Fragrance Reviews from September 2009

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    lemur178's avatar



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    Un Jardin Après La Mousson by Hermès

    A wonderful peppery opening, like the olfactory equivalent of biting into a nasturtium flower, followed by a fragrant melon dry-down. It may not have the complexity and range of some of Ellena's other scents, but it's so fresh and unusual that it's a joy to wear - especially in winter, when it reminds you of those summer days in the sun eating cantaloupes at every meal. Uplifting.

    13 September, 2009

    lemur178's avatar



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    Eau de Pamplemousse Rose by Hermès

    Eau de Pamplemousse Rose is like diving headfirst into a sweet grapefruit, followed by a wonderful drydown that takes you into an entirely unexpected direction. The experience reminds me of Ellena's Bigarade Concentree, but in a sweeter, cleaner, lighter way (with the initial burst of citrus followed by a hint of Bigarade's underlying dirty sexiness). I used to quite like Hermes' Eau d'Orange Verte, but it never lasted more than a few minutes on me and I quickly gave up on it. Eau de Pamplemousse Rose has plenty of staying power, together with a more sophisticated, far more interesting blend of notes. When my husband tries it on, all he gets is the citrus (same with Bigarade), whereas on my skin it develops the full range. A wonderfully refreshing scent for the summer, and here's looking forward to discovering how it will work over the winter.

    13 September, 2009

    4eversummer's avatar

    United States United States

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    Madame Carven by Carven

    Top notes: coconut, green leaves, galbanum, peach and bergamot
    Middle notes: carnation, tuberose, iris, orchid, jasmine and hiacynth
    Base notes: amber, musk, benzoin, coconut, oakmoss and vetiver

    13 September, 2009

    4eversummer's avatar

    United States United States

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    Le Jardin by Eden Classics

    My first fragrance... purchased with babysitting money. Dreamy, light fresh green top note, white petals, soft powder with a very subtle incense dry down. Reminds me of pink lipstick, angora sweaters, designer jeans and my mother's pearl earrings. After school dances in the jr. high school boy's gym, swaying to Spandau Ballet in the arms of a football hero. Heady stuff the memories that nostalgic first fragrance conjures.

    13 September, 2009

    4eversummer's avatar

    United States United States

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    Head Over Heels by Eden Classics

    Cutest kitschy litttle bottle ever! Pretty but forgettable floriental. Wish I'd kept an empty bottle for my dressing table

    13 September, 2009

    4eversummer's avatar

    United States United States

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    Extraordinary by Avon

    Blackberry musk, candied pink grapefruit peel, white chocolate, bittersweet chocolate, champagne, orange liqueur, vanilla bourbon, sandalwood

    13 September, 2009

    4eversummer's avatar

    United States United States

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    Sexy Little Things by Victoria's Secret

    Fruity-floral blend of apple, exotic jasmine and sensual cashmere woods
    Top notes: apple, waterlily, osmanthus
    Middle notes: jasmine, honeysuckle, lotus
    Base notes: cashmere woods, musk, iris

    Kind of a retro 80's aggressively heady floriental meets the sugar crystallized uber fruity 2000's...
    like new wave night at the Shark Club.

    13 September, 2009

    shamu1's avatar

    United States United States

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    Lagerfeld Classic by Lagerfeld

    This is a very musky, hugely powdery oriental that is totally at odds with what has been trendy in the fragrance world for the past 40 years. Lagerfeld is a blast back to the Sixties, having a lot in common with old school fragrances like Royal Copenhagen and Black Suede.

    After a very strong, sweet powdery blast in the opening, Lagerfeld mellows out significantly, and the musk, spicy notes and dark aromatics take over. The drydown is dark, dry and very musky, and is my favorite part of Lagerfeld.

    I'm both surprised and impressed that this is still in production, because it really goes against everything that is currently in vogue. Wisecracks like "Grampy cologne" or "old man smell" are common among those who hate this. Although I think Lagerfeld is best suited for men over 40 like me, I don't think those are fair comments. Just because you don't have the savvy and life experience to pull off wearing Lagerfeld, it doesn't mean it's for old farts.

    The key to wearing Lagerfeld is moderation. Lagerfeld is a strong fragrance - one spritz too many will offend everyone around you, including yourself, and you'll come across as a bum. Lagerfeld needs to be applied lightly in order to savor all of its facets and elegance.

    MY RATING: 7.5/10

    13 September, 2009 (Last Edited: 18 May, 2011)

    knit at nite's avatar

    United States United States

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    Eau d'Hadrien by Annick Goutal

    This is a classic refreshing scent; which I will always want to have with me when travelling to hot climes (like visiting family in Arizona in the summer) just for the complete and utter burst of refreshment Eau d'Hadrien provides. The lemony topnotes are clean and sweet without the overly jeune fille characteristic of some citrus scents. I did not get a sharp or cloying quality, as some have described like furniture polish or medicinal preparations. This is a smell of the natural world in sunlight in a bottle- very real but also very fleeting.
    The reformulation seems "muskier", not as natural to me, but still very refreshing.

    13 September, 2009 (Last Edited: 22 August, 2012)

    Buzzlepuff's avatar

    United States United States

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    Zephyr by Neil Morris Fragrances

    Zephyr is very light and clean. This could be called Gendarme light. It is very clean and steam pressed. I think it is a fine light fruity floral synthetically sanitized fragrance.

    14 September, 2009

    Buzzlepuff's avatar

    United States United States

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    Cathedral by Neil Morris Fragrances

    This fragrance is less like a Cathedral incense fragrance and more like the actual interior of a cathedral. It smells warmly of oak, cedar, smoke, leather, and labdanum. I like the fragrance quite a bit but more for its nicely polished wood and leather feel. But, it pales in comparison to Avignon, or Black Tourmaline for a smoke incense mood incense. I am conflicted on this fragrance. I like how it smells, but it doesn't go with the name.

    14 September, 2009

    Buzzlepuff's avatar

    United States United States

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    Dark Season by Neil Morris Fragrances

    Opens with a rich cinnamon tinged darkness of frankincense, patchouli, Fir, and Myrrh. The dark vanilla base removes some density from this dark oriental opening and there is light at the end of the tunnel. As it wears on the heavy opening dies down to reveal more green fir + myrrh for a conifer wood darkness layered over warmth of dark vanilla and labdanum base. Less amber prominent that Ambre Fetische but similar . . . and very similar to Neil Morris EARTH TONES #3 NORTH WOODS but w/o the oakmoss. A deep warm resinous wooded scent that is very masculine and is definitely a mid winter fragrance.

    14 September, 2009

    Buzzlepuff's avatar

    United States United States

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    Assam by Neil Morris Fragrances

    An orange pekoe tea scent that seems watered down by whatever is in the base. The website says the base is musk, incense and oud but I can not find any of those notes in the fragrance. By the time it gets to a drydown it feels more like mango tea to me as well. Weak in projection. This fragrance is pleasant but it just does not stand up for anything. It is kind of muddled in its identity. Definitely a weak tea when compared to Tea for Two or CdG Tea.

    14 September, 2009

    Buzzlepuff's avatar

    United States United States

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    Taj by Neil Morris Fragrances

    TAJ is inspired by the Taj Mahal at dawn and it smells like India most definitely. The fragrance opens with mandarin + green tea made soft with cinnamon and light rose. White tea also adds to the dryness of the opening. The middle notes have frankincense, cedar and patchouli for an oriental feel. The base is a quiet chocolate softness with patchouli. This is a very pleasant warm oriental spice fragrance. Full bottle worthy for me!

    14 September, 2009

    Buzzlepuff's avatar

    United States United States

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    Gandhara by Neil Morris Fragrances

    GHANDARA opens with light mellow florals that have an earthy rotting vegetation smell in the background. Smells very much like India. The use of Mimosa, Lotus and Jasmine smells very pleasant at first but retains a rotting indole scent in the background. The indoles mix with fig and musks are very much like rural India. The flowers drifting on the wind, a rich green foilage mixed with a ripe vegetation smell. This is the world of nature in transformation! Beautiful but but mildly grotesque. I want to keep sniffing this over and over again. Very nice and quite a unique fragrance.

    14 September, 2009

    Buzzlepuff's avatar

    United States United States

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    Hologram by Neil Morris Fragrances

    HOLOGRAM is a synthetic light and translucent floral fragrance. This fragrance has a postmodern edge to it. It is a fast gesture that gets suspended in slow motion. When I deconstruct a whiff of Hologram I find the tartness of Yuzu along with juicy black currant that happens at the opening and is quickly muffled beneath a layer of violets and fig resulting in a languid suspended and thick mid note that feels like a frozen frame of crisp neutrality that is stretched out by the violet. The base adds translucency with a light synthetic musk warmed with amber. All together the notes are fresh but mellow, quick & sharp then neutral. It is similar to Mure et Musc from L'Artisan with the tart berries and light musk notes, but Hologram is slightly thicker and more suspended towards the end. Hologram is a good name for the effect of the notes. It is a curiosity of a scent that could easily hold great fascination for someone who needs this sort of thing.

    14 September, 2009

    Buzzlepuff's avatar

    United States United States

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    Hippie by Neil Morris Fragrances

    A patchouli charged spicey incense fragrance. Reminds me of heady stick incense I've burned before. I find it a little too bold for my taste. Reminds me of Intragant Patchouli from Parfumerie Generale but not nearly as well balanced.

    14 September, 2009

    Buzzlepuff's avatar

    United States United States

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    Earthtones #3 - North Woods by Neil Morris Fragrances

    EARTH TONES #3: NORTH WOODS - Basil and heather opens this scent followed by fir, fig and cut grass middle notes. This North Woods opening is a lighter woods than many wooded scents, but it retains a very sparkling green essence. The base is cedar, oak, redwood, myrrh, labdanum, oakmoss, vetiver. This scent has a great green pine oil opening from basil mixed with myrrh and is quite a bit more green than Dark Season which is more resinous. It kind of smells like a cross between Hinoki and Knize Forest, in the opening and mid notes, but there is a dry grassy scent at the base that smells like old burlap bag or oiled canvas. The base goes more and more to this oakmoss dry finish as it wears and develops. Not bad!

    14 September, 2009

    Buzzlepuff's avatar

    United States United States

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    Earthtones #2 - Desert Wind by Neil Morris Fragrances

    EARTH TONES #2 or High Desert is a silvery cedar scent that reminds of the smell of Zest bath soap. It is clean and fresh, but not niche enough. It is missing something special in how the various ingredients actually work together.

    14 September, 2009

    Buzzlepuff's avatar

    United States United States

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    Earthtones #1 - Dark Earth by Neil Morris Fragrances

    DARK EARTH - Myrrh, Sandalwood, Musks, frankincense, patchouli, vetiver. This is a lighter myrrh, musk and frankincense scent. Sandalwood and earth notes and golden musk keep it light for something named Dark Earth. I can't detect patchouli at all in the fragrance. This Dark Earth is in the same direction as Dark Season and Earth Tones #3, but it has a lightness from vetiver that is not apparent in the notes. Something just doesn't work in this fragrance for me.

    14 September, 2009

    Buzzlepuff's avatar

    United States United States

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    Gotham by Neil Morris Fragrances

    Polished woods, myrtle, myrrh, rose, leather and amber in the base. Warm and dark and very masculine.

    14 September, 2009

    Buzzlepuff's avatar

    United States United States

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    City Rain by Neil Morris Fragrances

    An aldehyde light floral, musk with ozone fragrance. The inspiration for this fragrance is the air after it rains in the city and it kind of smells like this. But . . this really does not hit that mark nearly as well as Demeter's Thunderstorm or others like it. I give it 1 star out of 4. 1/4.

    14 September, 2009

    Buzzlepuff's avatar

    United States United States

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    Leather Garden by Neil Morris Fragrances

    LEATHER GARDEN is a curious mixture of green flowers and a synthetic leather scent. The opening florals are a wonderful blend of green flowers (narcissus, hyacinth, peony, rose, lily) that smells very earthy with the addition of vetiver. There is bit of blackberry that sweetens the mix but also some vetiver to keep it very green. Then a brilliant blending move with the addition of leather. This is an oud tinged leather that is strange but sharp leather, but this mixes nicely with the green floral main notes. This fragrance is all about leather, flowers and greens, but very little heaviness or sweetness to the scent. It smells like I just walked into the fresh cooler of flowers and greens at my favorite florist while wearing a new leather coat. All desirable smells that mix well together. I like this scent more the longer I have it on. Neil deserves extra style points for uniqueness of this fragrance.

    14 September, 2009

    Buzzlepuff's avatar

    United States United States

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    Midnight Forest by Neil Morris Fragrances

    Tthe opening of Midnight Forest smells like redwood bark with a mysterious musk and green myrtle. Long after applied Midnight Forest, I still smell the crisp green of galbanum and myrtle while the woods have faded somewhat and there remains an airy transparency that does smell of cool moist night air in the deep woods. I like this one considerably.

    14 September, 2009

    Buzzlepuff's avatar

    United States United States

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    Prowl by Neil Morris Fragrances

    PROWL reminds me of a feline animal moving with stealth through exotic florals. The notes are Black Pepper, Honeysuckle green, sambac jasmine, tuberose, over a base of oakmoss, patchouli, amber and civet. A husky animal warmth that is very sexy. The indoles of the sambac jasmine and civet in the base keeps the animal alive in this one. After an hour or so, a warm powdery huskiness emerges through the florals into the warm civet base. It is feminine in allure but coupled with a very masculine aggressiveness - a cougar is on the prowl. . . Rowrrrrr!!

    14 September, 2009

    Buzzlepuff's avatar

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    Vapor by Neil Morris Fragrances

    VAPOR or "Ozonic Vinyl". It opens with a light soft synthetic plastick air that is a light simulation of air. This syntetic air settles into a powdery light freshness. Vapor could be an alien fragrance brought back from a hidden outer world planet or secretly inhabited asteroid. Aldehydes + more Aldehydes, water Lilly, tonka, heliotrope for the puffy clouds feel, with a base of ambroxin, musk, incense for a similar generic base as used in Hologram. Vapor could easily fill the brief for fragrances such as Escentric Molecules, Kenzoair (less the anise) or Odeur 53. This scent brings to mind the lyrics and tempo from the ambient trance track "Little Fluffy Clouds" by the Orb - " the little fluffy clouds, da, da, da, da, little fluffy clouds . . . .the little fluffy clouds . . . . " Vapor. check it out

    14 September, 2009

    genvy5's avatar

    United States United States

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    CK Free by Calvin Klein

    Smells like it was aiming at being a cheap Riverside Drive. The opening, despite consisting of notes which many members here love to hate, is actually interesting and nice to smell. But after that the scent loses balance and becomes pretty lame, fading too quickly through the drydown to its death.

    14 September, 2009

    Sugandaraja's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Iquitos by Alain Delon

    As a friend said, "It makes a grand entrance, but leaves the party too soon". If it lasted on me, Iquitos would be among my all-time favorites, but it's all head and no body. While it's around it makes a good impression.

    The top notes are of a piquant fruity-floral variety I've experienced in Czech & Speake's No. 88, an accord not unlike grape crush but richer and denser. In No. 88 the effect is smooth and deep, but an ample dose of aldehydes makes Iquitos effervescent to the point of brusqueness. This contrast of lush and angular notes is a little touch of genius in a bottle, and really what makes Iquitos unique.

    Perhaps inevitably, the drydown fails to live up to the promise of the top. The fragrance brightens and simplifies, the heart consisting of a powdery, apple-tinted rose with a touch of jasmine, an amiable leather gradually emerging in the hushed sillage of the base. I find it neither woody nor particularly patchouli heavy, especially given how inseparable rose and patchouli are in so many modern rose soliflores.

    I'm sad that this is discontinued, as it spoke "rose" in a unique way, but I could also wish it had a fuller and more complex base. I can only hope some up-and-coming perfumer steals the good ideas from Iquitos and does something new with them...

    14 September, 2009

    Sugandaraja's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    MCM Success by MCM

    Not quite the monster I was expecting it to be. In fact, it's a bit of a gentleman, entertaining you over wine and dessert while smoking a fine cigar.

    The top notes are surprisingly Youth Dew-esque, bergamot meeting heavy amber before spiced and honeyed tobacco rides in on a tide of syrupy booze. While sweet, the effect is not as cloying as it sounds. In fact it's a great deal less sweet than gourmand tobaccos such as Ambre Narguile, and in the drydown the booze slowly departs, leaving a rather earthy tobacco with a distinct touch of moss and patchouli. I find it very wearable.

    Success is an old-fashioned portrait of manliness painted with alcohol and tobacco, part gentlman's club; part machismo. Perhaps it's out-dated, but if you're reading a review of an obscure, retro men's fragrance, it could be just what you're looking for. Sadly, this fragrance is both discontinued and terribly underrated, so get it while you can.

    14 September, 2009

    Lunar's avatar

    United States United States

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    Island by Michael Kors

    I own this but will be getting rid of it. It certainly doesn't smell "tropical" to me. A watery scent. I certainly can't smell any honeysucle which is a fav of mine. Its was a BIG disapointment.

    14 September, 2009

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