Fragrance Reviews from May 2008

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    foetidus's avatar
    foetidus
    United States United States

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    Weekend for Women by Burberry

    Pleasantly fresh fruity / green opening: The reseda plant note adds a certain element of interest – it’s unique, but only if you consider carefully; and the opening is more sweet than refined. It’s a pleasant casual opening, the kind chosen by a committee – few people would agree to dislike it. The floral middle is well presented but is less interesting than the opening. The rose and the peach blossom stand out amid the floral middle – it’s a lightly sweet, light floral, and it is pleasantly absent of uniqueness. Its drydown doesn’t seem to be really a drydown – it’s more an extension of the original notes into a rather long lasting, non-powdery skin scent – highly attractive with a very comfortable ambiance. A strong point about the fragrance is its complete lack of anything near cloying: This would be a very good fragrance for hot weather use, and it is quite different from the usual hot weather fare.

    Burberry Weekend is a very good scent that, except for over spraying (it’s not a weak scent), would be impossible to misuse. Charming, discreet, mistake proof if carefully sprayed – not very intriguing but much more than adequate.

    24 May, 2008

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    foetidus
    United States United States

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    Comme des Garçons White by Comme des Garçons

    Another one I hadn’t been aware of all these years. Somehow I had missed it until a couple of weeks ago I saw it in a small shop and thought that I should check it out. I’m happy I did. CDG’s White opens with a fascinating spice accord that strongly carries the aromatics of the spices with it. I love that medicinal / aromatic element in fragrances: That particular characteristic in White is as good as any I’ve smelled, especially because it takes the pomegranate note with it, and the result is a gentle and near exotic fruit / spicy accord intensified by aromatics. Once the medicinal aspects of the opening settle down some, we have a relatively discreet floral, fruity, spicy accord for the heart notes – so refined, so nicely balanced, with just the right touch of the exotic; and it has quite good longevity – as a skin scent with the accord, yes, “wafting” up occasionally. I don’t get a separate base – what I get is a continuation of the heart accord except that the clove note becomes more prominent and the amber grows a bit stronger as the time passes. CDGs White is a truly accomplished fragrance.

    24 May, 2008

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    foetidus
    United States United States

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    Signoricci 2 by Nina Ricci

    Brighter and cleaner than the original Signoricci, this 1976 version loses the relative thickness of galbanum that dominated the opening in the 1965 Signoricci. Although the opening is brighter and cleaner than the original version, the middle and base more or less return to the warmer tones of the original, but they seem have lost some of the heaviness that was in the original’s heart notes. One of the additions in the middle notes is the aldehydes, which, I think, help create the new and different kind of warmth quite different from the rosy – musty heft of Signoricci (1)’s heart. With this one, as with the one now called Signoricci, I very soon lose the citruses,and once the citruses are lost, Signoricci (2) becomes a primarily green fragrance, but a green that carries a comfortable warmth which remains through its drydown: It is indeed the warmth of Signoricci (2) that makes it so desirable. It’s an excellent fragrance and my favorite of the three Signoriccis.

    24 May, 2008

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    foetidus
    United States United States

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    Chocolate Chip by Demeter Fragrance Library

    There’s not really too much I can say to describe this one except to say that it smells exactly like it is supposed to. Just like serving up a sheet of chocolate chip cookies fresh from the oven. It even smells warm – I’d like to know how they do that. The various notes are there: baked sweet dough, chocolate, butter. They even provide a recipe on the bottle, but good gosh, is there that much butter – one cup – in a batch of chocolate chip cookies? Seems like an awful lot of fat.

    24 May, 2008

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    foetidus
    United States United States

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    Coze 02 by Parfumerie Generale

    This is spicy, woody, and resinous: the deep, dark, smoky nature of Coze 02 shows itself immediately. I have encountered few scents that exhibit such a strong hold on opaqueness so immediately. What little hint of sweetness there is comes from vanilla pods, which, in themselves are more woody than sweet. I believe that the assertive note in the top and middle is the hemp note; it is remarkable in its exotic wood / green richness. I’ve always loved the smell of hemp. I can’t really pick out many of the individual notes that are listed in the pyramid – chocolate, pimento, coffee – because the smoky resinousness totally dominates the accord to my nose. I’m sure those individual notes are there, but they form themselves in a shadowy but compelling background. I love what I get – a resinous woody, spice bomb along with the warm bitterness of some deep, dark expresso. Strangely enough, for such a strongly dry and powerful scent, it has limited longevity. I just can’t get more than an hour and a half activity on my skin – a fact that greatly disappoints me because I love the murky, dusky nature of Coze 02. Thumbs up for the accords and a pox on the longevity.

    24 May, 2008

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    foetidus
    United States United States

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    Mazzolari Lui by Mazzolari

    Potent and animalic, raw and dry, Mazzolari Lui is a rare one. Its robust opening is an aromatic hammer to the head…a potent brew. To my nose Lui is strongly centered around patchouli – a rich full, dark, even resinous patchouli accord…nearing animalic. The patchouli is supported by woods, vetiver, spices, and ambergris, with the ambergris being the dominant of the support group. This particular ambergris is not the sweet, golden version; this one is dry, resinous, and extremely masculine. Others mentioned leather, but I don’t get very much leather. Lui is powerful and raw, and I find the musk providing a strong animalism. I even get a sort of fecal note sporadically rippling through the middle accord. The sillage at first is strong but after a while it regulates itself to the point where it might not have as much sillage as I would like. Longevity is no problem in that Lui seems to last forever as a rich, intriguing skin scent. When I first smelled Mazzolari Vetiver it jumped to the top of the list of my favorite vetivers. Now that I’ve smelled Mazzolari Lui it’s déjà vu all over again: I’ve found a favorite patchouli.

    24 May, 2008

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    Joe_Frances
    United States United States

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    Frank No. 2 by Frank Los Angeles

    This is a very good mild and mellow fragrance that reminds me somewhat of Avers 2 in its slightly introverted richness. The 80s powerhouse fragrances were totally extroverted and known for their strong personalities. Their style is/was to be rich and strong, and they were not shy about making their presence known. Well, those greats have been pretty much displaced in the market by the often sweeter and more mellow stuff of the 21st Century. Anvers 2 and Frank 2 have a combination of the richer, warner, green and brown elements of that earlier time, blended into that subtle, and some might say, inoffensive style of today. These two No. 2s are the best of fragrances typifying today's sensibility without being washed out. They are the best, in my opinion, because while they are a tad sweet they are not too sweet; not really unisex, thankfully; and not lacking in shades of admirable development and complexity. What also intrigues me about them is that while they are subdued they have very decent longevity, which is quite a good trick. Powerhouses they are not. But they are not weaklings either. Frank No. 2 is to the Silicon Valley-type what the earlier generation fragrances were to the Wall Street-type. To each his own. Good stuff.

    24 May, 2008 (Last Edited: 31st January, 2010)

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    tigrushka
    Finland Finland

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    parfums*PARFUMS Series 3 Incense: Ouarzazate by Comme des Garçons

    Along with Kyoto I find Ouarzazate the most easy-to-wear of the CdG Incense Series scents. I love the woody drydown and the spices remind me of Kabyl cuisine: they are hot, but with a gentle burn. Ouarzazate is warm and cosy (which is a rare quality for an incense scent) like a hot meal enjoyed by a campfire in a desert.

    24 May, 2008

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    ubuandibeme
    United States United States

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    Terracotta Voile d'Ete by Guerlain

    I'm in agreement with most reviewers here...this is a lovely skin scent. Baked earth, spicy carnation, tinge of green (muguet???) Highly wearable. I prefer something sweeter, but this Guerlain is very underrated ~ give it a try for sure!

    24 May, 2008

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    ubuandibeme
    United States United States

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    Joy by Jean Patou

    For me, Joy is initially very rosey, with a hint of jasmine. I really get an awesome civet tone from the pure parfum...exquisitely incorporated, only slightly fleshy/indolic, very, VERY nicely done! Presented with an almost soapy character, it is an exhuberantly gorgeous floral. Slightly dated, but absolutely a masterpiece!

    24 May, 2008

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    ubuandibeme
    United States United States

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    Cèdre by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Un Cedre is not pleasing to this Luten's fan. It opens WAY TOO SWEET ~ like the opening of MPG's Centaure, or Ted Lapidus in the grey bottle ~ actually makes me feel queazy. I don't get any tuberose or cedar wood. The drydown is powdery sweet, what I'd classify as oriental, but it's still a big NO for me!

    24 May, 2008

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    Caltha
    Sweden Sweden

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    Chamade by Guerlain

    I have the reverse reaction to those of you who found the opening overwhelming but liked the drydown. The opening is lovely chilly dewy green spicy very true hyacinth, but alas! it vanishes almost immediately on skin and transforms into a powdery, soapy, warm floral I could swear was carnation! I don't like carnation. For a short while, sharp green galbanum functions as a reminder of the topnotes, then that is gone to and it turns even warmer and more powdery. Boohoo, where did my pretty hyacinth go? Perhaps I could use it as a room scent, as it smells lovely from the vial...

    24 May, 2008

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    tvlampboy
    United States United States

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    Little Italy by Bond No. 9

    Hmmmm -- orange marmalade with a spritzer. How very droll.

    24 May, 2008

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    BlackAmberMoon
    United States United States

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    Narciso Rodriguez for Him by Narciso Rodriguez

    I rarely despise a scent, but this is one of them. Smells like decaying greens and sewage. I cannot understand how anyone would be able to wear this.

    24 May, 2008

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    Strollyourlobster
    United States United States

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    Givenchy Gentleman by Givenchy

    Yann Vasnier says of his creation L'Homme Sage that he called it L'Homme Sage because a wise man knows how to control his craziness. I like L'Homme Sage very much but it doesn't strike me as crazy. The idea seems apt of Gentleman, though.
    It reminds me of a guy I knew in high school. Brilliant guy, not at all a sociopath to be clear, a kind and loyal friend. But almost entirely without physical fear, constantly seeking the ragged edge of destruction in whatever situation, in this cool, speculative, hmmm-bet-that-can-be-done sort of way: climbing out onto the luggage rack at highway speed, dangling from a cliff on an otherwise calm hike. He went on to become a Navy Seal for a time. So he was a great guy but there was always this good natured wildness behind the eyes that was not at all an affectation but just a bit of wiring that got assembled differently. The civet in Gentleman strikes me that way, and I like it.

    24 May, 2008

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    scentsitivity
    United States United States

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    Erolfa by Creed

    Erolfa is a summer favorite of mine. When I take the cap off the bottle, I detect a soapiness, but that never is present on my skin. It is oceanic, salty and citrusy and suggests hot summer days at the beach, saltiness in the air. The dominant citrus is tangerine and it is the best smelling tangerine in fragrance that I know of. The base is the typical Creed ambergris base. I get good longevity and to my surprise even some compliments when I wear it (no, I have not worn it around Luca Turin who gives it his lowest rating in his recently published book “Perfumes”!). I limit my use to warmer weather (it doesn’t develop as well in cooler weather) and it is great for the outdoors.

    24 May, 2008

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    scentsitivity
    United States United States

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    Habit Rouge by Guerlain

    I have a lot of admiration for Habit Rouge. I think the thing that impresses me most is how the vanilla is presented. It is sweet, but just below the edge of too sweet. There is a citrus tinge to it that gives it a sherbet like character that another reviewer has noted. This coupled with leather and a powdery character define the fragrance. Great duration. A classy fragrance.

    24 May, 2008

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    scentsitivity
    United States United States

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    Original Santal by Creed

    Excessively sweet with disappointingly weak wood notes. Even for other Creed’s that I dislike, I typically can find something I respect about them. Not so here.

    24 May, 2008

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    Serafim Jorge
    Portugal Portugal

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    Habit Rouge by Guerlain

    Fantástic one of the best EDT for men used all season

    24 May, 2008

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    shellblue1
    United States United States

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    Aizen-Myoo by Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab

    Smells like fresh, crisp green apples. A deliciously bright fragrance for spring or summer. One of my BPAL faves.

    24 May, 2008

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    shellblue1
    United States United States

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    Akuma by Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab

    A nice fruity blend that kind of reminds me of the summer scents from Escada. This scent contains blood orange, neroli, and raspberry. It is a fun fragrance for spring and summer or is even a nice scent for winter when you need a pick-me-up.

    24 May, 2008

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    shellblue1
    United States United States

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    Antique Lace by Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab

    I definitely get a pretty soft vanilla from this fragrance. The description doesn't mention vanilla at all, but that is what I get. A very nice fragrance for day or night or just lazying around the house. Description: 'Nostalgia encapsulated. A soft, wistful blend of dry flowers, aged linens, and the faint breath of long-faded perfumes.'

    24 May, 2008

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    shellblue1
    United States United States

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    Aunt Caroline's Joy Mojo by Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab

    Mmm this one is nice and foody. Vanilla and other sugary notes swirled together to make this luscious scent. Description: 'Bottled happiness. Helps reverse misfortune, brings light and laughter to even the most troubled and discordant place, and aids in alleviating the stress and discontent that accompanies so many of life's daily trials.'

    24 May, 2008

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    shellblue1
    United States United States

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    Bliss by Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab

    This scent is almost too much of a chocolate note to me. It is very singular. Like a chocolate bar. Description: 'A shot of pure, self-indulgent euphoria! A scent that is very, very wicked in its own way: the serotonin-slathered scent of pure milk chocolate.'

    24 May, 2008

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    82cutty
    United States United States

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    Rive Gauche pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

    Wow...just got this today and got like 10 compliments from random women . This stuff is just so fresh and so clean . I really don't get that barbershop effect that people say . Never really smelled anything similar...it's very unique . Defintely recommend this juice . It's strong so go easy on the sprays...lasts forever . 2 sprays on my chest and neck at 7:00 pm and still going strong at almost 4:00am . Very nice

    24 May, 2008

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    chartreuse
    Abu Dhabi Abu Dhabi

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    Moon Garden by Strange Invisible Perfumes

    It started out as a less than interesting patchouli. Then it faded and turned into something strange, not really unpleasant, but not pleasant either. I’ll try again in the summer heat to see if it blooms.

    24 May, 2008

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    Bigsly
    United States United States

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    Cuba Red by Cuba Paris

    I wouldn't compare this to Carven Homme or M7 at all. Actually, it's about as close to Burberry London for men as I could possibly imagine. CH is ambery, with nice rosewood, and a bit of sweetness. M7 is powdery, with oud and a bit of a raspberry scent in the background. Cuba Red is not sweet, has a bit of succulence though (citrus?), and is grounded in cedar. It's very spicy, but dry. If you can sample Burberry London at your local mall, do that first, then I'd suggest buying Cuba Red (I got a 4.2 ounce bottle for less than $10), if you like BL and are on a budget. I like CR, but I like others more at this point, so this is a once a fortnight or once a month frag for me.

    24 May, 2008 (Last Edited: 19 June, 2008)

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    dreams&drafts
    Canada Canada

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    Honeysuckle by Jalaine

    I thought part of the problem with this might have been that the heavy oil base doesn’t suit a scent associated with summer breezes and butterflies in the hedgerows, and that it might have worked better in an alcohol base as an eau de parfum where it could have opened up a bit. However, given that it’s more polyurethan than posy I don’t think that would have helped much, and in any case, like it or not, it has zero lasting power and flutters right off me.

    24 May, 2008

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    dreams&drafts
    Canada Canada

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    Diabolo Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine

    I wore this all last summer when the weather was hot and humid, and frequently in winter as well, and my bottle is almost gone. Who doesn’t want to smell like the green drifts in a darkly shaded garden? The mint in the top notes is more the living plant leaves you bruise in your hand when picking herbs than artificial mint; I think some who were expecting chewing gum were disappointed and some who feared chewing gum never tried it, because this never got the accolades it deserved. Tomato leaves and maté add to the overall greenness, and the lush rose note gives a shadowy gravitas as well as an overall smoothness, but it’s never dark or heavy, nor is it harsh and bitter. It stays crisp and cool right to the end, without drying down into vanilla or anything hideously sticky. Its biggest problem is that the end comes sooner than I’d like, but it’s the sort of thing that’s sensuously pleasurable to reapply. It’s not sweet, a refreshing change from the usual women’s fragrances, but, although it’s feminine, it’s only a women’s fragrance in the sense that a freshly pressed shirt and a black leather watch band are women’s items.

    The name refers to the juggling game and isn’t a poorly spelled ‘diablo’, in case you were wondering where the devil went. :)

    24 May, 2008

    numero5's avatar
    numero5
    Abu Dhabi Abu Dhabi

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    Cuir / Cuir de Russie by Piver

    a perfume that smells of muscles, leather, the scent of manhood.

    PS: the new version is crap. Try to get your hands on a vintage bottle.

    24 May, 2008 (Last Edited: 27 March, 2010)

    Showing 781 to 810 of 1079.