Fragrance Reviews from May 2008

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    JaimeB's avatar

    United States United States

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    Acqua di Cuba by Santa Maria Novella

    I have smelled this, but have never given it a full wearing, so pardon me if I miss something here. I really find this very appealing at first, but in the drydown, it goes through a rough patch on my skin in which it becomes rather harsh. After that's over, however, it goes back to being quite agreeable. I wish it lasted a little longer in the top note, which I find very beautiful; but then I think this is an EdC concentration, so there's not much hope of lingering top notes! But I do like it quite a bit, so I'll give it a Thumbs Up!

    01st May, 2008

    JaimeB's avatar

    United States United States

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    Grey Flannel by Geoffrey Beene

    Dredged this up out of the distant past because I saw the review in Turin's book. It really is an extraordinary scent, and I remember that when it was introduced it was very controversial. (Am I revealing my age here?) It was a novel use of green notes in the top to overwhelm the citrus,
    and the sweet floral notes and almondy, slightly powdery drydown seemed out of character with the rest of the scent. I guess we would now say that Grey Flannel's nose, André Fromentin, was a visionary. A leap of the olfactory imagination, for sure.

    From the magnificent Estonian website parfyym.pri.ee:

    Top Notes: Galbanum, Petitgrain, Neroli, Bergamot, Lemon
    Middles Notes: Violet, Rose, Narcissus, Mimosa, Iris, Sage, Geranium
    Base Notes: Cedarwood, Vetiver, Oakmoss, Tonka bean, Almond

    This is technically a fougère, I guess, because of the oakmoss and tonka bean in the base (but without teh usual lavender), but it comes across as a wacky green floral, with the bitterness of petitgrain and galbanum playing against the sweeter middle and woody-oriental base notes. I rarely wear it, probably (to be honest) because even after all these years, it still shocks me a bit. But I've come to love the progression and the puzzling change to that soft drydown. Hooray for cognitive dissonance!

    01st May, 2008 (Last Edited: 18 August, 2009)

    oolong's avatar

    United States United States

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    Madame X by Ava Luxe

    While I've never tried it, "Madame X" is one of the few fragrances out there with the three notes Civet, Ambergris, Castoreum recommended by the 20th Centuries top occultist (Alistair Crowley) as being effective at attracting love. I've used a fragrance with that combination, Andron by Jovon, and have had extremely good luck with members of the opposite sex.

    01st May, 2008

    Perfume_Addict's avatar

    United States United States

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    Shalimar Light by Guerlain

    I've read that people who love Shalimar come in two types: those who experience it as a sultry oriental, and those whose foremost perception is the fresh and floral notes. In the original, those two characteristics were always at war for me. It's both simultaneously, as if it were a botched layering experiment. I was pleasantly surprised that Shalimar Light corrects this problem. It starts out with lemon cream and vanilla, and seems to dry down in reverse to a pretty jasmine-iris floral. After several hours, I'm left with mainly floral notes with just a hint of vanilla. If you would never wear Shalimar, you may find that you love Shalimar Light.

    01st May, 2008

    TaoLady's avatar

    United States United States

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    J'Adore by Christian Dior

    J' adore J'Adore...and I would add "flirty" to Foetidus' "fresh, floral and fruity". It's a Spring Day in a very chic countryside and the absence of any outstanding note (although I get a lot of muguet and violet - peaches and melon) accentuates it's very balanced nature. All through it's development, for me, J' Adore is feminine and alluring. One of Calice Becker's finest!!

    01st May, 2008

    zephyr16's avatar

    United States United States

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    L'Air du Desert Marocain by Tauer

    Everything written about it is true...Dry- evocative - Sensual. I got this one recently and still am learning the subtle nuances of the composition...but if you ask me to summarize it I'd say its top notes have a faint resemblance to Boucheron's Jaipur pour homme with Amber Vetiver and faint hint of Incense in base notes...The dry down is too complex to put in words...subtle smooth presence ...its a must sample and then a must buy


    another one that is a must buy from Tauer is Incense Extreme


    ..

    01st May, 2008

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Double Zéro by Galimard

    This has a nice aromatic opening of lavender, green herbs and fern notes. Then there is a tiny whiff of pine. Sandalwood emerges as the dominant element here: it gives soapy, brisk woody notes. In the drydown, the wood is supported by vetiver. This is a dry scent, competent but not distinctive. Just OK.

    01st May, 2008

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Un Jardin sur le Nil by Hermès

    This is very good for many reasons, and here is an important one: it is distinctive! If the character was obnoxious or problematic that wouldn’t be a good thing, but that is certainly not the case here. Jardin is very attractive. The opening is freshly-tart, with citrus and green fruit. This moves into an interesting floral heart that is aromatic, green, with a green-straw quality. I attribute that to the calamus, a reedy plant : this is what papyrus might smell like in a perfume. Then – very cleverly – the scent develops its sycamore note. This compliments the calamus so well! Sycamore seems birch-like to me, with a clean woodsy aspect. Together the calamus and sycamore give a quiet, haunting aspect to the green tones. This combination is striking and so might seem ‘synthetic’ to some, but I find it utterly natural and quite appealing. A minor quibble: the frankincense is very light, not a distinct element at all though perhaps a supporting one. But perhaps the strongly green and resinous notes of too much frankincense would overpower the excellent notes above. Jardin is interesting! It is not an oriental at all, as one might assume from its Egyptian connotation. It is a lovely fresh chypre, an airy green scent. Great stuff! Quite suitable for a man to wear.

    01st May, 2008

    fusion's avatar

    United States United States

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    212 Men Splash 2008 by Carolina Herrera

    This is a wonderful fragrance if you like the original then this will be perfect for you on a hot humid summer day a thumbs up I love it.

    01st May, 2008

    Mauritian's avatar

    South Africa South Africa

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    Aqua pour Homme Marine by Bulgari

    This smells more than a little similar to Davidoff's Cool Water. If you're a fan of the original Bvlgari Aqua (which I am), avoid this one.

    01st May, 2008

    heythatslife's avatar

    South Korea South Korea

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    Castile by Penhaligon's

    Well, hirsch_duckfinder said just about everything I was going to say.

    Simple (I could pick off all the five notes that are supposed to be there, even with my unsophisticated nose) but elegant and classy. It combines the freshness of a good eau de cologne with longevity and sillage. Kind of similar to AdP Colonia, I think, but more intense, vivid and colorful.

    01st May, 2008

    Annikin06's avatar

    United States United States

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    Flowerbomb by Viktor & Rolf

    Flowerbomb is great. I really like it when my lady wears it. I love it from to to base...

    01st May, 2008

    SirSlarty's avatar

    United States United States

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    Boucheron pour Homme by Boucheron

    I find this very strange: how can I like the linear Lacoste (original)'s lemon and not this (and the awesomely gritty citrus of Habit Rouge)? I find BpH to be way over the top for my taste. All good things comes to those who wait so I stuck with it to the drydown and didn't like anything through there, just one big lemon with flowers. Not me.

    01st May, 2008

    sanziana29's avatar

    Romania Romania

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    No. 5 by Chanel

    I bought it because of it's huge fame, but I was very disappointed. Not staying power, smells artificial and a little cheap. I wonder if old version was different!

    01st May, 2008

    Jemimagold's avatar

    United States United States

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    Champaca by Ormonde Jayne

    Champaca a well–blended delicate fragrance from which I could detect notes of orange blossom, pepper, tea and amber with an overlay of wood. It seems very cozy, elegant and warm, and is the olfactory equivalent of wearing a favorite cashmere sweater while going antiquing on a cool Saturday afternoon in the fall. I think someone who likes Mona di Orio’s Amyitis or Robert Piguet’s Visa would enjoy wearing Champaca

    01st May, 2008 (Last Edited: 04 May, 2008)

    zenana's avatar

    United States United States

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    Tommy Girl by Tommy Hilfiger

    Delicious! This one was a real surprise for an inexpensive scent -- absolutely beautiful, a very bright but creamy floral. Definitely something to wear casually, every day, and just fine for a woman of 50 + as well as young girls. Love it love it love it, and I'm usually not a fan of florals. The citrus notes cut the sweetness.

    01st May, 2008

    Click's avatar

    United States United States

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    Aqua pour Homme Marine by Bulgari

    I personally love this scent. It is a lighter, fresher version of the original Aqua. Definitely a good scent for casual, summer wear.

    01st May, 2008

    djmookie's avatar

    Australia Australia

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    Casmir by Chopard

    I got this perfume as a gift from my partner when it first came out, still probably my fav. It is absolutely delicous. Sweet, spicy and warm - Yummo!! I think I will go put some on right now.

    01st May, 2008

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    Chance by Chanel

    Several times in duty frees I sniffed a spray of Chance, hoping to learn a little about this relatively recent feminine Chanel scent - after all, it's a Chanel. I never could develop an idea about it and I blamed too much sniffing of other fragrances or the perfumy ambiance of the shop, which always screws up my nose. Now that I have a sample (meager though it is), I find almost the same problem with it that I found in the duty free: I can’t develop a firm idea about it: At least not a Chanel idea. Chance is very light and pleasant but it is way too safe and nondescript to fit in the Chanel tradition IMO. An opening of citrus and a touch of pepper: I find it a little sharp and rough, and basically, I don’t find anything special to enjoy about it. The floral middle is quite generic; I can identify the hyacinth in the middle but not really anything else. I don’t find it especially feminine so I think that Chance could be listed as a unisex scent. Its dry down is quite good, in a non-special way; and it lasts incredibly well. It’s an acceptable scent, but I think Chanel should do better.

    02 May, 2008

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    Inspire by Ellen Tracy

    I’ve smelled this one before. I’ve checked other reviews and they not only confirm my suspicions, but they give me a name: Charlie, a popular ‘70s women’s scent by Revlon. This is an up-to-date Charlie; Inspire is more complex and refined, but it is quite similar if my memory hasn’t failed me. This is a clean smelling floral fragrance. It is strong in white florals but it has a special freshness about it – a just out of the shower fresh, because of its citruses and greens. It’s a natural smelling and enjoyable white floral freshness; youthful but not juvenile; clean but not soapy. The top / middle accords project well and are long lasting. The base woods are refined and long lasting. Inspire is an agreeable, all-around excellent, reliable fragrance.

    02 May, 2008

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    Acte 2 en Fleurs by Escada

    Top note: Aldehydes, Green Note, Mandarin, and Bergamot
    Middle note: Freesia, Cyclamen, Rose, and Orris
    Base note: Cedar wood, Sandal, Vanilla, Cinnamon

    There is nothing about this scent that can be disliked. It is well made, non synthetic, pleasant smelling, and has very good sillage and longevity. Pretty much a green / floral, it is basically white florals and a bit powdery. The three levels are clear and identifiable and they all carry their positions efficiently. It has a very nice base of wood, vanilla, and spice. There’s really nothing unique or special in Acte 2 en Fleurs, but it is a nice fragrance.

    02 May, 2008

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    Krizia Uomo by Krizia

    I delayed three years to test this because of the comments about the similarities to One Man Show, which I strongly dislike. Well, I don’t see a very close comparison: Krizia Uomo is a better fragrance than OMS – at least I can tolerate it.

    It opens green and rather strange – rather like musty, coniferously, mossy gray-green … there’s a textured mossy creaminess in the accord which is somewhat interesting and somewhat dated. There is even a little bit of animalic undertone in the opening. The middle floral notes are not at all floral to my nose – more like a continuation of the conifers and the creamy ambiance of the opening. Again, it’s an accord that has seen its day… The drydown is mainly mossy; it has little sweet to it, and I like that about it, but the mossy dryness is rather ordinary, and it, too, has seen its day. Because I don’t get much of the patchouli, vetiver, or musk in the drydown, the mediocre moss note that dominates is a bit too much for me. If the patchouli and vetiver had shown themselves, the base would be greatly improved. I accept this scent, in a disinterested sort of way, but I don’t find anything in it that’s more than mildly interesting.

    02 May, 2008

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    Oxygène Homme by Lanvin

    Nice and clean – green ozonics in the opening – a bit spicy / sweet, but mainly coniferous - green ozonics. I like the opening even though it is non-spectacular; It is pleasant and bright. As it matures, the fragrance gradually loses its ozonics until it settles around a a light coniferous (juniper?) accord that eventually becomes even a tiny bit annoying because of its averageness. The dry down is quite good for this kind of fragrance – a white musk with still a touch of the conifer that actually has some longevity to it. Oxygene Homme is a pleasant, nicely performing fragrance. It’s economical price makes it an excellent bargain.

    02 May, 2008

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    parfums*PARFUMS Series 2 Red: Carnation by Comme des Garçons

    I like the scent very much, but I don’t think of it as carnation. This is another fragrance among many where other reviewers say “a bit of cloves” and I counter with: CLOVES! I know that the carnation flower itself has a spicy, delicate, light, and very singular aroma; and I know that there’s a little something in the carnation smell that smells a little like cloves, but a carnation note doesn’t equal cloves to my nose, especially since my nose seems to magnify the clove note. All that said I love this fragrance. There is a floral accord – jasmine and rose – that shadows the cloves, giving a floral impression to the spice. The rose note is gentle and refined and holds on for a decently long time. A red pepper is also prominent in the fragrance, and, much to my surprise, I find the combination of jasmine, red pepper, and cloves delightful. I never would have thought that I could enjoy a cloves dominant fragrance – especially one that also features red pepper. I guess it’s all in the proportion and blending… Excellent scent!

    02 May, 2008

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    Musk by Lorenzo Villoresi

    I had problems understanding this at first until I realized that I was getting a lot more wood and oakmoss than I was getting musk – I’ve got to stop believing these names. To my nose, the musk sort of skirts around the other notes, especially the sandalwood, oakmoss, rose, and geranium – and of those, especially the geranium. It’s only later that the musk comes into its own and joins the rosy / powdery heart. The dominance of the geranium / rose of the middle gives the fragrance an old fashioned feeling, and I’m not sure the musk has anything to do with that. Not only do I view the heart accord as old fashioned, but I experience it as quite feminine, and I think that’s caused by the musk. It’s a well-done fragrance. It’s refined with possibly an even tighter, more effective construction than many of the other Villoresi’s. And it has the same three-dimensional visual-olfactory effect that I’ve admired in several of the other LV’s. (Some day I’m going to pursue the reason why I actually visualize the olfactory construction of these LV fragrances.) But with LV Musk I can’t find the love: possibly because I am not a huge fan of musks?

    02 May, 2008

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    David Beckham Instinct by Beckham

    I was surprised how light it is. My skin eats up florals and citrus, but even so, it is a light fragrance – even the opening. The opening is bergamot … a quite obviously synthetic version of bergamot; I guess there are other citrus notes in there, but the bergamot really dominates. The middle accord gives me a continuance of the bergamot from the top. The middle notes shown on the pyramid as spices – star anise, cardamom, and red pepper – are quite reticent ...I have to work too hard to smell them. The dry down is actually pleasant in a demurely synthetic way, but it really needs more potency. David Beckham Instinct is a generic scent – and not a very good one, but I don’t find it that much different many of the other celebrity offerings. It lacks longevity but at least it’s subtle enough not to broadcast its flaws to everyone in the room.

    02 May, 2008

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    Oriental Amber by Pecksniff's

    Oriental Amber opens very interestingly with its burst of spice – interesting for about thirteen seconds. Then the spice severely settles down, joining with the middle florals in a rather unexciting heart accord. It’s soft and pleasant and it doesn’t really seem very floral – it seems like a slightly spicy, neutral texture accord. The first note I get from the base is sandalwood – it gradually slips in under the floral accord to provide a warm base to the florals. Then gradually the amber takes over the base. When the amber is dominant, it still presents a soft sandalwood and has added patchouli. The amber base is not really sweet and is quite recessive for an amber oriental; yet, as a skin scent, it has its attractions. Oriental Amber is a very nice feminine fragrance – well constructed with good accords. It could use better longevity.

    02 May, 2008

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    Serpentine by Roberto Cavalli

    I won’t, but I could if I wanted to, describe the opening in one word: WOW. What a captivating combination of rather tropical florals and clean green. Powerful at first, it quickly settles down to a more realistic tropical floral / artemisia accord that is just plain luscious. The floral middle doesn’t come up to the opening standards to me because of the violet leaf, which I always dislike. The middle is still an good accord – but it isn't “Wow.” This middle is, like the top, tropically floral, giving it an rather exotic panache. The base is a letdown; it is woody and ambery with not very much force or staying power. It is unfortunate that this designer just had to follow the same old same old designer tactic of putting everything into the opening and attempting nothing special or lasting for the drydown. But still…the top notes are great.

    02 May, 2008

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    Bois de Paradis by Delrae

    While the rose – berry combination is often used, seldom have I smelled it as lush and deep as this. It is constructed elegantly around the French rose and the blackberry and it is strong in amber and vanilla, It gets very close to being too sweet for me, but I don’t ever find it sweeter than it should be. It is quite classical in ambiance even though it is a recent creation of parfumeur Michel Roudnitska. It is not set to compete with the typical offerings of today: It disdainfully ignores fads and provides a superior rendition of a classic feminine woody - floral Oriental. The drydown is a soft, rich wood (cedar) / vanilla that stays close to the skin. Bois de Paradis is not overpowering in sillage, nor is it demure and shy. It has an adult discreetness about it. Is it old fashioned? Perhaps a little, but I believe that would be of no importance to the kind of person who would opt to wear it. It’s beautiful.

    02 May, 2008

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    Curated by Colette: Hussein Chalayan by Colette

    One of three “Curated” fragrances from Colette. Hussein Chalayan is an extremely light and fresh scent. The top seems to be a transparent citrus (bergamot?) / floral with a semi-somewhat-aquatic feel to it. This is followed by another transparency: tea, I think – a very subtle tea that I have failed to identify. I think it has a wood base, but don’t hold me to it because this scent is extremely discreet and I can barely smell it. It seems to me like clean-after-a-shower skin, like a breath of fresh air, like a misty fog. Whatever it is, it is definitely unisex, maybe even more masculine than feminine. It is a nice scent and I like it very much, but it has the same problem of most light scents: It is too fleeting; it simply doesn’t last very long. But it IS nice if one is into negligibility… It’s the fragrance to wear when you don’t want people to even suspect that you are wearing fragrance.

    02 May, 2008

    Showing 1 to 30 of 1079.