Fragrance Reviews from October 2007

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    Barbier des Isles by Comptoir Sud Pacifique

    Bone dry vetiver with hints of verdant island fields. Crisp and sharp and impeccable -- definitely what I'd consider a "tailored" frag. I think of some stiff upper lippish Brit getting an old fashioned shave in Bermuda when I put this one on. (GREAT frag for warm climes, btw -- refreshing w/o being cloying -- it's ANYTHING but cloying.)

    It's vetiver sans the dirtiness (Route du Vetiver), the tobacco (Guerlain's old formulation) the strong use of wood with vetiver (Molinard I) and the bubbly citrus (Guerlain's new formulation). Thumbs up, yes, but with the proviso that this stuff is very dry and VERY vetiver.

    12 October, 2007

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    Blu pour Homme by Bulgari

    Crisp ginger and musk. Nice, but OH so boring.

    Give me Blu Notte with its powdery notes any day of the week. Better yet, give me Fred Hayman's Indigo for a fraction of the price of even Notte.

    12 October, 2007

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    Molinard Homme I by Molinard

    Syrup? I don't get "sweet" at all. This is a lovely vetiver frag with tons of wood and mint -- very refreshing, very Provencal. I can't believe it doesn't get more play here on the board.

    12 October, 2007

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    Sables by Annick Goutal

    Once in a while I get a craving for chicken gizzards. It may come in the middle of the night; it may come in the middle of a meeting with a client. Don't ask me why, but it just comes upon me like some kind of secular Damascus Road experience, and I just CRAVE greasy, gristly, Southern fried gizzards. Then, the rest of the year, I go without and even turn my nose up at the sight of these little gnarled monstrosities.

    AG's Sables is (gee, you guessed it) no different for me. Once in a blue moon, I just BOLT for Sables, then I go around in a frenzy all afternoon sniffing my forearms and wondering why I doused myself in this bitter herbal mess. Nevertheless, my curiosity aside, I love Sables, if only for that one day. The rest of the time, I stick it back until the craving comes again, and then I know that I must feed the craving else go mad.

    This is some twisted stuff, Sables -- and I love it and hate it and puzzle over it all at once, all the time.

    12 October, 2007

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    Séxual pour Homme by Michel Germain

    I can't remember the last time I got this many female compliments -- this stuff MUST have pheromones in it!

    Goes on smelling very like Eternity (NOT my favorite!), but dries down to a sexy, musky base that's almost transparent.

    Incredible longevity and monster sillage -- do NOT over-apply this Canadian edt.

    12 October, 2007

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    Touch for Men by Burberry

    One of my newest mainstream favorites. To be honest, I'd been expecting more mass-produced sh*t from Burberry when I first sampled this one. (London and Brit are just "OK" in my book -- good enough, but by no means great. I'm old school -- I love the long discontinued original, something which I can just barely detect traces of in London. But I digress.)

    Touch is very warm and musky -- a great violet note, too, without overpowering (as Grey Flannel, Halston for Women, and other violet frags can do all too easily).

    I get tons of compliments from members of both sexes when I wear this one. I swapped Lightninrod for a big bottle a few weeks back, and I've not regretted it since.

    12 October, 2007

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    Witness by Jacques Bogart

    Along with Baie de Genievre, Witness has one of the most masterful uses of cinnamon out there. And it's not the cheap, mass produced Cinnabon variety, either -- this is spicy, warm cassia for very little money. A bit of a patchouli monster, granted, but that's QUITE all right with me. I've gone through four 1 oz. bottles of this stuff in one year alone, and will keep buying it so long as I can keep getting it for the small price I have to pay for this idiotically discontinued little treasure.

    12 October, 2007

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    Yang by Jacques Fath

    Pluran's right -- Tea for Two it ain't. Still, you can't beat it for the price, either. I wear Yang about once every two weeks, and its musky tea scent stays with me an incredible length of time. Yang always garners me tons of compliments as well. Oh, and its bottle is remarkably cool, too! FAR more wearable than Green Water, btw. I like GW well enough, true, but good for everyday wear? Not so much.

    12 October, 2007

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    Muschio / Musk by Santa Maria Novella

    The only pure musk frag in my collection. An almost edible affair, this -- very sweet at first, very creamy, very seductive.

    Timeless; unisex; damn near perfect.

    12 October, 2007

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    Chergui by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    If Musc Ravageur is the seduction, then Chergui is the conquest.

    Fireplace conquest, though, not savage back alley stuff. This is romance in a bottle -- sweet, syrupy vanilla in which to douse your lover and eat him/her up.

    Perfect juice for rainy days, honeymoons and other events that call for crackling flames, glassfuls of Bollinger, and lots of Luther Vandross in the background.

    Romance in a bottle.

    12 October, 2007

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    Mûre et Musc Extrême by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Who would ever have thought that I'd choose a blackberry and musk combo? I never would have thought it, not in a million years.

    Warm and sweet w/o being girly; extremely pleasant drydown; top-notch longevity and very good sillage.

    One of my favorite L'Artisans.

    12 October, 2007

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    12 by Jean Couturier

    Macho? Yes. Dirty, dirty disco boy -- big Eighties powerhouse who's forgotten that disco is dead. I've smelled better; I've smelled worse. A good choice if you like big bad bruisers who speak loudly and come cheap.

    12 October, 2007

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    Eau Torride by Givenchy

    Bright, crisp floral. Pleasant but not outstanding -- Givenchy's done far better work. A "sporty, unisex" kind of frag -- so perhaps I'm prejudiced here. (Not exactly my favorite family of frag. I'm an Eighties wood/spice/patchouli powerhouse kind of guy in most things.) This one's great for those who love florals, yes, but I'd recommend Insense over this for any guy who wants a Givenchy floral that's bright and clear and extremely wearable.

    12 October, 2007

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    Liquid Karl by Lagerfeld

    Yummy bread pudding in a bottle, all buttery and dripping with a zillion calories. Syrupy, warm, spicy, almost freakishly gourmand. (I wanted to eat my own freakin' arm.)

    I'm not a huge fan of the gourmand clan, though, so it's off to the chopping block with this bad boy. Bye bye, bread pudding!

    12 October, 2007

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    Patchouli Leaves / Feuilles de Patchouli by Ava Luxe

    Earthy? Yes. Dirty, though? No.

    Very dry and woody patchouli -- do I detect a little bit of myrrh here, too? Not your hippie uncle's patchouli, no, but also not the sweet, dandified patchouli that is L'Artisan's Patchouli Patch, either, nor the fleeting booziness of Etro's Patchouly.

    Thumbs up in spite of the dryness -- some will like this very much. I want something a little dirtier, myself, but will enjoy this bottle until it's gone.

    12 October, 2007

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    Kretek by Ava Luxe

    Give this one a chance before you reject it as being all clove with a touch of tobacco -- it's not. The drydown takes a while, though. Expect dry but warm wood in the drydown, as well as hints of tobacco peeking out at the oddest times.

    The clove notes will bowl you over at first, though, so be prepared to smell like clove oil for the first ten minutes or so.

    I've found Kretek SUPERB for layering, btw, esp. with warm, musky frags.

    12 October, 2007

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    Fig & Vetiver by Anthousa

    Now I am a HUGE (if inexperienced) fig fan and LUVLUVLUV LaP Prmiere Figuier - but I love this too - it's a creamier figue with the most subtle greeniness and has pretty good sillage and longevity.

    12 October, 2007

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    DKNY Delicious Night by Donna Karan

    A grown up version of Karan's Delicious line. As the name implies, it's richer and deeper than the others. The fruit sits in the background, which I prefer. Patchouli is very evident in this, so if you don't care for that note you probably won't like it. An all around nice fragrance, but I'm not bewitched by it so probably will not purchase.

    12 October, 2007

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    Tom Ford for Men by Tom Ford

    Having just purchased Black Orchid and falling in love with it, I was so looking forward to sampling his offering for men. I was disappointed; it smells more mainstream and ordinary than the edgy, unusual Black Orchid. Surprised me, because I thought Ford would be even more daring with his men's creation. Perhaps I would have liked it more had I never smelled Black Orchid - she's a tough act to follow! I'll give it another whirl sometime, but for now I feel sort of blase about it.

    12 October, 2007

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    Féminité du Bois by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    I've been looking for a fragrance to replace my, sadly discontinued, favourite, Guerlain "Aroma Allegoria - Exultant" and I've found it in "Feminite du Bois". Surely this is the perfect scent, spicy, woody, sweet exotic, yet not overpowering.It smells of cloves, incense and wax with a warm woody undertone. My new favourite. What a shame that it has been discontinued too!!!!

    12 October, 2007

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    Opium by Yves Saint Laurent

    I normally like fresh fruity florals so this one is a nightmare to me, but on a much higher scale than the typical heedy scents. It smells very 'old lady' in a sinister, unkempt/decomposing sort of way. If one could imagine what an unshowered Joan Crawford and Night of the Living Dead would smell like together or maybe Norman Bates mother - this is it.

    12 October, 2007

    Andrewthecologneguy's avatar

    Nigeria Nigeria

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    Azzaro Now Men by Azzaro

    It was a dilemma for me that lasted about an hour. NOW 'instantly' triggered a fragrance memory from about 7-8 years ago but I couldn't remember what fragrance it was.
    Then it hit me...CASUAL FRIDAY by Escada. Think LE MALE without the man musk and excess coconut. And I think there is some licorice in there...
    Anyway, it is a little less 'solid' as CASUAL FRIDAY, but seeing as it is hard to find, I will buy NOW and be glad AZZARO reintroduced a good frag.

    12 October, 2007

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    Tokyo by Kenzo

    TOKYO...excellent name, excellent frag house...frag not so great. Why? it is a 'redo' or 'this is what Azzaro Visit would smell like if Kenzo did it'.

    I love Azzaro Visit...spicy icy, but very one dimensional, then a lot of nutmeg in the dry down. If you like the basic concept of Visit, but can't get down with the 'too much nutmeg' deal, most def get yourself a bottle of Tokyo. It starts out fresh and clean but with a tinge of spice (ginger) then adds depth by evolving into a dull but strong wholesomeness, dimension and sheer luxury shows up with the cedar contrasting with green tea and the now muted citrus...all before the nutmeg comes in.

    It's like Mr. Kenzo woke up in the morning and walked thru the city of Tokyo taking in the sites and sounds, smells and eats and by the end of the day his shirt smells like 'Tokyo'.

    Not awesome enough to substitute Visit, unless you can't stand visit, but outstanding enough to have it alongside Visit.

    12 October, 2007

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    Nigeria Nigeria

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    Hugo XY by Hugo Boss

    This is def good stuff. Reminded me of freshness that lasts and doesn't get stale (think minty toothpaste with a little spice a la Carolina herrera). One of my favorite fragrances is Gap blue No. 655; XY is def related to this fragrance, except it is not as one dimensional and lasts a good while (12+ hrs on my skin).
    HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.

    12 October, 2007

    Mad4WDW's avatar

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    Suivez-Moi by Fragonard

    This is going to be a very short review. This smells exactly like JPG Le Male. Not similar, the same. Which is not a bad thing. I like this a lot.

    12 October, 2007

    archaic's avatar

    Malaysia Malaysia

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    Blue Jeans by Versace

    Something wrong with this scent. A very strange sweet sharp notes dominates this Blue Jeans. Not my cup of tea, though. Sorry. Advantage:very affordable and strong smell. Disadvantages: Weird sweet smell, smells too synthetic?

    12 October, 2007

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    Malaysia Malaysia

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    Envy for Men by Gucci

    An iconic fragrance. Love it. Great for that romantic night as this fragrance is very woody, masculine and strong. It opens up with fresh gingery smell and then it turns to some woody greenish scent (like CK Eternity). However, it does not last very long (the fragrance: Gucci Envy). Wanna a long lasting, a bit feminine type, go for Burberry Brit for man. Gucci Envy for Man: My tool for taming the wild femme fatale.

    12 October, 2007

    archaic's avatar

    Malaysia Malaysia

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    Happy for Men by Clinique

    A great citrus/sporty fragrance. Not as sharp as CK One Summer's top notes. Clinique Happy for Men has that clean simple scent. I would recommend this for that hot summer, disco clubbing occasion. The disadvantages: not long lasting, too simple scent(has that cheap perfume impression). Advantages: Not a sharp type, suitable for that summer, sporty occasion. Not sure whether this suits office occasion though.

    12 October, 2007

    archaic's avatar

    Malaysia Malaysia

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    Of a Man by Body Shop

    A great attempt from BodyShop. I just love it. Very fresh, citrusy clean and simple type. The citrus is not sharp at all. Great. However, due to its simplicity, it gives an impression of a cheap type perfume. Great for sporty, office occasion. Very long lasting and value for money. I love it. I just wish it could give a more complex citrus-green scent.

    12 October, 2007

    archaic's avatar

    Malaysia Malaysia

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    Brit for Men by Burberry

    The top notes reminds me of Gucci Envy for Men. However, it is not too strong as Envy. A powdery/creamy feels appear after the top notes settled down. Then, the rose notes appears. The rose scent makes Brit a bit too feminine for my taste. The rose scent lingers very looooooooong. I would recommend this for that weekend daytime or that dinner with someone special. Not a very masculine fragrance. Want masculine type? Go for M7.

    12 October, 2007

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