Fragrance Reviews from August 2008

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    Vétyver by Roger & Gallet

    A wonderful light vetiver – fresh, bright, clean and green. This is what cologne splashes are all about: A graceful and full citrusy opening – short lived, and beautifully balanced with the nimble, clean, light vetiver that forms the basis of the fragrance. Then the florals of the middle, assisted by cedar, takes over the balancing act with the vetiver. Finally a super-quiet semi-sweet base with a little vetiver, a bit of tonka and touch of amber is formed; I would guess that there’s a very small touch of incense in there, too. All the accords of the fragrance are subtly presented with clean, interesting, lively notes… As a sillage producer, the fragrance settles down extremely quickly, but it becomes a lively but discreet skin scent that holds on the skin for a couple of excellent hours.

    23rd August, 2008

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    L'Homme Essentiel by Roger & Gallet

    This is not at all what I was expecting from Roger & Gallet. I was expecting something a a bit nichey or, more likely, cologne splashy. This smells like a fragrance that should be named after an automobile – a big, ugly, expensive, military type automobile. L’Homme Essentiel is sharp, mediocre, copy-cat, and synthetic. It’s one of those modern fragrances I’ve smelled a couple of dozen times under a couple of dozen names. It opens with that mediocre citrus / lavender / herbal opening that so many of the mediocre fragrances seem to love. I don’t – love it, that is: Even the Cuba Paris by Parfums des Champs (the company with the cigar bottles) managed that particular opening accord better than this fragrance does. L’Homme Essentiel doesn’t seem to have any florals, or anything to smooth it down or round it out: All I get from the top two levels are those sharp plastic accords with the herbs in the top being replaced by the spices in the middle with no improvement because of the replacement. It gets a little better with the drydown, when some woods sidle into the pyramid, but this is not enough to save the fragrance. L’Homme Essentiel does have lasting power. I understand the need for companies to expand their portfolio offerings to gather in new customers, but this is the wrong way for Roger & Gallet to go as far as I’m concerned There have been too many olfactory insults of this sort already.

    23rd August, 2008

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    Acqua Classica by Borsari


    Borsari Acqua Classica de Parma is very much like a classic citrus splash in eau de parfum strength. It opening is composed of the typical citrus (lemon and orange) and herb (sage and thyme). The herbs are a bit earthier and less refreshing than the rosemary, basil, or mint versions that are a little more prevalent. The middle turns quite spicy with pepper predominating the accord; it has a weak geranium note in the background, and though it tends to get a bit spice – cabinet – spicy, it is rather pleasant although it isn’t anywhere near as interesting as the top or the base notes. The base has one of the few leathers I can enjoy, and it is beautifully accorded with the oakmoss and vetiver. In spite of Acqua Classica being a EDP, it is a pleasantly soft and light fragrance perfect for warm weather. I enjoy this version immensely, and it has the added value of possessing much more longevity than normal for cologne splashes because it is an EDP. It is an impressive, distinguished, and elegant fragrance and it has the added and always appreciated benefit of being affordable. (Edit of 28 August 2008 review.)

    23rd August, 2008 (Last Edited: 22nd October, 2009)

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    Vicolo Fiori by Etro

    Top notes: Tangerine, Bellflower, Lily of Water
    Middle notes: Lotus, Jasmine, Cyclamen, Fruity Notes
    Base note: Ylang, Musks, Wood, Amber

    I just don’t know how to wrap my mind around this floral fragrance. It’s traditionally structured and intentionally old fashioned, yet it’s modernly synthetic: It is a bit surreal and a bit Victorian flower shop. Within the core of its abundant floral structure there is a captivating elemental floral uniqueness that is almost out of place: I believe it is the lotus that takes center stage in this accord, and I find its use enjoyable. The first two pyramid levels last a couple of hours before the fragrance turns to its musky, ambry dry down – which is so very traditional. It’s a pretty fragrance – not beautiful – it’s a bit gaudy, and more than a bit synthetic. It holds my interest with this note or that... but it just feels so interiorly conflicted that I feel rather sorry for it, like for a friend who is obviously going through a period of confusion. It’s either a work of art that I am not understanding or else it’s … well, I’ll just say it’s a pleasant fragrance.

    23rd August, 2008

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    Royall Mandarin by Royall Lyme of Bermuda

    The opening, heart note, and drydown of Royall Mandarin present a possibly (but not really) pleasant orange / mandarin note. It lasts for twenty minutes if you’re … oops, I guess I don’t really want to say “if you’re lucky”: It’s more likely that you’re lucky that it doesn’t last longer… I’m not fond of this particular mandarin note – it has no personality, so there’s nothing else to judge by except longevity, which in this case is… very short.

    23rd August, 2008

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    Heathen by The Goth Rosary

    My first thought: potatoes beginning to turn rotten. Then it switched to smelling like a particularly virulent form of mildew. It stayed that way for five or ten minutes before it lost that disagreeable aspect. What was left was a definite patchouli and a possible sandalwood (not a very high quality sandalwood). The problem with Heathen is that the opening levels are annoying, and when it becomes unannoying, it is weak and boring: Heathen, after its failed attempt at Luciferian drama, becomes a short lived, soft generic wood skin scent. Sometimes these heathens just don’t live up to their paganish reputations.

    23rd August, 2008

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    Seattle Rain by The Goth Rosary

    Fresh and clean is right: Smells like a soaking rain. I get a salt note as background to the subtle ozonics… and that’s about it. It’s a competent scent but not what would be called complex. I’ve smelled scents like this before so it isn’t exactly unique. I like it but I’m unsure of what I would do with it: I don’t have enough imagination to make do with ozonics and salt. I have a small decant of it so I’ll experiment – maybe inspiration will come…

    23rd August, 2008

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    Island Kiss by Escada

    notes de tête mango, orange, passion fruit
    note de cœur magnolia, white peach, transparent flowers
    notes de fond hibiscus, red fruits, blond woods, musks

    Lots of mango and orange in the opening: the white peach from the middle also makes itself known. The accord is tropical and not very sophisticated. I wouldn’t even say it’s pretty – just boringly tropical. It pretty much stays the same for the remainder of the fragrance because the fragrance really doesn’t develop with much variety. The base is not very different from the top – it’s fruity – even though there is a discernable spicy hibiscus and a light musky base. I don’t pick up the woods that are supposed to be there. Escada Island Kiss is cute and young and that’s about as far as it goes.

    23rd August, 2008

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    Chevrefeuille by Histoires de Parfums

    Chevrefeuille is a honeysuckle fragrance that begins heavily floral with the Histoire de Parfum’s signature herbal sharpness. I think the combination of herbs and honeysuckle enjoyable and an original combination. I’ve found the fragrance to be a shape shifter because sometimes the herbs appear to dominate and other times the honeysuckle takes over. So at times the scent is quite masculine and other times I think it’s a bit too feminine for my tastes, but in either case, it’s unique. Still, Chevrefeuille does not impress me. I don’t find as much substance in it as I have found in several of the other Histoire de Parfum fragrances. This one just doesn’t speak to me.

    23rd August, 2008

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    Ambre 114 by Histoires de Parfums

    Top notes: thyme, nutmeg;
    Middle notes: amber, rose, patchouli, sandalwood, cedar, vetiver and geranium;
    Base notes: ambergris, vanilla, musk, tonka beans, and benzoin.

    This is not your sweet, sweet amber. The top is herbal and spicy with its thyme and nutmeg: Normally I do not think of these particular notes as belonging together, let alone in combination with amber… but the accord does work beautifully. Histoire de Parfums’ Ambree could be considered an amber fragrance for those who don’t care for amber because the dry softness of this version of amber, along with the spice / herbs, downplay the abundant sweetness that is usually connect to amber. Even with the ambergris, vanilla, tonka, and benzoin of the base, the fragrance avoids the heady sweetness often attributed to amber. This is a very enjoyable and wearable unisex fragrance. It doesn’t have a strong sillage and its lifespan is a bit short, but it’s thumbs up all the way…

    23rd August, 2008

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    Naturelle by Histoires de Parfums

    That light herbal sharpness in the opening must be a signature of the Histoires scents: Now that I’ve smelled it for the fifth time in my number five Histoires’ fragrance, I’ve decided not only is it HdP’s signature, but also that I like it very much. I’ll be quite looking forward to it in the future. It adds a cleanness, a rusticness that is just plain lovable and uplifting. As far as where this scent is going and what it is doing, I don’t have a verbal handle on it, except that it fits its name and it is enjoyable in its simple naturalness. Fresh, uncomplicated, comfortable… I love what these fragrances do with that thyme / nutmeg signature.

    23rd August, 2008

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    Live by Jennifer Lopez

    Live by Jennifer Lopez is a cliché because it is so sweetly fruity flowery on the top and so sweetly flowery fruity in the middle. There’s no damper on the sweetness. The middle accord says red current, which should pull down the sweetness, but it doesn’t. Then, get a load of the base: caramel, tonka, vanilla and sandalwood. Would you believe that I don’t smell the sandalwood? Still, I wouldn’t blame anyone for liking it, because it isn’t synthetic or pre adolescent. I don’t think its sillage is excessive, and it has excellent longevity. If only it weren’t so darn sweetly fruity flowery.

    23rd August, 2008

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    Boss Soul by Hugo Boss


    Not a very complex or trend-setting fragrance—citrus, then spice, then strong on amber. It has a very simple and generic construction, quite synthetic but not disgustingly so. There is little refinement and even less innovation in the opening, and it presents a third rate anise / citrus accord. In the middle accord, the individual spice notes are neither clearly delineated nor refined. With the base, all that really comes through is a weak, common, amber note shadowed by…something else. The scent doesn’t last long. Boss Soul is rather typical Boss fragrance, but, instead of the usual thumbs down, I’m voting it neutral simply because it is better than many of the other Hugo Boss miscreants. (Edit of August 28, 2008 review)

    23rd August, 2008 (Last Edited: 18th June, 2009)

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    Mei by Alfred Sung

    Almost everything in this fragrance is floral or floral related. In the pyramid, the only non floral listed is musk. Mei certainly does smell like a bouquet of flowers, and it’s too difficult to separate out the individual floral notes. It’s actually a very pleasant fragrance, but there isn’t much substance to it. Florals can’t carry a fragrance without support, so it’s not surprising that I think it lacks complexity and depth. It’s more like a feminine cologne splash, and yet it lasts a little longer than most of those. The concept of Mei is interesting so those who like florals might find it worth sampling.

    23rd August, 2008

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    Floriental by Pecksniff's

    This is, without a doubt, the most edgy Peckensniff’s fragrance I’ve tested. It really gets busy doing a lot of neat stuff. In the intial accord, the orange and bay leaves combine to form one of those unique aromatic orange potpourrie combinations – quite cutting edge for staid old Pecksniff’s… but it doesn’t stop there: Soon it pulls in the pimento and cinnamon to add to the spicy aromatics that are holding forth, and my primary reaction is, “Wow… Pecksniff’s??” It gets better: Then the floral notes enter in – carnation and rose. I really don’t get much of the rose, but the carnation is delightfully spicy. Still not done: The drydown features patchouli and opoponax with their soft, rich, smooth near- powdery near- resinousness.

    Altogether, Floriental is an interesting, enjoyable experience. It is about as far as one can get from a delicate, transparent fragrance, yet it is not over-bearing IMO. It is rich and full. I think it is properly labeled as a feminine fragrance. And, as to its name, doesn’t seem either especially floral or especially Oriental. To my nose, it just doesn’t have enough sweet in it to be a candidate for the Oriental label. It has excellent longevity. This is a distinctive and excellent fragrance.

    23rd August, 2008

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    White Floral by Pecksniff's

    Seems like a very generic white floral fragrance – Pecksniff’s lists orange blossom, bergamot, ylang ylang, gardenia, tuberose, and jasmine. I’m not sure I can smell any of the individual notes except for the bergamot and the jasmine, and it’s a non-indolic jasmine at that. The top notes and the middle notes sort of act as one: I get both levels from the very first and about the only way I can identify the middle when it appears is that I kind of miss the bergamot. For the base I get a cedarwood, moss, and leftover floral in a pleasant skin scent. It has moderate sillage until the drydown where it becomes even softer. It seems to have decent longevity. These are good accords but there is nothing distinctive or special about it: White Floral is an okay fragrance, but it is too predictable and generic.

    23rd August, 2008

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    Chypre Green by Pecksniff's

    Captivating beginning with such an excellent aroma: Clean fresh citrus notes with just the right touch of galbanum to tint it little green… an aromatic, clear, fresh, and long-lasting citrus / touch of green… This is one of the more pristine citrus openings I’ve encountered. The top holds for a very long time for a citrus, seamlessly transforming into the lightly floral / lightly spicy heart. The heart floral is a bouquet accord – I can’t identify a particular note, except water lily, which I always find because it’s uniqueness. Although orchid and violet are listed, I don’t have an adverse reaction to them, as I usually do. In all, the heart of Chypre Green is an excellently presented unisex floral / spice at, but I find it just a bit on the boring side. Like the opening, the middle has quite good lasting power. The dry down is a discreet, smooth sandalwood and musk – quite pleasing and comfortable and with the best lasting power I’ve seen in a Pecksniff’s fragrance.

    Chypre Green presents a very attractive aromatic package, and although I’ve found several Pecksniff’s fragrances to be excellent in respect to the high quality of their accords, this is the first one I’ve found from this company that has very good longevity. I feel good about giving Pecksniff’s Chypre Green a thumbs up without a caveat. Oh, and forget the feminine designation… it is definitely unisex…

    23rd August, 2008

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    Natural Floral by Pecksniff's

    I get more green / citrus than floral, of course, I’ll admit that my skin often devours floral notes rather than letting them float away. The green accord that I get would be much improved if there were more of a floral feeling to give it more depth and interest. Alone, it’s rather boring and linear. After an hour, I get an identifiable gardenia note and possibly a geranium note, but they don’t seem to have much tenacity. I have a difficult time believing the extensive list of various notes that is listed in the pyramid because, neither on paper nor on my skin, do I get anything but a nice, unexciting green that is touched with citrus and haunted by a couple of transitory floral ghosts. As usual with Pecksniff’s (this is the eleventh Pecksniff fragrance I’ve reviewed), the base has little potency or longevity on my skin.

    Natural Floral leaves me a bit confused: I certainly wouldn’t argue with the “natural” part of the name, although I don’t know if it is “natural”; but I don’t get the strong florals that are suggested… my least favorite Pecksniff’s fragrance…

    23rd August, 2008

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    Eau de Rubylips by Salvador Dali

    Eau de Ruby Lips is lightly clean, warmly sweet, and refreshingly fruity, and it has a tiny bit of an exotic edge to it. It is a unique and an entirely enjoyable fruity floral: It has light sillage, it’s powdery. I like that it is unique and quite original (except for the approximately forty-two seconds it smells a bit like Light Blue), and I like that it is both fresh and a sensual. A drawback is that it has rather poor longevity. It’s an excellent little scent that is certainly worth a testing.

    23rd August, 2008

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    Design Attitude H by Catherine Memmi

    I’m not sure what to make of this. It is a very light tea scent, but to my nose it doesn’t smell like any tea I’m familiar with – rather sort of a “concept” tea. And there’s temporarily a kind of musty tinge to it with a touch of mold – annoying! The nutmeg appears to be traveling incognito as some sort of generic metallic spice, which is too bad because the nutmeg was the last hope of my experiencing anything of substance in this fragrance. The whole fragrance is understated, which is usually something I can appreciate, but in this case it seems vapidly sparse … metallically empty ...a hollow echo … plus… it has terrible longevity.

    23rd August, 2008

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    Il Mio Sogno by Borsari

    Having experienced the lightness of several other Borsari fragrances, Il Mio Sogno came as a complete surprise. Although still not overpowering, this one is complex, dark, edgy, and sensual. And it has in abundance two of my favorite notes. First, I love a competently presented rosewood in a fragrance, and this one does a brilliant job with that versatile, elegant, and somewhat exotic wood note; I also love the way the rosewood is combined with the coriander, and the citruses of the opening. The rosewood continues into the heart accord by combining with the florals: I get the hint of rose, but the strongest floral coming through is the gardenia, complete with all the indoles that that gardenia can muster. The indoles note is the second of my favorite notes. To my nose, the indoles form the foundation of the fragrance while the rosewood acts in combination with the indoles to create such an excellently elegant and sensual motif. From this point, the gardenia indoles gain control and the rosewood is gradually lost in transition. The top and heart have good longevity. In the base, the indoles from the gardenia continue and add a discreet incense to the accord. There’s a green vetiver in the accord, too, and a touch of moss to supply some earthiness to the mix. The base loses intensity, becomes a bit soapy, and becomes a skin scent that has very good longevity but stays extremely close – there’s no sillage at all. I think that this fragrance is reminiscent of the ‘40s feminine chypres; but even with its older heritage, I wonder why it is not better known. I really love it.

    23rd August, 2008

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    Notte Romana by Borsari

    Notte Romana is a rather nice scent except that I dislike the use of galbanum in it. The galbanum in the opening seems to overbalance the florals – I totally enjoy the florals and wish I didn’t have to smell them under the galbanum. The florals that stand out to me are the lily and the rose. I do not notice any orris in the accord. The dry down is excellent: A very competent sandalwood joined to a nicely sweet tonka bean and musk. The scent is quite light but it has very good longevity. Notte Romana, like most of the Borsari scents I have smelled, presents a genuine Italian elegance in a discreet and refreshing package.

    23rd August, 2008

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    Matin Calin Sugar Milk / Lait Sucré by Comptoir Sud Pacifique

    I like this a lot better than I thought I would. I mean… sugared milk? How attractive is that as a personal fragrance? Well, it does attract: it’s fun; it’s unique; it’s enjoyable. There is a weak milk note, a weak sugar note, and a weak vanilla note, and they combine to form this light and delicious gourmand, I think the reason I like it is that its lightness doesn’t allow it to get annoying. Very linear, but that’s not a problem in this case. Somewhat feminine as far as I’m concerned, but I wouldn’t argue if others don’t see it that way. I’ve seen the comments about incredibly poor longevity, but it lasts about an hour and a half to two hours on my skin. I like it.

    23rd August, 2008

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    Antidote by Viktor & Rolf

    I find Antidote a very enjoyable fragrance. To my nose, everything centers on the woods of the base. The woods are present from the opening: woods highlighted by citrus, mint, pepper, and spices. The citruses are gone quite quickly, even for citruses – probably because they are so easily overcome by the stronger wood and spice notes. The spices –cinnamon and nutmeg – hold the middle for a very long time while the florals stay undifferentiated in the background. There is an abundance of notes in the base and the cedar, sandalwood, and guaiacum join with the patchouli and labdanum to provide a rich, woody, incensy ambiance. The wood, patchouli, and amber of the base have been with the fragrance from the start, but they come to full force in the base, which is filled out with tonka, and leather. I don’t get any vanilla or iris. Antidote is not really a unique fragrance, but it’s a excellently made one. It doesn’t throw a lot of sillage, and I am happy about that because I like keeping the richness close to me and not broadcasting it. Antidote also has excellent longevity: It is a subtle, rich, warm, and elegant masculine fragrance.

    23rd August, 2008

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    After My Own Heart by Ineke

    I grew up in a house surrounded by lilac hedges. Without a doubt, this is the best, most true lilac fragrance I’ve experienced – I’d say a perfect rendition of that phenomenal blossom. No need to describe the scent because Ayala has offered the definitive description already. I’d like to add, though, that the lilac note responds just like the lilacs of nature – it carries a stronger sillage than its light, delicate, minimalist persona would indicate: Such a lovely feminine scent… awesome and long lasting.

    23rd August, 2008

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    Derring-Do for Men by Ineke

    A little bit citrus, a little aquatic, quite a bit of metal – all rounded off in a light accord… and it makes for a catching and attractive masculine opening. This is one of those ultra clean scents, and when it reacts to my skin, I get Chrome flashbacks. This is not Chrome…it’s more refined and subtle and not as metallic. I actually have enjoyed it after several wearings without losing my appreciation for the pleasant cleanliness of the accords. I’m not sure what it is about Derring-Do, but it has a uniqueness that escapes easy classification. It’s light, it’s clean, it’s a bit metallic, and it has quite good longevity, but it belongs to the aquatic genre, which is not a favorite of mine. This one is about as good an aquatic as I’ve tried. It deserves a thumbs up for its refinement and competence if not for its genre.

    23rd August, 2008

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    Baldessarini Ambré by Baldessarini

    I agree with MMM that it is basically Boss Bottled with a splash of amber. I don’t like it as well as Boss Bottled because Baldessorini Ambre substitutes leather and violet for wood and geranium… Bad choice as far as I’m concerned: For a synthetic fragrance it’s better to stick to notes that have a broader range of acceptability than leather and violet, which are trickier to use than geranium or wood. I liked the original Baldessarini and with it, I thought that Hugo Boss was seriously attempting to improve the quality of their fragrances. Baldessarini Ambre kind of shows that that isn’t true. This is another copy of a hundred other fragrances out there. Poor longevity.

    23rd August, 2008

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    Dunhill Pursuit by Dunhill

    Opens green and fruity, including pineapple. The accord gives the suggestion of the tropics, but doesn’t go all exotic on the skin. The mid notes get nicely spicy. The fragrance dries down to a very subtle wood and amber that has almost no presence at all. The accords in Pursuit are rather nice, but there is too strong a synthetic tang to them for me: It wouldn’t be a bad fragrance for someone that doesn’t mind the plastic background. Pursuit has about average longevity.

    23rd August, 2008

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    Olive Leaf by Thymes

    It’s kind of green / light woody. The green doesn’t really remind me of olive leaf and the wood is a bit coniferous. It’s quite lively in a neutral, natural way. I agree that there’s some pepper in there, too, and it all comes together as a scent that exhibits genuine bits of presence and masculinity. Linear, of course, and somewhat short lasting: It’s still a worthy fragrance.

    23rd August, 2008

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    Un Parfum des Sens et Bois by The Different Company

    Quite intriguing for the first four minutes: black pepper, and citrus presented in a unique aromatic accord. I notice the citrus primarily because I’m looking for it. The (beautifully presented) pepper aromatics dominate to my nose, and, for a while, convince me that I am going to enjoy this fragrance. But that’s gone all too soon. The top notes fade out almost immediately – sucked into the black hole of my skin. The heart notes that replace them are barely competent. The violet is so obscure that it doesn’t even annoy me as violet leaf often does. The spices and greens form a texture that is pleasant but I don’t find it at all unique except for a note in there that I am unable to identify but I quite enjoy – perhaps it’s the elemi. I get very little patchouli in the base. The base’s cedar and incense finally break through the genericness and provide an implication of something great, but the greatness simply doesn’t happen for me. Un Parfum des Sens et Bois seems unable to grab enough identity from my dry skin. On the whole I find Des Sens & Bois well constructed, but it is ultimately a disappointing offering of unfulfilled potential, and that is my typical reaction to many of the fragrances from this company.

    23rd August, 2008

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