Fragrance Reviews from September 2005

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    IPaidForThisName's avatar



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    L'Eau d'Ambre Extrême / Ambre Extrême by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    This is a very interesting Ambre interpretation. There are floral notes in this fragrance that aren’t present in most other Ambre fragrances. Ambre Extrême is also plagued by what most people call a playdough note. I am must agree with them. There is an accord in this fragrance that smells eerily similar to playdough. This isn’t a bad thing, though. I love this fragrance.

    29 September, 2005

    IPaidForThisName's avatar



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    L'Eau d'Ambre by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I don’t know why this is even sold, when Ambre Extreme is such a superior fragrance. This is basically just a watered down, short lived version of most Amber fragrances on the market. It almost seems like the Amber doesn’t even really take Center stage. I’d recommend the Ambre Extreme over this.

    29 September, 2005

    IPaidForThisName's avatar



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    Vanilia by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I agree that Vanilia is the most refined and complex vanilla. It’s really a treat to wear. While most vanilla is sweet and cloying, Vanilia is smoky, rich, and complex. It’s a great fragrance for winter.

    29 September, 2005

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    Mojito by Demeter Fragrance Library

    One of the best drinks ever made! This is a great refreshing, minty, and exotic ‘pick me up’ fragrances. Like all demeters, this could be a little more well made, but for the price, it’s great. My favorite drink rendition by Demeter.

    29 September, 2005

    levente's avatar

    United States United States

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    Bel Ami by Hermès

    Another '80s powerhouse, Bel Ami has the added distinction of being unique. A spicy leather with some floral notes, Hermes calls this their "bedroom scent". Long lasting, with great sillage and of typical Hermes quality, it can be an acquired taste for some. Me, I loved it from the get-go. Any fragrance enthusiast owes it to himself to at least sample it.

    29 September, 2005

    levente's avatar

    United States United States

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    Eau d'Orange Verte by Hermès

    One of my favorite citrus scents. Like most of its kind, it doesn't last forever, but it is no worse than most. Also, it was formulated to be non-staining on clothes, so don't be afraid to spritz a little on your shirt or t-shirt. Extremely natural smelling and of superior quality, this is a great luxury that won't smash the piggy bank. As has been noted, use of the full product line does help the scent last, but then it really DOES start to get expensive.

    29 September, 2005

    levente's avatar

    United States United States

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    Eau de Guerlain by Guerlain

    Eau de Guerlain reminds me of the original Eau de Rochas (NOT the Eau de Rochas pour Homme) minus the grapefruit. Very dry and subdued citrus that has that old world style typical of Guerlain. Very good for office wear in the summer, particularly for the mature individual who doesn't want something trendy.

    29 September, 2005

    levente's avatar

    United States United States

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    Eau du Coq by Guerlain

    Light and very refreshing, this one pulls a very rapid disappearing act. And I'm not one that usually complains about longevity. I found myself constantly refreshing, to the point that I used a 100ml bottle in record time. Definitely unisex, worthy of audition if you want something exceedingly discrete.

    29 September, 2005

    levente's avatar

    United States United States

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    Héritage by Guerlain

    I own both the EDT and the EDP, and while I prefer the EDP, the EDT still satisfies. An old world fragrance of vanilla, cedar and patchouli that belies its 1992 introduction. Classy and sophisticated, this one has the added bonus of working on a wide number of people, making it a great choice for a gift.

    29 September, 2005

    levente's avatar

    United States United States

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    Jacomo de Jacomo by Jacomo

    A few years back, a new fragrance advertised itself as "patchouli and spice, updated", or some such similar nonsense. I thought, why would we need this, when we have Jacomo de Jacomo? It has been in my wardrobe since the early 1980s, and I wear it when I want something masculine and confident. Very spicy with cinammon and cloves and smoky from the patchouli, it is an excellent choice in cooler weather. And that new fragrance? I tried it and for the life of me can't remember what it was.

    29 September, 2005

    levente's avatar

    United States United States

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    Patou pour Homme (original) by Jean Patou

    This really is the bomb. Deep and rich, it is a superb oriental of unsurpassed complexity that develops fantastically on the skin. A beacon in the world of fragrance. How could Patou have discontinued this? Even if it didn't sell in volume, there are a number of devotees who would doubtlessly make it worth Patou's while to produce an occasional batch.

    29 September, 2005

    levente's avatar

    United States United States

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    Rocabar by Hermès

    Of Hermes' main line of colognes for men (Equipage, Bel Ami and Rocobar), Rocobar is the easiest to like but perhaps the most difficult to love. It's a snap to get one's nose around it, as it is a smooth blend of vanilla, cedar, pine and juniper, of good construction and excellent quality. Equipage and Bel Ami can be a little off-putting at first, for different reasons (Equipage starts off floral with carnation, and Bel Ami begins smoky and rough), but their development is more enticing. Nevertheless, Rocabar is a worthy addition to the line, and an excellent present to those who are less adventurous in their fragrance choices.

    29 September, 2005

    levente's avatar

    United States United States

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    Tabaróme Millésime by Creed

    To me, the vaunted Creed quality is most in evidence in new Tabarome. The ginger, tea and Virginia tobacco notes are just so pure and natural. Without a doubt my favorite Creed of the past 15 years. Leans more towards the formal side, something to be worn to a board meeting or a black tie event. Best in cooler weather.

    29 September, 2005

    levente's avatar

    United States United States

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    Vetiver by Guerlain

    Allow me to weigh in on the controversy regarding the change in formula. Did Guerlain change the formula? Of course they did! The newer one has more citrus, and the notes have been technicolored. Now, the pepper, tobacco and cedar explode off the skin, whereas the older formula is a smoother blend. But the new one is nevertheless great. Complex, bracing and constantly developing (my father, who is no connoisseur, told me that GV keeps changing on his skin throughout the day), JP Guerlain's great masterpiece continues to entice. Notice to Guerlain: bring back the original as "Vetiver Classic" and most fans of this fragrance would own both!

    29 September, 2005

    loungeboy's avatar

    United States United States

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    Kiehl's Original Musk by Kiehl's

    The antithesis to today’s omnipresent “fresh and aquatic” fragrances, the magnificent Kiehl’s Musk EdT is unabashedly down, dirty and musky. For those of us to have lived through any part of the 60’s or 70’s when musk and patchouli oils were the last word in scent, Kiel’s musk is instantly nostalgic. Wear it and you are transported back to the world of jeans, fringed leather vests and peace symbol pendants with Laura Nero records on the record player. If that time isn’t in your frame of reference, this not wholly masculine aroma might even remind you of your mother’s finest musk based perfume. Heck there are even references in this smell to your first bottle of Jovan Musk.
    Initially this scent may seem quite “in your face” but eventually settles to wear very close to the skin. Amazingly, this quite assertive scent is also quite multidimensional.
    Out the bottle there is musk mixed with an almost overpowering rose note. As the alcohol fades, you immediately notice patchouli kicking up her heels and begin a dance with the rose. Occasionally you notice a slightly sharp lily note trying to cut in, but it is basically the rose and patchouli tango with musk providing the music. This pas de trois lasts quite a while and after an hour or so they start to take a rest leaving the musk to play on with lily still twirling through occasionally. Kiehl’s says there are orange blossoms, bergamot and ylang ylang in the mix and these bring an occasional clean soapy smell to the mix which, although not necessarily “fresh”, is still quite refreshing.
    At its heart, this is a musk fragrance. Make no mistake. This is not “white” or powdery and if you are not sure if you like true musk scents, you should not buy this blind. Even though it is synthetic or botanical in origin here, the “animal” quality found in true musk is still present. When I read that people smell sweat or barnyards or old ladies in this scent, I believe them! A lot of my enjoyment of musk based fragrances comes from the associations they bring with them. Luckily for me, all of the associations are happy, warm and nostalgic. Without those references for me, I shudder to think of what connections my brain would be making between the musky smell and objects or events.
    I won’t even pretend to be able to discuss the intricacies of personal chemistry and resulting smell, but this will play a part in your enjoyment of this or any scent.
    Kiehl’s Musk Edt may turn out to be your signature, or simply your weekend with jeans and a t-shirt scent. Anyway you can appreciate it, be happy you were able to find this treasure. Three cheers for Kiehl’s! They could have just as easily consigned this to memory and come out with a more sure fire commercial “scent of the moment”. They have my enduring thanks at their decision not to.

    29 September, 2005

    MonkeyManMatt's avatar

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    Canoé by Dana

    Musky, powdery oldie which is a nice "everyday" wear. A little citrus in the opening, but quickly goes into a honeyed talcum mode, much thanks to the heliotrope in the base I guess. I don't find it very woody like the others, it reminds me more of the subtle bitter-sweetness of the original Tabac. This due to a good deal of carnation in both.

    29 September, 2005

    MonkeyManMatt's avatar

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    Nomad / Moroccan Myrrh by Crabtree & Evelyn

    C&E's shaving products are some of the finest on the market. I believe it is an american company(?) but the whole range is a high quality one in the steps of the traditional english barbershop represented by houses like Trumper, D.R. Harris and Truefitt & Hill. The Nomad fragrance is a very orthodox sandalwood, with supporting notes of teak and bamboo. Naturally the blend comes across as very woody, and is best worn for formal occassions. Layering it with the excellent shower gel significantly increases the otherwise moderate longevity.

    29 September, 2005

    MonkeyManMatt's avatar

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    Sienna by Crabtree & Evelyn

    Sienna is a herbal, leathery melange that leaves a calorific trail. It sports much more character than it's sibling Sienna. Beautiful presentation like always with Crabtree. The new design can be viewed here: http://store.crabtree-evelyn.com/sie218000.html .
    Spicy, warm juice, but strict as well, ideal under a white shirt and bespoke suit.

    29 September, 2005

    MonkeyManMatt's avatar

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    Céline pour Homme by Céline

    The art nouveau-ish bottle by design-guru Thierry de Baschmakoff is unfortunately wasted on quite trivial contents. The juice is close to DKNY Men (the skyscraper bottle) and woodily boring. Annick Mennardo has been the nose of many fine blends in the past, like Lolita Lempicka and Bulgari Black. Apparently she was either out of inspiration or on strict orders from the Celine people when creating this one. Just the usual citrus/woods + a dash of spice mix here. Save your money.

    29 September, 2005

    Quarry's avatar

    United States United States

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    Bulgarian Rose by Fresh

    Some of us must be wired differently when it comes to "reading" rose scents. I'm almost nauseated by rose water. To me, real roses smell akin to a freshly grated, sweet carrot. I tried to like Fresh Bulgarian rose--I tried like a cowboy tries to ride a bucking bronco--but by the time I walked from Sephora to Barnes & Noble in the mall, I had to go bathe up to the elbows in the ladies' restroom. If you appreciate a range of roses, you could try this, but if you're a little flaky about roses, don't hurt yourself with this. I've found Stella to be much more approachable.

    29 September, 2005

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    Eau de Russe by Crown Perfumery

    Being given the advice, that I should take every chance to get any remainders of this perfume, I bought a bottle at 'The english scent' in Berlin. Today it arrived and until now I am not too sure about it - do I like it? Does it fit me? Anyway, it is quite off the track from my favourite perfumes like Mazzolari Lui or 88 by Czech & Speake, though Eau de Russe tends to the direction of those heavy and long lasting scents. It reminds me of a certain type of JellyBeans (roasted marshmallow?), but mainly I do smell amber, which is ok. for me, but not an every day scent. Maybe a perfume worn on occasions with a seductive intention, but this could turn into the contrary effect.

    29 September, 2005

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    LP No.9 for Men by Penhaligon's

    One of my favourite fragrances - accidentaly a lot of my favourite scents have a monochrome black bottle, like Czech & Speake's 88, Drakkar and the quite new John Varvatos perfume. What they all have in common, too, is in my opinion a very distinct smell of their own, quite on the other side of the light and often overblended designer scents, but extremely different to the heavy, oriental ones like Amouage Gold or Mazzolari, too, both of which I sometimes could die for, too. But everything in this world has its time...

    29 September, 2005

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    Marquis by Anglia Perfumery

    Being no longer produced by Crown/Clive Christian, this classical scent is nowadays produced by the Anglia-Perfumery. Never having smelled the 'original' one, I dare not saying, whether this version is absolutely similar to the Crown perfume, but anyway, I like it. It has very fresh, Farina cologne water-like notes, ideal for refreshment in the warmer season but after a while it turns into a quite diffuse, but very pleasant heavier direction, which are quite more unique than the citrus notes in the beginning.

    29 September, 2005

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    Citrus Paradisi by Czech & Speake

    I totally agree to Thomas and just want to add that a) one should never use this smell when tasting wine or having an opulent diner and b) thank goodness it lasts not too long, at least not on my skin.

    29 September, 2005

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    Dia Man by Amouage

    I was a little disappointed when I tried Amouage Dia for the first time; compared to the extreme intense smell of the Gold edition it seemed quite, well 'harmless' to me. But first of all it develops in a most exciting way, leaving an even more detectable compositions of fragrances after a long while, and compared to Amouage Gold, that for a men's perfume really shoots a little over the mark it has a really lovable subtility with a tendency to the amber spectre.

    29 September, 2005

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    Rochas Lui by Rochas

    At first I was so disappointed by this scent, that I placed in in the guest's toilet for occasions of room odorizing. But after more than one year I have gut used to it, especially to its resinous aspects and reestablished it to my all-day collection while Gaultier2 has taken its place in the loo.

    29 September, 2005

    The_Dallas_Dean's avatar



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    Muschio Bianco / White Moss by Acca Kappa

    I have grown to love this light, clean fragrance. I found it at the Four Seasons in Newport Beach on the bottom shelf in the gift shop. I didn't expect much but was plesantly surprised! Unique for the guys but totally acceptable IMHO

    29 September, 2005

    wedge's avatar



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    Chic by Carolina Herrera

    A fruity-floral scent with a hint of honey. In my head, it's a Kouros for women, without the incense and smokiness but with a hint of the famous Kouros note... (yes you know...). Very pleasant scent, starts off similarly to L'eau par Kenzo pour homme without the aquatics notes before the honey brings a rich animalic facet to Chic.

    29 September, 2005

    wedge's avatar



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    Coco Mademoiselle by Chanel

    I finf Coco Mademoiselle to be in a similar idea as Angel for women or HM for men. Fresh floral notes mixed with a vanillic sweetness, but the floaty lightness is brought down to earth by the very earthy vetiver. An absolute delight to smell.

    29 September, 2005

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    Black Cashmere by Donna Karan

    A smoky, woody and spicy fragrance that is excellent for colder months. The jasmine note develops during the drydown which may smell like a musty old women's perfume but the amount of dark, smoky elements keep it in check.

    29 September, 2005

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