Fragrance Reviews from October 2007

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    tvlampboy's avatar

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    Opium pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

    Far, far preferable in its edp form. The edp is rich and sweet and truly Oriental, while the edt is more about spice and sillage and a certain dryness I can't quite put my finger on. Both are good frags; however, the edp version is a truly GREAT frag.

    16 October, 2007

    tvlampboy's avatar

    United States United States

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    Route du Vétiver by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

    Dirty, earthy, opulently masculine take on Vetiver. No citrus here. No cloying sweetness. No stale tobacco. This is dirty, sexy, bold and rustic vetiver at its (pardon the pun) root.

    Top notch stuff? You bet. For the faint of heart? Not on your life.

    16 October, 2007

    tvlampboy's avatar

    United States United States

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    Tea for Two by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    My favorite L'Artisan frag to date -- spicy, rich, sweet tea with honey. Definitively unisex; absolutely timeless. Far, far superior to the host of cloying and synthetic "tea" offerings on both the men's and women's frag markets today.

    Cheap? No. But certainly worth shelling out a few greenbacks for. This one is on my Christmas wish list for 2007 -- and I damn well better get a bottle.

    16 October, 2007

    tvlampboy's avatar

    United States United States

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    Ungaro II by Ungaro

    Pluran says "libidinous." Robyogi says "libertine." May I add the plebeian but ever so appropriate "nasty" here?

    This is by far the sexiest of the three Ungaros, hands down. Be forewarned that the civet note is VERY pronounced, and Ungaro II may well go on your skin smelling distinctly fecal for the first twenty or more minutes.

    Marvelous blend of crisp (but not overly bright) citric notes, downright opulent vanilla, delectable rose and (of course) the all too famous civet. Indisputably a "must try once" kind of frag.

    16 October, 2007

    tvlampboy's avatar

    United States United States

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    Desire Blue by Dunhill

    Better than many aquatics, but that ain't sayin' much. Good staying power, I suppose.

    Can you tell that I'm pretty much neutral on this one? I'm going to bed now.

    16 October, 2007

    tvlampboy's avatar

    United States United States

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    Bogart pour Homme by Jacques Bogart

    Marvelous staying power and incredible sillage in this spicy, patchouli-laden bargain of a frag! Take my advice (and the advice of Thrax and knightowl before me): get a bottle. Keep a bottle. Love a bottle.

    Easily one of the best bargain frags on the market today.

    16 October, 2007

    tvlampboy's avatar

    United States United States

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    Allure Homme Sport by Chanel

    One of the few "sport" colognes that doesn't make me want to retch. (And that's high praise from me.) It does, however, smell very, very similar to its pater familias, Allure. (I'm just not sure that I'd go to the bother and expense for a bottle of each on my bureau.)

    16 October, 2007

    tvlampboy's avatar

    United States United States

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    Eau de New York by Bond No. 9

    Gorgeous, light and airy. Easily unisex, too (as it was meant to be). Easily one of Bond's best.

    16 October, 2007

    tvlampboy's avatar

    United States United States

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    Fou d'Absinthe by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Complex and splendid -- easily one of L'Artisan's finest creations. Along with Yatagan and Polo, Fou d'Absinthe is one of the very best pine fragrances available.

    I dare not use very much, though, as it's quite strong (and a touch expensive). Well worth every penny, granted, but still too expensive to run through as I do my Yatagan.

    Interesting drydown on this one -- very much so. From the sharp and warm coniferous notes into a coy and very interesting set of licorice-y notes (must be the absinthe) mingled with ginger. Lovely.

    16 October, 2007

    tvlampboy's avatar

    United States United States

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    West Side by Bond No. 9

    Delish. Far better than the Caron everyone compares it to, although I can certainly see the similarities. Imagine Royal Bain with better ingredients and far more staying power and projection. This is a bright, vibrant, delectable frag. Unisex? Yes, but be prepared for one helluva floral opening, guys.

    16 October, 2007

    vawallpa's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Intimately Beckham Night Men by Beckham

    This bears little resemblance to the original Intimately Beckham, but more to the great Obsession Night. This is not neccesarily a bad thing, I just see no need in having both. I would opt for Beckham Night over Obsession Night due to better longevity.

    16 October, 2007

    Andrewthecologneguy's avatar

    Nigeria Nigeria

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    Michael for Men by Michael Kors

    I was going to knock HUGO BOSS Dark Blue for being a copy of Michael, but alas it is the other way around.
    This is Dark Blue plus a "man musk" which explains why women LOVE this. If you are uncomfortable being a walking penis (albeit cloaked in an Armani suit) then steer clear of this. If you enjoy the likes of Terre d'Hermes (deep strong dirty) this is for you.
    After smelling this, I am ready to get rid of my HB Dark Blue. Anybody want it?

    16 October, 2007

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Sous Le Vent by Guerlain

    Scent notes for Sous le Vent: bergamot, basil, lavender, tarragon, carnation, jasmine, oakmoss, iris, woods, patchouli.
    This is a green, dusky, dry chypre. The bottle (most attractively packaged, in a splash format) has a pamphlet with a charming story of how this was created for the noted Parisian cabaret dancer, Josephine Baker. I read a blog which called this “the best feminine to be worn by men” and I agree (as do other reviewers below). There is nothing here to keep a man from wearing it. SLV has some floral sweetness (a bit of powdery iris, some fragrant jasmine) but it is in essence quite dry, even austere. Great... my favorite style! It is very interesting and quite complex. Initially it is very green, even a bit sharp, and it makes an incredible first impression. Then, it develops interesting wood notes, further complexified by patchouli... the result is a slight roasted-coffee effect. This is excellent, really different stuff. It is only available at Guerlain boutiques and it a limited edition sort of thing, so good luck finding it!

    16 October, 2007

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Basile Uomo (original) by Basile

    I am filing this review under the ‘original’ category. My recently purchased bottle looks exactly like the one in the basenotes photo except for having white rather than gold print. The scent is definitely 1980’s. Whatever this is, I don’t think this is a new version (i.e., a changed formulation). Basile Uomo is an 80’s scent with an herbal flare. I disagree with the review below – it is both big and long-lasting. The citrus-basil opening is assertive and refreshing. The floral mid softens the deal somewhat. Juniper and pine give a crisp, almost minty edge. Basile is a bigger and less vegetal version of Diptyque’s basil green Virgilio (or Virgilio is a modern, minimalist interpretation of this sort of scent). I enjoy Basile. The usual caution for 80’s scents applies here: don’t over-apply! I really like the basil and pine notes which keep popping up, they are a refreshing aspect to an otherwise big and rich chypre. They make it interesting and distinctive. Basile has a dry-down a bit like Equipage or Chevalier D’Orsay (beautiful leather/amber/musk).

    16 October, 2007

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Chèvrefeuille Original by Creed

    Creed Chevrefeuille has a sharp, interesting opening. The honeysuckle is rich, floral, somewhat smoky and tangy. I don’t detect mint as a separate element, but there is a sharp freshness that is probably from that. It takes a while for the herbs to develop, but when they do they are very good... basil and perhaps tarragon. I appreciate the ‘pastoral’ qualities they give. The honeysuckle floral continues, and as is usual for a Creed, gets a bit rich. For me, this is not a must-have scent, but I can appreciate it.

    16 October, 2007

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Citrus Bigarrade by Creed

    Creed Citrus Bigarrade is a beautiful orange scent! It is full-blooded and invigorating. With no florals, and its sharply bold opening it is certainly very suitable for men. It has some interesting green leaf notes. There is a lovely dry-down. The citrus remains, but a green and woody element emerges that is enchanting, and a bit creamy. hirsch is probably right, this is santal (aka sandalwood). While the scent is short-lived this is typical of good quality (non-synthetic) citrus scents.

    16 October, 2007

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Claiborne for Men by Liz Claiborne

    Claiborne for Men is an interesting scent, and for the most part I like it. G23riel and foetidus are right, it is fresh and green and bold. There is a honeydew melon sort of opening, quickly followed by crisp green and citrus notes. Basil-like aspects emerge, although basil is not listed as an ingredient. Juniper and carnation give a brisk zip to the proceedings. It settles into a rather unique soapy-detergent profile that is assertive but to my mind pleasing. This quality is probably aided and abetted by the ozone. To my mind this is a more successful fresh/ozone fragrance than Caswell-Massey’s Greenbriar. There is a little bit of a woody cedar note in the dry-down but that is not a big deal.

    16 October, 2007

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Grafton by Truefitt & Hill

    Warm and spicy, Grafton has a fresh herbaceous opening combined with a spicy floral heart, leading onto a rich, woody, amber background with a hint of leather.” (Truefitt&Hill site)
    I like Grafton. It has a zesty green-citrus opening, something I prize. Galbanum may account for the spicy green, leafy and dusky initial notes. Herbs of some sort (basil, tarragon...) also lend a welcome greenness. The lavender is blended into the herbal aspect. Cedar may be lending a fresh note, and that segues into lovely wood tones which include sandalwood. There is a hint of patchouli which is dry, restrained and effective. Grafton is elegant, refreshing, classy, excellent and worth seeking out. Since T&H are shaving specialists, there are other products including a nice aftershave balm. An observation: there is no oakmoss listed as an ingredient, so I wonder if this can be called a fougere. I think it is more properly termed a woody green scent.

    16 October, 2007

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Lime, Basil & Mandarin by Jo Malone

    Top: lime, mandarin, bergamot
    Mid: basil, white thyme, lilac, iris
    Base: patchouli, vetiver, costus
    Lime, Basil & Mandarine by Jo Malone is excellent! I disagree with the negative reviews. This is a lovely scent. It has a very good lime-green citrus opening which persists. The herbal-basil notes are likewise exceptional. The thyme which can be overdone (see Baïme for an example) is just right here. People complain about the basil notes, but LB&M is a pussycat. Try Basile Uomo or Virgilio for a heavy-duty hit of basil! The florals are muted and gently soften the citrus and herbs, rather than stand out in their own right. Up to now it is a light summery splash and is quite refreshing. Then it develops a delightful light grassy tone, due to the vetiver and a pinch of patchouli. This phase lasts for hours on my skin and I enjoy it. Don’t be put off by the nay-sayers. If you like these ingredients, try it and see for yourself!

    16 October, 2007

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Mouchoir de Monsieur by Guerlain

    Head notes: lavender, bergamot, verbena
    Heart notes: rose, jasmine, neroli
    Base notes: fern harmony, patchouli, vanilla, iris
    “Refined, elegant, subtle”... from the Guerlain site
    Mouchoir de Monsieur is indeed an old style of scent... the scents and scentsibility of a bygone era. The opening is so brief that I missed it. The heart notes are quite floral and powdery, and I don’t particularly care for this phase. However, when the florals burn off, MdM dries down to an interesting, dry fern and patchouli accord. The patchouli here has a light wood tone, and the fern is very attractive. The shift between heart and base is so different that I sprayed it again... it is two different scents. Interesting! There is very light vanilla in the dry-down. Normally I don’t like that but it is restrained here and it works.

    16 October, 2007

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Sir Irisch Moos by Sir

    They’ll never tame an irish moss man... Masculine, with a fresh moss character” product blurb.
    Sir Irisch Moos is a delightful old-school cedar chypre. Despite its name, it doesn’t have much of a mossy aspect (at least not in my bottle, which is vintage). Cedar gives a fresh vibe and at times the tang of pencil shavings. Coriander adds woody spice. This is brisk, invigorating, fresh, and enjoyable. It is a simple scent, not big or heavy. It dries down close to the skin. I like it.

    16 October, 2007

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Trophée Lancôme by Lancôme

    Green. Powerful. Attractive. Trophée Lancôme is a very good chypre: spicy-green, grassy and mossy. It is big but pleasant, not heavy or synthetic. It conveys a powerful, masculine aura. The opening has lots of lemon and little lavender. Grassy tones dominate the midpoint. It then develops a light musk tone which compliments the mix and brings things to a satisfactory conclusion. This sort of scent is classy and should come back in style. Out of production but it is worth seeking out. If you can get it at a good price, try it.

    16 October, 2007

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Montana pour Homme by Montana

    Montana pour Homme has a zippy green-citrus opening that is very perky and fresh. The artemsia gives this a green sparkle. The middle is good, a bit floral but not too sweet. I can smell a bit of powdery iris but it is not heavy. In fact, I’d say this not really powdery scent but rather a soapy green scent. The wood tones are very light. The drydown is light too, pleasant musk and amber. This is a good daytime scent. It is a little bit like Guerlain’s Mouchoir de Monsieur, but more modern in style. Also a bit like Liz Claiborne for Men but more subtle. I like it.

    16 October, 2007

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    B.Green by Brooksfield

    I’m happy to be the first to review b. green by Brooksfield. It is a very classy, refreshing scent; quite successful and enjoyable. It has a nice opening which is crisp, fresh and green. Lots of lemon-lime citrus here. Mild woody spices (cardamom and nutmeg) and little hints of pine freshness keep things perky and interesting. There is a good clean middle of light florals and cedar wood. The base has rich elements but is not heavy. The amber and musk are well-modulated and do not develop a powdery aspect. The leather and tobacco are restrained accents. The final dry-down is also good. It gets a bit bigger as the musk and fig leaves have their last statement, but the impression still is light and breezy. I like this and will wear it often. It is not easy to find, but it is worth the effort. The bottle design is interesting in that there is a green “straw” that surrounds the atomizer siphon which has the words: Piacere/Fun, Liberta/Freedom, Benessere/Balance. A good motto!

    16 October, 2007

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    parfums*PARFUMS Series 3 Incense: Ouarzazate by Comme des Garçons

    Fragrance notes: incense, pepper, nutmeg, clary sage, wenge, musk, vanilla, labdanum absolute, kashmir wood.
    Ouarzazate (pronounced war-za-zat) has one of the best openings I’ve ever smelled. It is green, strikingly resinous, dry, sparkling, spicy and invigorating. There is a sweet balsamic tang, and the incense character of this scent remains throughout its development. Clary sage gives a green dusky-herbal note that is very complex and attractive. Ouarzazate is very classy, slightly reserved in character, dry, elegant, green/woody... my idea of a perfect scent. I’d say it ranks with Bois D’Encens by Armani as a great resinous incense fragrance: in some ways it is more interesting due to its herbal notes, and it is better value. It is my favorite of the Comme des Garçons incense line.

    16 October, 2007

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Basile Uomo (new) by Basile

    See my review of Basile Uomo original, I don't think my recent bottle differs from the original formulation.

    16 October, 2007

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Rêverie au Jardin by Tauer

    Fragrance notes: Lavender (high altitude mountain lavender from France, galbanum, fir balm, bergamot, rose absolute, frankincense, ambrette seeds, orris, vetiver, tonka beans, oakmoss, vanilla, ambergris, sandalwood and cedar wood.
    It is interesting that so far it is men who have reviewed this scent. I can’t speak for the others, but my initial interest in Reverie au Jardin ran along the following lines. “Lavender, fir/pine, frankincense, moss, wood tones... sounds promising.” I hoped that the florals, vanilla and amber would be in the background. Alas, everything I wanted is absent and everything else is too prominent for my taste. Yes, this is sweet and powdery from beginning to end. The green note was far too short. Equally brief was the incense. Powdery florals (especially the orris/iris) kept popping up and gave a note that I find annoying when it is as prominent as it is here. Then tonka/vanilla loomed into view, another irritating scent when it dominates. Wash-off time. In my opinion this is not a unisex scent, it is feminine. Not my style.

    16 October, 2007

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Lacoste Elegance by Lacoste

    I’m neutral on Lacoste Elegance. It has interesting ingredients, some of which are reasonably well done. In the final analysis, it is too sweet for me, and not distinct or interesting enough to make me want to seek it out. Its best parts are the opening and middle. The opening is aromatic in a fresh way due to the mint and juniper. The citrus (tangerine) is very muted and not effective. The middle has good woody spices (nutmeg and cardamom) and is enjoyable. The drydown is sweet, ambery and musky and rather boring. There is a slight gourmand element but I can’t say the chocolate is noticeable. To me it is more like vanilla, which is due to the amber. This is a competent scent, with smoothly attractive features. It is not my style however, so the thumb goes sideways.

    16 October, 2007

    scentsitivity's avatar

    United States United States

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    Royal Scottish Lavender by Creed

    Creed’s Royal Scottish Lavender is a nice composition. Subtle citrus smoothens the opening, as does vanilla the base. The lavender is pronounced, but not sharp or overbearing. I find lavender to have calming effect and RSL is no exception here. A scent I wear not to project, but to focus the mind and look within.

    16 October, 2007

    fusion's avatar

    United States United States

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    Fierce for Men by Abercrombie & Fitch

    This is a nice scent simple not out of this world but nice longevity is horrible only good for a few hrs if your lucky but the women do like it and that’s always nice I would use this for dinner and a movie with my lady

    16 October, 2007 (Last Edited: 06 November, 2007)

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