Fragrance Reviews from April 2008

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    sniffy's avatar



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    Unforgivable by Sean John

    I don't get the comparison to Creed's Millesime Imperial, but I do think its a very close copy to Bond No. 9's Wall Street - In fact, I am sure that the creator had WS in mind. I think that the difference lies in that the ingresients used in WS are of a higher quality and have much greater staying power. But Unforgivable is a decent alternative if you cannot shell out the $$ for Wall Street.

    On another note, I am reminded of the original D&G when I smell Creed's MI. D&G is a bit harsher, whereas MI has a more smooth, mellow basenote. Eventually, after the dry-down, they smell very much alike.

    05 April, 2008

    sniffy's avatar



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    Sécrétions Magnifiques by Etat Libre d'Orange

    I get that this is supposed to be a sexually-charged scent, full of shock-value, etc., like the scent of a french prostitute on her balcony overlooking all of Paris at dusk. What it really smells like is an old homeless unwashed crack whore on the streets of the Bronx. I "get" that its not supposed to smell traditionally beautiful, but I couldn't wait to wash my arm where I had sprayed with the tester. The smell made me want to vomit. I think I also detected a vomit note mixed in there somewhere. This reminds me of one of those films where the shock value is so over-emphasized, that there is nothing else redeeming to it - all hype and no substance.

    05 April, 2008

    tvlampboy's avatar

    United States United States

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    Adolfo for Men by Frances Denney

    Big oily eighties monster -- very green at first, but dry and woodsy later on.

    I can't say that I remember it terribly fondly, no, but I certainly can't say that it was crap, either. My dad used to wear this one from time to time, and I remember it as one of many loud, brash Eighties frags, some of which were fabu, some of which were just OK (like Adolfo) and some of which were, well, you get the picture.

    05 April, 2008

    TaoLady's avatar

    United States United States

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    Central Park by Bond No. 9

    LUVLUVLUV this fresh green scent and am eagerly awaiting warmer weather to luxuriate in it. The verbena appears immediately on my bod - is light and lifting and the basil gives it a verdant airiness. There's lingering whisper of jasmine and - surprise! - the barest hint of cedar over a slightly sexy muskiness.

    The combo really reminds me more of the first whiff of Bermuda air rather than Central Park (I'm a Real New Yorker and to me Central Park will always be a combo of leather and crushed greens, forsythia and fresh horse manure!!)

    05 April, 2008

    Strollyourlobster's avatar

    United States United States

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    No. 88 by Czech & Speake

    A friend recently brought back a bag full of resins and essentials oils and incense and what-not gathered from various spice markets during a trip through India and Nepal. We spent a delightful coffee-buzzed afternoon smelling the resins in particular, both raw and burning, and weaving around free associating about the smells. And there was a wonderful moment when, upon sticking my nose into a bag of what he thought was frankincense, I got the most direct impression of Czech &Speake No. 88.
    Which I have never loved--always liked but not loved. Too big, extroverted, complex, maybe. And then suddenly I felt as though I understood where to fix my attention when listening to this complicated fragrance. The most bouyant, exuberant note, the one that is most prominent from opening to drydown, is the liquid, dry earth and flowers of raw frankincense. Or whatever was in that little bag, at any rate. There's a lot going on in No. 88: the rose is quiet and wonderful, the green in the topnotes is pure spring morning. But to me, even waking up this morning to the drydown clinging pleasantly to my t-shirt, it is a scent about temples

    05 April, 2008

    Strollyourlobster's avatar

    United States United States

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    L'Homme Sage by Divine

    When I wear L'Homme Sage to work it irritates me a bit, it's out of place. Or reminds me that I am, perhaps. This is a fragrance for quiet days, to be worn in quiet amounts. Yann Vasnier, the nose behind this creation, here balances anise beautifully with spice, herbs and incense. Think Parfum Sacre meets Rive Gauche Pour Homme, but less sweet than the former and more about the natural world than the latter. If you want to enjoy Azzaro Pour Homme but find it too unidimensional, you might love this.

    05 April, 2008 (Last Edited: 28 April, 2008)

    Andrewthecologneguy's avatar

    Nigeria Nigeria

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    Purple Label by Ralph Lauren

    Ginger and spices done very well.

    Am I the only one who has made the connection between Purple Label and Romance Silver? It is the same scent with R Silver being considerably more harsh in the opening (heavy citrus). I find it very interesting that both were released in 2003...and that PL was a limited release. It's like the kind of man PL is supposed to appeal to will never think of buying the more mainstream 'department store' R Silver. Such a man is more sophisticated, cares for RL's 'Purple Label' clothing line...which explains its subtlety: flamboyance is certainly not sophisticated.
    So, my conclusion is RL cheated by releasing the same scent in the same year with not enough differences. But hey, Cadillacs are just spruced up Chevys, much like Lincolns are just spiced up Fords...so why not?

    05 April, 2008

    Andrewthecologneguy's avatar

    Nigeria Nigeria

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    Escada Moon Sparkle for Men by Escada

    I had high hopes for this...unfortunately it is pointless. The name is appropriate...I don't know what the moon smells like, but this does a good job of feeding the immagination. It is not sweet, not green, not spicy, not dark, not sensuous, not incensy, not anything, just very grey. I couldn't even get past the first whiff! It is already a flop in europe...

    05 April, 2008

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    L'Eau de Gouverneur / L'Homme by Comptoir Sud Pacifique

    Fragrance notes
    Top: verbena, bergamot, lemon
    Mid: clary sage, nutmeg, pepper, clove
    Base: cedar, vetiver, tonka, musk
    L’Homme by Comptoir Sud Pacifique has a lovely citrusy-aromatic opening. The verbena is well done, with its typical lemon-basil-baked bread notes. This gives a nice transition to the green spice middle, which is an appealing concoction of dusky clary sage and peppery spices. The clove is prominent and gives a brisk and assertive character. L’Homme winds up being as an excellent vetiver/spice/wood scent. Every element develops and interacts in a very satisfying manner. A warming cool-weather scent.

    05 April, 2008

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Eau d'Orange Verte by Hermès

    Eau d’Orange Verte is marvelous. It has a beautiful, even ‘yummy’ lemon-orange opening. It is crisp, fruity, tasty, invigorating, and refreshingly acidic. The citrus mellows with the floral and green tones which follow. It drys into a lovely light moss, with mint and bergamot. There is also a light wood tone with a hint of patchouli. There is also some kind of very tangy green note in the dry-down that I can’t identify. It may be due to the patchouli/moss interaction. It is something like celery leaves: a nutty-sweet aspect, slightly tangy. Eau d’Orange Verte is not as herbal or complex as Eau de Rochas pour Homme or O de Lancome pour Homme, which are other citrus-chypres. But it is much greener and crisper than Concentrée d’Orange Verte.

    05 April, 2008

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Spazio Krizia Uomo by Krizia

    Spazio Krizia Uomo is a strange, sweet, rather ‘precious’ scent. It is quite powdery, with vanilla and musky notes. NN is correct in comparing it to Moustache and Etiquette Bleu, odd scents all. Not something I’d wear. Not a masculine scent, and I can’t even imagine liking it on a woman. Deservedly obscure, in my opinion.

    05 April, 2008

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Van Cleef & Arpels pour Homme by Van Cleef & Arpels

    It took a while, but I came to appreciate VC&A’s Pour Homme. Before trying it, I knew it was a brown-hued powerhouse from the late 70’s. I wondered if it would be too strong or rich for me, and in its middle phase it does get pretty big! In the end, it is a lovely scent and I endorse it fully. It has an excellent green herbal opening, one which I enjoy. The middle is spicy and powerful, with rich patchouli. The wood notes are (to my taste) quite subdued. In the initial phase of the base, the scent is leathery. The castoreum adds a spicy oriental note. This is the love-it-or leave-it phase. But phase two of the base is where it all comes to rest, and delightfully so. Ultimately it becomes a gentle, mossy scent. It retains lovely notes of leather, with spices, amber and musk. If applied with a light hand, and with patience, we find something that is very attractive, very romantic, a quiet charmer.

    05 April, 2008

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Vetiver Oriental by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Luten’s Vetiver Oriental is a lovely, velvety scent; it is vetiver with all the edges smoothed and polished. And therein is its strength or weakness, depending on your perspective. I like a vetiver that is a little leaner and edgier than this. I appreciate the beautiful rich notes here but they don’t quite suit me. I find that the benzoin lends its usual vanilla-balsamic notes and they are the deal-breaker. There are hints of wonderful woods but they are not developed to my satisfaction. For me, this scent is the usual case of, “I’d rather meet the woman wearing it than wear it myself.”

    05 April, 2008

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Yerbamate by Lorenzo Villoresi

    Baby power and sweet hay – that’s what Yerbamate by Villoresi is for me. I don’t find it to be complex, dry, smoky or woody; or even very green. I do find it very sweet and ambery. Ayala captures it so well, I’ll quote her: “heaps of dried hay and powdery coumarin... extreme indulgence in powdery ambery feathery fluff bordering on the dessert kind.” Exactly. I washed this off. Villoresi can make superb fragrances, I love Uomo. That is excellent!

    05 April, 2008

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Nicolaï pour Homme by Nicolaï

    Fragrance notes: mint, galbanum, lavender, jasmine, spruce, cedar, geranium, tobacco moss, amber benzoin, labdanum
    Nicolai pour Homme has two contradictory phases. I tried it for the first phase, and for an all-too-brief period the icy mint and spicy galbanum were interesting. Then NpH does a 180-degree turn and warms up too much! There are very, very ambery tones: balsam, vanilla, coconut, leather, butter. The amber, labdanum and benzoin make an ambery brew that is ponderously rich. Not woody enough to interest me, too sweet, not my style at all. A disappointment.

    05 April, 2008

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Gramercy Park by Bond No. 9

    I can see why people like Gramercy Park. It is a lovely, spring-like green scent. Although it has different fragrance elements from Mugler Cologne, it evokes a similar happy mood in me. The green-leaf aspect is amazing: it is very crisp, cheery and distinctive. Gradually, very light wood tones infuse and mingle with the green notes. This is a very interesting, sheer scent. I think of a stained-glass window, with translucent shades of white, light green and light brown... and the sun shining brightly through them all. Somewhere outside, a bird is singing.

    05 April, 2008

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    1828 by Histoires de Parfums

    Fragrance notes
    Top: grapefruit, Italian lemon, mandarin orange, Brazilian lime, mint, eucalyptus
    Mid: clove, nutmeg, black pepper
    Base: Atlas cedar, patchouli, Siberian pine, vetiver, incense, amber, white musk
    I wanted to try 1828 when I read the ingredient list, which I think sounds marvelous! Having tried it, I’d say that this is a good but not great scent. I feel it doesn’t live up to its woody/pine potential. The opening is very good: it is green, aromatic, refreshing. The citrus blends well with the mint and eucalyptus, and the latter is refined and not like Vicks. The middle is an adequate expression of peppery spice. There is very little pine or wood, which I find disappointing given that the ingredients are ‘named’ (e.g., Atlas cedar, Siberian pine). Instead of interesting woods the base quickly becomes a patchouli-amber blend that at times reminds me of coconut. The wood could be woodier, the vetiver and incense could have much more character. The base gets more ambery for a while and then finally and pleasantly settles down. Don’t over-apply 1828 based on its light top notes, you’ll regret it! This is an OK scent, I like it but am not raving about it. Histoires de Parfums has a line of scents named after the birth years of French authors. 1828 refers to the year Jules Verne was born. Other masculine fragrances are 1725 (Casanova) and 1740 (Marquis de Sade!).

    05 April, 2008

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Concentré D'Orange Verte by Hermès

    Concentrée d’Orange Verte has a heavier, darker opening than Eau d’Orange Verte. It is mellow, and not as green/leafy. It has an elusive, restrained, even enigmatic quality in comparison to its more up-front sibling. It sits closer to the skin. It is woodier, and the soft florals make it a bit more classy and refined. Based on reviews below I was not prepared to like it... but I find that I do! I like green scents so I really enjoy the basic Eau d’Orange. But the concentrated version is a successful scent in its own right. At times it reminds me of Roger & Gallet’s Extra Vielle.

    05 April, 2008

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Chêne by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    I see why there are so many favorable reviews for Chene. It truly is a wood-lover’s dream come true. The birch and cedar are dry and aromatic, very accurate and completely satisfying. This is an exceptionally well-designed scent. The rich elements (tonka, rum, beeswax) support and enhance the wood, rather than compete with it. I’m usually wary of vanilla, but those notes from the tonka bean are just right here. The dry-down develops lovely herbaceous notes and is very complex and subtle, with a distinctive beauty. The thyme is very mellow, not at all like salad dressing. (I’m thinking of the thyme in Baïme, which in my opinion detracts from the other elements.) This has great staying power. If you like wood, seek this one out... you won’t be disappointed. The wood, earth and herbs evoke a mood of contemplative contentment.

    05 April, 2008

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Oliban by Keiko Mecheri

    Oliban has three phases. The first is amazingly good, the second is OK, and I don’t care for the third. We start with a frankincense/cedar opening. It is deep, dark, woody, and very impressive. Excellent! This changes into a tangy tobacco/rose chord. Smells like a tin of pipe tobacco... charming in its own way. The third phase is a powdery, vanilla amber note which grows with the passage of time. Here’s the thumb goes sideways. I just don’t like that aspect. That’s why I prefer a leaner, more austere incense scent like Bois D’Encens or Bois D’Orage or some of the Comme des Garçons line. I’d characterize Oliban as being in the style of old-school late ‘70s male powerhouse scents: dark, rich, assertive.

    05 April, 2008

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Fresco di Vetiver by I Profumi di Firenze

    Fragrance notes: sicilian lemon, spice, vetiver from Java
    There is lovely lemon and spice here, combining in a warm accord. The vetiver is a bit sharp but is attractive, refreshing, woody. There is also a green-leaf aromatic note. So far this is a refreshing summery scent, substantial but not heavy. Gradually the lemon burns off and the vetiver becomes more focused. The scent settles into a good vetiver, not heavy and soapy. Linear and straightforward, but pleasing.

    05 April, 2008 (Last Edited: 08 April, 2008)

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Ayalitta by Ayala Moriel

    Notes: clary sage, galbanum, labdanum, neroli, oakmoss, patchouli, rose otto, sage
    Ayalitta is another charming scent from the Ayala Moriel line. I think that Ayala really has a knack for designing brilliant, distinctive and very classy green scents (others being Rainforest and Bois D’Hiver). Ayalitta is one of the loveliest chypres I know, it is just delightful! The galbanum and labdanum are vibrant without being overwhelming. The dusky clary sage adds a further green note. All these green notes are very enjoyable and true. They are softened wonderfully by the florals, yet the scent remains dry enough for this man to wear with great pleasure. It is a mellow and appealing scent. The drydown is a mossy treat. Ok thumbs... start pointing upward!

    05 April, 2008

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Chypre Rouge by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Luten’s Chypre Rouge certain polarizes opinion! Well, this isn’t the strangest fragrance I’ve smelled, and I certainly don’t get the ‘red jello effect’! It has a very sweet, honeyed opening that is perfumey and rich. It changes a bit, and some herbal notes and pine needles peek out. This is a complex scent, and hard to get a handle on. It gets a bit woodier, but remains sweet and fragrant. I don’t find this to be an obnoxious scent at all. Indeed, there is much to appreciate: the herbal notes interact well with the various mosses. It is just too sweet for me, that’s all. And the vanilla notes in the dry-down are the usual deal-breaker.

    05 April, 2008

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Fougère Bengale by Parfum d'Empire

    Fougere Bengale by Parfum d’Empire is a big, dramatic scent in the style of Eau des Iles. It has a very aromatic opening that is intriguing, deep and likeable. There is lavender and a bit of roasted coffee. Despite notes I’ve read here and elsewhere this is not a really foody/gourmand scent, in my opinion. Then leathery, animalic notes (probably from an unnamed synthetic) contribute a slightly wild, savage note which has good staying power. There are interesting, complex spices here. They are done with a subtle hand and are not curry-ish at all. Finally, a honeyed hay-tobacco note emerges, and this too persists. A hay note is to be expected in a fougere, but this is sweeter and more substantial than usual. This is a sensual scent, suave and yet a bit dangerous. It is not quite my style (a little richer than I really like) but I have to admit it is attractive and enjoyable.

    05 April, 2008

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Private Collection - Querelle by Parfumerie Generale

    Querelle is a scent in Parfumerie General’s Private Collection. I’ve revised my review, and given it a slight downgrade. It is pretty good, but I’m not as keen on it as I was at first. Qurelle has two phases. The first is dark and spicy. It is deep, complex, quite tangy and intriguing. The dark spices and incense are a bit sweet but not problematic. Ambergris gives a balsam-vanilla note. All these rich ingredients are balanced by the tangy note from vetiver. In phase two much of the complexity burns off and what is left is a vetiver-centered scent that gets even tangier and more than a little soapy. This is in the Guerlain mode but better. I don’t like vetiver done that way, I find it too heavy and soapy. But if you like vetiver, then by all means give this a try and see what you think.

    05 April, 2008 (Last Edited: 24 May, 2008)

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Private Collection - Bois Blond by Parfumerie Generale

    Bois Blond is a scent in Parfumerie General’s Private Collection. It is a beautiful, slightly haunting scent. It starts with a very good cedar note mixed with some sweet grassy notes. There is also a sweet blond tobacco leaf note which is tangy. BB has an elusive, shifting quality that is intriguing: it is sweet and yet tangy, rich and yet dry. At times the amber notes deliver the usual vanilla-coconut tone (which is a little too rich for me), but then marvelous cedar reappears and I love it. At the end of the day there are drier cedar scents which I prefer; but I appreciate the quality, charm and artistry here.

    05 April, 2008

    nova's avatar



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    Wood & Spices by Montale

    For me it's the best of Montale so far.
    I don't care if Wood & Spices is good name or not, it dosen't matter.
    It's very sexy, and if you don't like it many will do.

    TRY IT.

    05 April, 2008

    yasarzongur's avatar

    Turkey Turkey

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    A*Men / Angel Men by Thierry Mugler

    The opening notes are a bit disturbing, but you have to be patient to discover the real gem, so the dry down is excellent and long lasting. It is much better on the skin than it is on the clothes.

    05 April, 2008 (Last Edited: 15 April, 2008)

    yasarzongur's avatar

    Turkey Turkey

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    Body Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent

    opening notes are ok but it fades away too quickly and doesn't last on my skin. Still, it is a nice fragrance.

    05 April, 2008 (Last Edited: 15 April, 2008)

    matelot's avatar

    Gibraltar Gibraltar

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    Ajaccio Violets by Geo F Trumper

    I absolutely love this green juice! Like a masculine version of Guerlains Insolence. Not too long lasting but enough to make an impression on the ladies. Had many compliments from girls on it.
    It's a chick magnet!!

    05 April, 2008

    Showing 151 to 180 of 1303.