Fragrance Reviews from October 2009

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    Ronald's avatar



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    Porsche Design Essence by Porsche

    I'm with those who find this quite nice. It reminds me of High... by Patrick Cox, and somewhat of Horizon by Guy Laroche - black pepper, patchouli, woody fresh. I could care less if it comes from Porsche Design - I won't hold that against it, or for it. I don't get the ferocity of the "hating" on this one - even if it's not your thing, it's in no way horrible. Perhaps if it were from a somewhat less "aspirational" brand it would get a fairer shake.

    07 October, 2009

    zztopp's avatar

    United States United States

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    Acqua di Giò pour Homme by Giorgio Armani

    Notes:
    Top: Bergamot, Neroli, Green Tangerine
    Middle: Jasmine, Rock rose, Marine note, Rosemary, Persimmon
    Base: Cedar, Patchouli, Musk

    Formulated by nose Albert Morillas, Aqua di Gio homme (AdG) is Armani Parfums biggest cash cow and one of the progenitors of the fruity aquatic genre. Much has been written about its ubiquitous presence in hang out spots all over the world, but its hard to deny that its a well made fragrance. Inspired by Giorgio Armani's vacations in the isle of Pantelleria, the aim was to evoke "the voluptuous rush of wind and water, brilliantly combining sweet and salty flavors, with the bittersweet power of of sea water on sun-drenched skin."

    The opening hesperidic blast is pleasant and invigorating, and soon after the salty-floral-fruity heart appears. Things are kept light and pleasant, with hedione (synthetic jasmine) lending a pleasant floral aroma, a bouquet of fruits (melon, etc) gushing in the accord, and a very well integrated aquatic note imparting a slightly salty tinge. There's also a spice accord hidden in there somewhere...if you smell closely enough you can detect a coriander note warming up the proceedings. The whole heart notes phase is expertly balanced with none of the various facets feeling out of place. It is however rather fleeting and within an hour or two the woody-musky base rears its ugly formulated head (AdG used to feature a better musk and cedar note in its hey day).

    Yes its ubiquitous...yes its nothing outstanding (it ain't 1996 anymore)...yes there are a zillion other fruity aquatics on the market...and yes it has been done better before (1995s Creed Millesime Imperial). But credit is due to AdG for being one of the early fruity-aquatic trailblazers, and for opening up the genre for other fast-followers (it also outsells Imperial by quite a mile). And despite the inferior reformulated base, its still smells good. Like it or not you will still be seeing AdG ads in Vogue or Forbes 5 years from now..

    Rating: 7.25/10.0

    07 October, 2009

    evinick's avatar

    Greece Greece

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    Piper Nigrum by Lorenzo Villoresi

    In general, intense peppery scents have either fanatic friends or fanatic enemies (I always try to be neutral in this war…). The untamed and non compatible nor with the summer weather neither with the daywear use, character of this note usually creates problems to many from us. Moreover the spicy and acid smell of pepper can, depending on the background, become tedious or even repellent. Being prepared for a heavy peppery-spicy scent, I was surprised by the light, bitter and herbal opening that was really pleasant and fresh. It was also great that I could accurately recognize each one of the notes that compose the top. The acidity of peppermint prepares you for the entry of black pepper, which along with the oregano dominate the spicy heart. The more you wait, the more pleasant and warm it gets, yet still bitter. For a spicy oriental, I would expect better longevity, but its mild quality make it vulnerable to time. Not my kind of scent but a must for the pepper lovers.

    07 October, 2009

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Vent Vert (original) by Pierre Balmain

    Vent Vert (original) by Pierre Balmain
    [I] Many thanks to 3xasif, a real fan of VV and a great nose, who supplied me with samples and information. The matter before us is complex. The site Bois de Jasmin has a useful history of the scent. [/I]
    [B] 1947 Original VV in EDT format [/B], formulated by Cellier. This is my favorite version. It is a lovely green-yellow colour. True to its reputation, this VV has a fabulous galbanum note, yet that is so well balanced and played against a gorgeous floral chord. The galbanum is dusky, smoky and haunting. The florals are a complex, beautiful cloud. Then the scent settles into its old-school mossy base. This has real depth and character, with a slightly soapy tone. I love galbanum and moss, and this is a wonderful combination of those.
    [B] Original VV in EDP format [/B]. This is a deep gold colour. It is spicier, deeper and richer than the EDT version. The galbanum is more prominent, and the scent is perhaps less complex and more focused than the EDT. It is powerful, and the dominance of the galbanum puts it near Sisley’s Eau de Campagne. Although there are less florals, because of the richness the scent seems sweeter. It is amazing, but I feel it suffers in comparison to the EDT format.
    [B] Second version of VV, 1990 in EDT [/B], formulated by Becker. The galbanum has been reduced. The scent seems sharper, leaner, thinner, fresher than the original. It suggests a sappy green rather than a dusky green. More acidic, less mossy; it is a perhaps prettier, younger, more innocent version. The florals are not as gorgeous. And the iris is much more prominent, and enduring. Pyramid notes suggest that the iris has moved from the mid to the base. I’m not a fan of iris, so for me this is my least favorite version.
    …And I haven’t even tried the notorious third version from 1999. I hope I have done justice to this complex scent, and issue.

    07 October, 2009

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Vent Vert (new) by Pierre Balmain

    I hope I may be allowed some latitude here. I have put reviews of the 1947 EDT and EDP, as well as the 1990 second version, in the "original" VV category. Since the 1999 third version is the one in current production, it seems to me that the "new" category is that version -- which I cannot comment upon.

    07 October, 2009

    jenson's avatar

    India India

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    Citrus Paradisi by Czech & Speake

    To me, this is citrus heaven and oh, how aptly titled, Citrus paradisi. it's juicy, sumptous, effervescent lemon in its opening to a greener mids and a powderty soft, cloudy base. im not sure how this could possibly repel people. it's an citrusy elixir, straight from heaven.

    07 October, 2009

    SirSlarty's avatar

    United States United States

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    Cabaret Homme by Grès

    Good rosy, aromatic (brisk and crisp) herbal fougere opening but is very light and bearable. Reminds me of Casran by Chopard but not as "chemical". I'm not a fan of rose scents but this is nice. Good work cologne.

    07 October, 2009

    Kaern's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Number 3 / Le 3me Homme / The Third Man by Caron

    The best male fragrance from Caron in my opinion. 'Pour un Homme' is a pretty much straightforward lavender (not my cup of tea), Yatagan (way too harsh for me) and L'Anarchiste (alright if you like a mixture of blood oranges and copper -- a bit weird). The lavender is strong in the top of the Third Man, but bearable -- the floral middle is ok, but not exactly subtle -- in fact the whole fragrance is a bit pushy. No, really I could bypass the first 3 or 4 hours quite happily. The drydown is where it's at and the metamorphosis is quite astonishing -- it's like a different scent. All the basenotes combine to produce a drydown that is breathtaking and flawless in it's beauty.

    07 October, 2009

    Kaern's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Acqua di Genova Colonia by Acqua di Genova

    I'm a bit confused -- there seems to be 2 versions of this -- one in tribute of 150 years of the original. I purchased the tribute version, which is a more subdued take on the vibrant lemony classic original, being more concentrated on neroli and wood notes and more suited to Autumn.. It reminds me very much of Hermes Concentree Orange Verte, but is slightly more complex. Anyway, both versions are magnificent.

    07 October, 2009

    Kaern's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Patchoulissime by Keiko Mecheri

    I love this fragrance as I'm not a great fan of full on patchouli. If you give a couple of coats or spray liberally it's not that mild . It is also one of the better lasters from Keiko Mercheri and I get a full day easily. Patchoulissime is exquisite as it is.

    07 October, 2009

    Kaern's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Cadjméré 18 by Parfumerie Generale

    A creamy warm chypre that is aromatic and resinous. Spray some on a cashmere scarf in the dead of winter. I think some of the notes battle a bit and it isn't as smooth as it could be, but it's very nice and lasts all day.

    07 October, 2009

    Kaern's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Live Forever by Ben Sherman

    I like to sample all ends of the perfume spectrum -- this baby came in at under £10 for 50ml. As you can probably guess, it is not the most complex of fragrances -- there is some Rose and Jasmine notes at the top, but it quickly steeples into a pretty generic amber and wood base with just hints of the florals. It reminds me a lot of Michael Kors for Men, but it is actually more refined than that brute. It's saving grace is the elongated drydown, which is not unpleasant. Value for money wise, it is tremendous and suffice to say it knocks spots off any full-price Hugo Boss male fragrance (quite a low benchmark, I know). To be fair, I will never wear this out, but it isn't a dog and some care has gone into the note blending. I admire it very much.

    07 October, 2009

    Kaern's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Straight to Heaven by By Kilian

    Heady, rich and boozy, but basically ends up as a deep patchouli and wood fragrance. It's very nice, but is not unique by a long way. If you already have Nasomatto's Duro or Black Afghan, CDG's Luxe or even Tom Ford's Oud Wood, there is no reason to purchase this as well.

    07 October, 2009

    Kaern's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Bal d'Afrique by Byredo

    I am completely baffled by Bal d'Afrique's gender classification. This is a beautifully blended unisex fragrance -- the amber and cedar seem to combine to produce an almost nutty smell, which reminds me of Hermes Vetiver Tonka -- most odd. A daring mixture of notes that work wonderfully. Expensive, but worth it.

    07 October, 2009

    Kaern's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Paul Smith Man by Paul Smith

    I could hardly smell anything -- this is minimalism taken to the nth degree. I think maybe the incense note kills everything else off or my nose needed some coffee beans. I may have to re-test, but probably won't.

    07 October, 2009

    Kaern's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Hot Water by Davidoff

    Tepid more like. This is meant to be a spicy oriental, but fails miserably. I tested on a blotter and zoned out a nanosecond later. Rubbish.

    07 October, 2009

    Tony T's avatar

    United States United States

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    Connect for Men by Jivago

    untolerable 80's masculine in the likes of trussardi uomo.. big civet and mossy woods. perfect for big brawly over 40 guys but that's it. a headache inducer!

    07 October, 2009

    brrrry's avatar

    United States United States

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    Dolce & Gabbana Pour Homme by Dolce & Gabbana

    Just like Mario I have to disagree with a few members whose opinions I respect. I don't care for this one at all. I had sampled it a few times (liked it) and bought a bottle. Everytime I wear it now, my disdain grows. I find it unbearable and on the cusp of just plain tacky. The tobacco is hidden under a mountain of sythetic trash. I'd love to tell you how I translate the notes but I can't smell any over the burning in my nostrils. I am one of the lucky ones that most everything "works" on me and lasts too. This one does last, but a bit too much after a minute of wearing it. I have always read the reviews of others who claim they had to wash it off and I never understood how bad that could be. Now I know. One of the few "thumbs down" I have given. This will be swapped immediately. Sorry to the fans but I don't get it.

    07 October, 2009

    vintage*red's avatar

    United States United States

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    Cinnabar by Estée Lauder

    I don't know what to think of this fragrance. On my mother & on a friend, this stuff is a 4 star beauty. On my sisiter & me, it's a 2 star heavy handed oriental. It doesn't sicken me the way that Youth Dew does, but I can think of at least a dozen other over the top spicy juices that I prefer. If you like spicy oriental scents, it is worth a try. But don't get your hopes up...

    07 October, 2009

    adowds's avatar

    Ireland Ireland

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    M7 by Yves Saint Laurent

    The stand-out note in the opening is the agar wood but the ambergris is definitely there in equal measure. The agar wood jars the nose more but it's the ambergris that provides the body of M7. There is a freshness given by the vetiver, and a spiciness that doesn't marry to the stated top notes (to my mind) with the agar wood bringing a woody and medicinal quality. The ambergris 'rounds' off the fragrance, providing the sweet smoothness (which some refer to as vanilla). The top notes are very nice and give extra character but sadly disappear off too quickly, rendering them ultimately unimportant.

    The spiciness has all but gone after one hour leaving the musk, agar wood and ambergris blending well together. One moment I feel that I mostly get ambergris (which I loathe in isolation) the next the agar wood would become the more obvious. In the end it’s the always long-lived ambergris which remains the more powerful element and sees M7 out. Now ordinarily this would be intolerable for me but there is just enough trace amounts of musk and agar wood to keep it pleasant for me.

    Some have felt that M7 needs thirty minutes to tame before they believe they can face the world. Myself I like the opening most. M7 sits more in the realm of niche fragrances than designer, as rich and thick as Blue Amber or Chergui. I prefer M7 over the aforementioned, it has a less pronounced ambergris, a nutty character and swapping the ‘vanilla’ sweetness for a ‘cough syrup’ sweetness is just fine by me.

    07 October, 2009

    NappySupreme's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Escada Moon Sparkle for Men by Escada

    Definitely my most regrettable purchase. A day wearing this stuff is like an exercise in pain tolerance. The intensity of the sharp top note is unbelievable and lingers for at least an hour after application..... not something I'd recommend.

    07 October, 2009

    Apicius's avatar

    Germany Germany

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    Idole de Lubin by Lubin

    This perfume is a big cheater.

    Great topnote that disappeares very quickly, leaving behind boring and ordinary heart and basenotes and lots of disappointment.

    07 October, 2009

    Marcelle's avatar



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    Nu Eau de Parfum by Yves Saint Laurent

    OK, I confess I'm puzzled. I got a decant of this thinking I'd love the floral/incense interplay. And black pepper and vetiver? Bring it on. But on my skin it didn't unfold in the lovely, layered way others have described. Instead this had two stages on me: first, an in-your-face, super-sweet floral opening (orchid, orchid, orchid: wherefore art thou, bergamot?) that would send the perfumophobes in my office running to phone HR. Then, about 10 minutes later, the woozy floral receded and I got something I'd describe as Opium lite: the same sort of spicy incense, but with much, much less sillage. I'd consider spritzing this one on and keeping all the windows open until the orchid faded, but then again, I could just buy a more straightforward incense frag and leave it at that. Perhaps the edt provides more of the sheer layers others have written about--I'd like that. But for me this manages to be both too much and not enough.

    07 October, 2009

    Marcelle's avatar



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    Eau d'Iparie by L'Occitane

    Fragrance Notes: Red pepper, rose, patchouli, labdanum, myrrh, incense, vanilla, moss

    A lot of the Occitane fragrances are too sweet or too one-note for me, but not this one. After an opening of fresh-cut roses, the patchouli, labdanum, and incense predominate, but the rose never really disappears, and with the vanilla, keeps this from conjuring dusty cathedrals. I don't get much pepper from this, just rose balanced and anchored by the incense. The overall effect is warm, cozy, and more than a little sexy. A very affordable scent given its complexity, too. Love it.

    07 October, 2009

    Zgb's avatar

    Croatia Croatia

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    Silver Shadow Private by Davidoff

    Dark and mystical. Not generic at all, great longevity and sillage. It is not a must have, but definitely has certain something that makes me want to wear it.

    07 October, 2009 (Last Edited: 01st February, 2010)

    Cute_cute_baby's avatar

    Vietnam Vietnam

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    Fleurs de Citronnier by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    It's nice and warm.
    There's lemon blossom and leaves in the top note (it's more like lime blossom to me, what I smell from my tree), close to soap at first.
    There's nothing fresh or zesty at all (if you are looking for). The dry down is less soapy and softens down with scent of lemon blossom pollen mixed with tuberose (oh my, tuberose is not my thing), a hint of crushed lemon leave, a hint of lightly spiced honey, almost powdery to me.
    I do like it, but not so much. It's suitable for spring or a windy night.

    07 October, 2009

    somnambulist07's avatar

    Wales Wales

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    1 Million by Paco Rabanne

    For me, the bottle is not tacky looking at all, rather unique and creative. I like the whole gold ingot shape. I like that they have tried something different. As for the scent itself, it's very floral, sweet, a little fruity with woods and spices thrown in too. I can see why people would say this one is a bit feminine, but it's such a nice smell and it does have enough masculine qualities so as to appeal to women and make men want to wear it. I really like it and will replace it when needed. The longevity and sillage are really good too and the scent lasts through most of the day.

    07 October, 2009

    Jack's avatar

    United States United States

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    Tom Ford Extreme by Tom Ford

    The cold weather is on its way, and thinking of some new scents. This is very hard to describe, maybe sweet, leather, hint of tobacco. IMO this is a very pleasant scent. I like stronger scents and this does seem light. I may buy this soon, but I’m going to use my sample one more day.

    IMO longevity and sillage are below average in this price range, but it smells great. I wish it would come in 100ml, at 125$ for 50ml is about the same price per ounce as my 100ml TV.

    07 October, 2009 (Last Edited: 28 March, 2010)

    NotBlondeToTheRoots's avatar

    United States United States

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    31 rue Cambon by Chanel

    I want to BATHE in this scent. My only regret is that it's not longer lasting!! I love it so much, I've actually given serious consideration as to how to evaporate/concentrate the EDT to provide a longer lasting scent without disturbing the oils in the scent. I desperatedly wish Chanel would come out with this in an EDP or parfum!!

    07 October, 2009 (Last Edited: 20th October, 2009)

    autumn89's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Le Mâle by Jean Paul Gaultier

    I do like this, but i dont think id wear it out and about. I think id be too self conscious. But i enjoy it when im alone.
    Problems with it seeming too strong can be solved with just one spray though... even though you are still likely to be able to notice it, it wont be quite so much like a punch in the nose. Jacomo rouge is a much lighter and easy going version of this, id give that a try.

    07 October, 2009

    Showing 211 to 240 of 1162.