Fragrance Reviews from August 2009

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    JDE's avatar
    JDE
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Jazz by Yves Saint Laurent

    I absolutely loved this at first, but after a while I began to get the salty note mixed with some kind of balsam the whole time... As Trebor noted: it smells like a fish and chips wrapper. I couldn't get this out of my head, and I began to hate the fragrance. I gave my bottle to a friend and it absolutely doesn't smell like salt and vinegar on him. Instead, I got cool woods, resinous balsams and a nice variety of spiced flowers. The nutmeg is also very well done in this.

    It's a nice and restrained floral woody scent, quite French smelling and on the whole, very classy. I can't bear down too heavy with the marks on this, as I really like it on paper and others and I think it's very well put together, I just can't pull it off on myself. Works much better on cooler days/evenings. I like the bottle and the atomiser is very good, if a little cheap looking (black plastic on clear and frosted glass? Must try harder, YSL. It's not 1983 anymore). Longevity is great at around 10 hours, and it has a nice understated projection which stays close, but is easy to notice by companions. Good for a night out for a meal or theatre etc.

    08 August, 2009

    JDE's avatar
    JDE
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Royal English Leather by Creed

    My personal favourite masculine leather (I don't count Aramis as I believe it to be more than a leather fragrance). The mandarin in the opening is beautiful on it's own. Possibly one of the few times i've got a fruit in a scent that actually smells like the real thing. It isn't a case of "that smells *like* a mandarin" but more like "that smell *is* a mandarin." At first I wasn't sure how the fruit would sit atop a leather because I thought it may smell a bit sweaty or off, but it lends the scent a deliciously mouthwateringly refreshing and juicy angle. Plus, it actually lasts on my skin, which is normally not great with citrus - I can still smell the mandarin note after 6 or so hours.
    The rest of the frag is an ever so slightly powdery amber leather that isn't overly sweet and is ever so slightly salty. Very confident and luxurious, but comforting at the same time. I probably wouldn't wear this in the heat of summer, but as an evening or formal scent, it works very well. It is not a "dominatrix" leather or a dark and brooding leather, but a proper sweet, strong, warm, pleasing and ultimately highly wearable old fashioned masculine fragrance, without anything cloying. I had a couple of samples of this before I decided I was going to buy a bottle of this, and in the end I managed to snag a nearly full bottle from BN. I was slightly worried I wouldn't know when I would wear it, but it was simply too beautiful to not purchase it in the end.

    Longevity and projection are amazing - 18+ hours on me and it can be smelled (nicely) from afar. It is on the strong side, so caution should be used when spritzing. For this reason, I don't like Creed atomisers a whole lot as I feel their jets are too much for all but their aqueous frags, but the bottle is a real beauty. If you want a high quality formal leather which is neither overly sweet, stuffy nor overbearing, i'm yet to try a better one. I need more thumbs.

    08 August, 2009

    JDE's avatar
    JDE
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Spanish Leather by Truefitt & Hill

    Very soapy, spicy and sweet, possibly a bit on the musky side to be an "everyday" cologne for me. Seems to have an awful lot going on for the entire duration of the fragrance, but with the soapy element getting stronger and muskier as it progresses.
    Overall it's not bad, but it just feels a little cluttered. It's as if they ran out of ideas so decided to chuck every spice they had in, but in tiny individual quantities. The end result is both slightly confusing and disappointingly underpowered, treading the fine line between "not enough" and "too much." It creates a nicely refined vibe, but I have no idea when I would want to wear this - too refined for daytime, too casual and ever so slightly "cheap" smelling for formal or eveningwear. It would make a really nice scent for a bath soap (which I believe T&H make), or a scented candle (which they don't), but as a cologne, it's not quite where it aims to be.

    Longevity is around 4-6 hours on me, but it projects very well, as I find most leathers do. Good, but there's a lot more out there which does the job in a nicer way. The 3 stars I gave it is closer to how I feel about it than the neutral rating, but I can't justify giving it a thumbs up.

    08 August, 2009

    JDE's avatar
    JDE
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    YSL pour Homme Haute Concentration by Yves Saint Laurent

    Far too strong, far too sweaty and far too bitter. My tester was on the old side, so bear that in mind, but there's nothing classy about this. It's almost vulgar. I prefer the original but even then... An odd mixture of real lemon, cleaning products, sweat and a faint tinge of urine. Obviously that's a bit a of an exaggeration, but I couldn't get on with this. I actually felt self concious wearing it. Initially I was on the fence, as it can be very cloying at times, but when mixed with natural body heat it smells very natural and realistic - a proper lemon aroma. It's fairly obvious that they have used good ingrediants, I just struggled to "get it" and didn't like the way a single wearing could produce varying results. In a way, I respect the way a frag should be slightly different each time, but this was almost unreliable in it's unpredictability.

    Nice bottle, nice atomiser, good longevity at 8+ hours, nuclear projection. All good in the hood.... I just hate the smell 90% of the time. Sorry!

    08 August, 2009

    pinkfizzy's avatar
    pinkfizzy
    Canada Canada

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    L'Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

    Very nice! Ginger-citrus opening, a little vetiver and some violet-leaf of course, then a oriental amber drydown. My roommate used to wear this, and strangely enough, it was what got me interested in exploring mass-market scents. Just a really enjoyable smell, nothing particularly innovative, but I really like it, and I would consider buying it for myself. I have smelled Cool Water, but it although it didnt really stick in my memory, it was not much like LHomme, to me at least. Id recommend it for a guy of any age who doesnt care much about fragrance but wants to smell nice to people around him. It would make a good first fragrance for a young guy, but it would work for any age. Although older (retiree-age) guys usually have their mind made up about what they wear, and stick to it.

    08 August, 2009

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    pinkfizzy
    Canada Canada

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    Kenzo Amour by Kenzo

    Kenzo Amour is indeed very comforting. Im not usually a fan of gourmands, but the vanilla in this is subtle and the sweetness is balanced by the incense and woods. Ive had quite a few compliments on this, and I like to put some on before I go to bed, especially in the winter.

    I have also layered it with Bulgari Black, to accentuate the vanilla-amber drydown of Black, and they were lovely together.

    08 August, 2009

    Esanena's avatar
    Esanena


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    Blue Grass by Elizabeth Arden

    My guesses as to the notes were- jasmine, gardenia, tuberose and powder. It is quite sweet and powdery and smells like my 80+ year old granny's White Shoulders. I like it on her, but could never pull it off. It actually has a pleasant drydown, clean skin. Still, its quite old fashioned and the first sniff may knock your socks off.

    08 August, 2009

    Esanena's avatar
    Esanena


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    Sunflowers by Elizabeth Arden

    I once loved it. Not it smells cheap, plastic and sickening.

    08 August, 2009

    Esanena's avatar
    Esanena


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    Provocative Woman by Elizabeth Arden

    I was surprised by this one, I was expecting hard and its got fluff. Pretty with a sensual base. It isnt exquisite, but it is nice.

    08 August, 2009

    Esanena's avatar
    Esanena


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    Pretty by Elizabeth Arden

    It smells boring and like a million other pink floral scents. Pleasant and harmless, but boring.

    08 August, 2009

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    Esanena


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    Versace Versense by Versace

    Very citrusy opening, I smell coriander. Then it dries down to a citrus MUSK. The drydown is masculine, I smell nothing feminine about it. I would love it on a man, on myself I'd smell SKANKY.

    08 August, 2009

    hcr's avatar
    hcr
    United States United States

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    Aqua pour Homme by Bulgari

    Reading through the reviews, first day of wearing this. I notice maybe only 2 women commented on this, and I don't believe I saw the term "sexy" applied by anyone to this. It just isn't. I was expecting more citrus and freshness, but its just kinda like people have been saying. Salty, "mossy", earthy, kinda dry. Will not offend anyone, could spray alot and be fine, but its missing something. Its just not fresh, I like the scent, but again not sure if its something I want on my body. I can't see this getting any compliments from anyone, nor could I imagine any women wanting to get closer for a whiff of this. But it won't turn anyone off either. This would be a good "car" scent, to just leave in the car when you just need a shot of something light. But all this doesn't surprise me that it is quite popular here as an aquatic, because it isn't as fresh or citrus"y as like AdG or Issey or something very common. Doesn't have a "hook" for me, but might also be a good outdoor cologne too, you can picture sea water, rocks. Would not wear this on a date though...

    08 August, 2009

    Lamp's avatar
    Lamp
    Australia Australia

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    The Dreamer by Versace

    I do not understand why so many people gave this positive reviews. I did not like this fragrance at all. The opening is horrible, way too strong and cloying. The dry down was nothing special. I tried The Dreamer on three separate occasions, but every time I still found it vulgar.

    In my opinion JPG Le Male does this style of fragrance way better.

    08 August, 2009

    Lamp's avatar
    Lamp
    Australia Australia

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    Boss in Motion by Hugo Boss

    I really like this scent!
    The orange candy opening is very unique and memorable. Yes it does smell synthetic, but there is synthetic good and synthetic bad…this is synthetic good.
    Contrary to other reviews I find this has outstanding longevity (12+ hours), but maybe that has more to do with how it mixes with my skin.
    Not to some peoples tastes so definitely try before buy.
    Big thumbs up from me!

    08 August, 2009 (Last Edited: 30th January, 2010)

    Lamp's avatar
    Lamp
    Australia Australia

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    Polo Blue by Ralph Lauren

    This is not my favourite cologne, nonetheless, I can say with out a doubt that I have never received as many compliments with any other cologne as I have with Polo Blue.
    I received it as a gift and thought it smelled nice (it didn’t blow my mind), but for some reason whenever I wore it chicks seemed to dig it.
    So now I’ve grown to love it… can’t argue with results!

    08 August, 2009

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    Buzzlepuff
    United States United States

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    Patchouli Patch by L'Artisan Parfumeur



    Bertrand Duchaufour applies the masters touch to this patchouli standout fragrance by adding soft but cool complimentary notes all around the patchouli to tame the beast. The result is a light gentle patchouli blend that exposes the feminine, earthy side of this normally aggressive fragrance for a peaceful patchouli blend that works nicely to satisfy the "inner hippie" for either gender.

    The scent begins with a lightly sweet peachy floral osmanthus which opens the patchouli central note. Using osmanthus to tone down the patchouli with its subtle sweetness is a very original blending idea that I've not seen with patchouli before - Brilliant idea! The back side of this patchouli story is woven with cool tones of translucent white musk and a complimentary anise oil layer. The cool mint of patchouli is complimented and enhanced by this equally cool base of white musk and anise for a nice woody but starkly cold closing chord. Overall Patchouli Patch is a very simple story of a very few notes that work so well together. The peach floral osmanthus opens the patchouli scent, while the white musk and anise softly cools and closes it down. A perfectly put together patchouli story!

    I keep giving thumbs up to patchouli blends and it appears I might rubber stamp approval for every patch fragrance around, but not true! I am routinely turned off by the over used patchouli standard formula that tames patchouli oil with vanilla and/or amber sweetness then calls it done. I am also really turned off by pure patchouli oil strength and blends that emphasize the masculine nature of patchouli when it is plenty too strong to begin with. My inner child craves a great patchouli scent and I can not ignore any original and really good patchouli creation - such as this L' Artisan beauty. Extra stars for a unique use of complimentary notes and the creation of a perfect simplicity- Patchouli Patch -far out!

    09 August, 2009 (Last Edited: 21st August, 2009)

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    Buzzlepuff
    United States United States

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    Patchouli Empire by CB I Hate Perfume

    CB Pathcouli Empire smells as a proper oriental wood might smell as it transitions to the British Empire from the wilds of Indonesia - tamed and civilized. This oil is a fine blend of patchouli's mixed with rich woods and a bit of pepper. Might the wood be rosewood? or mahogoney?, or a blend of woods + patchouli - whatever the combination of dark woods the result is a nicely finished, oil rubbed wood of the Empire. I prefer this version of finished patchouli to the vanilla / amber patchoulis that are so common now. A thumbs up for a good proper patchouli!

    09 August, 2009

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    JaimeB
    United States United States

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    Jean-Louis Scherrer by Jean-Louis Scherrer

    A classic chypre from the 1980's, with prominent moss notes in the base. The "woody notes" definitely include patchouli, and the mandarin stands in for bergamot. The floral bouquet in the middle is classic and very tastefully done, so the florals don't tip the balance against the base notes. Marketed to women, but the drydown is fine on a man, since all the florals in this are now commonly found in "masculine" scents and fall well short of screeching levels.

    09 August, 2009

    Words's avatar
    Words
    United States United States

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    Mat; Orange by Masakï Matsushïma

    This is pretty simple... Mat Orange is an Orange scent through and through. It doesnt really try to hide that fact, just a straight-forward Orange with moderate-to-weak lasting power. That's why I like to use it as a layering perfume, otherwise you're looking at more of a body spray. Certainly a great smell if you like the smell of sweet Oranges, just not much character for $50 USD a pop.

    09 August, 2009 (Last Edited: 09 March, 2010)

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    zztopp
    United States United States

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    Monsieur de Givenchy by Givenchy

    Notes:
    Top: Lemon, lime, Bergamot, Petitgrain
    Middle: Clary Sage, orange, lavender, basil
    Base: Musk, cedar, civet

    The bottle lists the notes as Bergamot, lemon, lavender, verbena, oakmoss, sandalwood but the Osmoz pyramid is the one which seems more accurate. Monsieur de Givenchy (MdG) is a citrus-aromatic/chypre from Givenchy's mythical line: classics from the Givenchy vault, and arguably the high point of Givenchy parfums. MdM is a conventional fragrance; its structure exhibits fine balance, and its made of good materials. The lemon/lime top notes are sharp but extremely fleeting...one may need to spray 3-4 times in quick succession to let the nostrils grasp 'em. Almost immediately the central powdery, musky, lavender accord takes hold with a herbal spicy-sweet basil note anchoring the other end. As the fragrance progresses I detect a lite, doughy, bread like note (is it the petitgrain?) and a sweetish, slightly animalic note (civet) and woods in the base. The musky powdery lavender heart is never overbearing, and the whole shebang lasts for a decent 5-6 hours.

    At times, MdM seems like a lighter version of Signoricci (they both share a lime top and a lavender-woody heart). Sure it can boss around the anemic newer citrus chemicals of today, but when compared to its illustrious compatriots from 50 years ago it lacks the creativity of Eau Sauvage and the grand chypre finish of Chanel pour monsieur. MdM is a fine fragrance, but one can't help feel its the Andy Roddick of the 1960s citrus classics.

    Rating: 8.25/10.0

    09 August, 2009

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    scentsitivity
    United States United States

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    L'Ombre dans L'Eau by Diptyque

    Diptyque certainly makes some unconventional, push-the-envelope type scents. This is another one. Here we have a very sharp and harsh green opening. Eventually a dark rose emerges, but the harsh green doesn’t go away. I like the rose somewhat, but the green ruins it for me.

    09 August, 2009

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    derekp
    Canada Canada

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    Suivez-Moi by Fragonard

    As someone noted below it is similar to Le Male, but possibly more similar to the Body Shop Javari in that it is not as smooth or powdery as the former. In it's favour, it's also not as synthetic. Not for me, but if you wished Le Male tipped more towards lavender than vanilla in it's base, you may enjoy this.

    09 August, 2009

    Tony T's avatar
    Tony T
    United States United States

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    Aqua di Roma Uomo by Laura Biagiotti

    i had a sample a few years back and i remember it being very floral. a very hard to find scent. nice floral. it was simple but i liked it.

    09 August, 2009

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    bbBD
    United States United States

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    Silver Bond / Andy Warhol Silver Factory by Bond No. 9

    AW Silver Factory is by far the most unique Bond No.9 fragrance. Bond No. 9 is a good house but suffers - like Montale - from being overly ambitious and releasing too many similar fragrances too soon after inception. The result is countless citrus and floral fragrances with only slight variation between them. I first sampled AWSF when it was first released and did not like it at all - too strong, too smoky. However that was at a time when I wasn't into strong, bold fragrances and I had yet to understand or appreciate the use of incense in perfumery. Quite simply, this wasn't a fragrance for a relative newbie - perhaps not even for an amateur collector. I put my samples away, expecting to come back to them someday.

    Fast forward to now. I've been exploring lots of incense fragrances and I have an appreciation for bold scents. Breaking out and sampling Silver Factory was like sampling an entirely new fragrance for the first time. AWSF begins with a terric woody incense accord that is very strong and so resinous it borders on being sour. Over the next hour the fragrance smooths out, with a amber appearing to cut the resin and sharpness of the incense. The amber becomes more and more prominent, and borders on being a little bit too sweet for my tastes. The incense never fully disappears but it becomes far less noticeable as the base emerges. Discrete florals fill out the base and a touch of violet becomes distinct, giving more sweetness to the composition. From here the woody/amber/floral base persists for many hours.

    Sillage is loud, longevity superb and the structure is solid. The only problem with Silver Factory is that it shows how well Bond can do fragrances, making some of their less impressive offerings all the more regrettable.

    This is a Bond I hope to have on the shelf someday. Excellent.

    09 August, 2009

    timaru's avatar
    timaru
    Germany Germany

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    Around Midnight by Mark Buxton

    This was one of my first niche samlpe purchases and I still love it.
    Bearing a lot of notes in commen with Buxtons creation for Biehls Parfumkunstwerke (camomile, styrax, patchouli, ciste) which is clearly present in form of heavy resemblances of the two one can assume that Buxton had an inspiration but, for some reason, couldnt get it right for Biehl so he decided to create a more daring version under his own name.
    The result is IMO mb03 stripped down of its unnecessary softness and with enhanced edges.
    The opening starts off very fresh, even cold with the pepper being very prominent before the Jasmin escorts the change into the to my nose oriental smelling, sensual drydown.
    My first impression (when I smelled it the first time) was the drydown smells of Myrrh but I think thats because i havent got much experience with Styrax as a note and couldnt imagine Patchouli being used in such a beautiful way.
    Highly recommended!

    09 August, 2009

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    glitteralex
    United States United States

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    Fleurs de Bulgarie (new) by Creed

    1. CREED Fleurs de Bulgarie Millesime (w) Bergamot, Bulgarian Rose, Ambergris, and Musk. This version was introduced in 1980 and is still in production and readily available. This is a 2-stage perfume, not quite linear. First comes the rose, definitely Bulgarian or Otto. Shortly thereafter arrives the most long-lasting and pungent drydown of Ambergris (aged sperm whale puke from eating squid). I never found the purported top note of Bergamot, although maybe it simply serves here, in very small amounts, to provide “lift” for the rose. Creed is one of the only perfumers in the world to still have access to the real ambergris, and it is really is amazing stuff. I disagree with Turin on this one; I don’t find FdB a dead rose at all. Constant, maybe, but not dead. I like to wear this alone, but it also layers well with other scents. FdB is a very comforting perfume that wears all day, even in my dry climate. Excellent sillage. $$

    09 August, 2009

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    glitteralex
    United States United States

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    Lancetti Madame by Lancetti

    This is a reformulation of the first women’s fragrance from the Italian Haute Couture designer Pino Lancetti, launched in 1976 and simply called Lancetti. The original scent was dominated by Labdanum, an anise scented gum resin. MADAME LANCETTI is a polite and lovely rose based reformulation meant to appeal to the floral-fruity preferences of the 1990s. It was not enormously popular in the US, and thus was discontinued here and later worldwide. It is still occasionally available online for moderate prices.


    Top Notes: Gardenia, Lily, Rose, Ylang-Ylang, & Freesia

    Heart Notes: Peach, Mirabelle (plum), Rose, & Jasmine

    Base Notes: Patchouli, Oak Moss, Iris, & Tonka


    What I find so enchanting about this scent is the plastic rosy scent that arises after a light lemon balm (mint) sensation in the top. The middle presents some green notes that remind one of an idealized summer garden after a rainshower. The base is very discreet, and serves mainly to uphold the floral-fruity notes. Altogether, Madame seems fairly synthetic to me, but, nonetheless, delightful and yummy. It is everything a lighthearted Rose should be. Perfect for an early summer wedding, but go lightly as it is quite strong even in the EdT. It bears some similarity to l’eau by Laura Ashley and Trueste by Tiffany, both of 1995. I can understand why others may not find this scent impressive, but its sillage and pleasant character make it a warm weather favorite for me.

    09 August, 2009

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    glitteralex
    United States United States

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    L'Eau by Laura by Laura Ashley




    LAURA ASHLEY l’eau EdT (w) Rare & Discontinued.

    This symphonic, aromatic floral (created in 1994; launched in ’95 under the supervision of Paul Sebastian) is a perfume I love to wear in the spring. The sprightly top notes of lemon and petitgrain are a lovely introduction to a heart dominated by lavender and carnation. The base is very subtle, and serves mainly to fix the top and base notes. As the top notes on this perfume are truly a part of the beauty, it is imperative to locate a bottle that has been stored properly. Top notes are often delicate and subject to deterioration more than the sturdy resins and musks found in the bases of perfumes.

    Ingredients for l’eau include:

    Top Notes of: Lemon, Mandarin, Petitgrain, & Rosemary

    Middle Notes of: Jasmine, Lavender, Lily of the Valley, Carnation

    Base Notes of: Patchouli, Sandal, Moss, Tonka


    Laura Ashley’s older perfumes- No.1 No. 2, l’eau. Emma, & Dilys-have a cult following, and with good reason. Probably some of the prettiest perfumes ever made, they are still available online from time to time. Online auctions are mobbed by bidders and there is nary a bargain to be seen. (Martecci’s Fine Fragrances has actually re-synthesized some of them through molecular analysis and reconstruction.) These first perfumes have no connection to the current Ashley releases; Ashley’s husband Bernard personally oversaw their creations. Sadly, subsequent issues with distributor Alfin (until ’93), quality control, shop closures, majority Malaysian ownership, and ties to tele-evangelist Pat Robertson have sullied the reputation of LA and brought the quality of its products to outlet-store levels.

    09 August, 2009

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    glitteralex
    United States United States

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    Or Noir by Pascal Morabito


    Although this scent is considered a sharp floral, this and other aldehydic heavy hitters such as Chanel No. 5 and Rive Gauche by Yves Saint Laurent should come with a warning label: “ Caution! This is a superb scent, if you can survive the first 15 minutes”

    With a sharp, soapy, and aldehydic top dominated by iris, the floral heart is obscured for the first 10-15 minutes. I have to say I sense more notes than the three mentioned above. There is definitely an herbaceous resin note as well-maybe the bergamot peeking through? I would not have guessed there was any cassis at all. Eventually, the top simmers down and the heart emerges rather discreetly. The aldehydes remain, but take a back seat to the rich floral accord. They eventually fade and leave the wearer with the impression of sweet tobacco-very compelling.

    This is a strict, mature scent, for a formal professional setting or an evening out. I can’t see it on anyone under 40. The composition is very tight and precise. Not to be overapplied in public.

    09 August, 2009

    glitteralex's avatar
    glitteralex
    United States United States

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    Madigral by Molinard

    This is a lovely men’s scent-classic, natural feeling, longwearing, and compelling. It has the simplicity characteristic of Molinard fragrances. Classified as a mossy, woody scent, it boasts notes of Clary Sage, Tarragon, Lavender, Juniper, & Patchouli. The earthy sweetness, ease, and comfort of this scent makes it wearable by both men and women. It seems the patchouli is tempered by tonka or vanilla, although not stated in the official notes. It is currently available in eau de toilette strength.

    b.n. Madrigal is a vintage 1935 scent from the French Perfume House of Molinard. In 1993 Madrigal underwent a reformulation and was relaunched under the umbrella of the Les Masculins Collection, which includes the scents Madrigal, Vaniteck, and Rafale. Molinard, one of the three famous –ard houses of Grasse-Molinard, Fragonard, and Galimard, is a provider of fragrance essences and bases to other major fragrance houses. They maintain an open studio and perfume museum in Grasse, which can be visited by the public.

    09 August, 2009

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