Fragrance Reviews from March 2009

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    foetidus's avatar

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    Extract of West Indian Limes by Geo F Trumper


    Bright and tart and clean: West Indian Extract of Limes by Trumper is as close to the enticing smell of fresh squeezed limes as any thing I’ve smelled, and that includes the squeezed limes fresh from the lime tree in the backyard. And like the aroma of those squeezed limes, Extract of Limes doesn’t last, but lasting isn’t what it’s about. This is about the taste / aroma of fresh, fresh limes and the mouth puckering sweetness that only limes have. This is about sun and fresh sea air. This is perfect… Whoops, hirch_ duckfinder already said that. Well, he’s right…

    01st March, 2009

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    Grapefruit Tea by Demeter Fragrance Library


    First grapefruit, then tea – both of them sour or bitter… and I do enjoy that about Grapefruit Tea – its absence of sweet. The grapefruit note is quite nice, although short-lived, and the tea note is weak, but longer lasting. I’m not really very excited about this but it’s an okay scent. As usual with Demeter: Grapefruit Tea has barely adequate sillage and it’s short on lasting power.

    01st March, 2009

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    Skye by Geo F Trumper


    A pleasant and clean scent – fresh with rosemary, neroli, and ylang ylang: This is a charming combination, and it forms an intriguing opening accord. It is light and borderline synthetic, but just barely borderline and the synthetics are easily ignored. This is the kind of opening and scent that could go anywhere and be anything. I like it… it has that feel-good aura, and it’s the kind that could hardly ever be misapplied or offensive. Unfortunately it’s also the kind of scent that disappears quickly from my sense of smell. I don’t think it is a short lasting as it at first appears. I develop anosmia to it rather quickly, and the dry down is a light, white-musky skin scent of the sort that also likes to disappear on me with haste. I like Skye but it is too frivolous and too short lasting and too adequately replaced by a typical designer scent.


    01st March, 2009

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    Spanish Leather by Geo F Trumper


    There is not much happening in Spanish Leather Cologne: It’s linear, but as is often the case, linearity is not a negative. What Spanish Leather has to offer is a calm, rich, masculine leather / wood scent that relies on an attractive solid, low-key virile elegance to carry it through. It doesn’t really move… It doesn’t need to. Spanish Leather Cologne strikes me as old fashioned and traditional, but in a very, very good way: It emanates loads of quality, character, and depth. I enjoy it and I can count on one hand how many leather fragrances I can say that about. The leather presentation in Spanish Leather actually comes through quite strongly to my oversensitive-to-leather nose. This is about as leathery as I can tolerate in a fragrance and still enjoy it, and enjoy it I do…


    01st March, 2009

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    Sugar Cookie by Demeter Fragrance Library


    Sugar Cookie is a miss as far as I’m concerned. I get a rather solid synthetic note, but the worst of it is that I can’t identify the smell with the smell of the sugar cookies I’m familiar with: I don’t perceive sugar cookies as being spicy. I am used to the plain sugar and vanilla cookies and that’s all I want to smell: sugar, butter, and vanilla. I guess things can go wrong when you try to olfactorily duplicate memories from childhood: Everyone’s memories are a bit different, all use their own recipes. On my skin Sugar Cookie has the poor longevity typical of most Demeters.

    01st March, 2009

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    Eucris by Geo F Trumper


    What I mainly get from Eucris are the moss and, to a lesser extent, the musk. As usual, when I encounter the moss / musk dominance in an accord, I am not impressed – I guess it’s not a favorite. The spices do not come through very strongly to my nose, and the spice notes that do come across are a bit muddled and unclear. As much as I usually enjoy cumin and pepper in fragrances, I can only find an echo of them here – the moss overwhelms. The floral dimension in the heart could have been an excellent contribution of the fragrance: The florals are full and rich with some substantial indole action from the sweet jasmine, but the accord itself is smudged by the unclear spice notes and the too-strong moss that gives a heavy soapy feel to the scent. The soapiness is not the winning kind to my nose. In the base I get very little sandalwood coming through, so what I’m left with is just a not very exciting soapy / mossy emanation from my skin. Eucris is composed of good ingredients and the movement performs nicely. It has very good projection and longevity and is a well-made fragrance, but I can’t find the love.


    01st March, 2009

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    Ormonde Man by Ormonde Jayne


    A woody green with medium impact spices forms the opening accord: To my nose, the juniper berry / cardamom create the dominant notes, but they shouldn’t be referred to as “dominant” — they are not “strong” in the usual sense of the word, but they are the most recognizable notes. The bergamot seems to be blended nicely into the accord – blended so well that I don’t recognize it in the matrix. Of the spices, I don’t find the coriander as an identifiable note, but the combination of pink pepper and cardamom create one of those intriguing accords that tread the thin line between “wonderful” and “I just don’t know about this…” The spices do have a bit of the questionable “sweat socks” vibration. The refinement and balance of the opening is outstanding and it is long, long lasting. The middle accord doesn’t show up very strongly for me. I don’t get a clear aoud note as in the Montale aouds, but I do get an excellently refined woody (aoud and hemlock) accord whose smoothness could be attributed to aoud. The hemlock note is outstanding, but I would like the whole heart level to have more strength and substance. The drydown presents a bit darker, deeper aspect to the fragrance than the sophisticated accords that preceded it, and it gains a little more presence: I even get a modicum of “raw” which, counter-intuitively, adds to the elegance. On my skin Ormonde Man has incredible longevity – I can smell traces of it on my showered skin the next day.

    I’m a bit turned off by the opening accord and it lasts so long that I can’t overlook my reaction to it. I do, however, see Ormonde Man as a smooth, beautifully designed and constructed fragrance that legitimately deserves its reputation as an extraordinary fragrance. I’m sure it would be worthy for HG status to those whose chemistry it agrees with.


    01st March, 2009

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    Kahala Hawaiian Surf by Demeter Fragrance Library


    I’m not usually a fan of ozonics and I’ve never been to Hawaii, but I enjoy this scent. It is ozonic, and it’s fresh and clean and all those good things. Skulking under the ozonic accord there’s a soft suntan lotion note and a soft floral that I can’t identify. I think I can smell some sand or mineral in there too – whatever, it’s pleasant and enjoyable. There is a synthetic tinge to Kahala Hawaiian Surf, but I usually get that in ozonic fragrances, so it’s no big deal. Sillage is OK and longevity is typical Demeter – short. If ozonics were my thing I think I’d get this because it is so nicely put together.

    01st March, 2009

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    Dragon by Parfums Raffy


    Opens light with the citrus obscured by a wood accord, which in turn is obscured by its own reticence. I get very little aroma from this fragrance, and, judging from some of the other reviews, that is a good thing. What I get is an unidentifiable synthetic note coupled to an oily background. It’s stale and it has little sillage or longevity, which can be looked upon as a good thing. In spite of my overall dislike of Dragon, I can say something good about it: It’s not as bad as Mogul, but still not recommended.


    01st March, 2009

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    Mogul by Parfums Raffy


    I get no citrus in the opening. I get a synthetic smelling lavender that is struggling to stay afloat in a sea of perfumy alcohol. Its struggles are short lived. I feel compelled to immediately wash it off because it’s giving me a headache…probably some leather note in there somewhere. Mogul is in a place that I do not want to be.


    01st March, 2009

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    Absinth by Nasomatto


    This stuff comes on STRONG. I am immediately hit with a powerfully resinous vetiver / absinthe (wormwood), and there are some powerful dry aromatic herbs in the mixture, too. I had thought I liked things as resinous as they can get, but I might have to take that back -- this one goes almost too far. The wormwood is rather diminutive and the vetiver is a beautiful, strong, rawish note. I don’t think it’s the wormwood or the vetiver that causes my indecisive response: The aggressiveness is primarily accomplished by the herbs. This opening and heart are tolerable to me but are definitely on the edge of being too potent… I don’t find Absinth highly wearable for the first forty-five minutes, but after that is a different story: After the original accords are spent, there comes a magnificent drydown that has the absenthe, vetiver, herbal smoothness, fullness, and depth of an extraordinary skin scent, but it also has projection and sillage that moves it above the skin scent category. Absinth is a rather linear fragrance with strong sillage at first, and eventually followed by a discreet sillage for the drydown. It doesn’t have the best longevity on my skin – about two and one-half to three hours, but I love it for its natural, rich accords provided in the drydown: I’d say that it is a hesitant thumbs up.


    01st March, 2009

    foetidus's avatar

    United States United States

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    Hindu Grass by Nasomatto


    Very earthy… Hindu Grass’s primary persona revolves around patchouli with the herb and grass notes strongly shadowing in the background. Immediately upon application the dry, dark, natural patchouli grabs hold and dominates the fragrance. It is a lush, broad-spectrumed patchouli that is super smooth and glossy and the accord incorporates the additionally enriching elements of tobacco and coffee into its seamless, rippleless mixture. Counterpointed into that primary accord are absolutes of grasses and herbs. The patchouli accord is beautiful in its notes and structure, and compelling in its naturalness, and the natural grassy / hay sharpness in the mixture moves the patchouli to levels of the ethereal. After an hour or two, the patchouli picks up a discreet element of sweetness. I’m thinking amber, but I wouldn’t swear to it. It stays this way – patchouli and grass / herbs and the slight sweetener – and all too quickly loses its sillage making power. It lasts as an excellent skin scent for a couple hours longer. I would prefer a bit stronger sillage and more longevity, but it is a beautiful fragrance.

    01st March, 2009

    iamthekow's avatar



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    A Taste of Heaven by By Kilian

    I cannot tell any substantial difference between A Taste of Heaven and Bond No. 9's New Haarlem. With that in mind, New Haarlem is probably one of the best fragrances from that house, and improving on it is a cause for celebration. A Taste of Heaven lacks the coffee note of NH, and instead replaces it with a stronger vanilla presence. This sounds rather boring in theory but in fact works out very well in practice. By Kilian's is among the priciest niche houses around, but I wouldn't accuse anyone of over-paying for this if they wanted a different take on an excellent fall/winter gourmand like New Haarlem.

    01st March, 2009

    ubuandibeme's avatar

    United States United States

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    Vol de Nuit by Guerlain

    I am fortunate to sample Vol de Nuit in its' vintage extrait form, due to the generosity of another basenoter, and am completely stunned by Jacques Guerlains' luxurious blend of notes. Tantalizing spices come alive from the first spritz and are sprinkled throughout the entire evolution of VdN. They add interest, but never overpower. Vanilla is also an everpresent force, creamy, rich, and binding to the greens - softening any potentially sharp or bitter edges. Galbanum, Oakmoss and assorted greens come exactly as expected ~ bold! Iris, wow, it is more pronounced than I would have guessed. Doughy, powdery, yet soft and plush like velvet. I'm anxious to sample other strengths of Vol de Nuit, and am curious to try more current formulations as well. A single whiff of VdN transports my soul to an era of perfumery long forgotten. It is a treasure, a masterpiece, a privilege to experience. Utterly gorgeous!

    01st March, 2009

    ubuandibeme's avatar

    United States United States

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    Amir by Laura Tonatto

    Initially, Amir smells to my nose exactly like the opening of Tabu (vintage cologne). It is a bit dusty/musty - probably some incense notes in the mix - leading into a gorgeous amber. In short order Amirs' evolution veers away from Tabu completely, and really gets completely lost in rich golden amber. Just when I think the amber is going to maintain, I must take another whiff. It actually subsides and gives way to a minty sort of note...which I don't love, but it's not off-putting. At this stage of the game my feeling for this juice is that it would make a fabulous masculine. I ended up spritzing some Ambre Extreme over it - to revive the amber note, which worked out just fine. I will give Amir a thumbs up, but will not purchase a full bottle, because of the minty ending.

    01st March, 2009

    ubuandibeme's avatar

    United States United States

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    Fire Island by Bond No. 9

    Fire Island fragrance is appropriately scented fun! A dab of floral within a melange of musks creates a lovely and wearable beachy perfume! At first, I was sort of 'meh' on it...but after a couple hours I was sniffing and re-sniffing my wrist. As it wears on my skin I'm reminded of Barbasol shaving cream! Beyond beachy, it smells fresh and moist. I think it's unique and wonderful.

    01st March, 2009

    ubuandibeme's avatar

    United States United States

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    Coney Island by Bond No. 9

    What I really get from Coney Island is Lemon * Acquatic * Woods. I did not detect any of the carmel, chocolate, cinnamon or vanilla - but that's okay. This stuff is breezy island fun that lasts and lasts and lasts...2 thumbs up, with a smile!

    01st March, 2009

    Zerby's avatar



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    Santos Concentrée by Cartier

    I owned this one not long after it's release. I loved it. Truly loved it!!!! This is what a fragrance should smell like. I loved both of them. I was in 9th grade when I had this one. It was a hand me down though. I do plan to buy it again.

    01st March, 2009

    tnamey's avatar

    United States United States

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    Eau Parfumée au Thé Rouge by Bulgari

    My significant other's perfume when she and I feel erotic. The "fig" must bring out the animal in me. I consider this a remarkably inventive creation and one the three best scents for a female. Not in wide use, exclusive, and unique, with staying power. Bravo Bulgari. Clearly a scent for not everyone, but for a women who wants to project a most feminine singularity, this is it! I love this frag!!!!!!!!

    01st March, 2009 (Last Edited: 10th June, 2009)

    rodent's avatar

    France France

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    L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme by Guerlain

    L'Instant is a triumph and an absolute classic. It is a real chameleon -- its opening is fairly crisp and classic, but it progressively mutates into a soft, moist gourmand within a couple of hours. And yet, unlike so many gourmands, it isn't gimmicky. It's able to pull this off by hedging its bets across a gigantic array of beautifully-blended ingredients without over-committing to any in particular. As others have pointed out, it could easily have been marketed as a unisex -- yet it easily wears a discreet masculinity thanks to the vetiver, patchouli, and astonishingly inventive anise, all of which give it a bitter chill. I think of this as a modern Habit Rouge: different from everything else, yet timeless. At a more mundane level, it's a gourmand for people who hate the brash, somewhat vulgar examples of the genre. Everything about this juice reeks of quality -- including the stately, heavy bottle. Superb!

    01st March, 2009

    jathanas's avatar

    Australia Australia

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    Blue Amber by Montale

    My journey of amber exploration is over!

    I have found my holy-grail amber in Blue Amber. I've sourced the parfum concentration which might differ from the "eau du parfum" as it is more concentrated. The development is linear but in the nicest possible way; from start to end the wearer is enveloped in a beautiful rich amber. The warmth that this fragrance radiates is appreciated by all. I've received compliments from both sexes, and what's even more notable is that Blue Amber is worn by my wife making it the first fragrance we've shared. Longevity is just outstanding, I can still detect it on my skin 24 hours after application.

    This fragrance is just divine and Montale deserves all kudos.

    01st March, 2009

    DaKnows's avatar

    United States United States

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    Brooklyn by Bond No. 9

    I had fairly high hopes for this Bond, a house whose unisex line is usually too feminine or exotic for my taste. Brooklyn is not a complete letdown. Were it more reasonably priced, I would probably buy it. But this juice doesn't reek of exquisite blending or high quality ingredients. It starts off with a heavy dose of cardomom tempered nicely with grapefruit. The cardamom lasts well into the drydown, where the fragrance peters out. Like Bond's description, no one note shines. It certainly smells nice, and more masculine than anything else Bond has done, with the exception of the extraordinary Riverside Drive. I could see myself wearing this work, but thats probably it. It lacks the decisive edge I expect from fragrances priced this high. Unfortunately Brooklyn seems like another high-priced-but-average outing from Bond.

    01st March, 2009

    Somerville Metro Man's avatar

    United States United States

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    Coromandel by Chanel

    Chanel Coromandel

    One thing I can say about all of the Chanel exclusifs I've worn so far is they don't feel the same to me. Coromandel starts off with a patchouli and spice top. Now this is not the patchouli of the Summer of Love this is the patchouli of dried,powdered root.Dry and desiccated and light, mixed with the spiciness this is an unusually light start for a ptachouli-forward fragrance.The patchouli remains throughout the development as in the heart I get some florals beofre the chocolate accord makes itself known. As before, this is the chocolate of cocoa powder dusty and rich. The base is amber and musk and is the most conventional part of this scent on me. Thankfully what has gone before was unconventional enough that I forgive it. How this is not marketed as unisex is quite beyond me.

    01st March, 2009

    Somerville Metro Man's avatar

    United States United States

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    Neil Morris for Takashimaya New York by Takashimaya

    Neil Morris for Takashimaya New York

    I just am enraptured by this one. Neil Morris has created his first scent for Takashimaya in New York at the end of 2008. This scent feels like the synthesis of many themes I have enjoyed in previous scents by Mr. Morris. This also manages to evoke the asian esthetic of the store, Takashimaya, this is made for. It starts off with the fizz of aldehydes, currant and bergamot. The aldehydic fireworks are beautifully offset with the currant and bergamot. Then the floral heart of this comes alive with cherry and plum blossom combined with narcissus. All of my favorite Neil Morris scents contain narcissus in them. This time he lets it support the very asian mix of cherry and plum blossoms. The base is cedar and bamboo and the mix of these two notes ground this with a woody base that feels perfect. This scent reminds me of a Japanese garden in spring as the trees are full of blossoms. It is another winner from Neil Morris for me.

    01st March, 2009

    surreality's avatar

    United States United States

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    Ambra by Omnia Profumo

    Imagine a slab of a thick, rich, chewy vanilla nougat laced with orange essence and studded with almonds. Imagine that this has been distilled into a perfume. The result is Omnia Ambra. I'm not ordinarily into gourmands but Ambra is the exception. The initial blast of vanilla, orange and almond is almost mouth watering and settles down onto the skin to become a beautiful vanillic amber with just a touch of a clean musk tying everything together. This has excellent longevity 12+ hours and projects off the skin nicely to provide the wearer with subtle hints of the perfume all day.

    01st March, 2009

    ausamamira's avatar

    Jordan Jordan

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    Sentiment for Men by Escada

    i smell very generic thing at the beginning ..then nothing !!!!!!!!!

    01st March, 2009

    ausamamira's avatar

    Jordan Jordan

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    Jacomo de Jacomo Rouge by Jacomo

    to my nose ...a very light version of le male !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! not bad ...i like it .... but not a top priority to buy

    01st March, 2009

    ausamamira's avatar

    Jordan Jordan

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    Gucci Pour Homme II by Gucci

    Great smell but so subtle......i hope if it was a littbe bit stronger ....i won't buy it indeed

    01st March, 2009

    ausamamira's avatar

    Jordan Jordan

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    Narciso Rodriguez for Him by Narciso Rodriguez

    I dont like this kind of strong perfumes ... there is something in it goes directly to burn my nose.... its like eating a very hot pepper that makes you forget how deleciuos the food is .....

    01st March, 2009

    ausamamira's avatar

    Jordan Jordan

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    Guerlain Homme by Guerlain

    I liked the openning .. somehow similar to allure homme edition blanch ...but i dont actually like the drydown... strong note of vetiver that i dont really like

    01st March, 2009

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