Perfume Reviews

Latest Perfume Reviews

Total Reviews: 138279

Bahiana by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

This is not my genre. The woods in this do not work for me.
22nd September, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Dolce & Gabbana Pour Femme (new) by Dolce & Gabbana

A delightful opening blast that is given a slightly restrained citrusy aroma - mandarin, whiffs of lemon and a good lashing of neroli - with a fruity undertone. The result is not overtly fresh, but more on the calmly refreshing side. In spite of the rather usual selection of components the result of mixing these is surprisingly beautiful.

The drydown develops a pleasant jasmine with an undertone of white florals, whilst the base steers into a sweeter direction, with a very balanced vanilla joining a marshmallow impression to create an olfactory desert that is never too sweet or cloying. This is due to the admixture of woodsy aroma that helps mitigating the sweetness.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a very impressive eleven hours of longevity on my skin.

This is a lovely scent for cooler summer evenings, belended well of ingredients of high quality and combining fresh richness with elegance. The performance is excellent. 3.5/5.
22nd September, 2017

Ferme tes Yeux by JAR

This is an animalic-lover's wet dream (or maybe just mine). Either way, this is the pinnacle of lush, opulent, gorgeous danger--a panther silently stalking through a dense and fuggy jungle of stargazer lilies, jasmine, and yang-ylang. The vegetation is overripe, decadent, and civet-laden thanks to the menagerie of musky mammals hidden in the foliage. Think Rousseau and Gauguin's jungle paintings brought to luxuriant, odiferous life. I adore this scent and will never own it since it is FAR beyond my (or any normal person's) price range. One of the most beautiful and sad realities of my perfumed life.
22nd September, 2017
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Aqua Allegoria Nerolia Bianca by Guerlain

This is the first non-vintage Guerlain I've smelled and I must say that I am not impressed. The fact that this sample accompanied a decant of ancient and gorgeous L'Heure Bleue didn't help. Wearing the two Guerlains on opposite wrists was like having a threesome with Daniel Day-Lewis and Huey Lewis. The comparison was, indeed, odious. The AANB is highly citric and smells like neroli and petitgrain and about a hundred other similar fragrances touted as antidotes to the summer heat. If a ubiquitous and feminine citrus fragrance is what you're after, then is probably as good as any, and undoubtedly a bit better than most. After all, it is a Guerlain.
22nd September, 2017

Wall Street by Victor

stardate 20170921:

Leathery, piney old school masculine.
But not too loud. Good for all scenarios and folks including vespa riding, non-fat, vegan, half cal frapuccino drinking , no-sock wearing folks. Sorry Dandydude.

21st September, 2017

D&G La Force 11 by Dolce & Gabbana

This is an oddball. I like oddball perfumes. It is a spicy food market, located near a head-shop. First I get a blast of cardamom and cinnamon followed by nutmeg. The pimento really stands out for awhile. I barely get any heliotrope or cypress. After a few hours I smell sandalwood, vanilla, and caraway. It's definitely different. It's cheap enough for over-spraying, when it begins to die. IMO it's more masculine than feminine.
21st September, 2017

Racine by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

Stardate 20170921:
Red non-argyle bottle:

Starts out leathery chyprish - sorta like Capucci PH vintage. I guess it must be the Moss+Citrus+Musk.
The effect doe snot last long and is replace by Vetiver and candied citrus accord balanced by musk (white I think)
This is the accord that goes all the way to the end. Vetiver gets more prominent as time passes.

A nice take on vetiver and a good fragrance. If you are looking for a vetiver centric fragrance this is not it. I prefer Guerlain, Carven vetiver. But if you are looking for a different take of traditional cologne go for it.
21st September, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Light Blue Pour Homme by Dolce & Gabbana

The citrus opening is not particularly riveting or exciting, but it is a solid yet rather generic set of top
notes of mandarin and of whiffs of lemony/ grapefruit components of medium ripeness; neither very sweet nor very acid-laden.

The core is much more nondescript; a mélange of nonspecific floral and woodsy component with a very synthetic and anaemic rosemary note - not unpleasant but not more than that. The base with its dull and anonymous soup of white musks and the failed laboratory attempts to create a mossy impression smells of what I imagine to be the bouquet of acid rain in a Petri dish.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

In this summery, albeit not very fresh, creation some credit might be due for the opening phase, but the rest is a highly generic and dull petrochemical concoction of questionable merit. Overall - not reaching beyond mediocrity. 2.25/5
21st September, 2017

Himalaya by Creed

White wax lemon snow
Scattered round an old wood shrine
By sharp icy winds.
21st September, 2017

Bazar Femme by Christian Lacroix

A well done fruity floral. The peachy note isn't too obnoxious. The base is rather pale. Overall it's breezy and delightful. The bottle and packaging are fun.
21st September, 2017

Aspiration by Louis Cardin

Super spicy, I finally pick up powdery saffron in particular. A classic fleeting herbal/aromatic dry opening (vaguely a la Paco Rabanne Xs or D&G Pour Homme) finally reached by soapy/musky/rosey resinous balsams with a powdery/chypre (brightly "laundry-detergent/toilette cleaner" and slightly talky) undertone. Dry down conjures me vaguely scents a la Dueto City Oud (but in a less resinous and synthetic way). In conclusion I detect a sort of harsher "hay/papyrus/pencil shavings-like" final twist. Not properly an olfactory "Aspiration" for me.
21st September, 2017
Oviatt Show all reviews
United States

Heritage Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

As a longtime fan of Heritage EdT (of which I have plenty of vintage), I was worried about trying the latest version of this; everyone raves about the vintage and I did not want to be disappointed about a EdP version of one of may favorite scents. In the end I got a bottle of the newest version (wood cap) and it is wonderful--richer and warmer than the EdT and I detect a slightly gourmand chocolate/tonka note--nothing like as strong as in L'Instant Pour Homme but present in the EdP where I do not get it in the EdT. The citrus and lavender opening is bright and wonderful and slightly toned down from the EdT. I have often thought that Heritage is the real Shalimar Pour Homme, much more so than Habit Rouge, and in the EdP strength I feel this even more strongly. Now I am on the hunt for a bottle of vintage....
20th September, 2017

Si Lolita Eau de Minuit by Lolita Lempicka

Smells like purple or black. Darker than original Si Lolita, for sure. I really enjoy the sweet pea note. The vanilla isn't over-bearing.
20th September, 2017
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Cologne Intense Collection : Dark Amber & Ginger Lily by Jo Malone

Basenotes also lists "Kohdo Wood Collection : Dark Amber & Ginger Lily by Jo Malone", so I'm confused about which one I'm actually sampling here. My small atomizer is simply labeled "Dark Amber & Ginger Lily / Jo Malone".
Whichever one this is, I'm addicted.
On my first sampling, I rated "below average" since the opening was overwhelmingly bitter woods. I just hadn't given it enough time.
As it develops over an hour or so, at least on my skin, it becomes lighter, powdery and intoxicating. A night-time, sensual fragrance for evenings at home. And contrary to many reviews here, this scent lasts and lasts on me, improving with each hour.
It's one of the stars of my small collection.
20th September, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Blanc by The White Company

Light and airy. A fresh orange-citrus opening that is quite restrained and unlined by a fruity impression.

In the drydown geranium and rose a set of floral heart notes, with touches of neroli present at times.

The base adds white musks and a slightly ambery finish.

The sillage is moderate, projection is adequate and the longevity six hours on my skin.

A nice, light and elegant summery vibe, nothing too exciting but crafted well. 3/5.
20th September, 2017

J'Adore by Christian Dior

A Snuggle dryer sheet that's been used to wipe down a potted faux rosebush with an anonymous white musk shampoo.

J'Adios.

20th September, 2017

Theorema by Fendi

I swore to myself that I was not gonna get on the Theorema train, damn it--the reviews, the prices, the hype, the discontinued status, and all the wailing and lamentation that comes with discovering a classic that's no longer made--that marvelous but devastating feeling of discovery and loss.

And then, like Pandora with the box, I sometimes poked around online at the minis for resale and wondered. Meh, it's a serious oriental, I figured. It'll be another Shalimar--no doubt something beautiful, but not exactly for me. I decanted my mini into a sprayer, gave it a couple of tries, and figured I was right from the beginning--a big, clanging opening, a tangy and fresh and very novel kind of citrus, caroling huzzahs of spices, and hinting at an even grander second movement with Ozmanthian statues lurching out of the sand, trains of camels and dancing girls, and a last act reclining on a dream of vanilla. If that had happened, I wouldn't be writing about Theorema right now.

Instead, Theorema does something that few perfumes constructed in this (relatively recent era) do: it downshifts into another gear entirely--and then *kicks it*. That richness that could support an upright spoon swirls away, and what's left is a sheer, gauzy, psychedelic golden space fever dream--that lasts and lasts and lasts and lasts and lasts and lasts. And I think that's what everyone moons about. Yes, it's exotic, and it smells like spice, and I vastly prefer it in cooler weather, but it never becomes a costume drama. It's just opaque enough to feel like perfume, while it remains translucent enough that it also somehow melds together with the wearer. This effect holds true in all formulations, and that may be the genie in the bottle--that mutually transformative power between perfume and self that I think that all perfume lovers--even the most jaded of us--never stop searching for.

I could try to describe exactly what it smells like, but the truth is that Theorema is constructed of familiar materials and smells--honestly, we all know what amber smells like; and if you're not familiar with osmanthus, you can find any number of people (present scribe likely included) singing its praises online. That part is all there in the pyramid. What's great about Theorema is the construction, the way that bits and pieces of fade and return and recombine into striking new combinations, and the way it does it all in such a lovely mezzo voce, never demanding, just hanging in there with you. Those key changes, those subtle switches of mood, from almost sweet to almost dry, and the way it hangs in there and dances between them tirelessly (and the way that, hours later, it slowly, slowly, spins to a stop and finally comes creeping down beside you on little cat feet)--that's why I think Theorema is great.

Buy the ticket and take the ride: those little minis are a steal, and they will not be there forever. But don't say you weren't warned.

19th September, 2017 (last edited: 21st September, 2017)

Heritage Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

The 90's Vintage EDP. Now you're talking. Think holding closer to the skin, intimate, a halo around the whole of you. Golden oil, slightly darker, vaguely dusty.
Like them all, bigtime, however the 90's Vintage EDP and EDT are so very Full Fat
Scrumptuous.
19th September, 2017

Missoni Parfum pour Homme by Missoni

Missoni Parfum Pour Homme starts as a revival (in a contemporary key) of scents a la Byblos Uomo original or Versus Pour Homme by Gianni Versace (glorious modern juices sice the moment of their inception) in order to gradually assume an its own darkly musky sporty evolution based on lemony patchouli, aromatic herbs and synth musk. Ginger, green lemon and lavender provide the sporty/fresh darkly-aromatic twist a la Badedas Noir. Some drier/soapier soothing amberish woodiness a la L'Erbolario Corteccia (probably because of the oak-note) emeges gradually but this scent is all about musky/herbal patchouli and green lime. A pleasant dynamic masculine modern fragrance but nothing more.
P.S: the "deep drydown" is eminently woody (kind of pencil shavings in vibe) and along this stage the scent losts almost entirely the interest on me.
19th September, 2017
Oviatt Show all reviews
United States

Bentley for Men Absolute by Bentley

Bentley for Men Absolute is the closest I have found to my beloved Gucci Pour Homme I--in fact, I like it even better! The woods and pink pepper and papyrus all point to the Gucci, but the addition of oud and ambergris in the Bentley actually improves this. Warm, rich woody incense notes prevail with less sweetness than the Gucci offering. This is very masculine, very sophisticated and very in line with the Bentley brand promise: Luxury and performance are complementary, not irreconcilable opposites. An irresistible combination.

Along with Bentley for Men Intense, this is one of my favorite recent releases, affordable luxury that delivers on all fronts.
19th September, 2017

Ma Bête by Eris Parfums

I love this strange little beauty! There is something about Ma Bete's vintage-y plushness that makes me want to wrap myself in it over and over like a warm and silky fur coat. The indolic jasmine combined with spicy woodiness make this scent deeply seductive and surprisingly chic, while its animalic essence adds a honeyed, slightly 'skanky' attitude that I adore. I swear I smell costus and civet in here--two notes that I love--and these combined create a naughty furriness that gives this fragrance its signature 'beastly' bearing.
19th September, 2017

Musk Rose by The Rising Phoenix Perfumery

At first sniff it is probably easy to write this off as just another oriental built around a typical rose-oud axis. But like any good tale it unfolds itself at its own languid pace with enough twists in the plot to keep even the most jaded of noses enraptured.

The star of the show is without a doubt the rose. It is front and center, an opulent red ruby of a gem with facets that shift from citric tartness to boozy-velvety musk. Teasingly faint nuances covering a range from earthy-woody to buttery-creamy to herbal-spicy suggest a possible inclusion of aged oud, sandalwood, even henna. But having experienced genuine deer musk I don't quite get the sense that there is any in here although it does get musky as the rose retires with the passing hours.

Musk Rose is a remarkable scent, one that seems to unfold in slightly different ways with each wearing. The quality of ingredients is top-notch. Given the limited volume of sample at hand I can't help but feel like King Shahryar at the approach of dawn, held spellbound by Scheherazade's final tale and deeply sorrowful as 1001 nights came to an end.
19th September, 2017

Diaghilev by Roja Dove

I have had a sample of this in a cabinet for years. Just tried it tonight. It is opulent & beautiful.
19th September, 2017

Polo Red by Ralph Lauren

One venti decaf
Red Berry Cool White Powder
Polo latte please.
19th September, 2017

Essence No. 7 : Neroli by Elie Saab

A FK study of Neroli. If you love Neroli you will love this perfume. Honeyed Orange Blossom with nuances of Cardamon and Ginger and the "Metallic" that comes off more like Chalk Wall to me.
Neroli has a natural counterpoint within it's note.
Used as a counterpoint in complex perfumes I see it as tremendously important.
Singular and as nuanced study falls flat for me.
19th September, 2017

Naja by Vero Profumo

I greatly admire this perfumer/house in the same way that I admire Bogue. Their scents are always vastly original and striking, if not always entirely wearable. I think Onda in its original extrait form was one of the true greats. I wouldn't rank Naja up there with Onda, in terms of unique and vivid oddness, but it is quite a bit more approachable, and for many wearers, this will be a plus. I love its opening: the deep punch of tobacco, but am slightly less enamored of its segue into melon and osmanthus. This is merely personal taste, and if you are a lover of these two notes, you will be a fan. For me, this scent is a bit too powdery-sweet and I miss the strength and depth of the animalics that can usually be found in her fragrances and that keep me sniffing all day in anticipation of yet another layer of the uncommon.

*Okay, that's what I get for writing a review after only sampling for a short bit. After two day's wear, I have done a pretty thorough (and slightly embarrassing) turn-around on Naja, and now genuinely love it from its tobacco-y beginning, straight down to its almost Tabac Blond-like ending. What on first sniff seemed powdery, now smells deeply and unctuously leathery and totally luscious (and surprisingly vintage-like) in its depth. After trying a larger amount and spreading it on more copiously, I am a complete convert. Full bottle, here I come!
18th September, 2017 (last edited: 19th September, 2017)

Kiehl's Original Musk by Kiehl's

Not my favorite musk by an stretch, but an excellent one for those whose ultimate musk scent includes flowers and a only pinch of something animalic in the base. This is a 'dirty' musk at its least offensive and could be worn by anyone, anywhere, and anytime. There is something here that smells a bit synthetic or sharp (that I think others might call 'clean'). This note bothers me no matter how many times I try to wear this, but I'm pretty sure this is a personal problem that won't disturb anyone other than me. I've heard that many famous folks wear this: Julianne Moore, for one, and each of them, in turn, describes this musk as attractive and enticing, and yes, clean.
18th September, 2017

Trussardi Uomo (original) by Trussardi

Stardate 20170918:
Vintage Version.

A leathery incensey floral Chuck Norris.
One of those fragrances that wear you.
Sillage and longevity is great.

It shares its DNA with VCA Pour Homme as well as Leonard PH. Similarities with Smalto, Montana and others noted in other reviews are apt.

One Million of the 80s, though 1000 times better. The development is great. Dries down to spicy powdery tobaccoy sweetness.

Nothing to dislike. Just get it.



18th September, 2017
Oviatt Show all reviews
United States

Mahon Leather by Floris

Mahon Leather is firmly lodged in Floris's masculine camp but the iris and jasmine give this more than a little feeling of leather feminines of the past like Cabochard and Bandit. There is definitely leather here, but it shares the limelight with a beautiful vetiver note, all underscored by a realistic saffron. Like most Floris offerings, this is well-behaved and gentlemanly. The quality of the ingredients is evident from the start and results in solid performance. Mahon Leather is a great scent for men wanting a classic, traditional scent with a slight floral/spicy twist. Women who love traditional leather scents and vetivers like Sycomore and the Guerlain vetivers will find this well worth looking into.
18th September, 2017

273 Rodeo Drive by Fred Hayman

I absolutely LOVE 273 Rodeo Drive by Fred Hayman. A beautiful floral that is quite strong and long-lasting. It is worth every dollar at this price. I wear 24 Faubourg by Hermes every once in awhile, and I get a ton of compliments when I wear that; however, 273 Rodeo Drive gets just as many compliments and it seems to last forever on my skin and clothing. I hope they never discontinue 273 Rodeo Drive, as I hope to wear it for the rest of my life! I LOVE IT!!!
18th September, 2017
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