This opening blast is quite something! Burning smoky rubber, leather, hints of latex, some benzoin with resinous birchtar - a delightful blend of rough smoky leather. At that stage the amber is more like a backdrop on this dramatic olfactory canvas.
The core principle underlying the development of the drydown is: lose the rough edges gradually, introduce a floral component, mainly iris, and see the amber increase in intensity and its presence over time gradually. Over time this turns into a warm, glowing and smooth amber, which dominates the base and peters out gradually.
I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and an impressive ten hours of longevity on my skin.
The first stage is very convincing, albeit of less high quality than, for instance, Knize Ten, and with a somwhat contrived leather impression, but nonetheless well crafted. The later stages with the amber in the centre of their development are also lovely, but a bit more linear. Overall a rather nice product. 3.5/5.
I don't know what I can add here that has not already been covered by the ambassador of this fragrance Monsieur Montana.
It is a great masculine fragrance. As already pointed out by DuNezDeBuzier, this is similar to Havana in structure. I find some Jacomo de Jacomo in it too.
Patch, spices and manliness in a bottle that will not break the bank.
From start to finish I love this scent (my wife on the other hand HATES IT). Any who some scents I wear for my personal enjoyment. As for the scent... it is a stunner. Strong at the start with gourmandish spices and a sweet honey like tobacco... the middle is also an amazing mix of vanilla and tobacco with a hint of tonka and cocoa to my nose. The dry down of woods with lingering vanilla and tobacco is simply amazing. A scent that will remain in my collection for as long as it's made (even if the price is slightly prohibitive). Enjoy!
It's an oud perfume. Nothing groundbreaking if I'm honest, nothing too offensive either. In the dry down it turns from a strong oud to more of a woody number. I don't really notice the flower elements, there is a sweet element to it. I think its easily worn by both men and women, but it's not the most remarkable or interesting ouds there. It's nicely blended though
Longevity is surprising short, after 4 hours it became much harder to detect. I used about 0.5 ml so I'm surprised it goes so quickly.
The opening notes, a brightish rose with ylang-ylang, davana and a hesperidic touch, are pleasant and well balanced with their sweetness that is not too heavy. The drydown adds whiffs of incense, tarragon and a slightly herbal cistus undertone.
The base adds a bit of a somewhat nondescript fruitiness, vetiver, but is also characterised by a very soft myrrhe compenent that is intertwined with a fairy generic soft patchouli.
I get moderate sillage, strong projection and eleven hours of longevity on my skin.
Thr first half of this autumnal creation, good especially for evenings, is dense and intensive, whilst the later parts are a touch less vivid and duller. Overall a nice creation and not without interesting ideas, and performing extremely well. 3.5/5.
Not a fragrance but a product of pure distillation. Another dark-smoky potion from this specialized "Middle Eastern perfumery brand" as product of pure distillations of woody resins formed as a result of natural infections affecting several species of Aquilaria (agarwood) evergreen trees. Along the time these infections naturally cause the trees to produce a really viscous resin as a by-product due to attack this infection. Oudh is the "outcome" of this "ancient" woody resins' distillation-process. Even in this case this arcane potion is mouldy as a dark cave studded inside by extinguished bonfires, mossy moulds, stale humidity and burnt odorous woody-rubbery resins. Just for the straightforward lovers of this "hard extreme" genre. A "fumidus" hyper dry woody potion (yet vaguely petroleous) a la Montale Dark Aoud (being the latter on the contrary anyway synthetic) but natural, far more realistic, stark and liturgically ritual. A stinky bitter-licoricey supremely woody "odor". A medieval kind of ghostly "miasma" heralding images of fortified citadels, steel swords, steamy castles, battlefields, warriors barbarians, bronze armatures and knights-errant.
Versace Pour Homme Dylan Blue is a spicy/woody/aquatic based on a central accord of piquant spices, citrus, violet, sharp salty woods and mineral ozonics. The first blast is like a photocopy of the "sadly departed" Byblos Uomo (this is the good news, many notes in common indeed: musk, bergamot, lavender, ambrox, violet, spices, patchouli, aromatic herbs, mineral-ozonic notes, sharp woods etc. I see in this phase also a tad of Chopard Heaven, Paco Rabanne Invictus, Bond N. 9 I Love NY for Him and Chanel Bleu) but after five minutes the mainstream stark salty-gassy woodiness (which is taking the world by storm by now) starts screaming out peppery-dusty (even more salty and gassy, like a crazy schizophrenic oceanic kind of Bvlgari Man Extreme ideally joined to a whichever "crunchy" Givenchy Gentlemen Only or Dior Sauvage) with my huge bored disappointment. Nothing more to add. Not for me.
This vanilla-tonka dyad is the golden thread and core of this composition, enriched ny undertones if mandarine and orange flower that balance out the vanilla sweetness. Interestingly, whilst clearly sweet, this one in never sticky or cloying on my skin; it is endowed with a touch of slimness and elegance.
This opening mix sheds the citrus is the drydown, in order to replace it with a smooth and gentle frankincense, with a veil of a mildly honeyed cinnamon veil draped over it. With time the tonka - admixed with whiffs of the incense - wins out and becomes more dominant until the end.
The sillage is moderate, the projection is excellent and the longevity is a stupendous thirteen hours on my skin.
This scent for warmer winter days is smooth and comforting whilst never being heavy. During the first half is remains a bit too restrained and too thin, but with times it becomes more intensive. Whilst not ultra-creative, it is solidly made, some ingredients are of high quality, and the overall impression is on the positive side - but with a wafer-thin margin. 3.25/5.
A hersperidic undertone is combined with layers of cumin, coriander, cardamom, cistus and cumin - the result is crisp, mineralic composition, with an peppery incense, not too ceremonial and with a touch of smokiness, but overall a bright, tart and acrylic mix. Creative and convincing.
The drydown, however, only brings out small and nuanced developments, like floral tones, touches of pencil shavings and, later on, a slant of the incense towards the less peppery and towards a myrrh impression.
I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a brilliant twelve hours of longevity on my skin.
This scent for warmer autumn days is original and well crafted. Whilst being somewhat underwhelming and a tad too synthetic in the later stages, and being a touch linear in spite of its formidable complexity, this creation incorporates original touches and ideas. 3.25/5.
If you’ve read any of my other reviews, you’re probably aware that I favor the weird and the challenging. While this isn’t the place to justify my rationale, I will say that I’m not into weird for weird’s sake; I come at perfume from two angles: the functional and the experiential. While the former is the norm (a scent you wear in a traditional manner), the latter (a scent you study and explore as a discrete aesthetic) is usually where I turn for innovation or drama. Innovation, by nature, should be discomforting in some way as it’s about change, but innovation must also be coherent and make sense. Aftelier’s recent Memento Mori falls squarely into this category and excels at the effect it produces.
I’ve never had the opportunity to try any of Mandy Aftel’s perfumes mainly due to availability and cost, but I was able to get my nose on a fellow perfume writer’s sample. A tiny dab to the back of my hand kept me engrossed for hours, and while sniffing other scents throughout the night, I kept returning to the spot where I applied it — the mark of an intriguing composition. Be warned: this is a difficult scent, but it’s also quite heartrending. It opens with visceral ripe cheese note, breaking away about twenty minutes later into a fleshy mix of clean sweat, salty butter, and semi-sweet decomposition. Throughout, there’s a steady cardboard-like impression that sometimes stems from iris as well as an incidental floral note to keep things from going too dark. The scent’s as mesmerizing as it is disturbing. It’s not just carnal; it’s animalic but in an atavistic, primitive manner. While it pushes the envelope in ways you can’t really prepare yourself for, every aspect of it feels calculated, intentional, and curiously comforting. It’s long lasting and hums with low sillage, but scents like this really aren’t about traditional metrics. Memento Mori is compulsory for anyone interested in what scents can accomplish beyond the realm of perfume niceties. A great introduction to a line I’ve been curious to check out for some time, and this is one I’ll be seeking out in some capacity or another to smell again as I can’t get it out of my mind.
I smell the black pepper immediately and this rolls into a very dark woods merging of perpper/woods that reminds me of the smell of wenge wood or some other dark hardwood that has an oily peat moss dark seriousness. There is softness to follow the woods (tonka, musk) but the character of the fragrance is all black pepper and serious darkwood or pepperwood. The fragrance is a little shallow with only a few things to dwell upon in its development so to get more out of the experience I tried an extra spray or two and it works very well. Smells great! Black Pepper by Comme des Garcons is as fine a fragrance to fill the edgeless ovoidal CDG bottle design since Wonderwood.
14th January, 2017 (last edited: 15th January, 2017)
A great fragrance from the house of Molyneux. It reminds me of Aramis 900. There is no rose but I still get the rose accord - perhaps the mixture of cardamom and peach are playing a trick and reminding me of lactonic rose.
I don't find it vile of offensive like the other reviewers. Perhaps it went through a bad reformulation like the Captain.
I think one should try the vintage version.
The warm ambery incense with the woodsy cedary undertone define the core character of this creation.
This develops in quite a gourmand-style fragrance. Down the track a soft white musk is added, and from then on the character changes very little, until it peters out gradually towards the end.
I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.
A soft, warm and comforting wintery scent, which is very pleasing but a touch overly synthetic. Additionally, it is a bit too generic and predictable. Not bad, though. 2.75/5.
Words of warning – this is a heavy fragrance and a heavy finger on the trigger could be lethal. Even in small amounts, I find TO hard to tolerate. A thick, dense, animalic fog of Oud (similar to Dior’s Leather Oud) punches your nose. While I’m game for many animalic fragrances, I just can’t get past the opening. The tobacco shortly joins the Oud and the aroma grows tamer but not much. Other than those two accords, I can’t smell much else. It seems to me that they mixed the two biggest slugs they could find of Oud and Tobacco together and called it a day. I’m a big fan of Tommy’s Tobacco Vanille which is much more than the sum of its parts but Tobacco Oud just smells lazy and unforgiving in the worst possible way.
Beautiful composition from the house of Dior, I can't spray enough of it hoping it will last longer. While suffering in performance somewhat, it is safe to reapply as often as you want, this one has me in the shower in the summer twice just to get that fresh scent again and in the evening I can just reapply because I'm not sweating. The Bergamot and Grapefruit are amazing together and the musk is a welcomed friend. Take a decant with you while out at night you'll want another blast.
There are a few differences from Original Santel by Creed, the opening notes in Individuel are a little harsher not as crisp, and the packaging is not as pretty as OS but everything else is. I have tested and also have samples of OS and they are the same frag. I paid $18, $140 less than OS for the same scent minus a sharper opening and a better made box, you take your pick
This is an inaccurate posting. Eau de Lanvin is not a scent in and of itself, but a new type of concentration, equivalent to today's edp.
As such, it is a very concentrated and long-lasting concentration, putting today's edps to shame.
It is so close to pure parfum in concentration, sillage and longevity, only the hours involved before it fades (6 to 8) identifies it from the pure parfum (12-24).
For the price point and quality this is an EASY blind buy for sure. Well blended from start to finish with decent longevity and average projection. Nice peppery nutmeg start and skin scent dry down of woods and some sweetness. For less than 25 dollars for a 100 ml I can't see why this wouldn't be a clear winner. Enjoy!
With Vintage Lanvins, Extrait is generally your best bet.
Eau Prextexte is a delicate floral-leather.
Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot and narcissus
Heart notes: hay, rose, carnation, hawthorn, opoponax and iris
Base notes: leather, castoreum, patchouli, rosewood, ambergris, sandalwood, tonka, vetiver, civet, oakmoss
The ambergris in the base has aged so smooth to the point it makes it hard to delineate the notes. The leather quickly shows herself in my bottle and its one of the softest best done leathers Ive run accross. Dont let the list of the base notes fool you. They behave very well and expertly blended.
This is not powerhouse, but a throw backs to a toilette and lightness of fragrance. If you want a more pronounced experience, get the extrait.
Awesome fragrance! Just doesn't project or last very well unless you're in the perfect conditions. First spray isn't anything special to me. Smells like synthetic oranges. But the dry down is amazing. Maybe even my favorite. I wear this to work, and I work a km underground where you sweat all day. Sometimez at the end of a 12 hour day I can smell it on my skin. The dry down smells soo good it puts me in a good mood. Will buy again when I run out.
One of my favorite Leather, rum, & guaiac woods to date. Mature and intense, Niche quality
Reminds me of smelling tobacco leaves as they dry. Used to live in a town that had a tobacco company and every year around the same time, there would be this smell wafting through the area where the company would be drying out the tobacco leaves. So it's not a pipe tobacco, cigarette or smoke smell, it's more green and leafy mixed with a warm-tonka/vanilla sweetness. Very unique. I get excellent projection and longevity from The Dreamer.
Just a stunning incense, especially in cold weather. I finished up my sample today, and this is at the top of the wishlist.
I only buy what I love, not like, not that's ok, not because someone else likes. Another master piece of Bergamot, coffee, chocolate, & leather. Man I love this
A boring saffron and wood. Why did Jo even bother. It has got nothing going for it. Aramis Calligraphy is better and cheaper.
Or you can go for Odin Lacha in similar price range- great longevity and projection and scent is 100 times better,
Gourmand, rich, and beautiful, this cheapy, you won't regret, if your lady loves vanilla and coffee, she won't let go of you. Make sure it's cold outside and ensure you watch the spray you don't need much it's a beast.
Givenchy Pi uuummmmm, what can I say this was one of my first frags ever bought for myself, this blood orange, vanilla, benzoin beast this beautiful beautiful beast. Great and best in cooler weather. Unfortunately I don't get a chance to wear my Pi often because I live in FL, I only get about 2 months of wear but anytime I get a chance I reach for it. This is a cool weather 5 out of 5
Dear Oak Moss,
Without you, I feel like an impostor. You're sorely missed.
- Chypre 21
Herbal and minty in the beginning, natural-smelling damp and rooty Haitian vetiver the rest of the way. It's like one of those songs with a promisingly catchy opening hook but falls into a repetitive loop as it moves along. If mentholated vetiver scent is your thing, be sure to check this Heeley out. Personally I found it crude and a little dull.
Nude Sitting on a Divan by Amedeo Modigliani 1917