Fragrance Reviews from January 2006

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    Miss Dior Originale (previously Miss Dior) by Christian Dior

    A surprisingly masculine leather chypre. I can imagine the shock this must have caused when first released. Now however, it makes an excellent men's scent highlighted by galbanum, patchouli, oakmoss, leather, sandalwood, sage and iris to name but a few of the notes. Sexy and mysterious, a classic fragrance.

    15 January, 2006

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    Poison by Christian Dior

    Perhaps one of the most famous perfumes of the late 20th century, and for good reason. A surprisingly dark and brooding blend of prunol, musks, florals and woods. Nothing has come close to the magic evoked by Poison. I will always have at least a small amount in my collection at all times.

    15 January, 2006

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    Dune by Christian Dior

    A glorious scent from the early 90's that vividly recalls ocean surf crashing upon sandy dunes on a warm clear day at sunset. Wonderful on my male skin, one of my all-time favorite comfort scents. Excellent lasting power and sillage, this is a staple in my collection.

    15 January, 2006

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    Dolce Vita by Christian Dior

    A wonderful composition that might have been better geared towards men. Sparkling citrus and topnotes set against a camphorous woodsy base, similar to Feminite du Bois, yet brighter and fresher.

    15 January, 2006

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    Eau de Dolce Vita by Christian Dior

    A beautiful fragrance - feminine, soft, lovely. The pear blossom is reminiscent of the actual fruit and is set against white petals. Vanilla and sandalwood round out the base. Something I would buy for my own daughter.

    15 January, 2006

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    Hypnotic Poison by Christian Dior

    Suntan Lotion in a bottle and it's wonderful. Love the almond, vanilla, jasmine, and musk. It's just a bit heavy going on...Lutens' Datura Noir is preferable, but not nearly as loud.

    15 January, 2006

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    Eau de Dior Coloressence Energisante by Christian Dior

    Similar to Eau de Dolce Vita with a pear blossom note set against soft greens and a light musk in the base. Decent lasting power and sillage, though ultimately, the EdDV is better.

    15 January, 2006

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    Dolce & Gabbana by Dolce & Gabbana

    A stunner that I'd like to wear for myself. I love the spice carnation in the midnotes and the drydown is a wonderful musky oriental. I wish they would have capitalized on the blend of plant and flower when creating the men's scent.

    15 January, 2006

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    By Woman by Dolce & Gabbana

    I actually prefer the women's version of By to the men's due to the creativity with the gourmand basenotes juxtaposed against the living florals. In the same family as Cartier Must, this is the youthful, trendier, more daring cousin out all night partying and then winding down with a hot cup of coffee and cashmere blanket. how could that be bad?

    15 January, 2006

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    Light Blue by Dolce & Gabbana

    Beautiful. I love it every time I smell it and it may become one of my favorite staple comfort scents. Sold here in Japan as a unisex scent, I find the effect on my skin to be quite soothing.

    15 January, 2006

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    Sicily by Dolce & Gabbana

    If this is what Sicily smells like, where's my villa? I'm moving. Just close enough in the aldehyde and base notes to remind me of Femme, yet different enough with the tropical island florals to create something new. Sicilian bergamot, honeysuckle, jasmine, black pearl rose, hibiscus and musk. Yes it leans towards the floral side, but who cares when it smells this good without being too foody!

    15 January, 2006

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    Mania (original) by Giorgio Armani

    A cross between Feminite du Bois and Donna Karan Chaos. Woodsy, earhthy, unusual with a drydown like Japanese incense. Light years better than the reworked version.

    15 January, 2006

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    Emporio Armani White She by Giorgio Armani

    Just as good as the men's version, smooth, clean, and with a wonderful musky drydown. Perfect for summertime.

    15 January, 2006

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    Le De by Givenchy

    Givenchy, bring this one back - my bottle is almost empty. A beautiful, soft scent, wayyyyy ahead of its time, smells a bit like scented Kleenex - rememebr those? I know, I know...bizarre comparison, but Le is clean, fresh and light...perhaps hesperides and white musk?

    15 January, 2006

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    Oblique REW by Givenchy

    Wow! This one was totally a waste of packaging and marketing with that ridiculous Oblique series. The scent is magnificent and aromatic and deserved to stand on its own. Similar to Escada Collection, but a bit woodier, this stuff reminds me of cherry pipe tobacco. I love it!

    15 January, 2006

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    Envy by Gucci

    I love it - a beutiful, fresh, tangy green scent that actually works well on my masculine skin. I'm a hyge fan of green fragrances and find this great during summer. The drydown is wonderful - retaining the leafy green character while adding a touch of powdery iris and light musks.

    15 January, 2006

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    Rush by Gucci

    Works well for me, works well for mom - creepy! I love this scent and I could sware I smell an apple note in there somewhere. The overall effect is a light and tangy oriental that dries to standard vanilla fare while never being cloying or overpowering.

    15 January, 2006

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    Vol de Nuit by Guerlain

    Iris, oakmoss, vanilla, and galbanum seem the highlights of this scent - in the same realm with Must and Safari, but sleeker, more vintage feeling and with the distinct Guerlain drydown of its early 20th century creations.

    15 January, 2006

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    Chamade by Guerlain

    I have the parfum and it is a magnificent ambery chypre. Just enough green to keep it interesting in the opening, with an intoxicating oriental drydown. This was Shalimar for the 60's!

    15 January, 2006

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    Parure by Guerlain

    I can appreciate the beauty, but the aldehydic moss and hesperides were a bit much for me. Opulent and sophisticated, I'd love to see this one re-envisioned for the 21st century.

    15 January, 2006

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    Les Météorites by Guerlain

    Violets don't work for me and this is just too loaded with violet and turns rather, well, musty on me. Takemyhusbandplz said it best. Surprisingly strong and powdery in the drydown.

    15 January, 2006

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    Purple Fantasy by Guerlain

    Very similar to Anna Sui to my nose, and heck, even the bottles seem to follow a similar theme. Not a bad scent, but never really seems to go anywhere, and remains a bit too fruity sweet for my tastes. Notes of Green Tea, Bergamot, Seville orange, Apricot, Jasmine, Cedar and Sandalwood.

    15 January, 2006

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    Terracotta Voile d'Ete by Guerlain

    TO me, this is the scent of Xmas - cinnamon and orange pomanders and warm musk...akin to a suntan lotion (bain de soleil?), so perhaps this is where the summer imagery comes from. It was a bit too much for me for the summer, but I used up my decant in winter. The drydown is the star. Like L'Anarchiste Light...

    15 January, 2006

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    Metalys / Metallica by Guerlain

    Yes! Now this is what I've come to expect from Guerlain. A shame this wasn;t made part of the permanent collection. Warm, powdery skin musk type of scent with excellent longevity and sillage. Powder, powder and more powder highlighted by an aromatic neroli note and slight spice accent from carnation. Just wonderful.

    15 January, 2006

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    Mayotte / Mahora by Guerlain

    A strange scent, with heady tropical blossoms and a wonderful drydown. It's hard to get past the cacophony of the opening, but after an hour or so, the scent relaxes into a beautiful oriental with the vetiver and vanilla really shining through. This one coulda been a Lutens and then it might have had more success.

    15 January, 2006

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    L'Instant de Guerlain by Guerlain

    Honeyed amber seems to be the most fitting description. Cloying and heavy also fit. I would love to see a summer version of this and then maybe i could actually stand wearing it. It;s not a bad scent, but not nearly as sophisticated a sI might have hoped from Guerlain. A little snootiness and avant garde accents would have been appreciated.

    15 January, 2006

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    Mimosa Pour Moi by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Mimosa, violet, and black currant. Sweet, a bit powdery, with an odd almost cucumber like note. It just doesn't work for me. Smells more like tilleuls than mimosa to my nose.

    15 January, 2006

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    Magie by Lancôme

    Recently relaunched as an edp as part of the La Collection series, Magie is a wonder of a scent. Notes of jasmine, violet, musk and amber create a bewitching and heady composition that is surprisingly unisex in effect. Wonderful lasting power and sillage, comforting and rich.

    15 January, 2006

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    Climat by Lancôme

    When I recently tested the relaunched EDP as part of the Lancome La Collection series, I was taken with how much better it had smelled than when I had previously tested the regular edt years ago. The original was bitter, harsh and astringent, the current rich, layered, and wonderful. Yes, a strong aldehyde pervades the composition, but tempered by a rich grassy vetiver.

    15 January, 2006

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    Sikkim by Lancôme

    Thumbs wayyyyy up! Relaunched as an EDP in 2005 as part of the Lancome La Collection series, this is one serious chypre! Oriental in feeling with a melange of musks and spices, leather and greens. Not for the faint of heart. A somewhat animalic edge pervades this 1970's classic.

    15 January, 2006

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