Fragrance Reviews from April 2008

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    pasha's avatar

    United States United States

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    Voile de Fleur by Tom Ford

    Like many other people, I love Black Orchid. I am a guy, and I am using it with great pleasure. It is a unique scent I consider, so when I learned that there was gonna be a second edition of the gorgeous scent, I got very excited. Black Orchid is so heavy, which is something I am in love with, yet I had always expected a lighter version to be created, to reach to even bigger masses, and turn in profit. Yet I was scared that it was gonna be some crappy watered down summer edition, which would strip it from its soul and make it another sweet fruity/citrusy summer edition.

    I am very pleased to say, Black Orchid Voile de Fleur is not that edition. It is super creamy, enriched with a heavy dose of milk and white flowers like gardenia, jasmine, or Casablanca lilies I think they are. This is strictly feminine. Patchouli seems to be much less in this edition, yet it keeps the dark sweetness of the original scent to the core. Kind of reminds me a much thicker Gucci Envy, with a foundation of very dark notes which still includes a healthy dose of Vanilla. In many ways, it is very different from Black Orchid, even though they are definite sisters. I think Tom Ford could have released this scent as something totally separate from Black Orchid with maybe in a white bottle or something. It is not a silly sidebar 'limited' edition to me. It is just as potent, unique and magical as Black Orchid.

    It should have perhaps been called 'White Orchid' because of its heavy white floral notes. As a guy, it is impossible to find a good scent with these notes, which are being rightfully seen as very very feminine: at the top of the pyramid of feminine scents I think. Yet, I love these smells: they remind me of my childhood in a way. Make no mistake, this fragrance is not as innocent as a 'childhood smell' though -it is indescribably sexy once again- yet it is a little more familiar than Black Orchid.




    EDIT: It has been discontinued.

    HUGE MISTAKE, Mr. Ford or whoever that controls his perfume business. Huge mistake. This could have easily been a future classic if it were given a chance beyond the temporary flanker treatment.


    28th April, 2008 (Last Edited: 04th August, 2011)

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Eloge du Traitre by Etat Libre d'Orange

    Revised and downgraded my earlier review.
    I feel that the scent has good ingredients and potential, but is not well designed. It is a powerhouse but lacks finesse and clarity.
    It starts with very good conifer and bay notes. These are all too brief, quickly swallowed up by a very assertive clove and leather chord. BAM! We are back to the 80's. Floral notes are completely lost in this heavy hammer. When things settle down, there is a predictable patchouli - leather - musk base. The patchouli is tangy and a bit metallic, as it often is in this sort of scent.
    The middle is not for the faint of heart, and not to my liking. When things settle down, the scent is OK in the cool weather.

    28th April, 2008 (Last Edited: 11th September, 2014)

    ComDiva's avatar

    United States United States

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    Carceri D'Invenzione by Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab

    Notes include: Redwood, red sandalwood, black pepper, blonde tobacco and frankincense. Elegant, mysterious and with a touch of hopelessness. Love this stuff!

    29th April, 2008

    JaimeB's avatar

    United States United States

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    Number 3 / Le 3me Homme / The Third Man by Caron

    A fougère with some chypré overtones. At times I think this is understated; at others, simply well-mannered. Definitely not loud. The only thing it reeks of is elegance. The fruit is there to enrich the other notes, but it's the aromatic nature of Le 3ème Homme that dominates. Lavender, rosemary and clary sage are the main players in that aspect of it. Clary sage in particular is the soft muscatel note which gives this its distinct character. Very good for daytime and casual wear, but also very much suited to the office.

    29th April, 2008

    JaimeB's avatar

    United States United States

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    Sultan Safran / Safranier by Comptoir Sud Pacifique

    I happen to like saffron, so I guess I'm predisposed to a favorable review of Safranier. The top is nice, citrusy and green; then the saffron, flowers and sweet spices declare this to be an unabashed oriental. The woody musk drydown is the perfect grounding for the other notes.

    This is rather sweet and spicy, but not overly floral, in spite of the heart notes. It's soft and quietly elegant. The only drawback is that it doesn't develop a lot of sillage on me, and it becomes more muted as it progresses. Still, all in all, it's quite a good scent.

    29th April, 2008

    JaimeB's avatar

    United States United States

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    Cédre by 06130 Zéro Six Cent-Trente

    Spicy-woody cedar that is nice for casual wear. The top is classic, and the spice touches to the heart note are a very good complement to the main notes.

    Sillage is very moderate, and longevity is about average. The only bad thing I can say about this is that it's too comfortable to really grab you. It loses some points in my book for that.

    29th April, 2008

    JaimeB's avatar

    United States United States

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    Déclaration Eau Genereuse by Cartier

    This is my favorite version of Déclaration. I think the appeal is that the basic Déclaration idea is translated into an Eau-de-cologne style. The re-balanced citrus and green notes in the top take some of the bitter birch tar edge off the basic fragrance and enliven it just enough to make it a good warn-weather wear. The trouble is that it's nearly impossible to find; but the trade-off is that the bottle I have is huge! Jean-Claude Ellena has done a great job on this one!

    I find this version of Déclaration very energizing and invigorating. It hangs around just enough, with good sillage, but it's not a one-two punch. With warm weather approaching, I find myself looking forward to the treat of wearing this again.

    29th April, 2008 (Last Edited: 01st May, 2008)

    JaimeB's avatar

    United States United States

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    Quand Vient La Pluie by Guerlain

    The heliotrope and violet in this definitely recall Après l'Ondée, the centenarian classic from the redoubtable House of Guerlain. It is a somewhat fleeting impression, an allusion to the former masterpiece, a point of departure, if you will, into the modern tribute offering that QVlaP seems to be.

    And this does stand up very well on its own, with a base note of sweet praline and musk, ever so slightly powdery. The rosemary in the top is a departure from the original, too. This is an inspired move, bringing a needed touch of green to the neroli note. The heliotrope-violet combination seems to be subtly transformed as well, either by an undeclared note, by the interaction of some of the newer notes, or by the suppression of the blackcurrant note from Al'O. Perhaps it is just that they brought up the heliotrope from the base notes into the heart. The deletion of benzoin from Al'O does reduce the powderiness a bit as well. Eliminating the orris root certainly further reinforces this change away from powder.

    Fresh, and perhaps slightly more penetrating that Al'O. QVlaP is at once sexier and shyer. A different consciousness for a different age.

    Does this surpass, negate, supersede Al'O? Oh, no... that would be impossible. No one can erase a high-water mark like that! Also, on its own, it isn't really in competition with its inspiration. It just uses some of the same words to say something new. That was then (bow low!); this is now!

    Top note: Bergamot, Rosemary, Orange Blossom
    Middle note: Heliotrope, Violet, Jasmine
    Base note: Patchouli, Praline, Musks

    29th April, 2008

    JaimeB's avatar

    United States United States

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    L'Ame d'un Héros by Guerlain

    Billed as a re-release, this is very close to the notes in its declared original, Coriolan. For that it deserves high marks. To my nose, however, the overall effect is somewhat diluted from the earlier classic. Some people thought, of course, that Coriolan was rather too brash. It certainly wasn't shy.

    This is a very good fragrance on its own. Even as a successor to Coriolan, it's quite good, considering what other houses do to reformulate their classics without even having the grace to rename them. I would say get the original if you can still find a decent bottle. This one is close enough that you don't really need both. Still, you may want to have it around if and when Coriolan approaches its final disappearance and becomes impossible to get. It will definitely remind you of what you'll be missing.

    29th April, 2008

    JaimeB's avatar

    United States United States

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    Sycomore (new) by Chanel

    Sycomore is a woody, rooty scent at first. It then develops a smoky impression, which persists on my skin for a fair bit. Then comes the chypre top, neroli and bergamot, and slowly the heart-note florals, three of the usual suspects — rose, jasmine and ylang-ylang — with the less customary honeysuckle. Woody, musky notes in the base have already made an early appearance in that opening woods-and smoke accord, but they persist quietly, with the florals, especially the neroli and honeysuckle-laced heart notes keeping the lead.

    For me, this is a shared scent. As a chypre, it hovers in the middle ground between the old feminine and masculine styles. The smoky woods and the slight greenness of the honeysuckle, together with tobacco and cedar in the base help keep it ambiguous within the old scheme.

    This is perhaps a bit understated. It doesn't develop a massive sillage on my skin, but it is noticeable if one gets close enough to converse. It's worthy of Polge and Sheldrake, I think.

    What's the overall impression? You meet someone who's a little rough around the edges, and in hanging with him, you discover progressively that he's a sweet and tender guy. He's surprisingly capable of a lot of feeling. He's not at all coy, but his innate shyness still reserves a little corner of private mystery.

    Top notes: Bergamot, Neroli
    Heart notes: Ylang-ylang, Rose, Jasmine, Honeysuckle
    Bottom notes: Cedar, Violet, Tobacco, Sandalwood, Musk

    29th April, 2008

    Ken_Russell's avatar

    Romania Romania

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    Armani Attitude by Giorgio Armani

    At first, I expected a commonplace scent like many designer houses developed just for the sake of profit during the past years, something that doesn't change much about a market segment already owerflown with teeny creations of amss-market appeal ( even in the designer sector ) and a serious deficiency for exclusive, artistic or schock-value creation. So, the fact that Attitude stands out a bit- but not at a spectacular or ground-breaking level - from current genericness came as a surprise to me. On my skin at least it smells above average good and above average long lasting, yet I miss that certain ineffable extra to turn it into a pure masterpiece. I guess the closest definition of this fragrance would be a contemporary gourmand scent with dark Mediterranean notes as an undertone to the vast majority of edible ones, targeted at young urban adults and with an wearability somewhere halfway trough designer, high-class casual and relaxed, "classic with a twist formal wear". I actually love about this scent some outstanding notes, but the combination/overall impression make me give a neutral rating only. That dark Mediterranean style is one of this fragrances achievements- it's like the usual herbal recipe was reshaped, restyled in a more bad-boy, a more edgy and mysterious way, with more depth and strenght. Unfortuntely, there is also a fugdy, coffe-like bitter sweetness that counterbalances this otherwise flawless spicyness ( which would otherwise remind me of two of my favourites: Versace l'Homme and Esencia Loewe, if this one was less powdery and more classic, aromatic and resinous like these two ). This very coffee note makes it all a bit too powdery for my taste, but maybe a new reapplication ( and subsequent reevalution ) would take out the scorching dryness- which is by no means warm or sensual- of this one and leave me more romm to concentrate on the very notes which, taken separately, would have generated an indisputable milestone of perfection. At least the bottle has "attitude" rather than mass-market appeal
    ( because ironically today's fashion, whcih also applies to perfume equates attitude not with creativity, indvidual freedom, uniqueness, strong personality but rather conformism, unpretentiousness, familiarity inadequately, but smilingly and cunnigly sold as the former values ), reminding marginally of some hints of Art Deco in combination with some limited edition of a Zippo.

    29th April, 2008

    marco's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Muschio di Quercia / Oak Moss by AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo

    A perfume for the country and the wilderness. Cost and regulations built on exaggerated fear of allergic reactions have curbed true oakmoss content in most commercial perfumes. Well, this one is there to compensate; it must be 3/4 oakmoss or something like that. Powerful and impressive; at the same time, classic enough to be wearable anywhere - I wear it to the office. My wife who is usually for very discreet perfumes likes this one, although very strong (one or 2 spritzes will do). Very long-lasting. It can be overlayed with other scents (for instance "Tabac" from the same house) to make them longer-lasting and fuller-bodied. I use it very often (without any allergy).

    29th April, 2008

    marco's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Tabac by AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo

    Tabac smells of burning, pipe tobacco: slightly sweet but obviously masculine; ample and rich. It's not just a fragrance with some tobacco component, it's really true to tobacco with some ciste and maybe other herbs just like pipe tobacco. It's the pleasure of tobacco without the smoking... One of my favorutes, I wear it very often. Duration is medium on me.

    29th April, 2008

    ubuandibeme's avatar

    United States United States

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    Tocade by Rochas

    Maurice Roucel is an outstanding perfumer, Tocade is excellent in composition. It is an oriental, with a powdery/vanilla kick. The notes are smoothly orchestrated. For a powdery vanilla, I find my taste runs more in the direction of Kenzo Amour. It is brighter in it's overall character...Tocade has more warmth, and would be better suited to a cool climate.

    29th April, 2008

    zztopp's avatar

    United States United States

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    Fleur du Male by Jean Paul Gaultier

    top notes: Petitgrain
    Heart notes: Orange Blossom, Fern Accord
    base note: Coumarin

    I missed all the furore that followed the launch of Le Male and didn't really get the snarky sailor ads and that striped torso bottle. Having spent time playing (pun intended) with the Fleur du Male (FdM) bottle for the past couple of weeks, I can say without hesitation that the bottle is one of the oddest things I have felt up. A headless pale-white colored stud of a man with a prominent bulge and rounded buttocks, my little nephew who has quite a collection of Pokeman, Takara Transformers and other assorted figurines had a puzzled look on his face when I handed him the bottle. Apparently it appeals to neither of us, and it should be as well..its whats inside that counts. Does FdM sell poorly in the red states?

    I don't understand all these "its too feminine for me!" comments here regarding FdM. A little insecure are we? FdM isn't half as sweet or floral as some of the more disingenious men's juices out there. Opening with a burst of well rendered and juicy neroli, perhaps because of budget limitations, composer Kurkdjian instills a woody petitgrain facet almost immediately ...this makes the opening more woody, and ironically, more masculine. The woodier aspect grows and growns before it touches base with the oh-so-familiar-but-so-sexy smooth vanillic coumarin and fern accord. Wheres the middle notes phase? Dont know...FdM skips the dinner and heads straight for third base. This signature le male accord is also more well behaved and less ravaging in this incarnation. While FdM appears to be more presentable and wearable, it comes off as less complex than le Male, with fewer notes bouncing off each other and less dynamic movement between the notes phases.

    Le Male's signature accord was always a hit with the women and now FdM adds a very pleasing (also to women!) woody-neroli top note to this base. There are 15-17 year olds who complain about FdM not being manly enough for them (and these are the same hormonal teens who spend weeks growing a decent moustache amidst a plethora of facial pimples to get a date). Little do these hormonal teens know that the neroli top married to the le Male base works magic on women. Le Male, and now FdM are also (apparently) big in gay circles. Hundreds of years ago, neroli essential oil was used by Kings as an invigorating and relaxing tonic; now queens can join in the fun as well!

    Rating: 7.5/10

    29th April, 2008

    Strollyourlobster's avatar

    United States United States

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    Santal Noble by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

    Santal Noble opens with a transporting orange blossom accord and quickly settles down into a luxurious sandalwood and spices affair with the olfactory texture of heavy cream. If Tam Dao is a single bamboo flute then Santal Noble is Morricone's opening theme to The Mission floating from an oboe backed by chorus and orchestra. I love this stuff.

    29th April, 2008

    milanolover's avatar

    Germany Germany

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    parfums*PARFUMS Series 3 Incense: Kyoto by Comme des Garçons

    Superiour scent! But very very similar to Esteban teak and tonka and Armani Privé Bois de Incencse.

    MN

    29th April, 2008

    Andrewthecologneguy's avatar

    Nigeria Nigeria

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    Latitude Longitude by Nautica

    A modern interpretation of the classic Safari by Raph Lauren...at least in the opening and first few transitions. it becomes gradually sweet, then salty as some reviewers mentioned, an oceany feel that balances quite well with the sweetness. Theere is also a white skin musk that shows up as the scent approaches its dry down. At this point, I get the impression that this is an old school (80s) scent disguising as a younger brighter fragrance. Overall, its not bad, I think it is best suited for sunny days outdoors. The sillage and projection are a bit above average. Nice sweet and salty fragrance.

    29th April, 2008

    scentsitivity's avatar

    United States United States

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    Original Vetiver by Creed

    I first tried OV in 2007 and sampled it at least a half dozen times before the end of summer. I felt displeased with it, but I felt more puzzled than capable of stating any reason for my displeasure. I put it aside for many months and recently retested it. My experience is much more positive now than it was and I appreciate the deep green scent, the soapy feeling OV gives, as well as great lasting power (12+ hours on me). Masculine and devoid of sweetness. I learned something valuable here: if one cannot determine why a fragrance is unsatisfactory to them, perhaps it is better to put it aside for awhile and reassess it again (I had a similar experience with Terre d’Hermes): the conclusions may be refined or change altogether. In retrospect, I think my dissatisfaction with OV was because it was unfamiliar and different than anything I had previously worn. While I doubt I would ever wear OV enough to justify a purchase, I do think it is well made and worthy of consideration.

    29th April, 2008

    fusion's avatar

    United States United States

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    Burberry Summer for Men by Burberry

    A wonderful scent from beginning to end a must try the best of all the summer offerings thumbs up way up.

    29th April, 2008 (Last Edited: 09th July, 2009)

    Stereotomy's avatar

    Netherlands Netherlands

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    Terre d'Hermès by Hermès

    I didn't 'get' this fragrance when I tested it in the store. I thought it was a simple, harsh and linear citrus scent.

    However, I bought a small tester and I changed my mind completely. This fragrance is stunning. It opens with a crashing burnt sugar, caramelized smell not very unlike A*Men.

    However, quickly after that, it settles into a very classy, self-confident orange/citrus-note, embedded in an aura of cedarwood. And this smell pretty much stays throughout the heart of the scent.

    The basenotes remind me of a civilized Eau Sauvage from Dior. Very classy.

    I like this scent.

    29th April, 2008

    In-sense's avatar

    Brazil Brazil

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    Clipping by O Boticário

    It's an odd fragrance, the top notes struggle themselves and are hedache indulcing, for me at least. Otherwise I must say that after they dissapear the drydown is quite pleasant where i can notice a hint of vanilla over the tobacco notes. If it wasn't for the openning I'd sport it.

    29th April, 2008

    HDS1963's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    L'Occitan by L'Occitane

    I have grown to absolutely love this fragrance. Since I bought it I have put it on when I am not going anywhere, just to enjoy it.

    I've always enjoyed spicy, peppery openings, which is why one of my very early loves was Cacharel Pour Homme. This shares that blast of peppery fanfare and grabs the attention. And then like a dying fall in a musical phrase, the sweetness of the anise and cinnamon carress and sooth the savage breast.

    But the headline grabber which is there throughout is the lavender, which is exquisite and it lasts and lasts and lasts all the way to the dry down. It is sweet and earthy at the same time - and highly addictive to sniff. Put some on your wrist or on the back of the hand (as I do) and you'll find yourself with your hand to your nose time and time again as you catch a whiff of this lovely fragrance.

    Sillage and longevity are good to. It's not a sillage monster by any means but it does project and people do notice. It probably lasts four to five hours on me - but who cares, I get to reapply it and enjoy it all over again.

    It is reasonably priced too - and much better than many fragrances twice the price. Highly recommended.

    29th April, 2008

    heythatslife's avatar

    South Korea South Korea

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    Tea for Two by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    If J-C Ellena's Eau Parfumee au The Vert is the reference clean green tea scent, then at the opposite end of the spectrum we have Tea for Two.

    Sweet, smoky, a touch spicy - deceptively simple but comforting indeed. This is what I like to wear when I've got time to relax and read a good book on my bed on spring or autumn days, drinking tea or coffee with some shortbread on the side.

    29th April, 2008

    heythatslife's avatar

    South Korea South Korea

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    Dzing! by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I don't know what to say. Even after a few wearings, I can't get used to this one, partly because the drydown turns sour on me (my skin does this to a few scents that would otherwise be perfect). It's a funky leather, verging on cardboard, with hay and a little sugar. It's like someone tried to put up a model stable with papier-mache and decided to make it smell vaguely like a zoo. Not to say that the overall effect is unpleasant, not at all.

    Certainly it's like nothing I've ever smelled so far, so points for originality - in fact, this one so came out of the blue that it's humorous, like a good joke, and it made me smile. On the right person, I can imagine it would work well.

    29th April, 2008

    heythatslife's avatar

    South Korea South Korea

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    Allure Homme Sport by Chanel

    Anything "sport" is usually not a good sign and this time it proved correct also.

    Your run-of-the-mill sport fragrance, only it's made by Chanel. Actually for its genre it's pretty good, but that means little. It lacks depth, and feels somewhat synthetic. From someone like Polge I would expect better, but obviously the only intent evident here is Chanel trying to cash in on the 18-24 market using its brand name. Oh well, I guess I'd rather have people wear this than other "sport colognes" if they must have one.

    29th April, 2008

    schumi's avatar

    Romania Romania

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    Fleur du Male by Jean Paul Gaultier

    A very light and refined fragrance. One of the most interesting male florals, it is a good choice almost anytime, anywhere. It lacks the depth and complexity of other florals, such as Ungaro III, yet I don't think it was designed to compete with them. This is easy, straight forward, with no shades at all. It was meant to be as simple as possible, yet refined enough to make a difference. It's a morale booster, a joyful scent, just like the one who wears it.

    29th April, 2008

    LuciusVorenus's avatar

    United States United States

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    Lacoste pour Homme by Lacoste

    This is an artificial, cold, weird fragrance that brings me memories of a nightmare. Do not buy this one.

    29th April, 2008

    terry81's avatar

    Singapore Singapore

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    Essential by Lacoste

    My friend and I thought that this fragrance smells like bath soap...something like FAB....however still smell nice though

    29th April, 2008

    terry81's avatar

    Singapore Singapore

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    Silver Shadow Altitude by Davidoff

    It smells like a lighter version of 'Hugo by Hugo Boss' but without the strong synthetic impression Hugo comes with.

    This is good for everyday wear. This will be my everyday perfume for now.

    29th April, 2008 (Last Edited: 13th June, 2008)

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