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Latest Reviews

Duc de Vervins L'Extreme by Houbigant

Too much like Lectric Shave.
30th May, 2015

Ange ou Démon by Givenchy

I may be coming onto this fragrance too late in the game. I'm having problems finding the distinction in this from many an oriental gourmand. It's been done many times before. Or is it many times since?  And I wish I could glimpse the angel and it's shadow, the demon.  I envisioned a frosty cool, achingly beautiful lily/orchid, set high above a beastly, hot counterpoint of darkness below it. But it really isn't a fragrance like that at all. The angel, from the smell of it, is another homage to Angel... sigh. Sometimes fragrances can be so deriviative. But this is more bearable than Angel. It is hard to find the wickedly sensual in vanilla, orange and herb.
But what it is... If I take away my expectations, it is a midtone, modulated, richly vanillic cool floral gourmand. I'm not attracted to this style, so I'm having problems being fair to it. Except I really don't have to. All I know is that on my skin this doesn't shine or become sultry, become a delicious fragrance, all the things others say about it. I can't feel anything more than ambivalence. I will pass, and look for one that has a little more sensuality and floral and less vanilla and orange.
30th May, 2015

Bugatti (original) by Etorre Bugatti

I acquired this quite by accident. I purchased a miscellaneous lot of fragrances in order get a bottle of Romeo Gigli that was included therein, and this Bugatti was there also. Given the automotive reference, I didn't have high expectations and paid no regard to it. Then Andrè Moreau, the first reviewer below, posted a forum note praising this and specifying with photos which version was superior. Lo and behold it turned out to be one of the orphans in my purchase.

Now having tried this I am somehow reminded of the lyrics from that song by The Band. This is

A true dead ringer
For something like you ain't never seen
Once you get it
You can't forget it

This Bugatti indeed suggests a familiarity not based on an actual past encounter but rather based on newly encountering near perfection – a confrontation with a mental ideal you didn’t even know you were harboring.

If longevity of vintage juice is any measure of the quality of its making, then this also scores off the charts. It is as lithe and nubile as the opening bars of Prokofiev’s Peter and the Wolf. It could have been bottled yesterday. The high notes sparkle. Unlike some older vintages there is not a sensation that the oakmoss has lost its full interaction with all levels of the scent and somehow separated and sunk, bottoming out the affair. Not only is there remarkable freshness but the delineation and progression of the scent through its three distinct main acts is so legible, so vivid.

This would have been a sensational blind purchase. The fact that it was in effect double-blind purchase is quite a stroke of luck.
29th May, 2015 (last edited: 30th May, 2015)

English Lavender by Yardley

An aromatic piece of classicism combining a Victorian fougere herbal-fresh initial spark with a more chyprey powdery-mossy-tonkinian dry down. A simple but heavenly accord of lavender, musk, oakmoss, soap and fava tonka. As well as outlined by Odysseusm, Yardley English Lavender (one of the first in its genre since issued far back in 1873) represents the long aromatic edge connecting scents as Geo F. Trumper Wild Fern, Houbigant Fougere Royale and Atkinsons English Lavender. Ok, faint longevity and poor sillage but the scent itself is heaven, so talky, dreamy, "ancestral", soapy, musky. If you are on a budget and an obdurate fougere nostalgic well, give this fragrance a try.
29th May, 2015

A*Men Pure Havane by Thierry Mugler

Anybody can create a good perfume, that is easy; but to be a tobacco one with the right ingredients and at the right time with the right concept and for the right purpose, and in the right way, that is not within everybody's power and is not easy.
29th May, 2015

L'Etrog Acqua by Arquiste

Etrog is the Hebrew name which is also known as cedar (Citrus medica) that for the Jewish religion is one of the plants used to celebrate Sukkot. This name originally meant any varieties of cedar, but in many languages is adopted as a new word and its meaning has narrowed to specific varieties of citrus fruit used in Jewish rites.
However with this name it does not indicate any scientifically specific variety of plant.

This perfume is a totally kitsch idea, even if, I believe that it was not in the intention of the creator!

This brand isn’t a celebration of the Mexican taste for kitsch, in which every holiday and every rite of passage from birth to death provides the opportunity to indulge, this brand is kitsch because has no sense of creativity and originality.
To be honest, the perfumes and the advertising of this brand may be considered trash, as contemporary products characterized in intention or in the outcomes from aesthetically ambiguous results are often referred trash.

In fact this is an insignificant scent, with French aesthetic pretensions and ambiguous religious and artistic meanings!
29th May, 2015

Tweety by Aquolina

Nice enough scent it seemed like the citrus and sugar were dominant . It's a Aqualina- what do you expect? Honestly it reminded me of LemonHead candy,tart on the outside but sweet lemon /caramel/ creme sugar inside. I don't recall longevity being exceptional,but I didn't wear it much,and I passed it along to my 7 year old niece to coordinate with the Bath &Bodyworks Lemon Vanilla shower gel and lotion I gave her already.
29th May, 2015

Black Orchid by Tom Ford

What is it about this fragrance? I came on this one too late, after half the world was wearing it. I never wanted to try it, it sounded so disagreeable and loud. So now that I have and discover it really smells nice on my skin, I don't know I can wear it because of its over-familiarity. Angel had that problem 20 years ago and I got tired of smelling it on everyone and everywhere. So I really hesitate to jump on the Black Orchid bandwagon.
But... this one should be totally not my style, and most fragrances like this smell awful on me, so  the miracle that this one wears beautifully makes me inclined to get it anyway.
The strangest combination of cucumber, silky flowers and dark chocolate.  Unusual, but undeniably silkenly sensuous.

It also wears like iron and lasts forever.
29th May, 2015

Vétiver Fatal by Atelier Cologne

Not a true vetiver scent.

It is more of a fresh if slightly fruity-floral take on citrusy-green sub-genre with orange blossoms, violet leaf, and a hint of woods. Unlike many of the Ateliers, Vetiver Fatal seems to have a little more development and movement, especially in the first half an hour which works a treat. Unfortunately it flattens out all too soon to a soft almost nondescript semi-citrusy skin scent, in line with the house understated style. A mildly creamy vetiver makes its appearance only in the drydown.
28th May, 2015 (last edited: 29th May, 2015)
drseid Show all reviews
United States

R by Révillon

R goes on with a fresh, light spruce and oakmoss driven green accord before quickly moving to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart the oakmoss fades to background but the spruce remains in the fore, now joined by slightly powdery lavender with faint hints of relatively sweet tonka bean and cinnamon infused aqueous amber. During the late dry-down the composition eschews its sweetness, turning to slightly powdery oakmoss with supporting cedarwood through the finish. Projection is good but longevity near dead-center average at about 8 hours on skin.

Revillon is a house with a great history of releasing winners. After sampling most of the rest of its offerings and being highly impressed it was time to see if one of its latter releases from the 90's, R, was yet another one. In truth, when I first applied R on skin I thought that it shared a lot of similarities with many fresh, aquatic type compositions from that decade. R really isn't an aquatic, but it has an ambery aspect that is reminiscent of many aquatics of its time. Something you notice immediately that you *won't* find in many fresh, aquatic type compositions is a significant oakmoss component. Unlike its best offerings like French Line, Revillon pour Homme and Eau de Revillon Eau Fraiche, the oakmoss in R is much more subtle, blending with the other composition components, but there is no mistaking its presence and it is wholly welcome. Less welcome is a tonka bean derived sweetness that permeates the key middle section of the composition's development which at times can be a hair too much. That said, the sweetness never gets too out of control and by the late dry-down it is all but absent, switching gears to instead focus on the powdery facet of oakmoss, differing from its more mossy green aspect shown earlier. The cedar in the base is used solely as a complement to the powdery oakmoss, never calling much attention to itself. At the end of the day, R didn't wow me anywhere near the other Revillon compositions I have tried (and indeed also bought), but that is not to imply it isn't good when evaluated independently. No, R won't make many "Best of Revillon" lists and certainly not mine, but it is a good easy to wear option if one wants a fresh aquatic-like composition, sans the aquatic, with a bit of well integrated oakmoss thrown in for good measure. The bottom line is the $14 per 100ml bottle R is a relatively inexpensive option that does not smell inexpensive, earning it a solid "good" 3 star out of 5 rating and a minor recommendation. If one is seeking this kind of composition, I recommend also checking out the long since discontinued and oft unfairly mocked Kerleo composed Voyageur by Jean Patou for a little bit more money on the aftermarket, but a better result.
28th May, 2015

L'Arbre de la Connaissance by Jovoy

Off putting fizzy opening smelling about Acetone, cheap tropical fruity juice (aromachemicals galore) and nail polish, really a disaster. In a really few time (a couple of minutes, not more) a sort of coconutty "fig leaves" presence jumps up in order to typify this Jovoy's creation as its main characterizing element (a sort of pina-colada effect). Over five minutes something woody, rooty, vegetal, bitter hesperidic (bergamot??) and herbal jumps finally up slightly "adjusting and setting" the general disappointing "ambience". It seems to catch in this phase a touch of grated green lemons's shells but there is unfortunately still something chemical and plastic roaming around. The note of sandalwood (the main element imo) provides a woody melancholic twist counteracting the lingering figgy-coconutty effect. In this phase the aroma is still juicy and fruity but slightly more restrained and on the way to smell weirdly tart-powdery (beyond the initial mess but not so better). I detect sour lemon, pinacolada and woods but overall is quite senseless, indefinite, hardly fenced in a specific olfactory dimension. Gradually, along the way, a sort of vaguely discernible soapiness (veined by a powder of sandalwood and patchouli) with hardly distinguishable red fruitiness, figs and "green-leaves" bitterness takes the stage without any specific place where to run. Sorry, a really disappointing "Arbre de la Connaissance" under my "respectful" nose. Not for me.
P.S: Conclusions....This is basically a sandalwood/suede accord with soapy-fruity-coconutty accents.
The dry down is drier, more delicate, subtle and close to skin (soft sandalwood, figgy/berrish soapiness and a minimal twist of suede) but the long messy initial run suggests me to insist over the negative rating.
28th May, 2015

Santal Carmin by Atelier Cologne

Transparent woods as a fragrance genre has had a spotty record at best, many missing the target. Chief among the reasons for this is the oft-clumsy use of aromachemicals to approximate the scent of cedar wood or to add a measure of dryness to the composition. The typical end result? An unpleasantly synthetic, screechy woods.

Atelier succeeded where many have failed.

In Santal Carmin, the aromatic sandalwood is well-modulated, staying on an even keel throughout, with white musk keeping it light and bright, and smoky hints of guaiac bringing an almost animalic oud-like nuance to the composition. I find this aspect very enjoyable. Fans of rich, creamy sandalwood however should look elsewhere as this rendition remains true to the house's transparent, mostly linear aesthetics.

28th May, 2015

Cédrat Enivrant by Atelier Cologne

Nice and refreshing as citrus-bergamot pairings go, with aromatic herbs faintly in the background over a softly lukewarm base. Nowhere as zesty as grapefruits, nor as tart as limes go, citron probably sits somewhere near yuzu on the citric scale.

Nothing remotely ground-breaking here, no new twist to the genre and more importantly no overtly synthetic notes that could distract from its smooth wearable persona. I suppose if it ain't broke, why fix it?
28th May, 2015

Lye by Gabriella Chieffo

Lye is a strong mineral base, solid at room temperature, extremely hygroscopic and deliquescent, often sold in the form of drops whitish said beads. Do you know soap?
Both sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide are used in making soap. Sodium hydroxide is often used to make solid soap, while potassium hydroxide is used to make liquid soap.

So, this perfume seems to be the liquid one! We are waiting (WOW) for the solid version!

Yes it is, this fragrance is an evocative scent, to be used with caution in order not to arouse too many memories! We can see an example of olfactory memory:
if you are thinking of a perfume bath, to be used after every meditation, that is Lye!

The raw materials don’t LIE, a beautiful and natural iris keeps its promises and does not LIE, even the vanilla doesn’t LIE, and even the alpha and omega never LIE.

Money well spent, I do not LIE!
28th May, 2015

Rose Privée by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Robin: “Hey man! I want to create a new perfume!”

Batman: “Don’t be bat-stupid! You are not so dark as me!”

Robin: “What? Listen man! Let's start with Batman's enterpises bankrupt... and with Batman that falls from the clouds…

Batman: “Remove that ridiculous Mexican wrestling mask from your face! I know you are a woman!”

Robin: “If you withdraw from creating fragrances with rose for years, you've also withdrawn from social life, what have you been doing all this time? Have you created any perfumes? Have you watched television? How could you be so stupid as not to throw an even occasional look at your business?”

Batman: “Ok, you are bat-right! I need a rose perfume, a bat-one!”

Robin: “WE need a rose one!”

Batman: “I need an artistic inspiration! To create a perfume with rose it is very difficult and bat-original too!”

Robin: “May you insert yourself into that badass prison that you like so much?”

Batman: “That PRISON? I'm dark, but not so bat-stupid!”

Robin: “What is it if not a place, devoid of real cells where detainees (and assumes also the food) are lowered from a large circular opening at the top right which is also the only access?”

Batman: “Ok lady Robin! Now we are in March! I will stay in prison until the beginning of April! So I will have a real bat-inspiration!”

Robin: “You can also escape when you want! Even if you aren’t Spiderman, you can manage to climb to the top!"

Batman: “YES darling! I’m dark, a big dark one!”

It was June and it was July, it was August and it was September...
In May, the romantic Robin took the May roses! In June, she added a bit of flowers gathered in GothamGrasse as June carnations and June magnolias.
In August Robin had the idea to add some August frogs.
In September she found some September leaves of violets…
Till November!
In November the character of Batman is supposed to be in that prison!
The romantic Robin finally visited him, bringing to him a bit 'of cooked food.

Batman: “Hey Robin! I had a bat-inspiration, it’s about rose and artichokes, capers and herrings too! Hey Mexican lady! Where are you going! Get me out! I am dark, you know? Hey Mariachi! I’m a big dark one!..”

Batman & Robin's perfume will be consider to be an abomination that is best forgotten. It is too romantic and for nothing dark...

Batman: “What is this? Spicy Mexican food? Hey lady! Hey Robin, COME ON!”
28th May, 2015

Cuir6 by Pekji

Cuir6 by Pekij opens with a bold, dark, bitter, dry leather-tar accord with nuances of warm-boozy amber, black pepper, thick smoke, something herbal and slightly fruity, and a slight sort of salty, mineral-metallic note I guess due to musk which I am not sure whether it’s intended or accidental – anyway it fits Cuir nicely, reminding me a bit of Spent Musket Oil by D.S. & Durga with a drop of stale sea water. The evolution on my skin features this same core aroma just becoming increasingly warm and smooth, at the same time taming down progressively. The array of inspirations seems (again...) mostly revolving around lived-in leather, rough tar wood, oily-ambery blackness, moldy soil and that kind of imagery, decidedly leaning towards nature here (so think of “dark moldy woods”). More than “raw & synthetic” or particularly avantgarde, the smell for me is just more artisanal, in the same league of AbdesSalaam Attar and that type of genuine natural perfumery. It has a cozy feel of simplicity and “organic” clarity which I appreciate a lot, blended with a bit of “American indie” inspiration (fans of Sonoma, Kerosene, Slumberhouse would probably appreciate this: more or less the same mood, just a bit more simple and natural). Also a couple of Le Labo fragrances come to mind, Cuir and Patchouli above all.

Now, while I do enjoy the fact that Cuir6 smells undoubtedly pleasant and quite solid in its simplicity, that it isn’t just about cloves and tar as many other leather scents, and that also the usual leather aromachemicals aren’t excessively prominent... to be really honest, all considered it still smells to me as much nice as a bit dull. For two main reasons – first, roughly said, there’s really nothing new here. Leather aficionados may probably find some points of interest, but for other “mild” leather fans like me, this is a bit like with incense scents – just another one. A good one for sure, but still just another. And second, most of all because more than a proper fragrance, to me Cuir6 seems basically a (really) well-executed leather-moss accord in a bottle waiting to, say, “be used” for something a bit more appealing. At the same time, not being or raw bold enough to make some sort of creative statement out of this. And thus suffering in my opinion from the same main flaw of many fragrances of this type (AbdesSaalam and many indie brands) – despite smelling nice, it can turn out to be a bit flat and lacking in some interest in its texture. The kind of stuff that “wows” you at first, but after that, you will rarely reach for it. Or well, that’s my experience. Surely a promising work, but sadly nothing really special for me. Given the challenging price, I think leather lovers still have some more fulfilling (and way cheaper) alternatives to this.

6-6,5/10
28th May, 2015

Lacoste L!VE by Lacoste

If there was ever a case of the juice bearing no resemblance to the listed notes, this is it. This is just another slight variation on Armani Code, YSL l'Homme, One Million, etc etc -- modern, bland, sweet, inoffensive....boring.

I was interested in this one because of the black liquorice, which I adore in Lolita Lempicka, but here I cannot pick it out. Nor do I get much, if any, lime.

C'mon people, you can do better than this...90% of what sits on the counters at department stores smells the same. And they keep churning it out because someone is buying this stuff. I just just can't figure out why...
28th May, 2015

Cologne pour le Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Cologne pour le Soir has a feel that reminds me of the MiN New York scents I have sampled.

I see it as a playful experiment. It's powdery.

This has started me off on a bad foot with Maison Francis Kurkdjian (MFK).
28th May, 2015

Cuir6 by Pekji

Cuir 6 is my first approach with the Omer Pekji's creations and I have to admit that this "hardly approachable" fragrance embodies those sort of sensorial experiences that use to capture my passion for the extra dark and somewhat primitive pieces of olfactory witchcraft (which, I admit, lack of refinement, subtleness, historical olfactory parametres and measured class but come powerfully out as an experience of pure ancestral beatitude). Cuir 6, as well as pointed previously out, is a rocky/bone-dry take on an ultra smoky and resinous woody/leathery accord. The note of leather is paradoxically just a co-protagonist (or better, is neither just "treated" nor just embellished but is basically "flanked" by temperamental notable raw materials) since in here the focus is also over tremendously smoky woods (ancient and arcane), authentic visceral castoreum (a touch of ambergris??), birch-tar, black pepper and mouldy black musk. I feel the rubber too, accessorial but applicative. It seems like several creations from Sonoma Scent Studio (think to Fireside Intense, for instance) meet molecules jumping out the smokiest Abdul Samad Al Qurashi's ancient oils (think to Crassna 25 years Oud). I detect also nuances from By Kilian Pure Oud, Profumum Arso and Tauer Lonestar Memories but in here we are far beyond in terms of "arabic" smokiness, impenetrable mossiness and progenitorial mouldiness (my mind thinks to dark caves, coals in a stew, ancient sacristies, dusty basements, old massive books, boots polish, fusty storages). Over an initial whiff of smoky leather I start to detect a pure central aroma of burnt woods, ash and carbon while rubber, leather and mossy labdanum (yet working) are in this phase kept out of the spotlights, being gradually absorbed by the blackest of the woodiness. Along the dry down's way leather emerges again still misty and seasoned. As well as yet outlined, this fragrance seems ideally smelling about a rocky magma emerged up from the depth of the planet earth. Stout. (Anyway, this potion is basically over the limits of my taste although something I can't refrain to appreciate).
P.S: finally flat structure and really obsessive smokiness. Hardly wearable (a soldid experience anyway).
27th May, 2015 (last edited: 29th May, 2015)

Zara Collection Man by Zara

An aromatic-minty synthetic accord based on geraniol, citronellol, a touch of simil tonka and plenty of spices. In the same league as Collistar Acqua Attiva Green and the classic Faconnable by Faconnable Zara Collection Man (recently also available in its "green bottle" summer edition) is a metallic aromachemical-centered cocktail with a minty-calonic soul and a lemony tart sparkling vibe. Geraniol provides a simil earthy-sharp forbidding classic masculinity. A bad fragrance in its complex (for a conceptually close but far better concoction stick eventually to the classic Domenico Caraceni 1913).
27th May, 2015

S.T. Dupont Intense pour Homme by S.T. Dupont

The Intense version of S.T. Dupont pour Homme opens nearly exactly as the reformulated version of Rochas Man, just a bit less gourmand and more dry, a bit more musky, more leaning towards synthetic leather and saffron. Overall a bit more cheap and plain too; but the similarity is quite evident for me. Take away a bit of Rochas Man’s vanillic coffee and replace it with a dusty accord of amber, saffron and violet. If you know Jil Sander Man from 2007, that would be the ideal factor to add Rochas Man to obtain this Dupont Intense – the leather-saffron-violet part. If you don’t know these fragrances, well then here’s Dupont Intense: a warm, dusty blend with a gourmand vein featuring lavender, smooth woods, sweet notes of vanilla and tonka (more providing just a light warm whiff of Oriental sweetness), that leather which was in fashion some years ago (not a “lived in” rusty leather accord, rather a sort of polished, velvety, synthetic vinyl-like leather smell), some “laundry musk” and a powdery accord of violet and saffron, maybe some incense too. And a ton of ambroxan too for me, as there is a strong feel of dusty amberiness embracing these few main notes.

Some traits do remind me also Body Kouros as other reviewers mentioned online, although it seems to me a really subtle similarity limited to some lavender-musk-incense nuances – subtle, but surprisingly similar indeed, especially in the very last drydown, with that exact same of “gassy” texture (by the way, the drydown smells a bit like Bulgari Black, too). Anyway: overall a smooth, mellow, quite sweet but “manly” enough Oriental fragrance for men, smoky but crisp and gentle, a bit cheap and derivative but really decent for me. It’s refined and versatile, it projects good and lasts quite long. It is really too similar to Rochas Man minus what makes Rochas Man so special for me, so it’s maybe a bit boring if you’re a fan of Rochas, but it’s nice and totally respectable for the price. The kind of stuff you often find among niche scents at triple the cost.

6,5-7/10
27th May, 2015

S.T. Dupont Homme by S.T. Dupont

A really nice surprise to say the least. I have tried some other S.T. Dupont’s fragrances and they all seemed just a tad below mediocre for me, except the barely-decent Signature and the quite decent Intense version of Homme. But this one is definitely good instead. Briefly said, it is a sort of brighter, more floral and at the same time, more smoky version of Cartier’s Declaration, less heavy exactly where I wished Declaration to be so – that is, less heavy on spices, mostly cardamom (can’t really stand that in such strong doses) and cumin. Less spicy, less (for me) overwhelmingly linear and bold – less boring too, honestly. Basically a quite better version of Declaration, for my tastes. It smells more breezy, more fresh, slightly greener but also more smooth in a dark, smoky way. I think there is some iris or violet here, as I clearly get a really pleasant touch of something soft and slightly powdery. Plus, on the drydown it pops out a really enjoyable whiff of something fruity-musky, a bit like rose but more fruity and less floral. Fresh, crisp and refined, highly wearable, classy in an “informal” and versatile way, totally solid and well made for me. It would make a really decent and totally inexpensive signature scent. Recommended!

7-7,5/10
27th May, 2015
Emoe Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Established Cognac 66 by Krigler

this NEARLY got a thumbs down or neutral, but thankfully, the drydown saved its behind!

first spray of this, and the rubbing alcohol, Isopropronal or nail varnish remover smell is almost Goppingly bad, enough that i thought i am going to need to go shower and fast!

but, lets not be too hasty. yes, ok, that initial spraying is pretty harsh, but let those vapours dry and drift off, and youre left with rather a warm, mellow ambery boozy note, that does actually make you get a bit confused, and think is this really the same frag i just sprayed?

It only takes one or two minutes for the rough start to dissapear, and youre onto a winner.
27th May, 2015

Ambre Canelle by Creed

I imagine Evita Peron drinking mate, in a room with scent traces of asado just eaten, and notes of amber and cinnamon all around the room! Wonderful!
And Banderas waiting for a tango and for some meat too!

“Evita! I love your scent of cinnamon steak!”

But honestly who cares what perfume she was using?
Below, an article with photos that tells of another fragrance dedicated to her, this time with a hint of rose!

http://www.bordighera.net/evitaperon.htm

The truth is that this perfume had been requested by one of the seven dwarves in Snow White, but she (the Snow young girl) was allergic to cinnamon.
So the Creed family kept it hidden for several centuries, until the smell has moved from a fairy tale to a legend!

If you smell this one, it seems a Tyrolean broth for dwarf miners.
27th May, 2015

The Swan Princess by The Vagabond Prince

Batman's true religion is perfumery, which never takes a holiday. But making perfumes 365 days a year means that, at some point, Batman is very busy and this would be a problem, because Batman lives to impede that any different perfumers create new fragrances! Christmas typically brings a competitor: Santa Claus! Batman hates Santa Claus because he isn’t dark, he is dressed in red and then he works for free!
On the street some children are singing! They sing for a while, and for a brief moment Batman stops to work on this new perfume, and now He believes that Christmas is something else other than a reminder that his dead parents aren't getting him any presents. Just in a single moment of happiness, our hero has a shocking realization: Santa Claus can fly!

And the Swan Princess is the very first idea He had in that sad moment!

“Tell me why, I’m so Dark and I can’t fly!”

Never create a perfume if some children are singing for the Christmas.
27th May, 2015

As Sawira by Penhaligon's

As Sawira is a beautiful oriental saffron oud rose perfume that is quite ethereal but also ornate in its presentation. Think of all the rose saffron / oud / davana fragrances you've tried in the past few years and this is that and more. It has a healthy dose of JASMINE, carnation, cardamom for a floral flourish, prominent in the first few hours, that is a celebration in a bottle. I'm thinking Bollywood dancing, Indian house music, weddings etc. I'm thinking saffron robes and burning incense sticks. As Sawira has a remarkable dry sweet wood base that I could swear is a Mysore sandalwood that you might have found 30 years ago, but not today. The dry floral oud sandalwood type base becomes more prominent until it is the central feature of a skin scent left after the burning off of the rose oud and saffron smoke is dusted on the skin. A nice combination of sandalwood, gaiac wood, patchouli, cedar, musk, and vanilla makes up the dry remnants of this hopeful scent. I am happy to see a house with the tradition of Penhaligon's launch a fragrance with this type of legendary patina. I am tempted to purchase a bottle if only to have such a treasure in my collection. As Sawira is a fierce feminine (masculine) fragrance, Or an enlightened masculine (feminine) scent. You can see I like it very much.
27th May, 2015
drseid Show all reviews
United States

Rose Privée by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Rose Privee opens with a natural smelling slightly tart hybrid citrus accord that resembles a cross between grapefruit and peach. Moving to the early heart the slightly tart citrus mix joins modestly powdery, airy lifelike rose as co-stars with a honey pollen-like lilac and subtle carnation supporting floral duo. During the late dry-down the rose turns a bit more powdery but keeps the powder still to relatively low levels as dark supporting lightly spiced hay-like coumarin in the base joins the rose remnants through the finish. Projection is excellent, as is longevity at around 12 hours on skin.

When I heard Rose Privee was composed by the pairing of super-star "old-hand" nose Betrand Duchaufour and up and coming star Stephanie Bakouche (Invasion Barbare) my interest was piqued to find out what the old and new "A List" pairing could jointly produce. On the surface, going with a rose composition appears a pretty safe bet, as it is tough to screw up and has been done hundreds of times over. That said, this is not just an average rose you will find elsewhere. Instead, the pair has added a very interesting and distinctive citrus accord that permeates the rose early and hangs around for most of the composition's development. I still am not entirely sure what is driving the tart citrus, but it comes off as a cross between grapefruit and peach. What I *can* say is I like the accord a lot, and it pairs perfectly with the staring airy rose, creating a distinctive smell that really is sublime. The dynamic duo also add in a carnation and lilac supporting floral accord to the mix in the composition's mid-section that seems to pair with the rose citrus like they were made to go together. The only slight disappointment is in the late dry-down as the rose turns a bit more powdery, joining some deep hay-like coumarin in the base that doesn't quite mesh as well as the rest, but this is only in relative terms and absolutely nothing to worry about. As to similar smelling compositions nothing comes immediately to mind, but stylistically, Duchaufour's absolutely superb Rose Cut by Ann Gerard from last year kind of fits the bill. That said, Rose Cut smelled quite different using peony and incense instead of the tart citrus used here. Rose Privee also would probably be stereotypically described as more "feminine" by most due to the rose's airy nature. At the end of the day, "masculine" and "feminine" are just words, but all I know is Rose Privee smells really, really good and would on anyone. The bottom line is the $180 per 100ml bottle Rose Privee utilizes the talents of two superb noses and delivers the goods big time, earning an "excellent" 4 star out of 5 rating and a strong recommendation to rose lovers in particular.
27th May, 2015

Triomphe by Rancé 1795

Soon at the opening it seems immediately to deal with an ideal combination of 7 de Loewe, Terre d'Hermes (I get indeed cedary woodiness, earthiness, spicy orange and pepper), Le Male (a barely peeping out soapy/balmy synthetic muskiness), Lancetti IL (wet dusty amber) and Body Kouros, such like Triomphe ideally (probably also pratically) being a wonderfully synthetic and modern "follower" of the previously quoted earlier market sharks. Actually, since the year of launch is just 2009, this Rance's juice (despite pleasant) ends finally missing the "crisma" of originality and any real spark of innovation. I ask to myself....where is the problem? I don't see the problem, the huge universe is various, a perfumer must not be morally forced to fill his mouth up with the pretentious word of "Arte", lately an empty overused word here on Basenotes (the point is: you pretend to be an artist, I declare to do commercial yet "runned" stuffs, well...you assume to be better than me but is just a vacuous supposition). Let's go back to the juice. Liquid Iso E driven frankincense, pepper, a touch of "bitter licorice-like" effect, mandarine, dusty-talky amber and unmistakable cedarwood unfold by soon their "swarming" vibe in this phase. In a few time the piquancy gets the stage becoming dominant, bitter/mild (better citric/mild) and mossy (with hints of synthetic ambergris, calone and galaxolide). I feel a lot the influence from mandarine, pepper and violet leaves which provide a sort of "bitter/red berrish" intense (almost juicy/candied) feel, overall surrounded by piquancy and sweet balmy synthetic-soapy muskiness. Well, along the dry down powdery woods (moderately sugary-talky) and musky-balmy vanilla jump definitely over the stage and the aroma turns out typically gymnic, still peppery, salty-sweet, calonic and synthetically "testosteronical", just another market attacker (really close to Le Beau Male in this phase) which is something legal and understandable, something far more acceptable (and probably honest) than all this "rhetoric of conceptual art" that is lately submerging Basenotes with its cliché of mediocrity. Madium rating under my prophane (and proudly unpretentious) nose.
26th May, 2015

Oxygen [8O] by Nu_Be

I'm pretty tired of talking about "art director", in the end we're just talking about a project entrusted to a Nose.

Knowing the art director of Frank Sinatra (Voyle Gilmore, for a period) is not interesting, because Frank was the singer, not even knowing what Pope (Giulio II) paid Raffaello is interesting, because Raffaello was the painter.
If we are talking about art, the art comes from artistic performance and curator is nothing. While marketing, yes, it is totally relevant to the curator.

Here, on Besenotes I said: “A Perfumer (as an artist) has the rule to dominate the raw materials, creating a performance that brings his work in contact with the nature, as a new and original creative act.”

So, to interpret the oxygen is therefore an artistic and original challenge, it is an intelligent proposal from an art director to an artist, as if someone say: "Frank, you'd be able to sing a sickly sweet Christmas song and make it a sexy masterpiece?"

Antoine Lie is definitely a talented Nose and in his compositional simplicity he always leaves a defined mark in his works. And he wins, again! He wins everytime they do not use his name, but his talent!

Mood Oxygen:
after a sweltering note of plastic bag, as if you are breathing your own breath, the scent opens onto a grassy horizon. Now you can breathe!
26th May, 2015
Emoe Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Apple Brandy by By Kilian

I also have a sample, and not really blown away with this.

i had great expectations for this, i love boozy scents, and anything brandy sounds like a hit, but this is a little flat.

first spray and it doesnt have the same hit like many other kilians, and is definently much less potent, but perhaps thats their intention.

i too, get a kind of cider, or apple sauce aroma, close to the skin, and perhaps a hint of brandy but not shouting brandy brandy brandy.

as the drydown continues, it turns to a more burned wood kinda smell, with a tiny touch of incense, and a little more alcoholic tinge, but honestly, it isnt what i would describe as a pleasant mix. its a bit muddled.

Sadly, i have to say Meh.
26th May, 2015
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