Fragrance Reviews from October 2009

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    Pollux's avatar

    Argentina Argentina

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    Ô de Lancôme by Lancôme

    A green chypre: top femenine hesperidic notes leading to masculine mossy base notes. Ô's top notes do not feel as femenine as the ones found in many EdT's targeted to women, so men can wear this with confidence in the case they would be afraid of smelling girly. As a matter of fact, I find resemblances with Trophee's base notes (which, BTW, I find very similar to Homme de Grès): I'd rather wear Trophee, but being so difficult to find and so expensive, Ô makes a good alternative.

    24 October, 2009

    varvara's avatar



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    Kenzo Peace Vintage Edition by Kenzo

    a nice spicy ambery from the house of kenzo, very easily unisex. along the lines of molinard ambre, and bvlgari omnia. the latter are better than the former so don;t go out buying the kenzo if you have the other two. i;m not crazy about the bottle either. this had the potential to be something more interesting but it was played safe. ...but still not a bad frag at all as it does smell warm and ambery and the edt lasts long enough. this would have been a thumbs up if it had more kick.

    24 October, 2009

    montmorency's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Mitsouko by Guerlain

    Thank goodness the human nose, like perfumes themselves, has seasons and a chronology. The first time I tried Mitsouko I thought it was overpowering. I admired its class and structure without actually being able to stand it for long. A year later I decided - because millions of frag-hags can't all be wrong - to have another go. What a difference a year makes! I now understand the magic of it, especially the astonishing evolution of the middle notes just when you think you've had everything it has to give. If I have one complaint, it's that the citrus and bergamot top notes in the first 20 minutes or so feel shouty and unsubtle and utterly inappropriate to the luminous whole. For me this is a significant, though not insuperable, flaw, since I am normally willing to sell my soul for bergamot. Easily solved by spraying first thing, of course; by the time I'm brewing the coffee it has settled down to its sumptuous, subtle reality. I keep thinkng I will suddenly recognise that this is a dressy, evening scent, that I should go easy on it and keep it in reserve, but I'm relieved that aspect has not yet dawned - I wear it every day when I am not in Timbuktu. I sometimes spray it on last thing at night as a comforting soporific. Like a lot of the classic scents, Mitsouko reminds one of an earlier age, even if one is not in fact old enough to have any such recollection; at the same time, it has nothing of the antique or the old lady. My grandmother did not wear it - she was a lifelong No 5 loyalist - but Mitsouko smells like someone I might have loved in that way.

    24 October, 2009 (Last Edited: 11th March, 2010)

    sliver1's avatar



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    Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent

    Urgh! Hated it then, hated it since, hate it now! I've tried endlessly to work out why anyone would want to smell of this stuff - it's not a budget scent obviously, but it certainly smells like one. Up to a year ago I used to have to travel home on a bus that passed through a - Uhem - rather downmarket part of the city. Every single guy that got on STANK of it and that's the problem. It's SO common. It's like it's a code amongst young men that the only fragrances acceptable for REAL men to wear are Kouros or, almost as bad, JPG Pour Homme! (Oh, I'm sorry, my mistake. JPG Pour Homme is worn by every single gay man who likes to THINK he's straight-acting!) Please believe me when I say I'm not a snob, but this is a classless, redundant fragrance. Guys, just say no! Old Spice and Brut are preferable to this!

    24 October, 2009

    shamu1's avatar

    United States United States

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    Jivago 24k Men by Jivago

    I'm only giving Jivago 24K Men a neutral simply because it's not a particularly bad fragrance. It is, however, a completely unoriginal and uncreative scent. To put it in a nutshell, it smells as if Caswell-Massey's Newport were thrown in a blender with Cool Water, only ten times more powerful than either of them. Jivago is loud as hell, projecting a good ten to twenty feet for about twenty minutes after application, then diminishing to about a five to ten foot sillage radius. This isn't the kind of smell I'd want to broadcast, and I doubt it's one others would want inflicted on them either. It also has 24 hour longevity, which I think is kind of ridiculous for this kind of scent. If you like sweet, classic British style masculines, there's a chance you might like Jivago, but its oppressive sillage and intensity is not suitable for this kind of scent - the scent itself has a certain gentlemanly formality, but its brutality will clear out any ballroom or conference room you're in. The gold specks in the juice are also kind of silly.

    24 October, 2009

    ChrisJPN's avatar

    Japan Japan

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    Steam Aoud by Montale

    I'm sitting here with a new set of Montale samples, almost all have Aoud or Oud in the name (save for Attar) and Steam Aoud is the first one I'm trying. My previous experiences with Montale were very overpowering, too sweet, too aggressive - even for me. All in all, I've been disappointed with everything except Blue Amber, which still suffered from simply being *too* powerful. (It is so strong I can still smell it vividly the following day after a shower.) But, I'm pleased to say I absolutely love Steam Aoud. The transition is lovely and the resulting sweetness is gentle, smooth and very relaxing. If there are claims of amber in this then I can't find it. This is surprisingly fresh and quite lovely.

    24 October, 2009

    leporcepicdor's avatar

    United States United States

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    Fleurissimo by Creed

    I was very surprised with Fleurissimo: I had known that this fragrance was specially ordered by Prince Rainier to be made for Grace Kelly to wear on their wedding day, but I had the strangest feeling of déjà vu as soon as I smelled the very first whiff—it smelled exactly as I would have expected Grace Kelly to smell; it felt as if I was smelling an old, familiar smell that I associated with someone, only I had never smelled it before. I was very surprised at how well this fragrance personifies her—it's very beautiful: elegant, dignified, and distinctive—it's as distinctively and unmistakably Grace Kelly as her own picture.

    24 October, 2009 (Last Edited: 19 March, 2010)

    Grrlscout's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Infusion d'Iris by Prada

    Really disappointing! I love iris, but this particular scent comes on too strong in the beginning, as in sneezy strong, and doesn't stay for long. Probably my least favourite Prada scent to date.

    24 October, 2009

    Grrlscout's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Infusion de Fleur d'Oranger by Prada

    I didn't have much hope for this after the disappointment I had with the Iris infusion... but I was very pleasantly surprised! It smells like a wedding bouquet... fresh and floral, with the orange blossom solidly on top, and it lasts quite a while. If you want a simple, clean perfume that smells of exactly what's on the bottle, this is for you. Sometimes, simple is just what you're after!

    24 October, 2009

    Grrlscout's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    D&G L'Amoureaux 6 by Dolce & Gabbana

    The new D&G line is named for Tarot cards, and this one, The Lovers, is aptly named. There are male and female elements to the scent, and the scent itself seems to waffle between the two choices (male/female, spicy/floral, citrus/sweet) as it unfolds, taking the person wearing it along for the journey. On first application, it smells a bit masculine, a bit 4711-ish, but it then develops into something less masculine and more... in between. I really enjoyed wearing this, as every time I smelled my wrists, I smelled something different, at times the opposite of what I'd smelled before.

    24 October, 2009

    Grrlscout's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    D&G La Lune 18 by Dolce & Gabbana

    This scent seems to veer between the cool melony scent (and imagery) of the top notes and the light muskiness of the base. Moonlight falling on carnal and innocent activities alike - this scent seems to follow that journey as well. Light and cool, at times gently floral, at times slighty musky. A bit remote or faint, but welcome when you notice it. It isn't overly sweet (that's left to Number 3, the empress and Number 10, the wheel of fortune), but if you want a clean, fresh and slightly cool fragrance, this is perfect for you.

    24 October, 2009

    Agatha Runcible's avatar

    Australia Australia

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    No. 5 by Chanel

    This is for the EDT formulation, circa 2009:

    At first spritz I get fantastic aldehydes infused seamlessly with neroli and bergamot. A peach note is there as well. The peach is peachy-fruit, not peachy-sweet/predictable. This is infused with a pleasurable iris note. Beautiful rich Grasse jasmine comes to the fore and lingers and permeates into the woods below.

    Much later in the dry down I get a friendly and beautifully warm creaminess of sandalwood, vetiver, amber, oak moss, patchouli and nicely done vanilla. There are other things as well but I cannot quite tease them out. I can still detect that beautiful Grasse jasmine. I am really enjoying the character of the base, with the longevity enduring well into the next day.

    This abstract scent is thoroughly enchanting and never tires.

    If you are a fan of the Parfum formulation but until now, never understood how the two could smell of such different eras (Parfum 1920s, EDT 1950s/1960s), I strongly recommend a revisit. It’s clear that the EDT has been faithfully restored to the spirit of the original Parfum. I now consider this a long-term keeper.


    This is for the Parfum formulation:

    Sharper, richer aldehydes and neroli are immediate and engaging. The heady neroli and aldehyes are infused with a bergamot note. Rich Grasse jasmine begins to gain your attention and increases in richness. The neroli and aldehydes are seeping seamlessly through the jasmine and rose below it. The neroli and iris are still linking throughout.

    In the dry down I get a similar experience to the current formulation of No 5 EDT (see above) but more tightly structured and richer. There is also a hint of the rich neroli experienced earlier. One difference though is that the longevity of the Parfum formulation on me is fleeting and am left wondering where this enchanting scent has gone.

    I am grateful that this masterpiece has endured time and fad to be enjoyed today as it was intended.

    24 October, 2009

    derryberry138's avatar



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    Green Irish Tweed by Creed

    Horrible. Absolutely horrible. This is the quintessential things-I-do-not-want-to-smell-like fragrance, everything about this grates against my sense of smell. Kaern's review nailed it. I'm glad I only bought a vial of this, because I can never, ever see myself wearing this again.

    24 October, 2009

    derryberry138's avatar



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    Diesel Green Masculine by Diesel

    I liked this fragrance, but it always reminded me of Avon Skin So Soft. Even though I'm attracted to sweeter smelling colognes, this was sometimes a bit much. Overall I have fond memories of this.

    24 October, 2009

    nishantdavid's avatar

    India India

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    Ferrari (Red) by Ferrari

    I just recieved a 125ml bottle of ferrari red and let me tell you that it is nothing great. Just an average budget perfume that you can wear to work. Though it is definately very warm and soothing. Would be great for a normal winter day perhaps..... Nothing out of the ordinary but none the less a good floral warm soothing frag.


    enjoy

    24 October, 2009

    nishantdavid's avatar

    India India

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    Black XS by Paco Rabanne

    The first time i smelled it out of the bottle i fell in love with it. It is so fruity, lively youthful. My wife wears Light blue by D&G a lot so the un canny resemblance came to light pretty soon.It is a very rich sweet deep fragrance which will definately evoke ones emotions ( either of awe or of naseau).But the light citrus tinge in the dominant sweet note is awsome.
    Monster Longevity is an excellent plus point.
    My wife loves it what more can i ask.
    Definately worth buying.

    24 October, 2009

    Oslo-Fjord's avatar

    Norway Norway

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    Égoïste / L'Égoïste by Chanel

    Ohhh Egoiste.. This is regal! One of the most beautiful male fragrances on the market! A spicy masculine rose. It can`t be better than this. A timeless, refined masterpiece. Quality in all stages. 10 points!

    24 October, 2009 (Last Edited: 19 January, 2011)

    Andrewthecologneguy's avatar

    Nigeria Nigeria

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    Salvador Dali pour Homme by Salvador Dali

    Look no further than perfaddict's review. Spot on.
    For me...late 70s and 80s at its finest. Dark blue green and spice+leather. A bit of Drakkar Noir in the top flowing to Gianfranco Ferre's first (and arguably the best) offering, For Man. Manly powerhouse that is to be reveered.

    UPDATE
    I am totally in love with this. After years of sampling and reviewing fragrances, this stands out, and is in the company of such masterpieces as Macassar. You simply have to be patient with it.

    24 October, 2009 (Last Edited: 08 May, 2013)

    discovolante's avatar

    Greece Greece

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    Paul Smith Man by Paul Smith

    For those looking for a masculine Dior Homme,well,that's the answer...Light,indeed,but not as much as the other Paul Smith scents,with their poor longevity.

    25 October, 2009

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    H.M. by Hanae Mori

    Very sweet opening, sweet middle, sweet dry-down… sweet, sweet, sweet. A lollipop fragrance. Chocolate and vanilla are accurately rendered, not synthetic in character. Not my style at all.

    25 October, 2009

    Dimitrios's avatar

    Australia Australia

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    Habit Rouge by Guerlain

    I've had this for 12 months now & worn it over half a dozen times , each & every time it has impressed me immensely .
    It is indeed a classic by Guerlain & what impresses me most about it is the balance of its four main notes .
    **** EDC ****

    25 October, 2009

    oreo86us's avatar

    United States United States

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    Happy for Men by Clinique

    It's an energizing fresh, citrus scent. I can kinda see why they call it happy cause it makes you "feel positive" but I would feel more happier if the sillage and longevity was stronger.

    25 October, 2009

    oreo86us's avatar

    United States United States

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    Pi by Givenchy

    the sillage on this scent is alright. the longevity on me is pretty long- ive gotten 6-8 hours. vanilla like. Its a very unique scent and verrry unique, artsy bottle if you're into that sort of stuff. try on the skin first.

    25 October, 2009

    oreo86us's avatar

    United States United States

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    Hei by Alfred Sung

    Bought this because it was on sale only. I got tired of this after a couple of weeks. I started smelling a slight green/grassy note which I am not a fan of at all. Longevity was weak IMO. I use this as air freshner now when I out of the fabreeze.

    25 October, 2009

    oreo86us's avatar

    United States United States

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    Boss Selection by Hugo Boss

    a very sweet scent but the sillage and longevity could do better.

    25 October, 2009

    bbBD's avatar

    United States United States

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    Quand Vient L'Été by Guerlain

    I was on the verge of purchasing this lovely carnation-centric fragrance until I did a little bit of research. Turns out that Quand Vient l'Ete is another name for the very available Terracotta Voile d'Ete - also known as No.25 (from the "Guerlain Fragrance Collection"). Terracotta is still widely available at many retailers for under $30, and while there may be some minute difference (and there may not be) between QVLE and Terracotta, it's not significant enough to make it worth nearly 6x time the price per/ml.

    Still a wonderful fragrance - just don't waste your money on this particular bottling.

    25 October, 2009

    bbBD's avatar

    United States United States

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    Nahéma by Guerlain

    It's taken me a very long time to get my head around Nahema... roughly 7-8 months in fact. Nahema is simultaneously simple yet excruciatingly complex. The best analogy I can think of is to imagine a mechanical watch with no additional complications, a toubillion, etc. You see a simple face - an hour hand and a minute hand - but what's going on behind the face is absurdly intricate and detailed. Hundreds of pieces move together in concert to create a deceptively simple movement. Nahema's simple 'honeyed rose and vanilla' feels the just the same - we're not smelling simple rose and vanilla but a whole lot of other things that create this simple olfactory impression. One thing about Nahema is for certain... you do not know it and you can not know it until you've worn and sampled it many times. For months I've been playing with my various Nahema samples and bottles and every time I wear it something new is revealed. Were I to have written this review a month or two after first trying Nahema it would have markedly different.

    Between EdT, PdT, EdP and parfum - and various reformulations - getting a handle on what Nahema 'is' can be a daunting task. If I had to pick a favorite (and well yes, a superior) formula my vote is for the vintage PdT. The fragrance itself is an unnatural day-glo orange, compared to the simple yellow of today's EdP. As Somerville Metro Man correctly points out, there is simply no way to identify individual notes. It cannot be done. Instead the effect is one of a huuuuuge rose, smelled in 360 degrees, laying on a bed of fruity honey. The boldness of the rose meanders to a honeyed woody vanilla, though the rose never fully vanishes. It all sounds so simple and generic, but in this simplicity lays Nahema's beauty. Sillage borders on dangerous and longevity is absurd. I really enjoyed Vibert's review here because he's so right. To call Nahema a fruity floral is an insult, even if that's what it technically is, because it really is so much more.

    Today's EdT and EdP are lacking in the boldness of the rose accord that make Nahema so incredibly distinctive and enjoyable. Instead the 'honeyed' vanilla is much more front and center and competes too much with the rose accord. As if it wasn't confusing enough, the modern parfum puts the rose note right up front and isn't nearly as sweet and honeyed as the lower concentrations. If you're buying a modern formula go for the parfum - otherwise seek out a vintage PdT bottle.

    25 October, 2009

    bbBD's avatar

    United States United States

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    Armani Privé Cuir Améthyste by Giorgio Armani

    Armani tries to combine leather with violets and sadly fails on both counts. Leather in perfumery is an olfactory image created by other ingredients such as birtch tar, styrax, etc. and unfortunately the ingredients in Cuir Amethyste to my nose don't create a true leather. Instead they hint at something resembling leather, which in and of itself isn't such a bad thing but in a fragrance named "Cuir" I'd hoped for something more. The violet nose is devastatingly strong and sweet, and if it were intended to balance the dryness of the 'leather' it does so all too well. As with many Armani fragrances, C-A comes off as unduly synthetic smelling to my nose - again, not necessarily a bad thing but in this case it is.

    I tried - I really, really tried to like Cuir Amethyste. I sampled and wore it dozens of times after scoring a handful of the inexpensive refill bottles at Marshalls for $30 a piece, always hoping that perhaps I just wasn't 'getting' the fragrance. I finally passed along the bottles to someone who appreciates the scent more then I do. I'm sure there's a hidden value to C-A that I'm simply not recognizing because I just don't like the fragrance. I'm always a bit suspicious of any fragrance that goes from $170 to $30 within a couple years.

    25 October, 2009

    vintage*red's avatar

    United States United States

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    Jour de Fête by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I agree with Trebor. This does not strike me as a unisex fragrance. It starts out very sweet gourmand and morphs into a sweet, nutty vanilla tobacco...with the emphasis on sweet and nutty and not on tobacco. This is a pedestrian fragrance especially since it comes from L'Artisan. I usually find that the L'Artisan fragrances (not the Serge Lutens fragrances) are harder to wear, but this one is a cinch! There is no sillage and the longevity is lacking.

    25 October, 2009

    vintage*red's avatar

    United States United States

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    Cozé 02 by Parfumerie Generale

    Coze starts out as a very green, unsettling patchouli. At drydown, it is warmer and sweeter and quite ordinary. I wanted to love this one, but I don't.

    25 October, 2009

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