Perfume Reviews

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Total Reviews: 132797

Memoirs of a Trespasser by Imaginary Authors

I am almost always 99% in sync with the estimable ClaireV's opinions -- and 100% entertained by her witty writing.

And in the case of this scent, she is absolutely accurate in every description of its components and effects. But in a Bizarro World twist, every element of it that she finds objectionable I find utterly enchanting. Opening of "musky raw woods and candied grapefruit rind"? Check. Midpoint of "skanky moment...grappa...wood solvent"? Check. Ending of "woodsy or boise vanilla"? Check. And I love every second of it.

Vive la difference! Or perhaps: One woman's meat is another woman's poison?

I do seem to be getting a much greater smoky effect and much less sweetness than other wearers. In fact, the very rough vanilla is to me much more like a burning vanilla-ish pipe tobacco than a foody vanilla. And the sweetness, rather than candy, smells to me more like the smoke that wafts up from burning sugar, which I think does bear some resemblance to the sweet/bitter bite of candied grapefruit peel. Rough, harsh, and cozy, all at the same time. Plus: a staggering 18 hours of longevity. Straight to the top of my FBW list.
19th January, 2017

Pour Un Homme by Caron

Stardate 20170119:

Vintage Version:

For the record I love lavender and get my fix from the lavender farmer at the farmers market in Manhattan.

I have no idea why this is so liked. Lavender and vanilla just don't work here.
Any lavender oil is better than this abomination.

Come to think of it Caron makes crappy masculines - this, 3 Man, Yatagan. All meh and overrated IMO

Avoid this and get lavender oil instead (available in your neighborhood grocery store)
19th January, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Ambre Nue by Atelier Cologne

The opening declares itself as an amber straight away, smooth but with a fresher bergamot edge initially, with judicious doses of marigold and cinnamon combining with benzoin to create the amber impression. This amber is rounded and not sharp at all.

Soon a lovely labdanum develops, together with a very soft patchouli adding additional depth and richness to the amber core. In the base added tonka and vanilla give it a sweet note, but only gently so.

The sillage is moderate, the projection excellent, and the longevity is ten hours on my skin.

A very nice autumnal and versatile amber composition that is very well blended. 3.5/5.
19th January, 2017
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Le Gemme : Ambero by Bulgari

I was lucky enough to recently try a tester of this at the Bvlgari display in David Jones store in Sydney. The bottle itself wasn't on display as they will not be selling these until late February 2017, but the SA knew that I would be interested, so he bought out the tester bottles of this one, and the Onekh leather one and the Gyan jasmine/patchouli one.

The bottles are stunning in person and are a nice counter-point to the female Le Gemme series.

Ambero starts out very Oriental. The ginger, saffron and pepper are all distinguishable and soon the fragrance settles on the skin as a comfortable and familiar amber style of fragrance. Unlike a lot of other amber fragrances on the market, this one is not paired with tonka, vanilla or any type of dried fruit. However the familiarity I think comes from the recently released Colonia Ambra from Acqua di Parma.

As to longevity and sillage, I can't yet comment as I've only been wearing this for 2 hours. However, these are all EDP's so I would hope both would be considerable.

Of the 3 I tried I think that Gyan is the most unique and probably full bottle worthy.
19th January, 2017

Bois du Portugal by Creed

Bois du Portugal is one of the top members of the Creed-dynasty on the side of Vintage Tabarome, Cuir de Russie, Green Irish Tweed, Royal English Leather and few others. A super classic really masculine gentlemen-fragrance with a stout smoky woody-leathery initial assault (yet luxurious and royal due to a decadent hesperidic vibe), a green-spicy core (aromatic, vaguely minty, lemony-cologney and musky) and a luxurious "stuffy-retro" victorian final vibe a la (even for diverse reasons) Aramis JHL, Guerlain Mitsouko, Derby or Clinique Aromatics Elixir (with a restrained virile twist afforded by woods and spicy ambergris). Bergamot, aromatic lavender, astringent cedar, piquant ambergris and powdery woods unfold a quite classic-barbershop vibe in the middle between the great French chypre tradition, the 80's powerful aromatic fougere and the rosey-laundry victorian British olfactory historic school. Dry down is a gorgeous mix of powdery-mossy vaguely rosey woods (chypre, green-minty and poudree), spicy-hesperidic ambergris (piquant and virile) and stuffy powdery/hesperidic earthiness. An "ethernal" aristocratic fragrance (evocative about Royal Gardens) which will make you lording over all the other "lofty-affected" banqueters at Royal Court.
18th January, 2017 (last edited: 19th January, 2017)

Fallen Leaves by Anna Zworykina Perfumes

I sampled half a dozen of the Zworykina perfumes, having read an approving review by Luca Turin. This was the one I could relate to the most.

Like Turin I am not normally enthusiastic about natural perfumes as they arguably impose an unnatural constraint on creativity. However, like him I feel they should be supported and encouraged along with home make cake and home brewed beer.

Fallen leaves does not smell precisely like fallen leaves; for some thoughts on how a more accurate rendering might may be attempted see the basenotes discussion. Without GCMS facilities it is probably very difficult. However, the Zworykina product does go some way towards meeting the concept in the abstract sense.

Smelling it blind (to avoid bias) I had the impression of a sophisticated lavender composition, like the mens fragrances of years ago. Probably with some lavender absolute, I thought. Reading the ingredient list I noted there is no lavender, though tonka is mentioned, which is possibly where the overlap occurred.

Overall, Fallen Leaves is a smooth and harmonious fragrance and pleasing to the senses, so I have given it the thumbs up. I remain to be convinced about all-natural perfumery, though.
18th January, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Ambre Fétiche by Annick Goutal

This opening blast is quite something! Burning smoky rubber, leather, hints of latex, some benzoin with resinous birchtar - a delightful blend of rough smoky leather. At that stage the amber is more like a backdrop on this dramatic olfactory canvas.

The core principle underlying the development of the drydown is: lose the rough edges gradually, introduce a floral component, mainly iris, and see the amber increase in intensity and its presence over time gradually. Over time this turns into a warm, glowing and smooth amber, which dominates the base and peters out gradually.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and an impressive ten hours of longevity on my skin.

The first stage is very convincing, albeit of less high quality than, for instance, Knize Ten, and with a somwhat contrived leather impression, but nonetheless well crafted. The later stages with the amber in the centre of their development are also lovely, but a bit more linear. Overall a rather nice product. 3.5/5.

18th January, 2017

Montana Parfum d'Homme (original) by Montana

Stardate 20170117:

I don't know what I can add here that has not already been covered by the ambassador of this fragrance Monsieur Montana.
It is a great masculine fragrance. As already pointed out by DuNezDeBuzier, this is similar to Havana in structure. I find some Jacomo de Jacomo in it too.
Patch, spices and manliness in a bottle that will not break the bank.
17th January, 2017

Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford

From start to finish I love this scent (my wife on the other hand HATES IT). Any who some scents I wear for my personal enjoyment. As for the scent... it is a stunner. Strong at the start with gourmandish spices and a sweet honey like tobacco... the middle is also an amazing mix of vanilla and tobacco with a hint of tonka and cocoa to my nose. The dry down of woods with lingering vanilla and tobacco is simply amazing. A scent that will remain in my collection for as long as it's made (even if the price is slightly prohibitive). Enjoy!
17th January, 2017

Midnight in the Palace Garden by 4160 Tuesdays

It's an oud perfume. Nothing groundbreaking if I'm honest, nothing too offensive either. In the dry down it turns from a strong oud to more of a woody number. I don't really notice the flower elements, there is a sweet element to it. I think its easily worn by both men and women, but it's not the most remarkable or interesting ouds there. It's nicely blended though

Longevity is surprising short, after 4 hours it became much harder to detect. I used about 0.5 ml so I'm surprised it goes so quickly.
17th January, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Jubilation 25 by Amouage

The opening notes, a brightish rose with ylang-ylang, davana and a hesperidic touch, are pleasant and well balanced with their sweetness that is not too heavy. The drydown adds whiffs of incense, tarragon and a slightly herbal cistus undertone.

The base adds a bit of a somewhat nondescript fruitiness, vetiver, but is also characterised by a very soft myrrhe compenent that is intertwined with a fairy generic soft patchouli.

I get moderate sillage, strong projection and eleven hours of longevity on my skin.

Thr first half of this autumnal creation, good especially for evenings, is dense and intensive, whilst the later parts are a touch less vivid and duller. Overall a nice creation and not without interesting ideas, and performing extremely well. 3.5/5.
17th January, 2017

Cambodi 10-yr Aged Oud by Abdul Samad Al Qurashi

Not a fragrance but a product of pure distillation. Another dark-smoky potion from this specialized "Middle Eastern perfumery brand" as product of pure distillations of woody resins formed as a result of natural infections affecting several species of Aquilaria (agarwood) evergreen trees. Along the time these infections naturally cause the trees to produce a really viscous resin as a by-product due to attack this infection. Oudh is the "outcome" of this "ancient" woody resins' distillation-process. Even in this case this arcane potion is mouldy as a dark cave studded inside by extinguished bonfires, mossy moulds, stale humidity and burnt odorous woody-rubbery resins. Just for the straightforward lovers of this "hard extreme" genre. A "fumidus" hyper dry woody potion (yet vaguely petroleous) a la Montale Dark Aoud (being the latter on the contrary anyway synthetic) but natural, far more realistic, stark and liturgically ritual. A stinky bitter-licoricey supremely woody "odor". A medieval kind of ghostly "miasma" heralding images of fortified citadels, steel swords, steamy castles, battlefields, warriors barbarians, bronze armatures and knights-errant.
16th January, 2017

Versace pour Homme Dylan Blue by Versace

Versace Pour Homme Dylan Blue is a spicy/woody/aquatic based on a central accord of piquant spices, citrus, violet, sharp salty woods and mineral ozonics. The first blast is like a photocopy of the "sadly departed" Byblos Uomo (this is the good news, many notes in common indeed: musk, bergamot, lavender, ambrox, violet, spices, patchouli, aromatic herbs, mineral-ozonic notes, sharp woods etc. I see in this phase also a tad of Chopard Heaven, Paco Rabanne Invictus, Bond N. 9 I Love NY for Him and Chanel Bleu) but after five minutes the mainstream stark salty-gassy woodiness (which is taking the world by storm by now) starts screaming out peppery-dusty (even more salty and gassy, like a crazy schizophrenic oceanic kind of Bvlgari Man Extreme ideally joined to a whichever "crunchy" Givenchy Gentlemen Only or Dior Sauvage) with my huge bored disappointment. Nothing more to add. Not for me.
16th January, 2017
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rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Vanille Tonka by Nicolaï

This vanilla-tonka dyad is the golden thread and core of this composition, enriched ny undertones if mandarine and orange flower that balance out the vanilla sweetness. Interestingly, whilst clearly sweet, this one in never sticky or cloying on my skin; it is endowed with a touch of slimness and elegance.

This opening mix sheds the citrus is the drydown, in order to replace it with a smooth and gentle frankincense, with a veil of a mildly honeyed cinnamon veil draped over it. With time the tonka - admixed with whiffs of the incense - wins out and becomes more dominant until the end.

The sillage is moderate, the projection is excellent and the longevity is a stupendous thirteen hours on my skin.

This scent for warmer winter days is smooth and comforting whilst never being heavy. During the first half is remains a bit too restrained and too thin, but with times it becomes more intensive. Whilst not ultra-creative, it is solidly made, some ingredients are of high quality, and the overall impression is on the positive side - but with a wafer-thin margin. 3.25/5.
16th January, 2017

Pierre Cardin Pour Monsieur by Pierre Cardin

The scent of Pour Monsieur EDT by Pierre Cardin has always been a guilty pleasure of mine.I'd wear it a lot then need a break from it.Even though it's an EDC now,and made by Five Star Fragrances...I don't catch any change.Still strong and very familiar,and it does have pretty good longevity.

This cologne has a base of resinous amber and earthy patchouli.That alone has a deep and raw sensual feel that may be outdated to some and others may say 'now that's where patchouli shines the most'.There's a little bit of orange,leather,a light teasing of cinnamon.A little bit of carnation floats up through the amber now and then with the cinnamon.These are all lighter notes while a few remain constant and light,some rise up and stand out wonderfully for a short time.At the time though Pour Monsieur was more costly as a made in France product (it's USA made now).That gave Coty a green light several years later to whip up a cut down version of it called 'Sex Appeal for Men' by Jovan.
15th January, 2017

Basic Instinct by Victoria's Secret

I find this perfume a faithful copy of Narciso Rodriguez only a little more on the sour side. Narciso R. has just a hint of a little sweetness which makes it superior to Basic Instict. It has great longevity and sillage. Sometimes, I couldn't tell the difference between one or the other, so I set out to spray one on one arm, and the other on the other arm, and compared. Narciso R. is more sophisticated, more complete and cohesive, thus a better choice if you want to buy one or the other. Overall, basic instinct is the cheaper way to acquire almost the same smell.
15th January, 2017

Incredible by Victoria's Secret

It's a nice simple perfume. Young and kind of sweet. Non-complicated and non-compromising. Just another typical frag. from Victoria's Secret. Sillage: so,so
staying power: not much
15th January, 2017

Bigelow Barber Cologne Elixir Blue No. 1580 by C.O. Bigelow Apothecary

Without much comment on the actual notes, I can say that this fragrance has gotten me more compliments than any other fragrance in my collection. Indeed, it is a clean scent. Reminds me a bit of a much more refined 'Sport Body Spray' that they have in the grocery stores.

Longevity is not great, and it has high sillage. Best applied in smaller amounts throughout the day.

I keep this in my desk drawer at work and apply it at lunch and on my way out for the evening.
15th January, 2017

Touch With Love for Men by Fred Hayman

This is the PERFECT fragrance to wear with a new white shirt! It smells clean and masculine!
15th January, 2017

Scandalous by Victoria's Secret

Scandalous is a sweet scent, sometimes too sweet. I have low tolerance for scents that are too sweet, but I can handle this one. As with everything V.S., you can't go wrong with it. It has its attractiveness. It's nice. Just handle with care because it tends to be too cotton candy-ish. The bottle is absolutely beautiful.
15th January, 2017

Perry Ellis m by Perry Ellis

Yes, very much like Allure Homme by the great house of Chanel.

Though I do prefer this much more so, why?


First off.....pricepoint, so much cheaper!

Second-darker, in my opinion, Allure has white flower notes like Jasmine, Gardenia and such along with peach making it not only softer but powdery.

Third: This is more masculine, Allure's white flower, peach and coconut notes give it a feminine leaning.

Fourth; long lasting and great projection.


As I write this it is the middle of winter here in the northern hemisphere and such a great time of year for Perry Ellis' M.
15th January, 2017

Old Spice Herbal by Shulton

Back in the mid 70's up until 1980..several companies tried to make herbal colognes.I recall Max Factor having an Herbal Musk cologne.I recall Aqua Velva having an Herbal after shave.Both of these scents had a very orchid or plant like quality to them.Old Spice Herbal is the most different and pleasant from it's competition.

To me this cologne was both equally heavy in white soap and tree moss.I get a little bit of sage from it...that's about it.Sharp,clean,and highly green.It never struck me as 'herbal' so this is a sub genre that may have to be revisited one day.But from Shulton it was a good smelling cologne through few notes.Nice and strong too!
15th January, 2017

Witness by Jacques Bogart

Despite the notes and high appraisal on Witness by Jacques Bogart please keep in mind that I'm a fan of this stuff.I wish Bogart would bring back this scent.BUT a few things to know about it...

*It's well crafted but a linear fragrance

*There is a sweetened chemical tone in this to the cinnamon...reminds me of nail polish(from the bottle).This could be the alcohol tweaking some edge in there but it's something people will like or find off-putting.

When I splash on Witness I get a really good cinnamon...probably the best cinnamon note I've ever smelled.It is very woodsy but think of late fall to early winter, as the leaves have died and fallen.You do get a little bit of florals that seem to sweep through the cinnamon.Occassionally there is a faint patchouli in this but I wish it came out more to lendy more muskiness.Witness isn't sharp of citrus,juniper,or built on a base of leather like Preferred Stock or Drakkar Noir.It could be formal if pulled off with the right look,but it's definitely aimed at casual wear.You can wear this on warm seasons I'd say go light on it.No clue why the house of Bogart discontinued this cologne other than more mainstream popularity came it from being recognized.
15th January, 2017

Allure Homme Sport by Chanel

Such a wonderful, tasteful retake of the original Allure Homme by Chanel!

AHS preserves the classiness of the oriental accords of the original - the Tonka, most notably - and adds a blue, watery character that is long-lasting and stable over time. Can be worn in nearly any occasion or weather, and evokes a sense of calm and confidence all day long!

Similar to Geir Ness and just as pleasant. AHS is a quiet legend in its own time!
15th January, 2017

My Ocean for Him by Club Med

My Ocean is a really pleasant, surprisingly good scent that defies its understated brand name, price and packaging.

Contains fragrance notes that I always am drawn to: Top Notes of Yuzu, Tangerine, Bergamot, and Cardamom;
Heart Notes of Mint, Juniper Berries, and Green Tea; and the Base notes with Cedarwood and Amber. Watery, tangy, fresh and pleasant overall from application to drydown and wear.

Great for warmer weather, perhaps for outings to the beach. ;^>
15th January, 2017

Blu pour Homme by Bulgari

A standout scent from Bulgari that definitely lives up to it's name (in appearance and subjective experience).

Blu pour Homme is like a velvet hammer, catching the senses immediately with the spicy wollop in the headnotes, mellowing out to the tobacco and juniper which keep the scent quite present. And the cedar and sandalwood hold as a steady base through which Blu makes its long landing.

May be a bit strong for some, in which case the "Blu Notte" flanker would be worth a sample.
15th January, 2017

Aqua pour Homme by Bulgari

When Aqua pour Homme first came out in 2005, I was instantly drawn to its watery, fresh marine quality and still enjoy it to this day. (I love the flankers, which spotlight existing elements of the original in impressive, distinct ways.)

Props to Jacques Cavallier for crafting such a wonderful "blue" scent that is still legitimate after over a decade.
15th January, 2017

Blu Notte pour Homme by Bulgari

Bulgari scents fascinate me greatly, esp. the flankers they steadily bring out.

Being a fan of the original Blu pour Homme, I found that Bulgari Blu Notte did a great job of rounding out the former by toning the strength down slightly and injecting some nice tobacco leaf into it. Still has the "blue" characteristic of the original, plus a more powdery-sweet accent that make it even more of a soft oriental men's fragrance.

Great flanker, and enjoyed it greatly.
15th January, 2017

Amazing for Men by Bill Blass

Like this one, although it wouldn't be the first scent that I'd grab on the go.

Amazing by Bill Blass has a strong citrus-musk quality, aided along by the ginger and sage notes in the heart. It's a decent fragrance that incorporates tangerine well, if that's a note you like.

Has a "young" wearer vibe to it, so as a 40-something guy I'd be rather picky as to when and where I'd put it on.



15th January, 2017

Bal à Versailles by Jean Desprez

I get floral for about 10 minutes, then animals for another 20, and then it's gone. Perhaps my sample was old (got it at a street fair) and therefore no longer very strong. This is nice, but doesn't last long enough for me to consider purchasing.
15th January, 2017
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