Fragrance Reviews from September 2006

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    zztopp's avatar
    zztopp
    United States United States

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    Bigarade Concentrée by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    Bigarade Concentree is the more concentrated version of Cologne Bigarade. I guess that "concentree" refers to the increased bitterness of the orange note because interms of longevity, its about as fleeting as the cologne version.

    Compared to my favorite all-citrus fragrance, Creeds Citrus Bigarrade, Concentree opens with a much more bitter orange note. I like Creeds opening better...it smells more natural and well rounded. Soon after this burst of orange, Concentree moves into a woody phase consisting of cedar and hay notes. I would have liked the orange notes to stay around longer - this is an ORANGE/CITRUS fragrance after all. Ellena seems to be in a habit of trying to make every fragrance smell earthy/mineral no matter what the type of fragrance (Terre D'Hermes, Angelique Sous, etc). By comparison, Creeds orange/citrus stay dominant for a longer period of time.

    While Bigarade Concentree is a good fragrance, I prefer Creeds Citrus Bigarrade because of its longer lasting and smoother citrus notes. However both fragrances are expensive, with below average longevity - and I wont be investing in either of them anytime soon.

    20th September, 2006

    acrylic-hunter's avatar
    acrylic-hunter
    Pakistan Pakistan

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    Miracle Homme L'Aquatonic by Lancôme

    A cottage by a river stream, somewhere in the planes of Punjab..the land of five rivers. Late spring/early summer...leave the window open at night and the first smell of the fertile land awakening to the warmth of the sun will give you a smell somewhat similar to this.
    That said, I am not entirely sure a man should smell like this. It does let your imagination run wild though.

    20th September, 2006

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    vadim
    Russian Federation Russian Federation

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    Tubéreuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Knize Ten/Etro Gomma on acid in a wild tango (or pogo if you like) with Commes des Garcons at an underground party in an abandoned garage. If you are an adventurous type, this one's for you. Rubber and rose somehow make a perfect match, with the tuberose note actually cleaner, sharper and truer in my opinion than in most other tuberose scents my GF has worn (Caron, Malle and Piguet) except maybe Creed's Indiana, which is equally impressive in its own right but not as intriguing. The only Lutens I've been tempted to wear.

    20th September, 2006

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    teacuplove
    United States United States

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    Cashmere Mist by Donna Karan

    On me this smells very powdery, sharp and isn’t very sweet. I like the lack of sweetness, it makes this seem like a woman’s perfume and not a girls perfume, but that isn’t enough for me to get over the baby powder and sharpness. This doesn’t invoke the snuggliness I associate with cashmere at all.

    20th September, 2006

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    colormechris
    United States United States

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    Poison by Christian Dior

    When I think of the women that I knew in the 80's, so many of them wore this. It became omnipresent. It's probably a classic but I always thought it was too strong. It had absolutely no subtlety, but that was the point of the 80's, right? To me, the Nagel woman from the cover of Duran Duran's "Rio" is the visual equivalent of Poison. Her name is Rio, she don't need to understand...

    20th September, 2006

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    colormechris
    United States United States

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    Chaps (original) by Ralph Lauren

    Chaps is the only "dime store" fragrance for men that I've found to have any real complexity. It has a bad rap as being cheap, because it is cheaply priced. but the scent is as good as any of the finer colognes (I think). This one was always a Christmas stocking staple, so I always associate it with that time of year. I love the hidden leather quality layered in there with the citrus. It gives chaps an unexpected sensual quality. I wear it to bed every night and it puts me right to sleep, like being wrapped up in an old saddle blanket (all right, an old saddle blanket from a Ralph Lauren ad...). It comforts me for some reason and I'm afraid I'm addicted to it. Weird!

    20th September, 2006

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    colormechris
    United States United States

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    Colors Uomo by Benetton

    Just found this on a scent search at the local discount department store. I was shocked at how much it reminded me of the original Yves Saint Laurent for men, which no one seems to carry anymore. I've been trying to get some YSL but this will make a nice substitute for the time being. Besides, it's a nice, if rather workmanlike fragrance. Has that same wonderful lemony opening as YSL that drys down to something a little melancholy. Never got the whole Benneton phenomenon. I was always confused when I went into the stores. It was like, okay, where's the men's department? At least this fragrance said "for men" right on the box. Hey, some of us need a little guidance.

    20th September, 2006

    colormechris's avatar
    colormechris
    United States United States

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    Perry Ellis for Men (original) by Perry Ellis

    This is an old favorite from the 80's, but it holds up. Remember the controversy from the ad campaign? The copy had the model stating how "f****** great" the scent was. Well, he was onto something. This one smells like what he said. More specifically it has an underlying smell that reminds one of a gentleman's jock strap after he's taken a ten mile jog in it. I suppose, for some, this isn't necessarily a bad thing. The main drawbacks with this one are that it can be overpowering and if too much is applied it can quickly overstay it's welcome. So use sparingly and revisit the dirty, nasty, up all night eighties!

    20th September, 2006

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    elmsyrup
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Voleur de Roses by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    As always with L'Artisan, the fragrance smells very natural, without any chemical notes. The first thing that hits is the patchouli, reminiscent of wet autumn woods. Then sharp, tangy rose and liquorice. It lasts quite well on my skin, but eventually fades into a surprisingly sweet, powdery musk.

    20th September, 2006

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    elmsyrup
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Gucci pour Homme by Gucci

    I absolutely love this. I was given a tester before it launched, and bought a bottle as soon as I could. The impression is of campfires, incense and cannabis- slightly sweet, smoky and outdoorsy. Then you get moss and patchouli. There's a tanginess to lift it, and the suggestion of barbecued lamb. To me it is the essence of a music festival. I've shared this fragrance with my boyfriend and it works equally well on both of us. It lasts on the skin while being not too heavy. The bottle is also beautiful, chunky and statement-making, adding to the sense of luxury.

    20th September, 2006

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    elmsyrup
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Promesse by Cacharel

    The department store were giving away a beautiful handbag with any Cacharel purchase. So, wanting the bag, I chose this as the best of an unremarkable bunch. I've just applied it half an hour ago and already it is fading- but this is no bad thing. The first notes that hit you are very sweet flowers and berries- like a child's fizzy drink. As it dies down there's the cleanness of fresh laundry and a slight powdery musk, but it's not enough. This fragrance is far too sweet, without any robust core. The flowers are indistinct and have a hint of artificiality. Most of Cacharel's fragrances suffer from the same thing.

    20th September, 2006

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    Joe_Frances
    United States United States

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    Nomade by D'Orsay

    Nomade by D'Orsay is a mildly woody, slightly sweet modern fragrance that is perfectly all right. I know that this is not exactly a stunning endorsement, but I realize my nose is "generationally challenged". I am over 50 and happy to be so, but I am just not into the contemporary fragrance scene. I think Nomade has more than a touch of personality in a world full of "me too" washed out aquatics, but it is still a bit too sweet and a little too tame to interest me greatly. It is a D'Orsay fragrance without any pretense of historical antecedents. I works well, I would think, for young guys who can wear tight little suits without socks and not look silly or uncomfortable. For this group it is a very good scent, and better than most. It is right up there with Anvers2, which is also a very good.

    20th September, 2006 (Last Edited: 10th December, 2010)

    colormechris's avatar
    colormechris
    United States United States

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    Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent

    I was just re-reading my original Kouros review and realized I misspelled it! At least I misspelled it consistently. Anyways, KOUROS which I am wearing right now (ah, the embrace of a dear old friend) never fails to maintain interest, which I guess is the mark of a truly great fragrance. Putting it on is always in a way like putting it on for the first time.
    In the summer of 1987 I was wearing this alot. It's not exactly a summer scent, but what did I know? I was a kid. A co-worker of mine at the restaurant I was working at asked me what it was and he went out and bought it the very next day. As the summer went on, I realized he had a crush on me. Was it the Kouros? Maybe. I felt he wanted something more to happen between us but I guess he couldn't make the first move. So Kouros really brings back this bitter-sweet "what if" memory for me. Not just the memories, but the feelings. Really amazing perfumes have a tendency to do that.

    20th September, 2006 (Last Edited: 27 April, 2011)

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    colormechris
    United States United States

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    Oleg Cassini for Men by Oleg Cassini

    Okay, this one is a stretch but I think this was one of the best drug store men's scents of the late 70's. I think at the time this was produced by Jovan. I think it was the first cologne I owned, so I want to remember it as being incredible, but it was probably not. In fact, it was one of those scents you could get in the gigantic bottle, as though it were made by the vat.
    I remember it having a very warm quality after it's initial blast dissipated in the drydown. A spicy, vanilla type oriental, not unlike Cinnabar for women. There was a whole slew of Oriental scents in the late 70's probably brought about by the success of Opium.
    Bath and Body Works has a scent called "Warm Vanilla Sugar" which is the closest thing I've found to Oleg Cassini for men. It is actually better, much more subtle but retains the mysterious quality of the former.
    If you have fond remembrances of the original Oleg, try it.
    I managed to procure a bottle of this precious juice on Ebay for a resonable fee. Revisiting it, it's all I remember and more. My nose is more seasoned now and I can readily experience the major patchouli composition this is. But whoever concocted this had the genius to introduce that "hay" note. I've never seen (or smelled) hay anywhere else; and it's what makes this stuff so unique. It's glamorous and earthy at the same time. The epitome of "Boho-Chic". It astounds me that this was marketed at drug store price points. It's as great as any of the upper echelon fragrances from any house. It's a forgotten, underrated masterpiece, I think...probably just as great on a woman as a man. Okay, so the bottle was not one of Dinand's greatest designs (too 70's even for the 70's). But I really think the Cassini people should bring this back (in a new bottle). It's just too good to go missing to the age of coke spoons and platforms.

    20th September, 2006 (Last Edited: 05 January, 2012)

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    chocolateguy
    Vietnam Vietnam

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    Terre d'Hermès by Hermès

    One of the most Hermes scene IMO. Terre's got its own beautiful bottle, which contains wonderful water inside. I find it really manly, dark, gentle, deluxe and confident. It worths every spray :)

    21st September, 2006

    oolong's avatar
    oolong
    United States United States

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    Ungaro III by Ungaro

    Definitely a dark/gothic scent. I've not run across anything which catches the dark/brooding/sensual feeling better, but then I've not tried Czech and Speake No.88. My only real knock against it is the longevity is only average, about 6 hours on me before it is completely gone which is somewhat borderline to stay in my wardrobe.

    21st September, 2006

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    pandabear25


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    Live by Jennifer Lopez

    This is sweet and slightly floral, I don't smell much violet. Not bad for a fruity/floral mix. I'm not big on these types of scents, but this one is better than the usual. I'm not smelling much of the basenotes now, but will hopefully smell them as the hours go on.

    21st September, 2006

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    pandabear25


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    Tomorrow by Avon

    This is not your typical Avon fragrance. It's described as: a whispering oriental with the warmth of African violet, sunset amber and golden raspberry. It's really quite lovely and warm, has great lasting power. I have the body lotion and the shower cream and they are nice too!

    21st September, 2006

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    pandabear25


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    Brit Gold by Burberry

    I love this about as much as I love the brit red limited edition. It's a strong and heavy vanilla yummy creamy concoction that lasts and lasts. This does seem to be heavier and lasts longer than the original brit. I do like Blu Notte, Indecence and My Queen as well...as suggested I would in a previous review. I haven't tried Flower Oriental though, but would probably like it too. So if you like strong vanilla/orientals and the other perfumes mentioned, you'll probably like this.

    21st September, 2006

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    Quarry
    United States United States

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    Le Boise by Ginestet

    My husband is a home winemaker, and before you scoff, let me direct you to his state fair awards, including best-of-show. Because we don't have French oak barrels here in Wisconsin, he splits pieces of wood from American oak logs, chars them over an open fire (this disinfects them and renders them similar to wine barrel interiors), then drops these sticks into the glass carboys that hold his wines so they may impart their tannic flavor. I'm keen on tannins, and that's probably what caught my attention in Le Boise. Truthfully, the wood is more cedar-like than oaky, but it flatters the white wine quality I clearly detect in LB. This wine, er, I mean fragrance is crisp and sweet, and a really cool change of pace for any fragrance wardrobe.

    21st September, 2006

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    Quarry
    United States United States

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    Palas Atena by Ayala Moriel

    Top notes: Sweet Orange, Lavender, Neroli
    Heart notes: Champaca, Jasmine, Cinnamon
    Base notes: Amber, Patchouli, Sandalwood

    Look at those notes! As an orange blossom junky, I'm drawn to this scent. Yet, that's not all that's here to reward. There are earth nymphs scampering around this orange grove, alternately peaking out from behind the trees. Once in a while I think I'm teased into believing I smell gardenia or cloves, but the notes dart away and hide in the patchouli underbrush. This is the kind of scent I could wear a couple times a week: pretty, not high-pitched (so my "alto nose" is happy), interesting enough not to become boring. The thing that's lacking is a volume knob that would allow me turn up the sillage. Once I find something this pleasing, I don't want to strain to enjoy it.

    21st September, 2006

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    Quarry
    United States United States

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    Espionage by Ayala Moriel

    Family: Oriental Ambery, Oriental Woody, Chypre Leathery
    I need to qualify my perspective--I don't own any oriental frags. Maybe it's because Mom used no spices in her cooking (I still love boiled cabbage, adorned with nothing more than salt). Of all the Ayala Moriel scents I pre-sniffed from my large array of samples, I knew this was the one I'd care for least and the one for which I'd have the least effective vocabulary (my apologies to the reader). I like sugar with my leather (Dzing!, VIP Room), and this is dry. Espionage comes across as unisex, and the floral aspects are not obvious. It smells expensive, not like cheap musk or vanilla scents. The tobacco is subdued, more reminiscent of leaf than smoke. I'm sorry that I'm so unfamiliar with similar scents that I cannot compare this with others of its class. I can say the fragrance wears close to the skin and smells well balanced.

    21st September, 2006

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    robyogi
    United States United States

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    Or des Indes by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

    Yep...powdery, warm, woody, sensual, with a spicy quality. While I think it could be worn by either sex, I think it leans considerably to the feminine side. I find it to be a little too powdery for my tastes and not woody enough.

    21st September, 2006

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    robyogi
    United States United States

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    Noir Epices by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    Severe is a great word to describe this scent. It strikes me as a cross between a chypre and an oriental scent. It is an "oriental" scent without the softening, warming, or sweetening basenotes like vanilla, tonka, civet, musk, and so on. It's striking.

    At first sniff the topnotes do smell much like a gun barrel - a sort of dusty, piercing, metallic smell that I think comes from the orange, spices, and dry floral notes. As it dries down, the spices come into the fore - cinnamon, nutmeg, clove - but unlike most scents where these notes are present, here they are laid bare, like smelling them raw, as they are about to be put into a dish, and not when the dish is cooked and completed. This gives them a dirty, fierce quality. The base, if you can call it that, is similarly bare, angular, and stark. The woods come into the picture and blend with the spices, but I still wouldn't call the scent warm, as is the case with many woodsy scents. Instead, it's hot-and-cold: hot spices and dry woods with a cold metallic quality.

    I consider this one of the most unusual, unique, and avant garde scents I have tried…and I go out of my way to try the weird ones! It's not for everyone, that's for sure, but it routinely makes my top 10 list.

    21st September, 2006

    robyogi's avatar
    robyogi
    United States United States

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    Time Uomo by Krizia

    Time Uomo is a warm, but completely un-sensual, light masculine woods and green florals scent. Think Gendarme with woodsy-green florals in place of Gendarme's detergency and you'd be on the right track. It smells like something that Ellena could have made: light, almost transparent, sort of like the bottom of Terre d'Hermes without the grapefruit or even better, the woodsiness of Bois d'Iris without the iris. Far from "joie de vivre," Time Uomo strikes me as lonely and quiet, like walking through an eerily quiet woods (the way it is right before a storm) by oneself. It's too indistinct, vague, and wispy for my tastes, but some will definitely appreciate its light, inoffensive, and warm woodsy quality.

    21st September, 2006

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    robyogi
    United States United States

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    Musk by Lorenzo Villoresi

    Greatly similar to SMN's Musk, only Villoresi's is stronger, lasts longer, and develops more. It's that semi-powdery, slightly sweet, almost dusty "musk" that I'm guessing comes from plants, as opposed to the musk I remember smelling as a child, stuff my dad and grandfather had lying around for hunting purposes (the MKK variety of muskiness). Maybe this dusty musky quality is created or augmented by the galbanum. Rose yes, but the base is more masculine than feminine in my opinion, and the rose here doesn't bother me in the least. Something about the scent also feels cold and stony, which gives it a cerebral, logical, and calculating feel. I always have this vision of myself as a hitman when I wear this, despite the notes that would suggest this should be a warm, comforting scent. Musk is a great scent, but potent, and I find, hard to wear, so go gently with that sprayer.

    21st September, 2006

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    robyogi
    United States United States

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    Richard James by Richard James

    The other reviewers have done excellent work in describing this scent. Rose and suede, though very masculine and more to the formal side, classy, sophisticated indeed. It darkens the further it dries down, but never loses the rose and suede character. I agree - the intensity and weight of this fragrance make it better suited to cold weather wear. It lasts quite well and projects lots. Expect people to know you are wearing something when you wear this. Reminds me of many 80s scents, only updated, more pleasant to today's sensibilities.

    21st September, 2006

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    teflondog
    United States United States

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    Chêne by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    I ordered this blind and I'm so glad I did!!! This is my favorite SL scent that I've sniffed so far. I get rich honey sitting on top of gorgeous woods. It's like sweet antique furniture. This is everything that Miel de Bois should have been IMO.

    21st September, 2006

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    the_good_life
    Germany Germany

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    4711 Echt Kölnisch Wasser by 4711

    I can't believe serious perfume lovers like this. To Germans it rightfully embodies the epitome of cheaply synthetic drugstore granny cologne. It's agressively sharp, short-lived and tacky and does not hold a stick to a genuine, natural-ingredient Eau de Cologne by Roger et Gallet, Berdoues, or, to stay in Cologne, the original Kölnisch Wasser by Farina. Btw. if you forget about the 4711 myths for a moment - its originator was a speculator and conman who sold it as a cheap imitation of the original Farina cologne under the same name. After decade-long court battles the company had to give up the name Farina and switched to 4711 in the 1880s. The story about the monk's gift of 4711 at Muehlen's wedding and the French officer writing the house number 4711 on the wall are PR-poppycock. To all connaisseurs of perfume I can only say: next time you're in Cologne, avoid the 4711 tourist trap and check out Farina, who are still in business (since 1709)

    21st September, 2006

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    the_good_life
    Germany Germany

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    Aspen Discovery by Coty

    (a W.C. Fields type trying to attract customers to the ramshackle fairground attraction he is standing in front of)
    Yessir, Ladies and Gentlemen, don't miss out on P.T. Coty's sensational Rocky Mountain mechanical diorama. Not like anything you ever want to see, um have ever seen, yeeeees, I can hardly believe it myself and I have to watch it every day. See the great bald eagle spread its wings over presently unsoiled canyons, life size and wing flapping, smell the invigorating Aspen pines, so real you won't believe it, I sincerely promise you won't, and all of this authenticacious near natural Western mountain glory is yours for only 25 cents a sniff here. That won't buy you a ticket to Hoboken, Ladies and Gentlemen. (to himself): Hm, come to think of it, maybe a Hoboken diorama would work better.

    21st September, 2006

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