Perfume Reviews

Latest Perfume Reviews

Total Reviews: 138263

Aspiration by Louis Cardin

Super spicy, I finally pick up powdery saffron in particular. A classic fleeting herbal/aromatic dry opening (vaguely a la Paco Rabanne Xs or D&G Pour Homme) finally reached by soapy/musky/rosey resinous balsams with a powdery/chypre (brightly "laundry-detergent/toilette cleaner" and slightly talky) undertone. Dry down conjures me vaguely scents a la Dueto City Oud (but in a less resinous and synthetic way). In conclusion I detect a sort of harsher "hay/papyrus/pencil shavings-like" final twist. Not properly an olfactory "Aspiration" for me.
21st September, 2017
Oviatt Show all reviews
United States

Heritage Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

As a longtime fan of Heritage EdT (of which I have plenty of vintage), I was worried about trying the latest version of this; everyone raves about the vintage and I did not want to be disappointed about a EdP version of one of may favorite scents. In the end I got a bottle of the newest version (wood cap) and it is wonderful--richer and warmer than the EdT and I detect a slightly gourmand chocolate/tonka note--nothing like as strong as in L'Instant Pour Homme but present in the EdP where I do not get it in the EdT. The citrus and lavender opening is bright and wonderful and slightly toned down from the EdT. I have often thought that Heritage is the real Shalimar Pour Homme, much more so than Habit Rouge, and in the EdP strength I feel this even more strongly. Now I am on the hunt for a bottle of vintage....
20th September, 2017

Si Lolita Eau de Minuit by Lolita Lempicka

Smells like purple or black. Darker than original Si Lolita, for sure. I really enjoy the sweet pea note. The vanilla isn't over-bearing.
20th September, 2017
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Cologne Intense Collection : Dark Amber & Ginger Lily by Jo Malone

Basenotes also lists "Kohdo Wood Collection : Dark Amber & Ginger Lily by Jo Malone", so I'm confused about which one I'm actually sampling here. My small atomizer is simply labeled "Dark Amber & Ginger Lily / Jo Malone".
Whichever one this is, I'm addicted.
On my first sampling, I rated "below average" since the opening was overwhelmingly bitter woods. I just hadn't given it enough time.
As it develops over an hour or so, at least on my skin, it becomes lighter, powdery and intoxicating. A night-time, sensual fragrance for evenings at home. And contrary to many reviews here, this scent lasts and lasts on me, improving with each hour.
It's one of the stars of my small collection.
20th September, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Blanc by The White Company

Light and airy. A fresh orange-citrus opening that is quite restrained and unlined by a fruity impression.

In the drydown geranium and rose a set of floral heart notes, with touches of neroli present at times.

The base adds white musks and a slightly ambery finish.

The sillage is moderate, projection is adequate and the longevity six hours on my skin.

A nice, light and elegant summery vibe, nothing too exciting but crafted well. 3/5.
20th September, 2017

J'Adore by Christian Dior

A Snuggle dryer sheet that's been used to wipe down a potted faux rosebush with an anonymous white musk shampoo.

J'Adios.

20th September, 2017

Heritage Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

The 90's Vintage EDP. Now you're talking. Think holding closer to the skin, intimate, a halo around the whole of you. Golden oil, slightly darker, vaguely dusty.
Like them all, bigtime, however the 90's Vintage EDP and EDT are so very Full Fat
Scrumptuous.
19th September, 2017

Theorema by Fendi

I swore to myself that I was not gonna get on the Theorema train, damn it--the reviews, the prices, the hype, the discontinued status, and all the wailing and lamentation that comes with discovering a classic that's no longer made--that marvelous but devastating feeling of discovery and loss.

And then, like Pandora with the box, I sometimes poked around online at the minis for resale and wondered. Meh, it's a serious oriental, I figured. It'll be another Shalimar--no doubt something beautiful, but not exactly for me. I decanted my mini into a sprayer, gave it a couple of tries, and figured I was right from the beginning--a big, clanging opening, a tangy and fresh and very novel kind of citrus, caroling huzzahs of spices, and hinting at an even grander second movement with Ozmanthian statues lurching out of the sand, trains of camels and dancing girls, and a last act reclining on a dream of vanilla. If that had happened, I wouldn't be writing about Theorema right now.

Instead, Theorema does something that few perfumes constructed in this (relatively recent era) do: it downshifts into another gear entirely--and then *kicks it*. That richness that could support an upright spoon swirls away, and what's left is a sheer, gauzy, psychedelic golden space fever dream--that lasts and lasts and lasts and lasts and lasts and lasts. And I think that's what everyone moons about. Yes, it's exotic, and it smells like spice, and I vastly prefer it in cooler weather, but it never becomes a costume drama. It's just opaque enough to feel like perfume, while it remains translucent enough that it also somehow melds together with the wearer. This effect holds true in all formulations, and that may be the genie in the bottle--that a mutually transformative power between perfume and self , that I think that all perfume lovers--even the most jaded of us--never stop searching for.

I could try to describe exactly what it smells like, but the truth is that Theorema is constructed of familiar materials and smells--honestly, we all know what amber smells like; and if you're not familiar with osmanthus, you can find any number of people (present scribe likely included) singing its praises online. That part is all there in the pyramid. What's great about Theorema is the construction, the way that bits and pieces of fade and return and recombine into striking new combinations, and the way it does it all in such a lovely mezzo voce, never demanding, just hanging in there with you. Those key changes, those subtle switches of mood, from almost sweet to almost dry, and the way it hangs in there and dances between them tirelessly (and the way that, hours later, it slowly, slowly, spins to a stop and finally comes creeping down beside you on little cat feet)--that's why I think Theorema is great.

Buy the ticket and take the ride: those little minis are a steal, and they will not be there forever. But don't say you weren't warned.

19th September, 2017

Missoni Parfum pour Homme by Missoni

Missoni Parfum Pour Homme starts as a revival (in a contemporary key) of scents a la Byblos Uomo original or Versus Pour Homme by Gianni Versace (glorious modern juices sice the moment of their inception) in order to gradually assume an its own darkly musky sporty evolution based on lemony patchouli, aromatic herbs and synth musk. Ginger, green lemon and lavender provide the sporty/fresh darkly-aromatic twist a la Badedas Noir. Some drier/soapier soothing amberish woodiness a la L'Erbolario Corteccia (probably because of the oak-note) emeges gradually but this scent is all about musky/herbal patchouli and green lime. A pleasant dynamic masculine modern fragrance but nothing more.
P.S: the "deep drydown" is eminently woody (kind of pencil shavings in vibe) and along this stage the scent losts almost entirely the interest on me.
19th September, 2017
Oviatt Show all reviews
United States

Bentley for Men Absolute by Bentley

Bentley for Men Absolute is the closest I have found to my beloved Gucci Pour Homme I--in fact, I like it even better! The woods and pink pepper and papyrus all point to the Gucci, but the addition of oud and ambergris in the Bentley actually improves this. Warm, rich woody incense notes prevail with less sweetness than the Gucci offering. This is very masculine, very sophisticated and very in line with the Bentley brand promise: Luxury and performance are complementary, not irreconcilable opposites. An irresistible combination.

Along with Bentley for Men Intense, this is one of my favorite recent releases, affordable luxury that delivers on all fronts.
19th September, 2017

Ma Bête by Eris Parfums

I love this strange little beauty! There is something about Ma Bete's vintage-y plushness that makes me want to wrap myself in it over and over like a warm and silky fur coat. The indolic jasmine combined with spicy woodiness make this scent deeply seductive and surprisingly chic, while its animalic essence adds a honeyed, slightly 'skanky' attitude that I adore. I swear I smell costus and civet in here--two notes that I love--and these combined create a naughty furriness that gives this fragrance its signature 'beastly' bearing.
19th September, 2017

Musk Rose by The Rising Phoenix Perfumery

At first sniff it is probably easy to write this off as just another oriental built around a typical rose-oud axis. But like any good tale it unfolds itself at its own languid pace with enough twists in the plot to keep even the most jaded of noses enraptured.

The star of the show is without a doubt the rose. It is front and center, an opulent red ruby of a gem with facets that shift from citric tartness to boozy-velvety musk. Teasingly faint nuances covering a range from earthy-woody to buttery-creamy to herbal-spicy suggest a possible inclusion of aged oud, sandalwood, even henna. But having experienced genuine deer musk I don't quite get the sense that there is any in here although it does get musky as the rose retires with the passing hours.

Musk Rose is a remarkable scent, one that seems to unfold in slightly different ways with each wearing. The quality of ingredients is top-notch. Given the limited volume of sample at hand I can't help but feel like King Shahryar at the approach of dawn, held spellbound by Scheherazade's final tale and deeply sorrowful as 1001 nights came to an end.
19th September, 2017

Diaghilev by Roja Dove

I have had a sample of this in a cabinet for years. Just tried it tonight. It is opulent & beautiful.
19th September, 2017
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Polo Red by Ralph Lauren

One venti decaf
Red Berry Cool White Powder
Polo latte please.
19th September, 2017

Essence No. 7 : Neroli by Elie Saab

A FK study of Neroli. If you love Neroli you will love this perfume. Honeyed Orange Blossom with nuances of Cardamon and Ginger and the "Metallic" that comes off more like Chalk Wall to me.
Neroli has a natural counterpoint within it's note.
Used as a counterpoint in complex perfumes I see it as tremendously important.
Singular and as nuanced study falls flat for me.
19th September, 2017

Naja by Vero Profumo

I greatly admire this perfumer/house in the same way that I admire Bogue. Their scents are always vastly original and striking, if not always entirely wearable. I think Onda in its original extrait form was one of the true greats. I wouldn't rank Naja up there with Onda, in terms of unique and vivid oddness, but it is quite a bit more approachable, and for many wearers, this will be a plus. I love its opening: the deep punch of tobacco, but am slightly less enamored of its segue into melon and osmanthus. This is merely personal taste, and if you are a lover of these two notes, you will be a fan. For me, this scent is a bit too powdery-sweet and I miss the strength and depth of the animalics that can usually be found in her fragrances and that keep me sniffing all day in anticipation of yet another layer of the uncommon.

*Okay, that's what I get for writing a review after only sampling for a short bit. After two day's wear, I have done a pretty thorough (and slightly embarrassing) turn-around on Naja, and now genuinely love it from its tobacco-y beginning, straight down to its almost Tabac Blond-like ending. What on first sniff seemed powdery, now smells deeply and unctuously leathery and totally luscious (and surprisingly vintage-like) in its depth. After trying a larger amount and spreading it on more copiously, I am a complete convert. Full bottle, here I come!
18th September, 2017 (last edited: 19th September, 2017)

Kiehl's Original Musk by Kiehl's

Not my favorite musk by an stretch, but an excellent one for those whose ultimate musk scent includes flowers and a only pinch of something animalic in the base. This is a 'dirty' musk at its least offensive and could be worn by anyone, anywhere, and anytime. There is something here that smells a bit synthetic or sharp (that I think others might call 'clean'). This note bothers me no matter how many times I try to wear this, but I'm pretty sure this is a personal problem that won't disturb anyone other than me. I've heard that many famous folks wear this: Julianne Moore, for one, and each of them, in turn, describes this musk as attractive and enticing, and yes, clean.
18th September, 2017

Trussardi Uomo (original) by Trussardi

Stardate 20170918:
Vintage Version.

A leathery incensey floral Chuck Norris.
One of those fragrances that wear you.
Sillage and longevity is great.

It shares its DNA with VCA Pour Homme as well as Leonard PH. Similarities with Smalto, Montana and others noted in other reviews are apt.

One Million of the 80s, though 1000 times better. The development is great. Dries down to spicy powdery tobaccoy sweetness.

Nothing to dislike. Just get it.



18th September, 2017
Oviatt Show all reviews
United States

Mahon Leather by Floris

Mahon Leather is firmly lodged in Floris's masculine camp but the iris and jasmine give this more than a little feeling of leather feminines of the past like Cabochard and Bandit. There is definitely leather here, but it shares the limelight with a beautiful vetiver note, all underscored by a realistic saffron. Like most Floris offerings, this is well-behaved and gentlemanly. The quality of the ingredients is evident from the start and results in solid performance. Mahon Leather is a great scent for men wanting a classic, traditional scent with a slight floral/spicy twist. Women who love traditional leather scents and vetivers like Sycomore and the Guerlain vetivers will find this well worth looking into.
18th September, 2017
Oviatt Show all reviews
United States

Dry Wood by Ramon Monegal

Ramon Monegal's Dry Wood is a dry scent, but the wood it references is in fact quite green, wood not long from feeling the axe and saw. The green wood is accompanied by pepper and a slightly bitter herbal note (Oregano? Marjoram? Marijuana?) that gives it a savory food note not unlike the celery note in Yatagan. Perhaps it is the Bay note that gives it the savory gourmand note. Finally, the green moss note furthers the green feeling to this scent, giving it the slightly retro feel of bracing green herbals from the past like Alliage, Private Collection and Yatagan. The Norlimbanol, however, which is so widely used in modern masculines, keeps this firmly in the present. Like Yatagan, there is a complete lack of floral notes, which makes this masculine-leaning, but in line with the green goddesses of the past.
18th September, 2017

Mulholland by Keiko Mecheri

As I slowly make my way through testing (& happily buying) some of Keiko Mecheri's collection, it has become clear that there is something very special about this house. Aside from the obvious beautiful presentation in crystal-like clear & dark glass bottles, each and every fragrance I have tested has been carefully thought out, constructed, and is a joy to wear and experience. Mulholland is no different and I truly relish the experience when I wear it.

While Mecheri describes Mulholland as an olfactive immersion into the era of psychedelia and the hipness of Hollywood, I really struggle get that association. It's primarily a fresh citrus opening with only the very vaguest hint of patchouli, then a lovely sandalwood/amber style drydown. To me, Mulholland is very much in the same style as Armani Prive's Vetiver Babylone/D'Hiver. That is to say that although they don't smell very similar they do evoke the same sort of feeling. A bright, natural and lovely citrus followed by a slightly spicy, dry and warm base. Mulholland is not as dry as the Armani and has a noticeable sweetness. Truthfully I would have preferred a bit more patchouli to give Mulholland a touch more earthiness, but this is still very nice as it is.

I agree with others that this is truly unisex and probably very nearly appropriate for most occasions. I get good longevity at about 6 - 7 hours maximum, but sillage is quiet. At retail prices, this may be a bit expensive, but if you can get it on sale like I did, it's worth every cent.
18th September, 2017
techt Show all reviews
United States

Horizon Extreme by Davidoff

Horrible scent, an instant scrubber for me.
18th September, 2017

Muscs Koublaï Khän by Serge Lutens

I consider Muscs Koublaï Khan to be a well done basic musk, that is versatile and engaging. It is rather straightforward to me - musk and florals. The musk is fresh but sensuous, with a touch of civet and castoreum that lend an animalic touch - clean but slightly edgy. I perceive a subdued note of rose that effortlessly blends in with the musk, and even complements it. I do not detect any spices or woods or leather - MKK has a solid focus on the musk with minimal distraction. I find sillage to be close but persistent, and duration to be over six hours on skin based on a generous application.

MKK is one of those simple fragrances done right with quality materials, and a few notches above the standard fare in terms of execution. For anyone familiar with Kiehl's Musk, which is fresh and summery, MKK can be imagined to be a slightly heavier autumnal version of Kiehl's. While overpriced for what it is, MKK is a must try for anyone looking for a robust musk fragrance for everyday use that is interesting, and becomes a second skin to the wearer.

3.5/5
17th September, 2017

Dragonfly by Zoologist Perfumes

Outstanding. Minerals and flowers. I think the concept is dead on, it evokes the image of dragonflies landing on a lotus pond. Wish the opening lasted longer. Wow.
17th September, 2017

1697 by Frapin

A somewhat odd scent that takes an inordinate time to get anywhere worthwhile. It seems the point of departure is something along the lines of: put everything we can find that's creamy, sweet, and boozy in one pot and hope for the best. Fleshy flowers sit along side rum, musk, and vanilla, but they are not easy bedfellows for much of the development. My only point of reference is Carner's equally off-beat Palo Santo. As with that, I don't really see what is being done and would welcome a more stripped-down and plainer approach. However, it does eventually dry down in its death throes to a pleasantly spiced vanilla, but it's not worth the wait in my book. Enthusiasts for unconventional grourmands - if that's even a thing - might get their kicks here, so you never know.
17th September, 2017

Eye, Hatshepsut by Charenton Macerations

Genre: Floral Oriental

To describe Eye, Hatshepsut as a floral oriental is accurate, but not adequate. It smells more like a floral and an oriental lain side by side, without necessarily blending into the conventionally seamless whole of an Ysatis or Byzance. To put it another way, Eye, Hatshepsut juxtaposes a buttery, indolic white flower accord and an incense-laden, spicy, woody oriental accord like layers in one of those fancily poured cocktails, without ever stirring the glass. My nose distinguishes indolic white flowers - particularly jasmine, animalic musk, cypriol, cinnamon, iris, frankincense, labdanum, and something oddly fatty or waxy smelling – perhaps the listed “tallow” note.

The construct sounds like something that could be obnoxiously loud, but in this case it isn’t. Eye, Hatshepsut’s olfactory volume is very carefully modulated. It projects well off the skin and leaves distinct sillage, but it’s never blaring in the manner of, say, Fracas, Poison, Giorgio, or Boucheron. More “come hither” than “get out of the way”, if you will. Eye, Hatshepsut is intended to evoke the ancient Egyptian khyphi incense, but as I have no idea what khyphi is supposed to smell like, I can’t say how well it succeeds. It does manage to smell exotic and rather compelling by turns, with smoky and animalic undertones that distinguish it from more traditional floral oriental offerings. While offered as a unisex fragrance, the conspicuous white flower accord at Eye, Hatshepsut’s heart may put some men off – and that’s coming from a guy who wears Carnal Flower and Tubéreuse Criminelle in public. An appealing oddball scent, but sample first.
17th September, 2017

Elite by Floris

Genre: Fougère

Floris Elite seems to me a rather staid, conventional aromatic fougère composition. All of the pieces are duly assembled and in the right place. Lavender? Check. Coumarin? Check. Bergamot? Check. Geranium? Check. Dash of spice? Check. Maybe even a touch of oakmoss. The result? A very traditional “barbershop” style masculine that, while perfectly serviceable, competes in very crowded territory.

Bigger, more ambitious alternatives like Jules, Equipage, Lauder for Men, or Arquiste’s new Él offer greater complexity and character. Brighter, sprightlier competitors like Aramis Tuscany per Uomo offer more grace and humor. All stand on the broad shoulders of Azzaro pour Homme, granddaddy of the genre, which still smells richer and deeper than the Floris at a fraction of the price.

Nice enough, in the end, but liable to get lost in the shuffle.
17th September, 2017

Nevermore by Frapin

No, no, no. Opens with that sharp chemical opening in Black Aoud but doesn't develop into nearly as good a fragrance, and that synthetic magic marker thing stays throughout. Frankenrose
17th September, 2017

Monsoon by Dame Perfumery

Floral unisex fragrance that is fresh and subtle. The iris and lilly of the valley gives it the feminine side, and the cedarwood balances things out to give it the masculine side. 7/10
17th September, 2017

Jubilation 25 by Amouage

Jubilation 25 is like the mash-up of two of my favorite scents: Mitsouko and Diorella (both in vintage form). But, it contains a rather heft dollop of cumin that makes the whole thing sing in a slightly different, more animalic register than the other two. How this scent's genuine elegance is maintained while also referencing a rather sweaty human is a mystery, perhaps aided by leavening effect of frankincense and tarragon and lemon. This is my favorite Amouage, by far, thanks to its competing, but contrapuntal elements of lightness and dark, sophistication and sweat, chypre-likeness and orientalism. The extrait is my preferred poison. It is slightly deeper and more rich than the EDP, and it lasts a bit longer, too. Gorgeous stuff!
17th September, 2017
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