Fragrance Reviews from August 2009

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    Sugandaraja
    Canada Canada

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    Stephen Jones by Stephen Jones

    Bold violets, soapy aldehydes, and a peculiar bitter note combine to make something magical and greater than its parts. I wish I could write more... but I'm at a loss to truly describe this. It's unique, it's haunting, and I highly recommend it.

    03 August, 2009

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    Sugandaraja
    Canada Canada

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    Brigitte by Tocca

    What wonderful top notes! I'd never realized how much rose and ginger are well-paired until smelling Brigette. The big, jammy rose note is cut beautifully with a fiery ginger, the effect being very bright and vibrant while distinctly oriental. Sadly, all good things must come to an end, and the ginger departs, leaving a larger-than-life rose and musk combo that's disturbingly air-freshener-esque at points. In the heart I feel myself treading water in a sea of rose potpouri ( did I mention the sillage is as subtle as a hand-grenade? ) Far into the base the rose fades, and Brigette becomes a vanillic musk.

    It's not the perfect fragrance, at least for me, but it's unique and very underrated.

    03 August, 2009

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    eRL00p
    United States United States

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    Aqua pour Homme by Bulgari

    This is Polo Black with a Wood base. I really like these kind of fragrances, but landed on Polo Black as my favorite. The wood base on this sometimes overpowers the fruity notes, which then return showing more power. Its a nice and fighting kind of fragrance; I feel like the wood and citrus notes are battling to be most prominent. It is interesting and I am surprised I went so long without testing it. Aqua is a great aquatic fragrance

    03 August, 2009

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    eRL00p
    United States United States

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    D&G L'Amoureaux 6 by Dolce & Gabbana

    this is a soft fragrance with light citrus and ends with a wood & pepper combo. that softness of the scent fades to open more citrus and the hint of pepper in the middle. The pepper stays towards the end leaving a woody/light-pepper base. It is an interesting one. I liked it at first but thought it may be to simple due to it being unisex. Its pleasant without being overly manly or too feminine. It is a soft scent, but not a full on gourmand, which I like. It has the citrus and light pepper so its something different for guys. I do not know all too much on womens perfumes, but I think the softness of this scent allows a woman to pull it off. Overall, this L'Amoureaux think it accomplishes that through its light nature. It seems like a breeze would destroy this fragrance, not carry it. It is just a light pleasant smell, doesn't say much aloud, yet smells great when you have the chance. It seems like you would have to use this perfume in long spells. It is one that seems to get better every time you smell it-- you usually do not detect all the notes the first few times you smell it.

    03 August, 2009

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    Somerville Metro Man
    United States United States

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    Aubépine-Acacia by Creed

    Creed Aubepine Acacia

    It is so much fun when you get surprised by a House. I've tried all of the classic Creeds and I like them, for the most part. As part of making sure I understand all of the scents from a House I try to make sure I expereience all of them at some point. Due to a very generous gift early on in my Basenotes expereince I was given a bottle of Creed Aubepine Acacia which was created in 1965. I received this bottle in the late winter and in my enthusiasm wore it and was disappointed. Then I gave it another try in the heat of summer and what a turnaround. What was a tight uninteresting scent at first sniff became a wonderful surprise on second sniff. The top notes of bergamot laced with galbanum need the heat to let them expand. Although while these two notes are finding their footing there is a rocky 5-10 minutes where this scent seems like it isn't going to come together, but then it does. The heart is where the titular notes come into play as the herbal and green nature of hawthorn (aubepine) and the sweet floral of mimosa (acacia) combine much more harmoniously, than the duo at the top, as right from the moment they appear they take this scent to a new level. The base is a sheer amber which keeps the light tone in place and keeps the refreshing nature in place. Aubepine Acacia feels a bit like a refreshing eau de colognes but with much more longevity. This is marketed as part of the Creed Feminine Line but I don't see it as not being firmly unisex in nature. The floral nature never takes so much of a central role and the green nature of this is really the dominant accord. On a hot summer day Aubepine Acacia is like a refreshing cool drink of water for my nose.

    03 August, 2009

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    Somerville Metro Man
    United States United States

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    Aramis 900 by Aramis

    Aramis 900

    Aramis is one of those Houses that it took me a while to explore. One of the main reasons was that the original Aramis was associated with guys who wore too much cologne as I spent many nights choking on some would-be player’s cologne trail and it would invariably be Aramis. Flash-forward to a couple of years ago and I cautiously try Aramis Tuscany and say not bad. I follow this up with a sniff of JHL. Then the SA goes you should try this one it’s by the same person who designed Aramis. Immediately I’m like no chance, but it was too late, because like a trained sniper she’d sprayed the back of my hand. When I pulled it cautiously to my nose I was met with this overwhelmingly strong opening that made me think “Bleahh” but I gave it a moment and this became the scent that really turned my opinion of Aramis the House around. The scent on the back of my hand was the 1973 creation of Bernard Chant, Aramis 900. The opening of 900 is very strong and pushes right to the edge of what indoles can create. When indoles are used in too high a concentration they can come off smelling fecal but as they mellow they open up a wonderful deep green quality to a scent. From the first spray of 900 it comes off just to the wrong side of fecal but it thankfully lasts mere minutes and the deep green character comes through along with a bergamot that gives it a little sparkle. The depth of this green never really lets go and it is joined by a rosewood note which adds a little of both parts of that compound word as I get a little rose and a little wood to balance the green. The base is all chypre as oakmoss, vetiver and patchouli close 900 in standard style. Aramis 900 says on the bottle that it is an “herbal eau de cologne” and for a pyramid which contains no herbs it does come off as exactly what it’s labeled as. Unlike Aramis, 900 does not leave a trail of choking “admirers” in its wake. It is fairly close-wearing for a cologne with the heft it displays. Thankfully, 900 was the scent which has allowed me to put aside the bad memories of my youth and make new friends with an old House.

    03 August, 2009

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    Somerville Metro Man
    United States United States

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    Eau des Îles by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

    Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Eau des Iles

    I used to spend my summers on a sailboat in the Caribbean instead of going to summer camp. When we would tie up in a local marina my friend Buddy and I would untie out bicycles from down below and be ready to go exploring. I can always remember my legs astride my bike looking at a new island and taking a deep breath. I would smell the flowers indigenous to the islands, usually there would be bags of spices to be shipped somewhere, the smell of smoke drifting, and somewhere the smell of roasting coffee. That was the smell of exploration for much of my young life. Thanks to a very generous Basenoter I have rediscovered this smell in Jean Laporte's 1988 creation for Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, Eau des Iles. The top of this is the smell of myrtle and tarragon the mix of light floral and light spice is exactly what the breeze would bring. As we move into the heart, a beautiful coffee accord becomes evident along with a smoky incense, that is more smoke than incense, and the floral character deepens as ylang ylang adds to the myrtle from the top. The coffee accord deserves mentioning because this is an accord of the oily roasted bean, slightly woody and very aromatic. The base is a classic Laporte mix of patchouli and vetiver and this is the herbal kind of patchouli which mixes well with the green sharpness of vetiver. Eau des Iles is one of those scents that seems to last forever on my skin as I always detect it the next morning. Eau des Iles also was a scent that took me multiple wears for me to finally be able to wrap my head around it. Which, on reflection, is only appropriate for a scent which reminds me of my days of exploring new things.

    03 August, 2009

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    Somerville Metro Man
    United States United States

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    L'Eau D'Issey pour Homme by Issey Miyake

    Issey Miyake L'Eau D'Issey pour Homme


    Guilty pleasures I have many. I love fine food and will pay lots of money for a tasting menu at one of my favorite chef's restaurants. On the other hand some nights there is nothing like a Burger King Whopper with cheese. There are times I sit there chewing thinking this is better than anything I have ever eaten before. As in life so it is with perfume. I have found a number of niche aquatic scents that I love but there are some days when I wear Jacques Cavallier's 1994 creation for Issey Miyake, L'Eau D'Issey pour Homme, that I think this is still the best. L'Eau D'Issey pour Homme is Perfume 101 for many colognoisseurs and rightfully so. It has been a staple scent of the fresh, aquatic category and is many perfume wearers aquatic of choice. One reason is it is probably one of the longest lasting in this category of scent. It is the only one I own that I have to be careful not to spray too much on and I don't have to worry about freshening it up later in the day. That is a big advantage. The other reason is it just is a good, solid scent. Yes there are better out there, a few. There are many much worse, a lot. From the top L'Eau D'Issey pour Homme blows in on a fresh breeze of citrus with yuzu taking the lead but there is a slight hit of coriander and sage to give a little unexpected depth to the top. The heart takes those and adds some spices with a little more heft to them as nutmeg, cinnamon and saffron deepen the development. They are joined by a green geranium note. The base goes all woody fresh with a light mix of sandalwood, vetiver and a touch of amber. L'Eau D'Issey pour Homme is the epitome of a linear scent starting off light and increasing in weight and depth thorughout. It has a nice sillage to it to add to its already mentioned longevity. Just as when I sit at Burger King eating my Whopper; L'Eau D'Issey pour Homme manages to bring the same guilty smile to my face, as big as it gets.

    03 August, 2009

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    Somerville Metro Man
    United States United States

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    Macassar by Rochas

    Rochas Macassar

    Every once in a while I want to wear something that leaves a fragrant trail behind me. Much like in the old Looney Tunes cartoons featuring Pepe Le Pew when his scent is depicted in a colorful cloud emanating from his tail. Not that I want to smell like Pepe Le Pew, mind you. When I get in that mood I almost always look to the powerhouse section of my wardrobe and the scents that were created in the late 70's and early 80's. These are masculine scents that wear gold chains, shirts unbuttoned down to their navel, and Italian leather shoes. They're not subtle, they are a sign of their times, and the shoes still look good. Rochas Macassar which was created in 1980 by Nicolas Mamounas is a perfect example of this style of perfumery and at least for me still works when I'm in the right mood for it. The top is a mix of absinthe and pine. This gives it a slightly astringent, medicinal quality which somehow keeps its balance on my skin. The heart is a mix of the clove-like quality of carnation and the rose-like quality of geranium mixed with a healthy dose of patchouli. Here is where the power of Macassar really comes to the fore. The carnation really picks up the astringency of the top notes and carries it to a deeper more comfortably aromatic space as the geranium and the patchouli complete the transition. The base is where Macassar really shows off its hairy chested masculinity with a mix of vetiver, oakmoss, and musk all in support of a fine, deep leather accord. The supporting players to the leather really add to the overall feel of the base and make this an extremely satisfying close. Needless to say Macassar has a lot of sillage to it and lasts a long time as do most of the powerhouses of this era. Macassar is a scent that was unapologetic in its forwardness and I share that quality in my enjoyment of it.

    03 August, 2009

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    Somerville Metro Man
    United States United States

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    Cuba by Czech & Speake

    Czech & Speake Cuba

    Growing up in S. Florida in the 60's I watched the Cubans who fled Castro turn Little Havana into a thriving neighborhood. I used to ride my bike down there and feel like I had entered a new country. One of my favorite ways to spend time was playing dominos with some of the older men of the community. They taught me the game, helped me sharpen my Spanish speaking skills, and told me stories of the Cuba that was. Because I have such a strong mental picture of what Cuba is like and the smells I associate with Little Havana I was very interested in a scent called Cuba. This 2002 creation by John Stephen for Czech & Speake lives up to its name and does a great job evoking the smells of the islands. The top is the mojito accord that Guerlain Homme promised, but Mr. Stepehn achieves, in Cuba. A mix of lime, rum and mint starts Cuba off and while this does come off as a mojito my long standing bugaboo with mint still stands as it comes off toothpaste like but thankfully not dominant as it is the rum and lime that carry the top. Next is the spicy latin heart of Cuba as clove and bay come in with some heat and bring this to life along with the lightest of rose. No trip to Cuba would be complete without cigars and the base of Cuba is tobacco laden goodness. Along with the tobacco are solid components of vetiver to contrast the sweetness of the tobacco and cedar to draw some clean borders around all of it. According to the note list there is some incense here but I have never gotten that in my experience with this scent. Cuba is a long-lasting scent on me with moderate sillage. Cuba does a great job reminding me of the stories the abuelos told me while playing dominos. It smells what I imagine a night at the Hotel National in Havana smelled like back in the 50's.

    03 August, 2009

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    Somerville Metro Man
    United States United States

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    Ginestre by Santa Maria Novella

    Santa Maria Novella Ginestra

    There is a point every summer where spring and its lush green starts to get seared by the sun and the greenery begins to dry up. As you walk past a newly mown field you get this sweet, grassy smell. This is one of the scents of the end of summer for me. Santa Maria Novella has captured this green and floral smell in their scent, Ginestra. Ginestra is a flower also known as Scotch Broom. Santa Maria Novella is one of the oldest farmacias in the world and dates back to the 17th century. That it would be one of these farmacias to get the smell of summer grass so right is no surprise to me. The top of Ginestra starts with a very light citrus accord of bergamot, lime and orange blossom. The heart of this comes in with a beautiful sweet, grassy, hay accord accompanied by a light floral which must be the scotch broom flower. It is most like a very dialed-down osmanthus to my nose and the lightness of it accentuates the sweet of the hay but also adds contrast to the grassiness, too. A touch of oakmoss creeps in towards the end of the evolution but Ginestra stays firmly in the floral green stage for the majority of its duration on my skin. Santa Maria Novella Ginestra comes as an EDT and on my skin has decent but not great longevity. It has surprising sillage for an EDT though. Ginestra is definitely a warm-weather scent as it needs some heat to really allow it to flower. For me I'm going to lie down in my newly mown field and watch the clouds go by overhead with a big smile on my face.

    03 August, 2009

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    Somerville Metro Man
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    At The Beach 1966 by CB I Hate Perfume

    CB I Hate Perfume At The Beach 1966

    I own four scents which are meant to resemble suntan oil/lotions. Some of them get the suntan lotion note completely right, Bond No. 9 Fire Island and Jean Patou Chaldee. Some of them remember to include the smell of sun-warmed skin, Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess. Only one of them remembers to add the ocean to the mix, Christopher Brosius’ 2005 release for his CB I Hate Perfume line, At The Beach 1966. As in all of the scents I mentioned previously Mr. Brosius’ inspiration was the scent of a suntan lotion of the time, Coppertone. 1966 was a simpler time when we, probably foolishly, didn’t pay attention to SPF’s or dermatological risks of being in the sun. We just wanted to be as brown as we could get. The choice of suntan lotion for many in those days was Coppertone. Right from the top of this Mr. Brosius hits the Coppertone accord accurately. It reminds me as I would arrive at the beach walking by the early risers who already had absorbed the sun’s first rays. The smell of Coppertone on warm skin would surround me. Then as I’d unroll my towel the breeze would blow in from the surf and I’d get the smell of the salt spray from the waves crashing, followed by the smells of the sand. Mr Brosius brilliantly brings that milieu to life in At The Beach 1966 as after the Coppertone accord fades a bit there is a strong salty, ozonic accord which mimics the surf followed by an iodine laden accord which evokes the wet sand under that surf. Mr. Brosius sells his creations as water perfumes and if that term makes you nervous about strength or longevity I haven’t found the use of a water base to have any difference over the alcohol used in most other perfumes. At The Beach 1966 is a long-lasting, close wearing scent on me. At The Beach 1966 is like captured time in a bottle of perfume and it has all the ingredients from a day at the beach.

    03 August, 2009

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    Somerville Metro Man
    United States United States

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    Fire Island by Bond No. 9

    Bond No. 9 Fire Island

    Growing up in South Florida in the late 60's and early 70's there was one "it" hotel on Miami Beach, The Fontainebleau. It was where the richest people who would flee the cold, of a mostly Northeastern winter, would stay. It was also where I had my Senior Prom. As a child I was able to spend many afternoons at the bow-tie shaped pool at The Fontainebleau. As I would be playing in the pool and observing the adults around me one thing I would notice was the brownest, most-tanned, sun worshippers were all using the same tanning lotion. It came in a large metal squeeze tube with orange and brown stripes on it. It was called Bain de Soleil Orange Gelee. I think it had an SPF of like negative 4, not that they kept track of that in those days. Most of these very stylish tanners would be covered in a sheen of this stuff and it had the most interesting scent to it. I could stand next to the pool at The Fontainebleau and breathe deeply and get a contact high from the amount of this baking in the sun around me. This was the smell of sun and wealth for me. I hadn't come across this smell in well over 30 years until I picked up Michel Almairic's 2006 creation for Bond No. 9, Fire Island. From the first moment I sprayed Fire Island on I was in my bathing suit poolside at The Fontainebleau as this scent absolutely is the scent of Bain de Soleil Orange Gelee. Of course now I can actually pick apart some of the threads that make up the tapestry of this scent. The top starts with a fresh beat of cardamom and neroli but it is quickly overtaken by a mix of tuberose and musk in the heart of this. This is the signature smell of Bain de Soleil and M. Almairic mixes a heady floral like tuberose with an animalic light musk which conjures up the sun kissed skin. As this develops into the base the musk becomes deeper and patchouli joins in but in a light, unobtrusive way. Fire Island's core is the mix of tuberose and musks and it is really nice. Because of the presence of those musks I think this is a very wearable floral for a man. Fire Island has a great longevity on me and it doesn't have a lot of sillage. It stays pretty close to my skin for its duration. M. Alamiric has reached into my memory and re-created a childhood spent poolside and allows me to remain a tanned young boy frolicking in a hotel pool even as I approach 50.

    03 August, 2009

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    Somerville Metro Man
    United States United States

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    Bronze Goddess Eau Fraîche Skinscent by Estée Lauder

    Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess Eau Fraiche Skinscent

    As someone who grew up in South Florida I feel a strong personal connection to the beach and the smells of the beach. It is one of the reasons I like aquatics for the ability to re-create the smell of the ocean and the surf. There is another way to conjure the beach milieu and that is to go for that melange of scent that encompasses sun-baked skin and the suntan oil slathered on that skin. Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess, the 2008 release, does that. There is a little contretemps about this scent because it is often compared to the 2007 release designed by Tom Ford, in 2007, called Azuree Soleil Eau Fraiche Skinscent. I have a sample of this and to my nose the two scents are identical and so I am going to credit Tom Ford with the design of Bronze Goddess, too. One of the harder things to do when trying to emulate a day on the beach in a perfume bottle is to keep it light but intense. This is because when you're at the beach the breeze comes along and whisks away any scents before they get too strong but then it lulls and you get a strong sense of the scents around you. Bronze Goddess does a great job of this. Right at the top you get a mix of light florals and coconut. Like the gardenia and jasmine bushes back at the edge of the beach and the slowly browning body on the towel next to you slathered with coconut sunscreen. On the other side of you a child is snacking on a candy apple as a sweet caramel accord joins the mix. Just beyond the next towel there are some dudes playing hacky sack and you get a hint of the incense they were burning in their van up in the parking lot. As the sun sets you smell the wood being collected for the evening fire pit as you pack up your towel and head home from your day at the beach. I could wish that Mr. Ford had chosen to include an ozonic accord of some kind to evoke the surf because this trip to the beach is oddly devoid of any hint of water. What is here is really quite nice and goes well with a sunny summer day whether I'm on the beach or not.

    03 August, 2009

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    Somerville Metro Man
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    Rose Kashmirie by Les Parfums de Rosine

    Les Parfums de Rosine Rose Kashmirie

    Marie-Helene Rogeon is the founder of Les Parfums de Rosine and their raison de etre seems to be to see how many different types of rose centered scents a House can make. With that kind of a mission that probably means there is a rose in there for every nose. I am a big fan of Les Parfums de Rosine Rose D'Homme. I also love the mix of rose and saffron I get from both Diptyque's Opone and Czech & Speake's Dark Rose. The 2007 creation, by longtime nose for Les Parfums de Rosine Francois Robert, Rose Kashmirie promised me rose and saffron in an oriental and I was looking forward to it. One of the things I like about Rose D'Homme is the arid dusty rose in that scent, Rose Kashmirie couldn't be more different as this starts with a full-throated roar of rose as lush and full-figured as rose gets on me. The rose is quickly joined by a touch of bergamot and then the saffron shows up and this is what Rose Kashmirie is all about as the smooth saffron takes the top to an enchanting olfactory space. As this develops the rose becomes deeper and slightly sweeter and then a hint of resin adds a slight bit of incense-like sweeteness to the scent. The base takes a turn towards vanilla and a light woody musk. The vanilla is the dominant note and that seems appropriate because the theme of Rose Kashmirie seems to be sweet rose and the vanilla allows that sweetness to develop all the way to the end. For all that this is an intense rose it does not carry a lot of sillage and is mostly close-wearing on me and I like an intense scent that only feels the need to fill up my nose and not the room. The longevity is excellent as have been all of Les Parfums de Rosine that I have tried to date. Once again I have taken a walk in Mme. Rogeon's garden of perfume roses and found a new one to add to my lapel.

    03 August, 2009

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    Shade
    Canada Canada

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    Virgin Island Water by Creed

    Yesterday, I bought this. Yes, it is $225.00 CAN for a 125 ml. I was a little hesitant to buy it considering I have never smelled it and there was no tester and the place I got it. Nevertheless, I went ahead and made the purchase and I have no regrets.

    Virgin Island Water is a very soothing and exotic scent that surely lives up to the heaping price tag. Needless to say, if you like sweetness or in this case the smell of malibu rum and also a fragrance that will not go away, pay the price and you got it. I put it on yesterday and the crowd I was with last night were all intrigued and blown away by it. This being said, it is not an everyday scent. I certainly would not wear this to work. It is more of an evening scent or something for a special occassion. If it was cheaper in price, I would make this my everyday scent for all occassions.

    What is really amazing about this scent is the prominence of the different ingredients. When sprayed out you can actually identify the lime, rum, sugar and coconut. For the first several hours, I noticed they were quite sharp (which I like anyway) but around the 4th or 5th hour, it dryed down into a smoothness all the while still being able to identify the major components of the fragrance.

    I never thought I would be able to justify spending $225.00 Canadian on a fragrance until now. I will certainly be a long time follower of this house and, particularly, this fragrance.

    03 August, 2009

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    Chasing the Dragon
    United States United States

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    Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent

    When I wear this, I feel like a multi-billionaire Greek shipping magnate circa 1981. I should be on a Mediterranean yacht with at least three Studio 54 chicks in 'For Your Eyes Only' - style bikinis, Grace Jones 'Nightclubbing' playing on the radio and mounds of cocaine supplied by my mafia friends. This is the ultimate badass scent.

    03 August, 2009

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    Sicily by Dolce & Gabbana

    lovely floral fragrance. when i was 20, i wore this and lolita exclusively. the orange blossom and sandalwood have a marriage in heaven and the bergamot gives it a fullness.
    a chic, sophisticated scent that is becoming harder to find.

    03 August, 2009

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    Helmut Lang Woman by Helmut Lang

    this is such a comfort scent! addictive too. a cotton note comes into this with lavender and creamy--did i say CREAMY? because i mean a creamy vanilla.
    i have no problem layering this with a single floral note perfume oil. i can't imagine anyone getting offended with this subtle, sweet and sexy gem.
    the only problem i have with this perfume is it being more difficult to find than these five pounds i'm trying to lose.

    03 August, 2009

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    Hugo Deep Red by Hugo Boss

    a big lush of a fragrance. voluptuous, sexy, powdery, and musky. most definitely a night time perfume!! the sillage is amazing too.
    i love wearing this one when i want/am looking for attention.

    03 August, 2009

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    varvara


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    Blu Notte by Bulgari

    so dark and sensual...the vodka, bitter chocolate and iris are so seamlessly blended it will make your head swim.
    an absolute dream perfume with decent lasting power.

    03 August, 2009

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    Néonatura - Cocoon by Yves Rocher

    this juice packs a hard punch! one spray had me gasping for breath. no one has mentioned this but i really get a strong "kahlua" (mocha liquor note)
    a very affordable alternative to angel or another chocolate gourmand perfume.
    sillage is intense as is the lasting power.

    03 August, 2009

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    Notorious by Ralph Lauren

    a sales lady in a department store walked by and i got of whiff of overly sweet berries and stale cheap chocolate.
    "excuse me," i asked the lady with a smile," but what fragrance are you wearing?"
    "notorious" she replied "would you like a sample?"
    i accepted, thanked her and gave it away to the first taker.

    03 August, 2009

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    Truffles
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Jardins de Bagatelle by Guerlain

    Hmm, just got a sample of this through. Smells dated to me, reminds me very much of YSL Paris which was much loved in the 80s. Not unpleasant though just don't think I'll be buying or wearing it.

    03 August, 2009

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    Arpeggiator
    Germany Germany

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    Isfarkand by Ormonde Jayne

    Isfarkand starts with a very nice pepper-citrus, embedded by already noticeable woods. It's a discreet citrus, which you have
    to breathe in acitvely. I think it's a little bit hidden behind the dominant pepper note. After a good while this fresh citric-pepper note is displaced by a dry woody scent (I smell the dry cedar and little vetiver).
    I can hardly believe that Isfarkand is called an eau de parfum, because of the unacceptable sillage. This seems to be a general problem of the scents by Ormonde Jayne. In combination with the poor longevity the high price is not justified.
    (5/10)

    03 August, 2009

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    archibald
    United States United States

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    Sandalo by Etro

    The pickins are mighty slim in the Santal Forest these days, and it seems fruitless to debate which ones smell most like the real Mysore deal since the answer is probably d) none of the above. Etro's Santal (or at least my decant from a recent vintage) has absolutely no plot, but sure smells good which is more than one can say about Original Santal, the Floris, Lutens and Micheri sandalwoods, which IMO falsly trumpet the word "Mysore" in their names or notes. That being said, the Floris pales in the presence of Sandalwoods that actually contain a healthy slug of Mysore--Creed's Bois De Santal, which costs about 5 times as much, smells about 31.4 times better and as such will get my full bottle money if I can ever find it. I give this a thumbs up only because I always give frags that smell good a thumbs up regardless of their high artistry or lack thereof.

    03 August, 2009

    xmen's avatar
    xmen
    Singapore Singapore

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    Forest Rain by Kiehl's

    It's been a while since a single scent has so captivated me! This little known wonder from the house of Kiehl is enticingly good! Spread the words- this a classic and one of the best new scent to come out during the last few years!

    03 August, 2009

    Bartlebooth's avatar
    Bartlebooth
    Germany Germany

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    Ferrari (Red) by Ferrari

    Ferrari Red, or the stuff that Ferrari use to clean their windows. This is pretty harsh stuff, an indefinable component within the opening causes my senses a great deal of distress. It remains throughout the middle and base notes, and lends the whole production an abrasive texture. Either the alleged ingredients are in very short supply, or the components themselves are of very low quality. The bottom line is that this is a very harsh, unsympathetic and unpleasant fragrance,

    03 August, 2009

    Bartlebooth's avatar
    Bartlebooth
    Germany Germany

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    Joop! Go by Joop!

    A substandard, short-lived fruit and vanilla pudding. This adds absolutely nothing to the genre of modern fragrant confection that is so popular in malls the world over. It is basically a fruit opening, with a creamy wood base. Bare skin would be preferrable to this.

    03 August, 2009

    Bartlebooth's avatar
    Bartlebooth
    Germany Germany

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    Ed Hardy Man by Christian Audigier

    An unoriginal, but reasonably well executed cream puff fragrance that seems intent on being inoffensive in every way it can. There is very little development,, although it does improve beyond the confectionary top notes. Once in its stride, its a polite fruit candy and soft wood excusion lasting about 4 hours. Not really worth wasting too much time over.

    03 August, 2009

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