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Genny (original) by Genny

The original vintage juice in the triangular bottle is stunning. The nuanced progression of the opening florals practically requires a play-by-play sports announcer to describe accurately. To oversimplify, I get a heart of marigold with rose with two kinds of ongoing highlights – (a) lighter floral notes from jasmine/iris and (2) spicy notes from patchouli, oakmoss, and perhaps a tiny touch of a cooking spice. This is enveloped in a smooth sandalwood and light musk. Genny has an ambiguity to it. It has a boldness borne of complexity but stays within itself without ostentation. In my own personal Platonic realm of pure forms there would be phases of Genny's progression where I would turn down the patchouli a notch, particularly in the dry-down, but this at least makes Genny plausibly unisex. In any event, in the real world, its hard to come by a more ideal experience.
02nd June, 2015

Dior Homme Intense by Christian Dior

The gods be thanked in these unforgiving times! No need to add much so permit me to editorialize about one facet of this terrific offering. I don’t quite know what the “Virginia Cedarwood” mentioned in the pyramid is (and this from somebody with a country house in rural Virginia). However, I would be a much happier man if this could supplant the appalling hamster cage cedar chip note in so many modern fragrances.
02nd June, 2015
drseid Show all reviews
United States

Ruh by Pekji

Ruh opens with a brief blast of saffron spiced jammy dulled rose before quickly moving to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart the saffron led spiced jammy dulled rose remains the focus, now joined by a hybrid tobacco and Oud-like significant supporting accord. During the late dry-down the jammy rose abruptly fades, leaving traces of the now gentle saffron spice to couple with a dry slightly powdery accord through the finish, Projection is excellent, as is longevity at over 12 hours on skin.

Ruh on first glance comes off as an extremely high quality rose and Oud composition, but while there would be nothing wrong with that, it really doesn't tell the whole story... First off, the rose used by perfumer Omer Ipekci is absolutely gorgeous. It has a spiced dull jammy quality to it with an underlying faint powdery sheen that is not quite the same as any I have encountered to date, with the saffron spice playing a key role in its transformation. Also quite interesting is the key supporting tobacco and Oud-like accord in the composition's middle that most likely is actually spice derived. Things stay pretty linear, but seemingly out of nowhere the jammy rose abruptly disappears, leaving remnants of the spice to pair with gentle dry powder in the base. This late dry-down is probably the least interesting aspect of the composition, but the powder never even approaches worrisome levels, meshing perfectly with the spice remnants. At the end of the day, Ruh is all about appearances but things aren't necessarily as they seem. There *could* be some Oud or maybe even some tobacco in here, but I think not. There also *could* be some oakmoss in the base behind the powder, but I am leaning against that too... I guess what ingredients were used to create this stellar work is more for mystery buffs like me to debate. More importantly for most is that Ruh, regardless of what is in the composition smells absolutely amazing, impressively walking the tight wire of smelling faintly familiar and altogether unique at once. Kudos to emerging star perfumer Ipekci for pulling this one off! The bottom line is the $105 per 30ml bottle Ruh is puzzler in all the best ways, earning an "outstanding" 4.5 star rating out of 5 and an extremely strong recommendation to all (even those that typically dislike rose compositions).
02nd June, 2015

Tam Dao Eau de Parfum by Diptyque

Sandalwood Heaven! I love this stuff. It was great from the opening, middle and all the way to the dry down. Full bottle worthy and a good price point for an EdP.
02nd June, 2015

Rêve Opulent by Terry de Gunzburg

Frankly I detect more sambac jasmine than gardenia guys. Terry de Gunzburg Reve Opulent is a plummy-peachy hyper chic (musky synthetic) rosey accord of jasmine, gardenia, ylang-ylang and fruits. The musky-soapy (somewhat balmy-cosmetical, almost creamy) ambience is the main treat of this ultra-floral synthetic accord. Really sultry, vaguely honeyed and soapy-cosmetical type of hyper floral concoction, uncompromisingly feminine, spicy-glamour, slightly zesty and musky-balmy. I detect something close to blackcurrant in the blend. The fruitiness is notable throughout but basically gardenia, musk, soapy vanillin, orange blossoms and ylang-ylang perform as starring presences. Probably a cashmeran accord enhances the muskiness and the ultra-glamour sambac jasmine makes this fragrance standing (with all the differences) in the same Thierry Mugler Alien's range (Giulietta Capuleti Soul Drops jumps on mind too for several of its more classic hallmarks). Dry down is warm and soapy-floral but not enough innovative to stand out. Really pleasant and modern.
02nd June, 2015

Red Roses by Jo Malone

As the name goes, Red Roses is quite all about rose, played in a way I really enjoy here. It’s fresh, green and breezy, probably one of the most bracing and crisp rose-based scents I’ve ever tried. It avoids any soapy-camphorous effect, far from any classic rose inspiration; rather enhancing the natural fruity-leafy side of rose (also thanks to some citrus notes). Truly a basket of freshly-cut wet roses with no frills. I am not aware whether they used some particular variety of rose here (or if they used real rose oils in the first place), all I know is that this fragrance smells fresh, pleasant and refined – that sort of relaxed, playful, understated “weekend” kind of elegance. Obviously perfect for any formal situation as well. A simple, maybe a tad boring after a while but really effective and highly enjoyable all-rounder.

7-7,5/10
02nd June, 2015

Ven by O'Driù

It seems that some people do not appreciate the irony! Or rather not when it concerns something as serious as their ideology! It seems that there are not words to describe how I'm stupid, vulgar and cowardly to write some reviews! To me it seems absurd to talk about a world of fleeting and imperceptible art (such as perfume) and being in front of grumpy politicians who threaten you! I wonder if they are capable of a few critical the ones that are not capable of self-criticism.

A few months ago it sounded like a mantra "Je suis Charlie". Many have written it to communicate their moral support, others have posted it on social networks to share with their friends, but few have reflected on its real meaning.
Being Charlie does not mean necessarily to share their opinion on the topics covered, to marry their line of thought or to buy their newspaper. It means being ready to get your face when the right to freedom of expression is infringed.
Defend the right of others to disagree with us.

How Wolinskj once told me: "Angelo, I'll never get used."

I also do not I get used to the constant threats of few but ferocious Niche goers! Nor do I get used to the silence of the real artists, those "healthy" and able who jostle for the crumbs that fall from the table of industries!
This is not to write "I like" or "I don’t like", it is a moral point of view just so honest and deep that it can not be left in the hands of an oligarchy of rare intelligence! Then you do not like reading me! Do not read, because I'm not here for you, but to give an option to everyone else: I'm not the opposite of what you are, I am only a different voice from yours!

So I say to you that VEN DET TA is the worst of perfumes.
The last crap that I, Angelo Orazio Pregoni, has ever produced!
A perfume without courage and full of hatred, a scent that was born in the wrong place, the world of luxury!

VEN is a pretentious exercise, anger and resentment trapped in fruity till the bitter fate of the future...Ahahah!

DET is the syllogism of the perfumer as a fool, always me, because the scent is captured by itself as the inevitable destiny.

And then between melons, strawberries and a rebuilt tuberose here it is, TA!
Masterpiece of the useless, as it is useless to talk, as it is useless to understand, as it is useless to censor, as it is useless to revenge, as it is useless to die, as it is useless to die, as it is useless to die!
02nd June, 2015

Ta by O'Driù

It seems that some people do not appreciate the irony! Or rather not when it concerns something as serious as their ideology! It seems that there are not words to describe how I'm stupid, vulgar and cowardly to write some reviews! To me it seems absurd to talk about a world of fleeting and imperceptible art (such as perfume) and being in front of grumpy politicians who threaten you! I wonder if they are capable of a few critical the ones that are not capable of self-criticism.

A few months ago it sounded like a mantra "Je suis Charlie". Many have written it to communicate their moral support, others have posted it on social networks to share with their friends, but few have reflected on its real meaning.
Being Charlie does not mean necessarily to share their opinion on the topics covered, to marry their line of thought or to buy their newspaper. It means being ready to get your face when the right to freedom of expression is infringed.
Defend the right of others to disagree with us.

How Wolinskj once told me: "Angelo, I'll never get used."

I also do not I get used to the constant threats of few but ferocious Niche goers! Nor do I get used to the silence of the real artists, those "healthy" and able who jostle for the crumbs that fall from the table of industries!
This is not to write "I like" or "I don’t like", it is a moral point of view just so honest and deep that it can not be left in the hands of an oligarchy of rare intelligence! Then you do not like reading me! Do not read, because I'm not here for you, but to give an option to everyone else: I'm not the opposite of what you are, I am only a different voice from yours!

So I say to you that VEN DET TA is the worst of perfumes.
The last crap that I, Angelo Orazio Pregoni, has ever produced!
A perfume without courage and full of hatred, a scent that was born in the wrong place, the world of luxury!

VEN is a pretentious exercise, anger and resentment trapped in fruity till the bitter fate of the future...Ahahah!

DET is the syllogism of the perfumer as a fool, always me, because the scent is captured by itself as the inevitable destiny.

And then between melons, strawberries and a rebuilt tuberose here it is, TA!
Masterpiece of the useless, as it is useless to talk, as it is useless to understand, as it is useless to censor, as it is useless to revenge, as it is useless to die, as it is useless to die, as it is useless to die!
02nd June, 2015

Paul Smith Man by Paul Smith

Graphite by Montana and/or Balmain’s Carbone meet Dior Homme and Narciso Rodriguez for Him. The composition is extremely clean and “geometrical” and you can really clearly see these inspirations for me. Pencil-wood shavings, peppery synthetic incense, iris, that same exact feel of “wet concrete” caused by violet leaves as in Narciso, with just the exact hint of citrus freshness not to smell overly oppressive. How come this fragrance is so neglected and underrated? I may be wrong, but I find Man probably the best offering ever by Paul Smith. And one of the nicest mainstreams of the last decade, deserving for me way more praise than it gets. This is a remarkable little gem of satin matte dusty greyness, masterfully blending Lorson’s signature “pencil sharpener” notes with a truly enjoyable iris-violet accord which smells slightly sweet, but massively aloof and decidedly androgynous, completely emptied of any “powdery” weight. I mean: it is powdery, just in a really transparent, light way (so, yes, totally “masculine” if that’s your concern). The same for woods – more “industrial wood shavings” than actual raw woods. The entire fragrance smells actually totally weightless, resulting in an extremely sophisticated feel of “empty” dustiness. Feels more like the balmy smell of air where these materials have been processed, rather than the actual result of the processing. Instant love for me, the quality of materials isn’t probably stunning, but this doesn’t smell cheap for me. Or better say: it makes a really good use of synthetics, so cheapness isn’t an issue in the first place. A peculiar yet versatile and refined fragrance with a remarkable contemporary feel, extremely linear but it works. Also quite niche-smelling for me – could have been easily something made by Andrea Maack or nu_be. Totally nice bottle too. Sadly discontinued.

7,5-8/10
02nd June, 2015

Det by O'Driù

It seems that some people do not appreciate the irony! Or rather not when it concerns something as serious as their ideology! It seems that there are not words to describe how I'm stupid, vulgar and cowardly to write some reviews! To me it seems absurd to talk about a world of fleeting and imperceptible art (such as perfume) and being in front of grumpy politicians who threaten you! I wonder if they are capable of a few critical the ones that are not capable of self-criticism.

A few months ago it sounded like a mantra "Je suis Charlie". Many have written it to communicate their moral support, others have posted it on social networks to share with their friends, but few have reflected on its real meaning.
Being Charlie does not mean necessarily to share their opinion on the topics covered, to marry their line of thought or to buy their newspaper. It means being ready to get your face when the right to freedom of expression is infringed.
Defend the right of others to disagree with us.

How Wolinskj once told me: "Angelo, I'll never get used."

I also do not I get used to the constant threats of few but ferocious Niche goers! Nor do I get used to the silence of the real artists, those "healthy" and able who jostle for the crumbs that fall from the table of industries!
This is not to write "I like" or "I don’t like", it is a moral point of view just so honest and deep that it can not be left in the hands of an oligarchy of rare intelligence! Then you do not like reading me! Do not read, because I'm not here for you, but to give an option to everyone else: I'm not the opposite of what you are, I am only a different voice from yours!

So I say to you that VEN DET TA is the worst of perfumes.
The last crap that I, Angelo Orazio Pregoni, has ever produced!
A perfume without courage and full of hatred, a scent that was born in the wrong place, the world of luxury!

VEN is a pretentious exercise, anger and resentment trapped in fruity till the bitter fate of the future...Ahahah!

DET is the syllogism of the perfumer as a fool, always me, because the scent is captured by itself as the inevitable destiny.

And then between melons, strawberries and a rebuilt tuberose here it is, TA!
Masterpiece of the useless, as it is useless to talk, as it is useless to understand, as it is useless to censor, as it is useless to revenge, as it is useless to die, as it is useless to die, as it is useless to die!
02nd June, 2015
kewart Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Armani Privé Figuier Eden by Giorgio Armani

I am attracted to fig like a magnet so I had to test this one! I am wearing it on a cool wet day in June and it perfectly matches the mood of the weather - dry, unripe fig with citrus/peppery notes and a subtle underpinning of powdery iris.

This is an extremely elegant edt, which could be worn by a man or a woman. It has great longevity but not such strong sillage. I shall be wearing it for summer weddings and for work. It won't offend anyone and may just charm them!
02nd June, 2015

Mistral Patchouli by Atelier Cologne

If you're after a patchouli fragrance in high definition this is not it. There's very little of patchouli in here. I'm not sure how much of it is (subliminally) driven by its marketing concept but I experienced Mistral Patchouli as a refreshingly breezy seaside-inspired interpretation with a mildly citric-fruity opening, an almost tangibly aqueous semi-sweet minty-briny middle phase that dries down to a softly resinous oriental-like base.

Overall I find this to be a summery office-friendly aquatic-patchouli hybrid. Certainly one of my favorites from the Atelier line, with excellent on-skin performance.
02nd June, 2015

Joop! Homme Wild by Joop!

The Wild edition of Joop! doesn't really need to exist. For starters, it is nearly the same fragrance as Joop! Jump. The body weight, longevity, and projection are the same and the only real change is swapping out the airy orange blossom for 'rum absolute,' which comes off as sweet and foody, like a version of Rochas Man that trades in the coffee-mocha tone for marshmallow yet remains mocha-colored. Wild is pleasant and can be had for quite cheap, but there are many better scents out there like it.
Having said all that I do enjoy wearing this one, and others seem to like it on me. I just get bored with the composition easily because there is no real movement. If you already have Rochas Man, Jump, CK Intense Euphoria, Apparition Homme Intense, or Oak by Bath and Body Works you'd be better off passing on this offering. If you do not own any of those give it a go, as these aromatic semi-gourmands are currently well-favored by the vast majority of people I meet and I feel every enthusiast should own at least one.
Joop! Homme Wild is not at all a bad boy scent. It is not hardened or mysterious. It certainly doesn't break any rules. It's actually a velvety-smooth Mr. Nice Guy and pairs well with sweaters and cappuccinos.
02nd June, 2015

Holy Shit by Pekji

A "not for the faint of heart" fecal combination of beastly secretions, ancient woods, forest resins (probably oudh too) and spicy frankincense. According with my experience Holy Shit is the closest "redolent" thing to the La Via del Profumo's Zibetto (Civet) pure oil. This is the juice of "anti-heroes" since is pratically unwearable and could be an immensely daring (and brashly provocative) solution for people wishing to make a really individual statement (a controversial status symbol) in the most aggressive of the ways. The boisterous fecal temperament is in here as much pushed up to turn the infamous C&S Cuba's fecal note out as an holy balmy-soapy essence for catechists. I'm sure a castoreum's appointment is set down in order to "sweeten" the general fecal atmosphere and this seems a tragicomic paradox that is anyway a true story since the first impression you have in the top (for less than one minute) is to inhale a mild combination of castoreum, dryed fruits, spicy frankincense, woods and forest resins (something vaguely a la Slumberhouse Vikt, Sonoma Scent Studio Winter Woods and Lutens Fille en Aiguilles). Sweet resins, musks and fir "glue" jump up (vaguely spicy and fruity) for a while at the opening in order to unfortunately be soon "teared to pieces" by this visceral "catacombal" crap-like miasma which is frankly (but respectfully) too much for me. Assumed it I just wanna tell that people which wish to give its contribution by reviews here on Basenotes might be more respectful and less scurrilous if wanna be welcome by the other reviewers (respecting whatever each creator must be free to appoint without be vulgarly attacked by anybody and respecting whatever each reviewer have to express without undergoing the risk to be defined a perfumer-dog's owner/manipulator), this forum is basically ideated to welcome everybody, self-proclaimed artists and more humble alchemists.
P.S: along the way (Thank God) the power of civet slightly decreases leaving a part of the stage (just a little corner) free for mild resins, dark woods and musks. Is it enough? Not for me.
01st June, 2015 (last edited: 02nd June, 2015)

Holy Shit by Pekji

PROLOGUE

Wow! Now yes! We do provocation! What a fantastic idea! What an original idea! A punk perfume to meditate! I need to medite to Niche world!

THEME

I would be happy to know which is the scandal: a perfumer who is the critic, or some pseudo critics that become perfumers?
A good critic of perfumes is not, per se, a good perfumer. No more so than a good drunk is automatically a good bartender.

It seems that cultivate friendships on the forum will contribute to a rapid career: who is proclaimed critic, who claims to be a new perfumes creator, who says pathetically willing to accept the point of views of others and finally it's just a hypocrite one.

The problem of this perfume is that it is lacking in originality and courage and becomes an example of kitsch, something like "I would to be but I can not."

A further example of perfumery destined to please a niche of the niche made only of strangers who talk about other strangers, the important thing is to be friends, what generally is called "lobby".

The beauty of the Internet is that everything seems flat and equal, but it is not!
I take this opportunity to thank who allows everyone to talk! If it were not so, a lot of new critics probably would never have been able to be such critics, being the critic (for definition) a journalist or who reviews art (or perfumery if you want) with his name and surname.

Being passionate is an individual quality, which often proves to be only onanism.

CONCLUSIONS

This is my quote:

"The both, perfumer and blogger, are a combination as dog and owner, where the dog is obviously the perfumer."

(?)

01st June, 2015 (last edited: 02nd June, 2015)
drseid Show all reviews
United States

Good Life by Davidoff

Good Life for Men opens with relatively sweet green fig leaf coupling with an aromatic bergamot and lavender co-starring tandem. As the composition moves to its early heart the green fig leaf and aromatic lavender remain now as co-stars adding slightly tart grapefruit to the mix with additional subtle melon support. During the late dry-down the composition eschews most of its sweetness turning distinctly ambery with supporting green oakmoss and dry woods through the finish. Projection is very good and longevity good at about 8-10 hours on skin.

Ever since Good Life for Men was discontinued I have read many praising the composition, and demand must be there as prices have steadily increased. Just like many other discontinued compositions, however, the legend is often larger than the actual result so it is time to see if Good Life for Men really deserves its stellar reputation. I have worn the composition three days in a row and am again wearing it as I write this review. I am afraid despite my love of its classy bottle, for me Good Life for Men is really not so good. Oh yes, it does have some green aspects that are appealing, like the slightly synthetic smelling fig leaf, but the clover derived green sweetness that makes itself known early and hangs around with the fig through the mid-section is too sweet for my tastes. The woody amber dry-down is nothing new either, with only some green oakmoss adding an interesting twist, though far from original either. At the end of the day, this composition must have been designed to appeal to Davidoff's Cool Water crowd, as that really was their big hit (by the same perfumer Bourdon, no less) but alas, lightning rarely strikes twice and Cool Water in its original vintage form is a lot better composition than Good Life for Men. The bottom line is the approximately $170 per 125ml bottle on the aftermarket Good Life for Men is a valiant attempt by Davidoff and Bourdon to revive the house's greatest commercial success, Cool Water, but while appealing this "good" 3 star out of 5 rated composition comes up a bit short.
01st June, 2015 (last edited: 02nd June, 2015)

Eau de Charlotte by Annick Goutal

I've had a small bottle of this for a while and finally tested it today. I do not know if my bottle had "turned" or if it was simply not to my liking, but I had to wash it off after thirty minutes. It was sickly sweet, and it made me unhappy.

I did not get any green notes, only gourmand. Just not good gourmand. It really takes something amazing to be a likable gourmand for me, though. I was expecting a lot more green based on comments.
01st June, 2015

Giorgio for Men by Giorgio Beverly Hills

Giorgio for Men BH may well be brazen, unregenerate schlock, which I confess I love without reservation. Wearing too much of this certainly will result in you being greeted by others as a long lost (illegitimate) son. And its air-raid siren decibel level only increases in warm weather. Nevertheless, for some reason I decided to wear it to an informal early Summer garden party at a country estate in Virginia this past weekend. All I did was spray once on each hem of my jeans. Normally even two sprays would be constitute heavy ordnance of Giorgio, but the outdoor setting, the distance afforded by this oddly remote application, and lack of contact with body heat made Giorgio just the thing -- improbably breezy and slightly transparent but clearly present for hours. For what it is worth, I recommend this as a great way to have this old warhorse up and running like a colt. No mosquito bites on my ankles either.
01st June, 2015

Blanche Immortelle by Atelier Cologne

A tasteful whitewash job on one of perfumery's most distinctive and challenging notes, retaining the savory and curry-like facets of immortelle, but none of the cloying syrup. It smells almost edible although it lacks the heft of a true gourmand. Unfortunately the transition from top notes to base notes is fairly rapid with a mildly smoky sandalwood base bringing up the rear within the hour.

A lukewarm thumbs up for this mortal immortelle.
01st June, 2015

Cuir6 by Pekji

All things already done, seen, smelled! How boring! Give me a toilet that I want to die for a holy cause of diarrhea! Ops, this isn't "holy shit"!
01st June, 2015

Eau Mer by Pekji

Either you have courage or you have not! Either you are an artist or you're pathetic! This looks like a job badly copied.
How boring! Another perfume for bloggers!

There are many unpretentious perfumers because they can't be pretentious as they demand the "dirty work" to bloggers!

In fact it seems that bloggers know perfectly to define what is beautiful and what is ugly! The both, perfumer and blogger, are a combination as dog and owner, where the dog is obviously the perfumer.

Bloggers, you need dogs! A dog/perfumer is the only thing on earth that loves you more than you love yourself.
01st June, 2015

Paul Smith Man 2 by Paul Smith

Completely derivative but (barely) decent enough citrus-sandalwood-lavender Oriental fragrance ten years later on the trends. Smooth, soft, slightly “dark” and quite sweet, a bit powdery and mildly spicy (sweet, “round” notes of tonka and cardamom), reminding me of so many other fragrances I have a hard time staying focused on it. Trying to blend the crisp Oriental elegance of Declaration & friends, the “feminine” powderiness of Dior Homme & friends, and the “archetypal alpha male coworker” feel of Armani Code & friends. With echoes of Body Kouros too, and maybe Bulgari Man. The only note which doesn’t smell plastic is tonka. A bit juvenile and depressingly cheap but there’s worse around – anyway I think it’s discontinued, so nevermind (and don’t bother looking for it).

5/10
01st June, 2015

Holy Shit by Pekji

Nothing particularly bold or challenging here for me: like many other contemporary “dirty” scents, on my skin Holy Shit seems way more mild and mannered than one may assume by reading the notes. Initially quite pleasant, too: a sort of aromatic-woody-animalic concoction with a really well-put harmony between a leathery-tar-animalic base stuffed with lots of cloves, ultra-dry smoky woods (so smoky and salty they smell almost “meat-y”), a hint of civet, contrasting with something on top that I can’t detect precisely, but basically a sort of really graceful, velvety sage-lavender-incense breeze with some resinous warmth, maybe with a bit of vanilla. It will tame down and vanish (too) soon, but it’s nice until it’s there. Somehow close to several works by O’Driù, mostly for the same contrast between “angel and devil” – dirty/dry/dark notes versus aromatic/soothing/smooth ones. And also to some artisanal brands like AbdesSalaam Attar, just with a more modern and “dark” twist – so again, as for Cuir6 by the same house I’m thinking also of Sonoma Scents, Kerosene and that new indie family mostly for a sort of common ground of inspirations (“post-modern desolation” blended with “archaic nature”). Holy Shit smells more natural, less avantgarde, kind of more amateurish than them (not a flaw per se), but fans of these brands will probably enjoy this.

So, catchy at first but... well, a bit short of breath for me overall. Like for Cuir6, moving past the intriguing opening, Holy Shit kind of “loses” its magic soon, revealing itself as a competent, yet not completely successful sort of exercise (I guess around “contrasts” this time) rather than a proper, consistent “full” work of perfumery – at least as I like to consider perfumes. Once the nice opening moves on, you remain with an extremely linear and discreet accord of cloves, dry-salty smoked woods and a hint of civet, which means a smell at the same time “monolithic” and “basic” – kind of bland for me, in other words. Or “scarce”, if you want, both in terms of projection and texture. There’s plenty of scents managing to get the most out of a really basic but totally creative texture; this doesn’t for me, at least not completely. Mostly because it isn’t really either creative or bold/daring enough. It feels more like a really ordinary base for an animalic/leather/woody fragrance, waiting for a whole creative work to come giving it a meaning and some drive. Compare this with any vintage civet/leather scents in terms of texture and evolution to get what I mean, or even just to more contemporary similar stuff by any other brand I’ve mentioned above. Not a matter of classic taste versus modernity – I don’t really get anything “modern” here, and I surely would crave for that. Don’t get me wrong, Holy Shit is decent and surely promising, but also considering the price, kind of half-baked and maybe a bit premature in my opinion. Worthy a sniff more for the clearly nice quality of the materials.

6-6,5/10
01st June, 2015

Armani Privé Sable Or by Giorgio Armani

This new Armani Privé Sable Or is an entirely different creation to Armani Privé's Sable Fumé which is being released at the same time.

Instead of Sable Fumé's smoky frankincense, the star of this show is a quite creamy iris with a tonka/vanilla/benzoin base. It begins with a recognisable (but clearly high quality) and intense iris which reminds me somewhat of Zegna's Florentine Iris.

I do not detect any violet at all but the sandalwood and the tonka/vanilla/benzoin are clearly present which lends this an almost gourmand feel. Together these accords leave the impression somewhat of (not too sweet) white chocolate.

Although this may not be as 'interesting' as Sable Fumé this is a bit more my style of fragrance and I suspect that I will get more use out of this one; especially in cooler weather.

As expected the presentation of Sable Or is stunningly beautiful (see photos below)! The bottle is gorgeous and is wrapped and tied in an Armani fabric sheath. There is a small metal plate on the front of the bottle which I think resembles a sand dune swept by the wind.

Like all of Armani Les Éditions Couture releases this is limited to only 1000 bottles worldwide so if you are a collector grab it while you can.
01st June, 2015

Isparta 26 by Parfumerie Generale

Isparta is a turkish city in the snowy mountains of Taurus, with its aromatic forests of pine, juniper and cedar. Isparta is an agricultural town surrounded by lakes and beautiful areas rich in wild flowers.

The ingredients for making a great perfume were all here!

The city is located in the southwest of Turkey. Known as the capital of the rose, it gives rise to an important production of roses: essential oil, rose water and soaps, detergents, jams, candy, liquor, rose colonies.
This perfume opens the way for a new toothpaste for children!

Like all religious people, even the Turks like the rose, which in Turkey is called "gul", which also means "smile".
In Turkey, when you are a guest in someone's home you will serve with traditional rose water on your hands.
Now the friendly Turks will also serve you a toothpaste after meals!

So, GUL or better Glu…glugluglu!

Smile! With your ambroxan blueberry teeth!
01st June, 2015

Duc de Vervins L'Extreme by Houbigant

The same, but different. If you already own Drakkar Noir, Azarro Pour Homme, Brut, Aramis Tuscany, Tsar or even Gucci Nobile you will enjoy this as a variation in the Fougere style. All of these share the same lineage with minor personality differences that offer a pleasing variety to anyone's collection.

L'Extreme is the most basic and straight forward of this group with bitter bergamot up front, coniferous lavender in the middle and closing with a trail of clean oak moss. To my senses, L'Extreme has a simpler construction with an improved longevity over the EDT. The EDT flirts with rosemary and geranium in the heart, which to me pushes it into "Brut" territory.

Don't overthink it. A mature, masculine choice that performs in any season and just "smells good." Pick this one up, set the standard and let the other guys worry about batch codes. Thumbs up.
01st June, 2015

Armani Privé Sable Fumé by Giorgio Armani

Although the Armani Privé line does have its detractors (excluding me) if there is a consensus among the commentary it is usually that the one thing the Privé line does well is incense; notably in its original offering – Bois d'Encens and to a lesser extent the more recent Encens Satin.

In Sable Fumé the Armani Privé line once again highlights incense in all its glory with frankincense the star of the show. It starts out a touch sour/salty which can come across almost as the presence of citrus, but if the notes listed are to be accepted (& I have no reason to doubt their validity) it must be a combination of the frankincense and iris that creates this effect.

As stated in the Armani press on the www.parfuma.com website Sable Fumé evokes “grains of sand carried by a warm breeze” which is as apt a description as any I could conjure up.

Despite the initial and quite short lived sourness, this evolves into a very warm, smoky, and sweet frankincense and iris scent that reminds me very much of the style of an Amouage creation. The benzoin and Ambroxan add the warm sweetness needed to provide a counter to the ever present (but still wonderful) frankincense. I’ve only worn this once so far but my initial impression is that it’s long lasting and the sillage is perfect.

In keeping with previous Armani Privé Les Éditions Couture fragrances, Sable Fumé’s presentation is absolutely beautiful (see photos below)! The bottle and the colour of the golden olive liquid inside are gorgeous and it also comes with a purple stopper that has a smoky stainless steel aspect and is wrapped and tied in an Armani fabric sheath. There is even a small lacquered plate on the front of the bottle with sand imbedded inside!

Due to its (1000 bottles only worldwide) limited availability and hefty price tag, this is probably just for serious collectors; which is a crying shame. This beautiful fragrance should be able to be enjoyed by all. If you get the opportunity to test this out at an Armani boutique don’t hesitate.
01st June, 2015

La Fumée Maroc by Miller Harris

Miller Harris La Fumee Maroc is a sort of Tom Ford Sahara Noir's fancy cousin (despite notable differences) with its hyper plummy-liquorous-burnt sugary opening and the "by rose-woods-cashmeran veined" highly resinous final evolution. I detect a touch of something rubbery-synthetic (or may be connected with a partially "aromachemically oriented" fruitiness) but the general atmosphere is oriental, exotic and mysterious (despite an hidden urban background) with a final plain incensey smokiness (and a touch of rooty-herbal bitterness) pervading all the elements. Really voluptuous and rich aroma with a touch of chic, anyway I still prefer the first La Fumee.
01st June, 2015

Cuoio by Odori

Nothing really leathery here, rather vetiver, some pine-herbal notes, and a sort of sweet-spicy amber accord, a whiff of licorice which I guess is due to vetiver and patchouli. Musk on the base. A really classic balsamic-spicy-woody fougère quite reminding me of Haschish for Man by Veejaga, and to a lesser extent, Snuff by Schiaparelli and many other similar “old school drugstore” fragrances for man, just a bit darker on woods and patchouli. Same really average quality too, if not more mediocre. Niche at its best – ripping off lesser known stuff at three times the price.

5/10
31st May, 2015 (last edited: 01st June, 2015)

Jasmin Rouge by Tom Ford

Oh how I wanted to fall in love with this one! With a name like "Jasmin Rouge" I imagined a naughty side to the lovely white flower I adore. However, on me, it was meek, kind, and just sort of sat there.

Today, was a very humid day; a rather perfect day for experiencing a scent such as this, but still, it only rested on my skin, and never really did much for me. I could smell the Jasmine note, but it was nothing even close to what I experience when I wear Serge Lutens' A la nuit. I searched for the Labdanum, something I absolutely adore, and never found it. Perhaps the Clary Sage ate it?

Sigh. I am going to give my sample another go at a later date, and I will update once I do. For now, this will not make my purchase list.
31st May, 2015
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