Grey, smoky, inky, incense.
Great Projection and long lasting.
Too dry though. Wish it had some more happy stuff in it.
Garrigue is to GIT as GIT is to Cool Water.
I received this rarity from a VERY generous friend in the form of a 5 ml decant. I spent a few days just sniffing it...trying to decide what I thought.
I was...underwhelmed. I sense I just uttered blasphemy in the world of fragrance, but I cannot be untrue to my nose.
I love the fragrance profile of Iris - the many facets of iris - cold, creamy, floral...but I could not detect any of that here. Instead, I smelled something like a really rich desert. I have nothing against desert (in fact, as I type this, the scent is convincing me to perhaps mix up some Ghirardelli brownie mix and eat it raw), but I draw the line at sweets with ambers and tonkas.
I have no doubt that for those chocolate scent lovers, this must TRULY be a heavenly scent, but I do wonder if they too experienced the mild silage and rather short-lived longevity as I did.
All in all, I am very grateful to have had opportunity to get my nose on this legend.
27th June, 2016 (last edited: 28th June, 2016)
I struggle a bit with the concept of an Encre Noire "sport". The original is so inherently dark, gloomy and unwholesome that you wonder if this should have been attempted in the first place. If the original is a solemn vampiric creature haunting an autumnal moonlight churchyard, then this is The Count himself having been kicked out into the sunshine in a smart, clean new summer suit, and told to make friends with the nice people in the park....
It's a very pleasant, light vetiver, starting with citrus, and quickly developing a distinct "green" aquatic note (what is that? Cucumber? Melon ?). I love vetiver with a passion, and I will wear this gladly, I suppose in hot weather, to the office. There are more striking, in my humble opinion accomplished, vetivers that you can wear in the summer though: Tom Ford Grey Vetiver, Sel de Vetiver, of course Guerlain Vetiver, etc. I think someone else mentioned that this scent has a tendency to come and go during the day; I also experienced that.
It's good, pleasant, elegant, a nice daytime vetiver-based, light summer scent, but not it's cold, dark and dangerous older brother. It's not inky, it's not black or dark; I think Lalique should have called this one something else.
The fragrance is nice but a straight copy of a century old cream Boroline.
And Boroline's sillage and longevity is much better than Endymion. And costs 20 times less.
This is a weak and rather synthetic offering from Victoria Secret. With no projection nor longevity. Considering it is discontinued I am sure what is being sold online is at a much higher price than what the juice is worth. Unless you are looking of an "after the gym" scent to get you through the rest of the day I would avoid. Simply not worth it.
Out of ignorance, I went for the edt/as tandem in the clear bottles that can be had for less than a sawbuck. I do believe THIS ruined it for me, regardless of iteration.
First off, I'll point to darvant's fine review with its specific mentioning of Captain's anisic character. It's pervasive. With the current version, that's all I get... cheap and synthetic smelling anisic water. Truly among the worst. I tossed those bottles.
But far too many enthusiasts hold the earlier versions in such high regard. So, when enough of the 1oz vintage bottles interestingly (peculiar-wise) began surfacing in the secondary market, I gave the vintage form a shot. No bueno. Sure, it's fuller, rounder, a little mossy, and just feels like it's a much better composition leading to a much easier idea of what many identify it to be: a barbershop aromatic fougere. Unfortunately, the anisic character is there and I just can't shake the association to the current iteration.
I'm ok with a little black licorice / anise, certainly with vanilla in things like Reglisse Noire for a gormandy lark and definitely in other masculine fougeres like Azzaro pH and Charles Jourdan un Homme. Perhaps it's simply the way it's used in Captain that puts me off. Sans the anise, Worth pH is preferable.
Thumbs up for what this is intending to accomplish which is a quick body splash and spray to set the mood and tone of fresh citrus garden for a very low amount of money. But overall, the fragrance and performance are kind of average so I give it neutral as a rating. Dad's Garden Lemon Tree is a body spray more than perfume. Lush packages this in a cheap sprayer plastic bottle that works like a cleaning product sprayer and it gives you a good drenching with one spray. The bottle leaks easily, but the leaking smells good so no problem. Fresh and tart lemon/lime wets the skin and dries quickly. Nice aroma - exactly what you would want from a lemon tree if you could put in on your skin. Supposedly the ingredients are lemon oil, lime oil, bergamot and lavender. I am sure there are at least a dozen other minor ingredients in there too. I don't smell lavender, but the citrus is definitely in there. Smells like the peel of lemons and limes crushed and mixed with freshly plucked leaf of the same tree. The fragrance lasts a few hours while staying very close to the skin. Upon spraying aroma broadcasts 4 feet off the body but this reduces to one foot after an hour and drops to a few inches after about three hours. Lasts longer if you put on more or go outside or heat up from working. This is a great outdoor work fragrance because the aromas are very natural and quite simple and radiant.
The worst of Dr Vranje's line so far. Effectively this peppery/minty/synthetic inconsistent vetiver's rendition is quite disappointing and frankly more than mediocre (surely not in line with the rest of collection from this little house). All I detect is a generally "collapsed" structure, a warm sultry ambroxan's presence, hints of vague woodiness and a touch of muskiness (frankly is out of me catching any vetiver in here). Fluidiness (or better, peppery absence of substance) is supreme, I catch cardamom, than is like detecting a fluidy synth amberish woodsy-resin (which is replaced in here by a nondescript resinous-peppery presence). Ambroxan provides a sort of chemical sultry/detergent warmth a la Armani Si or stuffs like that. Vetiver Poivre lacks finally personality, criterion, longevity/sillage, structure and even a minimal whiff of natural approach. Dry down is a pale undiscernible aromatic-hot chemical soapiness. Pass by.
Starts with a very brief citrus top note that disappears in seconds. Unless you're actually with someone at close range when you first put this on, you're the only one who'll ever smell this part.
Then it's all fresh Mediterranean herbs: sage, thyme and the like. It's like having rubbed crushed herb leaves on your skin. I like this a lot.
It's an old-fashioned, masculine "aftershave" kind of scent. It smells of outdoors, summer, southern Europe. It's clean and rugged. Here comes the wannabe poetic bit : Think of a black-haired, sun-browned Spanish farmer getting showered and shaved ready for a summer evening out with his girlfriend. Before the days of mobile phones and when everyone had a car, he'll walk along a dust track, all preened in a white shirt and black trousers, past the sun baked allotments and herb gardens, on his way to her parents' house.
I would wear this when I'm in a manly, aftershave kind of mood. In fact I'd almost say this is the perfect splash on scent (almost, because I hate splash on). It just kind of fits with the feeling.
Projection and lasting power not that strong, but that's appropriate if you consider it as an "aftershave" type thing. It actually lasts a lot longer sprayed on clothes. I'd love to try the vintage version sometime too to see if the (presumably real) oakmoss would come through.
This is the Old Spice that should be in your bathroom and not the dross that passes as Old Spice these days for almost the same price.
Ingredients are top notch. I don't know whether there is much difference between this and vintage OS for Men. From memory I don't think so.
Spices (but not spicy), amber, vanilla/tonka , aldehydes all in perfect ratio. In fact, pointers should be taken from EAOS on aldehyde use and not from No. 5.
I don't know why this is not popular here but am happy it is not as it keeps prices down.
Note: This has been discontinued (for a while now) so you will not find it in walmart. Fleabay may be a good way to go.
A verbena driven super classic Eau De Cologne. In other words, a Guerlain's Eau wannabe.
Seriously, 120 euros for this? Not even Jo Malone.
I'm afraid this is anything but Flamboyant. Instead this is a very generic transparent citrusy thing with that undefined, faux sandalwoody / mall-oriented woody base. Smells like one of the latest Yves Rochas. Anyone.
Aqua Flor Aoud reminded me of a cheaper version of Kilian's Pure Oud. A stark smoky woody thing that while avoiding smelling like straight up woodyamber it still feels like a wannabe composition that isn't able to stand out in a overly crowded territory.
Again, my main gripe with this line is the lack of imagination and creativity. Some of their fragrance are actually pretty decent but they all feel like been there done that type of stuff.
Hussar is a tarry industrial leather a-la Nostalgia and Map Of The Heart Black but sweeter than either. So, smoky leather, dark spices and woods on a sweetish / vanillic base. Nice and competently done but ultimately derivative.
Aqua Flor is a relatively new brand from Florence that offers a huge range of fragrances with an aesthetic that's not so distant from other, more popular, florentine farmacias such as Farmacia SS Annunziata or Santa Maria Novella. I approached a bunch of their fragrances knowing nothing about the brand and, overall, they all strikes as more or less successful replicas of other more popular compositions.
Zagaria is a versatile, masculine citrusy cologne that shares similarities with both Bel Ami Vetiver and Etat Libre D'Orange Je Suis Un Homme. A pretty decent woody citrus with leathery nuances. Probably one of my favorite in their whole range but given the price I don't see many reasons to pick this over the aforementioned fragrances. Tends to become a bit generic during the late dry down.
I find the top of Xeryus intriguing, but something in the base is not quite my style, too coniferous, perhaps.
It seems that I may not be a big fan of civet. This and Furyo just don't work for me and I blame the civet.
The opening blast is fresh and summery, fairly bright but is not one of these ultra-fresh citrus scents like Eau d' Orange Verte from Hermès, Monsieur Balmain or Creed's Bois de Cédrat. The citrus is mainly lemon, but there is some petitgrain in the background. A woodsy component with a slightly minty undertone accompanies the citrus in top notes.
The drydown loses this freshness gradually, and a light note odd white tea, linden and a with floral undertone dominate the later stages. The base is the most nondescript part, but even then the white musky impression in the base is quite acceptable.
I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.
A discrete summery composition, this fragrance Is very pleasant and the quality of the mainly natural ingredients is convincing. It is a bit discrete and not very loud, so a great office scent that has a few creative touches too. 3/5.
Tasted this today. I find, it sits squarely in between Lauder for Men and Baruti Melkmeisje. They all point to a Deep Green Forest and the Fir within. All are true and all shine light on the Conifer from a slightly different angle.
First rate and recommended, especially for those interested in the Meditative.
I am somewhat torn, and could change my mind, but I am giving Jimmy a neutral rating instead of thumbs up. I like the smell, and I like the development, and I consider the perfumer clever, with tricks up his sleeve, but I cannot realistically envision buying a bottle to wear it routinely.
Vetiver Moloko has a cooling, light green slightly sweet powder feeling that is relaxing and quite comforting to wear. A Moloko cocktail of sorts. Trying to compare this to my other vetiver fragrances is not helpful in understanding Moloko's appeal because it does not have the deep earthiness or rooty grassy aspects of many other great vetiver fragrances. However the green aspect is strong and clear with vetiver plus a dry cypress green note. It is this green dry quality that is strengthened by amyris and the sandalwood sweetness of amyris is further civilized by vanilla in the base. Vetiver Moloko has some sweetness, yes but this is balanced by dry woods and a piercing cold green quality. This one is not a typical vetiver scent but is an all new sensory mix for vetiver. Moloko is a very fine green relaxing perfume that has a calming narcotic deeply felt greenness. Excellent!
22nd June, 2016 (last edited: 26th June, 2016)
I thought I was sampling the 1981 version, but apparently it was Version #2 from 1992. I am a fan. I think it has some moss that adds a dimension to make it develop into something even better than the initial half hour, and I think I smell amber in the base making it sweet.
22nd June, 2016 (last edited: 23rd June, 2016)
Another scent that is better to avoid. Good thing it has been discontinued. Starts strong and green with a disappointing middle and lame dry down... It does share to my nose some DNA with the latest Dior Sauvage release... I know but at least Dior had a little better effort as far as the quality of the scent. Try before you buy.
My current version (2007), while not a bad scent, has been an expensive loo freshener. Sharp, strong and not worth the effort if the primary interest is sandalwood.
A blind buy for me, based on the name, the bottle, my good luck with Tea Rose, and curiosity about Samba and it's zillion flankers. As cheapies go, it's a good one. Well-crafted, uncomplicated, completely wearable. Like Mysticman, I was expecting something wilder (having partied with Brazilians who had no respect for my recent hip replacement when they dragged me on the floor to teach me samba!), maybe on the lines of Carlos Santana for Women. As it is, I agree with the idea that this has a bossa nova vibe, like the girl from Ipanema.
A metallic rose. I am a fan of rose fragrances, the good ones, and tried this on my skin. It projects rather a natural rose that shines through, but via a metallic prism. The metallic note is rather penetrating and may be due to the 'varnish' or solvent note mentioned.
I am afraid it did not work out for me. I much rather go with Lyric Man which is one of my favourite fragrances.
The opening blast is citrus-based, with a tart orange note with hints of lemon being modified by the chinotto impression such as to add some somber darkness that provides the top notes with an interesting twist. This is not a bright and fresh citrus, but a darker fresh-ish citrus combination.
In the drydown slightly herbal feelings are match with gently balsamic undertones, to which a ambery tone is added in the base. The balsamic side is gentle only, and the amber a bit dull. Whiffs of an earthy dustiness briefly shine through in the later phases.
The sillage is on the softer side and the projection initially good, but after the first hour or two it remains very close to my skin, and I have to dig my nose deep into it to notice the development of this scent. The total longevity is four hours.
This is a slightly unusual citrus fragrance, with the usual limits in performance that are typical for this genre. It is not without its creative touches, so I am scoring it at the lowest end of the positive range. 3/5.
Discovering this line, Fazzolari, has been a milestone for me. I have to laugh at this composition, Room 237. I am very close to liking it, and giving it a thumbs up, and it is outrageous. It smells a bit like a hospital.
My first approach with the Diane Pernet's creations is more than favorable (Shaded and Wanted are great concoctions) although In Pursuit of Magic does not fully confirm my first enthusiastic impressions. First of all this scent is something quite different than what by me expected before an accurate test on skin. I was indeed waiting to try something darkly velvety, silky-rubbery or spiritual-enigmatic while I actually catch on my skin a synthetic (yet accurately rendered) olfactory reprodution of a thick citrus grove's redolent green atmosphere. You get by soon on skin a straightforward citric turmoil, quite tart, fizzy, grassy, earthy, floral, apothecarian and bitter-sparkling. I was expecting the new Donna Karan Black Cashmere (or may be something a la Armani Prive' Bois d'Encens) while I enjoy on my skin the new Frapin Paradis Perdu (in this stage several Xerjoff a la Modoc, or Atelier Cologne a la Bois Blonde/Trefle Pur, may be Bond N.9 a la Little Italy or Byredo a la Mr. Marvelous jump vaguely on mind as well in their opening top phases for several of their characteristics). The note of mandarine is heady as supported immediately by bitter grass, woods, petitgrain, bergamot, orange flower and tangerine, green leaves, bitter green citrus shells and by a vague cedary vibe. Probably vetiver is included in the blend together with cedarwood or rosewood. Initially super-medicinal this juice smells almost realistic (at second impact, if you don't dig too much down the floor being overly exigent). Inhaling this scent it seems you are lost in to an ideally prehistoric silvan universe rich of secular immense appalling trees, bizarre creatures, sedimented omnipresent dark-green moss, brilliant streams and conical sun rays perforating the air through the (disguising the sky) huge trees as being cutting oceanic abyssess. Fizziness (green/leafy citric fizziness) is reigning throughout while I don't get a significant evolution on skin but just a general process of restraintment towards a darker (still hesperidic) pungent woodiness (seemingly rosewood) slightly spicy-piquant, tonkinian and rooty. I detect hints of fir resins, untamed wild weeds (yes freshly cut marjuana-conjuring) and may be galbanum. This stage is slight smoky; smokiness seems growing up gradually but without overwhelming the citric-woody elements or compromising the grassiness. This final phase is too "wild" for my full pleasure, probably overly "enviromental", bitter-herbal and lacking a real level of sophisticated elegance, subtle complexity or originality. All in all I'm not hoocked by this type of scents and Diane Pernet In Pursuit of Magic is nothing extraordinary or enlightening my senses. Usually this kind of juices finally unfold a vanillic or artificially leathery long tail but gratefully it does not happen in this case. Finally (over the 3th/4th hour of development) the juice becomes even darker and apparently fruity-boise with hints of something ostensibly conjuring a blackberries' presence. A pleasant darkly silvan (slightly resinous) citric aroma and nothing more under my severely injured nose.
21st June, 2016 (last edited: 23rd June, 2016)