Perfume Reviews

Latest Perfume Reviews

Total Reviews: 128975

Sweet Morphine by Ex Nihilo

Another super chic Ex Nihilo's piece of modern perfume-art, a scent waving throughout in the middle between classic elegance and contemporary glamour, indolic floral brightness and visceral dark-oriental carnality. Actually in my humble experience Ex Nihilo is dancing on the top levels of that contemporary neo-classic synth perfumery with a new modern-chic coeval inclination. Floral freshly radiant brightness and dark/oriental smooth-velvety enigma coexist in this provocative formula. The name itself (Sweet Morphine) clearly embodies and unfolds this inherent ambivalence (the romantic and translucent "rosey-dreamy" on the side of the more obscure "erotic"). Especially in the top you can experience a juxtaposition between floral angularity (typical of such florals like lilac or peony) and superb woody-floral oriental silkiness (kind of porous and spongy due to an addictive melange of musk, smooth iris absolute, a tad of suede, woods and yummy well calibrated vanilla). A destabilizing floral conundrum. On this "mature" stage you can catch vague connections with smooth iris-veined dry downs like the ones we get in scents as Laboratorio Olfattivo Daimiris, Dior Cuir Cannage, Heeley Iris de Nuit or Parfumerie Generale Cuir d'Iris (each of the previous for several of their characteristics). Initial bergamot, musks and woods imprint classic chypre structure rooting down (as usual for Ex Nihilo) an olfactory "basement" for a following modern-chic evolution. Iris, complemented by a mesmerizing smooth vetiver (like in the middle of a Dioresque combo), provides enigma and "pathos" to the whole floral composition, turning finally the floral radiancy out in terms of elusive silky mistiness and warm woody-floral carnality. Finally I catch on skin hints of vetiver's saltiness. Dry down is the top of neo-classic silky sensuality, a dark waving floral-smooth mantle making a special woman to stand out among dozens and dozens. Class, wisdom in perfumery and super glamour modern interpretion.
26th July, 2016

Muscs Koublaï Khän by Serge Lutens

This perfume's hype as a stinker is greatly exagerated.
I don't get the urine/fecal bomb that others speak about. Yes, it is a bit animalistic but, not as bad as most reviews here will have you believe and in fact, it is very nicely and tastefully done.

No overwhelming fecals, or salty sweaty after copulation smell, no camel or unwashed rider, no sweaty female delicates or, any other metaphorical description that has been used to convey how this perfume smells.

Having said all that, my skin has a tendency to tame what others perceive as seriously animalistic perfumes. On my skin this is a nice masculine dark floral, with some mild animalistic and spicy nuances which, gives this perfume a sexy/sensual vibe.

Mine is a new 2016 bell bottle from which I wore two swipes. I will decant 2ml into a spray and see if there are any differences when this perfume is atomised. I shall adjust this review accordingly.

EDIT: I have decanted it and pumped three full blasts, one to my chest and one on each wrist. Sorry but, on my skin, I get none of the fecal, post-coital, camel's butt or, any of the other metaphorical niceties used to describe this perfume... But, I does make me feel very sexy and, that feeling got confirmed.
I am currently out meeting some friends and, I got a comment from a young woman in the bar (we are waiting for our table)... " what are you wearing?... you smell darn sexy!" I am in my 50's and, being complimented like that by a much younger woman has made my day!
My friends want to know what I am wearing too but, my lips are sealed!
Loving this... MKK where have you been all my life?
26th July, 2016
Oviatt Show all reviews
United States

Havana by Aramis

Man meets tobacco, with a brief detour through a citrus grove, a stop by the barber shop for a splash of bay rum, all the while clutching a wooden cigar box. You have smoked the cigars and eaten a spicy meal that comes out slightly in your sweat (beneath an impeccable white linen suit). Given all of this—and a name like Havana--one might expect Conga lines to break out every time you wear it, and Daiquiris to be oozing from your pores but it is surprisingly subtle and wearable. I suspect that my new Gentleman’s Collection bottle is a shadow of its former self, but the result is masculine, sexy and subtly tenacious. Havana works surprisingly well in the heat and while there is nothing fresh and aquatic about it, it does smell like grace under pressure, with a generous heart and a mañana attitude.
26th July, 2016
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Riviera by English Laundry

Boring generic juice that I was really hoping would be a winner. It is a rather weak synthetic scent that doesn't last more than 4 hours on my skin. Starts with a blast of synthetic citrus and gets worse as it drys... it is a "mall scent for sure" and for the price ($60 US plus online) you can do A LOT better... Avoiding the rest from this house as well.
26th July, 2016

Kenneth Cole Signature by Kenneth Cole

A nice ambery fragrance from Kenneth Cole that shows that this designer fragrance house does occasionally produce a solid scent... Even if it is for nothing more than work or casual wear you will fell slightly sophisticated wearing this than say other mainstream generic scents. Decent staying power as well... Great online pricing... Enjoy!
26th July, 2016

Black by Kenneth Cole

This is a rather generic middle of the road scent... but what else would you get from a mass produced mainstream designer fragrance. It does have a solid opening but as you go along for the ride through the mid and base it turns synthetic and boring. Shouldn't offend and the online price is solid.
26th July, 2016

Kenneth Cole New York Men by Kenneth Cole

Nice pleasant office scent that won't offend but is nothing unusual or extraordinary IMO but is nice none the less. It is generic but is well made in the same vein as the mainstream releases... Enjoy!
26th July, 2016

Halston 1-12 by Halston

Stardate 20160726:
All Versions

A great Chypre that should be in everyone's wardrobe.
The vintage has a bit more depth to it but the last formulation is good enough. and at $10/100ml this is a no brainer.
You will notice the similarity with its more popular brother Z-14 but I think 1-12 is a better fragrance. A nice cool soapy freshness in a bottle. Perfect for a summer day.
26th July, 2016

Aramis 900 by Aramis

Stardate 20160726:
Vintage Version.

So I did not like it the first 2 times I tried. But that was in the winter.
Today is a hot and humid day and boy does this shine.
The green and the rose singing in unison. A fresh soapiness that is much desired in this 90+F (30+C) weather.
Like Lauder for Men don't try this during winter.

A masterpiece.
26th July, 2016

Baie de Genièvre by Creed

Baie de Genièvre to me is soapy, spicy, and 100% masculine. I can't help but to compare it to Creed's other 100% masculine offering: Bois du Portugal. They aren't really similar, but they would probably appeal to the same audience. Where Bois du Portugal is for a very important man or for a very important occasion, Baie de Genièvre is a more casual, everyday, everyman fragrance. I can understand why it was discontinued as I doubt that it would at all appeal to a modern audience. But to call it dated is unfair. It still works today, but I guess it takes a special man (like me!) to pull it off. I get excellent performance. It projects all day for me. If you like 1970's style masculines, then this vaulted EDT deserves a place in your wardrobe.
26th July, 2016

Epicéa by Creed

Epicea is such a pleasant, relaxing, and calming pine scent. And that's primarily what it is to me: a pine fragrance. There is a little citrus and it's slightly spicy, but the major star is piney evergreen goodness. I don't pick up lavender, but it does explain the calming effect I get. It could easily be a signature scent for someone who just wants to smell nice, but not necessarily be noticed. Epicea is very different from Creed's modern millesimes, but is still recognizable as a Creed. It gives me light but persistent projection for 6-7 hours, then a bit more sporadic for the next 3-4. Not bad performance for a Creed EDT. Being a pine fragrance suggests it as a cold weather perfume. I can't speak to that, but it works well in a fairly cold air-conditioned office environment. It also works well in the heat, which is when the citrus is more noticeable. I'm very happy to have this now discontinued Creed EDT in my wardrobe.
26th July, 2016

Tilleul / Linden by Provence Santé

If you have ever stood downwind of a linden tree in full bloom, you'll know exactly what this wonderful soliflore smells like. I'm transported. On any day of the year, I can revisit July through Tilleul. Longevity is surprisingly good for an EDT (I can still catch wafts of it after 10 hours). It wears close to the skin, with sillage like a soft breeze playing among blossoms. Tilleul is simply heavenly.
26th July, 2016

Accord Oud by Byredo

ACCORD OUD moves through its phases from burning plastics and tyres to rum-soaked hides to soiled rotting logs without ever truly smelling of any real oud I've come across. It's not a bad scent but that doesn't automatically make it a good one either. There is an overarching chemical vibe and textural monotony about it that I don't really care for.
26th July, 2016
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rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

féminin Pluriel by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

There is a pleasant floral concoction from the beginning, but it not well structured and developers into a bit of a floral blur suffocating a discrete rose that shines through at times. Iris - a bit, jasmine - a bit, but I mainly get lily-of-the-valley combined with a nonspecific white floral mix plus some aldehydes.

Later on a bit of the iris returns and a strangely sweetish-smooth vetiver is added too.

The sillage is soft, the projection adequate, and the longevity an excellent nine hours on my skin.

Pleasant in spring and not bad, but a touch to muted and inadequately structured, especially in the second half of its development. The potential is there though. 2.75/5
26th July, 2016

Flowerhead by Byredo

A shrill bouquet of floral aromachemicals put together without much callibration. If you're familiar with higher quality more accomplished floral arrangements you'll know this Byredo comes across distinctly amateurish and cheap.
26th July, 2016

Sunday Cologne / Fantastic Man by Byredo

An easygoing take on the spicy-fresh aromatic masculine cologne. Lacking the richness and dimensionality of all-natural blends it's well-blended (sparse?) enough for me not to be distracted by any particular note's shortcomings. I find traces of spiced vetiver reminding me somewhat of a milder Terre d'Hermes.

Pleasantly versatile to wear on a regular basis but calling it 'fantastic' is definitely a stretch too far. Right, Mr. Reed Richards?
26th July, 2016

Palermo by Byredo

A mildly fruity-citrusy scent reminiscent of pomelo pulps rather than grapefruit, smelling as though I'd peeled off the fruit, got the juices all over my hands and forgotten to wash them off. I don't know how truly representative it is of Palermo but its discreetly soft tang and clean musk makes it easily wearable as a gender-neutral fragrance. Unfortunately for a Byredo it performs well below my expectations.
26th July, 2016

Cristalle Eau de Parfum by Chanel

I have tried Christalle edp today from a sample. I have not liked it as much as the No. 22 sample I wore the other day, but it has its own merits: it is a strong, fruity perfume. The projection after a couple hours was impressive.
25th July, 2016
Kaern Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Bayolea by Penhaligon's

Very traditional masculine 'mossy'.

Instead of reviving English Fern to it's former status, a new fragrance was born, basically tidying EF up and adding some pepper.

Not for baseball cap wearers.

It's ok, if a little dull.
25th July, 2016
Kaern Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Lothair by Penhaligon's

Odd sort of contradictory fragrance from Penhaligon's, i.e. there seems to be a lot going on, subtle changes, etc but ultimately, not a lot happens.

It's basically a milky spicy fig with fougere pretensions -- I actually find it slightly sweet and feminine in parts.

I do like the smell though and it is a stayer.
25th July, 2016

Inflorescence by Byredo

Luminous, soapy and predominantly green, this floral number triggers off the alarm on my synthetic-o-meter. While I can't fault its on-skin performance, it smells way too much like a dishwashing liquid to warrant a better rating.
25th July, 2016
Kaern Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Nobil Homo : Esperidi Water by The Merchant of Venice

Odd marketing (or stereotypical) for this Italian House -- 5 big blueish bottles for the men and about 20-30 small red bottles for the ladies although I was told they were unisex.

Hmmm -- water in the name? Needn't worry, this is a stonking, piercing, gorgeous citrus that lasts a long while and chooses a nice musk to achieve that.

Very influenced by Hermes' Merveilles and EDVC imo (no bad thing).
25th July, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Amyris Homme by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

The opening is a bright-ish citrus and herbal note that is a tad on the undifferentiated side, and is soon joined by an iris impression that is agreeable not not particularly distinguishing itself.

Later in the drydown the whole combination thins out, and at times it is rather generic and uninspiring. Then, after the first five hours or so, a twist towards the gourmand occurs. It is heralded by a very restrained balsamic note, a darkish-green balsam that is very fine, neither ceremonial nor spicy, and not very medicinal either.

Then a cocoa arrives, later with a light chocolate undertone, and a well-behaved vanilla with a teeny-weeny but of oud - an olfactoric microscope is needed to detect the latter. This is the most convincing part of this product's development, smooth, round, neither cloying nor intrusive - as a matter of fact this always remains a restrained and at times nearly faint fragrance.

I get moderate sillage, a somewhat limited projection and an very impressive eleven hours of
longevity on my skin.

This autumnal scent is a bit of a mixed bag then. At times too generic, and times very well done, especially the second half, which seems to be composed of good-quality ingredients. Overall 2.5/5.
25th July, 2016

Genny (original) by Genny

This is the Feminine that resembles Aromatics Elixir. To my mind easier to wear as a man as it seems to have an absence of Tuberose together with the right Patchouli Oakmoss Sandal combination to fulfill my Masculine taste.
The Rose is well represented with a roundness, plushness and dimension attractive.
Well blended in that it has no sharpness or single note
loudness.
Vintage of course, so none of the wonderful availability of the Clinique.
25th July, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Fico d'India by Ortigia

The fruity core and the cedar - these are the two main components in this creation. In spite of some slight difference there is a good fig note present, and the balance between fruitiness, sweetness and acidity is achieved well. Hints of Cantaloupe and forest berry are also present at times.

The cedarwood is on the darker side, with touches of spiciness. This spiciness is more accompaniment to the wood and never pushes itself into the foreground. Not peppery, not balsamic or ceremonial, more an extension of the spicy aroma that is inherent to some darker cedar notes anyway, and towards the end with a lightly powdery whiff, a modern contemporary powderiness, not a traditional barbershop

The sillage is moderate, the projection good, and the longevity six hours.

A somewhat linear composition for warmer autumn days with few surprises, but made of high-quality natural ingredients and deserving a try if you like this sort of fragrance. 3/5.
25th July, 2016

1 Million Intense by Paco Rabanne

Basically the same synth creamy-earthy-powdery (initially intoxicating) mélange of neroli, cinnamon, patchouli, spicy-amber and rose but in here there is a spicy-leathery darker and vaguely more "assertive" (woody-floral-leathery) side of the moon (jumping finally on the stage in the "long tail dry down"). Probably piquant spices (cardamom in particular), dark woods and a moody leather-iris accord provide this fragrance with a (less "brash" but) probably classier and more mature final vibe (kind of slightly moody, barely fluidy-aromatic and saturnine). The minty-creamy-angular initial "splash" is barely subdued. A quite good fragrance (in the synthetic glamour-chic contemporary range), seriously guys. Lot of pepper and misty spices, hints of earthiness and leather for a more mature "clients' target". Dry down is slightly woodier, more leathery and restrained. A bold and sexy (frankly not intenser on my skin) One Million's "reformulation" from Paco Rabanne. Recommended over the "basic version". Abysmal "boor" bottle.
24th July, 2016 (last edited: 25th July, 2016)

X for Men by Clive Christian

X for Men is my favorite of the Clive Christian perfumes from testing at their fragrance counters. The overall accord strikes me as just ok, a little sour, but up close the individual ingredients smell interesting.
24th July, 2016

La Tulipe by Byredo

I just can't shake off the singular association I've formed with freesia since I was a kid. Whenever I smell this note I'm reminded of bath talc. Well, the same sort of thing happened with TULIPE though the note takes more of a backseat to the central white floral accord.

What a lovely floral! It hums along rather than shrieks, and feels pitch-perfect for a blushing young bride. Outside of weddings, however, I just can't see anyone rocking this unless her name is 'Mary Poppins'.
24th July, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Oud Silk Mood by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Yes - another rose & oud product. After all, no-one ever thought of this before?!..... The age of oud....

Still, the oud here is of a nice quality, and whilst strong, on my skin it is never to intrusive or cloying. Not that this a discrete oud; it is clearly present m and out in the open - this is no Royal Oud. And whilst having the distinct edge and aroma characteristic of oud, is is a comparatively rounded version of this wood impression.

The rose is pleasant and, unlike in many other rose-oud clones, is not overwhelmed by its counterpart and an equal partner most of the time; at times the rose is even a bit up in front. This rose is medium dark, smooth with touches of depth and texture.

Throughout the development I get a herbal undertone at times, with hints of weak tea towards the end.

The sillage is moderate, the projection very good, and the longevity adds up to nine hours.

A pleasantly balanced rouse-oud creation made of high-quality ingredients but limited in its originality. 3/5.

24th July, 2016

Bal d'Afrique by Byredo

A soft almost creamy bergamot and floral musk. A textural hint of vetiver puts it in the same postcode as Original Vetiver. Though not quite as diffusive and distinctive as the Creed its persistence on skin is nevertheless commendable.
23rd July, 2016
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