Fragrance Reviews from October 2010

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    LiveJazz's avatar

    United States United States

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    Bulgari Man by Bulgari

    This is a scent that just doesn't work on me, and I think this is due to a certain sweetish green-amber basenote chemical...a sharply synthetic green amber. Narciso Rodriguez for Him EDT is also ruined by an accord like this, though it is much, much worse there than it is in Bulgari Man. Both scents share a violet leaf note, and violet leaf may accentuate the issue, but I don't think the violet itself is the problem, as there are other violet-heavy compositions I like. I enjoy the dry and bright floral-green topnotes, with just the right amount of pleasing sweet nuances, but Man went downhill from there, and now I kind of want to scrub the remaining stale mess off.

    14th October, 2010

    tigrushka's avatar

    Finland Finland

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    L'Eau d'Ambre by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I like this amber scent very much. It's soft and light compared to many others and lacking the resinous burn characteristic of the stronger amber scents, but in the top note stage there is a wonderful chocolatey cigar box vibe. The drydown is smooth and sweet.

    14th October, 2010

    Andrewthecologneguy's avatar

    Nigeria Nigeria

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    Pure Nautica by Nautica

    Be ready to be dissapointed. Smells very basic and simple. Don't know what the notes are, but this is a spicy woody. Yes, yet another spicy woody synthetic jus, and not very good either. I really don't get it anymore with some of these frag houses. Why release junk that will attract 0.1% of the targeted audience? What happened to audacity and boldness? I am reluctant to give it a neutral, but I will, because it is simple to the point of delight...Nah! Thumbs down!

    14th October, 2010

    Swanky's avatar

    United States United States

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    Lapidus pour Homme by Ted Lapidus

    One spray to the chest and the panther was uncaged, hissing, running around the room and almost unrecognizably frenzied. This lasted for over an hour. I thought I might have to call Animal Services for a tranquilizer dart.

    Eventually this beast brought down its heart rate and I could see its form more clearly. The only fragrance that I even remotely think of when wearing this is JPG Fleur Du Male and only in the powdery floral commonality. Lapidus is a powerhouse without peer for sure and a very weird one at that. Those niche lovers who prefer the uniqueness and avant-garde possibilities in fragrance would do well to check this out. This is a love-or-hate scent, and for the first hour I can understand both sides of the aisle. Several hours in, though, and this turns into a masculine masterpiece.

    If you are tired of weak, thin and transparent designer fragrances and are searching for strip-the-chrome-from-a-trailer-hitch power and sillage, beat a quick path to Lapidus Pour Homme. Just don't leave the house for an hour and you'll be fine.

    14th October, 2010

    vintage*red's avatar

    United States United States

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    Lily & Spice by Penhaligon's

    I was certain that I would love this. I don't. The fragrance starts with a nice oriental lily note and ends with an unpleasant watery patchouli. Possibly a casualty of the the new regulations?

    14th October, 2010

    msleslie's avatar

    Australia Australia

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    Queen by Queen Latifah

    I read somewhere that the notes in this lovely fragrance were:
    Top: golden Tequila, bergamot, mandarin
    Midnotes: Baie rose, jasmine noir, cognac, coriander
    Basenotes: patchouli, sandalwood, vanilla absolute, tonka absolute, incense, and musk.

    What I smell is a complex mix of unidentifiable elements that overall come across as luscious, warm, sensual, joyful, confident and extravertish. It can momentarily recall to mind Nirmala, Angel, Badgley MIschka, or Lolita Lempicka - then not be close to any of them in the next breath. I am enjoying this one very much!

    14th October, 2010

    Promethea's avatar

    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Trouble by Boucheron

    Horrible. Agressive, green smelling oriental that, as it develops, creates the impression of strong aftershave attempting in vain to conceal BO. When will I learn not to snap up blind buys just because they're very cheap? More fool me.

    14th October, 2010

    Late-Hit's avatar

    United States United States

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    Spark for Women by Liz Claiborne

    Somewhat like Obsession, but a little brighter and more cheerful. A bit like Organza Indecence, but much less vanillic. The spice plays a minor role and the floral elements are very subtle. Overall, the feeling of Spark is warm and comforting.

    I am surprised that Spark has not been reviewed more (or loved more) because it really is a very nice fragrance. But then again, this style is a bit 'out of fashion' at the moment. It will be back again, I'm sure.

    14th October, 2010

    shamu1's avatar

    United States United States

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    Silver Black / Onyx by Azzaro

    Bucking all masculine fragrance trends existing since the 90s, Onyx is an aromatic fougere with real balls. This truly smells like a fragrance "Pour Homme". It also is a fitting tribute to Azzaro Pour Homme in this respect, even though it lacks the warmth of that classic. Onyx smells strong and hard, like solid steel, and it smells cold.

    Onyx is very dry, dark and aromatic, sharing a lot of traits with YSL Rive Gauche Pour Homme. It hits you with strong lavender and dark spices like pepper and cardamom right out of the gate. Aromatics like oakmoss, leather and patchouli add darkness to this scent.

    The drydown is my favorite stage. It is where you can smell how Onyx is a classical fougere at its core. The drydown is where you can smell coumarin and oakmoss providing a very dry, clean and powdery fougere base, which is reminiscent of the most classical fougere of all - G.F. Trumper's Wild Fern. Onyx really is a barbershop scent masquerading as a modern fragrance.

    Though this is not really a Powerhouse fragrance, power fans should have no hesitation in trying this one. It has excellent projection and is long lasting. Plus, there is nothing at all wimpy or androgynous at all about Onyx. It is a man among boys in the world of modern masculine fragrances.

    MY RATING: 8/10

    14th October, 2010

    Primrose's avatar

    United States United States

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    1740 Marquis de Sade by Histoires de Parfums

    I sampled 1740 Marquis de Sade and was expecting something on the lines of Secretions Magnifique, something designed to provoke a strong reaction. On the contrary, the 1740 was a complex and elegant scent. In that respect, the scent is inaptly named when compared to the biography of the real-life Marquis himself. No perversions, no lunacy, nothing fobidden, just a melange of moderate spices, with refined tobacco and leather notes. Some would be quick to say this is a formal and "gentlemanly scent," evoking the ambiance of an old gentlemen's club: brandy (yes, the top notes are boozy), tobacco from fine cigars, and leather from the unholstered chairs. You can envision a man in a tailored suit wearing this. 1740 is not one to buy on the top notes, as it takes the full wearing to discover the complexity. The whole dries down to a subtle patchouli and vanilla. For the woman wanting something unique, this is a "serious" scent for older women (or those with mature tastes!) devoid of the fruity/floral or aquatic notes that everyone seems to be wearing. Because not all may like this, you should sample this before purchasing, as the price per bottle in not inexpensive. In defence of the company, however, the $185 USD price is for 120ml or 4 oz.

    14th October, 2010

    Diorissimo's avatar

    United States United States

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    Jolie Madame by Pierre Balmain

    I wish I could try the vintage...only have the reformulated which, after a couple of hours, dries down to the astringency of cat pee. the first three hours are great, leather and violets, as promised but -- man! Gotta get home in time!

    14th October, 2010

    Diorissimo's avatar

    United States United States

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    Nuit de Tubéreuse by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I enjoy this one and, happily, don't get the astringency some wearers complain of. It stays a peppery, spicy tuberose without the overwhelming BWF punch. A beauty!

    14th October, 2010

    Ahree's avatar

    United States United States

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    Bulgari pour Homme by Bulgari

    Quality juice that oozes discretion and subtlety. A real skin scent for those that don't want to make waves or offend officemates or housemates. Citrus top notes give way to a tea and musk scent with very, very mild sillage and good longevity. Classic.

    14th October, 2010

    Ahree's avatar

    United States United States

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    Bulgari pour Homme Extreme by Bulgari

    Just like the original Bulgari Pour Homme, but more so. Longer and louder citrus opening and more intense and pungent tea-flavored, musky drydown. Quite an elegant and well behaved skin scent. Fairly long lasting, but wears close to the skin -- and that's the point.

    14th October, 2010

    Ahree's avatar

    United States United States

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    Dunhill Edition by Dunhill

    My current favorite. A very civilized, long lasting fougere that doesn't leave a vapor trail or clear a room -- at least on me. Starts with cloves, cinnamon then settles into a politely boozy and mild tobacco accord. I've come to view (smell?) this as Aramis Havana's reserved, subtler and much more wearable nephew. Shame this has gotten hard to find, but well worth it.

    14th October, 2010

    Ahree's avatar

    United States United States

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    Eau d'Hermès by Hermès

    If you manage stick around after its opening, you'll probably be glad you did. Personally, I can't see myself buying this, though, and here's why: The debut is redolent of morning breath, body odor and mothballs. But only for a few minutes that seems like hours. You are rewarded with a powdery and cumin-infused drydown that is actually fairly pleasant...but it's a lot to suffer through to get there. Try before you buy.

    14th October, 2010

    Ahree's avatar

    United States United States

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    Gendarme by Gendarme

    I used to work with someone who reeked of what I thought was Irish Spring soap. I always thought it was weird because she smelled of it all day -- as if she had just gotten out of the shower. It wasn't unpleasant, but it was strong and rather banal. When I sampled this, I realized that it must have been Gendarme or a close cousin. Gendarme is not a horrible scent, just pedestrian and linear. And for a supposedly inoffensive scent, it gets really annoying. Too bad it's long lasting.

    14th October, 2010

    Ahree's avatar

    United States United States

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    Havana by Aramis

    Hubba hubba! The very epitome of 80's powerhouse. A perfect scent to go clubbing in or relaxing around the house -- just don't venture into work wearing this baby. It's that potent. The opposite of the meek, watery clones so prevalent today. Opening blast is like a fougere's version of the Big Bang - dramatic, explosive, disorganized and foggy. Isolate yourself from society for about 20 minutes. Only then will you and fellow sniffers be rewarded with a rich, rummy, boozy, tobacco-y haze that gets progressively smoother. A good ride, but hold on for dear life, at least for the first hour. A real treat for enthusiasts and students of the genre.

    14th October, 2010

    Ahree's avatar

    United States United States

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    Helmut Lang Eau de Cologne by Helmut Lang

    Yup, this is Olde Time Barbershop done right. Manly in a refined, classic sense, but the furthest thing from the harsh smell that tends to be associated with hyper-masculine colognes. As other have noted, it's creamy and musky. Fairly linear progression - no surprises. Minimum sillage, decent longevity. Get it, even if it costs a few bucks, given its discontinued status.

    14th October, 2010

    Ahree's avatar

    United States United States

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    Geir by Geir Ness

    Laregly inoffensive, somewhat pleasant, andprobably hypoallergenic. Mildy sweet, fresh wintergreen and, if you don't want to be charitable, maybe a dash of Pepto Bismol (did I just ruin it for you? Sorry :>) Minimum sillage and mild-to-medium longevity. A quiet one, but mildly refreshing and quietly reassuring. Not exciting, but sometimes, that is what is called for.

    14th October, 2010

    Ahree's avatar

    United States United States

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    Cuba by Czech & Speake

    Egad. The earthiest and most indolent, fecal-redolent opening I've yet experienced in a frragrance. It does settle down into a nice tobacco and high end boozy accord, but honestly, I can't get past the debut with a straight face.

    14th October, 2010

    Ahree's avatar

    United States United States

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    Polo Black by Ralph Lauren

    What is with all the hate? It's not bad at all, and useful when you want to change your roster up a bit. Tremendous longevity and strong sillage that sort of sneaks up on you -- yet not intrusive into other peoples' personal space.

    14th October, 2010

    Ahree's avatar

    United States United States

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    Canali Men by Canali

    A refined scent that smells like success. Starts a little sweet (pineapple?) and then cools down to a consistent fruity leather. Now, I loved it when I first tried it, but there was something progressively cloying about the leather scent that now gives me a headache. Should be enjoyable for leather fetishists, though.

    14th October, 2010

    Ahree's avatar

    United States United States

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    Antidote by Viktor & Rolf

    Hmmm. I fell hard for this when I discovered it existed but have cooled on it in recent months. Certainly a departure from the brutal, dry harshness of some fragrances. A flower bomb in its own right, one might say. It's probably correct to conclude, as many have, that this suffers mildly from too much of a good thing -- a jumble of competing and complementary accords. Fortunately, it fades fast, but you'll miss it when it does. An interesting scent...just not at the top of my list.

    14th October, 2010

    Francop's avatar

    Spain Spain

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    Agua de Colonia Concentrada by Alvarez Gomez

    Fresh, zesty and refreshing scent from a traditional well established perfumery in central Madrid, Spain. The scent has lemon, rose and geranium notes.

    My grandfather used it on a daily basis for years so it brings wonderful memories; we would visit him in the morning running into his apartment looking for him; he would nearly always be having a shave sat next to a massive square white porcelain basin checking every inch of his face for the perfect trim...

    This scent is a classic if you were born in the 60`s as on those days there were not very many perfumes/scents in Spain; French scents from Paris were the only ones available...maybe General Franco had something to do with it...Paco Rabanne emigrated to Paris on those days...

    Huge perfume line in general...shower gel, body lotion, bath salts, hair conditioner, soaps...etc and very well priced with decent longevity

    Give it a go if you fancy a sniff of the Spanish civil war...1936-1939...

    Big thumbs up...!!!

    14th October, 2010

    Francop's avatar

    Spain Spain

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    Buzz by Roja Dove

    I had the opportunity of sampling "Buzz" a few days ago...

    The scent is a fresh and long lasting floral themed perfume with beautiful rose, jasmine and vanilla notes...feminine but very appealing to the male gender...am sure

    I surely recommend it to all basenoters...

    Well done Mr Roja Dove...Big Thumbs up...!!!

    14th October, 2010

    Adanvae's avatar



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    Dzing! by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Oh, oh, I'm anosmic to something in this. I can barely smell anything beyond a faint smell of dust and vanilla. What a shame for me---it sounds fascinating.

    14th October, 2010

    uxf's avatar



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    Beyond Paradise for Men by Estée Lauder

    There is obviously something bizarre going on with this fragrance, probably some synthetic aromachemical that is registering wildly different sensations in people's systems. I have rarely seen such divergence not just in opinions, from Turin's top 10 accolade to the thumbs-down plurality here, but also in basic olfactory descriptions. How could the same fragrance be, as reported by various people, sickeningly sweet, and like cucumbers, and barely smellable? This really disproves Turin's thesis that we don't smell differently, we only react to smells differently.

    As for myself, I don't get any fruit or sweetness. All I get is an eerie presence in the room, something powerful and perhaps unhealthy, that I can't quite locate or really smell. Like a petrochemical, or paint thinner, or cucumber that's just beyond my spectral range. Like hearing a dog-whistle. I've eaten jabuticabas and there's nothing that smells like jabuticabas here.

    Which reminds me: I'm always amused by "notes" and people's reverence for them. Clearly there's nothing fixed or scientific about them. There's no jabuticaba molecule, and who knows what "Eden's mist" is. These are either a perfumer's best effort at describing the composition, or some marketing person's exercise in creative writing. Perhaps Eden's mist is that eerie, fluorescent presence I sense (which I also sense in Pleasures for Men, by the way).

    Nevertheless, I'm giving it a neutral for being an interesting experience. Everyone should at least sniff this to see what they register.

    14th October, 2010

    bemebe's avatar



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    White Patchouli by Tom Ford

    I wanted to love this. It looked so good on paper. Sadly I didnt get much of the elements of patchouli I like, all I ended up with was a headache inducing scrubber. Morgaine in my opinion said it all really.

    14th October, 2010

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