Perfume Reviews

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Miyako by Auphorie

“One should always be drunk. That's all that matters...But with what? With wine, with poetry, or with virtue, as you choose. But get drunk.”
--- Charles Baudelaire

Auphorie Miyako is another viable option. I will not – I’m not able – to vivisect Miyako, at least not given my (hopefully temporary) severely abbreviated faculties, but this stuff is absolutely narcotic. Dizzying, literally. This should come with a government warning label before it is visited on an innocent population, sapping IQs and compromising SAT scores.

The scent also gives the strange sensation of having a quasi-physical VOLUME. I get that feeling also from, for example, vintage L'Heure Bleue. If you understand that velvety nimbus-like physicality I am referring to in L'Heure Bleue, multiply it by about 1.75.

The complexity of Miyako is plain, but a subtle scent this is not. I frankly cannot imagine wearing it – if anything, its uberfeminine - nor can I imagine my wife wearing it. Who could? Perhaps Simonetta Vespucci in Botticell’s “Venus and Mars.” (And it would have precisely the effect on Mars as depicted in that picture.) Or maybe, in a more modern context, Marilyn Monroe in the film “Niagara” (1953) where she plays a woman deceiving her husband and wears (in the words of the original script) a red dress “cut so low you can see her knees.”

The fact is, one really cannot be this inebriated all day. But I am happy to own a full bottle and to let out the genie for an occasional enraptured sniff. Beverley Nichols, in his memoir, “Father Figure” (1972) writes of his first intoxication on Chartreuse: “I was exquisitely drunk… I leaned back and apostrophized the gleaming fluid in my glass.” That’s exactly what I’ll do with Miyako.
03rd May, 2016

Oud Bleu Intense by Fragrance Du Bois

The opening is intensely masculine and far too fruity-citrus, but once past this phase, the drydown is absolutely incredible and definitely worth waiting for. I am so thankful I went in on this split blindly!

While I do get a "sense" of oud, it definitely is not the barnyard I've experienced with some I've sampled. For me, the base is mostly a creamy amber/sandalwood. I have no idea if this is a true grey amber or if the sandalwood is a true mysore, but whatever it is, it works for me, and lasts about 8-10 hours.
03rd May, 2016

Oud by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud is a romantic and saturnine "silent" musky oud's rendition with a central rose/patchouli saffrony accord and a general musky-honeyed silkiness surrounding all the elements. Super smooth chic velvet. This juice is never watery, wild, fizzy or provocative but exactly the opposite (smooth, hyper classy, velvety, silky, incensey-resinous and sophisticated). Yes, basically "barbaric" elements as oudh, patchouli, cedar and also saffron are (by a sleight of hand) in here alchemically combined in to an exquisite, finally honeyed and perfectly balanced piece of musky refinement. The final cedar is honeyed to die for. Not a complex or multifaceted fragrance but surely a dreamy graceful scent for us. A divinely soapy-languid "pure soul of oud".
02nd May, 2016
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Armani Privé Oud Royal by Giorgio Armani

if you are looking for a true and simple "ode to oud" western-style fragrance, look no further than Oud Royal. it is very, very well done.

immediately upon spraying, another oud fragrance in my arsenal came to mind - Cashmere Oud by MFK.

Oud Royal is similar to Cashmere Oud primarily for the *type* of oud they both look to recreate - Laotian, and putting that note front and center. this variety is actually pretty rare in the "real" oud oil community, but the Laotian note seems to be the dominant one used by western fragrance manufacturers. possibly because it's the easiest to recreate chemically, but also because it seems to pair very well with other notes added to it. what is interesting is that although Cashmere Oud is marketed as "wearable, like a soft cashmere sweater", i would disagree. i think it is a roundhouse punch to the face of extremely potent and dense Laotian oud note wrapped up in little else. the sheer brazenness of its power and its simplicity makes it a work of art.

Oud Royal, however, is the real cashmere sweater of the two. striking but gentle, true but forgiving. the synthetic Laotian oud note can have a fierce petroleum streak to it, but Evelyn Boulanger has made certain to take that edge off. perhaps it's the saffron or the dab of vanilla. perhaps it's the perfect plank of sandalwood the whole fragrance is served on. but the sillage is much better on Oud Royal than Cashmere Oud. more inviting, warmer, more seductive. something you want to be around and enjoy, not just appreciate hanging on the wall.

I am also a saffron lover and the saffron note here is exquisite. others have mentioned rose but i am not picking up on much rose in this scent at all. to me (also an unabashed rose lover), this is actually a positive. it is far too easy to pair oud to dense rose and call it a day. but when you can make dry, woody fragrance that brings out the very best of what oud is about, and at the same time making it as wearable as your favorite t-shirt, then you have done something special.

if i had my druthers, i'd make this scent a liiiiiittle more potent. not much, just a tad. mainly because it's such a beautiful fragrance, i want more people to experience it from afar! the longevity is okay but not great. the Armani website classifies this as an "intense eau de parfum". i think they are stretching the truth there a bit.

a safe blind buy for oud lovers. and a wonderful introductory oud fragrance to those just discovering oud's magic. in fact, if i had to pick one western oud fragrance to show a newbie to see if they like the genre or not, this might very well be it.

02nd May, 2016

Bang by Marc Jacobs

Similar to Sentiment by Escada or maybe its Terra D'Hermes... either way it doesn't last very long... Maybe 60 to 90 minutes then its gone... Very disappointing. What scent you do get is very nice.
02nd May, 2016
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United Kingdom

Pentachord Auburn by Tauer

Fruity with a cinnamon note, sandalwood in the drydown. All the components try to be discretely pleasant, but are pale and, I am afraid, plainly and synthetically dull. Not only discrete but weak.

Poor sillage, limited projection and six hours of longevity - even the performance is underwhelming.

No redeeming feature apart from the fact that it is neither nauseating nor sickening or cloying or overwhelming and has no trendy oud in it. 1.5/5.
02nd May, 2016

Dubai Ruby by Bond No. 9

Dubai Ruby is a unisex sensual fragrance housed in a beautiful gold & red star shaped bottle; very nice indeed!

It evokes a blend of East meets West on a hot summer night; I would swear there is a blend of gardenia/tuberose & rose in the heart similar to B9; again very beautifully done.

I have sampled it a few times and am finding the longevity a little bit shorter than most Bonds; was it meant to be worn in Hot Dubai weather?
I shall carry on using my sample until I understand the fragrance a bit better.

I wonder if a Tola oil might become available in the future for cooler weather use to ensure usual Bond longevity.

Thumbs up!
02nd May, 2016

Calycanthus Brumae by Acqua di Stresa

Acqua di Stresa Calycanthus Brumae is aromatic and piquant (extremely peppery and cardamomish), gingery and mildly spicy (cloves and nutmeg??), silent and mystic, humid and susurrant, cottony and breezy. Supremely musky, vaguely minty-waxy, deeply spicy-vegetal, floral (in a sort of softly honeyed way) and delicately laundry (spicy/soapy laundriness). It ideally evokes nostalgic afternoons along a mountainous lake's shore with the vision of a little picturesque town rooted gracefully bottom up a promontory. Arcane as the memory of disappeared toiletries of your childhood. This juice speaks about wet rural dawns and old cottages surrounded by nature. The scent opens kind of soapy-anisic-spicy (vaguely victorian, with hints of pepper, ginger, green notes and aromatic spices) and unveils a perfect final cocktail of aqueous frankincense, aromatic floral notes (camphoraceous Calycanthus), secret roots, woods and musks. Dry down is a cottony whisper of pure nostalgia. A pity for the faint duration on my skin. Synth but not too much. A poetic little shadowy juice for struggling souls.
01st May, 2016 (last edited: 02nd May, 2016)
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Lonestar Memories by Tauer

The two main phases are obvious: the leathery-smoky opening, combining a deep and slightly harsh leather with a smoky, campfire-cum-barbecue impression. Which on my skin is never overly intrusive or unpleasant. Rich - yes, intensive - yes, deep - yes, but all well combined.

The leather is quite dark, and a bit like an old leather coat, with hardly any gasoline not present - this is much less bold, raw and gutsy than Knize Ten; it is deeper and darker than Cuiron and also than the Cuir of the Nombre d'Or series.

A green, slightly herbal and slightly floral transition leads to the second phase, which sees a fairly dark vanilla together with a Taueresque sweetly-spicy incense impression; a synthetic sandal wood together with the spice keep the sweetness in check; this composition is never overly sweet, sickly or cloying; the balance is quite impressive.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a great eleven hours of longevity.

The wintery fragrance displays many of the features characteristics for many of Tauer's products. Very pleasant and blended very well, overall very nice. 3.25/5.
01st May, 2016

Love Shot by Ex Nihilo

Ex Nihilo Love Shot is a pleasant surprise for me. I have to admit that its name was initially kind of misleading about the orientation of my expectations since I was frankly expecting something less complex, less elegant, probably more experimental, fruity and abrasive. On the contrary Love Shot is far more classic in style and articulated than it seemed. First of all this is a feminine juice in my humble opinion, a really elegant french modern floral-chypre with a classic musky-spicy background conjuring holy classics from Ungaro, Cartier, Van Cleef&Arpels, Fendi, Ysl or Estee Lauder. The aroma is multifaceted, bright, spacious, musky/floral, fruity, woody, herbal, spicy, sophisticated and hyper elegant like a classic piece of french traditional perfumery. The kind of woman jumping on mind is sensual, dynamic and always maniacal in "fresh chic loveliness". There must be included far more notes beyond the listed raspberries, musk and lether imo. The latter is like a silky twist surrounding all the elements by a smooth final velvety embrace. It seems to detect hesperides, spices, aldehydes, florals (violet, rose, sambac jasmine, osmanthus?), patchouli, balsamic elements, vanilla and may be sandalwood, anyway I suppose the performer Nathalie Gracia-Cetto is surely "filled with" classic french tradition but at same time witting about secrets of modern neo-classic perfumery represented by creations a la Chanel Mademoiselle Coco but also Thierry Mugler Angel, Lumiere Noir Femme and further (minimalistic musky complexity). Actually, depite its classic background it is undeniable Love Shot is a modern chypre with a musky super smooth (and cleaner) final twist (a la Kurkdjian) that is glamour-chic, clean and fresh all at once. Love Shot combines gracefully a traditional spicy/woody/vegetal chypre tradition with fresh muskiness, colourful fruitiness (a well calibrated red-berrish presence) and fluidy spiciness, overall enveloped by a silky-chic modern musky/leathery touch. Yes, should probably be appropriate to say "minimalistic but not simplistic". The outcome is like a new age Ysl Paris, something surely "cleaner" but yet balanced, structured, hyper parisian, spacious and elegant. A great neo-classic for a modern "power-lady" projected towards future but even aware about that insuperable french tradition that is the holy repertory of the elegance's history.
30th April, 2016 (last edited: 02nd May, 2016)
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Noontide Petals by Tauer

A strongly aldehydic bergamot refreshes my nostrils with a summery opening vibe - not uncreative and also pleasant! Soon it is softened by floral impressions in the drydown, with the ylang-ylang dominant on my skin, supported by a more discrete tuberose. It is never really a sweet composition on my skin.

The base is clearly a turn into the woodsy territory, but the wood is rather nonspecific except from occasionally a synthetic sandal arising, with whiffs of a tame and somewhat pale sandalwood shining through here and there. A bit of vanilla and a good helping of styrax characterise the final stretch.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin, although it is performing less well after the first half.

An agreeable summer scent, with a nice concept but not rivetingly exciting and a bit uninspiring in the second half. 3/5.
30th April, 2016

Tola Pure Oil: Bond No. 9 Perfume by Bond No. 9

I have had an spiritual connection with Bond no 9 since I became introduced to the House about 8 years ago; the fragrances had a magical attraction and the clear glass bottles did enchant me.

I became a lover of the classic collection; the compositions were so well done that I would only wear fragrances from this house for years. My lovely Harrods SA (Miss J) enhanced this wonderful experience...

Signature became one of my all time favourites; when the Tola range arrived I fell in love again with Bond...

This Tola has moisturising oil with the essence of Bond no 9 signature fragrance: rose, musk & oud. The result is fruity but ever so uplifting...

Ideal for anointing after a shave without the sting of alcohol.

I am in Love again...

Excellent Longevity

Thumbs up!
30th April, 2016

Paradise for Men by Alfred Sung

Do you know what really ruins most aquatic fragrances? There is a common theme which apparently can't be avoided in order to keep the 'fresh' aesthetic alive; most aquatic scents have too much cardamom and very flimsy base notes.
The very essence of the genre is in the impossibly fresh top notes (which never last). Modern men's fragrances have overwhelmingly avoided the early 90's floral approach to mid range after many failed attempts, and likely because there is a huge American bias in our mindset which states "flowers=women." The bases of these then fresh-but-not-floral creations resort to clouded or screechy synthetic woody bases which do absolutely nothing to support the rest of the development. This means the fragrance is a burst of money-grabbing top notes followed by a precipitate nothingness, a vacuous anti-fragrance borne of the wanting for the opening to last forever (as it is the only selling point) and an immediate need to bail the water out of the boat as the vessel quickly sinks.
Paradise smells as lovely as many dozen fragrances just like it, but only for half an hour. After that it is the same forgettable, sinking ship that most aquatics bring to mind.
If I smelled this on a passerby I couldn't tell you with any degree of certainty what it was.
30th April, 2016
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Dirty English by Juicy Couture

Not bad but not good either just bleh. It shouldn't offend anyone so it is good for weekend wear or the office. No aspect of this juice is offensive to my nose but nothing about it makes me want to keep smelling it either.
29th April, 2016

Chess by Yves de Sistelle

The ginger and spice notes barely reach a register above a smooth, slightly powdery amber-guaiac and supple suede accord. The effect is quite comforting, actually, even if mild and rather unidimensional. No gambits, no sharp attacks -- this one is a positional Queen's Gambit Declined where a drawn position is quickly reached on the board. But because this outcome is the result of proper, blunder-free (even if somewhat unambitious) play, my neutral rating tilts slightly upwards.
29th April, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Rose Flash by Tauerville

Indeed a rose mono-floral composition, but not boring: the rose is brightish, with a distinct fruity component initially, but soon a greeninsh-herbaceous undertone is evident. Later rich rose blossom dominates, and towards the end woody impressions come and go. All these permutations keep it interesting.

The sillage is moderate, the projection excellent and the longevity an impressive twelve hours on my skin.

A spring scent galore for the rise lover. 3.25/5.
29th April, 2016

East India by Beaufort London

This is real bold spices with a peppery piquant prickliness layered upon black tea and whiskey filtered tobacco. Lots of character is present in East India and thankfully these spices avoid the downfall of a sweet vanilla ending. Thank you for sparing us that. I can not imagine wearing this in warm weather. But, there is a ton of character in here with a smoldering tarry dark glow that will warm the darkest night. I would rate it 3.5, maybe 4 of 5 gold stars for this fine creation from the Beaufort London perfumery lab.
28th April, 2016

1805 by Beaufort London

1805 is a salt water brined, old leather blend stained with hints of gun powder, tobacco and balsam woods. All in all a very pleasant masculine outdoorsy leather scent. There are a couple of things that throw people off about this fragrance. The first is a marketing description which describes the scent as a sea battle which ends in gunpowder blasts and blood stained seas, bits of old ships broken up etc. - all BS of course. Just disregard all this since it doesn't smell like that, but there is enough there to influence how you read the scent when first applying it. Disregard the attempt to ruin the fragrance by its art direction. Second problem is poor bottling practice - early bottles, the one I received for example, was released before the oils were fully blended or emulsified. It smelled raw, disjointed and kind of awful - for the first few months. I had to let my bottle rest for a few months to allow the ingredients to meld and the fragrance improved dramatically with the aging. I would give it a 4 of 5 stars, however the potential for it to be rated much lower is present due to the reasons mentioned above. Test carefully before jumping in on this one.
28th April, 2016

Musiqa Oud by Nishane

A well rounded, rich, warm expanding slightly animalic oud with a natural deer musk aspect. This fragrance has a similar warm sweet musk you find in Muscs Koublai Khan but there is an additional complexity from the oud and woods base. Don't know where the animalic floral musk tone comes from, but it is there. Rather than smelling like an oud oil it has the character of a mukhallat oil blend of jasmine animalics, or possibly musk gazelle with oud, safran leather and gaiac wood. The overall impression is very bold highly projecting oud that is quite a positive charge with its bold oud and sweet musk aspect. I rate it 3 of 5 stars, downgrading it only on personal compatibility with this profile. The fragrance is bold, lasts well and is artistically assembled. But, this is not my thing at all as it is just too potent for my taste.
28th April, 2016

Electric Wood by Room 1015

Tested from a 5ml sample.
Not sure what to say about this one. I love the smell of wood, especially when it's crisp, clean, cold and dry, when it actually smells of real wood. For me this fragrance is dominated by an oddly sweet, musky, warm aspect (I guess from the listed notes the ambroxan, which I've never smelled in pure form, so I'm guessing). I even thought leather at first. It kind of smells of a "thing", not a person, animal or flower or tree or anything natural in any way. When I was a child my parents had an old record player and the smell when you opened the lid reminds me of this oddly enough. For me this drowns out the wood, which only shines through beautifully in glimpses. Definitely goes powdery after a while too, which gives that feminine make-up kind of feeling that I'm not overly keen on smelling on my own skin. I'm going to pass on this for now. I've got enough of the sample left to come back to it another time when I might feel differently.
April 2016.
28th April, 2016

Polo Supreme Oud by Ralph Lauren

Wow! This is my third experience wearing RL Supreme Oud and it is great IMHO. With my limited experience with the Oud note I do know that some can come off smelling ummm "different". M7 Oud Absolu (which is a top five in my collection) this is not. This doesn't have the "cola vibe" that M7OA does. It is good with great longevity (7 to 8 hours) and projection is average to me (3 hours). Now that the price has started to come down (at least online) people looking for a nice Oud scent that won't offend need to look no further. Enjoy!
28th April, 2016

1740 Marquis de Sade by Histoires de Parfums

I like this fairly well. It smells like a sweet tobacco perfume, but then I do not see tobacco listed; so maybe I am smelling the birch, leather, and vanilla.
28th April, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Vanilla Flash by Tauerville

Yes, yummy vanilla galore, sweet but not sticky or cloying m, medium heavy, rich, intensive, a touch creamy and with elements of natural goodness - veering into the realm of the gourmand.

There is enough variation to prevent boredom, with at times a floral undertone, and towards the end a touch of a smooth and fairly bright patchouli. He opportunity to play out a harsher and crispier patchouli against the vanilla sweetness could have been grasped here by other perfumers, but Tauer opted for a more tone-in-tone interplay of the patchouli and the clearly dominant vanilla - a valid approach. The rather perfunctory tobacco sidekick, however, is nothing to write home about.

The performance is impressive, with moderate sillage, excellent projection and a superb fourteen hours of longevity on my skin.

A well-balanced but rich wintery vanilla delight, maybe a tad linear and not particularly nuanced, but made of high-quality ingredients and well blended. 3.25/5.
28th April, 2016

Cuir 28 by Le Labo

Cuir 28 is a fine enough fragrance, and it’s, without a doubt, a leather-forward scent. But, at the price point Le Labo’s playing in, “fine enough” doesn’t cut it.

I don’t find this one to be all that refined. The birch tar/smoke aspect overwhelms at the opening, and it seems at odds with the rest of the composition throughout. On paper, they make sense together, but, in practice, they seem to maintain a tense relationship with each other, never quite settling into any sense of cohesion.

The effect doesn’t ruin the fragrance, by any means, and in some ways it seems quite fitting for a Le Labo scent to behave in this way. It’s something that simultaneously amps up a sense of more-than-adequate sillage, and it hearkens back to Le Labo’s all-natural bent and individual approach to order fulfillment.

Still, while it may function as something of a calling card for the house of Le Labo, it does so at substantial cost to overall smoothness and sense of refinement. And that’s not something I’m willing to spend $290 on.

But, the most shocking thing about Cuir 28, especially after experiencing that almost assaultive opening that seems to suggest this scent will last on you for a week, is it’s awful longevity.

I applied a good amount of C28 just about 3 hours ago, and all that remains is a slight/powdery skin scent. So, while this beast might snarl when first approached, it also whimpers away with its tail between its legs far too soon. I feel like a broken record here, but I find that unacceptable at this price point.

If Cuir 28 cost a fraction of it’s going rate, I would consider giving it a neutral rating. But, I expect near-perfection at this price point, and Cuir 28 is resoundingly imperfect, earning it a thumbs down.
28th April, 2016

Venenum Kiss by Ex Nihilo

Don't be scared guys since this beastly kiss is anything but a shy caress up there over the frothy clouds of dreamy heaven. Ex Nihilo Venenum Kiss is basically a "by now" conventional rose/saffron/woods based accord but while this "mainstrean" chord tends recently (in many contemporary releases) to be "around" mastered by massively synth agarwood's resins (sometimes supported by frankincense or animalics) in here it projects its daintiness in a softer and drier way. Many recent "rose/oudh/saffron experiments" from Dueto (City Oud), Onyrico (Enygma), Avery (Y), Tiziana Terenzi (Gold Rose Oudh), Xerjoff etc jump in my "crooked" mind but Venenum Kiss (despite its misleading kind of vampiric name) seems a softer, romantic and kind of less visceral experiment. There is an almost semi-gourmand (or better balmy-smooth with nutty-honeyed shades) suaveness all around while structure and evolution are frankly poor in performance. There is finally a spicy orangy/vanillic, rosey, fruity (apricot-nuanced) and creamy-woody (creamy sandalwood) smooth "olfactory basement" which seems anyway averagely dry, simil-chocolately and with hints of aromatic freshness (honestly my nose is unable to pick up any artemisia). A beautiful cloudy scent finally vanillic, mildly resinous (styrax) and almost creamy. Not my genre but a nice piece of soapy aromatic delicacy.
27th April, 2016 (last edited: 28th April, 2016)

Paul Smith for Men by Paul Smith

I have had a bottle of this scent for over 12 years and find it to be a great spring / summer scent. Not to strong but I do find it does last five to six hours on me in the summer. Fresh, clean citrus with some brisk vetiver in the dry down. Considering the price online this is a complete winner. Enjoy!
27th April, 2016

Polo Red Intense by Ralph Lauren

A solid thumbs up. I find it similar to Boss Bottled in the sweetness/gourmand vibe. The scent is well constructed. Gives a solid four hours of projection and lasts close to six hours on me with two sprays. It isn't the end all be all but it is good. Worthy of adding it to your collection if you don't mind some sweetness. Enjoy!
27th April, 2016

Skulls & Roses for Him by Ed Hardy [Christian Audigier]

This is definitely in the same genre of fragrance as Fierce but I am not willing to write it off as a "me too" scent. Skulls and Roses for Men has a slight island breeze pina collada vibe but this dies out quickly in favor of a generic dry, light fresh musk scent. The cardamom and moss adds an exotic dry tone that differentiates this from Fierce or Bleu but also keeps it as more of a background or context scent. The base is dry light musk - no powder. This scent is great for a hardly noticeable background fresh and shiny glow that will not grab attention or be offensive. This would be okay for an outdoor working scent or a workout fragrance - it is light, clean enough to pull that off. Yes it does lack some individuality but it is a great, hate to use the word but "fresh" scent that works fine as a cheap body spray or deodorant alternative. Ed Hardy offer this in a deodorant style dry body spray version at the grocery and it us good in that purpose.
27th April, 2016

Loewe Pour Homme Sport by Loewe

Starts with sharp citrus and a healthy dose of pepper on my skin, soon followed by a dry cedar note that is quite nicely done. After about a half hour, the spiciness is substituted by aquatic accord while the citrus remains present. The watery notes are accompanied in the background by aromatic herbs and the cedarwood. The projection starts moderate and is dropping to skin level within 2 hours. After 5 hours all that remains is a soft aromatic skin scent that doesn't say much. The overall feel is pleasant, especially the first hours; it's the kind that will not offend anyone but will not wake any excitement either as it is pretty safe, generic and synthetic mostly in the drydown, the traditional "sport" cologne.
27th April, 2016

Kenzo Homme Night by Kenzo

I fell in love with this fragrance as soon as I sprayed it on a blotter ! And fell even more in love with it when I put it on my skin. As a woman, I like to wear masculine fragrance (even though I don't believe in gender in fragrance) and this one is the best masculine perfume I discovered last year. I really like Kenzo perfumes, for men and women, and this one is my fav on the brand so far :)And the sillage is pretty good.
27th April, 2016
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