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Come La Luna by Bois 1920

Hyper classic (neo classic) spicy "forbidding" composition with a classically chypre aura not so far from historical pieces of "Baroque" from Aramis (JHL, Aramis, Aramis 900), Guerlain (Derby, Mitsouko), Ysl (Opium), Estee Lauder (Youth Dew, Azuree Pure), Genny (Genny Classic for woman), Piguet (Bandit), Gres (Cabochard) and "stuffs" like those. Actually Bois 1920 Come la Luna seems to "assemble" in its body several "facets" from almost all the previous old-fashioned concoctions. This fragrance is a classic mossy-chypre with plenty of spices, an hyper hesperidic/aromatic/piquant opening, a structural earthy-spicy patchouli surrounded by aromatic elements and "divinely stuffy" floral notes (jasmine in particular) and with a soapy-animalic-resinous-vaguely leathery base. Basically an old school spicy/animalic chypre with subtle final leathery accents (a fragrance, in its top and core, really close to the Aramis by Aramis's first and central stage- slightly more floral and milder). In particular rosewood, oakmoss and patchouli are pushed up and "spiced up" by plenty of cloves and pepper. Finally ambergris, honey, may be further animalic elements, jasmine/ylang-ylang, a whiff of frankincense and oakmoss swirl around a central "vintage (spicy)" patchouli in the classiest of the valzers a la Opium, Bandit or Aromatics Elixir. Not an original creation but a well appointed homage to a precious "pictorial" left back "ambience"(cultured, spicy, exotic and mystic) that will never anyway be out of style.
24th May, 2015

Dunhill Fresh by Dunhill

Smart but lazy. What a shame. Dunhill Fresh could have been a really good perfume for me, if they just put some more effort in it. It is basically a violet-centered mix between a brighter version of Dior’s Fahrenheit crossed with Jil Sander Man; sort of greener and more “aquatic” than both, with a really nice soft leather base note and a smooth powdery accord of violet and green stuff. A sprinkle of woods and that’s it. So there is this kind of dark, really mellow and comforting smooth base of powdery synthetic leather with a really enjoyable and refined wood accord, topped with a sort of damp green accord of grassy citrus and herbs. So far so good, so where’s the problem? The problem is that for some inexplicable reasons, it all smells deeply, desperately lifeless and pale for me. Maybe the materials are cheap, but more than that, in my opinion it feels like if they had these two nice “ideas” to develop – something leathery-violet-rubbery, something grassy-aquatic-musky – and at some point they just slapped one onto the other and bottled the concoction as-is, without really caring to “tune in” the notes together. So you get this blend which seems containing two separate layers which proceed in a parallel way rather than blending, like if you layered two different perfumes. And they end up in taming down and annihilating each other. That’s a shame because you feel they would go well together, with just some more tuning and some consistency to really become “one” – and a quite good one. Instead here it all remains kind of uneven and patchy in my opinion. Not a complete disaster, though: as-is, it’s a decently nice, classy, warm and unoffensive office-safe perfume with an elegant and discreet projection close to skin (and a crap persistence). Nothing really “fresh” for me, but bright in its own way. Just way duller than it may have been with just a little more effort.

6-6,5/10
24th May, 2015

Trèfle Pur by Atelier Cologne

Trèfle Pur opens with a pleasant and quite old school citrus-woody-musky structure reminding of any classic masculine eau de cologne – from 4711 to several designer “eaux” (Hermès, Cartier, Dior, Rochas...). Citrus, neroli, green notes, woods, something musky-resinous: as much good as more conventional than ever. The only difference here for me would me initially a subtle and quite nondescript sort of humid grassy-earthy note that I can not identify clearly, which provides a peculiar (and honestly, just partially pleasant) sort of damp, sultry, sort of “vegetable” feel that reminds me of the infamous “spinach” note of Guerlain’s Coriolan – just a bit more pungent and cheaper here. This, and a light pastel hint of violet. Finally as minutes pass the cardamom note emerge with its enveloping spicy warmth well blending with an equally “emerging” note of vetiver, and that’s it for a couple of hours until the very final drydown arrives – a really light and quite pleasant sort of “dusty” and clean woody-soapy accord. Softly bracing and classy, and also quite well persistent. But yet not enough not to make me consider Trefle Pur a bit uninteresting overall, as it smells basically like any (cheaper) designer with these same notes, and I wonder who on Earth would pay 65 EUR for 30 ml of this zesty dullness; but fairly nice per se.

6,5-7/10
24th May, 2015

LAVS by Unum

Ok ... it seems that in Italy live only Catholics excited persons!
However, I can read things as this concept and do not smile, with regret!

http://www.unumparfum.com/

“UNUM talks about the Spirit. Not only about spirituality.
UNUM is a wet tissue in gold,
scented of colors, dense taste with your eyes closed, Painting olfactory ego,
Music that builds fragrances of images, Architecture of the Spirit.
UNUM is Art. And art does not feel border closures or censorship.
Precisely because of its uniqueness, Art is a universal language.
UNUM wants to be this Universe.”

Filippo Sorcinelli is definitely a capable designer, chronicles define his “papal clothes” extraordinary!

This article tells of some Catholics who probably wanted Filippo Sorcinelli out of the religious circles, as he is also a member of (Arci)gay organization (a sick Italian history); in this article one of his dress is described as follows:

"A true work of art that packaged for the Pope: 27 large oval zircons topaz set in silver gilt, 256 crystal stones, 2186 round stones in gold bath in sizes from 4 to 8 mm. For a total of 2769 gems. For the decorations we were chosen six types of hems in antique gold. "

http://giacomosalerno.com/2013/07/29/lo-stilista-del-papa-e-dellarcigay-cacciatelo-ferruccio-sansa/

The designer of the pope now also creates perfumes! What does that mean? That opulence is considered sacred!
I believe that art is sacred and I believe that art doesn’t need opulence!

Finally, this scent is opulent, opulent, opulent and opulent too.
Personally I prefer the opulence of ideas and some bohemian paths.
A good Terenzi’s work in perfumery incense (elemi) concepts, between the mysticism of the liturgies and the fetishism of luxury!
24th May, 2015

The Botanist by MiN New York

Some would define this beet-root botany
as a green perfume!
Some would define this pure monotony
as a green smoking room!

HOW TO USE THIS PERFUME
Caution: Do not exceed the recommended doses

Mouthwash: the recommended dose is 2-3 daily gargling with 10 ml of mouthwash.

Oromucosal solution: the recommended dose is 2 sprays 3 times daily taken directly to that area.

Warning:
do not exceed the prescribed dose unless recommended by your physician.

Warning bis:
It isn’t an oral contraception! But If you put this perfume on and ask a girl to have sex with you, she says “no!”.
24th May, 2015

Onda Parfum Extrait by Vero Profumo

Today I was walking in the park with Ogma, my dog! A man of seventy years old was painting the landscape sitting near a tree. It was not exactly a beautiful painting, but I was excited to understand that even at that age a person wants to get involved with something!

About Vero, I can say that I respect very much a person who has begun to make perfumes at his age! Wow! The licensee of this brand seems to be of Campomarzio70 of Rome, even though the brand is a Swiss one.
But to talk about Vero’s perfume I need to understand her ideas about perfumery. As she is considered an artist, it would very important for me to investigate perfumery’s bloggers opinions because contemporary bloggers play an active role in the process of constructing meaning about works of perfumery and art. Some artists often say that the viewer contributes to or even completes the artwork by contributing his or her personal reflections, experiences, opinions, and interpretations.
But in this case I found a beautiful interview by Alfarom, in which she is talking about perfumery and about her point of view too.

She said: “…the market is full of new products and is increasing daily. We learn of strange "shocking" perfume concepts with blood, semen, urine and other body fluids. After a while I just stopped thinking about it and do what’s right for me.”

MMM! She is talking about Sécrétions Magnifiques (2006) where Antoine Lie tried to give an olfactory idea of blood and sperm. This is an artistic idea! She is talking about Peety by O’driù in which one can put ten drops of his/her own pee! And also this is an artistic idea!
So, what is right for her?

“My goal is to make a good product, and not to be a famous perfumer. And my goal is to create the perfume as a “Gesamtkunstwerk”, with the right bottle, the appropriate packaging and at the heart an original emotionally touching scent.”

Following her speech, I think about the packaging of her perfumes: a standard old style bottle in a box type for watches! No, just a moment!

Gesamtkunstwerk (translated as: total work of art) is a term that was used for the first time in 1827 by the writer and philosopher German KFE Trahndorff and then used, starting from 1849, also by Richard Wagner, who included it in his essay Art and Revolution (Die Kunst und die revolution).
The ideal of Gesamtkunstwerk is enhanced by visual artists of the Vienna Secession including Gustav Klimt who design, sculpt, paint and decorate in view of an idealized fusion of the various arts. And He was even famous!
At this point, I wonder if people understand the meaning of their statements!

I focus on the scent! I quote an Italian blogger Jicky2:
“These perfumes are so memorable that we had forgotten that they existed in the closet ...
Really, the niche children love her, they make a lot of pictures with the old woman, who looks old... But, who cares, a nice review of 4 perfumes is everywhere.”
http://jicky2.blogspot.it/2013/06/cosa-ne-pensate-di-vero-kern-ops.html

Wath I think about this perfume?
I think this perfume borders with an insecticide! Perhaps that smell served to her to tell the poetry of marine pollution, in a total vision of art. Or maybe it's the smell of tiny flowers caught in a romantic flowered field in Switzerland before the arrival of those of Ricola’s candy.. When they arrived, there was not even a flower, and even grass! They could not make their CHRÜTERCHRAFT candy! And now a lot of people have hoarseness and cough!
Why not try to paint?
24th May, 2015
drseid Show all reviews
United States

Lômusk by Santi Burgas

Lomusk opens with relatively transparent synthetic musk, quickly adding in a slightly sweet fruity accord before moving to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart the synthetic musk and modestly sweet fruity accord co-staring pair remain as salty synthetic ambergris begins to creep into the mix. As time passes the salty faux ambergris becomes the sole star of the composition as it grows leaps and bounds in its intensity with the original co-starring pair now all but absent. During the late dry-down the salty synthetic ambergris remains star as a brunt rubbery undertone joins in support late through the finish. Projection is on the low side of average, but longevity is outstanding at about 15 hours on skin.

Lomusk really is a poor name for this composition as the real focus is ambergris. There really isn't much to say about the development as the composition stays relatively linear throughout, keeping the focal ambergris in the spotlight, featuring its salty aspect quite heavily. This is kind of the base you might expect in a lot of ambery aquatics and the like, except many of those have a lot more going on to keep one's interest where Lomusk seems to really just be a faux ambergris base sold as a standalone composition. One should keep in mind that Santi Burgass compositions are supposed to be able to be worn combined just as readily as by themselves, and Lomusk is probably the most obvious candidate for this kind of use. That said, as it is sold as a standalone composition it will be evaluated as such, and when looked at this way it is a simplistic synthetic salty ambery concoction that is relatively unappealing. The bottom line is the 89 Euro per 50ml bottle Lomusk really smells like it should be called "Loambergris" to this writer, staying simplistic and boring through the finish earning a "poor" 2 stars out of 5 and a strong avoid recommendation. If one likes faux ambergris when used as a base, Lomusk may have some use with other compositions in the Santi Burgass range to complete the package and improve the overall result. This writer, however, is not interested in this kind of overly salty presentation in any form so it is a big miss.
23rd May, 2015

parfums*PARFUMS Series 1 Leaves: Calamus by Comme des Garçons

Comme des Garcons Calamus is a "bamboo based" green (or better...musky) concoction with a plain vegetal fleeting aura, a central mild-floral synthetic muskiness and a touch of soapiness. Frankly I dont find at all this juice refreshing (celery grains and angelica root fail in order to provide a veritable freshly botanic vibe) and on the contrary it seems to miss on my skin a really green-fresh or woodsy aromatic feel. I catch by soon the bamboo's "languid" influence (somewhat mineral, suave, mild, vaguely ozonic, floral, fluidy, "peaceful") which smells delicate, musky, vaguely lacteous-lymphatic and rosey. The greeness is just initial and it seems by soon floral and vaguely edible-culinary. My perception (after the ephemeral green opening) is by soon the one to catch anyway a typically synthetic/chic soapy-musky-rosey "atmosphere" (vaguely a la Eliee Saab Le Parfum) on my skin and a combination of synthetic ethereal (somewhat rosey) balmy notes, a touch of vegetal undiscerned "syrup" and patchouli. Is pretty perfect what rogalal writes before which I'm respectfully going to quote " It's naturalistic but doesn't smell like anything in nature. It's chemical but still smells like something alive". The dry down is flat and with a poor structure despite still suave and deliciously soapy-floral (a water-lily's presence?). Calamus seems a fragrance heralding a pure platonic love in the futuristic age of soul perdition, its aroma is evocative about left back diaphanous instants of purity emerging up from your fairy babyhood. Poor longevity on my skin.
23rd May, 2015

In Leather Man by Etienne Aigner

In Leather Man by Aigner is hands down the worst leather fragrance I’ve ever tried. Even taking into account the really cheap price, for me it is still just desperately obnoxious, and completely unworthy *any* price. It opens with a harsh, extremely artificial nondescript smell which I think should be aimed at evoking leather, while it clumsily smells more like a car under the sun – not a particularly rusty or dirty one, just a normal car with that really boring smell of plastic, metal, rubber, cheap imitation leather. I think I get some musk, some components similar to what other manufacturers know better how to use for leather accords, and something ambery; it may sound decent, but the result is just a disaster for me. It’s not leather – actually for me this is really nothing at all. The drydown arrives quickly, light and sweaty. Until now I used to consider as the “worst leather fragrances” the ones which just uncreatively reiterate the same usual aromachemicals (e.g. suederal, safraleine ecc.), but at least, they smell “leather”. This smells just nauseating nonsense for me. If you want to stick to this brand (God knows why) I recall Aigner Black being a little more decent and more similar to an actual leather scent.

4/10
23rd May, 2015

Smoke Essence by Goti

Smoke by Goti smells to me basically like Comme des Garçons Kyoto with a synthetic boozy-resinous note and something slightly fruity enhancing the warmer and sweeter side of (synthetic) incense. Balsamic and mentholated, smoky and sweetly warm, with a decidedly “aloof” and contemporary vibe as you may guess by the packaging. And a really nice, subtle yet surprisingly true to life and “living” woody accord. Really easy to like and wear... even too much, maybe; for this price and this market positioning I would personally expect something more than such a “friendly”, and honestly not that impressive sweet-minty incense. I mean: it smells great, refined and stylish, but also a bit redundant among the plethora of similar, and often cheaper offerings - and in my opinion a bit unnecessarily hipster too (this including the packaging and the retail channels they chose for distributing this – again, just a personal opinion regarding expectations vs. reality). The juice per se is highly enjoyable, bracing and versatile, with also a slight and I guess involuntary connection to Gucci Rush Men on the drydown – so yes, I would surely grab it if I found a half-priced bottle; it is just something a bit less “unique” and interesting than it may seem at first.

6,5-7/10
23rd May, 2015

Or du Serail by Naomi Goodsir

Why do perfumers, as the shapers of our consciousness, have such radically different approaches to the path of creativity? Simple, because they are not creative persons! They are domesticated dogs to different masters!

Naomi is a designer, an original one, as designer she has her style. Her thought is not a kind of approaching to her mindset, she is not problem-focused, she’s solution focused, and action oriented. This involves both analysis and imagination. In this case, she has analyzed and imagined her perfume, but was unable to make its design! For this the scent seems a way that she should go back to get to the end of the problem, to the solution: Or du Serail. It looks like a road leading to her and not to depart from her!

I don’t know if there is a mood in this perfume, as the harem, or the gold, or if she was thinking about Topkapı Palace! It is impossible to understand! This is my point of you: here are working a creative person (Naomi) and a partime superhero (Batman).
Naomi (and) Batman made a selectio of raw materials, here is the yerba mate (ilex paraguariensis)! It seems mate or something like this one! The result is the same of Zebra Jungle by Kenzo (1998)… The notes of bitter mate perhaps frighten everyone, and everyone seems to want to restore the balance of the perfume with tobacco or wood, honeyed scent and a little 'of synthetic flavorings to adjust the drydown! Zebra was focused more in citrusy and woody notes, but the result is the same nonsense. What mate need? Benzoin, tonka and ginger! This could be the canvas on which to express your art, Naomi.
This is the story!

"And that concludes our presentation of the Batcave’s team. Any questions? Any orders? Yes, you the chick with strange clothes!."

"So you say you know how to use the mate?”

“Of course, the bat-mate!”

“And your bat-cave is right under Bertrand Duchaufour ‘s house?"

"Yes it is, a right bat-observation!"

"And the only entrance is through a staircase connected to Bertrand Duchaufour ‘s house, right?"

"Bat-right again!"

"So... May be you are Bertrand Duchaufour, then?"

"Ah! MM! Well, that's an interesting bat-question with a pretty...HOLY SHIT SMOKE BOMB!"

Batman throws smoke bomb and runs off…

“I fear that we can forget the mate!”


23rd May, 2015

Join The Club : Ascot Moon by Xerjoff

Xerjoff Ascot Moon is surely one of the finest and classiest pieces of the Join The Club Collection. This fragrance strikes us by soon since it smells somewhat classic and lacking that typical soapy-spicy/exotic balminess characterizing almost all the further juices of the same Collection. Well it seems that the Ascot Moon's inspiration is related to horse Clubs and to the hippodrome's atmosphere. The opening is by soon classically hesperidic/aromatic and almost minty. It seems to assist to another ordinary eau de cologne's evolution (possibly bergamot, coriander, verbena and stuffs like these swirl in the air and it seems to detect a touch of vetiver too). Anyway, over less than five minute the aroma evolves significantly, we start catching by soon a rising pungent woodsy resinous presence (fir resins), a tad of rootiness (probably patchouli and cedarwood) and finally a musky accord of leather and mossy galbanum. The leathery presence increases its strenght along the way and it seems to be "supported" by red berries, smoke (increasing along the way) and finally a touch of frankincense. The leather in here is not so far (just a tad more prominent) from the Micallef Royal Vintage's herbal leathery combination (stout, earthy, still herbal-aromatic, spicy-resinous) while the whole accord seems to derivate its main inspiration from another fragrance yet, the "insuperable" Geo F. Trumper Eucris which has been along the decades source of inspiration for a huge amount of following olfactory "experiments". The resinous presence is notable in its combination of rubbery, incensey and sticky woodsy "ingredients" despite along the way the aroma starts turning out more and more smoky, dry and restrained. On the complex I find this fragrance quite well appointed, it is classy, really virile and more than distinguished despite we can find in here originality or much less uniqueness.
P.S: along the way, in its final trait of evolution, the "smoked rubber" vibe seems increased and this effect seems conjuring more than vaguely several Santa Maria Novella Nostalgia/Profumum Arso's nuances.
23rd May, 2015
drseid Show all reviews
United States

Lôjazz by Santi Burgas

Lojazz opens with a banana-like tuberose and relatively sanitized jasmine floral duo. As the composition moves to its early heart the tuberose and jasmine florals remain as co-stars, adding lemon tinged magnolia and green violet additional floral support with a slightly sweet orange flower undertone. During the late dry-down the tuberose, violet and magnolia vacate, leaving remnants of the jasmine to pair with traces of the supporting slightly sweet orange flower through the finish. Projection is very good and longevity average at 7-8 hours on skin.

After being relatively disappointed with most of the Santi Burgess samples I really had low expectations for Lojazz going in. I am happy to write that while Lojazz is not going to set the world afire with innovation or top quality raw materials, at least this offering from the generally disappointing Santi Burgass house smells good. Jasmine and tuberose very commonly paired in perfume, and Santi Burgass wisely goes with the tried and true for Lojazz. Even though the composition is supposed to presumably feature the jasmine with a name like "Lojazz," it is actually the tuberose that is more prominent to my nose through the mid-section. Joining the starring pair is key violet support. Most of the time violet comes off as powdery, but in this case the perfumer chose to feature its less oft used green facet, with the choice working here. The biggest letdown is the late dry-down as it primarily features the jasmine, but the ingredient is so sanitized there really is not a lot of character once the character adding tuberose is gone. At the end of the day, Lojazz is a pleasant composition that I certainly enjoyed wearing but as with the rest of the Santi Burgass offerings it just is not interesting enough to keep my attention long-term over other offerings in its crowded genre. The bottom line is the 89 Euro per 50ml bottle Lojazz is probably the best offering in the sub-par Loant Collection, but while it earns a solid "good" to "very good" 3 to 3.5 star out of 5 rating it just doesn't distinguish itself enough from the pack to keep one's attention long-term warranting a purchase. Minor reservations aside, Lojazz is worth a try at least for jasmine and tuberose lovers in particular.
22nd May, 2015

Cabaret Homme by Grès

So after YSL came up in 2003 with that fantastic time-machine called Rive Gauche pour Homme, here’s Bourdon composing one year later another decidedly old-school, completely non-fashion fragrance for Grès. The quality isn’t really comparable in my opinion, but neither was the price, as I guess Cabaret was way more cheap; the inspiration though, that was quite similar. Cabaret pour Homme is basically a sort of fruitier, slightly more “contemporary” take on Van Cleef & Arpels' Tsar: that same type of formal aromatic fougère structure, played with a couple of added or, say, “renovated” chords – notably fruits, a floral-green whiff, also something like amber or labdanum “warming” it up a bit, with also a subtle sort of tobacco-incense aftertaste. At once fresher and warmer. Take Tsar and imagine it sweeter, a bit younger and more “informal”. Basically like putting a baseball cap and a Supreme t-shirt on your grandpa. Openly “uncool” and slightly naif: I love that. The quality isn’t really top-notch for me, but it isn’t totally bad either; Cabaret smells nice and versatile, “manly” in a slightly dated way with just a hint of warmth and modern tints.

Also, it has a sort of really well-played feel of “luxury” which is as much fake as enjoyable, like a well-made counterfeit Rolex replica. Actually it’s fascinating as it smells at the same time heavily cheap on some nuances, but somehow the overall look is good and the composition seems clever enough to “disguise” the cheapness. Anyway I can see why this is overlooked, as it sits right in the grey nowhere halfway a classic aromatic fougère and a more modern “office-safe” woody-spicy-fruity-smoky scent for contemporary men; but it’s at once too modern and too sweet for fans of classic fougères, and surely still too outdated for the average contemporary taste. And there’s the “appealing-to-nobody” trap. It’s a shame because it is instead a really decent and enjoyable blend of these two inspirations, which makes you feel wearing something mannered, classy and mature enough but with a more relaxed, playful, less “austere” vibe. Miles away being a creative piece of art or a “compliment getter”, but give it a chance if you stumble upon it.

6,5-7/10
22nd May, 2015
Emoe Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Diaghilev by Roja Dove

i got given a sample of this when i got Roja Aoud, and was informed it was a stunning frag which i should definitely try.
Jack Hunters review below is spot on, i dont think i can add anything to it!
22nd May, 2015
Emoe Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Embers by Rouge Bunny Rouge

ive only got a sample of this, so its based on a very small amount.

Name sounds a bit strange, and probably slightly femme, but the scent itself certainly isnt, it would take a strong lady to pull this one off.

straight away from the moment you spritz, the incense smoky twist is noticeable, quite strong which may put some people off, but bear with it!

after ten or so minutes, it starts to level out, the strong bonfire incense flavour mutes down, and becomes nutty, still smoky, but not the sickly throat burning smoky you get with some. its also not the Tobacco smoke style, which sometimes can be ashtray like.

i find it just very slightly boozy, with a rum/whiskey type accord peeking out now and then, which is nice and subtle.

overall, its got a good head, hangs around for a relatively good time, but isnt a projection monster, which i think would kill it. its a fragrance you can wear out at night, and folk would need to be in your vicinity to smell it, and would probably find it intriguing, mysterious.
22nd May, 2015

Alfa by Mendittorosa

In the end, everything is a gag.
Charlie Chaplin
22nd May, 2015

RED + MA by Blood Concept

The secret to making money isn't working on an artistic project, it’s finding creative solutions for stupid people, and it doesn't take a fancy degree to do that. To get your creative perfume you need: money, PR, and a clerk/nose. Have you them in your pockets? You’ll also need more general financial advice on fashion as well as some money-making ideas for kids. The arts entertain, educate, delight, and enrich. This perfume has a great value, in fact it represents the focus of controversy, contention, and debate about artistic, political, cultural, and ethical matters.

MEMENTO
Tomorrow, at lunch with Santa Claus: vegan lunch for the reindeer.
22nd May, 2015

Mistero by Calé

All things need the right balance!

The disposable that has characterized the '60s has unaccustomed people to perceive and preserve the real value of material objects that surround us.
The old time, however, was characterized by actions and thoughts which affected strongly the sense of "beauty".

This perfume is certainly a great example of "disposable"! In the sense that once you've bought it, you spray it and then you throw it away as a natural consequence.
In reality, if you will throw it away you'll be doing good to the niche perfumery.

In Italy most of the current brands are inventions of prominent distributors. In fact if you are the number one in the Italian market with a scent of success (for example, Creed) and all the retailers want this one, you just have to invent your own brand and you will have already included a lot of shops! If you want to eat good and sweet cakes, before you have to drink even the bad medicine!

Talking about this brand: there are two creators, Cerrizza and Buxton: the first one is a poorly used perfumer, the second is a perfumer poorly used.
In this perfumes collection you can smell everything and anything with a sense!

Reading an interview to Silvio Levi (the brand owner) about this perfume: “I created this fragrance thinking of Barry Trost, American chemist at Stanford University, and the Nose Guy Robert father of perfumes such Equipage, Caleche by Hermes, Madame Rochas by Rochas and Dioressence by Dior. Two great persons that have impressed me for their humility and humanity and who have been able to raise me believing in me. A perfume dedicated to those who are rich in their inner and not need to boast, whose keynotes are: oudh and basmati rice!” (http://icon.panorama.it/beauty/made-in-italy-cale-fragranze-dautore/)

Basically, if you're rich inside, you can put on a scent with a traditional Thai dish smell! And your sex appeal would be a Mistero.
22nd May, 2015

Vanille Insensée by Atelier Cologne

Nevermind the insanity of the name, this is a pleasantly luminous vanilla-inspired scent with a fraction of the richness associated with the bean and none of the heft. A hint of spice, a touch of floral and a toasty paper-like crispness come together for a surprisingly interesting take on the genre.

Vanille Insensée smells to me like an improved albeit sweeter version of DSquared Rocky Mountain Wood with its warm floral incense vibes. Performance may vary with individuals but I can't personally fault its sillage nor projection as I find them excellent.
22nd May, 2015

Pomélo Paradis by Atelier Cologne

It's hard not to enjoy this scent. If you find regular grapefruit scents too sharp and zesty, Pomélo Paradis takes it down a notch with its juicy roundness. Like a refreshing sip from a chilled glass of lemonade, this is simple and unadulterated summery bliss.

Perfectly gender-neutral in appeal so top marks for wearability. Unfortunately it performs somewhat disappointingly on my skin, projecting minimally and dissipating all too quickly, drying down to a faintly vetiver-like skin scent within 30 minutes. Oh well, you don't always get the cake, I suppose.
22nd May, 2015

Indonesian Oud by Ermenegildo Zegna

Indonesian Oud by Zegna Essenze is different from any other oud I've tried. When applied lightly it is a very pleasant one. It has character, sings its own tune, imparts a difference to whoever might wear it. There is a tartness that I haven't seen in other oud fragrances, but the fragrance is excellent nonetheless. The notes listed are limited to: bergamot, amber, oud, patchouli, rose. I think I smell all of these notes. The aroma is sharp and medicinal with a warm leather note in the base. The bergamot - a Zegna trademark, adds a sangria tartness to the amber oud character while a hint of rose gives some warmth to the patchouli / oud leather aroma in the base of this fragrance. This is enjoyable but the intensity is either too strong at first, or too short lasting depending on the spray volume. If you spray less due to its strength, you lose some longevity. Best to go easy on the throttle with this bad boy and then refresh later if needed. My rating for Indonesian Oud is 3 / 5 stars and comes with a solid recommendation.
22nd May, 2015

Tabu by Dana

I tried the pure parfum and it turned this fragrance into a rich intoxicating, incensy, civet floral. Bold, yes. For evening only, yes. Slightly tawdry, yes. But in the right way, because this one has all the smolder you'd expect from this style, which means it can't be subtle. I tried less rich formulations and found them a little rough and cheap. But the parfum version... it becomes what it should be.
Older fragrances weren't skanky, they sizzled. In our day of sanitized hygiene, a fragrance that smells 'dirty' is daring. In the year Tabu was formulated, a fragrance that was overtly sexual was daring. I prefer this older style of naughtiness, this gaslight-tinged aroma of experience and availability. I think this one is the real deal, as it's able to send its intended message a century later, in an age of relaxed sexuality. Cheap... of course :) We all get its message.

It's longevity as a parfum is good. I think this is the formulation which is best, and probably the only one I would buy.
21st May, 2015
CoL Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Tommy Neon Brights by Tommy Hilfiger

This accidentally fell into my virtual shopping basket as it was less than 1/2 price and another £5 off. As always Lauder have produced a beautiful light peppery fragrance with a hint of ginger that instantly gives the impression of warm summer holidays. Very nice and will be a staple in my summer rotation for sure!

Just realised what it reminds me of, Chanel Allure Homme Blanche. Lovely stuff!
21st May, 2015

Lime, Basil & Mandarin by Jo Malone

The opening of Lime Basil & Mandarin by Jo Malone reminded me a bit of L’homme de Grès; that similar sort of really pungent, decidedly “virile”, kind of old-school and really bitter lime-green note supported by a woody, somber, almost chypre (in a really subtle way) base. At first the mandarin is not really there and neither is basil to my nose, but in a matter of minutes the bitter and fresh “head of the head notes” vanishes off and the fragrance starts to warm on skin – at that point you surely get a slightly sweeter, more aromatic-floral blend which seems comprising also something like neroli. Still no basil to my nose, weirdly enough I get thyme and sage more clearly; overall, basically a sort of aromatic green fougère centered on lime-orange with a subtle and to me, quite masculine woody-herbal-musky base smelling quite dark, slightly waxy and also slightly camphorous. And kind of “humid” too.

Also, I think I clearly get here the sort of aftershave vibe I get from many British fragrances based on classic structures (like those countless “West Indian Limes” colognes by Truefitt & Hill, Taylors of Old Bond Street and similar “gentleman’s grooming” brands) – although it may be just pure suggestion. Surely anyway something way less fresh than one may assume by reading the name. Overall, in my opinion Lime Basil & Mandarin isn’t bad at all, almost quite good actually; the only negative thing for me is that I get a whiff of something annoyingly and persistently synthetic that somehow “ruins the magic”. For me, citrus-green scents – more than others – need to be as much natural as possible to smell pleasant, fulfilling and compelling, to avoid smelling like floor detergents or cheap soaps. This doesn’t really make it for me, at least not entirely; it smells decently good, but I feel it would have been way better if part of the efforts was also financial - I mean in raising the budget and picking better materials. Still quite nice overall, just don’t expect something neither fresh nor particularly solid or refined.

6,5/10
21st May, 2015

Desire for a Man by Dunhill

This fragrance puzzles me. It smells at the same time pedestrian and refined,a bit tacky but immensely pleasant to wear. I think overall I lean to a positive opinion about this, making me think that Almairac did a laudable and really creative job with not-so-great resources at hand. What puzzles me here is that it took me quite some time to familarize with this fragrance and be able to even just get some of the notes. At first it was just an odd “whole” smelling at once massively generic, yet never smelled before – but I admit I may be just a bit relatively new to this side of “cheapos”, so probably it is just something I am not used to. Anyway what I get at the very opening is a thick, balmy, quite sweet but somehow perfectly wearable blend comprising fruity-powdery notes on a sort of dusty, dry, “greyish” amber and labdanum base. I get something soapy which I guess is rose, and something juicy and green-aromatic definitely smelling like apple. This first stage is quite bold and as nearly any other reviewer noted, quite heavy to the point of overwhelming. And honestly a bit cheap too, but in a tolerable, playful way.

The drydown on the contrary is really good, mellow and subtle but perfectly vibrant even after many hours. It is by far the best part of Desire for me, and it luckily arrives soon and stays there for hours; still “artificially” sweet but more leaning on a gentler, somehow “breezier” rose-wood accord, just scented with a restrained and perfectly gentle hint of fruit, echoing the dry, slightly sour woods of scents like Trussardi Inside Man, and the woody, slightly syrupy sweetness of Escada Magnetism for Men. Also, on the drydown there is a decidedly bolder presence of labdanum and amber with an equally sharp sort of soapy musk. I think I get something aldehydic, too. Again, really synthetic and almost tacky on one side, but inexplicably so enjoyable to wear, even refined. It may be just a suggestion, but I think I get some of the ideas Almairac used with more class (and probably more budget) ten years later or so for Bottega Veneta EDP for women; a really similar sort of sweet, floral, “gassy” dustiness almost “abstract” in its syntheticness. Not sure if Desire may be considered a “good” fragrance, all I know is that it smells really pleasant to wear, and overall quite distinctive and memorable. It reminds me of McDonald’s stuff – probably the crappiest materials around, but still I bet most of us love those sandwiches every time, and still pretty much nothing tastes like that (either in a good or bad way). Much powerful in both projection and persistence, so – use sparingly.

7/10
21st May, 2015
drseid Show all reviews
United States

Lôant by Santi Burgas

Loant opens with a blast of a vague synthetic blonde woody accord with a hint of underlying white floral jasmine. Moving to the early heart the vague synthetic blonde woody accord picks up even more steam, easily dominating the gentle nutmeg spice that joins the jasmine in subtle support with the overall effect showing a slightly boozy scotch-like facet to the synthetic woods. During the late dry-down the synthetic blonde woods remain the sole star, shedding their subtle floral and spice support through the finish. Projection is outstanding, as is longevity at over 15 hours on skin.

Another Santi Burgas sample, another disappointment... Loant can best be described in one word, cashmeran. Cashmeran is near certainly the source driving the synthetic blonde woody focus of the composition, and outside of it there really isn't much to talk about. On paper nutmeg spice comes more to the fore, but on skin it is pretty much all cashmeran, all the time. The only thing adding to the composition beyond the synthetic blonde woods is a slightly metallic white floral accord that comes off more prominent on skin than on paper, but always takes a back seat to the woods. I *will* say that the composition has some extremely impressive performance metrics, as the synthetics project and last big time. That said, if you are like me and really dislike the heavy use of cashmeran in compositions, excellent performance is a major negative. A friend recently reminded me that each of these Santi Burgas compositions is meant to be combined with others for a more complete experience and maybe Loant would improve if used with the others. That said, the cashmeran is so strong here, I can't imagine anything I could pair it with (Santi Burgas or otherwise) that would entice me to want to wear this stuff. The bottom line is the 89 Euro per 50ml bottle Loant is a cashmeran bomb plain and simple, and in the opinion of this writer that is a very bad thing, earning the composition a "very poor" 1 star out of 5 and an extremely strong avoid recommendation except for lovers of the primary ingredient who will near surely enjoy Loant immensely.
21st May, 2015

Polo Modern Reserve by Ralph Lauren

Neutral, leaning like.

There's something in the base that reminds me of two scents I do not like: Terre d'Hermes edt and Bond No. 9 Scent of Peace for Him.

It matches that with some woody sweetness that almost makes up for it.
21st May, 2015

Piccolo Amor by Cerchi nell'Acqua

Lovers of earthy-resinous "cultured/aristocratic" patchoulies....this can be your holy grail for real. Cerchi Nell'Acqua Piccolo Amor (nostalgic and candied as a childish dream) discloses the real magic of a ceremony at Court since is like you are immediately surrounded by dames, chandeliers, bas-reliefs, aromatic waxy candels, bronze armatures and by massive frames endowed pictures.
This fragrance is a perfect accord of earthy patchouli (spacious, vintage, organic, spicy, luxuriant, decadent), aromatic resins (honeyed amber, a minimal touch of olibanum, cool-minty forest resins) and musky vanilla. Scents a la Etro Patchouly o Kiori By Kiori jump immediately on mind but, while the Etro's one is all about a sharply exotic patchouli (just minimally soothed by a tad of balsams) and Kiori is pushing finally the accelerator on the woody vanilla theme, Piccolo Amor seems to set on skin the perfect balance between the two main elements (vanillic resins and patchouli), in here appearing at once resinous and earthy. I've tested dozens of scents based on this specific accord but I can dare to say Piccolo Amore is in the range of the very best, hours and hours of aristocratic pleasure, of "crystals", nobiliar luxury, dreamy nights, secret loves, whispers of seduction "wrapped" by the most mysterious of the nights at Ducal Building.
21st May, 2015

Ariel by Sammarco

From the notes I expected Ariel to be my least favorite in the Sammarco's range but it comes out I was wrong. Another extremely good fragrance and probably the most complex out of the four from this line.

The opining is a juicy citrusy-fruity thing pervaded by a sweet tobacco note. It quickly moves into a magnificent floral middle phase in which smooth white florals are paired to rose. There's also a soft powderiness going on, probably provided by the orris / violet combo, but nothing to worry about for me. Again, the overall quality is honestly undeniable and while I'm generally not drawn to these kind of fragrances, there's something so nailed about Ariel that makes of it something noteworthy. It's a familiar, classic accord that, at the same time, doesn't rely on nostalgia or old-fashioned themes. The white florals are plush and devoided of any angular facets but they still feel rough and visceral as opposed to overly polished and prettified.

The base breaks in pretty soon unveiling a sweet-n-dry sandalwood that I find completely intoxicating. Ariel strikes as an ageless fragrance, something that doesn't follow any trend or style, something that goes beyond genres while maintaining a relevant perfumey allure throughout. In this context, it's quintessentially perfumey and kind of a textbook-type woody-floral. My only complain about Ariel is that it gets pretty calm a bit too soon. Projection is really moderate after the initial phase even if longevity is decent, especially considering it's apparently an all-natural composition. With that said, I still find Ariel completely noteworthy and, composition-wise, probably my favorite in the whole range.

Note: It does miracles on fabric.

20th May, 2015
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