This one is fun. Starts amazing. Rose plus some greens. Which it turns out is strawberry note. Rose is very mischievous, overpowering and floral and it needs someone to ground it. Oud,Patch, Woods have been the stoic ones in the relationship. Strawberry is a recent lover and does work well.
Unfortunately, the strawberry note here is the cheap artificial one (candy, shampoo) and so after 10 minutes it just drags the whole thing down. Making it a scrubber.
But wait couple of hour and that artificial note goes away giving way to some dirty green wood and late on some oudy note. This is the best part of this fragrance.
Xerjoff has been a house that I always wanted to like. The bottles are great and I like their names. Unfortunately, all the Xerjoffs I have tried have been meh.
Lira is no different. Smells like my favourite chocolate Ganache cake that I used to get from Mangia Bakery in midtown Manhattan. And like the cake, Lira disappears quickly.
I would save the money and get the cake.
A dark resinous masculine fragrance of indescribable beauty. Bvlgari Gyan (from Le Gemme new precious line) is the veritable essence of metropolitan luxuriousness. The subtle fresh cardamomish fruity/floral spiciness, combined with a more traditional patch-centered chypre accord, provides a quite classic "under-twist" (a glorious background a la Youth Dew, Armani Onde Mystere, Gianni Versace, Fendi by Fendi or classic Patou) in the body of an extraordinary modern glistening light oriental. The floral presence is soapy-spicy a la Dior Addict but far more dark, humid, piquant and precious. Super lush and glamour, perfect for a gala night in the top down town lounge club. A velvety spicy-floral indonesian patchouli is the main protagonist of this moonlight-dream. One of the most sophisticated perfumes ever tested on skin. A modern masterwork for Bvlgari straight from the Jacques Cavallier's olfactory wisdom.
Dear Mr. Fazzolari--
I'm writing this review to beg you: please bring back Seyrig. I foolishly waited until today, April 26 2017, to finally get around to my sample. Then I fell head over heels in love with it. And then I discovered that Seyrig was a limited-quantity only production, and that there is no more to be had for love nor money. I shed actual tears over this--something that I have never done over a perfume before.
I love aldehydes, and I love ylang-ylang, and the combination of these in Seyrig is transcendent, somehow rich and buttery and light and fizzy all at the same time. Wearing Seyrig feels like being enveloped in a delicate mousse. There are only two other perfumes I know of that communicate a similar sensation--Chanel No 5 and Chanel No. 22, both famous perfumes known for their masterful treatment of aldehydes. Seyrig belongs in their company; it's that gorgeous.
Having experienced Seyrig, and having been left bereft and sleepless by the discovery that it's all gone, all I can do is write this passionate declaration of love, and beg for its return. (Well, that, and explore your other perfumes, of course, which I will be doing toute suite). I have sent you a message through your website, but I feel like going public might increase the chances that somehow, someway, I won't have to go through life without a substantial quantity of this gorgeous perfume. Please consider taking pity on an abject lady in Texas.
With my most sincere thanks,
P.S. If there is anyone out there in the perfume universe who can bear to part with some of their Seyrig, please consider helping a sister in her time of need.
Zegna Italian Bergamot is a pure lemon bergamot that has a bit of bubbling life that other lemon or bergamot perfumes miss on. The slight sweetness and almost edible, candied lemon smell is delightful. There is a clean buttoned up clarity to this that works with the Zegna brand nicely. This fragrance is immediately knowable as a high quality product. It may cost a bit more but is worth it.
Opens with beautiful dry woody tart lemon citrus scent. From very early on this scent shows its dry mineral base which may be white musk and vetiver. The unique quality of Bergamote 22 is the cooling bone dry lemon, yes bergamot aroma that lasts for quite a long time for a light summer citrus. No bergamot is listed as a primary note which gives me a clue that by reconstructing the aroma of bergamot with petitgrain for dry woody orange, grapefruit for tartness, and vetiver for green tinged base of the bergamot construction the perfumer was able to reassemble bergamot with more density than is there by nature. Petitgrain+grapefruit+vetiver=a big bergamot scent. Also a very dry base. This is the best smelling lemon fragrance I've tried.
On opening you smell a nice combination of lemon and mandarin orange citrus that is juicy and bright. Shortly after there is an abrasive light note, violet, that adds some disruption to the smoothe bell toned ring of the citrus. Other than for character I don't know why this note is here because it is a disruptive presence as the scent is strongly influenced by cooling dry violet and dry rasp of musk ambrette. This plus the other woods in the base add a dry woody finish which separates this citrus scent from its opening warmth. This is a very different take on a summer citrus that I like overall but recommend testing before buying.
Vanilla pods and saffron steeped in milk, wafer biscuits, rice pudding, eggnog, zabaglione - all these could be positive associations, especially for lovers of lactonic gourmands. It's possible that some people might even want to actually smell like one of the above custardy confections (although I'm not one of them).
Much less do I want my wrists smelling of a baby's breath when it's just finished breastfeeding.
DVN does have an accord of skin at times - there's saffron and a faint rubbery note in common with L'AP Skin On Skin and a furriness that's also present in Dzing! These are, once more, positive associations.
But then there it is again - milk-sweet babybreath, except this time the baby's on the changing mat with a damp diaper.
I'll be the one in the shower.
M.Malle, you disappoint me.
I felt compelled to leave a few notes on Mojave Ghost because there are so many negative reviews for what I think is a very innovative and fresh - in every sense - fragrance. Named for the Mojave Ghost flower which grows in very dry desert areas the fragrance resembles the flower in concept only but that works because the scent is very dry and ethereal, ghost-like and also hauntingly dry in a mystical desert floral manner. The opening smells like a light sugary melon ball syrup shaken with magnolia flower essence which is an extremely light sweet floral but there is a slight purple slash of violet that sends a small dark cloud over the sunny sky. This light airy floral is carried outward on an inflationary burst of synthetic cedar and ruggedly sunny ambroxan. The result is a dry sun baked desert air scent with a slightly brooding reclusive floral tone.
Though very different in name, Mojave Ghost reminds me a bit Gendarme which is similar but has a less dry slightly greener presence. The primary limiting factor of Mojave Ghost is that its floral essence causes it to lean slightly feminine in character. Otherwise it is good for a 7/10 rating.
The first few hours are floral in nature, nearly completely dominated by a rich and complex iris impression. It is smooth, rich and develops smoky undertones. In the drydown touches of a herbal spiciness are added - an interesting opening phase.
The second part sees the earlier notes dwindle, apart from whiffs of smokiness that linger for a while longer. The core of the socond phase are benzoin and vanilla. At first I get the benzoin to an extent that it raised fears in me that it would take over recklessly, but then the vanilla came to the fore, and its dominant role relegated the benzoin into an accompaniment that accentuates rather than overwhelms the vanilla. Whiffs of woodsy connotations are present at times.
I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a magnificent thirteen hours of longevity on my skin.
This pleasant wintery scent, in the second stage rightfully descibed as nigh-gourmand by Lovescully, is a bit unimaginative in the second half, although the quality of the ingredients is quite respectable. The performance is excellent. Overall nothing brilliant, but nice. 3.25/5.
The gourmand floral opening that worked very well for me.
Luca once mentioned that Habanita was great until he read the notes and realized it is vanilla and vetiver. Now all he gets is those 2 notes and not the combined accord.
I suffer the same fate with Tardes an the likes - once I could smell the olafactory symphony, but now all I get is cherry pie and shampoo. If I squint (and during drydown) I can still get that accord. But the magic is gone.
Still a mild thumbs up for me.
Don't like this one. Has similar accords as one of the Afteliers. Fig one perhaps. Just dislike it. Rotten fruits up top and too dry and dusty later on.
I think fig is not for me.
This is a doppelganger for Black Sugar by Aquolina. It stays sweet, sugary-sweet throughout its time on your skin. It is hours before I notice the musk and wood notes. Very long-lasting. Hummingbird magnet.
Orange zest . . . and hairspray! I really like most of Atelier Cologne's photorealistic fruity scents, because they smell fresh and zingy and their citrus notes last longer than almost anything else out there. I think Orange Sanguine in particular is a brilliant snapshot of cold orange juice, pulp and juice and all. In Mandarine Glaciale, a strong note that suggests pure orange zest, complete with its bitterness and pungency intact, gets a bit lost underneath a wall of aldehydes that just won't quit. To my nose, the aldehydes exactly replicate some of the cheaper hairspray formulas I used to coat the inside of my bathroom walls back in the 1980s. So, the overall effect comes off a bit sticky and smothered, at least to me. But I suspect that personal experience may prejudice me in this case, so I won't engage in any further dissing of such a well-intentioned, unpretentious scent. Smell for yourself and decide--AC is nothing if not generous with their samples.
I purchased this scent because I wanted an "all season"
fragrance which might evoke a different emotion as temperatures rose and fell. Certainly, in the store, Jubilation XXV was fascinating. Unfortunately, on me, this fragrance lasts about an hour, and the sillage forces me to stick my nose in the crux of my arm. I am disappointed.
Thumbs up for this 1977 release. It's rich and full bodied in the opening. It has a mossy green tinge, and smells like it was made from quality ingredients. It seems like an unobtrusive kind of smell, not a typical cologne smell to me. It almost smells like someone may have been working in the prep kitchen, with smells of food, soap, and leather. This is not a must-have for me, but I'm happy to have had a few wearings. This reminds me of Caron Yatagan, which I think I prefer.
Review of the Eau de Parfum:
Asomewhat attenuated bergamot with a fruity undertone gives way to a white flowery impression, which develop into the central accord of this composition's heart notes.
Later on the fruitiness morphs into a white musk component, an in the base this impression lingers towards the end.
I get moderate sillage, limited projection, and three hours of longevity on my skin.
Looking and this sping scent, the opening notes are quite clear, but very, very generic. The later stages are very synthetic too, equally generic and, additionally, quite bland and weak on my skin, never developing fully to an extent that results in a convincing or even a mediocre overall impression. 1.75/5.
A sweetish and fruity concoction, mainly lychee and a mild ginder accent, which in the drydown shifts to become mainly a floral composition.
The floral impressions in the heart notes are mainly freesia, lotus and violet, the latter being dominant on my skin and the most convincing detail in this mix
The base is a soft patchouli mixed with a woodsy undertone; all this is topped off by white musks. The middle phase and the base are very lackluster and thin on my skin.
I get moderate sillage, good projection and an excellent eight hours of longevity on my skin.
A spring scent that is very synthetic most if the time, and, apart form the violet contribution, overly generic. It performs quite well though, but overall is really not even mediocre. 1.75/5.
Generic fresh, fruity fragrance with some citrus notes of orange and an implied melon effect. Dries down to a synthetic woods base. It isn't sweet in particular, and has a hint of a sourness which is mercifully very restrained. It is very generic overall, and similar to many including Burberry Weekend for Men and CK One. However, it's an upgrade on the Burberry which comes across as harsher and screechier, but is less fun than the CK as it lacks One's androgynous appeal.
The mid phase does have a very vague metallic aspect.
Quite forgettable, but perhaps not the worst of its kind. Contrary to its target audience, I imagine this would work better on young girls.
Juniper, Cardamom, some of my favourite things.
I was hoping for an improvement from the Naff thing that was EDT. All I can say is. Go Diptyque Eau Duelle,
for a Voyage to remember.
Or Chanel No.18 for an elegant trip across the Universe.
23rd April, 2017 (last edited: 25th April, 2017)
My second fragrance from the house of MFK, first was Satin Oud, and now this. I love the house. This is smooth and just a little soft on me, i prefer more of a loud scent. Please advise what should be my third from MFK? I have explored Amouge and love it, but have moved on to MFK which i feel has more of a refinement
Nightingale by Zoologist is a light coral hued perfume that smells somewhat like a Japanese tea garden which must be an intended tone from perfumer Tomoo Inaba. The combination of sharp saffron spiced incense violet woods and plum wine floral notes layered over oud wood, patchouli, sandalwood, frankincense and labdanum base gives an aroma of fine dry Japanese style incense imbued paper. This is a spectacular incense floral scent that maintains a purity and lightness of being that is uplifting to be around. I expect to see kimonos, hot tea and gently bubbling waters in the garden when wearing this one. The name Nightengale and the imagery on the bottle does not give a hint at the wondrous mystical dry floral incensed woods that follow after slight application. This is a beautiful fragrance that even though is lightly floral I consider it perfectly unisex.
A lovely floral, fruity fragrance. Sweet, simple, summery, and flirty. A casual scent to accompany a halter dress and sandals. Big floppy hat, optional.
A summery, floral delight! Powdery, girly-girl, and fun. Just a hint of darkness as it dries down. Light, delicate, feminine.
A Review of the Original Vintage Version made by Yardley:
An opening blast of awesome quality: bergamot, lots of beautiful, orange, a touch of lemon, and some verbena in the background: a paradigmatic chypre opening if there ever was one; crisp and refreshing a Cologne this one truly is!
The drydown develops a gorgeous lavender note, as if freshly picked in the garden, intense, very - typical. This lavender is very close in quality to my benchmark lavender, which is Old English Lavender from the same house. Clary sage, geranium and a woodsy-herbal undertone follow the traditional route in a thoroughly convincing manner.
The base adds a - slightly earthy - vetiver, and, besides a gently crisp patchouli, also employs a lovely oakmoss; but it does that very sparingly. Whilst many oakmoss-based fragrances derive their allure from the full-throttle release of its mossy-spicy sharpness in an unfettered manner, here the oakmoss is applied in a nigh-homeopathic dose like seasoning in an already rich and tasty dish.
I get moderate sillage, very good projection, and a stupendous longevity on twelve hours on my skin - an utterly incredible performance that is unbelievable for a humbly labeled "Cologne."
This spring cent for warmer days is a seminal chypre, less harsh than many contemporaries due judiciously sparing application of the oakmoss and the comparative smoothness of the patchouli. I personally and subjectively would have preferred a bit more prominence of the oakmoss, but its sparing use in this composition results in an objectively convincing result nonetheless.
The high natural quality of the ingredients is beyond doubt, as is the perfect blending. Direct, unfussy, upright and supremely crafted in the traditional way - a very fine example of British Perfumery. 4.25/5.
It shares many of the singularities with the other fragrances from this line. The opening is tough, some kind of vinegar that lets you think the fragrance has gone wrong. Then, you feel like a veil is coming around you. It goes spicy, sweet, soft. I could smell vanilla and pepper around the wood for some minutes. It would have been gorgeous if it stayed like this. But the spices quickly disappear and leave a soft, beautiful but very simple wood, with powdery iris notes. Longevity is huge, and when you think it's gone, you get whiffs of it. But sillage is too short for such an expensive fragrance.
Test it, buy it if you can afford it, it's very good. But it's not worth the price for me.
All work and no play? It makes Jack a dull boy. Give Thierry Wasser a holiday! Guerlain couldn't find the energy to make a new perfume. Do they need shots of B12 or something? I wanted Mon Guerlain to make pots of dosh to secure the future of Guerlain classics and it's insipid, not ghastly, just dull.
This is a very short thumb that I put up. It's not a bad fragrance, but it's not spot on. To me, macadamia smells almost like foie gras. This scent gets the creamy texture of the nut, the nut feel, but it's way too sweet for me to recognize macadamia. It goes towards tonka and vanilla. Longevity and sillage are good. It's a fun fragrance that could easily be used as a base for something else.
One of the first perfumes I ever purchased - almost a decade back. At that point of time, I had tried Armani Code and liked it a lot. However, being a student - I couldn't afford it. Whisky Black smelled good enough to my then-untrained nose, and for some reason it was to be a substitute for Code.
This started off with some generic fresh citrus notes including orange, before a rather faint and generic woody-patchouli kicked in after 30 minutes or so. The cash would always run out by the end of two hours.
The price was modest enough that I'd overlook all such shortcomings - then and today.
A random array of synthetic smelling 'fresh notes' desired to create an aftershave effect, but in reality ends up smelling like zombie juice. There is an initial burst of nondescript freshness before a luminous and chemical patchouli-incense takes over that's nearly nauseous. In fact, this is one of the very few perfumes I had to scrub off.
Sillage and duration are fair, but that rather adds to the misery. I imagine a more natural version of this (perhaps a little more diluted and airy to yield a crisp EdC effect) could be worthwhile. Just an astonishing abomination in its current self.
The bottle is cool.