Perfume Reviews

Latest Perfume Reviews

Total Reviews: 132816
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Ambre Russe by Parfum d'Empire

A boozy and slightly cinnamon-laced amber. Softly glowing and delicious the amber is, wamr and wintery.

The drydown adds tea and incence spices, nut quite faded in the base.

The sillage is moderate, the projection is very good and the longevity tem hours.

Autumnal, and very smooth and ambery - 3.25/5.
21st January, 2017

Krizia Uomo Istinto by Krizia

What a weird and unique fragrance is it!! One of the most resinous scents ever, a super rubbery/resinous and aromatic/spicy patchouli with a moody appeal and a leathery substance. Krizia Uomo Istinto starts weirdly rubbery-resinous (heady frankincense and amber galore) and super peppery but by soon like unfolding a sombre, vaguely liturgic, impersonal, aromatic, stark aura. Pepper is misty, "hairy" (I mean really piquant and craggy) and sticky (amber and frankincense are combined in a sticky-balsamic "fir resins' aroma conjuring" take no prisoners accord). There is a sort of Santa Maria Novella Nostalgia-like aura but overall in a less rubbery and more resinous way (with this strange sort of creamy-spicy resinous smoky aura a la Ziberman Oriental Adler or Miller Harris La Fumee). I get this dense incensey virile assertive patchouli overall while geranium provides a tad of fresh lymphatic leafiness. I don't get properly powder but mostly creamy resins, woodsy resins, "hard rock smoky leather" and mossy labdanum. Dry down is a pleasant synth woodsy (labdanum/frankincense-based), virile, grey (vaguely rosey) and leathery (black leather jacket like) accord to fully enjoy ok skin. Thumbs up.
19th January, 2017

Memoirs of a Trespasser by Imaginary Authors

I am almost always 99% in sync with the estimable ClaireV's opinions -- and 100% entertained by her witty writing.

And in the case of this scent, she is absolutely accurate in every description of its components and effects. But in a Bizarro World twist, every element of it that she finds objectionable I find utterly enchanting. Opening of "musky raw woods and candied grapefruit rind"? Check. Midpoint of "skanky moment...grappa...wood solvent"? Check. Ending of "woodsy or boise vanilla"? Check. And I love every second of it.

Vive la difference! Or perhaps: One woman's meat is another woman's poison?

I do seem to be getting a much greater smoky effect and much less sweetness than other wearers. In fact, the very rough vanilla is to me much more like a burning vanilla-ish pipe tobacco than a foody vanilla. And the sweetness, rather than candy, smells to me more like the smoke that wafts up from burning sugar, which I think does bear some resemblance to the sweet/bitter bite of candied grapefruit peel. Rough, harsh, and cozy, all at the same time. Plus: a staggering 18 hours of longevity. Straight to the top of my FBW list.
19th January, 2017
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Pour Un Homme by Caron

Stardate 20170119:

Vintage Version:

For the record I love lavender and get my fix from the lavender farmer at the farmers market in Manhattan.

I have no idea why this is so liked. Lavender and vanilla just don't work here.
Any lavender oil is better than this abomination.

Come to think of it Caron makes crappy masculines - this, 3 Man, Yatagan. All meh and overrated IMO

Avoid this and get lavender oil instead (available in your neighborhood grocery store)
19th January, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Ambre Nue by Atelier Cologne

The opening declares itself as an amber straight away, smooth but with a fresher bergamot edge initially, with judicious doses of marigold and cinnamon combining with benzoin to create the amber impression. This amber is rounded and not sharp at all.

Soon a lovely labdanum develops, together with a very soft patchouli adding additional depth and richness to the amber core. In the base added tonka and vanilla give it a sweet note, but only gently so.

The sillage is moderate, the projection excellent, and the longevity is ten hours on my skin.

A very nice autumnal and versatile amber composition that is very well blended. 3.5/5.
19th January, 2017

Le Gemme : Ambero by Bulgari

I was lucky enough to recently try a tester of this at the Bvlgari display in David Jones store in Sydney. The bottle itself wasn't on display as they will not be selling these until late February 2017, but the SA knew that I would be interested, so he bought out the tester bottles of this one, and the Onekh leather one and the Gyan jasmine/patchouli one.

The bottles are stunning in person and are a nice counter-point to the female Le Gemme series.

Ambero starts out very Oriental. The ginger, saffron and pepper are all distinguishable and soon the fragrance settles on the skin as a comfortable and familiar amber style of fragrance. Unlike a lot of other amber fragrances on the market, this one is not paired with tonka, vanilla or any type of dried fruit. However the familiarity I think comes from the recently released Colonia Ambra from Acqua di Parma.

As to longevity and sillage, I can't yet comment as I've only been wearing this for 2 hours. However, these are all EDP's so I would hope both would be considerable.

Of the 3 I tried I think that Gyan is the most unique and probably full bottle worthy.
19th January, 2017

Fallen Leaves by Anna Zworykina Perfumes

I sampled half a dozen of the Zworykina perfumes, having read an approving review by Luca Turin. This was the one I could relate to the most.

Like Turin I am not normally enthusiastic about natural perfumes as they arguably impose an unnatural constraint on creativity. However, like him I feel they should be supported and encouraged along with home make cake and home brewed beer.

Fallen leaves does not smell precisely like fallen leaves; for some thoughts on how a more accurate rendering might may be attempted see the basenotes discussion. Without GCMS facilities it is probably very difficult. However, the Zworykina product does go some way towards meeting the concept in the abstract.

Smelling it blind (to avoid bias) I had the impression of a sophisticated lavender composition, like the mens fragrances of years ago. Probably with some lavender absolute, I thought. Reading the ingredient list I noted there is no lavender, though tonka is mentioned, which is possibly where the overlap occurred. The immortelle comes through nicely in the drydown, after a couple of days.

Overall, Fallen Leaves is a smooth and harmonious fragrance and pleasing to the senses, so I have given it the thumbs up. I remain to be convinced about all-natural perfumery, though.
18th January, 2017 (last edited: 20th January, 2017)

Bois du Portugal by Creed

Bois du Portugal is one of the top members of the Creed-dynasty on the side of Vintage Tabarome, Cuir de Russie, Green Irish Tweed, Royal English Leather and few others. A super classic really masculine gentlemen-fragrance with a stout smoky woody-leathery initial assault (yet luxurious and royal due to a decadent hesperidic vibe), a green-spicy core (aromatic, vaguely minty, lemony-cologney and musky) and a luxurious "stuffy-retro" victorian final vibe a la (even for diverse reasons) Aramis JHL, Guerlain Mitsouko, Derby or Clinique Aromatics Elixir (with a restrained virile twist afforded by woods and spicy ambergris). Bergamot, aromatic lavender, astringent cedar, piquant ambergris and powdery woods unfold a quite classic-barbershop vibe in the middle between the great French chypre tradition, the 80's powerful aromatic fougere and the rosey-laundry victorian British olfactory historic school. Dry down is a gorgeous mix of powdery-mossy vaguely rosey woods (chypre, green-minty and poudree), spicy-hesperidic ambergris (piquant and virile) and stuffy powdery/hesperidic earthiness. An "ethernal" aristocratic fragrance (evocative about Royal Gardens) which will make you lording over all the other "lofty-affected" banqueters at Royal Court.
18th January, 2017 (last edited: 19th January, 2017)
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Ambre Fétiche by Annick Goutal

This opening blast is quite something! Burning smoky rubber, leather, hints of latex, some benzoin with resinous birchtar - a delightful blend of rough smoky leather. At that stage the amber is more like a backdrop on this dramatic olfactory canvas.

The core principle underlying the development of the drydown is: lose the rough edges gradually, introduce a floral component, mainly iris, and see the amber increase in intensity and its presence over time gradually. Over time this turns into a warm, glowing and smooth amber, which dominates the base and peters out gradually.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and an impressive ten hours of longevity on my skin.

The first stage is very convincing, albeit of less high quality than, for instance, Knize Ten, and with a somwhat contrived leather impression, but nonetheless well crafted. The later stages with the amber in the centre of their development are also lovely, but a bit more linear. Overall a rather nice product. 3.5/5.

18th January, 2017

Montana Parfum d'Homme (original) by Montana

Stardate 20170117:

I don't know what I can add here that has not already been covered by the ambassador of this fragrance Monsieur Montana.
It is a great masculine fragrance. As already pointed out by DuNezDeBuzier, this is similar to Havana in structure. I find some Jacomo de Jacomo in it too.
Patch, spices and manliness in a bottle that will not break the bank.
17th January, 2017

Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford

From start to finish I love this scent (my wife on the other hand HATES IT). Any who some scents I wear for my personal enjoyment. As for the scent... it is a stunner. Strong at the start with gourmandish spices and a sweet honey like tobacco... the middle is also an amazing mix of vanilla and tobacco with a hint of tonka and cocoa to my nose. The dry down of woods with lingering vanilla and tobacco is simply amazing. A scent that will remain in my collection for as long as it's made (even if the price is slightly prohibitive). Enjoy!
17th January, 2017

Midnight in the Palace Garden by 4160 Tuesdays

It's an oud perfume. Nothing groundbreaking if I'm honest, nothing too offensive either. In the dry down it turns from a strong oud to more of a woody number. I don't really notice the flower elements, there is a sweet element to it. I think its easily worn by both men and women, but it's not the most remarkable or interesting ouds there. It's nicely blended though

Longevity is surprising short, after 4 hours it became much harder to detect. I used about 0.5 ml so I'm surprised it goes so quickly.
17th January, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Jubilation 25 by Amouage

The opening notes, a brightish rose with ylang-ylang, davana and a hesperidic touch, are pleasant and well balanced with their sweetness that is not too heavy. The drydown adds whiffs of incense, tarragon and a slightly herbal cistus undertone.

The base adds a bit of a somewhat nondescript fruitiness, vetiver, but is also characterised by a very soft myrrhe compenent that is intertwined with a fairy generic soft patchouli.

I get moderate sillage, strong projection and eleven hours of longevity on my skin.

Thr first half of this autumnal creation, good especially for evenings, is dense and intensive, whilst the later parts are a touch less vivid and duller. Overall a nice creation and not without interesting ideas, and performing extremely well. 3.5/5.
17th January, 2017
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Baccarat Rouge 540 by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

I love it. Doesn't get the love it deserves. Some say it's too sweet or too feminine. I can name a lot more fragrances men wear, that come across way too Feminine.
The floral aspect in minimal. I get more wood. So I would say it's an oriental Woody. Well done by Mr. Kurkdjian.
16th January, 2017

Tubereuse 3 L'Animale by Histoires de Parfums

Tubereuse 3 Animale by Histoires de Parfums opens with intense grapy tuberose with a touch of menthol. The fragrance quickly settles down into an oak moss (maybe)and pipe tobacco combination that comes across as a bit vintage. I’m not really picking up on the “green grass” note because the composition leans a little towards musty books and fruit—a little reminiscent of Mitsouko. Also, I’m not entirely sure about the “animale” part; the tuberose is definitely full-on, but not as indolic as other tuberose fragrances. The quality/performance is decent, so I would definitely recommend this fragrance to someone wanting to smell like white flowers and old books.

3.5/5
16th January, 2017

Rochas Lui by Rochas

I found a lone bottle of Lui sitting on the shelf of a fragrance kiosk in the mall when I was traveling. The shop keeper said it was $65 CdN for a 100ml bottle, which is a steal considering the prices this goes for on eBay. I decided to blind buy it because of its reputation and reviews.

I haven't spent a ton of time with this but trust me, it's fantastic. As described, it's a clash of two different olfactory genres: vibrant citrus notes meets soft, cozy oriental notes of woods, vanilla, and amber.

The perfumer behind the long loved but gone Gucci Pour Homme (2003) is behind this, so if you like that, you'll likely like this. Think of Lui as a fresh or summer flanker to it.
16th January, 2017

Guilty by Gucci

Gucci guilty is a fragrance that I always wanted to dislike, but just could not find the gumption to be completely grossed out. It’s excessively fruity in that shrill North American mall sort of way—one of my pet peeves when it comes to designer fragrances. Guilty opens with a boozy lychee note that settles down into a synthetic peach that just doesn’t want to go away. After being hit over the head with terrifying fruit, one becomes aware of a nice green spring floral note (lilac / lily-of-the-valley) and a touch of sensual musk similar to the one found in NR For Her. The result smells like a quintessential designer fragrance for women, with a touch of weirdness, maybe a little sweat. The best part is that Guilty doesn’t fall apart on the skin and it continues to develop into something more approachable as the hours wear on.

Not my thing, but not bad; a nice springtime scent

3/5
16th January, 2017

Devin by Aramis

I was gifted Devin one year as a hint to step outside the classic Aramis EDT as a relative of mine claimed that Devin was a finer juice...no it isn't.A very heavy base and amber,with cinnamon submerged in it.Carnation and moss but fused together it smells off-putting,damp, and rotten.There is an animalic quality to Devin a little too rich but that green/floral rot just makes you want to scrub this cologne off.

Two wearings and I chucked it...couldn't stand the stuff.
16th January, 2017

Adidas Ice Dive by Adidas

I've only had the aftershave of Ice Dive by Adidas.What I pick up is sharp,but clean grapefruit.Something lightly green (a pinch of mint perhaps) and a light leather.This was tolerable and at least fresher versus the metallic bomb known as 'Moves for Him' by Adidas.
16th January, 2017

Aramis Black by Aramis

Dry and thin but ultimately a very fresh and pleasant scent. I get the cognac, sweet woods, berries and floral, in that order. For being as light as it is to the nose, it does seem to hang around and not become just another skin scent. Unique and nothing special all at the same time, if possible. I don't think I have anything else to compare this to.
16th January, 2017

Cambodi 10-yr Aged Oud by Abdul Samad Al Qurashi

Not a fragrance but a product of pure distillation. Another dark-smoky potion from this specialized "Middle Eastern perfumery brand" as product of pure distillations of woody resins formed as a result of natural infections affecting several species of Aquilaria (agarwood) evergreen trees. Along the time these infections naturally cause the trees to produce a really viscous resin as a by-product due to attack this infection. Oudh is the "outcome" of this "ancient" woody resins' distillation-process. Even in this case this arcane potion is mouldy as a dark cave studded inside by extinguished bonfires, mossy moulds, stale humidity and burnt odorous woody-rubbery resins. Just for the straightforward lovers of this "hard extreme" genre. A "fumidus" hyper dry woody potion (yet vaguely petroleous) a la Montale Dark Aoud (being the latter on the contrary anyway synthetic) but natural, far more realistic, stark and liturgically ritual. A stinky bitter-licoricey supremely woody "odor". A medieval kind of ghostly "miasma" heralding images of fortified citadels, steel swords, steamy castles, battlefields, warriors barbarians, bronze armatures and knights-errant.
16th January, 2017

Versace pour Homme Dylan Blue by Versace

Versace Pour Homme Dylan Blue is a spicy/woody/aquatic based on a central accord of piquant spices, citrus, violet, sharp salty woods and mineral ozonics. The first blast is like a photocopy of the "sadly departed" Byblos Uomo (this is the good news, many notes in common indeed: musk, bergamot, lavender, ambrox, violet, spices, patchouli, aromatic herbs, mineral-ozonic notes, sharp woods etc. I see in this phase also a tad of Chopard Heaven, Paco Rabanne Invictus, Bond N. 9 I Love NY for Him and Chanel Bleu) but after five minutes the mainstream stark salty-gassy woodiness (which is taking the world by storm by now) starts screaming out peppery-dusty (even more salty and gassy, like a crazy schizophrenic oceanic kind of Bvlgari Man Extreme ideally joined to a whichever "crunchy" Givenchy Gentlemen Only or Dior Sauvage) with my huge bored disappointment. Nothing more to add. Not for me.
16th January, 2017

Dzongkha by L'Artisan Parfumeur

This goes pretty much straight to vetiver on me, and stays there. Doesn't stay for long though. Lovely scent, not sure I need a bottle.
16th January, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Vanille Tonka by Nicolaï

This vanilla-tonka dyad is the golden thread and core of this composition, enriched ny undertones if mandarine and orange flower that balance out the vanilla sweetness. Interestingly, whilst clearly sweet, this one in never sticky or cloying on my skin; it is endowed with a touch of slimness and elegance.

This opening mix sheds the citrus is the drydown, in order to replace it with a smooth and gentle frankincense, with a veil of a mildly honeyed cinnamon veil draped over it. With time the tonka - admixed with whiffs of the incense - wins out and becomes more dominant until the end.

The sillage is moderate, the projection is excellent and the longevity is a stupendous thirteen hours on my skin.

This scent for warmer winter days is smooth and comforting whilst never being heavy. During the first half is remains a bit too restrained and too thin, but with times it becomes more intensive. Whilst not ultra-creative, it is solidly made, some ingredients are of high quality, and the overall impression is on the positive side - but with a wafer-thin margin. 3.25/5.
16th January, 2017

Green Irish Tweed by Creed

Over hyped and over priced.

Green, fresh, inoffensive. Something I wear to work.

It isn't this unique "masterpiece" that I have to pair with a suit or every special occasion.

It's a good fragrance, but no where near as good as the hype or the price.
16th January, 2017

Sauvage by Christian Dior

I was greatly appalled by this fragrance, I couldn't believe such mediocrity would from the same house that gave us trendsetting fragrances like Dior Homme. Call it love or hate but personally I was more disappointed than anything else... if you like Sauvage and it works for you, save yourself the money and get Avon's Luck for Him it's pretty the same stuff.
16th January, 2017

Replica Jazz Club by Martin Margiela

Excellent! A smooth vanilla rum cocktail with flickers of other spices that pop in and out. This is a nice boozy fragrance. It is in the amber/vanilla category and described as follows: someone asked that The One by Dolce & Gabana be re-done and be de-done well--with quality ingredients and at proper settings. I'm glad I bought this.
16th January, 2017

Pineapple Vintage Noir by Parfums Vintage

A great smelling Aventus clone that falls short in a couple of categories. First off the good. Vintage noir is made up of high quality ingredients and it is apparent in every stage. This is higher quality than Scent of Peace and Cedrat Boise and I would go as far to say that this smells better than Aventus itself due to the phenomenonal Pineapple note. Now the not great which is the longevity and protection which is average at best. Secondly this does not smell like a vintage smokey batch of Aventus. Very little smokiness at all. Finally, this needs more red apple and black currant and it is lacking big time in those notes. Overall, it is a very good interpretation, but at $150 this needs some tweaking in order to drop down that type of cash on a clone. Good, but not great.
16th January, 2017

Nautica Classic by Nautica

One thing I'll never forget about Nautica Classic is just how much it was advertised.A lot in department stores and probably commercialized on TV more than a Skin Bracer commercial.Time has made this scent very affordable,back then it wasn't though

This stuff was the gift to upper middle class kids by parents who bought them what was in vogue at that timeframe.Tommy Hilfiger Jeans,Reebok Pump sneakers,a Vanilla-Ice haircut,and this cologne.They weren't speaking in Ebonics yet but you see where trends go mapping whom you are through mainstream media trends.So yes Nautica Classic invokes a memory lightly smelling this on people.

It wasn't until eight years ago that I bothered to try a sample of this scent.I got an oceanic scented laundry detergent from it as the base...highly synthetic.A chemical-washed sandalwood and a bitter citrus.It smells more pleasant on someone than it does actually wearing it in my opinion.It lacks creativity though as I feel aquatics seem so elementary to design versus actual craftsmanship in perfumery.Ice Blue by Aqua Velva smells richer than this stuff...but not as airy or windy like Nautica captures.On myself it doesn't seem to hang on more than an hour with low projection.No love lost there since I have no intention of buying it.On a side note it's crazy how pricey this cologne by Nautica used to be back then versus how cheap it is now.Amazing how trend can make people overlook scent quality.At least it's cheap now for those who like it.
16th January, 2017

Reflection Man by Amouage

Got a £million? Me neither. I once read something along the lines that there are a couple of things that no one should skimp on in life, regardless of wealth. It was obviously aimed at anyone who had a few quid to spare, but not a couple of million quid. Shoes came in at number one. You spend a whole lot of time on your feet (33% by all accounts, or thereabouts). So buy the best pair of shoes you can afford. Makes sense. The next, a decent bed. I concur. We spend a solid 33% of our time curled up in the land of nod after all. Next comes all kinda of stuff. Stuff that makes no sense. I'd like to add to that list. I won't argue with the shoes or the bed. But I'd like to add a third, perfectly defined, category. Smell. A person who skimps on the way they smell ignores who they are. Or, more importantly, who they fancy themselves to be. Smell has the potential to be one of the great levelers in this life. For the cost of a pair of decent upper-middle class shoes, one can smell like a £million. It takes a little effort for sure. But your effort will reap rewards way beyond actually having to get lucky enough to have been born into old money. The way we smell says considerably more about who we are than which school we went to. This beautiful scent will say a couple of things about you. True or nay. It will tell people that you are a millionaire just for starters. Yes, for a mere one and a half hundred quid, people will assume, just from the way you smell, that you are minted. Next, it will say that you have taste. Jeeze, the damn thing smells like taste! If that's not enough, it WILL get you laid. I kid you not. Wear Amouge Reflection and there isn't a man, woman, mineral or vegetable that won't be interested in getting into your pants/ knickers. I guarantee you. This stuff smells like you've made it in life and have nothing left to prove.
16th January, 2017
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