Fragrance Reviews from September 2005

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    elysium's avatar

    Australia Australia

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    Alessandro Dell'Acqua by Alessandro Dell'Acqua

    Gorgeous, delicate floral that's very feminine.
    A burst of sweet pea first hits you on the nose, before a heart of rose is revealed. Clean and slightly peppery, this fragrance never has a dull moment. Sensual and romantic.

    15 September, 2005

    eric's avatar

    Netherlands Netherlands

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    Baladin by Nicolaï

    Love this fragrance! together with New York,this one is fighting for becoming my nr1 favorite! Lemon and leather, a wonferfully ,masterly crafted combination. A good scent if you like leather in scents, but not too much.

    15 September, 2005

    j_dubyah's avatar

    United States United States

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    Cologne Blanche by Christian Dior

    I must begin this review by stating that, overall, I'm not that impressed by citrus scents. They all tend to revolve around the same grouping of ingredients with lemon or orange or something fruity usually dominating the parade. Now, of course this may be oversimplification as citrus scents are some of the most invigorating and refreshing as a category; however, as I've smelled quite a few, I have almost tended to grow a bit stale toward them as a group and certainly have shied away from their purchase. Then, along come this citrus scent Cologne Blanche by Dior. Now, I'm not saying I'd buy it, but it had a certain mellow, long-lasting charactor that most citrus scents lose quite rapidly given their ephemeral composition. The rosemary in this item disappears about midway in the process, but the neroli mixed ingeneously with the almond (a new one to me) works to elongate not only the luxury of the neroli or orange blossom, but lends a smooth and almost buttery nature to the whole base end of the product. It had only vague references to Acqua di Parma's Colonia Assolute, which had very mixed reviews, but I think that it because to be a genuine citrus scent fragrances have to definitely share certain key and easily identifiable notes. In the end, I would recommend this fragrance to those who are seeking to build a small collection who don't mind the price tag too much and are seeking excellent representation from all fragrance family groups.

    15 September, 2005

    j_dubyah's avatar

    United States United States

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    Eau Noire Cologne by Christian Dior

    The comparison of this fragrance with Annick Goutal's Sables is well noted and quite right; however, it must also be noted that there is a distinct similarity to a less sweet version of Bond 9's New Haarlem as well. Also there is a definite harmony between the two (who would have thought) that produces an odd hybrid accord that is quite magical. While this fragrance seems to blend some of the most common of fragrance ingredients, the output is unique enough to merit a purchase if one is comforatable with the price tag. Although evening wear might be the primary use of this product as some have said, I felt it yielded a rather positive dreamy quality throughout the day as I wore it. Lasts very well too so don't let the term cologne fool you in the name.

    15 September, 2005

    j_dubyah's avatar

    United States United States

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    Bois d'Argent Cologne by Christian Dior

    Isn't it odd how we sometimes make a snap comparison between two fragrance only to be humbled by a side by side comparison of the two? In my assessment and conversation on fragrance I often compare the notes and accords to something else that I know. In fact, I think we all do that to a certain degree. I was able to try Bois d'Argent as a sample included in a recent exchange and, at first, was very tempted to say that it was very similar to my last impression of Tamdao by Diptyque. However, after comparing them, one on one wrist and one on the other, I found the comparison to be weak at best. Bois d'Argent is dominated by a smooth woods accord, similar to a sandalwood heavy fragrance, that permeates the entire fragrance from beginning to end, but OH the subtle differences in between. The honey, myrrh, patchouli and very light spice intermingle so beautifully that by sitting and deeply inhaling the fragrance one could almost hit a euphoric high. Not only do they intermingle well, but, like a masterfully engineered fragrance, the different notes float to the top at different times and not on a specific schedule, but, it would seem, as a result of the temperature of the body or even the mood of the wearer. The leather note in this is very light, but very persistant and can best be smelled in the melange toward the late heart to base notes, at least this was the case with me. The slight wafts of myrrh come up from time to time to render an ever-so-slight impression of L'Artisan's Passage d'Enfer. In the end, this fragrance is only vaguely similar to Tamdao, which is dominated by a more straight forward sandalwood note in comparison and certainly by more vanilla in the end. While both are good and both last a very long time, Bois d'Argent bridges the gap into a superbly done fragrance that is sure to please the most discriminating olfactory palette.

    15 September, 2005

    Joshaugustt's avatar



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    Aigner Black for Men by Etienne Aigner

    if you like a solid, no nonsense, woody, warm scent, then this will fit the bill. It's not the usual water downed citrus scent, with lots of "warm" ingredients. It's a clean, strong, and solid new scent from aigner that may soon become a real "find". Try this...You may like it.

    15 September, 2005

    MonkeyManMatt's avatar

    Sweden Sweden

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    Alyssa Ashley Vanilla by Alyssa Ashley

    A bitter and sugary vanilla absolutely perfect for enhancing and layering with other scents. Very mono-note, so not so exciting on it's own, but that feature makes its so suitable to mix with other fragrances. Try for example layering it with Cacharel's Nemo, Lush's Prince or Helmut Lang. Accentuates other notes such as musk and different woods very nicely by adding a bitter-sweet vanilla dimension to them. Nothing feminine about it all btw.

    15 September, 2005

    MonkeyManMatt's avatar

    Sweden Sweden

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    Miss Dior Originale (previously Miss Dior) by Christian Dior

    My mother's signature fragrance since decades. And what a fine "oldie" she has chosen. Traditional chypre composition that I guess has defined the genre to a certain extent. It smells classy, green and floral and lasts forever. I think a man could pull this off, if applied extremely sparingly, afterall the drydown is very woody. The frosted bottle with the "dogtooth" pattern is a classic as well.

    15 September, 2005

    MonkeyManMatt's avatar

    Sweden Sweden

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    Rectoverso Mandarin Musk by Ulric de Varens

    Despite the horrible orange plastic bottle this is a great scent that deserved a much better fate. When I first sampled it, the house of Bulgari instantly came to mind. RMM has that same playful, light vibe that is so typical of many Bulgari creations. I'm sure there is some tea in here as well. The scent goes from a pleasant neroli and mandarin top to a slightly sweet and musky drydown that lingers for a very long time. Shortly, if you see this scent somewhere, be sure to try it. A very unknown gem.

    15 September, 2005

    MonkeyManMatt's avatar

    Sweden Sweden

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    Allure Homme by Chanel

    In many ways a great end to the 90's. A decade that unforunately, and this is my private and subjective opinion, signaled the begining of a large-scale demise of the perfumery world. Of course created by master nose Polge, Allure stands as evidence that new ideas and concepts can be explored without losing the quality and feeling of consistency within a house. I'd say Allure was very original upon it's launch. Although not a gourmand per se, it is very strong and the tonka beans give it a sweet, powerful aura. There is also a persistent pepper accord that enhances an incredibly masculine feeling midst all the sweetness. I dismissed it's little brother, the sport version, when that came out. But I've reconsidered since the, even buying a bottle. The Sport edition tones down some of the original strength, but also adds a lovely milky note (similar to the one found in Diesel's ++) that sets it apart enough to own both.

    15 September, 2005

    MonkeyManMatt's avatar

    Sweden Sweden

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    cK be by Calvin Klein

    Flawless skin musk. The quintessential "anti-fragrance", blending with skin in minutes creating a faint but very pleasant juniper/white musk aura. Sure it's light, but this is the main idea. A scent that can be worn at ALL times, even if you're in a temporary fragrance burnout period or had a sensory overload due to Diptyque's vicious L'Autre =) . Great bottle as well, even more appealing than the original "One" version. A classic in all of it's simplicity.

    15 September, 2005

    MonkeyManMatt's avatar

    Sweden Sweden

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    Eau d'Hadrien by Annick Goutal

    A zesty fresh citrus classic that would could/should be mentioned together with the heavyweights like Eau Sauvage, Signoricci, Orange Verte and Monsieur Balmain. But just Like the aforementioned Hermès, EdH unfortunately struggles with severe longeviy issues. Strenghtwise it's definitely more a cologne than EdT. Too bad on such a natural-smelling lovely fragrance. Check out the Absolu version which is stronger, or the Les Nuits edition which is alltogether a different scent, both great alternatives.

    15 September, 2005

    MonkeyManMatt's avatar

    Sweden Sweden

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    Higher by Christian Dior

    Superb "post-modern" bottle, boring "modern" fragrance. I have a personal grudge with pear as a note and Burberry London is the only blend (I can think of now) that makes it tolerable. Cerruti Image, Perry Ellis Portfolio and yes, Dior's Higher are all ruined by this strange, edgy fruit-note. The overall is impression is a sharp one, not very balanced. Higher smells almost acidic, very sour at least. Good sillage for a post 2000 release, but it doesn't help unfortunately as the juice leaves so much to be desired.

    15 September, 2005

    MonkeyManMatt's avatar

    Sweden Sweden

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    Jules by Christian Dior

    Jules suffers from that 80's thickness that is just too much. Like Drakkar Noir, the original Van gils etc, Jules is very uncompromising in it's herbal, dry and arid composition. I do enjoy the leathery basenotes that are perfect, overall it's a very high quality scent. It's just to extreme in its dark, woody ruggedness, let some light in please...

    15 September, 2005

    MonkeyManMatt's avatar

    Sweden Sweden

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    L'Autre by Diptyque

    Most certainly the premier atrocity of the fragrance world. This is the most putrid, reeking, sweat-infused brew of nasty BO one could ever imagine. Cumin-overload, words cannot describe the horrors contained in the stylish graphic bottle. This could be used as some kind of chemical weapon for sure. Horrendous. Surrealistically vile. An absolute abomination.

    15 September, 2005

    MonkeyManMatt's avatar

    Sweden Sweden

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    L'Ombre dans L'Eau by Diptyque

    Although I really enjoy the smell of this oldie I, can't help to think it's better suited for the ladies. I was given a generous sample of it at Skins in Amsterdam (one of the worlds finest fragrance stores, IMO) and the friendly sales-woman said she loved the smell of this on men. So I gave L'Ombre dans L'Eau many wearings. I will say it contains the perhaps purest, most lovely rose I've ever experienced in liquid form. And maybe it's this strong floral character that makes me a little uncertain of it's masculine appropriateness. It shares a similar blackcurrant accord with Creed's Silver Mountain Water, making it very fresh and crisp. Probably the perfect scent for a 25-30 year old professional woman during spring and early summer. However not very unisex at all.

    15 September, 2005

    MonkeyManMatt's avatar

    Sweden Sweden

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    Between Sheets by Van Gils

    Very generic neroli/vanilla mix. Same style as Roma, Minotaure etc, but inferior. For some reason Van Gils fragrances are very popular here in Sweden, I don't know why since they're decent at best. This company makes nice shirts and should stick to that, raincheck Between Sheets and the rest!

    15 September, 2005

    MonkeyManMatt's avatar

    Sweden Sweden

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    Basic Instinct by Van Gils

    Van Gils feeble attempt to cash in on the Acqua di Gio bandwagon. As much as I dislike that Armani, it is miles better qualitywise than this cheap copy. Just another good looking bottle with utterly pointless contents.

    15 September, 2005

    pottlegirl's avatar



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    Fleur de Peau by Keiko Mecheri

    Many have loved this scent, which is why I'm reluctant to give a thumbs-down. Maybe my sample was stale or something, but this perfume could have been great. It was like a peach--like the velvety fuzzy skin of a peach, with floral accompaniment and a warm drydown. However, it went off on my skin, with a jagged boozy edge and a cloying heat. try before you buy!

    15 September, 2005

    pottlegirl's avatar



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    Biche Dans l'Absinthe by Gobin Daudé

    Pros: Daring, unique scent, redolent of cumin and hay (maybe tobacco?), 'cooks' on the skin to lose some of the initial harshness and become warm like a clean barn (the name means Doe among the Absinthe)
    Cons: Cumin.And sharp grassy/herbal smell. And Cumin. I like it, but in this quantity it can be a bit much, even though it never crosses over into BO. Also, 135 is WAY too much for anything short of MKK, PoTL, or a pure parfum.
    These balance out for me, and I wear my decant once in a blue moon, so neatral it is.

    15 September, 2005

    pottlegirl's avatar



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    Sève Exquise by Gobin Daudé

    Thumbs WAY up! This is my absolute favorite of the Gobin-Daude line, which has become virtually impossible to find in the US. It's called "exquisite sap" for a good reason--it is beyond exquisite, a gentle, fresh, tender green scent like the beginning of spring, like new growth. It wafts softly and remains rounded and gentle throughout its evolution, never becoming a harsh chypre nor too-fresh ozonic: it begins almost lemony-creamy, and frsh-leafy, and continues to a green place that is not so much green woods as truly 'sap'-like, sweet and golden-green....it takes me to a wonderful place, lying on soft grass looking up at the sunlight filtering through a lush leafy canopy rustling gently in the breeze....

    15 September, 2005

    pottlegirl's avatar



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    Nuit au Désert by Gobin Daudé

    My favorite after Seve Exquise, this scent is a morpher and also quite unique. It begins cool and smoky and woody (agarwood, I think--a harsher, smoky, non-spicy wood) . The smoke here actually smells like cigarettes for a few minutes, more so than anything else (eg Tea For Two by L'artisan). It then blends with 'desert blooms'--I can't tell what, but these florals are deep and almost fruity, and play in the smoke beautifully. Not heady, not warm, not a skin-scent but not typically 'perfumy' either, this scent is, for lack of a better term, unique. It is very evocative, like SE, of actually being somewhere else and having an experience (ie a desert evening, smelling campfires, wind, and plants). I think distribution and possibly production were halted because they did not have much mass appeal. That could also have to do with the outrageous price and lack of advertising, but there is something to it--I don't think this would ever be someone's everyday signature scent. But it is beautiful, if somewhat fleeting.

    15 September, 2005

    ricodacar's avatar



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    Andron For Women by Jovan

    I love Andron and I hate that it has been discontinued. I used to weare it all the time. I would receive lots of compliments from men and women when I would wear this. I love it! I want to find out where I could buy it.

    15 September, 2005

    ricodacar's avatar



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    Jovan Woman by Jovan

    I wear this all the time. I receive lots of compliments when wearing it, about how good I smell. The price is very affordable too! It is becoming hard to find though. Love it.

    15 September, 2005

    ShankBone's avatar



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    Effusion for Him by Iceberg

    A light, woodsy and fresh scent. Very close to the skin and subtle, so it's a light intimate fragrance. Unfortunately it doesn't last very long, unless whoever is smelling it is within at least 2 or so feet of you. But if you are around women it's a great scent that should rarely overwhelm anyone.

    15 September, 2005

    tigrushka's avatar

    Finland Finland

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    parfums*PARFUMS Series 7 Sweet: Burnt Sugar by Comme des Garçons

    Burnt Sugar is a perfect bedtime scent, soothing like a bowl of hot milk, sweetened with honey and enjoyed with spicy cookies. Warm, fuzzy, cuddly and comforting, like your favourite teddy bear.

    15 September, 2005

    calchic's avatar



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    Tuscany per Donna by Estee Lauder

    Something about this is just too blaring for my taste. It bears fleeting similarities to Fendi (the orginal) in its fruity sweetness but, unlike the Fendi, this lacks grace and finesse. If Fendi is the equivalent of a glorious meal enjoyed in Rome, Tuscany per Donna is a meal partaken in the Italian section of Disneyworld's International pavilion; there's something inauthentic and overbearing in the quality of the ingredients and particularly the vanilla. In fact, one of the closest fragrance matches I can think of for this is something called Dulce Vanilla by Coty, a truly loud concoction of spices and bad vanilla. And like the Dulce Vanilla, Tuscany per Donna is capable of sticking around forever; one spray will take you well into next week, it's that strong.

    16 September, 2005

    calchic's avatar



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    L'Eau D'Issey by Issey Miyake

    L'Eau D'Issey has always been a bit of an enigma to me; in my head I always think of it as "that melon and black pepper scent" and then am always so surprised when I go back, review the notes and remember that it contains neither. I believe it's the spicy, somewhat peppery carnation and watery-fruit combination of lotus and osmanthus that create this impression; the actual florals in it have always been barely perceptible to my nose. As for the basenotes, I think L'Eau d'Issey was a first in bringing out very soft, suedelike woods as a platform for clear, aquatic notes; so many fragrances since have been structured along similar lines. I remember that when this fragrance first launched, I was immediately struck by its uniqueness and actually wore it exclusively as my signature scent (okay, it was only for a few months but still!) Today, I don't wear it often at all precisely because it has been so widely imitated and no longer smells so different, but I still think it deserves its due as an original.

    16 September, 2005

    calchic's avatar



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    Chaldée (original) by Jean Patou

    Chaldee is simultaneously retro and modern, if that makes sense. Its modernity lies in its simplicity - there are only a handful of notes involved (orange blossom, hyacinth, narcissus, jasmine, opoponax, amber, spices) and they combine to create a clean, spicy and warm blend. The retro aspect has more to do with the imagery Chaldee brings to mind for me; specifically, Cairo in the 30s a la "The English Patient." This IS the scent Katharine Clifton wore, I'm convinced of it. It's a fine-boned variety of exotic, delicately defiant, a fragile bloom fighting to live in the middle of the desert.

    16 September, 2005

    calchic's avatar



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    Eau de Patou (original) by Jean Patou

    The ideal in truly chic summer scents, and what makes it different from so many others that are similar - i.e. hesperides-based - is the presence of petitgrain as a topnote. Petitgrain is powdery sweet and has a very cooling feel, and here it plays against the citron and orange so that you get a splash of tartness and a dusting of talcum. Black pepper and nasturtium lend a little spark and character, and the body of the fragrance comes from a very smooth moss-amber-labdanum base rounded with basically imperceptble dashes of musk and civet that are there simply to help out the staying power, which is more than decent for a hesperides. I've gone through two bottles of this fragranve and definitely consider it a hot weather staple; it's magnificent.

    16 September, 2005

    Showing 331 to 360 of 1279.