Perfume Reviews

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Total Reviews: 130962

Oud Malaki by Chopard

This smells like a fragrance marketed as oud, but equal parts spices, other woods, and menthol. As it develops, it smells more fruity, floral, and the base is pleasantly sweet ambery woods with the oud note barely detectable, reminiscent of the base of Trumper's Sandalwood Cologne or Egoiste.
28th October, 2016

Z Zegna Milan by Ermenegildo Zegna

This is interesting and a million miles away from Zegna's original Z fragrance.

It's a very dry woody fig with some smoke and a touch of sweetness. Unusually for a fig fragrance, it is not paired with any sort of coconut, or vanilla, or other fruit. The representation of fig here appears to encompass the whole fig tree, rather than just the fruit and/or leaves. In that respect it is unique, however on my skin it does remind me of something that I wish I could recall (but not necessarily another fig fragrance).

Although there are only 3 notes listed above, it certainly seems to have additional notes other than just those listed. I can absolutely detect a very specific smoke note that wouldn't ordinarily come from either fig, clary sage, or sandalwood (unless you were burning sandalwood incense). I also clearly detect an amberish (not ambergris) resinous quality to the drydown that appears to come from either Labdanum, benzoin, or even myrrh. I guess it could be sandalwood, but not how I would ordinarily recognize it.

Longevity for an EDT is average to moderate at about 6 or 7 hours and projection is fairly soft. While I can smell it on myself quite clearly, when I asked a work colleague what she thought of it, she did need to come pretty close to detect it. She liked it well enough but commented that it was quite soft.

Overall, this is a very pleasant (if a bit unusual) new scent from Zegna and appears to be a bit of a departure from its usual non-Essenze line. If like me you are a fig lover, I would suggest getting your hands on a tester to try this out. If however you don't like fig, I would stay well away.
28th October, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Mayotte / Mahora by Guerlain

Frangipani and tuberose - a simple but surprisingly well suited floral combination - freshened up with a good dash of neroli with a nigh herbal whiff: This triad together forms too notes that not only are beautiful together, but quite unique - an opening with an original result; a feat not commonly found in a mainstream fragrance. The opening with a sheer delight.

In the drydown the floral side takes over, with a rich ylang-ylang in the foreground and an pleasant wood/jasmine as accompaniment. Throughout all this time, the tuberose permeates them all; not a fat or waxy tuberose, but the lighter, brighter and more elegant variety. Even is the base the result is a touch original at times.

The main addition towards the latter phases is a pleasant, fairly restrained tonka that is of moderate sweetness and never heavy or cloying. Never is this comparison really very sweet.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a very impressive thirteen hours of longevity on my skin.

This spring creation, suitable for cooler days and evenings, is well blended with interesting twists and very good performance. Whilst conspicuously lacking any true Guerlinade, it is nonetheless a well executed creation in the tradition of this brand. 3.5/5.
28th October, 2016
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Chambre Noire by Olfactive Studio

I was very surprised at this scent. I expected something leathery and perhaps a bit animalic. I actually found it to be powdery & musty. It reminded me of Guerlain's Mitsouko a fragrance, like many early Guerlain's that I find extremely unpleasant.
28th October, 2016

La Yuqawam pour Homme by Rasasi

This is a style of leather fragrance that was made popular by the original Helmut Lang Cuiron with its dry raspy leather with hints of tobacco leaf which gives it more of a suede feel. More leathery than Cuiron, but without any of the petrochemicals or animalic harshness of "big leathers" like Knize Ten, Hard Leather or African Leather. I guess the smell is suede more than a hard polished leather, and so Luqawam pour Homme has a very bold leathery but suede aroma as opposed to the very light suede leather fragrances on the market (Suedois, Cuiron). This is a bold suede leather. I don't know exactly how they get to this leather but I suspect it has saffron, maybe ambrette in there somewhere, possibly tobacco oil too. I have heard references to Tom Ford Tuscan Leather and a similarity exists, but in my view this Rasasi La Yuqawam leather is bolder than TF Tuscan Leather, has less raspberry note, and is a rounder, deeper and fuller expression of leather suede fragrance. It is also similar to Aqua di Parma Leather but I think I like this one more.

Let's talk value for a moment. This fragrance is one third the price of Tom Ford, half the price of AdP Leather and in my view smells better. The bottle design, the wooden box it comes in, magnetic closed lid and presentation and finish in general are also far superior to Tom Ford or AdP Leather. I like that for a value proposition. How do they do that? All in, its a super value and an excellent choice for a leather fragrance. The only downside or negative I can think of is if you already have a bottle of the highly hyped Tom Ford or AdP Leather then acquiring this one is clearly excessive duplication as they are very similar. If you don't have those, try this!
27th October, 2016

Vanilla Bourbon Intense by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

This is a well balanced and slightly bitter IMO. It has a great blend of vanilla and patchouli. This isn't an over the top super sweet vanilla at all so I think it is very unisex in that respect. I would recommend a try before you buy ($75 US for 30 ml in the EDP strength). If you are a fan of vanilla scents this is for you for sure due to the vanilla lasting from start to finish. ENJOY!
27th October, 2016

Ore by Slumberhouse

Ore by Slumberhouse is one of the strongest and longest lasting scents I have had the pleasure to experience. From start to finish it is amazing. Sweet? Yes. Too sweet? Not at all. Just enough sweetness to bring out the deep and resinous wood notes that makes this a tremendous scent to be enjoyed. The best part of the experience is the dry down which is absolutely amazing.... sweet, resinous "pine tree" wood note (to my nose at least) which would be the Peru balsam. A complete winner. For the price $150ish for 30ml is steep so try before you buy. ENJOY!
27th October, 2016

Idole de Lubin by Lubin

Stardate 20161027:

A cola accord, a booze note and some sweetness and spices. And no that is not a recipe of a cocktail but a making of a masterpiece.
The only fragrance that has earned my 5 star rating FWTW ;).
And don't be fooled by its clone threads, there is nothing like it out there.
Now that EDT is discontinued, get the EDP. Differences are minimal.

27th October, 2016

Armani Eau pour Homme by Giorgio Armani

Stardate 20161027:
Vintage Version (Black Bottom):

This screams Italian from the very first spray.
A bridge between classic Eau de Cologne (1916, 4711) and classic barbershop (Tuscany, APH).
You can smell both in it and if you try not to smell either (sorta like sniff squit) you get a new type of fragrance that is manly and soft.
I would urge you to try this. You will not be unhappy

27th October, 2016

Portos by Balenciaga

Gorgeous spicy leathery fougere from the 80's with that "old school" drydown.

Great longevity!

Now discontinued but try it if you can find it!

Thumbs up!
27th October, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Purple Fantasy by Guerlain

The opening notes is a fresh-fruity blast, peaches, apricot with a touch or bergamot, and enhanced by an overarching but thin layer of Japanese sencha green tea, with a slightly roasted kocha tea and a Darjeeling vibe shining through at times. A pleasant start of the purple voyage.

The drydown brings on sweeter moments, with jasmine in the foreground and given depth by a coconut aroma that is lashed with a woodsy undertone. There is an attempt of sandalwood hat is too bland and synthetic to excite one's olfactory receptors. In the base this mix shifts to develop a more sweetish-creamy character. It is never intrusive or restrained and exudes an overall well-behaved elegance.

I get moderate sillage, very god projection and a splendid fifteen hours of longevity on me.

This spring or autumn scent - good for day and for evening - is well crafted and performs convincingly, but the ingredients are of a somewhat too generic nature and lack colour and vibrancy. Still, pleasant and agreeable it is indeed. 2.75/5.
27th October, 2016

Angel: Liqueur de Parfum by Thierry Mugler

This is NAUGHTY!

It's got a really pronounced animalic honey/beeswax note. But that seems to have taken the place of some of the patchouli, and I find this version to be smoother and more...intimate isn't exactly the word, but it's lower key. Certainly it smells like a perfume, and basically like Angel, but the honey note gives it a skanky, worn-in feeling that I realize my favorites like Shalimar Ode a la Vanille and Tom Ford's Noir Pour Femme also have. These are perfumes that don't care if I like them, while the original Angel is trying HARD.

The feeling of nonchalance is something I usually associate with the great ones from Guerlain and Chanel. It's like a magic French trick - how can something as drop-dead elegant as No. 5 Eau Premiere or the old Cristalle (or an ancient Hermes bag) just work its way into basically any situation and always be right? But these things just ARE. I think the magic runs deep into the culture, and you can't put it on like an affectation, though you CAN wear the perfume. And I do.

This flanker isn't elegant like that, but it's sure delicious. The pineapple isn't to be feared - it's caramelized, like in pineapple upside down cake, and works with the warmth of the other notes rather than going all tart froot.

Lasts forever, and the fun part is that once it settles in, it smells like you put it on the day before and had a late night.

27th October, 2016
Hubar Show all reviews
United States

Jones New York by Jones New York

Beautiful fragrance, though I agree that mostly the florals come through Jasmine & White Rose are dominant on me. I definitely get Lime & Mandarin with hint of peach with sandalwood noticeable in background. Even though I've had this scent for quite a while as of year 2016 it doesn't seem to have changed as it is still how I remember from many years ago.
27th October, 2016
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1916 by Myrurgia

Stardate 20161026:

A traditional Eau de Cologne. Nicely done. Better than many out there.
As mentioned by others longevity is EdC type so dont expect it to last a work day
At the price it is going for ($5/oz vintage) a no brainer.
26th October, 2016

Kimonanthe by Diptyque

Kimonanthe is Diptyque at both its best and its worst. On the one hand, this is the most compelling scent they’ve issued in years; on the other, it exemplifies the age-old department store trick of the shiny facade with questionable substance. This scent smells fantastic for the first hour or so but a tad generic after that. What it comes down to is the fact that Diptyque is a mass-production brand with wide distribution, so using materials of notable character or quality is out of the question. What the brand does well, though, is invest their budget in perfumers who know how to make the most out of basic synthetics like ambroxan (that powered their previous release) and the sandalwood synths that dominate this one. The 34 Collection — supposedly the up-scale scents of the line — are simply tossing in a mid-tier natural here and there, cranking the concentration from ‘weak’ to ‘acceptable,’ and using that as justification to market the scent as something it’s not. I own a few Diptyque bottles and for as well-blended as they are, they tend to fall short in other critical areas.

Having said all that, this one is worth your time, even if it’s just for the first couple of hours that it’s on your skin. It’s an encapsulating smoky tea scent with a milky apricot thread running throughout. It smells scarily close to Slumberhouse’s Jeke, only less punishing and without any of the natural absolutes that make Jeke such a wall. It also riffs on Kiste by the same brand, borrowing the metallic tea accord quite literally. The main difference is that Jeke’s clove note is missing, replaced instead with an osmanthus accord that reads as somewhat peach-like (the Kiste similarity). The effect is that for a couple of hours, Kimonanthe is a monolithic, smoky, fascinating tea perfume with hints of an oriental structure. It smells great upfront: unique (unless you’ve smelled the Slumberhouse scents its riffing on), balanced, and comforting. What’s disappointing — but understandable given the mass-produced nature of the brand — is that the remainder of the ride is entry-level stuff: a well-constructed but mundane synthetic woody amber with a touch of earthy patchouli and cedar. Once I’d smelled the base, I couldn’t not detect it in the opening when reapplying. For fans of Osmanthe Yunnan looking for something more bodied, this is very different — it’s far more opaque and more about smokey tea than glassy apricot. However, for those who found Jeke to be a bit too claustrophobic, this offers a more commercial alternative.
26th October, 2016

La Rose Jacqueminot by Coty

La Rose Jacqueminot is nice. It smells modern, not dated; a fruity, creamy, floral perfume, and it's easy to wear. I think I may smell a note in common with Chanel No. 19.
26th October, 2016

Aramis by Aramis

Probably because I was enamored in the Dior Eau Sauvage in the 60's, my first recollection of this had me dismiss it as a "Brash" concoction made for an American market. By the early 70's I was taken by Givenchy Gentleman's civet driven Patchouli European brashness.
Turned my nose up at Aramis for years. I was lucky enough to pick up a sample from the 80's that is quite enjoyable.
I'll still wear Cabochard or Lauder for Men or the other Lauder bitter greens instead.
26th October, 2016

Spice and Wood by Creed

Stardate 20161026:

This is one of the few Creeds that I like. It is a nice synthetic fragrance that has the Creed signature base (kinda like Aventus Base).
There is some spice but gets drowned in the synthetic fruit.
I would recommend it if you have the moolah.
26th October, 2016

Shooting Stars: Nio by Xerjoff

This makes me think of 4711 cologne, only with way bigger cajones. And waaaaay better lasting power. This has such a lovely fresh, cool feel to it. Zesty, zingy bergamot, tempered by the warmth of the amber, sweetened ever so slightly by the jasmine and with a delicious kick from the cardamom and pink pepper – so, so good. Imagine you’re hiking up a thickly wooded mountain; the trees tower overhead, you can see the sun peeking through the canopy, can feel its warmth, but on the ground, the last lingering bits of the early morning mist swirl around your feet as you walk. The air feels cool and fresh on your hot face as you hike higher and higher, and then you find it – a sparkling pool of crystal clear, ice-cold water, fed from a spring further up the mountain. You scoop up a big handful of water and splash it on your face, enjoying the way it makes your skin tingle, then you eagerly gulp down handful after handful, feeling its coolness all the way down. That’s what this makes me feel like – it’s so deliciously cool and fresh and bracing. Damn this is good. This is destined to remain on my wish list though – the price is a tad scary.
26th October, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Habit Rouge Dress Code by Guerlain

An orangey citrus, freshened up with whiffs of neroli and endowed with a rather nonspecific floral undertone. This is quite a pleasant mix of top notes, but on my skin they are not particularly memorable.

The drydown adds a very subdued spicy backgound notes, which is combined with a somewhat generic woodsy layer that, again, reeks of unexciting but agreeable pleasantness.

Later on, after a rather forgettable attempt at a leather impression, the base announces itself by parading a sweetish tonka impression that constitutes the core chord; together with whiffs of cocoa powder, at times still linked to the restrained background spiciness, they set the tone for the second half of the development.

The performance is impressive, with moderate sillage, excellent projection and a superb longevity of thirteen hours on my skin.

A sweetened autumnal gourmandised and rather synthetic flanker that is quite generic overall and really does not do great credit to the original, at least not the original vintage pre-LVMH version. 2.75/5.
26th October, 2016

Oud Stars : Al-Khatt by Xerjoff

A fruity + jasmine (indolic) + barnyard smell. Excellent stuff.

I first put it on, I found it okay.

BUT!.. shortly after, wow! Awesome fragrance, and I was sold based on the sample. Got a full bottle shortly after.

Probably my favorite Xerjoff so far.
26th October, 2016

Cabochard by Grès

For those that find Tuberose laden Bandit a little hard to take, Cabochard provides the Leathery Bitter Green delight. The Rose, especially in Vintage is extraordinarily and beautifully set against an Oakmoss canvas.
26th October, 2016

Santal Noble by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

Even though they only have one note in common, for some reason Santal Noble reminds me of Cadavre Exquis, except Santal Noble is a much less ‘in your face’ fragrance. Thinking I might be losing my mind, I asked my husband to smell each of them and he agreed that there is a similarity, but the Santal Noble was much more restrained. Spiced vanilla coffee and sandalwood with a big dash of patchouli, warmed up by the amber. This is good stuff.
25th October, 2016

#3 Notes of Cabernet by Kelly & Jones

Notes of Cabernet? In this juice are there specific Cabernet notes or just "wine/alcohol" notes? I would say it is a berry type smell which overall is well done and does a good job of smelling of Cabernet without having an "alcohol wine smell" coming from your skin. I would say it leans WAY more feminine than male or unisex IMO. Longevity 5 hours projection maybe 2 hours. Overall a slight thumbs up. Enjoy!
25th October, 2016

Cabochard by Grès

This review is for the current EDP, which is widely available at an unbelievably low price for a classic - albeit heavily redacted - fragrance. Cabochard is often compared to Bandit and Azuree, and indeed they are very similar (especially in the drydown); but to my nose it smells more like the current excellent reformulation of Magie Noire, which is more floral than Bandit and Azuree. Cabochard still has its leathery and smoky edge, though. It opens very sharp and green, and mellows into a satisfying modern chypre (i.e. no oakmoss, what an oxymoron!). It retains its structure throughout many hours on my skin, with a healthy sillage. Of course, like most current reformulations, Cabochard EDP isn't as robust as its vintage predecessor - but it's still quite good.
25th October, 2016

Dot by Comme des Garçons

What is this?

Ok, at Commes Des Garçons they're not just responsible for daring and artsy stuff, they also provided us with a plethora of easy to like / pop fragrances that have often set the bar for other mainstream brands to follow. Well, Dot doesn't belong in either of these cathegories. Nothing to do with the avant facets of, say, EDP 2011 (the one in the same melted bottle as Dot) or the plush florals of Luxe Champaca. Nothing to do with the abstractness of the original Stephen Jones. Nothing to do with the daring approach of Guerrilla 1. Dot is a complete failure. A disappointment.

A totally uninspired fruity floral with just a tinge of that metallic-incense base that's typical of several CDGs. Not enough character to stand out amongst the most daring deliveries from the house, not good enough to become one of those minor CDGs that while not shining for originality, they still can do the trick as safe-but-solid fragrances.

Too bad because the bottle is cute.

25th October, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Insolence Eau de Toilette by Guerlain

The top notes consist of a somewhat nonspecific berry fruit mix, poured into a mixer and left standing for a while. There is a whiff of bergamot present at times, as a whiffs of peach. An overlying thin layer of aldehydes adds a fresh impression.

Later on, heading towards the heart notes, a touch of styrax combines with a medium-bright fairly light tuberose impression, with a gentle iris confirming to switch from being fruit-dominated towards floral heart notes; later strengthened by a violet tinge.

Then a very restrained and slightly creamy vanilla heralds the arrival of the base note phase. Through all its developement there is all was a well-behaved sweetness present, which is never strong, never intrusive and never cloying.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and an impressive eleven hours of longevity on my skin.

This is unusual spring creation, at times a bit generic, it develops over time into a subtle but very agreeable composition that is delicate and times and overall well balanced, albeit a bit lacking in intensity at times. The excellent performance lifts into the positive realm - if just by the skin of its teeth. 3/5.
25th October, 2016

Good Life by Davidoff

Stardate 20161024:

A cool water wannabe. I don't see the fuss here. One of the few cases where the decision to discontinue has been a wise one.
Buy cool water and be glad.
25th October, 2016

Noble VII Rock Rose by Clive Christian

This stuff’s dumber than hair but easy to like. What’s hilarious about it is that it smells like a merger of several bro-cheapies — a mashup of the original Varvatos, CK Shock / Euphoria, and at least one of the Zara scents too (the one that knocked of 1 Million) that morph into the same sickly-sweet base used in Armani's diabetes-inducing Myrrhe Impériale. Although I haven’t smelled the Varvatos or the CK scents in some time, they represent a fragrance “type” — which is exactly the mode this is working in, for a laughable $550. The scent: slightly fruity, tobacco-infused, bro-amber cut with a manly-man floral bouquet (GIT’s violet leaf, basically). Given the perfume's name, there's not much in the way of labdanum. Sugary, plump, blurred — pleasant enough but low-IQ. If it were priced around $70, I’d consider it an appealing albeit redundant contribution to saccharine masculines. At this price point, it’s a joke but one that’s consistent with the brand’s usual vulgarity. Cheap yet expensive.
24th October, 2016 (last edited: 25th October, 2016)

Incense Flash by Tauerville

Stardate 20161024:

A nice incense. It is very much like what the house of CdG would churn out. Avignon and Black are its cousin.
Nothing unpleasant - a plain and simple incense done well
24th October, 2016