Perfume Reviews

Latest Perfume Reviews

Total Reviews: 130954

Portos by Balenciaga

Gorgeous spicy leathery fougere from the 80's with that "old school" drydown.

Great longevity!

Now discontinued but try it if you can find it!

Thumbs up!
27th October, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Purple Fantasy by Guerlain

The opening notes is a fresh-fruity blast, peaches, apricot with a touch or bergamot, and enhanced by an overarching but thin layer of Japanese sencha green tea, with a slightly roasted kocha tea and a Darjeeling vibe shining through at times. A pleasant start of the purple voyage.

The drydown brings on sweeter moments, with jasmine in the foreground and given depth by a coconut aroma that is lashed with a woodsy undertone. There is an attempt of sandalwood hat is too bland and synthetic to excite one's olfactory receptors. In the base this mix shifts to develop a more sweetish-creamy character. It is never intrusive or restrained and exudes an overall well-behaved elegance.

I get moderate sillage, very god projection and a splendid fifteen hours of longevity on me.

This spring or autumn scent - good for day and for evening - is well crafted and performs convincingly, but the ingredients are of a somewhat too generic nature and lack colour and vibrancy. Still, pleasant and agreeable it is indeed. 2.75/5.
27th October, 2016

Angel: Liqueur de Parfum by Thierry Mugler

This is NAUGHTY!

It's got a really pronounced animalic honey/beeswax note. But that seems to have taken the place of some of the patchouli, and I find this version to be smoother and more...intimate isn't exactly the word, but it's lower key. Certainly it smells like a perfume, and basically like Angel, but the honey note gives it a skanky, worn-in feeling that I realize my favorites like Shalimar Ode a la Vanille and Tom Ford's Noir Pour Femme also have. These are perfumes that don't care if I like them, while the original Angel is trying HARD.

The feeling of nonchalance is something I usually associate with the great ones from Guerlain and Chanel. It's like a magic French trick - how can something as drop-dead elegant as No. 5 Eau Premiere or the old Cristalle (or an ancient Hermes bag) just work its way into basically any situation and always be right? But these things just ARE. I think the magic runs deep into the culture, and you can't put it on like an affectation, though you CAN wear the perfume. And I do.

This flanker isn't elegant like that, but it's sure delicious. The pineapple isn't to be feared - it's caramelized, like in pineapple upside down cake, and works with the warmth of the other notes rather than going all tart froot.

Lasts forever, and the fun part is that once it settles in, it smells like you put it on the day before and had a late night.

27th October, 2016
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Hubar Show all reviews
United States

Jones New York by Jones New York

Beautiful fragrance, though I agree that mostly the florals come through Jasmine & White Rose are dominant on me. I definitely get Lime & Mandarin with hint of peach with sandalwood noticeable in background. Even though I've had this scent for quite a while as of year 2016 it doesn't seem to have changed as it is still how I remember from many years ago.
27th October, 2016

1916 by Myrurgia

Stardate 20161026:

A traditional Eau de Cologne. Nicely done. Better than many out there.
As mentioned by others longevity is EdC type so dont expect it to last a work day
At the price it is going for ($5/oz vintage) a no brainer.
26th October, 2016

Kimonanthe by Diptyque

Kimonanthe is Diptyque at both its best and its worst. On the one hand, this is the most compelling scent they’ve issued in years; on the other, it exemplifies the age-old department store trick of the shiny facade with questionable substance. This scent smells fantastic for the first hour or so but a tad generic after that. What it comes down to is the fact that Diptyque is a mass-production brand with wide distribution, so using materials of notable character or quality is out of the question. What the brand does well, though, is invest their budget in perfumers who know how to make the most out of basic synthetics like ambroxan (that powered their previous release) and the sandalwood synths that dominate this one. The 34 Collection — supposedly the up-scale scents of the line — are simply tossing in a mid-tier natural here and there, cranking the concentration from ‘weak’ to ‘acceptable,’ and using that as justification to market the scent as something it’s not. I own a few Diptyque bottles and for as well-blended as they are, they tend to fall short in other critical areas.

Having said all that, this one is worth your time, even if it’s just for the first couple of hours that it’s on your skin. It’s an encapsulating smoky tea scent with a milky apricot thread running throughout. It smells scarily close to Slumberhouse’s Jeke, only less punishing and without any of the natural absolutes that make Jeke such a wall. It also riffs on Kiste by the same brand, borrowing the metallic tea accord quite literally. The main difference is that Jeke’s clove note is missing, replaced instead with an osmanthus accord that reads as somewhat peach-like (the Kiste similarity). The effect is that for a couple of hours, Kimonanthe is a monolithic, smoky, fascinating tea perfume with hints of an oriental structure. It smells great upfront: unique (unless you’ve smelled the Slumberhouse scents its riffing on), balanced, and comforting. What’s disappointing — but understandable given the mass-produced nature of the brand — is that the remainder of the ride is entry-level stuff: a well-constructed but mundane synthetic woody amber with a touch of earthy patchouli and cedar. Once I’d smelled the base, I couldn’t not detect it in the opening when reapplying. For fans of Osmanthe Yunnan looking for something more bodied, this is very different — it’s far more opaque and more about smokey tea than glassy apricot. However, for those who found Jeke to be a bit too claustrophobic, this offers a more commercial alternative.
26th October, 2016

La Rose Jacqueminot by Coty

La Rose Jacqueminot is nice. It smells modern, not dated; a fruity, creamy, floral perfume, and it's easy to wear. I think I may smell a note in common with Chanel No. 19.
26th October, 2016

Aramis by Aramis

Probably because I was enamored in the Dior Eau Sauvage in the 60's, my first recollection of this had me dismiss it as a "Brash" concoction made for an American market. By the early 70's I was taken by Givenchy Gentleman's civet driven Patchouli European brashness.
Turned my nose up at Aramis for years. I was lucky enough to pick up a sample from the 80's that is quite enjoyable.
I'll still wear Cabochard or Lauder for Men or the other Lauder bitter greens instead.
26th October, 2016

Spice and Wood by Creed

Stardate 20161026:

This is one of the few Creeds that I like. It is a nice synthetic fragrance that has the Creed signature base (kinda like Aventus Base).
There is some spice but gets drowned in the synthetic fruit.
I would recommend it if you have the moolah.
26th October, 2016

Shooting Stars: Nio by Xerjoff

This makes me think of 4711 cologne, only with way bigger cajones. And waaaaay better lasting power. This has such a lovely fresh, cool feel to it. Zesty, zingy bergamot, tempered by the warmth of the amber, sweetened ever so slightly by the jasmine and with a delicious kick from the cardamom and pink pepper – so, so good. Imagine you’re hiking up a thickly wooded mountain; the trees tower overhead, you can see the sun peeking through the canopy, can feel its warmth, but on the ground, the last lingering bits of the early morning mist swirl around your feet as you walk. The air feels cool and fresh on your hot face as you hike higher and higher, and then you find it – a sparkling pool of crystal clear, ice-cold water, fed from a spring further up the mountain. You scoop up a big handful of water and splash it on your face, enjoying the way it makes your skin tingle, then you eagerly gulp down handful after handful, feeling its coolness all the way down. That’s what this makes me feel like – it’s so deliciously cool and fresh and bracing. Damn this is good. This is destined to remain on my wish list though – the price is a tad scary.
26th October, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Habit Rouge Dress Code by Guerlain

An orangey citrus, freshened up with whiffs of neroli and endowed with a rather nonspecific floral undertone. This is quite a pleasant mix of top notes, but on my skin they are not particularly memorable.

The drydown adds a very subdued spicy backgound notes, which is combined with a somewhat generic woodsy layer that, again, reeks of unexciting but agreeable pleasantness.

Later on, after a rather forgettable attempt at a leather impression, the base announces itself by parading a sweetish tonka impression that constitutes the core chord; together with whiffs of cocoa powder, at times still linked to the restrained background spiciness, they set the tone for the second half of the development.

The performance is impressive, with moderate sillage, excellent projection and a superb longevity of thirteen hours on my skin.

A sweetened autumnal gourmandised and rather synthetic flanker that is quite generic overall and really does not do great credit to the original, at least not the original vintage pre-LVMH version. 2.75/5.
26th October, 2016

Oud Stars : Al-Khatt by Xerjoff

A fruity + jasmine (indolic) + barnyard smell. Excellent stuff.

I first put it on, I found it okay.

BUT!.. shortly after, wow! Awesome fragrance, and I was sold based on the sample. Got a full bottle shortly after.

Probably my favorite Xerjoff so far.
26th October, 2016

Cabochard by Grès

For those that find Tuberose laden Bandit a little hard to take, Cabochard provides the Leathery Bitter Green delight. The Rose, especially in Vintage is extraordinarily and beautifully set against an Oakmoss canvas.
26th October, 2016
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Santal Noble by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

Even though they only have one note in common, for some reason Santal Noble reminds me of Cadavre Exquis, except Santal Noble is a much less ‘in your face’ fragrance. Thinking I might be losing my mind, I asked my husband to smell each of them and he agreed that there is a similarity, but the Santal Noble was much more restrained. Spiced vanilla coffee and sandalwood with a big dash of patchouli, warmed up by the amber. This is good stuff.
25th October, 2016

#3 Notes of Cabernet by Kelly & Jones

Notes of Cabernet? In this juice are there specific Cabernet notes or just "wine/alcohol" notes? I would say it is a berry type smell which overall is well done and does a good job of smelling of Cabernet without having an "alcohol wine smell" coming from your skin. I would say it leans WAY more feminine than male or unisex IMO. Longevity 5 hours projection maybe 2 hours. Overall a slight thumbs up. Enjoy!
25th October, 2016

Cabochard by Grès

This review is for the current EDP, which is widely available at an unbelievably low price for a classic - albeit heavily redacted - fragrance. Cabochard is often compared to Bandit and Azuree, and indeed they are very similar (especially in the drydown); but to my nose it smells more like the current excellent reformulation of Magie Noire, which is more floral than Bandit and Azuree. Cabochard still has its leathery and smoky edge, though. It opens very sharp and green, and mellows into a satisfying modern chypre (i.e. no oakmoss, what an oxymoron!). It retains its structure throughout many hours on my skin, with a healthy sillage. Of course, like most current reformulations, Cabochard EDP isn't as robust as its vintage predecessor - but it's still quite good.
25th October, 2016

Dot by Comme des Garçons

What is this?

Ok, at Commes Des Garçons they're not just responsible for daring and artsy stuff, they also provided us with a plethora of easy to like / pop fragrances that have often set the bar for other mainstream brands to follow. Well, Dot doesn't belong in either of these cathegories. Nothing to do with the avant facets of, say, EDP 2011 (the one in the same melted bottle as Dot) or the plush florals of Luxe Champaca. Nothing to do with the abstractness of the original Stephen Jones. Nothing to do with the daring approach of Guerrilla 1. Dot is a complete failure. A disappointment.

A totally uninspired fruity floral with just a tinge of that metallic-incense base that's typical of several CDGs. Not enough character to stand out amongst the most daring deliveries from the house, not good enough to become one of those minor CDGs that while not shining for originality, they still can do the trick as safe-but-solid fragrances.

Too bad because the bottle is cute.

25th October, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Insolence Eau de Toilette by Guerlain

The top notes consist of a somewhat nonspecific berry fruit mix, poured into a mixer and left standing for a while. There is a whiff of bergamot present at times, as a whiffs of peach. An overlying thin layer of aldehydes adds a fresh impression.

Later on, heading towards the heart notes, a touch of styrax combines with a medium-bright fairly light tuberose impression, with a gentle iris confirming to switch from being fruit-dominated towards floral heart notes; later strengthened by a violet tinge.

Then a very restrained and slightly creamy vanilla heralds the arrival of the base note phase. Through all its developement there is all was a well-behaved sweetness present, which is never strong, never intrusive and never cloying.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and an impressive eleven hours of longevity on my skin.

This is unusual spring creation, at times a bit generic, it develops over time into a subtle but very agreeable composition that is delicate and times and overall well balanced, albeit a bit lacking in intensity at times. The excellent performance lifts into the positive realm - if just by the skin of its teeth. 3/5.
25th October, 2016

Good Life by Davidoff

Stardate 20161024:

A cool water wannabe. I don't see the fuss here. One of the few cases where the decision to discontinue has been a wise one.
Buy cool water and be glad.
25th October, 2016

Noble VII Rock Rose by Clive Christian

This stuff’s dumber than hair but easy to like. What’s hilarious about it is that it smells like a merger of several bro-cheapies — a mashup of the original Varvatos, CK Shock / Euphoria, and at least one of the Zara scents too (the one that knocked of 1 Million) that morph into the same sickly-sweet base used in Armani's diabetes-inducing Myrrhe Impériale. Although I haven’t smelled the Varvatos or the CK scents in some time, they represent a fragrance “type” — which is exactly the mode this is working in, for a laughable $550. The scent: slightly fruity, tobacco-infused, bro-amber cut with a manly-man floral bouquet (GIT’s violet leaf, basically). Given the perfume's name, there's not much in the way of labdanum. Sugary, plump, blurred — pleasant enough but low-IQ. If it were priced around $70, I’d consider it an appealing albeit redundant contribution to saccharine masculines. At this price point, it’s a joke but one that’s consistent with the brand’s usual vulgarity. Cheap yet expensive.
24th October, 2016 (last edited: 25th October, 2016)

Incense Flash by Tauerville

Stardate 20161024:

A nice incense. It is very much like what the house of CdG would churn out. Avignon and Black are its cousin.
Nothing unpleasant - a plain and simple incense done well
24th October, 2016

Amber Flash by Tauerville

Stardate 20161024:

Starts out as a medicinal and pungent ambery thing. After couple hours it settles down to generic amber+tonka and that pungency is gone.
There are much better and cheaper ambers out there. Infact, the best Amber - Ambre Sultan can be had cheaper(per ml) if one waits.

Avoid this one.
24th October, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Le Plus Beau Jour de Ma Vie by Guerlain

The opening with the mildly spicy sweet angelica is not bad, but this mix remains somewhat attenuated and dull on my skin. The drydown adds almonds with whiffs of fresh raisins.

The most interesting part of this composition follows a bit later on: The almond aroma remains, and is accompanied by a pleasant vanilla impression. Over time - over a very long time that is - the vanilla moves into the foreground and the almond aroma fades away gradually. Whilst the vanilla is the main accord, at times it is accentuated by fleeting whiffs of a gently spicy anise undertone; and a very restrained and soft white musky note is greeting me too from time to time.

The performance is splendid, with moderate sillage, excellent projection and a stupendous longevity of sixteen hours on my skin.

The first part of this autumnal creation - good for colder days and evenings - is quite nice, but certainly not particularly brilliant. The second, the vanilla-centred longest part on the other hand, is well executed. The minimally powdery, smooth and elegantly creamy vanilla-based core chord has characteristics that at times remind me of the infamous Guerlinade, but a slimmer, lighter but less complex and less textured and simplified contemporary version of it.

Whilst then first parts are a bit flat and hovering at the border between neutral and positive, and whilst this is definitely not the scent pour le plus beau jour de ma vie, the virtues of the later stages push it - just - across the line into positive territory. For the vanilla lover. 3/5.
24th October, 2016

Roma Uomo by Laura Biagiotti

Sweet citrus, almost too sweet and fruity, like a candy perfume that some might not take seriously, but I love it, especially the opening.
24th October, 2016

He Wood Ocean Wet Wood by Dsquared2

Dsquared2 He Wood Ocean Wet Wood is an extremely cedary-marine salty/frozen synth accord which smells surely more than acceptable in its mainstream (nowadays urban-metrosexual) infamous genre. Fortunately the cedary presence is never "beyond the limit" and the marine aura is quite dominant. I tend to dislike saltiness but surely I'm better "projected" (more inclined) to cope with ozonic saltiness than with an arid synth cedary "miasma". Yes, a quite mainstream accord (violet, sporty patchouli, cedar, aromatic herbs and ozonic patterns plus a finally soothed resinous-salty woodiness), something in the middle between a whichever Canali Men, a common cool Montblanc Emblem, a melony-marine Bottega Verde Uomo and a more straightforward super sharp ozonic-marine (calone-iso e super-linalool-galaxolide-dominant)
metallic new-generation release. I detect as well something vaguely floral and fruity in the air (fruity more than floral, something conjuring me vaguely the crude melon's taste). The still extremely salty dry down is finally less sharp and slightly smoother (the warmer side of the moon) with its touch of tonka bean-ambergris and several further soothing resinous elements. Not bad but something you'd hardly catch on my attractive :-) skin of southern virile italian fellow.
23rd October, 2016 (last edited: 24th October, 2016)

Emblem by Montblanc

Another fresh bold "frozen-ozonic" accord of violet, "icy spices" and cedarwood. Montblanc Emblem is spicy, bold, "frozen" and virile (a scent in the middle between Bottega Verde Uomo, He Wood Ocean Wet Wood, Bvlgari Man Extreme, the new Trussardi Uomo and a whichever more straightforward marine accord). There is a typical metallic-"frozen" aromatic undertone (grapefruit, frozen/salty patterns, sporty patchouli, aromatic greens, cardamom) rendered out "more intense" (more consistent" by hints of synthetic ambergris and cool woodiness. A final whiff of salty suede closes the round.
23rd October, 2016 (last edited: 24th October, 2016)

Opium pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

Stardate 20161023:

Sugar and spice and everything nice.
And this one has good spices (none of that chritmasy shite).
The Vanilla and Balsam give the sweetness without making it cloying.

A perfect scent for this Fall

23rd October, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

DKNY Delicious Delights Fruity Rooty by Donna Karan

Orange, blackberry - the fruit - and apple notes: sweetish, not really very sweet, with added nonspecific florals in the drydown, and overall quite generic.

The base continues the generic theme, with a musky vanilla that is rather pale

The sillage is moderate, the projection adequate and the longevity six hours.

Even for this line it is very synthetic and generic. Frolicking without substance and even that is not convincingly executed. 1.75/5.
23rd October, 2016

Nobile by Gucci

This is a nice lavender fragrance, a typical men's grooming smell. Duc de Vervins L'Extreme by Houbigant is similar, from memory. At times this one grabs me, other times it feels almost too familiar and restrained; light and polite to make a nice office fragrance, but perhaps missing a sufficient hook to keep me interested, despite the long list of notes; but definitely a safe option for a formal event to smell clean and refined.
23rd October, 2016

Piment Brûlant by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Well, this one has me stumped. This was a free sample with purchase, one I requested specifically for its notes as I have a thing for chocolate scents. All I can say is that if I’d purchased a full bottle based on the notes, I’d be feeling pretty ripped off right about now, and pretty damn angry. I don’t get any chocolate or vanilla or amber or musk. There’s a weird, sharp note, like a crushed tomato plant stem. I get a bit of the chili pepper with a faint hint of a (very old) cinnamon stick and some dusty old cloves – ones that have escaped from the packet and have been sitting in the bottom of the spice rack forever – and that’s it. And after a couple of minutes, the scent is completely gone. I’ve re-applied three times, thinking maybe it was just weak and I needed to put on a bit more, but nope. I’d love to see what this is like on someone else, but on me, it’s just, well, nothing. I can’t even smell enough in this to make a call as to whether I like it or not – there’s just nothing there. Thinking it was maybe my skin chemistry, I asked my husband to try this one, and he could barely smell anything either, so maybe it is simply a bad sample. It’s a shame, because the notes in this all look so good. Definitely try before you buy. I’m giving this a neutral – unfair to give it a thumbs down if it is a bad sample. If I get the chance to try another sample and it’s different, I’ll update my review.
23rd October, 2016