Fragrance Reviews from September 2005

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    Purple Label by Ralph Lauren

    A terrific, spicy yet smooth casual fragrance. I have a couple hundred scents in my arsenal, and I consider this one to be quite fresh and unique. It tends to last ok on me; a refresher spritz may be needed for some. Highly recommended! :-)

    12 September, 2005

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    Calypso Violette by Calypso Christiane Celle

    A very heavy version of violet, this one; I think the honey in it just basically overpowers the violet note (and even mostly smothers the rose, if that's possible) and makes the whole thing too overly sweet and totally lacking in the qualities that I normally associate with violets. The violets I do enjoy are either shyly subtle or mysteriously verging on unsweet, and this is neither. It's just dripping with cloying sweetness and a fake quality I can't quite identify. Additionally, it's a dead ringer for a scent MAC used to make, one called "Asphalt Flower" that was supposed to smell like synthetic florals. I could nevr pull off the MAC and can't do this one either; both punish me with severe headaches.

    12 September, 2005

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    Epicéa by Creed

    Not knowing that this was a men's fragrance (I - and I'm not a man, BTW! - didn't bother to ask when I purchased it; I was lured in by the name alone), I actually wore it on and off for quite a while before somehow it came to my attention that it was for men. And even though it now "officially" belongs to my husband, I still wear it once in a great while because I adore the smell of pine and find this to be the truest, most accurately rendered pine I've ever come across. No Pine-Sol, this; it's sparkling and clean, free of any oiliness or even resin-y tones. It's a waft of pine bough, not tar. This scent also has a certain heat to it, one that comes from the spices; it's intense enough that I'd venture to guess cinnamon and/or clove are included in the spice notes. In general, an elegantly clean and natural scent, uncluttered and crisp.

    12 September, 2005

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    Calypso Homme by Calypso Christiane Celle

    This fragrance can easily go unisex - I am among several women I know who enjoy sharing it with the husband! It's quite distinctive and has much more of a tropical feel than the description of notes would lead one to believe; though mango and papaya are not technically included, they seem to be present in at least minor doses. The description of notes I have also includes tarragon, which is definitely in the mix and, in my opinion, gives the scent its distinctiveness. Tarragon's not a shy note and not easily covered up; it's warm and somewhat like anise, and it tends to pervade the blend of notes in which it's included in a subtle but persistent way. You know it when you smell it, and it's definitely here. Its warmth melds well with that of the grapefruit and black currant and also with the light musk base, which holds the whole blend together. A warm and sunny scent that smells delicious for every summer occasion!

    12 September, 2005

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    Calypso Vanilla by Calypso Christiane Celle

    A very unusual vanilla that gets points for uniqueness - for those seeking a cooler, less sweet vanilla, this could be of interest. The notes consist of bergamot, orange blossom, vanilla and white musk. The bergamot aspect with its citrusy sparkle completely escapes me, but the orange blossom's clean essence is definitely noticeable and is, I think, what ultimately takes the sweet edge off of the vanilla. That and the white musk give the whole fragrance a tropically breezy, slightly coconutty feel. It's very clever in its own way and really rather lovely once you get used to it; this is definitely the answer to which vanilla works best for warm weather, when other warmer vanillas can be simply too, too much.

    12 September, 2005

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    Cedro / Cedar by Acca Kappa

    This fragrance has very high quality cedar woood essential oil as its base.
    It is a cologne but it has a very goog persistance without being overwhelming.
    It is simple and subtle. Don't be afraid of it being too strong or old-fashioned smelling like "Pino Silvestre" or the like. I definitely recomend it.

    12 September, 2005

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    laurent
    Abu Dhabi Abu Dhabi

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    Jules by Christian Dior

    I do forget sometimes how it smell like but I do know that it is unique and timeless.
    A true 80s style without the in your face style !!
    It is just like a romatic caress.
    It is not a 2005 style at all and that is a plus I mean who wants to smell like YOO LOL.
    To enjoy in the golden leaves of Autumn it is just adorable.
    Laurent

    12 September, 2005

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    loungeboy
    United States United States

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    Eau Sauvage Extrême by Christian Dior

    I really love this. This is the original's more assertive brother. And that's a good thing. I use and enjoy both. The citrus here is toned down and the basenotes are amplified.

    12 September, 2005

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    loungeboy
    United States United States

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    Patou pour Homme (original) by Jean Patou

    Hands down one of the best male fragrances ever created. Right up there with Antaeus and Eau Sauvage. Patou is heady, rich and very french. I still remember picking the bottle out at random from the Bloomingdale's counter and spraying my arm with it for the first time. It stopped me in my tracks. Not many scents can cause a lifelong memory with their first impression but this did. I still have about an ounce left that I use sparingly since I never know if I will ever see it again.

    12 September, 2005

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    loungeboy
    United States United States

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    Voyageur by Jean Patou

    A very run of the mill marine scent. A great pedigree doesn't always produce a great scent.

    12 September, 2005

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    MisterK
    United States United States

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    Jicky by Guerlain

    After hearing about the dangers of wearing Jicky, I recently had an opportunity to get this in a trade.

    I got the EDT and was shocked when I was [b]not[/b] appalled when I tried it. In fact, this could be my signature scent. My expectations were that to run to the sink and scrub away, or prepare myself for self-flaying. ;)

    It is a clean lavender scent, with vanilla undertones very reminiscent of Shalimar. [b]Lots[/b] of lavender. You can tell Guerlain cannibalized Jicky to make the prominent lavender notes in Heritage. Nevertheless, the family tree is clear to me in this regard. Still, the lavender in Heritage seems to be a touch sharper. The lavender is not the sharp, piercing lavender you might find in, say, Agua Lavanda; nor is it a calmer English Lavender. I can't quite pin it down. It is a relaxing lavender but at the same time not a bumbling aromatheraputic lavender content to make you rest.

    I know it allegedly has civet in it, however, my nose is either ignorant or inured to civet as a base. Duration of the EDT is not that great but the Shalimar-like base lasts for a few more hours once the clean top notes disappear.

    I think when a lot of people bemoan the "fecal" smell, they are really associating the clean lavender notes with baby powder and other smells from baby products. I think it is a mental association game going on in peoples heads rather than "oh my god that smells like shit!" That is just my feeling from wearing it. On me, it is very nice scent, and I wouldn't shirk from getting into an elevator when wearing it.

    However, more than other scents it may punish you for wearing too much. The lavender notes (perhaps the "guerlinade") are potent at first and slowly die down. Eventually the scent dies to the Shalimar-skin scent, but it takes a while.

    Fiancee really liked it on me. I am not sure whether this is due to her loving Shalimar (which I dislike) and also liking lavender.

    I would feel comfortable wearing it to work, and plan on getting the EDP. It is a timeless, excellent, comfortable scent for me.

    12 September, 2005

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    MonkeyManMatt
    Sweden Sweden

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    Very Valentino pour Homme by Valentino

    Reading the awesome list of notes, anyone who has sampled Very Valentino would surely become VERY Confused. The pyramid shows a spicy tobacco fragrance with woods and musk, but in reality this is just a medium musky, semi-sweet plain scent. Very pleasant no doubt, but not half as original or masculine like it's predecessor, Vendetta - the leather king. I would say that Very Valentino is extremely suited for office wear though. Just the right strength and output for that enviroment.

    12 September, 2005

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    MonkeyManMatt
    Sweden Sweden

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    Xeryus Rouge by Givenchy

    Nothing to do with it's big brother, the black bottle. Rouge is like the name implies very red, smells ike red fruit punch with a distinct cactus note. Extremely sweet and with significant power, extremely strong actually, at Joop!ish levels. The drydown is a conventional woody one, but doesn't appear until many hours after application as the fruity sweetness lingers forever. All in all a pretty cool and original release but to cloying at times.

    12 September, 2005

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    MonkeyManMatt
    Sweden Sweden

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    Geir by Geir Ness

    Highly original floral composition that really doesn't remind of anything else. Picture a snowcovered mountainside with crisp air, the breeze sweeping through the surrounding woods and the most delicate white flowers growing in the white landscape, this is the image Geir creates. I'm really not exagerating this is how powerful of a scent Geir really is. And the fact that an ordinary norwegian guy like Geir Ness has achieved worldwide success with this and Laila, the womens fragrance, says everything about the quality and work contained in the simple, stylish bottle. The fact that this is one of very few masculine florals that work + superb longevity doesn't exactly weaken it's glory!

    12 September, 2005

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    MonkeyManMatt
    Sweden Sweden

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    Musk by Lorenzo Villoresi

    Completely different take on this perhaps the most classic note of them all. In Lorenzo's rendition we get a sweet, slightly powdery musk with a lovely, mellow rose heart. Like many Villoresis it is quite creamy and the woody base makes it very safe for masculine wear, although there is nothing overtly feminine about the fragrance at all. Musk is in my honest opinion one of LV`s finest and a great example (just like his colonia) of the way he flawlessly has updated many of the darlings of the perfumery-world.

    12 September, 2005

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    MonkeyManMatt
    Sweden Sweden

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    Incensi by Lorenzo Villoresi

    This is the cinnamon I've been searching for all my life (well at least a few years ;) ). A search that has taken me from Obsession through to Cartier's Must via Baie de Genièvre, CdG White and so forth.
    Of all these lovely cinnamon interpretations, Incensi has appealed the most to me. It is brutally manly and extremely spicy like the majority of LV`s. But do not let the name fool you, although there is sinificant incense to be found here, this Villoresi is first and foremost a hommage to cinnamon - the note of kings!

    12 September, 2005

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    Mr_T
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Black XS by Paco Rabanne

    This is a very pleasant fragrance that strongly reminds me of strawberries. Quite unusual as such in the realm of male fragrances, but certainly worth some attention. It's quite long-lasting and is rather subtle. I would recommend for everyday wear, all year round. The interesting aspect of this scent is that it doesn't seem to change much after application to the skin. The strawberries can always be perceived, even when it's been worn for hours.

    12 September, 2005

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    Original Vetiver by Creed

    So i purchased a bottle of OV off of a fellow basenoter and my impressions are as follows: 1) This scent does have a nice package of classic "vetiver" in it. I saw a few reviews explaining that it does not have the smack that Guerlain Vetiver has, which is true.. but you can definitely pick up the vetiver in this. 2) EXTREMELY LONG LASTING, must be my body chemistry but i put this stuff on (1 spritz on each wrist) when leaving to work at around 8:30am one morning and before i showered at 10:30pm i could still pick it up.. and pretty strongly i might add. Amazing longevity on me. All around (even the bottle is very cool looking) this beats out my GIT, and that is extremely hard to do imo... darn near perfect... if any creed is worth the retail price, this one would be the closest.

    Creeds tried prior:
    GIT
    Imperial
    Himalaya
    SM


    Regards

    12 September, 2005

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    Quarry
    United States United States

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    Jean Paul Gaultier Classique by Jean Paul Gaultier

    Sweet and pleasant, except a tobacco quality dominates on my skin. Even my SO asked, "Are you wearing that tobacco one?"

    12 September, 2005

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    Quarry
    United States United States

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    Wet Garden by Demeter Fragrance Library

    I sense carnations in this cold, wet garden, and maybe roses in the distance. I appreciate how this addition to my fragrance wardrobe has added new life to Jo Malone's Orange Blossom, which is lovely, but oh, so plain and sweet. Will seek to find other complementary combinations from this starting point.

    12 September, 2005

    Ric's avatar
    Ric
    Canada Canada

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    Caron Eau de Cologne by Caron

    Awesome fresh fragrance - almost like Hermes Eau d'Orange Verte, but better

    12 September, 2005

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    Polo Black by Ralph Lauren

    This is absolutely the best smelling fragrance for men available today. This is a must have!

    12 September, 2005

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    Francois Blais
    Canada Canada

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    Eau de Guerlain by Guerlain

    My favorite citrus herbal summer scent!
    When I discovered it, I got rid of every other scent of the same category I had. (I'm thinking mostly of Eau sauvage here)
    Well, except Loewe pour homme, which I got later, and which is dryer, more chypre.
    This scent is a masterpiece!

    12 September, 2005

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    Mario Justiniani
    Cuba Cuba

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    Baldessarini Del Mar by Baldessarini

    A pleasant surprise; especially for those of us who are not Boss fans. This one is placid like S. Dali's Laguna and also has the attractive power of Acqua di Gio yet without any sour notes.
    Better than the original Baldessarini formula. Good staying power, too.
    Nothing to go crazy about, though. Hard to justify rebuying it with so many " 5 star frags " out there . . .

    13 September, 2005 (Last Edited: 29 April, 2008)

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    Calypso Marine by Calypso Christiane Celle

    If you're really craving the smell of the ocean and all that goes with it - right down to the sea grass and salt marshes - you must try this fragrance. It's not the usual light, aquatic/ozonic marine scent graced with a dab of suntan lotion. No, Calypso Marine has a true organic sense to it, something that smells like all the things that happen at the beach, including salt water evaporating, driftwood drying in the sun, hot sand sitting in the dunes and marsh grasses slowly fermenting. (Thankfully, the umistakably stinky smell of brackish water - another feature of many a marsh - has been left out.) If it sounds not terribly appealing, try this one anyway - the actual notes of bergamot, raspberry, nutmeg, bamboo, salty marine accord, patchouli, lotus flower, driftwood, sandalwood, soft musk and white amber form a masterful blend that is so much more interesting than the sum of its parts. Also know that this fragrance applies very powerfully but dries down into something understated but still nicely noticeable. I have received a lot of comliments on this fragrance and have come to automatically associate it with summer's splendor.

    13 September, 2005

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    Ibiza Hippie by Escada

    A lot of the Escada annual limited editions smell markedly similar to me; I don't think, for instance, that I could distinguish between Rockin' Rio and Island Kiss in a blind sniff test. And Tropical Punch and Sexy Graffiti are also very, very close in character, both like highly sweetened berry drinks. For some reason, though, the Ibiza Hippie has always had at least a little something different; the fruit topnotes of Ibiza are more crisp and less sweet than those of the others, and the basenotes are also somewhat more defined and, to my nose, pleasantly powdery and woody. Despite the "raver" sound of the name, I think Ibiza Hippie is relatively sophisticated as fruit scents go. The only knock is a fairly insubstantial staying power. But if you don't mind reapplying often, try to track this one down for a refreshing spring-into-summer scent.

    13 September, 2005

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    Sensations by Jil Sander

    Jil Sander Sensations is deigned a sheer oriental, more transparent and generally more veil-like than a "regular strength" oriental. That can be deceiving, however, as this fragrance is not as light as it seems. It's very sweet, which I'm guessing comes from the nettle flowers (supposedly a fairly sweet-smelling bloom, though all I know about the nettle in nature is its irritating sting) as well as the amber and "milk and cereal accord" (your guess as is good as mine - this smells about as breakfast-y as a dinner at a four-star restaurant! Though in fairness, the softness of the milk does come through in the drydown). But there is also a sharpness to it, particularly on first application; could that also be from the nettle? I'm not sure. Once that has dissipated, the drydown- with aforementioned milk - is gentle and soothing, ambery woods and balmy musk. Again, though, it's gentle but not necessarily light and airy; despite its designation as a sheer scent, this one lingers on quite well through the day. With that in mind, apply with care, as a spray or two seems to be more than adequate. I have several times exuberantly "overapplied" this fragrance, at least according to others who told me they found it too much. How embarassing. No one likes to be told that, right? So consider yourself cautioned!

    13 September, 2005

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    Musc Ravageur by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    A provocative oriental if you can get past the highly aggressive elements of cinnamon and clove and don't mind the also rather pronounced lavendar, which works on some (men and women) but doesn't always agree with my chemistry. The drydown phase is very sweet and not all that intense for a musk; the name implies something far more savage than the relative tameness of the musk here delivers. I like this fragrance fairly well but don't find it spectacular. Some may be offended by the assessment, but Musc Ravageur is not all that far removed from Estee Lauder's Cinnabar or YSL's Opium in spirit. This one is more clear and "clean" than those others but has the same attitude of spicy-sweet sexy oriental.

    13 September, 2005

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    Angéliques Sous La Pluie by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    The topnotes of this, which burn off fairly fast, smell like a good dry gin spiked with pink pepper and then warmed up, saki-style. From there, you get light layers of mostly cedar and angelica, which is green and a bit dusky and warm and also, to me, a little bit powdery around the edges. All of this makes for a truly different fragrance and I give much credit to Jean-Claude Ellena for the concept. It's a bracing, warming and invigorating scent, neither feminine nor masculine but almost completely neutral and also totally non-perfumey/cologne-y. In that sense, it reminds me of some of the scents Comme des Garcon does, of the types that combine notes traditionally used in personal fragrances with some more unorthodox, surprising notes.

    13 September, 2005

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    L'Eau by Diptyque

    My gosh, this is a strong fragrance. For scenting a most likely dank and mildewy 16th century castle-type dwelling, yes, I can imagine this would be tremendously effective. But as a fragrance to wear, it's just too powerful for me. Cinnamon, cloves and geranium are all incredibly deep, pervasive notes, and combined together they account for the high degree of sharpness this scent possesses, particularly upon application. They also tower above anything else in the mix; I've never been able to distinguish the sandalwood or rose, even hours after drydown. On the plus side, this does smell very authentic, as if made by medieval herbalists, and that gives it a certain drama and mystery. If you can tolerate the heavy spiciness, do try it.

    13 September, 2005

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