Perfume Reviews

Latest Perfume Reviews

Missoni (2006 version) by Missoni

If the chocolate-oranges sold around Christmas were issued without sugar you would have a good handle on Missoni. I rarely enjoy gourmand scents to this extent but this is quite nice. If you combined Grand Marnier with a dark chocolate liqueur it would smell surprisingly close.
13th February, 2016

Life's a Bed of Roses by Lulu Guinness

This is very similar to the rosy heart of Tom Ford's Cafe Rose; very suedey-velvety magenta-tinged roses. The top notes barely exist - I think they are genius abstractions used to complement the different facets of the roses used (the cool violet pokes through a bit). The heliotrope adds to the body with a little bit of powder and a fragrance like a sweetless vanilla. The ingredients used remind me a bit of both Halston Couture and l'Arte di Gucci. Lovely stuff.
13th February, 2016

Aperçu (new) by Houbigant

This smells like a lighter-bodied version of Catalyst by Halston, which means I love it. The star players are oakmoss (obviously), sandalwood, jasmine, and tuberose. It's like a chypre originally released in 1940 but re-envisioned in 1990 (the smell and texture of the ingredients). Super enjoyable stuff.
13th February, 2016
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Ligea "La Sirena" by Carthusia

This is an easy scent to grow tired of because it really doesn't change much, but, having said that, I really like this. I had never been wild about the smell of oranges until I developed a hobby in perfumery and found that orange just plain smells great on me. So what we have here is a spiky, semi-resinous orange scent with no tricks up its sleeve. Very fresh but also quite dark. Nothing to sing about but a very solid release if opoponax doesn't bother you. It can be polarizing, but I really enjoy that soft, smoky tinge.
13th February, 2016

Trussardi Inside Woman by Trussardi

In line with scents like Popy Moreni, Belle en Rykiel, and Rochas Man, we see here a powdery-yet-creamy vanillic coffee scent. It smells excellent but lacks some of the nuances of the others. Popy has a terrific geranium note like Yohji Homme, Belle en Rykiel features berries and incense, and really enriches the heart stage, and the Rochas edition has that swell little dash of lavender. Trussardi Inside just smells like the others minus the top notes, meaning here that is very straightforward and I enjoy it immensely. Heliotrope and coffee together? If you can make a fragrance featuring the two which I do not enjoy I would be positively shocked. So, in summary, there are similar scents with more nuance but this juice is excellent.
13th February, 2016

Eau de Patou (original) by Jean Patou

I wrote a concise and pleasant review of Eau de Patou and, as I hit submit and got up to grab a beer, missed the part where the website went offline and my writing was obliterated. Let's hope I can recapture the magic.

THIS is how you do citrus. The opening is a blast of sparkling-fresh citrus balanced out with a crisp, dry bed of oakmoss and initially I am reminded of the lovely Diorella. A hint of pepper balances out the white floral heart in a 50's sort of way and a handsome dose of civet seals the deal. Fans of Eau de Rochas Homme will recognize this body as being entirely similar but with the birch tar substituted for the moss, and with a more lasting base. This is not a particularly feminine fragrance. There is a whiff of something white and clean like jasmine or honeysuckle, but this is mostly just citrus and moss, and it is Good. Obviously, being a citrus-based scent, the first half hour is the most fun, but I can't wait to wear this out this Summer and see how it evolves.
13th February, 2016
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Al Lolo Al Maknoun by Abdul Samad Al Qurashi

The opening is wood-based, a wood that initially reminds me of an unusual wet oak and then takes on a rosewood-like turn; all this is enhanced by a fairly soft and restrained musky undertone.

The drydown brings out a rose note that is not exactly bright, but less deep or dark than the classic Damascene varieties tend to be. There is a subduedly pleasant sweetness to it that remains present until the end, with a gentle spice note added in the base.

I get soft sillage and moderate longevity, and throughout it remains very close to my skin and remains a touch lacking the full exuberance of colours this house is known for. Nonetheless, I get a splendid ten hours of longevity.

A good office-worthy autumnal creation, maybe less restrained on others than on me, made of high quality ingredients. 3/5
13th February, 2016

Bal à Versailles by Jean Desprez

Lovely, sweet rose and civet scent with a superbly done sandal and vanilla finish featuring just a hint of leather. I find it very simple but endlessly enjoyable.
13th February, 2016

Champs-Elysées by Guerlain

Hibiscus, almond powder, and a drop of anise top off a largely rose and not-quite tuberose(?) floral. Kind of prim, and competently made, but I'm not quite sold. The peach is a nice touch, though.
13th February, 2016
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Tawasul Blend by Abdul Samad Al Qurashi

The opening combines a note of wood with moist, soft white pepper, but soon develops a floral drydown, characterised predominantly by jasmine.

Further down the track a lively light amber combines with a sweetish raisinous impression of dried peaches that in the base is paired with a tonka; the latter retains a mild and restrained sweetish undertone without ever being strong or cloying.

I get soft sillage, adequate projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

The quality of the ingredients is very good, and there is a restrained elegance to this composition that is miles away from being a heavy or cloying oriental scent; on me it is quite wearable to the office on a cool spring day. 3/5
13th February, 2016

Magnifico I: Mirto Imperiale by I Profumi di Firenze

I Profumi di Firenze Magnifico 1 Mirto Imperiale is (under my nose) a profoundly citric/spicy fizzy accord of aromatic/oily myrtle, abrasive spices, struggling sandalwood and melancholic lily of the valley. I catch vague/rare ozonic molecules as well. The first approach is kind of minty (mint, myrtle), herbal, sporty/gym-type, freshly soapy, salty/virile, orangy/lemony and dynamic, something not so distant (in this opening phase) from a spicy/sporty/oceanic scent like Heaven Chopard and sharing points of connection with classic aromatic fougere a la Trussardi Action Uomo. I get soon a powerful accord of sweet (intense) spices and neroli, with something vaguely acid, peppery and kind of gummy (or better, dense by a combination of aromatic oils, oakmoss and resins. Hints of galbanum?). Magnifico 1 on the other hand hides (and quickly unveils) a more herbal-hesperidic classically rosey soul with rooty/piquant and sharply floral nuances. Dry down is restrained, less intense (less lemony/spicy/floral), more mossy/ambery, woody, powdery and rooty/peppery (but with hints of soapiness and muskiness). An hyper virile (longly) pungent/obsessive accord vaguely ordinary/bright in its "front side" but secretly warm and sombre in its almost harsh (classically/warmly harsh) woody-aromatic dry down. The final wake is anyway a sort of accomplished mélange, it is smoother, more tamed, civilized, still powerful/aromatic but well "fixed", more harmonious and "neutral". I get anyway something woody-soapy, mossy, sticky/floral and still orangy not entirely catching my taste (and vaguely conjuring me scents like Dior Eau Sauvage Extreme New and Bvlgari Aqua Amara but also Legno Amaro from I Profumi di Firenze). An appreciable juice which is not anyway wholly in my wheelhouse. A quite sensual fragrance for a boisterously masculine personality.
12th February, 2016

Odalisque by Nicolaï

This is grey territory for sure. Odalisque's citrus opening reigns for about a moment and a half until it parts and from the center a leathery musk emerges. There remains a whisper of jasmine and a touch of sea spray over the remaining bed of oakmoss, lily of the valley, and an ocean of grey musk. I feel that this is one of those chemical attraction sort of scents; though I remain unmoved there are many who sing its praises, as there are equally many who lament its existence. One of the more difficult scents to describe with just words. A cliff overlooking the sea just before it rains.
12th February, 2016

Drakkar Noir by Guy Laroche

What makes a "barbershop" scent? Lavender and oakmoss? So this should be the archetypal barbershop fragrance. It's true it does have that old-fashioned, soapy feel, but the complexity of the other ingredients underneath the big 2 make me shy away from that label. And the leather adds a smoothness and richness. It's a green, herby, fresh, soapy experience, but with a sort of spicy, complicated undercurrent that makes it more interesting than you'd think and, well, really sexy.
I've read a number of reviews talking about gay/straight, male/female, particularly with reference to Drakkar Noir. To be honest I don't get that. But then again I'm crossing the "boundaries" of mens /women's scents more and more and I care less and less about what people think about it. Yes of course men would wear this, but I can imagine a cool woman wearing this too.
I was a teenager in the 80s, but weirdly I missed Drakkar Noir then, I really don't know how. So I can't comment on how it's changed or not. I'd describe sillage and longevity now as moderate. It's a great all-rounder: I've been wearing it to the office recently, but I would also wear it on an evening. If it is weaker now, who cares, it's so inexpensive just spray more and more often. I love it.
February 2016
12th February, 2016
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Rykiel Rose by Sonia Rykiel

Should I be getting more peony than rose? The understudy is showing up our main actor. The amber-wood audience watches in silence as stagehands Vague-spice and Something-fruit try to keep the show running.
12th February, 2016

Rêve en Cuir by Indult

Herbal, mossy, spicy, leathery, floral, raunchy, yummy, etc. These were just some of the descriptives that went through my mind as I tracked the scent's development.

That a seemingly weightless composition is able to convey such a multitude of sensory experience over a short span of time is simply remarkable. A less generous critic however might be tempted to call it an incomplete or unresolved fragrance, lacking a clear direction. What a killjoy, huh?

REVE EN CUIR. Honestly I don't find it all that leathery, at least not in relation to the various forms of leather I am accustomed to. But in the absence of a prominent accord, many simply take their cues from a fragrance's name. It says 'cuir' so it must smell like some kind of leather, right? Run it through a blind test and we could very well get a completely different set of reviews.

Leather or no leather, REVE EN CUIR is a wonderfully sensual yet elegant scent to grace one's skin. Projection is tastefully modest while tenacity is more than adequate for most. Price tag is...irrelevant.

Is it that obvious I'm smitten? It's definitely one of Kurkdjian's best work, demonstrating his forte in melding the romanticism of the classical with the clean lines of modern aesthetics. If Derby and Mitsouko were to have a love child, this would be it.

C'est magnifique!
12th February, 2016
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Very Sexy Attraction for Men by Victoria's Secret

The opening is fresh and summery, combining and orange aroma with a vetiver core, fresh but not ultra-bright, yet pleasant.

The drydown brings in mainly cinnamon, and it works quite well, providing the fresher start a richer and more substantial follow-up.

The sillage is moderate, the projection good and the longevity around seven hours.

Pleasant then, only a bit too overtly synthetic to make is truly convincing or special. 2.75/5.
12th February, 2016

Lune de Givre by Cloon Keen Atelier

This isn't all that similar to Heeley's Iris de Nuit but admirers of one will be likely to enjoy the other. There's a similar aloof beauty with a hint of warmth underneath. Lune is less floral, with angelica and galbanum accompanying the iris in place of the violet of the Heeley. It also has one of the best names in perfumery and (shallow of me) a very cool box. Very nicely done.
12th February, 2016

Dunhill Edition by Dunhill

Classy. Big nutmeg and clove, some cinnamon and dry cedar. Good longevity. I keep the bottle next to my Cacharel pH and Halston Catalyst. A keeper, all iterations. 5/5.

11th February, 2016

L'Inspiratrice by Divine

Purchased a sample of this for my Queen.
It invites me to nuzzle up.
She has luxuriated, in a High Quality Bubble bath, sipping Cognac, a Peony flavoured candle flickering. A light brush of Patchouli reminds me that she is a Goddess.
11th February, 2016

Knize Ten by Knize

Quite frankly, when I first tried this, I thought it was a new niche, artisan thing, so unique it was.It had been handed to me in an unlabeled vial,by an acquaintance who asked" What do you think of this?"
Closest description to my reaction was much the same as Montagne.
This stuff develops into "The Bomb"
1924? It is Timeless!
A draw of this sits beside my Cuir de Russie. I use it sparingly as it is Uber M.
Unlike the Chanel, with which I can wear daily, this suits me well when I'm tuxedo-ed.
11th February, 2016

Endymion by Penhaligon's

Endymion. I was hoping for something mythical, something that could take me into the clouds of a dreamy story.
Same dollop of millennium Leather "Boil in a Bag" generic nastiness that Demachy dropped onto the top of Eau Sauvage "Cuir?" Scrubber extraordinaire!!
11th February, 2016
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Beckham Signature for Him by Beckham

A citrus opening with orange, a melon impression, and a slightly ozonic undertone. A juniper drydown with whiffs of a bright but restrained bergamot consolidate the impression of a mix of fresh and summery heart notes, but it lacks some of the refreshing invigoration that citrus-based scent usually provide so well.

in the base a white musky-ambery undertone develops - pleasant and a bit dull.

The perfomance is very good, with moderate sillage, good projection and an impressive ten hours of longevity on my skin - more than what citrus scents and celebrity fragrances usually offer.

In summary a nice summary composition, a bit too synthetic and restrained at timebut well-blended. 2.75/5.
11th February, 2016
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Sirr Al Hobb by Ajmal

The opening is a mix of a medium-rose and and a pleasant ylang-ylang that work together well. In the drydown I get an additional iris impression that gradually grows a bit stronger with time. For the last hours the iris becomes more powdery, but it is not a strong powderiness, and it is never stuffy or old fashioned.

Whilst it is a bit disappointing as far as sillage and projection are concerned - both are poor, in all its skin-close discreetness its longevity is a truly impressive nine hours.

A lovely, albeit exceedingly discreet, slightly sweet flowery scent, whose ingredients are of a very high quality. Weak, but very pleasant and overall - just a positive score on the basis of quality and longevity. 3/5.
11th February, 2016

True Love by Elizabeth Arden

True Love is a misnomer here; it should be called True Like. This is a simple and comfortable woody-floral frag which screams of 90's ingredients. I admit that if this were to be remade with niche-level components it would probably be a real hit. As it stands, True Love is just a pretty good iris-jasmine and I don't fault it for that. It smells cool and relaxed.
11th February, 2016

White Jasmine by Zara

I won't lie, I was expecting some level of banality at work but I am enjoying this fresh little number. 50% clean, semi-sweet jasmine, 30% lily, 10% bamboo wood, and the remaining 10 something sparkling and tangy; not quite aldehyde, but more like green apple or cardamom. I could be wrong. There also seems to be a hint of sea spray, some salty counter to the floral sweetness. This is an enjoyable jasmine, something clean to wear after a shower. Instantly likable.
11th February, 2016

Cuba Jungle Snake by Cuba Paris

This does not smell like a snake! It's actually just a mild, musky tuberose scent. It is not impressive. It does not disappoint. It simply exists.
11th February, 2016

Lady Stetson by Stetson

Out of a batch of many samples I had pushed this one to near last because I'd seen it on the cheap so often that a part of me thought it couldn't be that good. I can't say I was expecting a peachy oakmoss scent with a standard-issue 80's floral heart. This is like a super-light (comparatively) version of Norell - in its vintage version still stronger than many modern florals, and almost oily and leathery enough by today's standards to pass as a masculine. In short, I like Lady Stetson way more than I had expected to.
11th February, 2016

Elixir by Shakira

Why am I, a lover of all things stinky and 'old man,' reviewing a Shakira release? Who knows? Let's go!

Right off we get a clean jasmine and peony duo, so it's going to be a naturally sweet ride. Very little, if any, of the listed pepper to my nose. Perhaps it is toning down the sweetness in a way I simply have yet to notice? The apricot enters the mix, like a peach long since sucked dry. A weighty coterie of almost-vanillas make up the base, which makes the whole smell somewhere between buttercream or marshmallows. This fragrance barely changes at all through its course - some of the florals diminish a bit, and that's it. No showmanship, just a soft cuddle buddy of a scent. This is certainly in the vein of Princess and Fancy but is more pared down and to the point. Very little of interest to me but overall Elixir is a decent option for young gals looking for a vanilla floral which doesn't just make one smell of cake.
11th February, 2016

Number 1 for Men by Clive Christian

Number 1 for Men by Clive Christian is a very floral chypre that could easily be considered on the feminine side of unisex fragrance spectrum. I have not seen the notes list for Number 1, but the opening is lemony bergamot that leads immediately into a jasmine floral blend which smells like: rose, carnation, lilly of the valley, heliotrope, possibly Ylang along with jasmine which has a baroque elegance of florals. Smells quite good, uplifting and slightly sweet. The base is a generic combination sandalwood, patchouli, cedar, tonka, vanilla, possibly some cinnamon although not heavy. There are many notes in here and you sense the dancing around of florals as in a Mozart Sonata. Is it similar to Patou pour Homme or Versailles pour homme by Jean Desperez? Yes, it has a resemblance to these greats but lacks balance within the complexity of floral and wood notes. No. 1 smells great especially at arms length distance where it projects artful elegance that is a rarity in mens fragrance today. This would be a perfect formal or "black tie" event fragrance. It is not my favorite, but I would recommend it with assurance for any fan of floral perfume.
10th February, 2016 (last edited: 11th February, 2016)

Kingdom by Alexander McQueen

As usual I’ve a bit of a hard time with fragrances known for being “skanky”, “dirty”, “animalic” and in broader terms, “challenging”. Because they never really seem so to me. And this is the case of Kingdom, too. It’s a fantastic fragrance, that’s for sure, but I get really nothing dirty or skanky here. Either I’m too used to live in the dirt myself, or have dated particularly clean people, because I get really no smell of sweat or “ladies’ parts” (let alone “man’s crotches”) here, or whatever other kinky stuff. Kingdom seems to me basically a complex, yet actually surprisingly mannered blend revolving around notes of rose, sandalwood, musk and cumin with a dark ambery-mossy base accord, and a silky frame of whiter floral notes. Surely not a light scent, and I see how a hefty dose of rose combined with an equally generous dose of cumin on a thick load of musk and woods can result into something “carnal”, alluring, almost intoxicating, but it doesn’t really seem anything particularly “skanky” or challenging to wear to me. It’s just more very vibrant, warm, refined and sensual, surely much “human” and somehow “carnal”, but not exactly dirty to me. Also as I said, it seems actually quite more mannered and smooth than I thought – not a “bomb”, really. It’s surely rich and deep, but not loud or more powerful than many others. It’s very velvety actually. Most vintage chypres are way more dirty, loud and challenging than this.

Anyway, aside from the fact it smells truly good, absolutely quality and surprisingly versatile (not sure why but in some way, this reminds me of a rose-spicy version of Yohji Homme, with a touch of something androgynous), the reason why I really like Kingdom and consider it a totally worthy gem is because of its charming complexity. That kind of intricated complexity that presents you a very harmonic, balanced, perfectly consistent blend that at first seems almost comprising only a small bunch of notes... until you get captured into it, and thrown among the myriad of nuances it has. And it’s like in a well-written poem – everything is in the perfect place, with a perfect timing. You don’t even have to pay that attention actually; you can wear it and forget about it, it will all come to you. Eventually you’ll get whiffs and echoes of carnation, amber, mossy notes, gentle powdery-floral notes, hard spices, even something resembling to silky orange blossoms (I guess the top citrus-neroli notes combined with the “whiter/softer” side of musk), just as if you’re wearing a half dozen of different scents, with an astounding clarity even in the tiniest, most ephemeral details. And yet, you’re always wearing just this one. It’s a peculiar effect some scents have – to release “minor” notes and nuances erratically during their evolution, and yet to keep their, say, “main structure”. I mean, it’s not that it changes or evolves dramatically – ironically it doesn’t that much. A pretty linear scent, in fact. But it has this cinematic effect of releasing coming-and-going nuances throughout its evolution, behind the main consistent structure of rose-cumin-sandalwood-musk, which makes wearing Kingdom a captivating, vibrant, extremely fulfilling experience. And anyway it smells just great, deep and classy, it lasts long without being obtrusive or challenging. Total quality. Prices today are really crazy for this, but you wouldn’t probably regret the purchase – even just to keep it as a reference collector’s item (or a beautiful piece of design... I mean, look at that bottle!).

10th February, 2016