to be only about the rose - La Fille de Berlin and Eau de Protection are far more compelling alternatives.
Sillage is good initially before quickly dying down, and duration is around average.
Soft, fuzzy peach, green tea essence, a hint of citrus, and a pinch of tomato leaf for green, all over that Snuggle fabric softener chemical. It's strong and lasts forever.
Aside from a quickly fading hint of bile coming from that tomato leaf, there's nothing specifically bad about how Io Capri is put together, but the pleasant combination of familiar chemicals feels more like a cheap reed diffuser or an upscale laundry detergent than a proper perfume. Meh.
Strange perfume that's a little more like wearing a citrus cologne while barbecuing chicken. It's longevity is not great (like most citrus) but it's very unique. A good comparison with Zeste Pamplemousse. Still enjoyable.
A subdued flanker. It's got less of the campfire wood and unfortunately the citrus. LDDM is a difficult fragrance to wear, but this version is the answer to that. I prefer LDDM, especially just to smell, but I would probably wearing this instead. The amber is not overpowering, and neither is anything else. The biggest weakness is the loss of that beautiful citrus.
Smoky, woody, leather reminiscent of Royal English Leather. After a while the rose and iris enter the picture and then the sandalwood and ambergris give it an out-of-doors quality. Very nice. It's a good option for those who don't want too much rose.
Starts off with balsamic cardamom with sourness, then starts fading pretty quickly. Not for me at this price.
I like cardamom but the longevity on this one is weak. It's a spicy juniper cardamom bolsted by sauna wood. It's different enough that some people will choose it for formal or office wear. The oudh softens the wood and the musk cleans it up.
It has a freshness like Patou Pour Homme Prive without the lavender. The juicy/and sour Apple and geranium mix really well with the mint giving it a bright cold quality perfect for winter or spring. The sandalwood at the bottom is more just plain wood, and it gives it an overcast apple orchard quality. Surprisingly good.
Dirty, brooding oud and a powerful, heavy rose. Reminds me of Montale Black Aoud, very similar.
Very powerful projection with minimal sprays.
An out-of-doors leather fragrance with lots of hay and some violet. It's uni-sex and quite pleasant. If you have Green Irish Tweed but want more leather than Iris and Sandalwood it would be a good alternative. In fact this could be a good hay scent for those who like that quality.
A citrus basil start with a sweet mint. Underneath nice woods appear. It has an elegant quality about it with nothing "too much". It seems cheerful and wearable. It's classic. It's like a sexy Polo Green and Derby. This is my favorite Tom Ford fragrance so far.
Currently my favorite, I'm getting compliments on this one, especially from my wife who surprised me when she said she could smell it on my skin after 10 hours. It does die down but that's a good thing since it opens really strong on the skin. Citrus and floral, honestly it smells like magnolia bloom and maybe mandarin orange. Very reminiscent of the original formulation of Aqua di Gio for men.
It's poor man's Polo Sport
Pepper, Vetiver and Cedar. That's the entire scent from start to finish. Not bad but nothing special. Could be used as a nice office scent or in casual settings IMO. Overall for the price I would say it's a safe blind buy. Enjoy!