Fragrance Reviews from September 2005

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    Allison_R.'s avatar



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    Reaction Women by Kenneth Cole

    The fragrance that smells better than it would appear. Smells like an icy mango mixed with peonies. Fresh and piercing, not overly floral. Makes my bathroom smell beautiful!

    06 September, 2005

    gerrygarnto's avatar



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    Monsieur Jovan by Jovan

    I was disappointed with Coty corporation's choice to discontinue the bulk of the Jovan line ( 1990?). I wrote them a letter in 1998 and they answered a standard "not at this time" when asked about production of Monsieur Jovan. They did not allude to any future hope of finding it on store shelves. I started buying it in 1978 just after it was introduced to the public in 1977 and wore it exclusively for 17 years. i found it unavailable once and asked about it. i was told it was being discontinued. i had the store run a search and bought their remaining stock. I have 2 bottles of aftershave left and have just purchased a bottle of cologne off e-Bay. I have sent out feelers for a reproduction of the scent but so far no one has answered. I have not found anything on the market that smells anything like Monsieur Jovan and would welcome any input. Monsieur Jovan is a timeless, classic scent that should have gotten a better review and consideration from the Coty take-over. I know from experience it was in high demand in every store i ever found it. I was on a waiting list at one store for a while in the early 80's and i did not grow up in a small town. If Coty wanted to eliminate their compitition, i guess they did but they also lost potiential customers, like me, who are determined to keep what i like even if it means taking extrordinary measures. Why they kept such loud scents like "Musk" and did away with classic ones is a mystry to me. "Musk" is still available everywhere but i do not know anyone who would wear it. Feels like Coty isn't too bright in their marketing department or maybe they just could not afford the 'rights' to produce the entire line. Who knows. Hopefully, Coty will notice bulletins like this and take these reviews to heart.

    06 September, 2005

    jvnco's avatar



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    Fierce for Men by Abercrombie & Fitch

    Just the faintest hint of this scent causes me to shudder and tingle with an overwhelming sense of ecstatic exitement, and while it may not "evolve" per se, it does become more intoxicating with each encounter. Long story short (too late), this fragrance never fails to turn me on. And since my boyfriend is so bloody stingy, guess I'll have to get my own bottle!

    06 September, 2005

    milamber's avatar



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    Michael for Men by Michael Kors

    To understand this scent, we must understand why it was created. In essence, this is a response to the downward spiral of modern perfumery and its obsession with being clean, fresh, safe, profitable and unobtrusive. For a scent to succeed these days, it seems to require less and less imagination, and a whole lot of money pumped into the marketing machinery of advertising. Not entirely a perfumer's fault, when every brief he receives says "Fresh, cool, clean, understated and emulates the success of Cool Water and Acqua di Gio".

    Fortunately, we have a few couturiers who see the malaise of modernity and tries to be different, creative, bold. In an interview, Mr Kors explains:
    "There is such a sameness in men's fragrances now of everything being citrusy and sort of innocuous. We definitely wanted something that was a statement. I wanted something memorable, special. I like something that causes a reaction, but I'm not looking to clear an elevator here."

    What i like about Michael Kors for Men is its obvious links to the classics, yet attempts to merge tradition with modernity. In his words, "You want the best of the past, but you want to leave what's old-fashioned." His style can be called modern traditionalism. So what can you expect from Michael Kors for Men?

    The topnotes are an attention getter for sure. It is full of the sillage inducing notes of spicy Cardamom and Star Anise. As for the citrus, none other than the deep, breadth-extending bergamot was selected. The heart notes are even more intense. All masculine notes of tobacco, sweet suede and smoky incense rush to the front in a sensual, refined accord designed to overload the senses with a mingling of sweet and bitter notes. The drydown echoes this theme of opulence with patchouli, dark plums and dried fruits.

    Michael Kors for men is without doubt, an intoxicating scent that reflects refinement and sophistication in a bold, confident way. He manages to put a sexy spin on the theme of classic luxury and at the same time, infusing the fragrance industry that seems to be increasingly jaded, with some much needed creative vibrancy.

    06 September, 2005

    milamber's avatar



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    Geir by Geir Ness

    Some fragrances don't need lengthy reviews:
    Tears of an angel.

    06 September, 2005

    R's avatar

    United States United States

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    Anucci Man by Anucci

    Dreamy, exotic, and a pleasant flowery drydown.

    06 September, 2005 (Last Edited: 17 September, 2009)

    R's avatar

    United States United States

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    Déclaration by Cartier

    Two (or 3) thumbs up. DELICIOUS. 10 out of 10.

    06 September, 2005

    R's avatar

    United States United States

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    Paco Rabanne Pour Homme by Paco Rabanne

    Pleasant, ticklish hints of endearing juvenile behavior. Paco rabanne. 7 out of 10.

    06 September, 2005

    R's avatar

    United States United States

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    Quorum by Antonio Puig

    Very strong. Be careful with the application - can be elegant if applied in miniscule quantities.

    06 September, 2005 (Last Edited: 11th September, 2009)

    R's avatar

    United States United States

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    Rocabar by Hermès

    Deep blue skies..golden autumn leaves....crisp, bracing mountain air...

    06 September, 2005 (Last Edited: 11th September, 2009)

    R's avatar

    United States United States

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    Vetiver by Guerlain

    If you get the right "batch" its a great scent. Beautiful green "grass" notes melded with tobacco notes

    06 September, 2005 (Last Edited: 11th September, 2009)

    R's avatar

    United States United States

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    Cuiron by Helmut Lang

    Probably the best smelling-thing (ahem. very technical review , this) I've come across.

    I just bought cuir d'oranger based on some reviews here comparing it to Cuiron. Its a stunningly beautiful scent as well, but Cuiron edges it out by a nanometer. Theres nothing quite like Cuiron.

    06 September, 2005 (Last Edited: 11th September, 2009)

    Trotsky's avatar

    England England

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    Sandringham by Crown Perfumery

    As ever the good Baron has summed it up beautifully. I do wonder what happened to the top notes? To my nose this scent almost immediately becomes 'rich, royal, sensuous and sweet'. I do not detect citrus or lavender notes. It is none the worse for that. It is a fragrance from another era but one which enhances this dull age. How could they discontinue it?

    06 September, 2005

    wicozani's avatar

    United States United States

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    Vétiver by Annick Goutal

    Annick Goutal's [b]Vetiver EDT[/b] is nice enough, though quite simple and fleeting. It opens with a reasonably strong, smoky, salty character with a hint of spices; no citrus is apparent. Unfortunately, it disappears on my skin within 3 hours after a linear, unimpressive drydown. A brief description of the notes per Sephora.com: Java Vetiver, Rare Wood, Burmese Spices, and Sea Salt Aroma. I much prefer my Guerlain Vetiver, which lasts twice as long and presents a beautiful, evolving drydown.

    Wicozani

    06 September, 2005

    wicozani's avatar

    United States United States

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    Vétiver de Puig by Antonio Puig

    That's an old classic, Sir! I'll presume you're still trying your vetiver samples. I've smelled it before but I can't quite place it. Certainly agreeable enough, though. Once again, my valet succinctly sums up my own thoughts on the matter. However, I didn't get to my position without a certain amount of compulsion, so I should say a little more.

    [b]Vétiver de Puig EDT[/b] is a very interesting vetiver scent. It opens with a little citrus (less than Guerlain, for instance) tinged with a slightly sour green note that I perceive as celery. Indeed, this scent is reminiscent of Nina Ricci’s Phileas. I happen to have a vintage mini of Vétiver de Puig and this celery note is very magnified, set in a somewhat sweet base, like an overoxidized wine. The liquid of this vintage mini is also considerably darker than that in my recent decant. In all, there is a quiet authority in this old scent, which is long-lasting, and certainly should be tried by all lovers of vetiver.

    Wicozani

    06 September, 2005

    xnu's avatar



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    Baldessarini Del Mar by Baldessarini

    I just bought this new EDT. on last Sunday in Bangkok because its extraordinary scent make me feel so good. For the first time DEL MAR make me think about dunhill x-centric but its scent is stronger and mossy than x-centric. The bottle is quite heavy and created with good design.
    I will recommend this EDT. if you are looking for somethings that difference from other unisex
    fragrance in the market because DEL MAR has its own signature scent.

    Anuthep.

    06 September, 2005

    benb's avatar



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    Must de Cartier pour Homme by Cartier

    This is a lovely scent if you just could smell it better on yourself. I am seriously thinking of trying the essence version.
    benb

    07 September, 2005

    calchic's avatar



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    1881 pour Femme by Cerruti

    Cerruti 1881 is designed to represent an olfactory rendering of crisp white linen - a bit starchy and sharp at first, easing into something cottony, clean and cooling. I guess I mostly get that from the fragrance, though the inclusions of chamomile, blonde woods and rosewood give it a slightly plushier quality as well, a touch of pure chenille to wear with your linen. (Nothing like mixing seasonal textiles, right?) It's interesting how the geranium, which truly is a sharp note, pops up in the middle; compositionally, that comes through in the wearing and gives the fragrance a more tenacious staying power than it would ordinarily seem to possess. (If you've ever crushed geranium petals in your fingers, then you know the tenaciousness of that flower in its natural form.) The drydown is indeed clean and nearly comforting; no sweetness here, but there's a soothing second-skin quality that flows very easily and with a sophisticated subtlety.

    07 September, 2005

    calchic's avatar



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    Allure Eau de Toilette by Chanel

    Something about the particular Chanel fragrance alchemy sometimes makes things seem what they aren't, and this very much applies to Allure in my experience. As with Cristalle, the first thing that springs to mind when I consider Allure is leather - in this case, a lightweight glove leather as opposed to Cristalle's tangy, just-taken-off-a-horse saddle leather. (Where it comes from, I know not; I'd say vetiver, which gives Allure its warm depth and velvetiness, but Cristalle doesn't have any.) I find Allure - in any strength, from eau fraiche to EDP, though it's the EDT I've worn the most consistently - to be a very rich fragrance, one that can easily overpower. A touch is fine, but more than that can be overkill. And I don't at all find it to be sweet or oriental in nature; I think rather that Chanel came up with it as a really quite brilliant transitional fragrance to span the gap between the very Eighties-ish Coco and the newer generation "21st century" scents like Coco Mademoiselle (which has a lineup of notes strikingly similar to Allure, with the patchouli in the Coco Mad mix being the dealbreaker) and Chance. Allure's a great fragrance in its own right, I feel, and one I really enjoy wearing, yet not quite distinctive enough to join the pantheon of GCCs (Great Chanel classics) like Cristalle, Number 5 or Number 19.

    07 September, 2005

    calchic's avatar



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    Coco Mademoiselle by Chanel

    Soory to be a Debbie Downer, but my version of what a Chanel fragrance should radiate does NOT include patchouli! I have nothing against the note in and of itself, but I do think Coco herself would have been none too pleased about this. It's just so not Chanel. And it really overpowers this fragrance so aggressively, I think, that it comes off as just another sweet-and-fruity-patchouli-patooty composition to me. Note that I do not wear Angel well, either, though I do think Angel transcends its patchouliness better and displays its facets more intriguingly than the Coco Mad does. That being said, the look and juice color of the Coco Mad are magnetic and often pull me in on their own, though the spell only lasts temporarily and I ultimately find myself vigorously cleansing my Coco Mad-sprayed wrists! Kudos to all those who can wear this fragrance with elan.

    07 September, 2005

    calchic's avatar



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    By Woman by Dolce & Gabbana

    This is an interesting fragrance, really quite unusual with its cross-pairings of greenish notes and coffee, double vanillas (orchid and Bourbon) and subtle, markedly unsweet florals. Fans of Alexander McQueen might like D&G By as well; it's got a hint of masculine, not one that makes the wearer herself smell like a man but rather suggests that a man has just passed by, if that makes sense at all. It's also, particularly on initial application, a stronger and more severe fragrance than the other D&Gs; even with the big dose of vanilla, I don't find it sweet so much as licorice-y and a bit edgy. The staying power is remarkable and the composition one that truly evolves on the skin; the ultimate drydown is clean and nearly bamboo like, rather Zen-ish and approximating the drydown of another fairly unique fragrance in my book, Cerutti 1881. Fans of that one may like the By as well. Oh, and the By bottle - the ultimate in animal print fabulousness!

    07 September, 2005

    calchic's avatar



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    Hanae Mori (new / Butterfly) by Hanae Mori

    I love this fragrance with all my heart ONCE I get past its very aggressive and sharp opening, which never fails to remind me of Windex. (Is that the fault of the topnote of bilberry? I'm going to go ahead and say yes, since it's the one note in the mix that I don't "know" as an individual. Bad bilberry!) I've worn HM through the years in both EDT and EDP combos, and it's an exquisitely adult confection, couture candy with a very real and sensual underlying warmth. Sidenote: to be applied and enjoyed in small doses - do not overspray this one. I've experienced it on others when overapplied and it's not pretty, trust me. Kills the whole effect. Like all great fragrances, a few touches of this, applied in the proper places, takes you through the day in the manner of an exquisitely rendered designer ensemble.

    07 September, 2005

    calchic's avatar



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    Sugar Cookie by Demeter Fragrance Library

    One of the better old school Demeters out there, this one has a warm quality that smells more authentic than artifical and manages to convey the quality of being "baked" rather than "burnt" (burnt being the fatal flaw of the otherwise quite nice Aquolina Pink Sugar, which I wouldn't be totally shocked to discover was inspired by the Demeter Sugar Cookie.) Yes, like Demeter scents as a whole, this one has little tenacity - a result, I'd imagine, of being built around pure syntehtic essences as opposed to old-fashioned notes and fixatives. But that's okay, because the genius of this is in getting that quick blast of sugar fix anyway; I don't necessarily want to walk around smelling like a cookie ALL day. In that sense, this and all the Demeters are more about very cutting-edge aromatherapy, setting a "scent mood" for yourself and taking it from there. Apply Sugar Cookie - feel comforted and nurtured and a little bit pretty. Apply Funeral Home - get dark and murky and explore your inner goth. And so on.

    07 September, 2005

    dallasconundrum's avatar



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    Jaïpur Homme by Boucheron

    I just can't seem to garner as much praise for this scent as some others. And I typically like this type of scent. It isn't bad. And I am basically glad that I got it...but it just wasn't what I expected. I was expecting something akin to Pi by Givenchy. This is VERY powdery on me. It smells sort of like a roll on deoderant. A NICE roll on deoderant mind you...but still. The lasting quality of it seems to be pretty good, however, as I put it on about 6 1/2 hours ago and it hasn't seemed to have worn off any.

    07 September, 2005

    dynamicddanny's avatar



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    Millésime Impérial by Creed

    I was not really expecting to like this one, but turns out Millesime Imperial is quite great. I don't know if it is super original, but it is the best example of a particular genre of scents out there right now. Imperial is that fresh, clean, manly scent that all the other colognes try to be. It all these things, but never too much so. It is balanced. I get some citrus, definitely some ocean (but more salty than watery), some melon (I think this gives the aquatic feel), and a bit of green. The dry down is like most Creeds, subtle with a sweet, blended woody-ambergris feel. So skip the Eternity, Cool Water, Polo Blue, Hugo, et cetera-- and class it up (nasty, noveau-riche bottle, though) with Creed Millesime Imperial.

    07 September, 2005

    dynamicddanny's avatar



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    Musc Ravageur by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    Musc Ravaguer is a staple in my collection-- I must admit it took some time to grow on me, though. At first spray, the smell is strange and very pungent to me-- a funny metallic, medicinal, synthetic, bleach note permeates the scent. I do not get the citrus, lavender, or spices others do. Wow, it hurts my nose-- but within 30 minutes Musc totally changes. It becomes so rich and dark, a bit sweet-- like A*MEN smells on the skin the NEXT day but not so gourmand, more sexy. The initial pungent note lay in the background hinting at perhaps sweaty skin, dirty sheets, and hmmmm? I wear Musc Ravageur out for evenings when boyfriend and I need to re-ignite.

    07 September, 2005

    dynamicddanny's avatar



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    Cologne Bigarade by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    I am reviewing the Concentre and prefer it slightly to the oringinal. Cologne Bigarade was the last of the Malle's that I purchased, and it did take me awhile to like it. Now I adore it. It was not as fresh and bracing as I had expected-- this I liked. The top notes remind me of the pith of an orange, like eating just the rind. I have never had a true bitter orange so that is the closest comparison I can make. I was also surprised by the spicey aspect to the scent. I smelled mainly cumin (caution: test this scent out-- cumin can be a bit,uh, off smelling to many people) and corriander seed-- two of my favorites for cooking. This is what gave Cologne its "skin" scent to me. The rose added a rounding and powdery quality to the overall smell. I would say Cologne Bigarade is a close relative of Acqua di Parma Assoluta. AdPA is more tart, powdery, and musky while FMCB is more bitter, close, warm, and spicey.

    07 September, 2005

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    L'Eau d'Hiver by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    L'Eau d'Hiver is my favorite Frederic Malle, and maybe favorite fragrance ever! I was SO shocked that the first Malle scent the sales girl suggested after hearing my poetic waxing, whining, and demanding was L'Eau d'Hiver. It did not seem to fit what I told her I wanted or liked-- nor was it the one I had planned to purchase. Well, I was wrong. D'Hiver is like no other fragrance I have ever smelled. It is a flawless blending of opposites: cool and fresh but warm and comforting, soft and subtle but green and long-lasting, natural and classic but slightly modern and scientific, elegant but non-chalant. I especially catch and love the iris, and I am very happy the jasmine is not overbearing, and the heliotrope is not like amaretto. D'Hiver may be a touch feminine for some men, as there is little in the way of woods-- but I bet a few wears would change any lumberjack's mind. Wear L'Eau D'Hiver with a sweater in fall to pick up the kids and meet the SO for lunch.

    07 September, 2005

    gerrygarnto's avatar



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    Tabu by Dana

    Tabu is indeed a timeless fragrance. It is not over-powering yet sends definite signals to the brain. Glad it is still produced and is still available at a reasonable price. It is a versitale fragrance for personal wear and use around the home.

    07 September, 2005

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    Corduroy by Zirh

    This is a very good woody scent. It's not too heavy yet it's not light either. And it has very good staying power. It's a very warm scent but it's in no way overpowering. This should be a very popular scent. Josh Augustt

    07 September, 2005

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