Fragrance Reviews from September 2009

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    Diamondflame's avatar

    Singapore Singapore

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    Daim Blond by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Leather is one of the hardest-to-nail accords, and even harder to appreciate imo. Preconceived ideas about what each leather type should smell like often interfere with the process of appreciating leather-inspired scents. That's why someone who is visualising a biker's leather jacket and expecting to smell its scent is likely to have a tough time appreciating a scent more reminiscent of other types of leather. Similarly if you sample DAIM BLOND expecting a distinct suede or leather accord, you'd be in for a disappointment. But as I understand it, this was never meant to be a leather scent per se. It was meant to impart to its wearer a sense of luxury with its velvety smooth yet luxurious take on fine leather, very much along the lines of Heeley's Cuir Pleine Fleur or Chanel's Cuir de Russie. And if you could somehow appreciate this idea I'm pretty sure Daim Blond would fit you like a glove.

    27 September, 2009

    Diamondflame's avatar

    Singapore Singapore

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    Cuir Pleine Fleur / Fine Leather by Heeley

    Lets face it, nobody wants their skin to smell of leather. Tell me of someone who does and I'll show you a liar. What people really want is a fragrance that evokes pleasant memories associated with the use of leather. For example, the smell of leather equipment as you gear up for a round of polo with your fraternity brothers, or perhaps the feel of luxury as you recline comfortably on a chaise lounge of velvety pale leather. And that's what Heeley's CUIR PLEINE FLEUR is to me - a scent reminiscent of luxurious, fine leather with floral notes of mimosa, hawthorn blossom and violet leaf bringing a soft powdery and somewhat sensual 'Yin' into harmony with the harsher, more masculine 'Yang' as represented by the triumvirate of vetiver, birch and castoreum. In one word? FABULOUS.

    27 September, 2009

    hagertygal's avatar



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    Joop! Femme by Joop!

    WOW!!! I came back to this fragrance recently after remembering I used to wear it years and years ago in college. Now I cannot get enough, and wonder why I ever stopped wearing it. It is soooo long lasting. I spray it in the morning around 9am before work, and can still smell it on my clothing and skin at 10pm when I come home. My clothing smells for days!
    What a treat Joop is. It is sweet and woodsy at the same time, and oh so heavenly!
    I think Joop is way under rated. Rarely do I ever recall seeing ads for it, and it is so darn cheap nowadays, I got a 3.4 ounce bottle for only 27 bucks at an online retailer. I get more compliments on Joop than any other scent I have ever worn. People ask what I am wearing, and ask if it is something new. They are shocked when I tell them it has been around for over 20 years.
    This is by far the yummiest scent I have ever smelled. I think a Joop revival is in order! Start advertising again, and I sure hope they never decide to discontinue this fragrance. I have 15 bottles stored away, so I think I am safe for the next seven or so years. It is now the only scent I will wear, and nothing compares to it!

    27 September, 2009

    heynow's avatar

    United States United States

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    Private Collection Jasmine White Moss by Estée Lauder

    I first whiffed Jasmine White Moss when it first came out and wasn't that into it, so I put my sample away and sorta forgot about it. I just dug it out the other day and I'm glad I did! Wow! Not sure why I didn't like this the first time I sampled it, but it goes to show that you can *never* dismiss a fragrance after a single sampling. If I dismissed scents after an intial bad-impression I would have so many of my favorites... you just can't judge something the first time you try it.

    To really understand JWM you need to be familiar with some of the vintage Estee Lauder fragrance on which JWM is obviously paying hommage to. Private Collection, White Linen, Aliage, and Azuree are vintage Lauder chypres and I detect hints of all of them in JWM. In classic 60s/70s chypre fashion there are restrained citrus notes, subtle white florals, a slug of galbanum, and a subtle mossy/woody background. I love oakmoss and mourn its disappearance from modern perfumery, so for me to appreciate whatever is creating the mossy notes is a big statement. This is pretty much the only modern chypre that actually smells like a chypre - in fact I'd swear there's real oakmoss in here. Each one of the classic Lauder chypres I mentioned has one unique note or accord that distinguishes it (i.e. Aliage's peach, Azuree's leather, etc.). Lauder continues this tradition with the gorgeous jasmine note that overlays the floral chypre structure. The jasmine note is rich, sweet and downright beauitiful, and the mossy/woody background balances the jasmine perfectly.

    In response to Asha's excellent review, I absolutely see the similarity with Chanel Cristalle EdT and would go so far as to say that JWM is a sweeter, modern version of Cristalle. If you're either not a fan of, or not familiar with, classic floral chypres then you're likely not going to either understand, appreciate, or enjoy Jasmine White Moss. This will likely only appeal to more sophisticated and experienced noses. It's most definitely wearable by guys but would be beautifully feminine on a lady. I'm going to explore buying myself a bottle.

    JWM is a HUGE success - as a modern chypre and as a fragrance in general.

    27 September, 2009

    Jackinbox's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Euphoria Men by Calvin Klein


    My nose is not trained enough to pick every little scent in a cologne but I'm going to say what I think of it nonetheless. I don't want to smell like a lollipop not matter what it might evoke in a women. I cannot stand it. It's way too sweet and in a unpleasant way.

    27 September, 2009

    Jackinbox's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Only The Brave by Diesel

    My untrained nose smell a generic scent, a smell you could find in any cheap aftershave, I would even say Acqua Velva. It's nice and I wouldn't mind wearing it but it's not original enough. Since I have a sample I might wear it a few times.

    27 September, 2009

    starlit's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Quiddity - Dark Fire by Chipie

    I used to LOVE this when I was younger, I so wish it was still out there to buy.

    27 September, 2009

    Tirreni's avatar

    Wales Wales

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    Agent Provocateur by Agent Provocateur

    Hmmm...as a rose-lover all I can say is 'maybe it's my chemistry', because it smelt awful on me! It was like I'd piled on cheap old ladies' talc and perfume, and smelt of wee on me! Not good. On the plus-side I've given 2 stars for the bottle design which is tactile, smooth, sensual, beautifully coloured, and a true design classic :)

    27 September, 2009

    Tirreni's avatar

    Wales Wales

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    Alyssa Ashley Vanilla by Alyssa Ashley

    A beautiful true vanilla...they used to stock it in Boots when I was a teenager but I haven't seen it for years now which is a shame. Now I've moved on to Compoir Sud Pacifique's Vanilles, but I can't find them in the UK either!!

    27 September, 2009

    Tirreni's avatar

    Wales Wales

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    Anaïs Anaïs by Cacharel

    Like many others this was one of the first perfumes I ever owned as a pre-teen! I love it just for the nostalgic value but even though as a smell I think it's still very pretty, as a woman's perfume it just smells cheap.

    27 September, 2009

    Tirreni's avatar

    Wales Wales

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    Vanille Amande by Comptoir Sud Pacifique

    Pure Amaretto...reminds me of my family who live on the Amalfi Coast! Just wish I could find a stockist in the UK

    27 September, 2009

    Tirreni's avatar

    Wales Wales

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    Sicily by Dolce & Gabbana

    This is my favourite summer scent...it instantly transports me back to summers spent with my family who live on the Amalfi Coast. On me it opens with a fizzy, pleasantly zingy 'Champagne'-type lemon & orange scent, which soon softens to soft-florals, bergamot, sun-ripened Italian citrus, and smells like a day on a southern-Italian beach with the olive and lemon groves around......bliss!

    27 September, 2009

    Tirreni's avatar

    Wales Wales

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    My Melody Dreams by Muelhens

    A floral-chypre the scent of which I've never smelt before or never will do again. Hints of tuberose, violet, musk, peach, violet leaf and sandalwood. I LOVED this scent as a teenager in the 80's...I was given a bottle when on a school exchange in Germany but have never found it here in the UK and now it's discontinued! I've still got a half bottle left, and although I don't wear it I keep it just because I adore the smell (and I've also seen bottles of it going for a fortune on auction sites, so you never know)!

    I just wish they'd bring this scent back :)

    27 September, 2009

    Tirreni's avatar

    Wales Wales

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    Stella by Stella McCartney

    A feminine, modern take on a rose scent. Didn't have much staying power on me though and I found it a little too 'fresh' scented and white-rose like for me, but that's just personal preference. A 'dainty' scent nice for in the summer, but personally I like my perfumes a little headier and heavier.

    27 September, 2009

    Tirreni's avatar

    Wales Wales

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    Rive Gauche by Yves Saint Laurent

    I absolutely love this gem of a scent...it's a true unique classic. I fell in love with it as one of my aunts has always worn it as her signature scent since I was born. However when I've tried it on me it just does NOT smell the same...it's actually awful on my skin - like the smell of paracetemols or something! I've never reacted that way to any other scent which is strange. Even though I love the smell from the bottle it's for that reason I'm giving it a neutral thumb.

    27 September, 2009

    Tirreni's avatar

    Wales Wales

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    Paris by Yves Saint Laurent

    I bought this years ago in my late-teens as I've always loved nostalgic, heady perfumes and especially rose and violet so I thought this would be completely 'me'. How wrong I was! It's heady to the point of being overbearing just with one squirt, stays put all day (not good if you don't want it to!), smelt of old grannies and cheap talc, the rose accord didn't come through on me, just an overpoweringly-strong smell of violets. Not for me I'm afraid!

    27 September, 2009

    Tirreni's avatar

    Wales Wales

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    Citron Citron by Miller Harris

    I usually find citrus scents nauseating and migraine-inducing, however I smelt this on a male friend of mine and thought it was gorgeous! Unfortunately though it turns out my chemistry must be very different as it smelt like a completely different scent on me and had no staying power at all. For me D&G's Sicily works a LOT better, and has a much less weighty price tag too! I've given it 4 stars though as it doesn smell divine on my male friend.

    27 September, 2009

    Tirreni's avatar

    Wales Wales

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    Anglomania by Vivienne Westwood

    I bought this online on the basis that it's formulated with all my favourite scents - nutmeg, vanilla, rose otto, violet and cardamon. I wish I hadn't have bothered as I really disliked it. It smelt cheap, chemical-like, had really low staying power on me, and reminded me of old lady soap. A real let-down!

    27 September, 2009

    Tirreni's avatar

    Wales Wales

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    Vanille Cannelle by Comptoir Sud Pacifique

    My favourite winter fragrance! Lovely, soft, full vanilla and rounded, non-bitter cinnamon...yum! I only wish I could find a stockist here in the UK as my bottle's nearly finished!

    27 September, 2009

    Zut's avatar



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    Fleurs de Rocaille by Caron

    Fleurs de rocaille is one of my all-time favourite fragrances. Of course it is a bit outdated but it is most certainly part of its charm as far as I am concerned. My mother who was a very refined and elegant woman used to wear it when I was a kid in the early 60's and I loved it. I am sorry Fleurs de rocaille is not very popular nowadays. Classic perfumes may not attract the younger generations but they still deserve to be kept on the market for those of us who still appreciate them.

    27 September, 2009 (Last Edited: 04 September, 2011)

    scentimus's avatar



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    Séxual pour Homme by Michel Germain

    Wow I can't believe that some finds this has light and not long lasting - ?

    My problem is that it has too much longevity and too much sillage to the point that it becomes very sweet and cloying. The scent reminds me of a rip off on Eternity and Jivago 24K with a sweet dash of Animale for men. The problem with Sexual like Eternity is that wears become very immune to the scent and get this crazy idea this it not on their skin any more so they put more and more - and poor people around get a HEADACHE!

    I have to give it a thumbs up for it longevity - but be careful with the sprays!

    28 September, 2009

    evinick's avatar

    Greece Greece

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    Oyédo by Diptyque

    One thing is sure. It’s not another boring hesperidic scent. Uplifting, opening, with a cocktail of citrus (lemon, orange, mandarin, grapefruit) but not the kind of citrus, scents usually start with. It’s sweet, tart and fruity but overall quite synthetic. Reminds me of lemon-orange candy drops, or lifesavers as others already said.Then comes the thyme note which is very clear, but not really herbal and green thanks to the citrus. The base is more on the exotic side, no woods , just thyme, orange and maybe some lemongrass but still soft and pleasant . Unisex but more feminine, definitely a daywear scent with good longevity. Fresh and joyful, however it fails to please all citrus scent lovers.

    28 September, 2009

    odysseusm's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    Rose 31 by Le Labo

    Notes: rose, cumin, olibanum (frankincense), cedar, amber, Gaïac wood (champaca), cistus (labdanum), “animal note.”
    I like this scent, but I feel it could be more. It is advertised as a rose scent for men – and yet the rose note on me is pretty meager. What dominates is cumin and cedar. Thus, I find this to be a interestingly dry, slightly sweaty, woody scent. The opening is excellent, with dry resinous frankincense notes. But these quickly get lost in the cumin (sweat) and cedar (pencil shavings) notes. These are controlled and so not obnoxious, but they are definitely the focal-point. Somewhere in all of this are hints of rose, but they never successfully surface.
    Something like Czech and Speake No. 88 does the male rose presentation more successfully, in my opinion. I like woody scents, and this is well done in that type. But since the name is rose, it should have more rose!

    28 September, 2009

    Stereotomy's avatar

    Netherlands Netherlands

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    Thé Vert au Jasmin / Green Tea with Jasmine by L'Occitane

    I get two things from this: clear refreshing tea and fresh jasmin without the indolic part. Definitely unisex, and a summer staple.

    Longevity is remarkable, sillage is definitely there.

    28 September, 2009 (Last Edited: 20th November, 2009)

    Morgaine's avatar



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    Essence by Narciso Rodriguez

    Laundry soap coupled with an unpleasantly nose-tickling note. Tried it twice to make sure I wasn't having an off day, but no: this is easily the worst out of all Rodriguez creations - though I should mention I get along with none of them. If only NR's scents lived up to their gorgeous packaging.

    28 September, 2009

    jenson's avatar

    India India

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    Patchouli Patch by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Patchouli Patch is a delight to wear and one of the classiest Patch dominant scents i have come across. suprisignly werable and most importantly, enjoyable experience all the way.
    Opens with a soft and lovely accord of freshly ploughed mud with hints of floral elements adding to a bit of skank and sweetness. This scent stays linear and gets more soft and powdery as we approach mid accords. mid to basenotes has the divine combination of vanilla, incense and patchouli. this is essentially a muddy & powdery patch based scent sweetened to perfection by floral and Vanilla. a must have for any patch lover.

    28 September, 2009

    jenson's avatar

    India India

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    Intrigant Patchouli 08 by Parfumerie Generale

    Gritty & "Dry" accord of patchouli weaves around you in it's opening notes with barely any hint of sweetness. Notes so gritty, it feels as if one were inside a tobacco shop; those which sells tobacco for pipe and chewing purpose..? the openin accord is as pronouced as standing inside one. as with all PG's it takes an hour or so to resolve it's differences and spread evenly with layers of notes gleaming from underneath.
    By Mid notes - IP reveals a very musty, almost animalic note under the spiced up powdery accord of patchouli. Patch is pretty much softened by now and to an extent one can easily seek some comfort in the vanillic ambery sweetness. the sharp contrast of notes between being gritty & Raw in it's opening to sweet init's drydown is very typical of PG. i guess he really likes his scents to progress in stages, stages which are visible and are often in sharp contrasts to it's preceding accords.

    28 September, 2009

    SirSlarty's avatar

    United States United States

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    Henry Cotton's in Blue by Henry Cotton's

    A delightful little aromatic spicy fougere much in the same vein as the 80's powerhouses. This is much more subdued and wonderful for those who like the lighter scents. I do like those spicy fourgere but some are just to harsh but are still quit amazingly good. In Blue gives those who need a softer side of the 80's. The current formulation is what was tested,

    28 September, 2009

    SirSlarty's avatar

    United States United States

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    Henry Cotton's in Green by Henry Cotton's

    A lovely mossy patchouli scent. Smokey and woody but very light and enjoyable. Opening is appropriately green with herbs and a touch of leaves. I could hardly get any of the middle at all. The drydown, like I said, is mossy and the patchouli is woody. Comfortable and casual.

    28 September, 2009

    SirSlarty's avatar

    United States United States

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    Borneo 1834 by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    A patchouli and spices based scent. The cocoa (powdery chocolate) really puts me off in this one and is not really chocolate. More like thick syrupy honey. So thick you'd wonder what kind of flowers the bees are pollinating. This is more like B*Men rather than A*Men. Absolutely a must sample first because he opening is really, really chokingly bad but the drydown is ok. Not a fan of this one.

    28 September, 2009

    Showing 1141 to 1170 of 1282.