Perfume Reviews

Latest Perfume Reviews

Total Reviews: 130858

Elvis by Elvis Presley by Frances Denney

Stardate 20161021:

A nice retro animalic the likes of Boss No 1.
Has a mish mash of notes - tea/tobacco, cider and animalic.
Longevity and projection not so great.

Cheap and decent.

If you like Boss no 1 , Madras, Giorgio BH you should try this out but these three (vintage version of course)are better imo

21st October, 2016

Kouros Fraîcheur by Yves Saint Laurent

Beautiful opening, a much less animalic version of Kouros, and a completely different opening with delicious, masculine citrus, and quite different overall for a flanker, comfortably wearable and good for the office with a shaving cream or barber shop feel.
21st October, 2016

Soho by Bond No. 9

Soho is a Madame who wears Bond no 9 B9; this fall season she adds a large hat covered in orange flowers to her outfit.

Wherever she goes, her presence is noted leaving a cloud of her fragrance.

Thumbs up!
21st October, 2016
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rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Vétiver Moloko by Ex Nihilo

On my skin the vetiver is present from the beginning; a clean vetiver, quite bright with no significant earthiness or harsh sides. Combined with a somewhat underwhelming bergamot, it is quite a pleasant entry combination.

In the drydown woodsy accords combines with a rise impression, which remains rather subdued jolds back too much to make a truly lasting impression. There is an agreeable but somewhat unexciting vanilla added towards the end, which is well executed nonetheless. I get, however, very little of the milky way promised in the name.

The sillage is moderate, the projection very good and the longevity eight hours.

Like so often, the top notes are the most convincing part of the development of this creation, and in this case nomen est omen indeed - this is a vetiver-centred spring scent, at least for them first half. The rest is somewhat inferior overall, but the pleasant albeit a bit standard vanilla as well as the solid quality of the ingredients sees it through to cross the line to a positive score - albeit just by the skin of its teeth. 3/5.

21st October, 2016

Ambre Précieux by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

This is much more ambery on me than the Ambre Dore, which I tried recently. The lavender and nutmeg are right there at the opening, along with a slightly dusty, woody note. This seems more unisex that the Ambre Dore – it’s a bit spicier, but still a lovely, warm amber scent. I like it, but alas, it seems that this is another scent that my skin eats – it seemed to disappear after only a few hours. Beautiful while it lasted though.
21st October, 2016

Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent

I'm trying the original version of Kouros, and it's an interesting fragrance with an exciting, animalic opening. The urinous note is not so different from vintage Boss No. 1, which I enjoy. Some moments in the early development are reminiscent of an overused urinal, with an air freshener trying to offset the smell, but as it develops, it's nicer, and smells like an ambitious animalic floral. Into the base, it's an interesting woody fragrance, with a hint of animalic in the background. Overall, a marginal thumbs up, with my preference for something in this vein being vintage Boss.
20th October, 2016
RHM Show all reviews
United States

Central Park West by Bond No. 9

One of the few big white floral fragrances I wear & actually enjoy. My skin turns FRACAS into a demure (not a typo) floral. So it is great to find a great white flora that stays "big" on me.

I get many, many compliments when I wear this. That doesn't happen often, so it's pleasant when it does.
20th October, 2016
Kaern Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Tobacco Absolute by Molton Brown

A truly beautiful tobacco accord achieved by simply mixing the tobacco note with leather and woods while maintaining a sort of transparency -- it never feels heavy. The top notes are so fleeting, I can't describe them especially any hints of grapefruit.

The fragrance performs well for me in all aspects and all for under £40. I would rather have 4 bottles of this than 75ml of Tabarome and most other niche 'tobacco' fragrances actually.
20th October, 2016
Kaern Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Cédrat Enivrant by Atelier Cologne

One of the most wonderful citric openings ever -- a lime and bergamot accord to die for.

It is an out-and-out 'citrus' fragrance imo with just small nods to herbs and woods later on. I don't get any spicy aspects.

Great sillage and longevity. There is no downside.
20th October, 2016
Kaern Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Prada L'Homme by Prada

Well, Prada seem to have run out of ideas and are chasing a winning formula only.

This is Dior Homme minus the 'lipsticky' element.

Just reinforces the idea that these Designer Houses have of male fragrance buyers, i.e. that we are all mindless sheep.

This deserves to 'tank'
20th October, 2016

Ambre Doré by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

This is lovely. When it first went on, it smelt quite green and herby, but after a couple of minutes, I got a lot of the myrrh and the sandalwood. Combined with the clary sage and the agarwood (which I like ALOT) it’s a lovely combination – all of these notes play so beautifully together. After around four hours wear, it had softened into a cosy, warm, almost creamy amber scent. I don’t believe in allocating perfumes to a particular season or time (I firmly believe that if you like it, and it smells good on you, then you should enjoy it and wear it whenever and wherever you like) but I could see this being a lovely autumn or winter scent – this is so warm and soft, it brings to mind cool, crisp breezes and soft snuggly jumpers. A winner.
20th October, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Fleur Narcotique by Ex Nihilo

A bergamot opening embedded in a white floral blend - I get peony and hints of of lily-of-the-valley above all. This is given a nice twist with an infusion of a fresh-peachy aroma that balances out the floral side very pleasantly.

In the drydown the white florals move into the foreground, with a subtle jasmine, orange blossoms and a creamy foundation underneath, but less intensive than the top notes. The base continues the same theme, with nonspecific woodsy and light musky aromas added to it.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.

A not very original but otherwise impeccable floral-fruity opening, delicate but smooth and slightly creamy, especially later in the drydown. Unfortunately, the later development on my skin is flatter, more colourless, and the base is disappointing. Overall I struggle to get this into the positive realm. 2.75/5.
20th October, 2016

Ambre Sultan by Serge Lutens

Stardate 20161019:

A nice Amber fragrance with some vanilla in it. A bit dirtier than most Ambers.

A reference masculine Amber. Enough said.

FB Worthy
19th October, 2016
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Braggi by Long Lost Perfume

Braggi is a dark, warm, powdery fragrance. It has a substantial feel, as if oak moss and patchouli are part of the formula, and the description of leathery tobacco matches the smooth warmth of the fragrance. For what I have in my collection, this reminds me most of Bel Ami, although this is more powdery, and I also get a hint of the Paco Rabanne Pour Homme soapiness.
19th October, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Oud Vendôme by Ex Nihilo

Ginger and saffron galore indeed - a smooth and slightly fuzzy saffron, not the more intense version of Comptoir Pacifique's Sultan Safran.

The ginger has a crisp edge that has synthetic-sharpish characteristics and is a bit more of the usual ilk - not the richer juicier ginger that is present in Creed's Tabarôme Millesimé - but it is not badly done, and works quite well with the saffron here.

Gradually the gingery note morphs by adding the oud, which gradually grows stronger and blends in with the he ginger, to revolve into the main component by the time the base notes unfold. This is a far cry from the hyperaggresive-superchemical oud attacks on is exposed to so frequently these days.

Galbanum is added at the begin of the heart notes, as is a soft, gentle and refreshingly unobtrusive incense impression that never pushes into the limelight - a glowing, intense but restrainedly low-key incense endowed with touches of elegance. No aggressive peppers, no ceremonial pomp, no exotic market aromas, and no medicinal undertones - this is a pared-down and convincingly focused velvety incense that blends in beautifully with the rest.

Initially accompanied by a gentle musky undertone, this delightfully wood-infused incense forms the core notes in the base phase on my skin.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a supreme fourteen hours of longevity on my skin.

This wintery oud-incense creation is unusually balanced and well executed; and whilst it is creative only for part of its development, it is overall surprisingly well made. 3.5/5.
19th October, 2016

Woto by Deviline

A nice, powdery, creamy oak moss fragrance with a light sweetness, and maybe a dash of musk, a little like Chanel No. 19, but with a darker powder smell, more masculine and complex.
18th October, 2016

Pasha by Cartier

Stardate 20161018:

A good affordable classic masculine aromatic fougere.

This is one of the few cases where reformulation is well done and you should be fine with any version. The vintage is smoother but new one projects more. They both last a workday. The spicy note is more prominent in the current version whereas the base in vintage shines through more as spices take a back stage. So if that cumin BO note bothers you, vintage might work better for you.

The structure is that of an aromatic fougere and if you have tried Safari, Tsar, Jazz you should know what to expect.

Can be had for under $30/100ml - a no brainer.

18th October, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Bois d’Hiver by Ex Nihilo

Cardamom, cyclamen and heliotropes - and that with a dash of light pepper - resulting in a pleasant dish of top notes. Quite original and well balanced, with the pepper being quite restrained and more a condiment than in the foreground. This is not a heavily spicy opening.

The drydown and floral undertones, a soft patchouli above all, and is followed by mixed woods that lead into - and later on dominate - the base. They are mainly cedar, a light cedar without any heavy pencil shavings.

This base lingers on, pleasantly woody and fades gradually.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and eleven hours of longevity on my skin.

An agreeable autumn creation, well blended, a touch creative in the opening and well balanced, with the synthetic notes not overtly chemical. 3.25/5.
18th October, 2016
Oviatt Show all reviews
United States

Patou Pour Homme (new) by Jean Patou

The dictionary tells us that a sacred cow is an idiom that represents an idea, custom, or institution held, especially unreasonably, to be above criticism (with reference to the Hindus' respect for the cow as a sacred animal). Jean Kerleo’s 1980 Patou Pour Homme is a sacred cow if ever there was one.

Interestingly, when Patou Pour Homme was first released, it was not a big hit and, like the writer John Kennedy O’Toole, only received acclaim and adoration after its death. Patou made an attempt at product placement, positioning it as Don Johnson’s signature scent in Miami Vice, but it never took off, despite its brilliance. Discontinued, it became the Holy Grail of vintage perfume collectors, demanding prices commensurate with its demand.

Fast forward to 2014 when the House of Patou, under its new owners Shaneel Enterprises, reissued this mythical fragrance as part of their Collection Heritage under the direction of house perfumer Thomas Fontaine. This was huge news and eagerly awaited by the perfume community who sharpened their knives and were prepared to use them, should the reformulation fall short of expectations. The only other relaunch as keenly scrutinized has been the relaunch of another sacred cow, Helmut Lang’s Cuiron.

The relaunched scent is currently available and is very good—very good, indeed. Is it as good as Kerleo’s masterpiece? Far be it from me to say….

What I can say is that the new scent, in an IFRA-dominated word, has lost its oakmoss and Mysore sandalwood—well, that is no surprise—and gained a floral heart with lavender, jasmine, rose and violet joining the lineup, edging out the original vetiver, cedar patchouli and clary sage. These floral notes are more commonly used in feminine perfumes and the rose/jasmine accord is almost a house note for Patou, whose landmark perfume, Joy, is based on it.

Has Patou Pour Homme been emasculated, or just brought into the current age? The new scent is completely wearable now and while it may not have the richness and complexity of the original—or its resolutely masculine edge—it is beautiful, rich and expensive smelling. The spicy top notes of pepper are freshened by citrus and galbanum. A floral heart emerges that might once have seemed too feminine but now feels comfortably masculine. The base of leather and patchouli, while it does not compare to the woods and moss in the original, provides a warm, lingering drydown.

The reformulated Patou Pour Homme may no longer walk on water but it is still a very good scent—no longer a sacred cow, but just a quality, distinctive men’s scent. This could easily find a following in the market the way that the original never did; it has come out from under a bell jar and into our time. Seekers of perfection will continue their quest for vintage juice, but if you have not tried the original, try this—it is very good.

17th October, 2016 (last edited: 19th October, 2016)

Oud Délice by Robert Piguet

Stardate 20161017:

All I get is coconut candy (almond joy) for first few hours and then some synthetic oud. A bad one at that.

A disappointment from a house that typically produces good fragrances.
I guess they wanted to jump onto the gourmand-oud bandwagon.
17th October, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Venenum Kiss by Ex Nihilo

The opening posts a vetiver that is accompanied by saffron and nutmeg, and two of these three are quite generic - only the nutmeg - as bland as it is - shows some individual characteristic that might possibly be convincing.

The next phase of florals, led by a rose note that is of limited interest, launches into and ambroxan-vanilla duo that is again quite generic, although at times the vanilla comes across quite nicely at times; and the vanilla is actually not particularly sweet on my skin.

The main course (or curse) of the base menu consists of this very ambery note, combined with a loud, crisp and penetrating styrax; a nonspecific woodsy undertone is also present. This all together develops into one of these highly intrusive, aggressive and overly synthetic woody-chemico-oud cocktails, straight out of the laboratory and reminding me of certain wood polishes. Now such cocktails are found a lot in contemporary fragrances, but here it tops off what is in general a less-than-convincing creation. This pseudo-oud has nigh toxic vibes - maybe that is where this product's name is derived from.

I get strong sillage, excellent projection and an impressive ten hours of longevity on my skin.

This autumnal scent is not bad, but quite mediocre. 2:5/5.
17th October, 2016

Private Label by Jovoy

As a rule, leather smells good, but some leather has a chemical smell as if something harsh was used instead of traditional processing, and that's the kind of leather smell I get from Jovoy Private Label, off-gassing chemical leather, and this is mixed with woody notes similar to what I smell marketed as oud in 2016. In the base, the best of the composition comes out, a light, woody soapiness.
16th October, 2016

Femme Jolie by Sonoma Scent Studio

A beautiful candied violet and cinnamon beginning that leads into a woody cedar

and then nothing.

Occasionally a nice woody cinnamon whisper, if I look for it, and it's been less than an hour. It might be worth revisiting in the summer
16th October, 2016

1828 by Histoires de Parfums

Usually don't like vetiver scents but this one got better and better as it dried down. Nice citrus up front and then the vetiver kicks in, making it smell clean and fresh. Later on the woods and incense getting going and give it a modern feel. At that point, I was really liking it and feeling confident about it and sure enough, I get a compliment from the wife. She usually only goes for safe, modern fragrances, so this one surprised me.
16th October, 2016

Pegaso by Etro

It is a really nice fragrance, that notwithstanding it has a longevity, projection and sillage issue. A very nice scent. It is clean clean, but at a cost. Far too expensive.
16th October, 2016

Evening Edged in Gold by Ineke

This is a pleasant enough scent and I can't really find anything wrong with it, but I don't really like it.

The beginning is "perfumey" a blend of florals and something else, none of which I could really identify.

After that there is an absolutely beautiful floral that distinguishes itself. My nose identified it as jasmine, but I could see how it could be osmanthis. Followed by a nicely blended patchouli with some sweet notes and a bit of amber.

And then it gets perfumey again.

I think that this might be the type of fragrance that really blooms on the right skin, so I suggest everyone try it. I'm not sure if it's my body chemestry or just a style of blending that I don't care for here.
16th October, 2016

Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford

"Give me 1 ping and 1 ping only!"

Great novelty scent. Less is more... especially if vanilla, no matter how well done, is but a toleration rather than a celebration. More sprays for the Ladies? Sure, but it's a cloying risk.

There are masculine tobacco scents I find more appealing, versatile and inexpensive as compared to TV, however, every so often there's nothing quite like a spritz under that favorite baseball cap bill, thick wool sweater, etc., to accompany a walk through autumnal woods, pipe or cigar in hand and dog at my side.

I'm only familiar with pre-2010.
16th October, 2016

Ambre 114 by Histoires de Parfums

Buttery, sugary, vanilla. Like a freshly-baked cookie. Not my style but many like this sort of thing. Smells nice, just not anything I would like to wear or smell on someone. In a kitchen from the oven, yes. Some herbal notes do appear after a while.
16th October, 2016

Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent

Although I have tried twice to like this juice, I have been unable to take a shine to it. There is a lot to appreciate here, bold, sensual and animalistic for sure. However, I keep getting a "well used public restroom" vibe that ruins it for me.

It deserves credit for stretching the limits and making an independent statement. It is a very good candidate for a test vial purchase. Its not a "me too" scent for sure. I wish I could have taken to it. It's just not for me.
16th October, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Musc Infini by Ex Nihilo

White musky opening aromas greet me in the opening moments - and they are the core note in the first phase of the development of this creating. Hints and mandarin and grapefruit, and a rather synthetic ambery background make themselves felt in the drydown, as does a light patchouli

In the base a pleasant, sweet but not cloying tonka note develops, with heavy lashings of benzoin draped over it like a smooth veil. A contemporaneous creamy light powderiness is the main accompaniment in the base.

The sillage is moderate, the projection excellent and the longevity a respectable ten hours on my skin.

A pleasant and smooth autumn scent for colder days, is is a nice scent apart from a certain predictability and at times a nigh-generic synthetic undertone. 2.75/5
16th October, 2016