A peppery (huge cardamom), peppery, peppery inoffensive mainstream little fragrance (thankfully the synth oudh is not so gassy-cedary-saffrony but soapy-watery and mildly woody). Iris is dominant (in its main link with cardamomish tonka and mild woods), kind of liquid and vaguely dusty-sugary (delicately woody-mild). Not bad but "just not bad".
After my scarring experience with Gardenia, I was almost wincing the thought of having to try Tuberose, the last Dame Perfumery decant included in my swap with my American friend. Thankfully, Tuberose smells just like the tuberose used in Tubereuse Criminelle, which is to say, beautiful and slightly ugly and a bit weird (in a good way). It goes on smelling like spilled fuel, rubber, camphor, and Listerine – you know, tuberose. It’s just tuberose, doing its tuberose thang. You either like it or you don’t, but this is a good, straight-forward rendition for the purists out there that can’t hack the oddness of Tubereuse Criminelle, the smoky tobacco of Tubereuse 3 Animale, or the hallucinogenic green freshness of Carnal Flower. Me, I will stick to the more evolved stuff. I got bored of this quite quickly.
I lived in a country that held a mimosa festival every year, with parades and little girls wearing head garlands of mimosas threaded together – so I know what mimosa smells like.
Honestly, mimosa smells a bit odd at first. The perfume, Mimosa, is very true to the bloom in that it comes out of the bottle smelling like a golden, clear vegetable oil, slightly flat and oily to the nose. Within this oil aroma, there are small puffs of something quite like heliotrope – almond-like, puffy, sweet, reminiscent of Johnson’s Baby Oil, only not as “purple” or “cherry pie”-like. There are also whiffs of glue, the kind you give your kids to use for art projects. All in all, a very odd but childishly appealing aroma. Not terribly floral, but very true to life.
Later on, a powdery “yellow” pollen tonality develops, which in turn ushers in a sweet, translucent cucumber note. From this point onwards, the scent of Mimosa is mostly about that cucumber and pollen combination, which suits me just fine. I like this aspect of mimosa. The second part reminds me very much of Jo Malone’s Mimosa & Cardamom, which in turn reminds me a bit of the milky cucumber/dill/gripe water side of Le Labo Santal 33. But if you want to experience mimosa on its own, then this soliflore – Mimosa - is an excellent point of reference.
Gardenia from Dame Perfumery is a no-go for me, I’m afraid. I admit I’ve never smelled a gardenia in real life, but if it smells like this, then keep it far away from me. I am quite willing to recognize that this is very true to life, given that all the other Dame Perfumery soliflores are remarkably true to their source material. But tell me, does gardenia really smell like moldy butter, melted candy canes, and plastic? Because this is what Gardenia smells like.
Upon spraying it, I was immediately assaulted by the stench of butter that has developed black spots, and forgive me if this reference strikes you as being overly specific, but it is a clear olfactory memory from my time living in Belgrade in 2001.
Back then, the country was just opening up after years of NATO sanctions and obviously German producers were dumping all their stock on us cheaply. I would buy Meggle butter from the supermarket, and maybe 7 times out of 10, there would be black spots on it. If you have ever smelled butter that has gotten to this stage, then you’ll know that it is one of the worst smells in the world. Sometimes, the black spots would be slow to emerge and you’d eat some of it, and immediately your mouth knew that, shit, this was black spot butter.
Later, it developed into a creamy candy-like smell that my five year old son identified as “sweeties”. He thought it was pleasant and asked me to buy it. I guess he never smelled black spot butter – his father and I had only begin dating when black spot butter was a part of our lives, otherwise he never would have asked me. I have bought a fair few perfumes on his request (Un Bois Vanille, Etro Heliotrope) but I’m afraid I can’t indulge him here. Even the memory of it is making me dry-retch.
I think Narcissus is the clear standout in the Dame Perfumery soliflores I have thus far tested, although they are all very true to their source materials. Narcissus smells extremely dirty when first sprayed, like a men’s bathroom that had been hastily (badly) cleaned with cheap disinfectant, a nuance that runs very true to the flower’s fetid, inky barnyardy smell in nature.
But given a few minutes to settle, the sillage blooms with all the nicer aspects of narcissus itself – the yellow, oily pollen, the stemmy green aroma, the pale sweet powder, honey, grass – a heart-warming mixture of green and yellow hues, a ripped-from-nature smell that was both rudely animalic and elegant.
Wearing Narcissus allows me to recognize just how important a role narcissus plays in the grander compositions of Chamade and Le Temps d’Un Fete. It also confirmed that Romanza by Masque is stuffed to bursting with the stuff. Excellent work, and it makes me want to explore even more of Dame Perfumery's soliflores. A strange fact about this fragrance, though – it smells much nicer in one’s sillage than close up, on the skin, where it retains that dirty bathroom facet.
God, Elixir des Merveilles is such a weird perfume. The first time I tried it, I remember thinking – this right here is why people hate perfume. It was overly rich, sweet, muddy, with all the elements jumbled together in that overdone blur that defines “Rich Bitch” perfumes to me. The second time I tried it, I thought “I should learn how to read labels better” because I’d been aiming for the Ambre bottle.
Third time round, something clicked for me and I began to like it. Now I have odd, sudden cravings for it. I think it’s because I was finally able to figure out its structure. There are two sides to Elixir des Merveilles – the syrupy orange peels dipped in dark chocolate and sprinkled with sea salt on one side, and on the other, a massively butch clutch of resins and moss. It’s basically a super-gourmand grafted onto a super hairy-balled aftershave.
Both sides are as oversized as clown shoes. The oranges dipped in caramel and chocolate are sweet to the point of being grotesque. One minute you think it’s gorgeous, the next you think, Christ, this stuff is absolutely gross. The sprinkling of what feels like celery salt over the treacly mass is probably one step too far. I swing between feeling repulsed to wanting more. The countermanding element is rather chypre-like: a brusque, musky cedar, smoky balsams and resins, moss. It’s really quite dry, bitter, and smoky.
The exaggerated forms of the two parts give the perfume a cartoonish Jessica Rabbit shape. It’s like watching an overloaded plane trying to take off or Kim Kardashian walk across the road in a tight skirt. You half fear it’s going to topple over any minute. But somehow the whole thing seems to hang together and work quite well. It’s a great winter gourmand, and the oranges and resins make me think of Christmas and oddly, Theorema.
Just don’t put this on if you’re not in the right mood for it, because it sticks like glue and seems to grow grander by the minute. At times, I find it enveloping and rich – just right for a cold winter’s day. But at other times, it begins to wear me down. When my hand glides over the small bottle of it that I bought, I have to think twice before putting it on.
An amber with a herbal undertone - that is my first impression here. The next constituent I get is a woodsy note, mainly a restrained sandal initially, then cedar and a mild rose impression. So far this is not a heavy scent, but it is not a lightweight either - of medium heaviness but on the brighter side of the spectrum.
Towards the base this becomes richer, darker and sweeter. This is mainly due to added tonka - sweetness - and a soft patchouli with benzoin - darkness with a touch of smokiness.
Additionally, at the later stages I get a discrete powderiness, which is added light-handedly and is neither stuffy nor heavy.
I get moderate sillage, good projection and eleven hours of longevity on my skin.
At times lacking complexity and not super-original, this scent works well on warmer autumn days, is blended in a balanced fashion and interesting enough to deserve a positive score -just. 3/5.
Danger - this is Roja Dove's fougere entry. His fragrance oeuvre covers all the important styles and Danger is the masculine fougere stop on his list that is very traditional with an almost note for note, exact list, following many great fougeres from our fragrant past with - bergamot, lemon, tonka, violet, vanilla and these are lightened by lily of the valley and ambergris and leather in the base. The core of this fragrance is its warm fougere traditional notes that smell like the finest barbershop scent. The "danger" part is the boldness of spices that are noticeable in the first half of the fragrance life. These spices typically show up in sport fragrances for a masculine and outdoors influence. There is cumin, clove, tarragon and a prickly rhubarb note spicing the blend. These prickly spices take this fougere in a similar direction as Azzaro pour Homme and this smells like a relative of this classic during the early going. But, masterful blending leads us away from Danger with a very soft and comforting musk, vetiver and leather base. The base is very tame and a simple powdery sweetness; a surprise after all of the early spices and the following soft leather development.
All in, Danger is a very good fougere rendition that is as pleasant to wear as many classic fougere fragrances, better than most I've tried although admittedly fougere is not my favorite type of fragrance. This is not an exceptional fragrance for our current state of fragrance evolution, but is enjoyable and comforting. I would rate this one: 7 / 10 stars.
Reckless is chock full of hard angles and prickly bits that take this fragrance in conflicting different directions "bull in a china shop" style - hence the name. It is hard to classify as it has some smooth fougere elements with lemon, lavender, rose and tonka but these soft gentlemanly accords offer a base of civility that doesn't last long amid the incense, dark aromatics and musk. It has a typical masculine feel about it with the fougere notes overlaid with spice of ginger, clove and cinnamon, but civil order is disrupted with contrasting cardamom, artemsia and black pepper creating sharp turns and hard edges around the softer elements. The base is a typical grounded base of sandalwood, incense, vetiver, orris, and tonka. The musk creates a bit of a stir with an animalic type musk note that shows up like that odd strange uncle who drops in for the holidays, and then disappears later and "who knows where he got off to?". Reckless is a good name for this multi directional and changeable masculine. My only complaint about Creation R is that you don't always know what you are going to get. There is a different leading aroma at different stages and although they all smell good, there is unpredictability in the mix that shows itself for the majority of the scent life.
I would rate this perfume slightly lower than other Roja fragrances I've tried due to its dense mottled nature. It is very enjoyable to wear, but lacks the calm self assurance you feel when you have less conflict in the fragrance blend. Rating: 6 of 10 stars!
The amber that gives this creationnits name is indeed the lynchpin on this product's development, but is entials a couple of interesting twists: A fresh bergamot is added, as is an initially strong and dominant eucalyptus. This eucalyptus has, at least initially, a strongly medicinal flavour, and blends in well with the bergamot-amber dyad. Well done.
Later on added nuances include a soft patchouli with a gentle incense and transient whiffs of a nutmeg-like impression; all this fades out slowly towards the end, with the ambery remaining present in the background like the idée fixe in the Symphonie Fantastique.
On my skin the performance is very convincing, with moderate sillage, excellent projection and twelve hours of longevity.
For a warmer autumn day, this is a pleasant and well-blanced compsition, not heavy and with a couple of original twists, including the eucalyptus note that vanishes later in the drydown. A Koala's delight. 3.5/5
Lovely blend of creamy woods & flowers with good longevity.
Yes, from beginning to end amber is indeed the core impression of this creation and runs through it from beginning to end like a golden thread. What strikes me in the opening phase is the lively and lovely bergamot, which adds a fresh side tonthe amner, resulting in an inusual brightening of the ambery top note.
The drydown sheds the fresher component and adds richer and sweeter tones, with cinnamon, tonka, a light touch of fleeting incense and hints of caramel that are well placed, resulting in an admirably balanced result. This amber-centric composition is always more on the elegant than on the thickly-cloying side, even with a restrainedly resinous undertone.
I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a splendid twelve hours of longevity on my skin.
An amber scent well suited for warmer autumn days, well balanced and made with a touch of creativity, albeit, like the design of the bottle, more on the linear side. 3.5/5.
Brutal Bergamot, Herbal start of many Masculines of the Era. This blooms with a slightly dry Floral Bouquet, that of Jasmine, Rose and light rigidity of Narcisse. A quiet sharpness of Patchouli weaves with Quality Musks. Coconut barely noticeable adds a buttery succulence in the background. Another beautifully put together perfume from the 80's. Although it shares a Chanel finesse and similar structure of Antaeus, I find it has none of the skank of the one and only. I am surprised that it is not talked about so much. If you see it, pick it up.I will!!
Very pleasant sweet floral Rose, Peony, Patchouli dance. Soft and to my mind leans Feminine. Similar to L'Inspiratrice by Divine. Very nice, however the Divine is much grander with a hint of sexiness.
This is the first Bond I've tried and I am impressed.
From a Vintage sample? graciously supplied by Bavard.
Whoa! Brutal start like a typical 80's monster. Lavender citrus with an 80's dose of Leathery Labdanum dryness, Galbanum and an excellent plonk of Oakmoss. Good quality Oakmoss allows for a long drydown. I smell the outline of this 12 hours later. Some pick up a woodiness, I pick up a dry tobacco.
I could'nt help thinking, "This relates to something I've worn lately".
Dusita Le Sillage Blanc. 21 Club is more linear and as expected Mossy longlived. The Dusita has a cloud of Neroli, Orange Blossom and Ambrette that makes it prettier.
If you can find it, 21 Club is a winner, particularily with it's Oakmoss lusciousness.
Myrrhe galore! With amber!
Myrrhe from begonning to end. It is a lovely herbal note, at times with hints of a woodsy undertone, and combined with an amber impression that is impressive indeed.
What pervails throughout is the myrrhe-amber duo. At times a whiffs of woods are added, with a soft and restrained smoky-powdery undertone that sometimes also expressed mildly resinous characteristics.
I get strong sillage, excellent projection and a splendid longevity of fourteen hours on my skin.
At times this autumnal scent is a bit linear, nut otherwise it is very impressive. This is mainly due to the beautiful quality of the first-class natural ingredients, which are well-blended. A great example of a myrrhe-amber creation. 3.75/5.
This is probably the most spectacular frankincense scent I've ever smelled. The first blast is extremely strong and orgasmic, the combination of rose and incense is incredibly beautiful, this combination lasts for a few hours and as the scent dries down it becomes drier and woodier possibly from the beautiful amyris, which gives the overall fragrance a soft creaminess to it. Although the dry-down becomes much softer it unmistakably remains dry and resinous that stays true to nature of frankincense. Sultanate of Oman is yet another creation by Roja Dove that showcases just how masterful the pefumer really is. He hits this one way out of the park! Bravo!
01st December, 2016 (last edited: 02nd December, 2016)
This review is for Roja Dove Britannia which was released in 2016 (not 2012). Britannia is a different fragrance from Roja Dove Great Britain which is a limited edition and which might have the notes listed on the Basenotes page for Britannia. The notes for Britannia are: top notes - citron, bergamot, mandarin orange and tangerine; middle notes - rose de mai, jasmine, champaca, heliotrope, cassia, violet and peach; base notes - cinnamon, cloves, patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood, vanilla, cacao, musk, orris root and ambergris.
Britannia is a very clean scented, citrus and floral powdered chypre that is constructed with layerings of the very best materials to achieve a mandala of layered warm and floral simple clean pleasantness. This is the sweet powdered sheen of aristocracy and privilege. Brittania reminds me of the image of a well dressed, very proper perfectly dressed and perfumed privileged class. It smells like old world fragrances might have smelled at one time.
The note for the powdered base is centered around cacao. Cocoa powder is enhanced with musks, orris root, peach, violet, heliotrope, champaca, cinnamon, and sandalwood - all notes of powdery nature but each bringing a different aspect too of citrus, resin or floral aspects into the density of the fragrance.
Brittania appeals to our sense memory bringing back the the allure of vintage perfumes of past generations such as: Tiffany for Men, Chanel Pour Monsieur and Givenchy Gentleman. These all have that lightly scented powder base but strength as well. However the materials of Britannia are much more luxurious and intricately layered reaching for a simplicity that is difficult to achieve. This is a beautiful fragrance, that I am sure many people will enjoy and treasure. But it feels overworked and too complicated to achieve the simplicity and integrity that I was hoping to find.
01st December, 2016 (last edited: 02nd December, 2016)
A potent leather - a new or fresh leather smell as mentioned below, also a smoky, peppery, beef jerky smell, as mentioned, which all sounds fine, but it's just a bit harsh, even a bit boozy, and intermittently synthetic: imagine an especially strong-smelling leather sofa in the home of a heavy drinker and smoker, or maybe a bar.
Nothing "red" (namely baroque, luxurious, exotic or decadent) under my profane nose. If "red" is Habit Rouge, Basala or Xeryus Rouge we are unfortunately quite distant from these levels guys. A great disappointment as well as all the brand new Trussardi's recent issues (Uomo new and Black Extreme). Well, Vintage Trussardi Uomo was one of the best 10 fragrances ever created imo, here we are groping in a misty swamp of disconcerting "fashionable" mediocrity. I don't get any sign of style or creativity my friends, a pity for a brand which I generally appreciate. An uninspired combination of nowadays mainstream "scratchy/metallic/mentholated" olfactive stereotypes. To be direct, an ideal minty-ambery-spicy hyper synthetic combination of scents a la Roccobarocco Estraordinary for men, Paco Rabanne One Million, Montblanc Legend, Ysl Silver kouros, Ted Lapdus Black Soul, overall amalgamated by a disgusting neutral cedary woodiness and by hints of pale (somewhat impalpable) ambroxan-mastered creamy simil booziness (cognac? Magari!!!). Violet, clary sage's mintiness, tonka/tolu balm and gassy woodiness are dominant under my nose. Great italian classy packaging. Pass by. Please Trussardi, be serious, give me back my immense vintage Uomo.
Love it! It starts with a nice blend of aromatic herbs and fresh spiciness and dries down to an aromatic floral-spicy-moss like base. It is so well blended that it can be difficult to separate the notes. Not that I mind, since well blended is a positive feature in my book.
The dry down seems to contain a dose of oakmoss and perhaps a dash of civet. It is unapologetic masculine - make no mistake about it as this is no unisex fragrance. I find it rather sexy - for the grown up man.
I cannot compare it with the regular Equipage since I don't know that fragrance well enough, though this fragrance is excellent and one of Hermes' best, in my opinion. It projects quite well and has a rather good duration, perhaps 6-7 hours on my skin.
The opening mixes the eponymous myrrhe with a mandarin and a floral lotus impression - and it does that very well. A rich myrrh, it is nicely balanced by its citrus sidekick, very nicely indeed.
Later on he amber arises - not very dark an amber it is - and light brushings of a sweetish raisinous undertone also present. Bitter almond is also features here, with a pleasantly smoky undertone. The base adds gentle spices, just a dash of white pepper added to this olfactory menu. Hints of white musks come and go throughout the latter stages.
I get strong sillage, excellent projection and a brilliant longevity - fourteen hours on my skin.
One of the convincing myrrhe creations, more concentrated than, for instance, Annick Goutal's Myrrhe Ardente, this is a spring creation made of high-quality ingredients and very well blended whilst being a performance powerhouse on me. Maybe a bit lacking in complexity towards the end, it is otherwise a convincing testimony to the quality of this house, whose founder died so tragically. 3.75/5
Genre: leather, smoky-incensey leather. Nobile 1942 Rudis opens powerfully (and vaguely medicinal) with a stout/strong campfire-like accord of smoke (smoky frankincense), rubber-mastic, woody resins and leather, overall in a way like ideally combining in one single assertive potion scents a la Santa Maria Novella Nostalgia, Les Nombres d'Or Cuir by Mona di Orio, Pekji Cuir6, Profumum Roma Arso, Sonoma Scent Studio Fireside Intense (the latter being more oriented on the woody-animalic side), Le Labo Oud 27 and Tauer Lonestar Menories. The leather's touch seems by soon smooth, spicy, suedish and dry with notable hints of "ash/tray-like" rubber. I surely detect dry spices (mostly clove and pepper), patchouli and probably (along the way) hints of rose but honestly is out of me "isolating" all the rest (dried fruits, vetiver, further florals?). Anyway I don't catch any luxurious (and almost culinary) burnt sugary-figgy-boozy-green aromatic vibe a la Histoires de Parfums 1740 (a far superior juice). Smokiness goes gradually fading (but never disappearing) and all the rest is a pale (really vain) and "neutral" dry smoky (ash-tray like) leather supported by burnt resins (woody resins, birch tar, hints of moss, smoky woods and frankincense). Dry down elicits a sort of vaguely viney suedish smokiness. Probably hints of balsams or myrrh provide a final whiff of powdery soapiness. Faint complexity, longevity and sillage on my skin. End of the story.
Enigma is a warm spicy floral amber over tobacco and woods perfume, composed with a familiar feel and ambience of Roja Dove masculine fragrances. Enigma consists of two distinct layers for a "wall of aroma" first wave of blending of neroli, rose, geranium, heliotrope, ginger and vanilla/ambergris that establishes a pleasant warm harmony. The base layer or second wall of aroma rolls in with a much lower register of darker density from black pepper, cardamom, patchouli, tobacco, and sandalwood. The light layer roils above the lower darker one as if two constellations slowly collide merging through an accommodating bridge made of a warm cognac note. This is a very distinguished arrangement of notes and is one of the finer Dove fragrances. You will find no oud or leather here, a rare omission from Roja's palette but the tobacco and patchouli base makes up for whatever might be missing. This one is not my favorite from Roja Dove, but I can easily see why it is a favorite for many.
Although I have not experienced the original this is an exceptional fragrance. As far as comparisons this is a smoother vetiver than say Encre Noire for sure. I do like this a tad bit more than Encre and would say this is a smoother scent and is overall well rounded from start to finish. For the price and quality it is a blind buy for any fan of vetiver. Enjoy!
Roja's Amber Aoud is smoothe amber. Extremely easy to wear due to the uplifting rose accord and hauntingly mesmerizing from the light persistent oud. As in all Roja Dove scents there are many assistant notes but these are mostly disappearing compliments to each other. There is Ylang, jasmine, cinnamon, sandalwood, a light ethereal oud of anonymous origin. The fragrance is smoothe and amazingly non cloying for an amber scent. I think it's the rose that punctuates the separateness of quality of this exceptional amber fragrance. This is excellence in rose • amber • oud.
The opening is a sheer delight: a mandarine-citrus combined with the herbal myrrhe aroma and a floral undertone of lotus and whiffs of magnolia - beautifully balanced and resulting in an original mixture, which combines citrus with herbal and floral lines.
In the drydown amber comes to the fore. A pleasant and soft ambery impression together with a light powdery note develops, which, together with an aldehydic undertone, remains present like an overarching veil cast over the main olfactory stage for most of this composition's development. A light sandalwood, at times displaying a honeyed raisinous sweetness, is counterbalanced by a more traditional jasmine.
The later stages keep the amber, and white musk with gentle spices are added and gradually fade towards the latter phases, with the powdery theme continuing until the end.
I get moderate silage, excellent projection and ten hours of longevity.
Beautifully blended and creatively composed, with only the base being a bit linear, this scent is well suitable for spring and autumn, and makes an especially good evening scent that works also for the day. 3.75/5
I give this a neutral due to the lack of longevity and projection. It is synthetic but isn't that bad. Nice for an after the gym spritz. For the price it is ok.
Very synthetic. Extremely spicy and harsh. IMO this is not worth the money even at its current price. Avoid.
Nothing to add for or against this fragrance. When I had it I thought it was nice and very wearable. I don't think I would care for it much now. It's still available for a great price. For me it's a neutral. It's just a dated.