I am not the best at reviews but I feel the need to step up on this one.
After the commercial I dutifully ordered a bottle being a Guerlain Junky. ( Vintage Guerlain in general).
Not surprising that Mon Guerlain smells very ordinary and smells very much like something else on the market that I smell on people walking in the mall. Very Ordinary. Not bad or overwhelming.
It smells nice. But who wants nice?
The best thing about Min Guerlain is the commercials with Ms Jolie. If I wear this will people think I am as glamorous as she? Not. I think I will stick to Angelique Encens where I am quite sure people think I am as glamorous as Marlene Dietrich! Ha ha just kidding.
Building upon the original, the too notes here is a reasonable, albeit not particularly exciting honeysuckle impression that is not very sweet on my skin.
The core constituent is a delightful jasmine, quite discreet and with an ever so slightly earthy undertone at times, well executed but after the first couple of hours very close to my skin.
The base continues the jasmine theme, but there is a gently woodsy and slightly spicy character prresent now; mainly whiffs of cedar and a nutmeg impression to be more precise. Towards the end a faint vanilla, very restrained and not very sweet, is evident throughout the last couple of hours.
The sillage is soft, the projection adequate and the longevity six hours on my skin.
Whilst mostly not very exciting, the special hallmark of this spring-day creation is the very nice jasmine core, whose natural and high-quality ingredients push this scent across the line to achieve a positive score, in spite of the overall limited performance. For the lover of top-notch jasmine who is willing to re-apply repeatedly throughout the day, this scent might prove worthwhile. 3.25/5.
I like the house of Amouage, and I love floral, powdery heliotrope-driven perfumes, but Lilac Love did not work for me. It has all the elements that I like in this style of perfume, but it also has some other qualities that drive me nuts. I smell a gardenia note that I recognize from Elie Saab Le Parfum that unfortunately resembles Raid roach spray (Raid has a weird, almost-perfumey quality) to my nose. The powder sensation Lilac Love gives goes above and beyond the usual powder bombs I enjoy: smelling it makes me feel like my nose has become stopped up and numb at the same time (if you have ever gone near certain recreational substances, you'll know what I mean). And all of this seems piled on a laundry musk that feels out of place in a big floral perfume of this kind. So that's it for me--roach spray, cocaine, and dryer sheets all sort of piled on top of the powdery, almondy coziness of Lorenzo Villoresi's Teint de Neige with Amouage-quality power and tenacity--in other words, sort of like a bad acid trip that will not end.
A sweetish opening blast, mostly due to a pleasant honeysuckle that is a touch unexciting - less scintillating than, for instance, Creed's Chevrefeuille - but nonetheless well executed.
The core note develops very early in the drydown, a beautiful orange blossom that is rich, sunny and intense - a sheer delight. A touch of an orangey undertone is present, but in the base it is exchanged for a rather restrained tonka note.
In the end what remains is the orange blossom with the tonka fading out slowly. This is a successful pairing throughout; and it is never sticky or cloying.
I get moderate sillage, good projection and a very reasonable eight hours of longevity on my skin.
The one thing that is truly convincing in this summery evening creation is the gorgeous orange blossom centrepiece that elevates this scent into a higher tier of quality, not least due to the first-class natural ingredients used in this mix. Although maybe the whole is a touch too linear, the orange blossom wins the day. An orange blossom classic. 3.75/5.
Incense, spices and sweetness (candied fruit ?).
What is not to like.
But the beauty of this fragrance is its balance. You have to try it to believe it.
These three accords play very nice with each other, making sure everyone is heard. One can isolate them enjoy them on their own. But you can also let them coalesce and smell their union - a rare thing in perfumery.
After a fresh opening blast of petit grain and neroli, a lovely orange blossom develops and take over as the main note. This orange blossom is of excellent quality and remains in the foreground until closer to the end; at times other white florals, mainly gardenia, are also evident.
In the second half a sweeter undertone develops, p pleasamt vanilla mainly, and woodsy components in the background deliver some counterbalance to the sweeter notes.
The sillage is moderate, the projection very good and the longevity nine hours on my skin.
This very pleasant spring creation lives by the high-quality orange blossom core. Never really very sweet on my skin, it is definitely worth a try. 3.5/5.
Crazy how good this is!
Truly one of the most masculine and cool scents ever. Makes me smile with every wearing....
Dominated by Fresh pine and leather
Put on a white Tee with a pack of camels rolled up in the sleeve.
Throw on a leather jacket.
Now jump on a Harley and take a drive through the country and breath it all in.
the dry tobacco....
Yep, you're cool like Fonzie.
On the other hand:
If you're looking for something to wear while driving your Vespa to the local Starbucks to enjoy a non-fat, vegan, half cal frapuccino with the rest of your skinny jeans/dress shoes with no socks buddies this is probably not for you.
This is an embarassingly grotesque parody of an old-school lavender scent with absolutely 0 (zero) vetiver in it. Just sickening cheap lavender and a ton of moldy camphoraceous musk. Weirdly dusty and humid at once, basically like licking the sweaty neck of a decommissioned drag queen.
I can solemnly assert that Zoologist Civet is a contemporary gem, really, a cult fragrance (by now a modern classic), a pretty gorgeous creation which, while paying tribute to a classic baroque french honeyed-mossy-spicy chypre tradition (civet= Coco Chanel, Guerlain Djedi, Rochas Mystere, Must de Cartier, Estee Lauder Knowing etc), manages at same time to strum the (wilder fruity-spicy) strings of the Indie's
dodgy creative underworld, succeeding in the aim to conjugate (exactly a la House of Matriarch Bohemian Black, a far Civet's cousin) classic and contemporary, baroquely structural and the wild cozy countryside-farm's universe (just to be better intended: ideally the classic Roccobarocco woman or Ungaro Diva interpenetrate their classic substance with the visceral Slumberhouse Sova or Rundholz 03.Apr.1968). A proudly synth note of civet is in here connected to roasted coffee, resinous plummy-figgy spices, tropical flowers and "forest" in order to disclose a bold bloody (salty-plummy) effluvium which is all at once sapiently (with balance) alluring and wildly rural. Opening is quite visceral, a blast of sultry-spicy indescribable emotions (dark, sparkling, multicolored, equatorial, dry-fruity and dirty/sweated). I detect by soon a dark resinous-peppery-woodsy/mossy-liquorous classically chypre background enveloping the brisk sultry elements of the piquant night and overall is supported by a toasted accord of earthy patchouli, burnt dried fruits and roasted coffee. I can pick up dried figs, tropical flowers (kind of orchid, tuberose, ylang-ylang), salty leather, toasted tobacco, liqueur, sugary nuts, impenetrable spices, woods, misty resins and tasty balsams (the culinary-boozy-bloody carnality of this opening "recalls" to me an ideal combination of Les Liquides Imaginaires Belo Rabello and several of the spiciest/more syrupy/honeyed Slumberhouse's creations a la Jeke and Sova). Apart toasted coffee I detect a general (typically Indie in style) burnt-sugar's effect as mastering (resins galore). The core of this juice is represented by this central mysterious connection of toasted coffee and a sort of animalic black (salty-acid) musk (the synth civet's effect). I don't get the civet's typical fecal vibe, while I surely detect (as background and after many hours) an erotic sort of "stale - vaguely acid - pungent sweat of the body recesses-effect" combined with wax and honey (which is typical of vintage animalic chypres). Along the way various balsams seem to go soothing the elements and a muskier-lighter more "polished" chypre (mossy-woody-honeyed) vibe pops up as a stroke of fate. I detect in this phase a vaguely less dark presence of honey, oakmoss, heliotrope and mossy leather. The main effect, despite stable (sapiently orchestrated, alluring, elegant) and proudly classic "in school", is anyway destabilizing, avant-garde and incredibly erotic. Super bold sillage and great longevity on my feral skin. Excellent creation nearby the house of Zoologist.
A deep, dark opening of ripe, fruity plum and touches of raisin that soon gives way to the high-power floral onslaught: a tuberose is tuberose is tuberose. This tuberose is deep, dark, with some, but not a lot, of waxiness attached to it. A whole battery of other floral notes are needed to counteract the soaring central tuberose: a darkish rose for starters, with jasmine, orchids and carnation contributing their shares.
The second stage mellows a bit and grows sweeter, owing to to tonka and ylang-ylang, and whiffs of a light musky undertone. Towards the end touches of neroli add a slightly brighter note.
I get strong sillage, excellent projection and nine hours of longevity on my skin.
A rich scent for cool spring and warm autumn evenings, this is for the tuberosophilic only. In all its headiness it still is quite balanced on me, and never cloying or overly intrusive, except, perhaps, for the first minute or so. The main drawback - and the main reason for the neutral score, is an, at times overbearing, synthetic nature of the core components. 2.75/5.
Nightingale is my first experience with Zoologist, the magnificent "by flora/fauna-inspired" Indie/naturalistic canadian alchemic niche brand. Their collection is aimed to capture the idiosyncrasies of the animal kingdom, transforming them into scents that are somewhat unusual and original. The main goal is supposed to be the one to connect "by perfumes" the wearer to great delights of the natural world. My first impression testing the juice on skin is immediately kind of wowing me; whatta resinous impact, what a fantastic indolic approach, what a visceral fruity-floral musky assault!! First of all, this is a super spicy-resinous creation (spicy frankincense, oudh, ambergris, fir resins, labdanum etc), as much resinous to conjure me (anyway in to a far more fruity-floral key) scents a la Cerchi Nell'Acqua Usmar Venezia, Tiziana Terenzi Gold Rose Oudh or several of the most straightforward frankincense-based accords (though in this case frankincense is well calibrated and is just like a brick of a more complex high construction). There is a "nowadays classic" central accord of rose/saffron/oudh but in this case fruity-floral intense elements and rich muskiness provide a new deeper vegetal outcome. The juice expresses a "japanese-in-inspiration" sort spring-time botanic atmosphere (the perfumer Tomoo Inaba is surely inspired by her japanese origin and the "naturalistic past" in deep contact to nature). Nightingale is a fruity-floral chypre (finally honeyed, rosey, waxy, apparently aldehydic, musky) opening with an assault of rosey saffron, plums (japanese plum blossoms) and violet under my profane south-european nose. Violet is temperamental for sure. The rosey vibe is by soon super spicy, creamy and yummy (sort of balmy, almost saffrony-syrupy) and its royal neo-victorian neutral/detergent/botanic/leafy-like vibe is counteracted by a more pungent accord of plums and violet (kind of berrish, juicy and candied). The overall atmosphere is surely musky, hyper musky, silvan and vegetal. A lemony note (on the side of woods) reinforces in the meanwhile the fruity-floral "plummine's intensity" and the general "perfumed botanic intensity" of the opera. The visceral floral syrup (really saffrony-rosey, plummy and resinous), as conjoined to carnal resins and deep musk, provides a quite sensual general effect while patchouli enhances structure and charisma. A fragrance by a great structure, gorgeousness and complexity claiming to capture the Japanese spring's onset with an obsessive dark floral pungency and a general sense of soapy-assertive oriental rapture. Excellent.
The ’70s was the decade of the sequel and the greatest hits album. It’s as if the late ’60s had used up the cultural capacity for new ideas and reiteration was the new innovation. As the name implies, Dior Dior favored repetition over novelty.
All members of Edmond Roudnitska’s citrus chypre family trace their roots to the voluptuous stone fruit chypres Femme and Diorama, but Dior Dior is better viewed against the other citrus chypres: Moustache, Eau Fraîche, Eau d’Hermès, le Parfum de Thérèse. Roudnitska investigated the fruity chypre, pulling a hint of decay from the common ground of overripe fruit and mature flowers.
Dior Dior owes much to the two perfumes that directly preceded it. You can smell whole pieces of Eau Sauvage and Diorella while wearing Dior Dior. The fruit is fresher than Diorella’s half-decayed melon and despite a hefty dose of moss, Dior Dior is more straight-laced than Eau Sauvage. The lemon/aldehyde pairing recreates Eau Sauvage’s mouth-watering lemon-drop but overall Dior Dior resembles Diorella. It shares Diorella’s general shape, but squeezes it into a girdle to suppress any errant curves.
With a brighter fruit note and cleaner florals Dior Dior comes off as more prim than its siblings. Compared to Diorella’s sultriness and easy virtue, and Eau Sauvage’s cruisy Playboy After Dark vibe, Dior Dior is a prig. The hint of skank tempers Dior Dior’s coloratura topnotes, but only *just*. If Diorella reflected a chic, offbeat style, Dior Dior suited a debutante. First impressions matter. The lemony shine and choir of aldehydes create a peppy, Anita Bryant/Up-With-People cheerfulness that seems at odds with the turned-fruit styles of chypre that Roudnitska developed over the years.
‘Cultural’ tone aside, Dior Dior is an excellent example of Roudnitska’s pursuit of simplicity. In his discussion of the art of perfumery he espoused the belief that richness doesn’t require complexity. His sumptuous perfumes were apparently the result of succinct formulae. Generating plush perfumes from concise composition might appear counterintuitive, but Roudnitska proved his point. His perfumes couldn’t rightly be called minimalist but they all have a feeling of perfect balance. Elements that don’t contribute to a perfume’s central goal have been edited out and the central olfactory ideas are diamond-like. In this respect, Dior Dior is classic Roudnitska.
Fruity green chypre which recalls for example Cristalle (Chanel) as well as Chypre Mousse from Oriza Legrand. A nice fragrance, I would have said feminine rather than masculine, unless you regard all perfumes as unisex.
My initial impression was something rich and smoky, tarry, almost like cade oil. But with a heavy animalic aspect, leathery, with maybe a hint of licorice. Perfect for when I don my leathers and mosey down to the bikers club to meet my fellow greasers for a ton-up ride.
Immediate positive reaction to this one, and yes, I got the banana even before I read the official description. And I would have said tuberose, but it may be the frangipani and ylang, at any rate it's a mellifluous cocktail. Probably with masculine appeal similar to Hermes rocabar.
I was at once repelled and fascinated by this perfume. It's unpleasant but in a captivating way, and it's like nothing I've ever smelled. The nearest might be Mugler's Womanity, but it's even more bizarre than that. Totally alien, like something from another planet. If this was a car, it would be a Nissan Juke. So ugly, it's almost beautiful.
I agree with you, Goodlife, that Le 15 is not particularly thrilling. But if you check on Ausliebezumduft, all the Different Co's perfumes are categorically guaranteed to avoid all synthetics, iso-e-super included! I pointed out the musk cannot be synthetic, and they revised the claim to 95 to 99% natural. Difficult to believe and they may have corrected their claims now, but at least the bottles are good quality and some of the scents are quite good. However, this one is forgettable, like you say.
This is indeed a rose that is a rose that is a rose. Initially a bold but elegant rose impression, it soon adds a second rose impression that is sweeter and very bright. The top notes a definitely on the bright side.
The drydown, whilst sticking with the rose-theme, is smoother, the sweetness more discrete, and touches of anise and a soft patchouli in the central stage, but until the end theme is remains a potpourri if different roses; initially Damascene, later more centifolia.
I get moderate sillage, very good sillage and seven hours of longevity on my skin.
A gorgeous summer rose scent, elegant and rich at the same time, and composed of beautiful ingredients of high quality. A rose fest for the rose lover. 3.75/5
With its intriguing name and green colour, I was keen to sample this fragrance, but when I finally got to do so it was different from what I expected. Not a green note in sight, my main impression was the overdosed musk. And the type of musk veers uncomfortably towards old fashioned musk ketone, not one of my favourites. Supposedly it evokes cherry tree blossoms in springtime Japan, though whether this is anything more than marketing hype is debatable.
With time however this fragrance has rather grown on me. Perceptions change, as is often the case. The musk seems sweeter and more modern, similar to Creed's Original Vetiver for example. The freshness reminds me of Lancôme's Aquatonic, a very clean impression overall. I can even believe noses more sensitive than mine might pick out some subtle green notes. They could be related to the greenness in Comme des Garcons Calamus, which is also described as resembling dandelions.
24th March, 2017 (last edited: 27th March, 2017)
One of the best ambers. Beast mode projection/longevity. Nothing to dislike unless you dislike Amber. 10/10
Well its bergamot alright, the question is whether it's a nicer smell than good quality bergamot oil itself. I'm not presently convinced of that but I'm reserving judgement.
I can't say more about Cobra, other than it is a like more subtle, softer and more floral version of Poison. Very pleasant, but does not really work on my skin. Cobra, is, however, a perfectly respectable fragrance, and nothing like the nasty cheap copies of Poison that were around in the 80s, when Poison was so popular.
One of my favourite Al-Rehab fragrances. Classic comes out of the bottle smelling like a more subtle version of Mugler's A*Men, but softens and sweetens on my skin very quickly, to reveal beautiful rose, peach and very subtle chocolate notes, against a woody base.
I read a review recently of someone describing Classic as being a Chanel No5 clone, which I find a very bizarre comparison!
Very beautiful, soft and long lasting - absolutely perfect.
This powerhouse is perfect for cold winter days! It smells like a pungent woody, tarry mixture of Caron's Yatagan and Nina Ricci's long-lamented Phileas, with a touch of Chanel's Cuir de Russie.
Like most of the Al-Rehabs, I find Dehn Al Oud softens and sweetens on my skin after wearing for about an hour, though this is minimal with this fragrance.
Definitely an autumn/winter fragrance - I really can't imagine it in warm weather!
The name Choco Musk says it all: milk chocolate with a touch of musk. This fragrance doesn't change or develop on my skin at all: I had been expecting something more along the lines of Mugler's A*Men, but what I got was Cadbury's Dairy Milk in a bottle!
Not at all unpleasant, but milk chocolate, and very little else.
I think Superman must behave quite oddly on my skin: I don't get clove at all, but rather strong nutmeg and pepper notes, similar to Cacharel Pour Homme. As with most of the Al-Rehabs I have tried, the fragrance softens and sweetens after about an hour, and a subtle green base becomes more apparent. Unfortunately, a nasty, sickly oily note also appears; I think this must be something my skin does, rather than the fragrance itself.
Essentially, I like Superman very much, but my skin alters it into something I can't wear.
Full (literally translating into "Bean", which I am told refers to flower buds) was the first Al-Rehab fragrance I tried, and remains one of my favourites. Jasmine dominates this fragrance, mixed with other subtle white florals and green notes.
Sweeter and less pungent than Al-Rehab's "Jasmin", Full is perfect for warmer weather, though I have worn it throughout the year.
I like Saat Safa ("Hour Of Clarity")very much, but would describe it as an Eastern take on very "safe", traditional aromatic men's fragrances, such as Marks & Spencer Woodspice and Aramis 900; ie. very pleasant, but the type of fragrance I always associate with a more mature, very traditional gentleman, who likes to smell nice, but doesn't want a perfume to make him stand out in any way.
Saat Safa opens with a mixture of rose and subtle citrus against a green and oud background: after wearing for about an hour, it sweetens, and the citrus and rose disappear, leaving herbal and aromatic green notes and oud.
Very pleasant, but very traditional, safe and aromatic.
I tend not to wear this very much but that doesn't diminish the quality of this scent. With Dior's Cologne and Allure Homme Sport Cologne being recent additions to my wardrobe, L'Eau D'Issey has moved down in the rotation. Though every time I put it on I am reminded at how unique it is and the performance is way above average for a freshie.
Says the inside of a sample card for Fahrenheit Parfum: “A pure dose of Fahrenheit enhanced with bourbon vanilla absolute. A vibrant and sensual oriental leather. Sicilian mandarin - violet - leather accords - bourbon vanilla absolute.”
Fahrenheit Parfum is curious: While it squarely wears the Fahrenheit label, it is by no means a clone, nor is it turbo-charged and reeking of gasoline.
It was not the intention of the perfumer, Mr. Demachy, to outright copy the EdT, but to make a new statement on its behalf. Instead, it is a deep, rich expression of violet, lavender, and pepper that evokes a more sophisticated fascimile of the original; mandarin orange / lemon do provide the requisite tang that the EdT has been famous for. The leather is very evident in this one, contributing to the darker, deeper experience of Fahrenheit Parfum. The oriental quality is also evident during the initial phase of wear, thanks to the vanilla, benzoin, and amber notes. The cedar, birch, and guaiac woods provide a solid, credible foundation in the base upon which the other notes blend.
In a nutshell, I’d say Fahrenheit Parfum is the refined, more mature uncle of Fahrenheit EdT. It isn’t merely an “extreme”/”intense” injection of strength into the original formula; but it is a new interpretation of the classic that still has its original DNA present in skillful ways. Definitely worth a try before blind-buying; beauty will be in the nose of the beholder here!