Perfume Reviews

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Total Reviews: 134205

Nightingale by Zoologist Perfumes

Nightingale is my first experience with the magnificent "by flora/fauna-inspired" canadian alchemic niche brand of Zoologist. Their collection is aimed to capture the idiosyncrasies of the animal kingdom, transforming them into scents that are somewhat unusual and original. The main goal is supposed to be the one to connect "by perfumes" the wearer to great delights of the natural world. My first impression testing the juice on skin is immediately kind of wowing me; whatta resinous impact, what a fantastic indolic approach, what a visceral fruity-floral musky assault!! First of all, this is a super spicy-resinous creation (spicy frankincense, oudh, ambergris, fir resins, labdanum etc), as much resinous to conjure me scents a la Cerchi Nell'Acqua Usmar Venezia or several of the most straightforward frankincense-based accords (though in this case frankincense is well calibrated and just a tiny brick of a more complex high construction). There is a "nowadays classic" central accord of rose/saffron/oudh but in this case fruity-floral intense elements and rich muskiness provide a new deeper vegetal outcome. The juice expresses a "japanese-in-inspiration" sort spring-time botanic atmosphere (the perfumer Tomoo Inaba is surely inspired by her japanese origin and the "naturalistic past" in deep contact to nature). Nightingale is a fruity-floral chypre opening with an assault of rosey saffron, plums and violet under my profane south-european nose. The rosey vibe is by soon super spicy, creamy and yummy (sort of balmy, almost saffrony-syrupy) and its royal neo-victorian neutral/detergent/botanic-like vibe is counteracted by a more pungent accord of plums and violet (kind of berrish and candied). The overall atmosphere is surely musky, hyper musky, silvan and vegetal. A lemony note (on the side of woods) reinforces in the meanwhile the fruity-floral "plummine's intensity" and the general "perfumed botanic intensity" of the opera. The visceral floral syrup (really saffrony-rosey, plummy and resinous), as conjoined to carnal resins and deep musk, provides a quite sensual general effect while patchouli enhances structure and charisma. A fragrance by a great structure, gorgeousness and complexity claiming to capture the Japanese spring's onset with an obsessive dark floral pungency and a general sense of soapy-assertive oriental rapture. Excellent.
25th March, 2017

Bergamote / Divine Bergamote by The Different Company

Well its bergamot alright, the question is whether it's a nicer smell than good quality bergamot oil itself. I'm not presently convinced of that but I'm reserving judgement.
24th March, 2017

Charmes et Feuilles by The Different Company

The strong aroma of surgical spirit (methyl salicylate, wintergreen) and cough mixture here leads me to suppose it may be suitable for members of the nursing profession. Or indeed for doctors (such as myself). Would I wear it on my rounds? Well yes, I might. It has an appealing freshness and a certain originality about it. One spritz three times a day should keep me on top form.
24th March, 2017
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Ruh by Pekji

Stardate 20170324:

Take note perfumers - This is how a saffron should be done.
It is the main player with rose and spice supporting it.
Unlike other reviewers, I dont get much coffee here.
This is a great saffron scent.

24th March, 2017

Une Nuit Magnétique by The Different Company

Unfortunately this type of note is one I'm familiar with from a particular mass market deodorant and toiletry line, so that rather spoils it for me. And also sows doubts about how different some of the Different Company's perfumes really are.
24th March, 2017

Limon de Cordoza by The Different Company

A very familiar theme, which will no doubt appeal to some people. - Eau fraiche, Eau Sauvage with a strong emphasis on the patchouli.
24th March, 2017

Tokyo Bloom by The Different Company

With its intriguing name and green colour, I was keen to sample this fragrance, but when I finally got to do so it was something of a disappointment. Not a green note in sight, my main impression was the overdosed musk. And something verging towards musk ketone, not one of my favourites. Supposedly it evokes cherry tree blossoms in springtime Japan, and if so I don't think I'll bother going there.
24th March, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Armani Privé Encens Satin by Giorgio Armani

The incense is clearly the dominant impression at the opening - restrainedly spicy, with only a touch of an balsamic undertone, not really ceremonial and quite well done. After a while a synthetic fuitiness creeps in, which at times takes on a mildly boozy character.

In the drydown a slightly sweetish amber evolves that appears to have a touch if tonka attached to it. Towards the later stages the incense retreats and the ambery fruitiness prevails until the end.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

Not a particularly creative scent for wintery days, it is a lighter and not too intensive incense composition - incense lite so to speak. The fruitiness in not particularly nice, but not really unpleasant either. Overall just deserving a - just - positive score. 3/5.
24th March, 2017

Nuda by Nasomatto

Jasmine soliflore, as others have said. Sweet, deep, indolic, animalic. I'm not sure that I get the spearmint I've seen mentioned, but there is a cool, mentholic note behind the huge white floral opening. When I take a deep whiff of my hand, the jasmine settles to leave a definite fecal aftertaste in the back of my throat; it gives amazing depth. The opening is neither pretty nor polite, but it is very striking indeed. It's when the heart of the fragrance rises - the animalic aspect quietens and the jasmine softens - that Nuda becomes truly beautiful.
If I were feeling very bold and had the necessary attitude, this stuff would smell incredible billowing up from a white-shirted cleavage. On a less self-possessed day, I can imagine feeling like I'd been suffocated with a bag of over-ripe jasmines and shat on by a cat.
Inventive and special stuff, but not for the faint-hearted. It's a real shame that the EDP is no longer available, but even a 10ml decant would last a while - this stuff is potent and definitely not for everyday wear.
23rd March, 2017 (last edited: 24th March, 2017)

Mon Guerlain by Guerlain

It's really not worth all the hoopla surrounding the launch. It's a run-of-the-mill sugary fruity-floral, adding nothing new to an already crowded segment of the market. Not vile, just dull.
23rd March, 2017

Quelques Notes d'Amour l'Eau de Toilette by Yves Rocher

Sultry and musky a la Versace Eros Pour Femme, just a tad less fruity, pungent, radiant and musky. While Versace pushes the accelerator over magnolia, freesia, orange blossoms and ozonic molecules Yves Rocher Quelques Notes d'Amour is more properly rosey, light, delicate and balmy-ambery (soapy). Both the creations are "airy", fruity (red fruits from the forest - cassis, raspberry, bilberry etc), salty and exude a sort of sultry-"sweated" synth sensual "sweet-salty" (musky/ambery) presence which is finally warm, pretty feminine and slightly dissonant. A decent easy feminine eau.
23rd March, 2017

Eau Mage by Diptyque

Stardate 20170323:

A very nice frag that is destroyed by Ambroxan overload. The Ambrox is cloying and tenacious.
23rd March, 2017

Opôné by Diptyque

Stardate 20170323:

A nice rose wood perfume. Nothing special but nicely done.
23rd March, 2017
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rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

L'Arte di Gucci by Gucci

The top notes as marvellous: rose, muguet, jasmine and - just the right dose - aldehydes emanate to create a floral basket of delicious beauty. Just a touch boozy, the rose is medium-dark, rich and intensive, counterbalanced beautifully by the white florals. A fine web of coriander with whiffs of a soft patchouli add just a hint of spice.

In the drydown the white florals, emboldened by additional lashings of carnation and geranium, gorgeous! A floral fest extraordinaire!

The base takes a turn to the darker, with the soft patchouli more evident and a convincing dark musk too. More amazing is the underlying well-balanced top-notch oakmoss, which adds just the right amount of an harsher edge towards the end, with a touch of salty and earthy vetiver roots mixing with the faecaloid-mossy backgound seamlessly.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a splendid longevity of twelve hours on my skin.

This is a nighttime spring creation of great character, luscious with seductive darkness under a floral aura of great beauty. The quality of the natural ingredients is absolutely sublime, the nuances are breathtaking at times and the whole is one of the masterpieces this house has produced in its somewhat patchy olfactory history over time. For once the name is apt - this is classic olfactory art; a Turner for the nose 4/5.
23rd March, 2017

Cellini by Fabergé

"In to the fougere's wild". Faberge Cellini for men is a quite refined (but really "strong") freshly aromatic barber-shop classic fougere exuding a fascinating fresh aura a la Aramis Tuscany Man (a lot), Drakkar Noir, Cuba Black men by Cuba Paris or (mostly) Azzaro Pour Homme. I detect this mastering initial soapy-anisic accord of aromatic herbs, fresh lavender and citrus, immediately supported by leather/patchouli (with a quite soapy-suedish leather's effect), by a refined sharp floral core (mostly carnation under my profane nose), overall flowing down towards a mossy-ambery-leathery base (dandy, classy, "tailored", leathery, soapy, aromatic, dry). Anisic lavender, musks, synth ambergris and soapy leather are dominant throughout while the florals are restrained, angular and "accessorial". I detect an undeniable spicy presence (and some misty earthiness) but the juice is mostly an aromatic-soapy (mossy-ambery-leathery) fougere with a radiant spark of gentlemanly dandy class. Supremely masculine. Durable on my bastard skin.
P.S: dry down is darker (vaguely smoky, austere, quite soapy-mossy - but all at once angular - and assertive a la Ysl vintage Rive Gauche).
22nd March, 2017 (last edited: 23rd March, 2017)

Scent No. 1 - Bergamot Sage by Cognoscenti

Bergamot Sage opens with very delicate and quite beautiful sparkling pink grapefruit, bergamot, slight fig and light woods and light musk as a base. The first few sniffs were very nice, then its gone. This fragrance does not have enough contrasts within it for the the delicate and pretty notes to stand up against. I tried it a couple of times and it always disappears quickly after a very nice scented opening. Turn up the contrast and brightness controls please. Sorry it doesn't work for me.
22nd March, 2017

Scent No. 8 - Aldehydic Oakmoss by Cognoscenti

Aldehydic Oakmoss is a middle toned scent that has a continuous hollow toned metallic vegetal green aroma that occasionally slows down to a warm toasty cocoa but then returns to the metallic green. This ringing and changing vibrancy is from the nature of aldehydes upon scent which creates a revolving and changing tonal circle of green tartness and then toasty tonka cocoa tones that returns back to each other. This creates kind of a changeling leather aroma. It is an elliptical frequency of changing aroma that is pleasant but very difficult to pin down because there is no start and stop points. The inability to identify specific notes makes the fragrance hard to remember. It is nice to wear and smell, but soon it is "what was that smell again?" I dunno. This fragrance has an invisibility cloak quality due to its generic tonal range and changeability. It is pleasant but hard to identify/or remember. I would rate it 6/10.
22nd March, 2017

Estivalia by Antonio Puig

More of an Eau de Cologne on my male skin. Citrus top which shortlived. Light floral with a Vetiver finish.
Uncomplicated, fresh, not overly Feminine aura. Nice for the hot, humid, summers. A cut bove the regular body wash scents.
22nd March, 2017

Scent No. 30 - Hay Incense by Cognoscenti

Cognesenti created a fragrance called Hay Incense. The initial opening aroma is hay and this warm lazy straw aroma is surrounded by a variety of almost hay like elements that causes the hay scent to move back and forth and side to side giving it depth and mass and an incense of sorts of hay aroma. Birch leaf, Immortelle, benzoin, oak, leather, labdanum - these are all very low toned almost sweet dry hay type smells. The leather is noticeable in the base too. I would change the name to Hay Leather to more accurately match the scent with the name. I like the end result of this fragrance but I think it's lack of opening notes keeps its low profile, rhetorical incense, almost invisible presence from the outset straight through to base notes. It is all same - all the way through. This fragrance would make a good base accord on which to add totally new top notes and heart notes. There is potential here. I would rate this one 7 of 10.
22nd March, 2017

Scent No. 19 - Warm Carrot by Cognoscenti

Warm Carrot is a very stable warmed smiling skin fragrance made of multi faceted pleasant to smell ingredients. This scent is a mood upflifter but is slow and steady in action. The amber accord here is a base uplifted with Ylang Ylang which can and does also have some slight narcotic indolic muskiness. Benzoin and vanilla also add sunshine the mix. Vetiver keeps it grounded and carrot seed oil gives it a slight rooty personality, a nod to the garden, that is far less of an influence than the name implies - very slight. I doubt I would pick out the carrot oil ingredient if it were not posted in the fragrance name. The overall result is the impression of sun smacked, ozone warmed bare skin which has been working earnestly and with good intentions about the garden. That smell - it is nice!
22nd March, 2017

Scent No. 16 - Tomato Leather by Cognoscenti

Tomato Leather opens with tomato leaf green tartness and finishes with a very dry powdery and leafy leather accord. The tension and story line of this fragrance is all about how to bridge the gap from tart green tomato leaf to dry dusty leather. It sort of works as the leather remains with some dry tobacco leaf support and the green tartness also stays around too. You end up with Tomato Leather. I am reminded of Neil Morris Leather Garden and Memo Irish Leather as two very green leather scents that also struggle to bridge this gap of green plants and aged leather. This gets a begrudging thumbs up from me as it almost doesn't work, but ultimately it is what it is, and THAT is interesting.
22nd March, 2017

Scent No. 32 - Blue Oud by Cognoscenti

Blue Oud opens with cool lively blue cypress airiness that leads down a hidden pathway into a shaded mossy woodland clearing revealing the hollow aroma of vetiver grass and ancient decaying Aquilaria tree mold which is the central note of Blue Oud - agarwood. This is a direct hit of the type of cold oud backed by vetiver for a classic dry oud aroma. The blue cypress opening goes away in a short pause and all that's left is this pure and simple oud wood that is similar to MFK Velvet Oud Mood and TF Oud Wood, only this is lighter, simpler but equally as impressive. This is a nice summer oud - not pushy or heavy in any way and cooling and relaxing in temperament. This is an impressive fragrance from a mostly overlooked artisanal perfume house - Cognescenti!
22nd March, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Fleur09 by Maria Christofilis

White florals.
White florals.
White florals!
These three lines describe the core character of this composition. Orange blossom mainly, touches of muguet, and a thin veil of a delicate thin muslin layer of jasmin underneath it all.

Whiffs of an orangey aroma, and hints of a gentle tuberose - no waxy ir woody undertones here - add playful elements in the drydown, but the white florals continue to reign supreme throughout.

Whilst the inherent sweetness of this creation is usually never going beyond the sweetness expected from white flowers in full bloom, in the base just a touch of tonka is added. This additional sweet component is quite subtle on my skin and blends in rather innocuously, as does a pinch of bezoin, which, like table salt, enhances the mix unobtrusively in its judicious application.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and nine hours of longevity on my skin.

This pleasant spring scent is the epitome of a white floral scent. Not supremely brilliant and at times a tad linear, it is well crafted and of solid quality. 3.25/5.
22nd March, 2017

Incense Oud by Nicolaï

Structure of this has a Nicolai Signature common to all that I have nosed. A centre of gravity low within the Heart Notes. Light touch of Oud is surrounded by a thin blanket of Patch and Cedary woodiness.
With this scent Ambrette is used similar to Chanel's No. 18. It draws my mind to the distance with a whisper of Rose vague.
The Base feels light. The weight of Amber and Styrax is like one stroke of a Watercolour. The Omani is a sliver of light singular. I fail to identify the Castoreum.
All in all a very pleasant scent fitting for the time.
Hope to nose Oud Sublime Extrait sometime in the future.
21st March, 2017

Azzaro pour Homme Summer by Azzaro

Stardate 20170321:

A citrusy flanker of the original. Lighter and fresher. They have toned down barbershopiness and amped up freshness to be more palatable to millennials.
Not as good as original but a worthy flanker.
21st March, 2017

Gatsby by Pacoma

Stardate 20170321:

A great amber and honey fragrance with woodsy (including SW) base. A masculine of the bygone era.
A lot like vintage Zino by Davidoff. So much that having both might be redundant.



21st March, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Accenti by Gucci

A bright mix of a fruity-orangey aroma with a core of aldehydes, touches of wormwood and untertones of forest berries - delightful and uplifting are the words that come to mind when enjoying these top notes.

Soon, very soon, an apricot/peachy tone combines with jasmine and muguet; but on my skin this never turns into a floral-dominated composition, as the fruity side plays an equally important part in the overall scheme.

In the base tonka and a soft patchouli are added, but until the end the brightness prevails to some extent and never leaves.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin.

This spring scent has a lovely opening phase that is the most convincing stage of its development; towards the base is looses intensity and the bright vividness of its components. Whilst not necessary the most exciting fragrance released as the result of Tom Ford's reign at Gucci, it is certainly one of the good ones. 3.25/5.
21st March, 2017

Eau Imaginaire : Île Pourpre by Les Liquides Imaginaires

Il Poupre is a mildly sweet, medium toned woods fragrance that has bits of fig, davana, iris, shiso, ginger, angelica with an ambroxan and cashmeran base to add warm cuddliness to the final impression. There is a large variety of various fragrant bits which form a complex but very generic smelling scent that lacks specific character, but is never offensive or unpleasant. This reminds me of the aroma of a freshly polished wooden cabinet that is pleasant but also not too,special. Il Poupre is a "jack of all trades and master of none" kind of generic unspecific woods tonal fragrance. Nice name, great bottle and a richly colored dark ruby purple scent that I really wish I could rave about, but, it doesn't really happen for me.
20th March, 2017 (last edited: 21st March, 2017)
Oviatt Show all reviews
United States

Leather Oud by Floris

Leather Oud is a perfect gateway oud, in my opinion—it has all of the secure, comforting aspects of a traditional fragrance—in this case a beautiful, classic leather note as well as other mainstays of masculine perfumery, such as vetiver and carnation—and uses it as the launch pad for an oud that is pure and deep.  The first thing you notice is the expensive leather—not too long from being in the tannery and workroom and then on to the deep, oily darkness of the Oud, underscored by the vetiver, amber and patchouli. The floral notes of carnation and geranium are so subtle that they play a true supporting role; as the name asserts, this is all about leather and oud.
Gentlemanly enough to stroll down Jermyn Street, Leather Oud also has the dark and oily glow, edged with a dirty humanity that oud is so famous for. This boy may be wearing a bespoke suit and polished bench-made shoes, but there is some funk going on here. This is for the enfant terrible of St. James, the punk rocker of Savile Row who goes commando in his custom tailored suit.  And is it just for the boys?  I think so—it has too much of a well-bred testosterone note to be anything other than masculine.  That said, on a woman with a taste for pinstripes this could be head turning.
20th March, 2017

212 Sexy by Carolina Herrera

Blood-orange's review is spot on.

Cotton candy might be a horror for many of us to behold on the note pyramid, but here the warm musk and spices work their magic to make this not only sexy, but sophisticated and modern.

Like my beloved Giorgio Red, this one REALLY depends on your skin. I have worn this for years, off and on since it came out. I find it suitable for any occasion (not just dates), and all but the hottest, most humid weather, where it does become cloying.
20th March, 2017
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