Fragrance Reviews from September 2005

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    Mugler Cologne by Thierry Mugler

    Cologne is a must own summer fragrance. It’s great for those days that you either don’t want to, or shouldn’t wear cologne. It’s very soapy, and very fresh. I use it as a mist on hot summer days. It’s almost impossible to over apply, and it’s very long lasting.

    18 September, 2005

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    Crown Fougère by Crown Perfumery

    Man, I don’t know what to think. A part of my really likes this earthy blend, but there is also something very unpleasant lurking around in a medicinal sort of way. It’s slightly green with dry earthy accords. It’s just got this weird toothpaste like note that kind of throws me off.

    18 September, 2005

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    Douce Amère by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Douce Amere is a very nice Oriental with the traditional Lutens touch. I always associate ‘purple’ with this fragrance. Douce Amere is a very mysterious and pretty thick. Anise and powdery coco take center stage in this blend. My only complain is that it’s a lot sweeter than it is bitter. Other than that, this is what Lolita Lempicka for men would be like if Serge Lutens re-did it.

    18 September, 2005

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    Eau des Îles by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

    This is one of the most imaginative fragrances in the entire MPG line. Eau des Iles is an exotic blend of heady spices, wood, and coffee. This fragrance is a dream in a bottle; I am transported to an early far away tropical island bursting at the seams with commerce. The coffee and spices play perfectly on this theme, which are blended with heady patchouli and wood to create a fragrance that is as exotic as it is balanced. Eau des Iles is perfectly suited for a humid night.

    18 September, 2005

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    Fraîche Badiane by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

    I actually just got this one. Throughout the entire life of the fragrance, Lemon plays a very large role. I must say, this is NOT what I expected. The anise never really shows itself, and it smells a lot like Aqua de Parma mixed with Kouros. Not my cup of tea, but a very elegant and understated citrus fragrance.

    18 September, 2005

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    Garrigue by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

    Garrigue is a slightly herbaceous, woody, and citrus blend. Personally, I find this fragrance far from ground breaking. It’s a wonderful fragrance for those hot summer days. It’s well balanced, but the theme has been done far too many times. I own a bottle of this and do enjoy wearing it, but I don’t think I would replace my bottle.

    18 September, 2005

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    Iris Bleu Gris by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

    Iris Bleu Gris is a rich, edgy, and sweet iris interpretation. It’s got a very woody and slightly sweet base. This does not smell like a fragrance dominated by floral notes. Rather, Iris Bleu Gris comes off as a very woody fragrance with Iris nuances throughout. Very true to the MPG style; well balanced, and very elegant.

    18 September, 2005

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    Jardin du Nil by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

    Jardin du Nil is one of the most beautiful floral fragrances I have ever smelled. It’s mostly floral, but incredibly masculine. Jardin du Nil was made when LaPorte was at a delta in the nile; he observed the odor of geraniums in the hot sun. Jardin du Nil has a depth that most other floral fragrances don’t. You can smell the subtle nuances in the geranium, all while it’s offset by a lush and ripe mint. Jardin du Nil smells like nothing else on the market. Multifaceted floral notes contrasted by mint create Jardin du Nil.

    18 September, 2005

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    Jazz by Yves Saint Laurent

    Jazz is a very interesting aromatic floral. It’s perfect for basically every season, but seems best suited for summer. It’s a rich floral fragrance that leaves behind the traditional ‘stuffiness’ and rigidity that is found in floral fragrances from this era. Jazz is suave and vivacious. I love it.

    18 September, 2005

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    Live Jazz by Yves Saint Laurent

    Live Jazz is one of my summer staples. There is nothing as chilling and cold as Live Jazz. It’s a brilliant blend of cilantro, mint, and citrus. There is nothing that says summer nearly as well. It’s electrifying. The only downside is that during the final hours of its life, it fades to a slightly sweet, light, woody drydown that doesn’t do the top and mid notes justice.

    18 September, 2005

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    Muscs Koublaï Khän by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    MKK is such a warm and dirty fragrance. It smells so alive, like it is coming off of a hot animal or person. MKK also has a very odd vegetable influence, which gives it an almost sour nature. It dries down to something that is warm, dirty, and slightly floral. This is the ULTIMATE musk fragrance. There is nothing like it, and nothing better.

    18 September, 2005

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    Parfum d'Habit by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

    I once saw a member here describe this as dark green. Dark green sums up Parfum d’Habit perfectly. Parfum d’Habit is a very blend of vetiver, sandalwood, and leather. This fragrance has the texture and color of rough dark green wool. It’s rough, earthy and dirty. The sandalwood compliments the leather perfectly. This is a very mysterious fragrance that is reminiscent of a dark, foggy forest.

    18 September, 2005

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    Racine by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

    This is what Guerlains Vetiver should have been. Racine is a luxurious and dry vetiver blended skillfully with sparkling andfresh citrus notes. The beauty of Racine lies with its balance of vetiver and citrus. There is no other vetiver and citrus blend that can maintain this much balance throughout the drydown. Racine is rich, dry, elegant, and perfect year round.

    18 September, 2005

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    Route du Vétiver by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

    This fragrance is a little more difficult to describe. Route du Vetiver is off putting at first. It’s a very ripe and humid blend. To me, Route du Vetiver reminds me of vetiver with a dark, earthy, fragrant cloud surrounding it. This is not a sparking or dry vetiver like most. Route du Vetiver smells like wet soil, upturned vetiver, with a slight hint of berries thrown in the mix. The most off putting and unique vetiver blend out there. This is a must try for any vetiver lover.

    18 September, 2005

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    Santal de Mysore by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Santal de Mysore is SO unique. It’s like no other sandalwood fragrance ever made. The sandalwood doesn’t really take center stage in this fragrance. Instead, the opening notes are dominated by a thick and heavy carmel like accord, and the drydown is very heavy in cumin. This fragrance is really a sum of all its parts. It’s rich, sweet, spicy, and woody. An amazing lutens creation that must be tried.

    18 September, 2005

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    Santal Noble by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

    This is probably the best woody fragrance ever created. While this is not a linear pure sandalwood fragrance, it is pure brilliance. Santal Noble is a beautiful blend of Sandalwood, Cedar wood, Amber, and Coffee. Santal Noble is incredibly rich, but its richness is offset by its dry nature. This is an amazingly dynamic fragrance that evolves every second it’s on the skin. Santal Noble is a fragrance that plays out like a battle. At first, the Amber and Cedar wood fight with the Sandalwood for dominance, but as the fragrance dries down, the sandalwood slowly wins the battle until finally, all you smell is rich creamy sandalwood with slight and distant hints amber and cedar wood. I don’t know how LaPorte created such a balanced fragrance and maintained such conflict throughout the drydown. Santal Noble is perfect.

    18 September, 2005

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    Secret Mélange by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

    Secret Mélange is one of the easier Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier fragrances to wear, but that doesn’t mean its any less unique than any of the others. This is a wonderfully elegant and artistic fragrance. Imagine a burning orange grove consumed by flames. Imagine the fire is put out by a hard spring rain, and now imagine the aroma of fresh cloves permeating the air from the recent rain. Add all these odors together and you have Secret Mélange. There is really nothing like it.

    18 September, 2005

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    Ungaro I by Ungaro

    Ungaro I is the best of the Ungaro’s, in my opinion. It’s very hard to describe Ungaro I. I always resort to color and texture to describe this amazing fragrance. It smells VERY red, unmistakably red, and it has a very smooth almost plasticy texture. It’s one of my very special occasion fragrances. My wardrobe would not be complete without it.

    18 September, 2005

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    Ungaro II by Ungaro

    Ungaro II is kind of a let down for me. With Ungaro I being as amazing as it is and Ungaro III also being one of a Kind, Ungaro II just kind of falls flat. It’s a direct copy of Chanel PMC. It’s a musty and stuffy citrus fragrance loaded with civet. Not my cup of tea at all.

    18 September, 2005

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    Ungaro III by Ungaro

    Ah yes!! Ungaro III. Ungaro III is amazing. The best men’s rose dominated fragrance I have come across. It’s very smooth and seductive, yet dark and brooding at the same time. It is also incredibly versatile and wearable. This is scent is my best date fragrance, and is one of the most romantic in my wardrobe. This compliments a candle light dinner perfectly.

    18 September, 2005

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    Yohji Homme by Yohji Yamamoto

    Yohji Homme is amazing. It’s probably one of my favorite designer gourmands, right up there with Angel. Anise makes this boozy gourmand very interesting; in fact, I’ll go as far as saying that this is what Lolita Lempicka should have been. A very dynamic fragrance that is truly unique.

    18 September, 2005

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    Rock Water by Un Monde Nouveau

    I don't even know I came upon a bottle of this stuff, but I love it. It smells almost exactly like cream soda. Very playful and fun.

    18 September, 2005

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    M7 by Yves Saint Laurent

    M7 was my third fragrance, and it holds a very special place in my heart. As I progressed with my fragrance hobby, M7 smelled different to me; it became much better with each wearing. It’s a rich, sweet, and powdery fragrance with dark and velvety accords that are accented by earthy accords. It’s a must own for everyone. It’s amazing to think a designer actually put this fragrance out with the current market the way it is.

    18 September, 2005

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    Vetiver Oriental by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Vetiver Oriental is my favorite Vetiver interpretation. Most of the vetiver fragrances on the market are just a bit too boring. Most smell just like a vetiver essential oil with a little bit of citrus mixed in. Vetiver Oriental, on the other hand, is a deep, rich, and complex vetiver based fragrance. With hints of dry coco, this is a sensual and exotic vetiver.

    18 September, 2005

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    Chergui by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Chergui is one of the most beautiful honey based fragrances I have come across. It’s very rich and full bodied. There are notes of hay and spices that offset the sweetness beautifully. This is a very warm and well blended fragrance. One of Lutens best.

    18 September, 2005

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    Fumerie Turque by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Fumerie Turque is my favorite Serge Lutens fragrance. It’s a rich and smoky fragrance with hints of rose that are barely tangible through the thick and rich smoky tobacco notes. It’s not really sweet per se, but it has just enough to make it the richest and deepest oriental I’ve ever smelled. It’s all put together by a warm boozy base. There is nothing like it.

    18 September, 2005

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    Chinatown by Bond No. 9

    Chinatown is a very nice white floral fragrance with a lot of sweetness thrown in to offset everything. I can’t help but feel that it’s more of a vanillic fragrance with hints of white floral notes. I smell a kind of peppery note buried very deep in the blend, but nothing ever really comes of it; the sweet drydown takes over everything this. To me, this is what Angeliques Sous la Pluie would smell like if it were made for 17 year old girls. Is it nice? Yes. Is it worth 178 dollars? Absolutely not.

    18 September, 2005

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    Miel de Bois by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    I am a huge honey fan. Ever since I was tiny one of my favorite treats were those plastic tubes filled with honey. I’ve got a few wonderful honey based fragrances (Chergui, Mechant Loup, etc), but nothing I have smelled ever really captured the true essence of honey, the way I know and remember it. Let me start out by saying I have never smelled a fragrance like this in my entire life. This smells exactly like fresh unprocessed honey stored in a wooden jar. The honey accord in Miel de Bois is not overwhelming, heavy, or cloying; it’s a fresh and raw honey that smells as sweet as it does alive. This honey accord is balanced with a very dry wood, which also keeps Miel de Bois from being anywhere near cloying. Miel de Bois is also very long lasting. This is the best honey fragrance I have ever smelled. It’s definitely in my top 5! Wow.

    18 September, 2005

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    Frank No. 1 by Frank Los Angeles

    Recently purchased this one and I am quite impressed. It is very fresh, very ozoney, quite minty at first, but at the same time woody and dark. It is a great office scent, not at all overbearing while still being noticeable. Frank of Los Angeles lists the notes as follows;
    grapefruit, lemon, cassis, tagette, angelica seed, ginger root, clove, cardamon, peppermint, green tea, ylang ylang, galbanum, sandalwood

    18 September, 2005

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    Van Cleef & Arpels pour Homme by Van Cleef & Arpels

    Just picked this one up yesterday and all I can say is Fantastic! I went to dinner and all I could do is keep smelling my wrist =). I must of looked like a nut.

    18 September, 2005

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