Latest Reviews

As Sawira by Penhaligon's

As Sawira is a beautiful oriental saffron oud rose perfume that is quite ethereal but also ornate in its presentation. Think of all the rose saffron / oud / davana fragrances you've tried in the past few years and this is that and more. It has a healthy dose of JASMINE, carnation, cardamom for a floral flourish, prominent in the first few hours, that is a celebration in a bottle. I'm thinking Bollywood dancing, Indian house music, weddings etc. I'm thinking saffron robes and burning incense sticks. As Sawira has a remarkable dry sweet wood base that I could swear is a Mysore sandalwood that you might have found 30 years ago, but not today. The dry floral oud sandalwood type base becomes more prominent until it is the central feature of a skin scent left after the burning off of the rose oud and saffron smoke is dusted on the skin. A nice combination of sandalwood, gaiac wood, patchouli, cedar, musk, and vanilla makes up the dry remnants of this hopeful scent. I am happy to see a house with the tradition of Penhaligon's launch a fragrance with this type of legendary patina. I am tempted to purchase a bottle if only to have such a treasure in my collection. As Sawira is a fierce feminine (masculine) fragrance, Or an enlightened masculine (feminine) scent. You can see I like it very much.
27th May, 2015
drseid Show all reviews
United States

Rose Privée by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Rose Privee opens with a natural smelling slightly tart hybrid citrus accord that resembles a cross between grapefruit and peach. Moving to the early heart the slightly tart citrus mix joins modestly powdery, airy lifelike rose as co-stars with a honey pollen-like lilac and subtle carnation supporting floral duo. During the late dry-down the rose turns a bit more powdery but keeps the powder still to relatively low levels as dark supporting lightly spiced hay-like coumarin in the base joins the rose remnants through the finish. Projection is excellent, as is longevity at around 12 hours on skin.

When I heard Rose Privee was composed by the pairing of super-star "old-hand" nose Betrand Duchaufour and up and coming star Stephanie Bakouche (Invasion Barbare) my interest was piqued to find out what the old and new "A List" pairing could jointly produce. On the surface, going with a rose composition appears a pretty safe bet, as it is tough to screw up and has been done hundreds of times over. That said, this is not just an average rose you will find elsewhere. Instead, the pair has added a very interesting and distinctive citrus accord that permeates the rose early and hangs around for most of the composition's development. I still am not entirely sure what is driving the tart citrus, but it comes off as a cross between grapefruit and peach. What I *can* say is I like the accord a lot, and it pairs perfectly with the staring airy rose, creating a distinctive smell that really is sublime. The dynamic duo also add in a carnation and lilac supporting floral accord to the mix in the composition's mid-section that seems to pair with the rose citrus like they were made to go together. The only slight disappointment is in the late dry-down as the rose turns a bit more powdery, joining some deep hay-like coumarin in the base that doesn't quite mesh as well as the rest, but this is only in relative terms and absolutely nothing to worry about. As to similar smelling compositions nothing comes immediately to mind, but stylistically, Duchaufour's absolutely superb Rose Cut by Ann Gerard from last year kind of fits the bill. That said, Rose Cut smelled quite different using peony and incense instead of the tart citrus used here. Rose Privee also would probably be stereotypically described as more "feminine" by most due to the rose's airy nature. At the end of the day, "masculine" and "feminine" are just words, but all I know is Rose Privee smells really, really good and would on anyone. The bottom line is the $180 per 100ml bottle Rose Privee utilizes the talents of two superb noses and delivers the goods big time, earning an "excellent" 4 star out of 5 rating and a strong recommendation to rose lovers in particular.
27th May, 2015

Triomphe by Rancé 1795

Soon at the opening it seems immediately to deal with an ideal combination of 7 de Loewe, Terre d'Hermes (I get indeed cedary woodiness, earthiness, spicy orange and pepper), Le Male (a barely peeping out soapy/balmy synthetic muskiness), Lancetti IL (wet dusty amber) and Body Kouros, such like Triomphe ideally (probably also pratically) being a wonderfully synthetic and modern "follower" of the previously quoted earlier market sharks. Actually, since the year of launch is just 2009, this Rance's juice (despite pleasant) ends finally missing the "crisma" of originality and any real spark of innovation. I ask to myself....where is the problem? I don't see the problem, the huge universe is various, a perfumer must not be morally forced to fill his mouth up with the pretentious word of "Arte", lately an empty overused word here on Basenotes (the point is: you pretend to be an artist, I declare to do commercial yet "runned" stuffs, assume to be better than me but is just a vacuous supposition). Let's go back to the juice. Liquid Iso E driven frankincense, pepper, a touch of "bitter licorice-like" effect, mandarine, dusty-talky amber and unmistakable cedarwood unfold by soon their "swarming" vibe in this phase. In a few time the piquancy gets the stage becoming dominant, bitter/mild (better citric/mild) and mossy (with hints of synthetic ambergris, calone and galaxolide). I feel a lot the influence from mandarine, pepper and violet leaves which provide a sort of "bitter/red berrish" intense (almost juicy/candied) feel, overall surrounded by piquancy and sweet balmy synthetic-soapy muskiness. Well, along the dry down powdery woods (moderately sugary-talky) and musky-balmy vanilla jump definitely over the stage and the aroma turns out typically gymnic, still peppery, salty-sweet, calonic and synthetically "testosteronical", just another market attacker (really close to Le Beau Male in this phase) which is something legal and understandable, something far more acceptable (and probably honest) than all this "rhetoric of conceptual art" that is lately submerging Basenotes with its cliché of mediocrity. Madium rating under my prophane (and proudly unpretentious) nose.
26th May, 2015

Oxygen [8O] by Nu_Be

I'm pretty tired of talking about "art director", in the end we're just talking about a project entrusted to a Nose.

Knowing the art director of Frank Sinatra (Voyle Gilmore, for a period) is not interesting, because Frank was the singer, not even knowing what Pope (Giulio II) paid Raffaello is interesting, because Raffaello was the painter.
If we are talking about art, the art comes from artistic performance and curator is nothing. While marketing, yes, it is totally relevant to the curator.

Here, on Besenotes I said: “A Perfumer (as an artist) has the rule to dominate the raw materials, creating a performance that brings his work in contact with the nature, as a new and original creative act.”

So, to interpret the oxygen is therefore an artistic and original challenge, it is an intelligent proposal from an art director to an artist, as if someone say: "Frank, you'd be able to sing a sickly sweet Christmas song and make it a sexy masterpiece?"

Antoine Lie is definitely a talented Nose and in his compositional simplicity he always leaves a defined mark in his works. And he wins, again! He wins everytime they do not use his name, but his talent!

Mood Oxygen:
after a sweltering note of plastic bag, as if you are breathing your own breath, the scent opens onto a grassy horizon. Now you can breathe!
26th May, 2015
Emoe Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Apple Brandy by By Kilian

I also have a sample, and not really blown away with this.

i had great expectations for this, i love boozy scents, and anything brandy sounds like a hit, but this is a little flat.

first spray and it doesnt have the same hit like many other kilians, and is definently much less potent, but perhaps thats their intention.

i too, get a kind of cider, or apple sauce aroma, close to the skin, and perhaps a hint of brandy but not shouting brandy brandy brandy.

as the drydown continues, it turns to a more burned wood kinda smell, with a tiny touch of incense, and a little more alcoholic tinge, but honestly, it isnt what i would describe as a pleasant mix. its a bit muddled.

Sadly, i have to say Meh.
26th May, 2015

La Vierge de Fer by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

"Let there be light! And darkness no more. He who wishes does not have a black soul! “I will come as a thief …” said Christ; certainly in silence and probably, for him, wearing shoes. To deserve his title, the Thief must act under the wide-open eye of the absent owners. In this case, it is not that tenuous eye with which Cain stares without regret, but another, which in some way will make an accomplice of Abel. If the fetishes, idols and charms of the Museum of Man, in Paris, had not met the 20th century, everyone would have missed that incredible mockery of Eros which The Young Ladies of Avignon certainly is. “The Negros had understood that everything which surrounds us is our enemy”, the wizard Picasso said to his paintbrush. Who, if not one of them, decided on life, by death, would dare, to unclench the teeth of this sex of the world: fear. Since it is the fruit of our entrails, it must be elevated. For that, not fearing incest, we will embrace it. In this way, she will give birth to our most beautiful monsters. That is how, a little rusty by dint of doubts, my steps have rejoined La vierge de fer (the Iron Maiden); that lily amongst the thorns."

Stylized, conceptual. The official description made me smile as much as the verbiage of Womanity.

It opens cool, airy and gassy. Even with this air and radiance it is somber and metallic. Whatever thinned out fruit and floral are in La Vierge de Fer, it is floating in a film of steel spray. The first time I tried it, I thought it light. The second time I happened to be sampling an edc, Voyage de Hermes, on the other wrist. It immediatetely put La Vierge's cool metallic character into highlight.

I don't think this fragrance is a mistake. I like the attempt to put the fruity-floral theme into metal. But for me, it is always about how it makes me feel. La Vierge is a cool grey day at the end of autumn, with the cold, quiet pause before first snow hanging in the air. It reminds me of the time  a travelling carnival was in town, staying too late in the year. From far away I could smell snow cones and cotton candy coming across the field, mixed with the mineral cold soil around me. That artificial fruitiness mixed with the sober reality of brown frozen dirt gave me such a sense of the clash of two realities. La Vierge makes me feel that way. The somber wash over the fruits and floral is a mockery. You can smell them, but can't truly have their bright beauty. It is a disquieting feeling for me, so I don't think I can wear it, though I think it's interesting and subtle.

It is long-lasting and has a moderate sillage. 
26th May, 2015
Emoe Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Straight to Heaven : Splash of Lemon by By Kilian

I already own the Straight to heaven white cristal, so this was purchased predominantly for my wife, but i love it too.

its got the same ending as StH, but very lemonny at the beginning, which does take a little while to dry down, ending in a very similar aroma to the standard one.
however, its is a little less sugary, and is much lighter, probably better for females or summer/hotter climates.

still a good fragrance, but probably not worth it if you already have StH
26th May, 2015
Emoe Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Laylati by Sospiro

Utter beast! this is an amazing woody oudy frag with teeth!
i thought Nasomatto black afgano and Acqua di parma Oud concentree had some legs, but this is even more killer! the scent is different, bit more vanille.
the bottle is strange with velvet covering, but i buy it for the juice, not the bottle.
As for longevity, this only became a skin scent after about 8-9 hours. impressive fragrance!
26th May, 2015

Prima Rugiada by Profumi del Forte

A new Art Director has called on Batman to fix perfume change, convincing skeptics about the drydown power of the water to those who still believe that the earth is round.

“Batman, I need a new perfume, one really new, add a little of ingredients for a great drydown, please!”

“Hey man! I am a part time superhero, I'm not a creative man! Choose one of these ten-bat formulas or tell me what to do!”

“I’d like to make a sweet one fragrance, a poor one but very rich of raw materials, a normal perfume but a precious one, a perfume with rose, jasmine, violet, ketch up, Vikings, gladiators, princesses as Sissi, Casablanca, amber but with the smell of dew!”

“Deu! Deu! I am dark, I'm a man of the night, I know what is due and what is to be done, because I am a bat-hero! I feed myself of Justice!”

“I’m sorry, I'm Italian and I speak a bad English!”

“You are bat-forgiven!”

“I mean rain, dew as little rain!”

“I do not have any rain in my bat-molecules! Are you crazy, man? I’m a big dark one!”

“But at least you know what I mean? The smell of the water...”

“Look man! Here they are, ten discounted bat-formulas! Put them together and get drunk!”

“But… Water!”

And Batman runs away… walking!
26th May, 2015

I by Puredistance

Probably the most decent offering from Puredistance I’ve ever tried. Not because of the smell per se, since actually others smell better; but because for God’s sake, at least this is not something ripping off cheaper fragrances, and it’s not something annoyingly trendy. It’s different, it’s imperfect, and this is a win with this fashionisto brand and its mute, pedantic “luxury” conformism. This “I” is a not-that-groundbreaking yet quite fascinating sort of green-floral scent with a very peculiar composition; it smells at once metallic and earthy, “baroque” and futuristic, oily and greenish-crunchy, with a really admirable and enigmatic interplay of nuances and notes. I get damp flowers reminding of classic floral chypres mixed with something like coriander, light spices, crisp woods and something herbal-fruity. It feels a bit like a hybrid between a really classic, pleasantly outdated floral fragrance and a more recent mainstream woody-spicy scent for men, both connected together by a fruity-herbal bridge smelling almost rotting but “sunny” at the same time (and ok, depressingly synthetic like the cheapest cassis base on the market). All refreshed by a whiff of something aquatic. Pretty linear, it just becomes a bit more resinous-balsamic before vanishing off - incredibly quickly. Complex but playful, a bit screechy perhaps and not entirely compelling for me, but nice enough and creative. It has a sort of “hippie” vibe: I hate hippies really bad, but it’s nice within the context of this brand. Obviously this isn’t remotely enough to justify its demented price, but Puredistance prices are so surreal they can’t really be considered as a judgement factor, so...

25th May, 2015

Eternity for Men by Calvin Klein

Desperately bad on every level. Basically a musky citrus-lavender fragrance smelling like a fizzy warm burp after drinking cheap Limoncello. Deadly everlasting persistence. Gross and discomforting.

25th May, 2015

Lôvann by Santi Burgas

Lovann is the typical "supporting" sugary-synthetic (liquid vanillin, citronellol-galaxolide, simil spicy orange, "apothecary-like" almondy coconut) basic accord for an "external" (I mean coming from diverse pieces of the Loant Collection) addition of top and central notes. This unstructured sugary-medicinal juice (not my favorite for sure) shows us that each piece of the Loant Collection is exclusively due for a combined "implementation" with the further "members" of the "family" since smelling, taken singularly, quite incomplete and faintly structured. Far more "complete" and structured are indeed the Burgas's creations standing outside the Loant collection (I mean for instance Loence or Egnaro) which I recommend. So, in conclusion, the Loant Collection is a risky experiment which anyway could be intriguing for the lovers of the olfactory "assembly". Lovann starts soon as a sort of Southern Comfort's olfactory equivalent, I mean something "undrinkable" (hyper sweet) taken singularly and more interesting if used as cocktail's basic ingredient. This opening is sparkling, liquid and sugary-pharmaceutical (with an almost freshly liquorous chemical accord of synthetic hyper sweet vanilla, clear honey and "laundry" coconut milk). Going on with the run the aroma becomes slightly drier and dense (less "fluidy", more sticky, musky and milky), less sweet (but still a lot sweet) and vaguely fruity-exotic. As soon as the fruitiness jumps up the aroma takes turning out darker, more linear, honeyed, spicy and rounded. In this phase we pratically get inside the gourmandish territories since the aroma (going beyond its initial laundry-medicinal fluidy stage) works finally in to a more specifically balmy-sugary way (too pale to work on its own in a satisfactory way). Not for me, I'm sorry.
25th May, 2015
Emoe Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Tom Ford Noir Extreme by Tom Ford

im not a lover of Tom ford by any means, infact only two (both discontinued) have interested me!

but this i tried today, and was pleasantly surprised by it. has a nice spicy start, mixed in with the freshness, and that dries down well, leaving spicy woody hints with vanilla which is what i do enjoy in a frag.

for me, way way better than Noir, certainly better made, and more Noir than Noir....if that makes sense.

worth a sample.
25th May, 2015
drseid Show all reviews
United States

Lôvann by Santi Burgas

Lovann goes on with sugary sweet cotton candy-like vanilla. Moving to the early heart the cotton candy-like hyper sweet vanilla continues as sole star adding in an underlying slight buttery coconut milk facet as support. As the progression continues through the composition's middle, the super-sweet aspect of the vanilla slowly recedes, as the vanilla adds an extremely slight dirty gauze-like undertone to the now moderately sweet coconut milk infused vanilla. During the late dry-down the vanilla finally recedes to a supporting role as it joins a slightly tart vague synthetic smelling fruity accord through the finish. Projection is average to above average and longevity excellent at well over 12 hours on skin.

With Lovann we finally come to the end of my individual sampling journey of the Santi Burgas Loant collection, and the journey ends with a relative whimper. Lovann starts off as a highly simplistic and disappointing sugary sweet vanilla gourmand concoction that will scare away most who dislike sweet compositions within seconds of application, looking for any means possible to scrub the tenacious juice off. Luckily, things do get better as time passes, with the sweetness going from intolerable to just moderately annoying. There is an odd, difficult to place underlying accord that adds what can best be described as a hint of dirtiness to the vanilla, but my guess is this is actually a different facet of vanilla entirely, featuring its more raw unrefined natural bean aspect versus the artificial cotton candy-like processed open. The mild tart fruity dry-down is probably the best part of the composition, but it takes hours to get to, and I suspect most will have "left the building" well before reaching it. In the end, maybe gourmand fans will enjoy Lovann more than I, but to me it is no better than hundreds of other gourmand duds on the market. The bottom line is the 89 Euro per 50ml bottle Lovann is a highly uninteresting vanilla gourmand with a super-sweet open that will scare away the sweetness averse, earning it a "below average" 2 to 2.5 stars out of 5 and a modest avoid recommendation to all but sugary sweet gourmand lovers.
25th May, 2015

Liquo by Angela Ciampagna

During Esxence, Angela "had the courage" to come to my stand for knowing me! She was very nice, and frankly she said me: "Everyone told me that you're a bad person! But maybe they do not know your perfumes!"
Angela is one of the few recent appearances (in the world of niche) who has everything to create great perfume: professionalism, experience, creativity and raw materials! Is she an artist? Probably she is on the right wave, she just has to figure out what she wants!
This scent is a pop experience! It reminds me some steampunk works by Hayao Miyazaki, like "Howl's moving castle".
A very long sacred incense profaned by esoteric potions of fenugreek.
Technically there is a good deal of tonka and ultrasonic vetiver whispering the excitement of freedom, and the depth of drunkenness.

A hug, Angela.
25th May, 2015

Rosa Nigra by Unum

In Italy there was a time when the business people who wanted to diversify their business created restaurants or chains of pizza-points! Now is the time of the niche perfumery. This is the time of “art directors”.

If you want to get Theologicae aspirationes ad Unum et Trinum, here you have your mood!
The concept is very simple: a bit 'of religion family friendly, a bit' of fashionable and Gothic mysticism, a sprinkling of Eastern Zen, and a pathetic fairy tale!

Now you have your international brand!

The misfortune of this capable designer (who creates clothing for the Pope! Wow!) I think it was the Elvis Presley’s death. Elvis would have been an ideal customer, and perhaps he would give some rock inspirations to this guy full of ecclesiastical thoughts!

This perfume has the same logic composition of Ecstasy (2013) by Tiziana Terenzi with the same design of sandalwood, amber (?) and tonka bean, also in it there is a building of flowers that you can call as you like: iris, or rose and violet, or Sean Connery!

In 1327, Brother William of Baskerville is sent to investigate a wealthy Italian abbey whose monks are suspected of heresy. When his mission is overshadowed by seven bizarre deaths patterned on the book of Revelation, Brother William turns detective, following the trail of a conspiracy that brings him face-to-face with a pizzaman!
This is an Italian history of niche perfumery, welcome my fiends in Pizzaland!
25th May, 2015

Onda Parfum Extrait by Vero Profumo

Today I was walking in the park with Ogma, my dog! A man of seventy years old was painting the landscape sitting near a tree. It was not exactly a beautiful painting, but I was excited to understand that even at that age a person wants to get involved with something!

About Vero, I can say that I respect very much a person who has begun to make perfumes at his age! Wow! The licensee of this brand seems to be of Campomarzio70 of Rome, even though the brand is a Swiss one.
But to talk about Vero’s perfume I need to understand her ideas about perfumery. As she is considered an artist, it would very important for me to investigate perfumery’s bloggers opinions because contemporary bloggers play an active role in the process of constructing meaning about works of perfumery and art. Some artists often say that the viewer contributes to or even completes the artwork by contributing his or her personal reflections, experiences, opinions, and interpretations.
But in this case I found a beautiful interview by Alfarom, in which she is talking about perfumery and about her point of view too.

She said: “…the market is full of new products and is increasing daily. We learn of strange "shocking" perfume concepts with blood, semen, urine and other body fluids. After a while I just stopped thinking about it and do what’s right for me.”

MMM! She is talking about Sécrétions Magnifiques (2006) where Antoine Lie tried to give an olfactory idea of blood and sperm. This is an artistic idea! She is talking about Peety by O’driù in which one can add ten drops of his/her own pee! And also this is an artistic idea!
So, what is right for her?

“My goal is to make a good product, and not to be a famous perfumer. And my goal is to create the perfume as a “Gesamtkunstwerk”, with the right bottle, the appropriate packaging and at the heart an original emotionally touching scent.”

Following her speech, I think about the packaging of her perfumes: a standard old style bottle in a box type for watches! No, just a moment!

Gesamtkunstwerk (translated as: total work of art) is a term that was used for the first time in 1827 by the writer and philosopher German KFE Trahndorff and then used, starting from 1849, also by Richard Wagner, who included it in his essay Art and Revolution (Die Kunst und die revolution).
The ideal of Gesamtkunstwerk is enhanced by visual artists of the Vienna Secession including Gustav Klimt who design, sculpt, paint and decorate in view of an idealized fusion of the various arts. And He was even famous!
At this point, I wonder if people understand the meaning of their statements!

I focus on the scent! I quote an Italian blogger Jicky2:
“These perfumes are so memorable that we had forgotten that they existed in the closet ...
Really, the niche children love her, they make a lot of pictures with the old woman, who looks old... But, who cares, a nice review of 4 perfumes is everywhere.”

Wath I think about this perfume?
I think this perfume borders with an insecticide! Perhaps that smell served to her to tell the poetry of marine pollution, in a total vision of art. Or maybe it's the smell of tiny flowers caught in a romantic flowered field in Switzerland before the arrival of those of Ricola’s candy.. When they arrived, there was not even a flower, and even grass! They could not make their CHRÜTERCHRAFT candy! And now a lot of people have hoarseness and cough!
Why not try to paint?
24th May, 2015 (last edited: 25th May, 2015)

Come La Luna by Bois 1920

Hyper classic (neo classic) spicy "forbidding" composition with a classically chypre aura not so far from historical pieces of "Baroque" from Aramis (JHL, Aramis, Aramis 900), Guerlain (Derby, Mitsouko), Ysl (Opium), Estee Lauder (Youth Dew, Azuree Pure), Genny (Genny Classic for woman), Piguet (Bandit), Gres (Cabochard) and "stuffs" like those. Actually Bois 1920 Come la Luna seems to "assemble" in its body several "facets" from almost all the previous old-fashioned concoctions. This fragrance is a classic mossy-chypre with plenty of spices, an hyper hesperidic/aromatic/piquant opening, a structural earthy-spicy patchouli surrounded by aromatic elements and "divinely stuffy" floral notes (jasmine in particular) and with a soapy-animalic-resinous-vaguely leathery base. Basically an old school spicy/animalic chypre with subtle final leathery accents (a fragrance, in its top and core, really close to the Aramis by Aramis's first and central stage- slightly more floral, earthier and milder). In particular rosewood, oakmoss and patchouli are pushed up and "spiced up" by plenty of cloves and pepper. Finally ambergris, honey, may be further animalic elements, jasmine/ylang-ylang, a whiff of frankincense and oakmoss swirl around a central "vintage (spicy)" patchouli in the classiest of the valzers a la Opium, Bandit or Aromatics Elixir. Not an original creation but a well appointed homage to a precious "pictorial" left back "ambience"(cultured, spicy, exotic and mystic) that will never anyway be out of style.
24th May, 2015

Dunhill Fresh by Dunhill

Smart but lazy. What a shame. Dunhill Fresh could have been a really good perfume for me, if they just put some more effort in it. It is basically a violet-centered mix between a brighter version of Dior’s Fahrenheit crossed with Jil Sander Man; sort of greener and more “aquatic” than both, with a really nice soft leather base note and a smooth powdery accord of violet and green stuff. A sprinkle of woods and that’s it. So there is this kind of dark, really mellow and comforting smooth base of powdery synthetic leather with a really enjoyable and refined wood accord, topped with a sort of damp green accord of grassy citrus and herbs. So far so good, so where’s the problem? The problem is that for some inexplicable reasons, it all smells deeply, desperately lifeless and pale for me. Maybe the materials are cheap, but more than that, in my opinion it feels like if they had these two nice “ideas” to develop – something leathery-violet-rubbery, something grassy-aquatic-musky – and at some point they just slapped one onto the other and bottled the concoction as-is, without really caring to “tune in” the notes together. So you get this blend which seems containing two separate layers which proceed in a parallel way rather than blending, like if you layered two different perfumes. And they end up in taming down and annihilating each other. That’s a shame because you feel they would go well together, with just some more tuning and some consistency to really become “one” – and a quite good one. Instead here it all remains kind of uneven and patchy in my opinion. Not a complete disaster, though: as-is, it’s a decently nice, classy, warm and unoffensive office-safe perfume with an elegant and discreet projection close to skin (and a crap persistence). Nothing really “fresh” for me, but bright in its own way. Just way duller than it may have been with just a little more effort.

24th May, 2015

Trèfle Pur by Atelier Cologne

Trèfle Pur opens with a pleasant and quite old school citrus-woody-musky structure reminding of any classic masculine eau de cologne – from 4711 to several designer “eaux” (Hermès, Cartier, Dior, Rochas...). Citrus, neroli, green notes, woods, something musky-resinous: as much good as more conventional than ever. The only difference here for me would me initially a subtle and quite nondescript sort of humid grassy-earthy note that I can not identify clearly, which provides a peculiar (and honestly, just partially pleasant) sort of damp, sultry, sort of “vegetable” feel that reminds me of the infamous “spinach” note of Guerlain’s Coriolan – just a bit more pungent and cheaper here. This, and a light pastel hint of violet. Finally as minutes pass the cardamom note emerge with its enveloping spicy warmth well blending with an equally “emerging” note of vetiver, and that’s it for a couple of hours until the very final drydown arrives – a really light and quite pleasant sort of “dusty” and clean woody-soapy accord. Softly bracing and classy, and also quite well persistent. But yet not enough not to make me consider Trefle Pur a bit uninteresting overall, as it smells basically like any (cheaper) designer with these same notes, and I wonder who on Earth would pay 65 EUR for 30 ml of this zesty dullness; but fairly nice per se.

24th May, 2015

LAVS by Unum

Ok ... it seems that in Italy live only Catholics excited persons!
However, I can read things as this concept and do not smile, with regret!

“UNUM talks about the Spirit. Not only about spirituality.
UNUM is a wet tissue in gold,
scented of colors, dense taste with your eyes closed, Painting olfactory ego,
Music that builds fragrances of images, Architecture of the Spirit.
UNUM is Art. And art does not feel border closures or censorship.
Precisely because of its uniqueness, Art is a universal language.
UNUM wants to be this Universe.”

Filippo Sorcinelli is definitely a capable designer, chronicles define his “papal clothes” extraordinary!

This article tells of some Catholics who probably wanted Filippo Sorcinelli out of the religious circles, as he is also a member of (Arci)gay organization (a sick Italian history); in this article one of his dress is described as follows:

"A true work of art that packaged for the Pope: 27 large oval zircons topaz set in silver gilt, 256 crystal stones, 2186 round stones in gold bath in sizes from 4 to 8 mm. For a total of 2769 gems. For the decorations we were chosen six types of hems in antique gold. "

The designer of the pope now also creates perfumes! What does that mean? That opulence is considered sacred!
I believe that art is sacred and I believe that art doesn’t need opulence!

Finally, this scent is opulent, opulent, opulent and opulent too.
Personally I prefer the opulence of ideas and some bohemian paths.
A good Terenzi’s work in perfumery incense (elemi) concepts, between the mysticism of the liturgies and the fetishism of luxury!
24th May, 2015

The Botanist by MiN New York

Some would define this beet-root botany
as a green perfume!
Some would define this pure monotony
as a green smoking room!

Caution: Do not exceed the recommended doses

Mouthwash: the recommended dose is 2-3 daily gargling with 10 ml of mouthwash.

Oromucosal solution: the recommended dose is 2 sprays 3 times daily taken directly to that area.

do not exceed the prescribed dose unless recommended by your physician.

Warning bis:
It isn’t an oral contraception! But If you put this perfume on and ask a girl to have sex with you, she says “no!”.
24th May, 2015

Or du Serail by Naomi Goodsir

Why do perfumers, as the shapers of our consciousness, have such radically different approaches to the path of creativity? Simple, because they are not creative persons! They are domesticated dogs to different masters!

Naomi is a designer, an original one, as designer she has her style. Her thought is not a kind of approaching to her mindset, she is not problem-focused, she’s solution focused, and action oriented. This involves both analysis and imagination. In this case, she has analyzed and imagined her perfume, but was unable to make its design! For this the scent seems a way that she should go back to get to the end of the problem, to the solution: Or du Serail. It looks like a road leading to her and not to depart from her!

I don’t know if there is a mood in this perfume, as the harem, or the gold, or if she was thinking about Topkapı Palace! It is impossible to understand! This is my point of you: here are working a creative person (Naomi) and a part time superhero (Batman).
Naomi (and) Batman made a selectio of raw materials, here is the yerba mate (ilex paraguariensis)! It seems mate or something like this one! The result is the same of Zebra Jungle by Kenzo (1998)… The notes of bitter mate perhaps frighten everyone, and everyone seems to want to restore the balance of the perfume with tobacco or wood, honeyed scent and a little 'of synthetic flavorings to adjust the drydown! Zebra was focused more in citrusy and woody notes, but the result is the same nonsense. What mate need? Benzoin, tonka and ginger! This could be the canvas on which to express your art, Naomi.
This is the story!

"And that concludes our presentation of the Batcave’s team. Any questions? Any orders? Yes, you the chick with strange clothes!."

"So you say you know how to use the mate?”

“Of course, the bat-mate!”

“And your bat-cave is right under Bertrand Duchaufour ‘s house?"

"Yes it is, a right bat-observation!"

"And the only entrance is through a staircase connected to Bertrand Duchaufour ‘s house, right?"

"Bat-right again!"

"So... May be you are Bertrand Duchaufour, then?"

"Ah! MM! Well, that's an interesting bat-question with a pretty...HOLY SHIT SMOKE BOMB!"

Batman throws smoke bomb and runs off…

“I fear that we can forget the mate!”

23rd May, 2015 (last edited: 26th May, 2015)
drseid Show all reviews
United States

Lômusk by Santi Burgas

Lomusk opens with relatively transparent synthetic musk, quickly adding in a slightly sweet fruity accord before moving to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart the synthetic musk and modestly sweet fruity accord co-staring pair remain as salty synthetic ambergris begins to creep into the mix. As time passes the salty faux ambergris becomes the sole star of the composition as it grows leaps and bounds in its intensity with the original co-starring pair now all but absent. During the late dry-down the salty synthetic ambergris remains star as a brunt rubbery undertone joins in support late through the finish. Projection is on the low side of average, but longevity is outstanding at about 15 hours on skin.

Lomusk really is a poor name for this composition as the real focus is ambergris. There really isn't much to say about the development as the composition stays relatively linear throughout, keeping the focal ambergris in the spotlight, featuring its salty aspect quite heavily. This is kind of the base you might expect in a lot of ambery aquatics and the like, except many of those have a lot more going on to keep one's interest where Lomusk seems to really just be a faux ambergris base sold as a standalone composition. One should keep in mind that Santi Burgass compositions are supposed to be able to be worn combined just as readily as by themselves, and Lomusk is probably the most obvious candidate for this kind of use. That said, as it is sold as a standalone composition it will be evaluated as such, and when looked at this way it is a simplistic synthetic salty ambery concoction that is relatively unappealing. The bottom line is the 89 Euro per 50ml bottle Lomusk really smells like it should be called "Loambergris" to this writer, staying simplistic and boring through the finish earning a "poor" 2 stars out of 5 and a strong avoid recommendation. If one likes faux ambergris when used as a base, Lomusk may have some use with other compositions in the Santi Burgass range to complete the package and improve the overall result. This writer, however, is not interested in this kind of overly salty presentation in any form so it is a big miss.
23rd May, 2015

parfums*PARFUMS Series 1 Leaves: Calamus by Comme des Garçons

Comme des Garcons Calamus is a "bamboo based" green (or better...musky) concoction with a plain vegetal fleeting aura, a central mild-floral synthetic muskiness and a touch of soapiness. Frankly I dont find at all this juice refreshing (celery grains and angelica root fail in order to provide a veritable freshly botanic vibe) and on the contrary it seems to miss on my skin a really green-fresh or woodsy aromatic feel. I catch by soon the bamboo's "languid" influence (somewhat mineral, suave, mild, vaguely ozonic, floral, fluidy, "peaceful") which smells delicate, musky, vaguely lacteous-lymphatic and rosey. The greeness is just initial and it seems by soon floral and vaguely edible-culinary. My perception (after the ephemeral green opening) is by soon the one to catch anyway a typically synthetic/chic soapy-musky-rosey "atmosphere" (vaguely a la Eliee Saab Le Parfum) on my skin and a combination of synthetic ethereal (somewhat rosey) balmy notes, a touch of vegetal undiscerned "syrup" and patchouli. Is pretty perfect what rogalal writes before which I'm respectfully going to quote " It's naturalistic but doesn't smell like anything in nature. It's chemical but still smells like something alive". The dry down is flat and with a poor structure despite still suave and deliciously soapy-floral (a water-lily's presence?). Calamus seems a fragrance heralding a pure platonic love in the futuristic age of soul perdition, its aroma is evocative about left back diaphanous instants of purity emerging up from your fairy babyhood. Poor longevity on my skin.
23rd May, 2015

In Leather Man by Etienne Aigner

In Leather Man by Aigner is hands down the worst leather fragrance I’ve ever tried. Even taking into account the really cheap price, for me it is still just desperately obnoxious, and completely unworthy *any* price. It opens with a harsh, extremely artificial nondescript smell which I think should be aimed at evoking leather, while it clumsily smells more like a car under the sun – not a particularly rusty or dirty one, just a normal car with that really boring smell of plastic, metal, rubber, cheap imitation leather. I think I get some musk, some components similar to what other manufacturers know better how to use for leather accords, and something ambery; it may sound decent, but the result is just a disaster for me. It’s not leather – actually for me this is really nothing at all. The drydown arrives quickly, light and sweaty. Until now I used to consider as the “worst leather fragrances” the ones which just uncreatively reiterate the same usual aromachemicals (e.g. suederal, safraleine ecc.), but at least, they smell “leather”. This smells just nauseating nonsense for me. If you want to stick to this brand (God knows why) I recall Aigner Black being a little more decent and more similar to an actual leather scent.

23rd May, 2015

Smoke Essence by Goti

Smoke by Goti smells to me basically like Comme des Garçons Kyoto with a synthetic boozy-resinous note and something slightly fruity enhancing the warmer and sweeter side of (synthetic) incense. Balsamic and mentholated, smoky and sweetly warm, with a decidedly “aloof” and contemporary vibe as you may guess by the packaging. And a really nice, subtle yet surprisingly true to life and “living” woody accord. Really easy to like and wear... even too much, maybe; for this price and this market positioning I would personally expect something more than such a “friendly”, and honestly not that impressive sweet-minty incense. I mean: it smells great, refined and stylish, but also a bit redundant among the plethora of similar, and often cheaper offerings - and in my opinion a bit unnecessarily hipster too (this including the packaging and the retail channels they chose for distributing this – again, just a personal opinion regarding expectations vs. reality). The juice per se is highly enjoyable, bracing and versatile, with also a slight and I guess involuntary connection to Gucci Rush Men on the drydown – so yes, I would surely grab it if I found a half-priced bottle; it is just something a bit less “unique” and interesting than it may seem at first.

23rd May, 2015

Join The Club : Ascot Moon by Xerjoff

Xerjoff Ascot Moon is surely one of the finest and classiest pieces of the Join The Club Collection. This fragrance strikes us by soon since it smells somewhat classic and lacking that typical soapy-spicy/exotic balminess characterizing almost all the further juices of the same Collection. Well it seems that the Ascot Moon's inspiration is related to horse Clubs and to the hippodrome's atmosphere. The opening is by soon classically hesperidic/aromatic and almost minty. It seems to assist to another ordinary eau de cologne's evolution (possibly bergamot, coriander, verbena and stuffs like these swirl in the air and it seems to detect a touch of vetiver too). Anyway, over less than five minute the aroma evolves significantly, we start catching by soon a rising pungent woodsy resinous presence (fir resins), a tad of rootiness (probably patchouli and cedarwood) and finally a musky accord of leather and mossy galbanum. The leathery presence increases its strenght along the way and it seems to be "supported" by red berries, smoke (increasing along the way) and finally a touch of frankincense. The leather in here is not so far (just a tad more prominent) from the Micallef Royal Vintage's herbal leathery combination (stout, earthy, still herbal-aromatic, spicy-resinous) while the whole accord seems to derivate its main inspiration from another fragrance yet, the "insuperable" Geo F. Trumper Eucris which has been along the decades source of inspiration for a huge amount of following olfactory "experiments". The resinous presence is notable in its combination of rubbery, incensey and sticky woodsy "ingredients" despite along the way the aroma starts turning out more and more smoky, dry and restrained. On the complex I find this fragrance quite well appointed, it is classy, really virile and more than distinguished despite we can find in here originality or much less uniqueness.
P.S: along the way, in its final trait of evolution, the "smoked rubber" vibe seems increased and this effect seems conjuring more than vaguely several Santa Maria Novella Nostalgia/Profumum Arso's nuances.
23rd May, 2015

RED + MA by Blood Concept

The secret to making money isn't working on an artistic project, it’s finding creative solutions for stupid people, and it doesn't take a fancy degree to do that. To get your creative perfume you need: money, PR, and a clerk/nose. Have you them in your pockets? You’ll also need more general financial advice on fashion as well as some money-making ideas for kids. The arts entertain, educate, delight, and enrich. This perfume has a great value, in fact it represents the focus of controversy, contention, and debate about artistic, political, cultural, and ethical matters.
I'm thinking someone believes Antoine Lie as Lady Gaga! Let him produce art, and not concepts for the marketing!

Tomorrow, at lunch with Santa Claus: vegan lunch for the reindeer.
22nd May, 2015 (last edited: 26th May, 2015)
drseid Show all reviews
United States

Lôjazz by Santi Burgas

Lojazz opens with a banana-like tuberose and relatively sanitized jasmine floral duo. As the composition moves to its early heart the tuberose and jasmine florals remain as co-stars, adding lemon tinged magnolia and green violet additional floral support with a slightly sweet orange flower undertone. During the late dry-down the tuberose, violet and magnolia vacate, leaving remnants of the jasmine to pair with traces of the supporting slightly sweet orange flower through the finish. Projection is very good and longevity average at 7-8 hours on skin.

After being relatively disappointed with most of the Santi Burgess samples I really had low expectations for Lojazz going in. I am happy to write that while Lojazz is not going to set the world afire with innovation or top quality raw materials, at least this offering from the generally disappointing Santi Burgass house smells good. Jasmine and tuberose very commonly paired in perfume, and Santi Burgass wisely goes with the tried and true for Lojazz. Even though the composition is supposed to presumably feature the jasmine with a name like "Lojazz," it is actually the tuberose that is more prominent to my nose through the mid-section. Joining the starring pair is key violet support. Most of the time violet comes off as powdery, but in this case the perfumer chose to feature its less oft used green facet, with the choice working here. The biggest letdown is the late dry-down as it primarily features the jasmine, but the ingredient is so sanitized there really is not a lot of character once the character adding tuberose is gone. At the end of the day, Lojazz is a pleasant composition that I certainly enjoyed wearing but as with the rest of the Santi Burgass offerings it just is not interesting enough to keep my attention long-term over other offerings in its crowded genre. The bottom line is the 89 Euro per 50ml bottle Lojazz is probably the best offering in the sub-par Loant Collection, but while it earns a solid "good" to "very good" 3 to 3.5 star out of 5 rating it just doesn't distinguish itself enough from the pack to keep one's attention long-term warranting a purchase. Minor reservations aside, Lojazz is worth a try at least for jasmine and tuberose lovers in particular.
22nd May, 2015