Fragrance Reviews from August 2009

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    Tony T's avatar

    United States United States

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    Boss Pure by Hugo Boss

    i agree with most posts. good smell,nothing new, a bit boring and overpriced at it's debut. now very cheap on the web and should be discontinued in a few years. decent aquatic but missing a few pieces. longevity is also an issue. i don't hate it though.

    13th August, 2009

    L'Aventurier's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Gendarme by Gendarme

    A beautifully clean and musky, jasmine-based scent that somehow doesn't smell floral or feminine - in fact, it's perfectly unisex. Also crisp and slightly citrusy, Gendarme is equally soapy and airy. Not much to say that hasn't already been said here, but I absolutely must state that this lasts a very long time - easily 24 hours on clothes and at least 8 hours on skin. The beauty of this is that most of the time you can't smell it, because for some reason the nose gets habituated to the smell rather fast. Thus, many will think it's gone in an hour - it only seems that way. Just wait a bit and you'll notice that it gives off gentle whiffs throughout the day. Furthermore, you can ask others to smell you, or give your day-old shirt a sniff the next day - you'll notice it's still there. And so, it never bothers or distracts from your day, while emitting a cool, calm and clean aura.

    Boring? Maybe, but Gendarme is also completely inoffensive (it's actually known to be hypo allergenic even for the most allergic noses) while being incredibly enjoyable at the same time.

    9.25/10

    13th August, 2009

    L'Aventurier's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Rêve en Cuir by Indult

    I'm not a big fan of leather fragrances, and Reve en Cuir is no exception to the rule. However it is an amazing fragrance for what it is. Reve en Cuir doesn't have that synthetic factory smell of a new leather jacket - it smells like real leather - slightly animalic leather with hints of vanilla sweetness. It seriously smells like they took an old and withered, perhaps over-worn and sweat-drenched leather belt, smeared a touch of vanilla on it, and then baked the whole thing in an oven.
    There's a beautiful balance between the extremes of being slightly off-putting and comforting. In the same vein, Reve en Cuir is straddling perfectly between smelling like an old-school leather fragrance (ie. Bel Ami) and something more modern.

    Although I love almost all of Francis Kurkdjian's work and I admire Reve en Cuir's ingredients and construction, it's just not for me. Maybe it's just too realistic. While I can't see myself wearing Reve en Cuir, I also can't deny the quality and blending here. I'm sure that many leather lovers will love it, and so I'll give it an unbiased rating.

    9.5/10

    13th August, 2009 (Last Edited: 18th November, 2009)

    bbBD's avatar

    United States United States

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    Câline by Jean Patou

    When Caline was introduced in 1964 it was marketed as a 'perfume for young women'. One can imagine that the heaviness and sophistication of Patou's legends like Joy and 1000 were a bit too much for teenage girls, even back in the 60s. Knowing the thinking behind the development and marketing of Caline provides an unintended commentary on the state of perfumery in 2009. Specifically, by today's standards Caline is a wonderfully fresh and enjoyable green fragrance, far more sophisticated, subtle and layered then the fragrance intended for adults today. The fragrances intended for 'young women' today are typically the dreaded bug-juice-sweet fruity florals promoted by the 'celebutard' of the month.

    Caline feels a lot like a chypre and I wouldn't be surprised if the formal bergamot/oakmoss structure is lurking underneath. Unlike a typical chypre Caline adds a huge blast of aldehydes - more than in any other chypre fragrance I've experienced. The aldehydes are accompanied by light citrus and crisp green notes. As the initial burst of aldehydes settles down, leaving a bouquet of green notes, jasmine and other subtle white florals. Caline straddles the line perfectly between green-heavy scents that are a bit too bitter and chypres that feature lots of mossy/woody notes. There is definitely a green bitterness to Caline, but it is balanced well by the aldehydes and a subtle touch of rose (and iris, I suspect). At this point one would expect a movement towards a simple oakmoss base but you would be wrong - the green/floral heart gives way to a gorgeous carnation/labdanum accord that starts out with carnation's clove-like spiciness and slowly melds into a smooth labdanum base. The labdanum, with a hint of sandalwood, lingers for a good 2-3 hours before fading out.

    Wow! To think that such a crisply and expertly constructed perfume should be intended for young women illustrates the artistry and pride of creation used by the perfume industry of yesteryear vs. the mindless, cheap drivel of today. I have to laugh when people complain that a fragrance "feels dated." I interpret this statement as saying "quality, rich compositions are too much to process." Generations of fragrance collectors think that bland, average compositions are acceptable and can't wrap their head around vintage quality. It's a shame that treasures like Caline are essentially lost, with the occasional bottle popping up now and then online.

    Patou Caline is a treasure.

    Notes (per theperfumedcourt.com): green citrus, aldehydes, spices, May rose, jasmine, orris, ylang ylang, cyclamen, cedarwood, santal, labdanum, moss and musk.

    13th August, 2009

    glitteralex's avatar

    United States United States

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    Damask Rose by Crabtree & Evelyn

    This is a lovely, dusty rose. Reminds me of old, dried roses in a library of musty books. I have the room spray, which is nice on a winter evening.

    13th August, 2009

    brrrry's avatar

    United States United States

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    L'Eau D'Issey pour Homme Lumières D'Issey by Issey Miyake

    Picked this up on eBay on the cheap. I'll be the first one to bash an aquatic. But because of the sometimes unbearable climate here in Florida, aquatics have become an evil necessity. However, there are only a select few that fit the bill. And most of the Isseys are in that class. I think the original gets beat up pretty bad here on BN. This is a slight spin on the original. Unless you compare them side by side it's hard to tell an acute difference. It's got a little more citrus, mainly grapefruit in the opening. Then mostly the same with a little less woods and hardly any vetiver, which I get a lot of in the drydown in the original. I do find this one to be mostly linear and also a little stronger than the original. This is kind of weird since it's supposed to be a "summer version" of an already "summer" frag. Not a bad scent but not worth buying if you own any of the other Isseys, with the exception of L'Eaue Bleue.

    13th August, 2009

    Nizzle's avatar

    United States United States

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    The One for Men by Dolce & Gabbana

    My co-worker practically bathes in this stuff. I had to tell him the truth: it reminds me of a brew of Captain Morgan's spiced rum and toilet bowl cleaner. My entire workplace had an intervention and told him that the scent is incredibly offensive/ terrible.

    13th August, 2009

    Ronin's avatar

    United States United States

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    Gucci pour Homme by Gucci

    Weak, woody scent. It's even light when applied on clothing. Even if it lasted and had strong sillage, I still wouldn't care for it.

    13th August, 2009 (Last Edited: 12th April, 2010)

    archibald's avatar

    United States United States

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    Green Irish Tweed by Creed

    Ok, you guys have convinced me. GIT smells like Cool Water. GIT has convinced me that Cool Water smells way better when it's made with Creeds materials budget.

    13th August, 2009

    Misiek's avatar

    Poland Poland

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    Le Mâle by Jean Paul Gaultier

    Le Male my love! Seriously addictive scent one of my favourites, it really is great!

    13th August, 2009

    sjohnjay's avatar

    United States United States

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    Clean Simply Soap by Clean

    Simply boring, but not bad. This smells much like Lever 2000. 5 sprays will amount to roughly 8 hrs of 'clean' smelling. Androgynous.

    13th August, 2009

    shamu1's avatar

    United States United States

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    Lilac Vegetal by Pinaud


    "This smells like corned beef and cabbage boiled in urine"

    That was my review of Lilac Vegetal about a year ago. I thought this stuff was so disgusting, I poured my bottle down the shitter. Since that time, however,I have read a number of positive reviews of this scent, so I decided to buy a new bottle and revisit it.

    Nothing will ever change my opinion of the way this smells during the first two or three minutes. It literally smells like a puddle of urine with some rotting salad floating on top. I don't know what drugs the perfumer had to be on to create an opening accord like this. I always thought top notes were supposed to be a teaser, something bright and cheerful that would make you want to keep smelling. Not here. Lilac Vegetal's opening makes you want to cut off your nose.

    Luckily within minutes the nastiness dissipates, and then things settle down and start to smell pretty good. Lilac Vegetal is simply a very bitter and powdery floral scent. If you like strong, bitter florals with a barbershop talc smell underlying everything, you will love this scent. When I say strong, I mean the floral notes are very bitter, almost acrid, not that this is some big powerhouse with monster sillage. This is a dandified, fairly discreet skin scent that smells very masculine and lasts a good 3 or 4 hours. It's so old school it makes Brut smell like A*Men. It's what you'd expect the guy on the Pinaud Clubman label to smell like, or some guy who wears a powdered wig.

    The sticker on the bottle recommends splashing this all over your body after a shower. Ah, no. Granted, I like this scent now, but I wouldn't want everyone within a ten foot radius of me to be smelling this. Bees would swarm on me too. This is a great scent however to wear if you want to feel what it was probably like being in a barbershop during the early 1800s. It's a great blast from the past, and a very gentlemanly fragrance. Thumbs up now.

    MY RATING: 7/10

    13th August, 2009 (Last Edited: 18th October, 2010)

    bentan's avatar

    Singapore Singapore

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    Kenzo pour Homme by Kenzo

    Phew, this is one bizarre fragrance and those "Can't wait to scrub it off" types. The only thing I liked was the bottle, both the old and the new.

    I have to agree that the sillage and longevity is great but it was totally unpredictable on me. From the first whiff, I was hit by s synthetic Japanese melon/ lime air-freshener which almost made me vomit and it went downhill from there. The fragrance played hide-and-seek with me, disappearing one moment, and then resurfacing with a vengeance later on. Perhaps, in line with the aquatic ocean theme: the unpredictability of Nature.

    When it settled down, I was looking for the ocean-like, seaweed notes but all I got was a dirty ocean. It wasn't a polluted ocean, but a sweaty, salty, sour unscrubbed marine scent. I decided to be a bit more adventurous, resist the scrubbing off to see if it was indeed a woody base as promised and yes indeed (after hours), I was rewarded by marine driftwood. It was still unfortunately, sour.

    This is not one clean boring aquatic scent. Interesting, but really not a favorite despite the use of fabulous notes of oakmoss, vetiver, patchouli, sandalwood, musk, iris, cedar; all warm and powdery not horrible gone wrong. I would say, a contrast to the cleanliness and transparency of Kenzo's L'Eau de Par.

    13th August, 2009

    athenahelen's avatar

    Singapore Singapore

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    Soir de Paris / Evening in Paris (original) by Bourjois

    I agree with underglass that Soir de Paris stays as fresh as if it's just purchased. I have the original and I really love it. It was a great find and I should go back to the shop and buy up the rest of the bottles they have. I really love it. It is neither too floral nor too green. I love the berry notes.

    13th August, 2009

    Diamondflame's avatar

    Singapore Singapore

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    Vetiver by Guerlain

    Well folks, it's been a year since I last reviewed this well-loved classic and gave it a 'THUMBS DOWN'. I have recently revisited it to see if my feelings about it have changed expecially having smelled many vetiver scents over the past one year. Thank the fragrance gods - at last, I think I've finally got it!

    So here's my final verdict:
    ................It smells like something that's been kept since the 1960s!



    September 2009 review:

    An award winning fragrance with many positive reviews. You can't possibly go wrong with this one, right? WRONG. This is a 'TRY BEFORE YOU BUY'. A nasty fecal note that refuses to budge after 2 hours sent me looking for some rubbing alcohol. I will probably try this again some time in the future. Just not over the next year or two.

    13th August, 2009 (Last Edited: 02nd October, 2010)

    jbr's avatar

    United States United States

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    Aqua pour Homme by Bulgari

    One of the most authentically "aquatic" aquatics out there. This scent doesn't just try to abstractly conjure the marine atmosphere intended to be evoked by others of its type - the upfront, lifted-straight-from-the-beach posidonia note grabs you immediately and never lets you forget that this is a scent of the sea. Despite the associations, this isn't really what I would consider to be a "beach scent" - I find there to be a moody and gently mysterious atmosphere to this fragrance which makes me think that it is not appropriate for wear in the stifling heat. Rather, perhaps it is one for a rainy day or a walk along the beach in the evening with a cool sea breeze. In any event, this is a very well constructed aquatic which I believe could find favor with both fans ands critics of that scent genre.

    13th August, 2009

    meadowgirl's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Pure Poison by Christian Dior

    This perfume, to me, and on my skin, is like being hugged by a warm soft cashmere scarf on a snowy winter's day. It's musky yet sweet; 'cool' yet 'warming'. If I could sum up Pure Poison in a colour, it'd be white, or whitey-grey. It's nothing like the dark purple seductive packaging that it comes in. It's all White for me. It's like being caressed by a joyous winter flower and the heady scent coming off the petals on a snowy day and wafting up to soothe and tempt your nose. This, to me, is a Winter scent. Soft, yet bewitching. Just like snow.

    13th August, 2009

    slimbob714's avatar

    United States United States

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    Jazz by Yves Saint Laurent

    my first review
    Woody foundation overlaid with floral notes with pepperish spice fading in and out. The wood base save it from being too sweet for me. Very well put together from top to bottom. Seamless, very smooth, almost liquid in the note progressions.

    YSL Jazz works best for me when applied to create a very subtle, slowly perceived aura--close in. Go easy on the spritzs. Do not judge this fragrance by sniffing your wrist. Move your arm around and smell the aura.

    Longevity is excellent- about 8 hrs. Fragrance projection is close in. Very much recommended

    13th August, 2009

    rivoli's avatar

    Australia Australia

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    Un Jardin Après La Mousson by Hermès

    I find this 'fume stunning; evocative of the lush funkiness that Australians associate with our tropical environments in the north...there's always something a bit overripe in the air, there's too much sweet rain in the wet season, the flowers lurk in the scrub wafting maddening trails in the night, the melons seduce you in the cool supermarkets where you go to escape the heat. But the crowning achievment in 'Mousson' is the amazing sense of ginger, not just the smell but an actual physical zing that to me makes this work abstract genius.
    It hit me like Angel did, after a few decades of being safely tucked up with Mitsouko and L'Heure Bleue (sorry my loves, too many 'fumes, not enough time...and now you have the lolly factor that does NOT belong in you).
    Power to J-C Ellena for creating a masterpiece like this within what I am now finding out is a modern perfumery palette losing the great materials of the past. Maybe there is hope post-oakmoss!

    13th August, 2009

    aktp-iciook's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    CK In 2 U Him HEAT by Calvin Klein

    Hi there :)

    I finally received my CK in2u him HEAT and I have to admit that this fragrance blows me away. It is rather underpowering but still bringing you a fruity and refreshing scent. I agree with "Andrewthecologneguy" that you need to apply this CK more than you normally do to keep it last longer.

    This reminds me of Tommy for him in some ways. However, this CK fits into your Summer fragrance regime nicely without being inferior to others.

    Cheers,

    13th August, 2009

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    Youth Dew by Estée Lauder

    The Pharaohs and Queens of ancient Egypt would have perfumed their skin with this. It is so rich and elegant and ancient smelling that there really isn't anything else that compares to it. It makes its presence known and makes no apologies for who and what it is. I love to wrap myself in its dark richness and revel in the complements I receive.

    13th August, 2009 (Last Edited: 15th September, 2009)

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    Opium by Yves Saint Laurent

    I really love this fragrance and I do wear it. My friends think my taste in scent is so strange and yet I am always being told how wonderful I smell where as my male friends all wear the same scent which always changes depending on what is the newest scent, and the only comments they get are "whatever you're wearing you have too much on." :) I can't help but think of the Pharaohs of ancient Egypt when I smell Opium so opulent and ever present. I've been told how unusual it is for someone my age to appreciate the perfumes I do and how nice it is that I do. And unlike my friends I know how much to spray on.

    13th August, 2009

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    Égoïste / L'Égoïste by Chanel

    There is just something not quite right with Egoiste but I don't care for any of the Chanel mens line.

    13th August, 2009

    MrsOneal's avatar

    Scotland Scotland

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    Laundromat by Demeter Fragrance Library

    ugh. If you hate the smell of laundry detergent and dryer sheets as much as I do, you will hate this as much as I do.

    13th August, 2009

    MrsOneal's avatar

    Scotland Scotland

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    Natural Attraction Never Lonely by Demeter Fragrance Library

    to my untrained, completely novice nose, this starts out with a rich dark chocolate smell, quickly settles into a peppery ambergris, and fades into a black pepper. it stays close to the skin but does fade quickly. it doesnt last; none of the demeters last.
    if you like ambergris as much as I do, get this.
    you'll be sniffing yourself for a few hours until it fades.
    I love it.
    also, you might want to try Ava Luxe's Madame X.

    13th August, 2009

    MrsOneal's avatar

    Scotland Scotland

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    Madame X by Ava Luxe

    I tried Madame x because I was looking for a new ambergris fragrance, and after reading the reviews here, I was impressed.
    Its everything everyone here says: ambergris, moss, animal, hot sex.
    I LOVE it.
    If you like the majority of the fragrance notes listed, you'll love it too.
    When I wear it, I dont douse myself in it, just dab on my neck and wrists - so I dont know if its just me or if it isnt long lasting at all.

    13th August, 2009

    pince_nez's avatar

    United States United States

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    Nino Cerruti by Cerruti

    Opens with an overpowering smell of fresh/green/minty notes that segues into a layer of crushed white florals churned with spices. Marvelous sillage, almost outrageously so! After about an hour, it settles into a bed of musk/benzoin/cedar/amber. Beautiful scent, very 80s and likely to get you noticed very quickly! But be warned -- this frag has that pungent/reeking sweat residue (like in Kouros) that persistently lingers.

    Marvelously constructed, but not for the faint of heart.

    13th August, 2009 (Last Edited: 16th November, 2010)

    Mario Justiniani's avatar

    Cuba Cuba

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    Bay Rum by Burt's Bees

    Holy Pimenta Racemosa!

    Yes. There really is a West Indies Bay Tree and that's where Bay Rum comes from, not storks.

    The added spices; cinnamon, clove, lime or whatever serve to make it interesting--or just plain weird.

    Like CJ I wanted to like this one too but the clove/spices are set to overkill

    I tried 2 bottles from the shelf. It was obvious one had been there longer than it should have, but both smelled . . .
    It feels as if one is being uncivil by giving a bad review to a discontinued fragrance, rather like speaking ill of the dead, but you didn't have to scramble to wash this crap off your hands.
    And I do like Bay Rum.

    14th August, 2009

    iMaverick's avatar



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    Barbara Bui by Barbara Bui

    There was a bit of a buzz with this scent and how people really liked the incense in this fragrance. Looking at the notes, I thought it would be a gender neutral type of fragrance. Finding a bottle for cheap online, I bought it blind.

    I found it slightly out of my league of tastes. Many say that the incense is the center of attention in this fragrance, but not so with my skin chemistry. The opening is pleasant, with a burst of incense and...uh-oh, a very pronounced note of powdery heliotrope. I thought it would've been subdued. At this point it really reminded me of Kenzo Flower Parfum.

    The incense note relaxed significantly, or rather disappeared, and was replaced by musk and very sweet ambery notes.

    The drydown is very vanillic on me, very gourmand. It reminded me of sticky and melted vanilla ice cream all over my fingers.

    Many call this a skin scent, but to me it is a very noticeable sweet, musky, and gourmand fragrance. It projects a lot on me.

    I would call this a pretty and sensual scent. I think it smells a bit fun loving and womanly. I blame my skin chemistry for this. Sweet, floral, and musky notes fly off my skin to create a cloud around me. My skin amplifies this kind of stuff.

    The fragrance is simple enough to be layered with other scents, to create an oriental feel to dry, woody, or green fragrances, so it's not a total loss for me.

    For those who like vanilla type fragrances with a pronounced incense note, try Roberto Cavalli's Oro. I LOVE IT, and the incense lasts right to the drydown!

    14th August, 2009

    Margareta's avatar

    Sweden Sweden

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    Cristalle Eau Verte by Chanel

    I do deeply love Cristalle Eau Verte! The Chanel-quality is very present, even if this one is different from the othert Chanels! It is longlasting on my skin, and has a quiet mysterious tone all the time. There isn´t any bodylotion (yet) to the frag, so I use to wear it with the lotion of Clarins Eau Ensolleilante, as these two goes quite well together.

    It differs very much from original Cristalle, it is much more mature and a bit more quiet. It should have had a name of it´s own!

    I hope this one stays in the shops, as N.r 5 Eau Perimere is supposed to do. I will end up every drop in my bottle, and most probebly I want to rebuy it when it is empty. This is my best fraganse for work!

    Two big thumbs up from me!

    14th August, 2009 (Last Edited: 23rd September, 2009)

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